How I Removed Half a Millimeter from a Linear Guide with a Scraper.

/ bazarko

[@rmcphearson1]

Nice work, thanks for sharing!Please do a video on sharpening your scraper blades!

[@mrblack61]

When rough scraping a surface into alignment you can 'step scrape'. For example, start at position T4 and scrape the whole width of the surface towards T3 for 200mm then stop, start again at T4 and scrape 400mm then stop, start again at T4 and scrape 600mm and stop etc etc. Doing this you cut most in the area where you want to remove the most material. It means less time printing and measuring and can be very quick when you get a feel for how much material you remove each pass. All the best mate. Cheers D

[@hasanzakeri8708]

Amazing! If I'm correct, you removed roughly 42ccs or 280gs of cast iron from the straight part alone! I hope you do a video on your carbide sharpening setup and ideas as well. And what a generous gift that Biax is!

[@gena_bazarko]

Exactly! At the end of the repair I will calculate, first of all for the viewers, how much cast iron was cut off. After all, I have all the measurement data. It is interesting. And BIAX is really a very valuable thing, I know that, especially since we do not have similar machines.

[@warrenjones744]

wow! hand scraping 1/2 mm is quite a work out. I find your technique of removing the high spots interesting and a perhaps good idea for such rough initial scraping. I will have to experiment with that. I have just found your channel and will look at your other videos with interest. I do some scraping and will soon be trying to learn the auto collimator. I will have a look at your videos on that subject very soon. Thank you for taking the time to film this work. I think you will find the Biax a welcome addition to your tools. Cheers from the USA

[@raymondvancourt1622]

Slava Ukraine, I have seen many videos on scraping but yours are by far the most comprehensive. I hear Ukraine is starting to make their own military equipment. That's great, I pray for your country and people everyday. Keep up the great work!

[@AABB-px8lc]

I hope nazi kill themselfes, as all support EU as in 1945. Слава КПСС.

[@mr.ranyhomemade2466]

Very nicely for his sharing

[@ConcentratorSupportLtd]

Good video, and good analysis. Now I know what I am in for when I attempt it.

[@somebodyelse6673]

That is sooooo much work! My hands would be wrecked by doing that 4 hours a day, I hope the Biax will work for you.

[@gutsngorrrr]

Wow, you have amazing friends, for sending you a Biax power scraper, I've always wanted one, but just can't afford one. But it will make doing all the scraping you do a real joy. I'm currently looking into making my own power scraper. Your work is amazing and to such high quality and precision.

[@mrblack61]

Great video my friend and well explained. Thanks for taking the time 👍

[@d099z]

You will progress much faster with power scraper now. Much less tiring as well. I had the pleasure of working with Soviet blades as well and did note them being much better at edge retention than Swedish blades

[@gena_bazarko]

I also want to test them in comparison, I need to buy such a blade on eBay and do tests. I also want to test them in comparison, I need to buy such a blade on eBay and do tests. In the meantime, I rely on your experience.

[@HuskyMachining]

Beautiful video and very informative! Thanks for sharing

[@lohikarhu734]

You're a very tough guy!

[@lohikarhu734]

Hallo, Gena; I was watching a video by a Japanese Precision CNC machine manufacturer, and they have many, many scraping operations, even as far as the base of the "tower"... I noticed that some of the people doing the scraping were "dancing", seemed funny, but they had a rounded end of the scraper handle, and had that against their hip, using the body to put the power into the heavy scraping... Looks like a good way to do the deep scraping, and they changed to the "normal" way for final scraping. They measure to 0.0001 mm.

[@gena_bazarko]

Hello! Please send me a link to this video.

[@lohikarhu734]

Here's one of them.. dancing 😀 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJ3XZGSOmb98qqM

[@lohikarhu734]

At about 12 seconds, you can see that the scrapers have a flat plate on the end that sits against the hip are kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIe0aKiOn72ffpofeature=shared

[@lohikarhu734]

gena_bazarko; These Japanese factories seem to take hand scraping very seriously...in one video, the presenter asked the company owner about how much time the finish scraping took, and he replied that the question was only about getting the required quality of the surface, not a question about time. Anyway, here's another link:

[@AndySomogyi]

Very nice work. I removed nearly a mm from my Chinese milling machine with hand scraper, but only over a distance of 300mm. I liked it better when you did the narration instead of the computer generated voice . Trust me, your English is better than many English speakers , and far better than my Ukrainian.

[@gena_bazarko]

If I do the voice-over myself, instead of two videos I will only have time to make one.

[@Michel-Uphoff]

@AndySomogyi Sorry I don't agree with that at all. Of course there is some "uncanniness" when hearing an AI voice, but it is very understandable especially for those who are not used to hearing English every day, and therefore have more trouble with all the dialects and bastardizations and such. For example, the automatic subtitles by KZbin also have that problem. It makes an incomprehensible mess of poorly pronounced or bastardized English and then a non-English speaker has little use for it. I applaud Genaddy for doing it his way!

[@ced3098]

Impressive energy ..for heavy defects I use a dremel , easy to remove 0.1 mm per cut , just need to ink ( trace ink blue and touching blue) not the full surface to visualise abrasive ''touching'' and that less boring than scrapping by hand

[@gena_bazarko]

Well, I also use a dremel if I need it for steel or hardened steel. But for cast iron it's easier for me to use a scraper cutter.

[@jonathan-alexandredavis5616]

Your videos are very informative Gennady !

[@gener-all5177]

Excellent, i like to know what kind of ink are you using and if you prepare it, how to do it. In other hand, the dimensions and sharpening of scrapers. Best regards from Venezuela

[@anthonyrivers8395]

OMG I can’t wait until you use your new tool😮(toy)😂 everything looks good and straight😊

[@car9167]

I scraped by milling table and removed 0.2mm and then another 0.1mm to make the dovetail parallel to the table surface. Took me a lot of time

[@SAILBOATJACARANDA]

Very cool stuff

[@hinz1]

0.5mm is more in angle grinder range than scraping. I'd get a tiny 60mm angle grinder for that from china and use it similar to step scraping. And check height often, with straight edge and paint.

[@gena_bazarko]

I'm a bit afraid to use a grinder, it cuts very quickly, but I may be wrong. I haven't tried it.

[@DgtalBreakz]

@@gena_bazarko Trust me, it is not too quick, Ive had to grind for hours and hours with a big 125mm x 6mm disk to flaten the initial stage of 3 surface plates 300x300mm in size prior to lapping and the initial peak to peak deviation was not higher than 2 mm. As long as you make sure you are constantly moving the disk and keep a very shallow angle of atack (I mean almost flat oposed to almost perpendicular to the grinded surface), the removal rate is not too high. Also, you could use a small inserts rotary tool (dremmel style) for the latter stages if you are afraid of making a mistake, because that is much more precise, but still, the same principle of constantly moving the tool applies.

[@paradiselost9946]

@@DgtalBreakz there were hand held "surface grinders" available at one point... possibly still are. but yeah... i would be pulling out the angle grinder and a fresh 6mm disc... on steel, and other "sticky" metals... its actually far easier to use a die grinder or similar anyway. scraper tends to chatter and not be very friendly at all...

[@ced3098]

Agree with you , I do the same

[@johngibson3837]

Super cool video thank you very much

[@flikflak24]

personally i would use a camera with a remote monitor on the auto colimater and move there mirror with a string angered as close to the bottom as possible to remove as much of my body effecting things as possible ( yes the camera will also output some heat into it but its way less and its constant and since its constant its also much easier to compensate for unlike when you go back and forth (first you have to compensate for the heat as you are there and then compensate for the lack of heat when your not there ). unlike mine that comes and go as i go back and forth between working and reading it. plus i dont have to spend time going back and for to read it but can just look up at a big screen )

[@gena_bazarko]

These are very correct ideas, amazingly precise, right down to the application of force to the mirror stand, but this is relevant at the very end of the work, when the fight is for a micron.

[@GoldenAgePuritan]

Do you say "elbow grease" in Ukraine? I do the "flat planing" technique also, though it feels like a bit of a cheat, but it does help very much. You are lucky to have that lip along the side of the way to keep you from scraping off the side.

[@dev-debug]

Scraping ways is an art that I lack the patience to do.

[@paradiselost9946]

nah. ways are easy. scraping assemblies for sqaure and parallelism, along with assembling and dismantling dozens of times... and then realising you stuffed up ten steps ago and have to back track to correct and do everything all over again but twice as much in the opposite direction...THATS tedious! still, after a while you get better at guesstimating and reduce the number of steps...

[@brucewilliams6292]

That looks like a great deal of work. Could this have been done by using Moglice or Turcite? Thank you for sharing your skills.

[@gena_bazarko]

These things are not needed here, I will restore all the geometry from cast iron.

[@wktodd]

Are the gutters machined? could you have used them as a roughing height reference for a grinder (e.g. something rolling along the gutter to control the grinder height)

[@gena_bazarko]

Hello! Unfortunately I don't understand your question, but I'll try to give an answer. The second line, namely the vi-like prism has already been repaired. It is now the "reference point".

[@mrblack61]

@@gena_bazarko I think what he means is using the raised sides of the flat surface as a guide for a small grinder to rough grind the flat way. This could save a lot of hand scraping and measurement time. It could work well if the raised sections were originally machined in the same set up as the flat surface.

[@lohikarhu734]

Sir; would it be feasible to use a "gentle" heating strip, or a "tunnel" with a fan blowing warm air, to make the section that sags expand a tiny bit, to force it to its "normal" shape... with a tiny bit of temperature sensing, the "corrective heat" could be reduced according to the external temperature? Just another crazy idea!

[@gena_bazarko]

There is no need for this in this case. The deflection is very small, the machine will heat up during operation. Tests of the accuracy of the workpiece will give the answer.

[@lohikarhu734]

Thanks Gena... just pushing around the edges...

[@mr.ranyhomemade2466]

Very good how can I find this scrap? Do you have a link

[@gena_bazarko]

I had a hard time finding these USSR tungsten carbide plates. No link. You can email me when they are available, I'll let you know.

[@lohikarhu734]

Would it reduce wear on the scraping blade if you used a cutting lubricant of some kind during this rough removal stage?

[@gena_bazarko]

I don't know that (.

[@ced3098]

iron is cut dry as that make mud with cutting oil and that generate a lot of trouble , carbide blade works fine without lubricant , but for steel scrapping lub is ok .

[@lohikarhu734]

@ced3098;.thx 4 comment. But maybe a lighter "lube" that is flushed from time to time? Great channel, great contributions in comments.

[@alexmay3533]

I used a piececof flat carbide blade and shaped the edge with a diamond sharpener. However the carbide blade lost it's sharpness very fast. What is the solution

[@gena_bazarko]

The diamond sharpener should be the finest grain. The grain size is from 6 to 10 microns. I use such a disk on an organic bond. And the silicon carbide should be of the highest quality.

[@alexmay3533]

@@gena_bazarko can you make a video of sharpening the blade and the disc? It will be amazing to watch

[@somebodyelse6673]

@@gena_bazarko - Silicon carbide? Does that mean the blades you are sharpening are not tungsten carbide?

[@gena_bazarko]

@@somebodyelse6673 Tungsten carbide plate. Made from the highest quality raw materials, using extra fine powder for sintering. Its name, if translated, is: Tungsten Carbide 6 Extra Fine. Hardness 91 percent of diamond hardness. It was made in the best times of the USSR, when they often made it with high quality. I barely sold one of these plates on eBay for $50. But I only have about 7 of them in stock, I won't sell any more.

[@lohikarhu734]

Do you need to worry about the "dip" that you see on the V guide interfering with your flatness measurement on the flat way?

[@gena_bazarko]

No, I just do it in a similar way to the prism.

[@GoldenAgePuritan]

If he's using the level to determine the height then it doesn't matter. It's just the relation from v way to flat way at that point.

[@user-up5xb3zp6b]

Слава Україні! Thank you very much for the film, about Hungary! I learned a lot from it. I wish you more beauty and goodness!

[@Serbokrat]

Yes your straight line scraping seems different from the "Moore pattern" usually seen in KZbin videos. There is a good video about that technique on the channel ROBRENZ, you might be aware of him since he does very similar work to you

[@xx-nl8gq]

Przydał by mi sie taki fachowiec. Ile taka praca kosztuję

[@normcameron2316]

I don't think scraping is much different in the West. As you demonstrate scrape and scrape like a demon until your hands are too sore, then do more the next day.

[@sambrose1]

I would love to apprentice under your watch for 5 or 6 years.

[@gena_bazarko]

I try to make videos so that my videos are educational, or provide the necessary information. Each video will be useful for the master. I provide the information that I was looking for or developed in practice, all this is necessary for work. This is real training.

[@sambrose1]

@gena_bazarko it really is and thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@petrshylcevich7806]

Вітаю, радий бачити що ви працюєте. Яка приблизно твердість поверхонь напрвляючих на вашу думку в даному верстаті?

[@gena_bazarko]

Здрастуйте! Чавун не гартований. Я не міряв, але поміряю щоб знати.

[@lohikarhu734]

Gena, here's another video from Japan showing these "dancing" scraping guys...the video shows how they use scraping everywhere in their machines: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2KuqYh5ecdsj7M

[@vvdvlas8397]

Непонятно, как работает измерительный инструмент.

[@gena_bazarko]

Ви подобная призма уже прямолинейная, контролировалась автоколлиматором. Сейчас, опираясь на ви подобную призму я пользуюсь уровнем 4,5 угловой секунды и таким образом понимаю, как и где шабрить плоскую направляющую. А видео об этом еще не опубликовано пока , но готовится.

[@rodfrey]

I believe most people in the west use Connelly's book "Machine Tool Reconditioning" as their guide. In this book, in the section for reconditioning a V-way/Flat guide like this, he recommends beginning with the flat way which is then used as the datum to scrape the V way parallel. Although your methods have been wonderfully ingenious, it seems it may have been simpler to begin with the flat way? I am sure you considered this, I am interested in your reasoning to start with the V-way.

[@gena_bazarko]

Hello! If I worked without an autocollimator, then I would need to start with a flat prism. An autocollimator changes the logic of repair. It is rational to start with a V-like prism.

[@rodfrey]

@@gena_bazarko That is an informative answer, thank you. Connelly doesn't use an autocollimator in his methods, although I think they were available. Perhaps they were very uncommon.

[@gena_bazarko]

@@rodfrey If I didn't have an autocollimator, then a precise level would help me. It is impossible to make a wedge-shaped prism using a level, but it is possible to make a flat horizontal strip. From the correct geometry of the strip already made using a level, it is possible to make a straight edge of the corresponding length, and from the straight edge a wedge-shaped prism. The parallelism of both can be controlled again using a level. But such a method will require more work, and the accuracy will be lower.

[@hinz1]

How do you keep left/right straightness of V-way, when you start with flat guide first? With X/Y autocollimator, you can check left/right and up/down straightness of V-way easily, once it's done, put prism into V-way and a level on top, to check flat way. If you make flat guide straight first with level or autocollimator, you don't get left/right orientation/straightness of V-way with level alone. Or if V way is too high, you don't know, if to scrape left or right side of V-way, to get it onto same level as flat guide.

[@gena_bazarko]

@@hinz1 The V-shaped prism is already made, it is smooth, rectilinear, checked by the autocollimator. Now, focusing on its geometry, I make the second, flat line of this pair of linear motion.

[@mechatronicsfun4467]

Треба до Дядька Максима вислати, у нього чудовий верстат тепер є.

[@gena_bazarko]

Так, Д.Максим піонер схожих проектів, я ж дешо іншим шляхом хочу досягти подібної мети.

[@mechatronicsfun4467]

@@gena_bazarko щиро бажаю успіхів!

[@fabioth283]

Compliments for your job,but scraping have many things to understand before to do.

[@gena_bazarko]

It's not that difficult to scrape, you can get the hang of it pretty quickly, it's difficult to determine where and how much to scrape, but nothing more.

[@fabioth283]

@@gena_bazarko yes.i know it a bit.is 36 years i scraping old and new machines

[@gena_bazarko]

@@fabioth283 Then, if possible, point out my mistakes, or just give me advice. Now or in other videos. It will be useful.

[@fabioth283]

@@gena_bazarko its all ok.just look with level the straight slide.can check for the 3000mm step by step by 250 or 300mm,depend your level resolution

[@fabioth283]

@@gena_bazarko also on the large size 80/100 mm with level.have a nice job

[@alevgsid]

Ужас, конечно, с чем вам приходится иметь дело. Советские направляющие это просто мрак. Ещё и маслосистема скорее всего находится прямо внутри станка. То есть его станина будет локально перегреваться нагревшимся маслом, если вы не придумаете, как решить эту проблему. Будет интересно посмотреть, что у вас получится, особенно в смысле геометрии, качества прилегания и происходящей от этого общей жёсткости конструкции. Печально, что кому-то приходилось и приходится работать на станке с незакаленными направляющими. Сейчас-то их зверски калят, износа почти не бывает при правильной эксплуатации.

[@gena_bazarko]

Когда завершу ремонт, отшлифую стол. Установлю на него оптическую линейку, к счастью недавно приобрел ее, и проведу измерения как положено их выполнять, диагонали, поперечные и продольные измерения. Итог будет четко определен. When I finish the repair, I will polish the table. I will install an optical ruler on it, fortunately I recently acquired it, and I will take measurements as they are supposed to be taken, diagonals, transverse and longitudinal measurements. The result will be clearly defined.

[@zHxIxPxPxIxEz]

I wish metric guts would say .1 .01 or thousands of a MM beacuse the "microns" ect confuse me. I belive he is saying he removed .5mm and or .019 of a inch

[@gena_bazarko]

Hello! I indicate the dimensions with their clear definition, and everything is duplicated in words on the screen and in the subtitles. A micron, as you know, is 0.001 millimeters or 0.000039 inches. On a V similar prism along its entire length, this is 3 meters, the error is 0.005 millimeters.

[@rodfrey]

A micron is just a thousandths of a millimeter, and is much more common than "thousandths" which is only used for an inch. In fact, you probably own several "micrometers" which were named because they could measure to a thousandths. Although not "accurate", for getting a fast idea of the level of precision, think of a micron as half a tenth.

[@zHxIxPxPxIxEz]

@gena_bazarko oh so I was an order of magnitude off! Спасибо for you quick reply! I was trying to translate off of the video title and got confused. Thank you

[@zHxIxPxPxIxEz]

@rodfrey you can say thousandth of a mm or thousandth of an inch. I personally think it's much cleaner to do so that "microns" or other metric short hand.

[@rodfrey]

@@zHxIxPxPxIxEz Well, then we should also say "thousand-meter" instead of kilometer, "hundreth-gram" instead of milligram, "million-ton" instead of megaton. Prefixes are part of metric, it's fine if you don't want to use metric, but it's a bit weird to complain that metric doesn't use American unit vocabulary.

[@therealspixycat]

Slava Ukraine! How many hours have you been scraping on this mega project in total?

[@The_Unobtainium]

This AI talk sucks.

[@fabioth283]

Can scraping too hard just when can see a smoke from cast iron.also you take your scraper too high,you lose power and patience an arms

[@gena_bazarko]

Since I have the option of using a higher or lower angle of pressure on the scraper, I quickly understand what works better. When the scraper is very sharp, you can keep the angle lower, when it becomes dull, you have to increase the angle. For a quick cut, I press on the cutter as hard as I can. Here the main guide is the reaction of the tool and the material.