How much battery does your e-bike need?

[@dag36523]

I think I did OK selecting my first E bike having not watched any technical videos prior to ordering. You videos are extremely helpful! I’m 70 why should the kids have all the fun….

[@yourfavouritescepticx8969]

😭 go grandpapa 😂

[@hayredinkrastev5102]

Bless you .

[@nigelkelly2286]

Amazing, hopefully you're still riding around at 72 now!🙏

[@adamsheldrick2474]

Just to add my experience. I have a 250w motor with pedal assist as that's the road legal standard here in UK. I consume less than 6wh per mile. This is riding at about 15 mph average on roads with only small hills putting a medium amount of effort in. I weight about 65kg.

[@jeffholmes9483]

Very good information! I have a 14 Ah battery and it works well for me. I normally ride about 20 miles at a time and have some good sized hills. My voltage drops from 42 volts to about 37 volts by the end of the ride. I'm not sure is that is typical or not.

[@Nitecrow314]

That is about right.

[@biscuitsalive]

I’m finding a 500wh batt is fine for me, I ride for fun around steep hills and muddy UK conditions. And often ride around 20miles for about 2 hours (or a bit less). I do get a work out with those numbers (due to more extreme off road conditions I ride) So I would deff want a bigger batt if I wanted a lazy day.

[@CelticShae]

*sees title* "How much battery?" I dunno, man. I think it depends on the degree of the assault.

[@WHITELIONNYC]

😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆

[@01imh]

LOOOL

[@rovingeyes9124]

Hey mate. Would your calculations be based on 100% efficiency, or have you taken into account some losses? Thanks.

[@kaikart123]

His calculation is based on experience, so it would be as close as possible to the real world situation. I found out his calculation is on the pessimistic side because I got higher mileage up to 10% in my experience, and that's a pretty good thing.

[@waltersmithat70]

Hello, I have a 48 volt 10 amp battery with a 500-watt Hub motor. 98% of my bike ride is done on level 2 assist about 10 miles an hour using pedaling and with the help of the motor. What I've trained myself to do over my ride, is turn the pedal assist completely off pedaling with no motor assistance. There's two benefits to this number one longer run time on the battery charge, number two or exercise. I mostly do this in the more flat sections and on slight Hills, keeping the motor assistance for steeper Hills or if I just plain feel lazy.

[@JeagerTv]

I do the same but just use the throttle when needed for hills. It gets me 30 miles on a charge most of the time given my Terrain

[@annoyingbstard9407]

It's worth mentioning that some generic "no brand" Chinese lithiums have nowhere near the a/h claimed.

[@CanonFirefly]

If you are building your own battery, get a decent charger like an Opus and test every cell for capacity and IR, especially if using Chinese cells.

[@colinmetzger6755]

What, are you saying the 48V 99999 mAH battery for 90 dollars that weighs 9 pounds shipped might not be 100AH?

[@DivergentDroid]

@@colinmetzger6755 I saw that battery on ebay too..that Cannot be right.. how do they get away with that?

[@joelhill4107]

@@colinmetzger6755 I know which one you are talking about, From Alieexpress. I am planning on building my own(conversion kit) with a 48 volt hub motor. I have never bought from this website,but kind of wonder if about them if you break it down all-lie-express. LIE? look at the ratings of this site. Did you end up buying this battery and similar hub or mid drive? I am trying to round up as much information as I can. Really want to get back on my mountain bike but have many medical issues that prevents me from pedalling much. I want something that has enough juice that can do some nasty hills, get some mileage and not leave me stranded. Much appreciated if you could let me know of your outcome. I know this is a very old video. Am on a very limited disability pension so got to do this build as cheap as possible. Ebay has a rear drive hub motor(from China) for about 400 hundred bucks cdn with shipping but the cost of batteries varies. Total ripoff I would say. Building your own with 18650 lithium ion for a fraction of the price. I didn't realize you needed to be an electronic engineer just to build an ebike! Thanks for a reply in advance. Joel Hill

[@bradleymorgan8223]

I'm building my own battery, thanks to your guides 😉 i've prioritized power delivery and reasonable weight. I have 80 samsung 30T cells, in a 20s4p configuration. Up to 140A continuous, 72V nominal, 12,000mAh. Not the greatest range, i'm expecting 12 miles or so, but the bike will be very fast.

[@onetailgunner]

Good luck with that battery caps are stainless . Solder won't stick with a solder iron . Learn how to weld !

[@bradleymorgan8223]

@@onetailgunner all the cells are spot welded, yes.

[@mundoracer]

To convert Amp hours & volts to Watt hours.... Ah x V = Wh 10 amp hour 48 volt pack would be...480 watt hours. Actually, a bit more since nominal voltage would be 52 or so, but u get the idea.

[@eBikeaholic]

Gotta love algebra! It is a pretty simple equation, but only after you play with it a few times.

[@CanonFirefly]

Nominal voltage of a 48v LiIon battery would be 13 x 3.7V or 48.1V. 51.8V would be a 14S pack.

[@fanom1]

I use my Bosch mid drive 250w motor class 1 e-bike for touring. This is a European spec bike so the motor cuts out at 16 mph. I usually stay on the eco mode unless a lot of hills. I am a cyclist after all.... I get around 60 -65 miles per battery. I have a 400 and a 500 Bosch battery. I carry an extra battery. So I have over 100 miles of range. My standard daily distance is 60 miles. I also tow a trailer.

[@NWforager]

wasn't there a budget chaindrive ebike in the works ? and the motorcycle conversion ,been wondering about that cool project .

[@jeffholmes9483]

I have built one of these chain drive ebikes . They aren't very difficult but you do need the right kind of bike or else you will have to modify the motor bracket. I installed a 250 watt motor on a cruiser bike and it goes about 15 mph on the flat road. These kits are a little more difficult to install compared to a hub motor but it is hard to beat the price. I spent about $300 on my ebike. The bike was $93, the motor kit $75 and the battery $80. I currently have 425 miles on the bike so it is fairly durable too.

[@bignuts9198]

@@jeffholmes9483 I wanted to buy same kit you have but the 450w for my son so I have capability later to go faster if I use a smaller battery like 24v will it slow it down or will it not work with 36v controller?

[@jeffholmes9483]

@@bignuts9198 Most of the places that I have seen selling this kits have a motor specification sheet. It is my understanding that the main difference between the 24v and 36v motor is the gear reduction in them. I don't want to tell you what to do but basically increasing the voltage will increase top speed. For example i bought a use Ezip scooter for my son to use at college and it ran on 24v lead acid batteries. I replaced them with a 36v lithium battery and got about a 50% increase in speed. It is actually a little more than 50% because of the weight reduction of the the batteries. His top speed was right at 13mph and with the lithium 36v pack it is right at 24mph. On a side note that is scary fast on that little scooter. I didn't change the controller or the motor just the battery. The way I might approach your situation is to buy the 24v 450w motor and run it stock for your son but when you want more speed just buy a new 36v controller and 36v battery. I originally bought the 36v 250w motor but have recently ordered the 24v 450w to put on my ebike to see if it will increase the top speed. I'm still waiting for it to come in. As for the controllers they are cheap, I bought a backup 500w controller for $12 on Amazon. Most of these kits use a YK31c controller and they are easy to find. I hope this has helped. I will warn you, make sure you choose a bike the motor bracket will fit on. I made a cardboard template of the motor bracket and went to the store holding it up to any bike i liked until I found one that would work. I still had to modify the bracket to get the chain to line up.

[@jeffholmes9483]

@@bignuts9198 Here is a link to a video I made reviewing the kit I installed. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYqTmH-Eq7d-iZo

[@bignuts9198]

@@jeffholmes9483 Thank you sir

[@evevangelist5910]

Hi Micah! Great videos and information! I have your DIY Lithium Battery book and am learning a lot though it’s taking me awhile to wrap my brain around it. I hope to build my own Powerwall someday. I appreciate your enthusiasm and contribution to clean energy adoption! Keep up the good work, man!

[@KjellKarlsson1]

Hi! Really good channel! I saw that you used the Swytch-kit on you bike in the video. I was thinking of getting that but I have between 11-13km single way to work. Can't decide between the ECO (180wh) or Pro (250wh) or maybe something else, it seems that if I get a conversion kit and fix it myself I will get a bigger battery that is cheaper but it's easier to take the Swytch kit with you if you pop into a store. How would you rate the Swytch? Great video, thanks! Edit: Would you say 35 km is correct? With you calculations is more like 20km

[@pashko90]

You need as much battery as you can afford. It's never too much battery. I never hear from peoples "I wish I have a smaller battery", but usually peoples want to have a chance to remove and charge battery out of ebike or scooter for swap(delivery guys for example) and have second battery.

[@JohnEich]

Actually I have too big a battery, no question. It was my first build, and I got sucked into that "well, if I spend a little more I could get that extra amount" cycle. Now I have this giant, heavy battery that I never use up on a ride, looks like an enormous blob on the bike, and is totally awkward to carry around when I remove it at my destination. Now that I know my style of ebike riding (ave speed, power usage, etc) I know that a smaller (lighter, more compact) battery would work better for me.

[@pashko90]

I'm actually 95% of time going full speed, cruising a bit boring for me. I always trying to get a bit more output out if my scooter.

[@Nitecrow314]

@@JohnEich You and the op are both right!

[@eBikeaholic]

Truth, we'll definitely start seeing more dual battery pack setups like wattwagons or r&m - eBikes are starting to be viewed as transportation vehicles.

[@edkeefe]

Great talk as always. I’m building a peddle assist bike and a electric motorcycle, your talks and books have been very helpful.

[@yougeekyou]

seems my 1.04 KWh battery should be good then.. ;)

[@thebootfitter]

That's just a little puny thing! But as long as it works for you, man! ;-)

[@dylonjenkins3856]

Same ;-)

[@shltoof]

What a show off

[@NoName-iz6bs]

Not if you’re averaging 50mph 😆

[@dustman96]

Great overview. My experience has been similar, my numbers are in agreement. A few things to add about battery size, or more specifically why I believe it is important to oversize your battery: -Range anxiety... Range anxiety is a very real thing with electric vehicles, it really takes away from the very enjoyable experience of whizzing about on your ebike. Getting stuck far away from your destination without power sucks donkeys, trust me. -You don't have to recharge every day, or after every ride. Even though it is simple to hook up your charger it can become annoying to do all the time. -You never have to pedal to get somewhere if you don't feel like it. You don't have to worry about riding efficiently, you can haul ass. Nice to be able to do that if you are late for work for instance. -Life expectancy of your battery. The more power you pull from your battery relative to it's output capability the more stress you put on it, reducing it's overall lifetime. A larger battery also allows you to not fully charge or discharge your battery(very important for li-ion batteries), which could potentially more than double the life expectancy. -Higher power output for longer periods of time. Your battery voltage drops as the battery discharges, with a larger battery you can spend longer in the higher voltage range(haul ass for longer). This is also better for the motor, motors heat up more at low voltages at a given power output. -Less voltage drop. Voltage drop sucks. -You can upgrade to a more powerful motor without having to upgrade your battery(assuming the new motor operates at a similar voltage). This all adds up to more enjoyment and pretty significant long term savings. The only downsides are greater up front cost and added weight. But even if you double the battery weight it's a pretty insignificant increase in overall weight compared to the weight of the bike and rider. Let's say you got from a 48 volt 10 amp hour battery to a 48 volt 20 amp hour battery, double the range with about a 6 lb increase in weight, low and centered on the bike, barely noticeable. Let's say the rider and bike weigh 200 lbs, a 6 lb increase would be 3%. I'm sure I missed a couple points, but do I even need to go on?

[@thebootfitter]

Good comments! I agree that bigger is always better (Unless space and weight are a concern).

[@eBikeaholic]

Agreed! I think we're going to start seeing more dual pack setups with one large integrated and a removable smaller one. The main reason for a larger pack for me is their ability to better handle the higher voltage sag when pulling 1500+ watts, but too large and you're just carrying dead weight.

[@dustman96]

I almost forgot the most important point. If you plan for a certain mileage capability then over time the capacity of the battery will drop off. It will drop to 80% more or less after 500 to 1000 full cycles, depending on how you treat it. If you oversize your battery it will do what you need it to do for WAY longer. If you double your battery capacity it could maintain a usable capacity practically forever. That's assuming a quality pack. And for the uninitiated, lead acid batteries are a horrible choice for ebikes. My first one was with 4 lead acid and they didn't last long and was dangerously heavy.

[@michaelpicozzi3910]

Really good comment

[@bimble4715]

Range anxiety is a thing and I experienced it quite a bit in my first EV but my eBike has pedals so at least I can still keep going :)

[@theferreira8632]

Good educational video. Thanks

[@MrTimmmers]

Interesting, I'm thinking of swapping the 500w hub motor for a 750w of same hub. Working out the pros and cons.

[@lewisgreen5188]

Always interesting and informative vids. Thanks, 76 and still pedaling (with assist)

[@dreamkiss4u]

would love to see you build a belt driven ebike.

[@adrianstealth340]

good topic , thanks for video, just about to build one using 71200 cells, will be 302 watt battery ( Brompton )

[@dshieh4vids]

It would be helpful to share with us how you determine your 25Wh/mi and 15Wh/mi numbers. That way we can do that for ourselves and be more accurate in determining our own battery capacity needs.

[@PNWeBike]

What I've done is have my bike display battery voltage instead of percentage (which can be horribly inaccurate). I record my starting voltage, and my ending voltage after the ride. I then use a voltage chart for my battery type (52v) to determine the amount of charge consumed on the ride, then knowing the capacity of the battery (17Ah in my case) I can take 52v x 17Ah to arrive at 884Wh potential. Using the starting and ending voltages I can determine what percentage of that was used, lets say 17%, and knowing the distance I rode, lets say 10 miles, I can determine that 17% of 884Wh = 150Wh and 150Wh / 10 Miles = 15Wh/mile.

[@anandsingh8987]

These calculations we tries the same, thank you for supporting the calculations. Now we have only issue how to maintain speed as with battery level going down, the RPM starts degrading.

[@Baddiework]

You could use a step up converter to keep voltage constant?

[@o1ecypher]

LOOKING GOOD, LOVE THAT HAIR AND BEARD, YOU REMIND ME OF THE SINGER FROM ABBA, ***Benny Andersson*** > en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benny_Andersson_discography

[@ATARI-DAVE-73]

what was her name ?

[@o1ecypher]

@@ATARI-DAVE-73 you mean his name

[@david-johnmonney5230]

You don't want to discharge your battery too low so you should add a margin. Usually the ESC's already include a small margin to prevent battery life.

[@davidburke7240]

I appreciate these baseline numbers to understand kw/hr usage. Do they change significantly from a R&M Supercharger vs Specialized Como 5.0-or trail vs commuter bike?

[@SootyHunt]

Dude your vids have helped me no end…. Can I donate ?? Thanks mate, I really appreciate it…. Just ordered the mrs a 1500w csc rear wheel kit to build her an ebike. Also building my own 52v 18ah battery to run it all…. I’ve learnt so much in these last 3 days. 80% of learnable info came from your vids, so more than happy to donate and say thanks 🙏 😊

[@BELLOBLOCK]

Can you do a vid on sw900 best settings? I have a 48v motor and 52v battery, display is asking for 36,48,60v , no 52v option. Which do I go with?

[@rgsparber1]

I live in the foothills on the south side of Phoenix and weigh 160 pounds. Using PAS 2 and 3, I go 25 miles on a charge. My battery is 500 WH. If I creep up the big hill, my current is 13 amps vs 20 when I max it out. This gets me more range. In order to hopefully get a longer life from my battery, I now charge when I get below 50% rather than 15%.Range is therefore not a valid calculation anymore.

[@johnzudans7724]

Good video I’m 250 lbs, riding on flat ground, over the first 300 miles I have averaged 3o miles per charge. I have not tried throttle only on my Lectric xp, but based on your video I should expect to get 15 miles on throttle only. I’m also doing mostly pas 2 with some minor pas 3. Does that sound right to you?

[@MrSakolphan]

Great video, thanks! I have a question, I bought an E-bike from AMAZON and it uses a 36v 10.4Ah battery, can I use a higher powerful battery such as a 36v 13Ah battery or higher as long as I keep using the same 36V?

[@andyfumo8931]

Definitely

[@WHITELIONNYC]

Range is HALF or less of what company says it is. 😳🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓

[@clerissonmesquita]

Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.

[@midknight2K]

Hi, Would the numbers change a lot for a recumbent trike, or would they stay the same? ps. very helpful video thank you

[@kaikart123]

I think you would get lower mileage, considering it has three contact surfaces and heavier weight.

[@laszlototh3355]

Thank you! Now i know, buying my first e-bike going to cost juust a little bit more than i expected! :D

[@joego7924]

For starter bike, try an Ancheer sport ebike on Amazon, cost from 650 to 750, promises 15 miles on full throttle, I got one back in December 2019, so far it's lived up to expectations, maybe I'll upgrade to Aventon next year, they go from 1000 to whatever is in ur budget, most bikes unfortunately come from China, might not be available for awhile

[@specialized500]

I will wait until the range is 100 miles .

[@slicaltimistic1]

😁😁It's already a done deal. They have scooters that can go that distance. Its right on KZbin channel.

[@dimamanzano]

My new battery is unitpackpower triangle 52v 28ah samsung 35e cell and it's amazing. With bafang bbshd and 3 inch tyre I get around 45 miles with full throttle. I wouldn't consider a smaller battery unless I have to fit it in a dual suspension bike frame.

[@DJKUYAALLY]

Where i can buy your same specs of battery, plaese any details on how to buy online and price. 😊

[@ahah1785]

well...my trike "needs"...36V 126ah....pack weight 35 kg.... consumption 30wh/0,62 miles while towing a converted shopping cart trailer... range 93 miles...top speed 25 mph (at that speed its scary as it is considering its a trike...)

[@Icarus931]

Hahaha... you weigh 150 pounds?? My construction boots weigh more . Nice video .

[@yone2002]

For paddle assist range, do you know the difference between cadence sensor vs torque sensor? Some manufacturer claim the torque sensor could increase the range dramatically. What is your experience? Thx

[@jimj2683]

There is no difference. People just tend to pedal harder with a torque sensor because that is the only way to get full assist power. With a cadence sensor you just have to spin the pedals around lightly to get full power from the motor. I would go with the latter because you can avoid sweating as much.

[@thebootfitter]

Thanks, Micah. Good video. I love the way you keep things simple for relative noobs. We gotta do whatever we can to get more folks edumacated!

[@dablet]

how to convert wh to amphour? all the batteries i see are in AmpHour. ok. never mind. i think i take the Voltage then multiply the AH to get the WH you were talking about

[@davefrimml1518]

I have a couple questions. I'm going to be rebuilding my current battery which is a 3or4p13s 18650 3500mah, to an 8p7s. Is 8p7s to much capacity? Or should I go with a 7p8s instead? Or either? My next question is, I have 24-3500mah cells and 6-3200 mAh cells that have a max output of 20amps but the 3500 cells don't list the max output amps! Can I run the 6-20 amp cells in a 7p, using 1 of the 3500mah cells? Or am I better off not using the 20amp cells at all in the build?

[@theferreira8632]

Whats the best motor voltage to get the longest battery range ever??

[@rvnmedic2709]

How would you go about figuring a combo of throttle and pedal? Be well and stay safe.

[@eBikeaholic]

Hard to do. I guess we'd need to find a way to standardize the testing somehow and separate the data? My range tests have been really basic - fully charge it and ride normally until bms lvc cuts the motor then analyze Strava gpx results. I think if you use a watt meter or something it might be able to separate the throttle from pas data but I'm not sure.

[@pedrocarvalho705]

Hi, I think that I saw all your ebike videos, they're great, I've learned a lot. I would like your opinion to make my ebike battery, will make a 20" fat bike. I'm gonna use a 3000W hub motor, controller: 50A peak current and 25A constant, using a 72V battery. For the I'm trying to decide between a: --- 20S6P with LG INR18650-MJ1 3500mAh-10A - will make a 21Ah, 60A, these batteries hardly handle 10A each - 120 batteries price will be 406€ --- 20S5P with Molicel INR21700-P42A 4000mAh - 45A - will make a 20Ah, 225A peak - 100 batteries price will be 455€ --- 20S6P with Samsung INR21700-30T 3000mAh - 35A - will make 18Ah, 210A peak - 100 batteries price will be 450€ In terms of amperage they are similar between 18-21Ah, but the current is very different, only 60A with the MJ1 and 210-225A woth the molicel and samsung batteries, despite only have a 50A peak controller; 1 - the 21700's will work like a 1\4 of the amperage capabilitty, do I have any advantage on that? 2 - does the 60A from MJ1, are more than enough? But I can never upgrade the controller to a powerful one. 3 - In range and acceleration any difference? 4 - I would like a 35-40km of range, just using throttle, do you think the 20Ah is enough? What would you choose? the price difference isn't big between batteries. Thank a lot, sorry for the big comment.

[@MarioNappa]

Here is a more detailed study of range, usage, etc. I use "about" 5 WHr/mile on level one just as you do. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYu4aK1mq5uJgNE

[@faxavier65]

I found your numbers very difficult to reach. I never do just throttle, always pedal assist. I'm 74 kg, 36V 500W front hub, my pedal assist does around 40wh, mostly flat road, no speeding. I really can't understand. I always carry 2 side bags on back rack, no big weights, mostly a little volume. To do 16 miles safely I have a second battery pack on back rack. I have 2 X 36V 15Ah battery packs.

[@davidvanniekerk3813]

Dankie/ Meric E-bike school. Thx for the 25Whr. I'm thinking.. I your Chinese motorbike(75kg) broke down. Can the electric motor (25Whrs @20mi/36km) take you back home??

[@thelonee-rider2301]

Peace and Blessings Micah!, Funny you should be discussing battery power and how much you need. Lol It's been a minute since I've been calling as they say in the South. Lol Been very busy on my second build. A few highlights: Mongoose Dolomite 26x4" (w/reinforced welds) a customized rear hub motor (5000w 100A )designed to reach 129km/85mph from SURINGMAX. Fine manufacturers of E-Motors for bikes, scooters, and motorcycle. You just tell them what you want and it's done. As a result I had to get insurance, and register it with DMV as a "E-Scooter. To ease the registration w/DMV I had the manufacturer stamp a label on the side of the motor that reads: "E-Scooter Motor" Lol. In fact they never look at it. I showed my virtual insurance card and gave the serial numbers for the Mongoose and the motor and it was a done deal! Question the 48v battery left over from my first build, I plan on series connecting to the 96v. More volts more power I've heard you say. Lol. The controller is rated at 100amps. Will this be safe to do? I also built a 8'x6' bike trailer w/ball hitch coupler and 3' side walls and tandem axles from a DIY kit from WIKEBIKE in Canada. Fine makers of bike trailers!! Prefabbed or DIY kits of various models. Stay tune for further updates and photos of finished project!!

[@Temmered]

I want 1million mAh to go 9000 miles

[@RT-yc3tk]

Looking at Ancheer 36V, 350w, will this work? Something to just get out, small compact 16" size, feels safer. 2 or 3 wheel, as long as compact for getting in house or store. Don't need much but vital. PS: 5'7".😀

[@PitchUpCampsiteReviews]

That's cool, so I should expect around the 100 mile mark maybe slightly over for my 60v nominal 1,500 watt bike. The battery is 60v×20amp=1,500wh. I won't be going over 15mph so I'm going to see around the 100 mile area from it maybe slightly more.

[@Twistamixa]

Hi, I think other! 1. How much range do you want? 2. Where do you drive? Flat terrain oder mountain! 3. How much Watt have your engine? 3. How many support do you need? Level 1 or 5? 4. What is your weight? 5. How often do you want to charge? So my decision is on a 250V 24V on a 36V system : 1000W are fine for me...

[@bdlondon95]

Hi I have 48V 1000W bafang metro it's be suitable for 52V 28.08AH pls answer my questions thx 😊😘💐💄

[@frasermatheson6761]

I have as 37v 9.6a BionX battery that charges to 41.5v. On the Grin Technologies web site they indicate you can greatly extend the battery life by only charging to 80% of max. Can you think of a cost effective way to only charge my battery to 80% using the standard 37v charger. The chart from Grin Technologies indicates I would want the charger to cut off at about 40.5v. The BionX charger uses a 4 pin XLR Male connector. Can I simply get a Male and female XLR 4 pin connectors to build a short extension jumper with a resistor inline that would limit charging to 40.5v if the jumper is used and would charge normally to the 41.5v if the jumper is not used? All feedback is appreciated. The purchase of a satiator seems expensive.

[@RT-yc3tk]

Please help. I am a 77 yr old 227 lbs woman with health issues that needs an ebike with pedal assist for just neighborhood (abt 3-5 blocks) 3 places. What size battery would you recommend? Bare minimum would do. Just because walking is difficult. Very little inclines. Thank you so much. God bless, stay safe.

[@wayneosborne2610]

Hi wondering if you could help I have a bafang bbs02b 36v 500w At the moment I have a 36v 15ah frame battery I’m thinking of buying a rack and battery it says it has Samsung 30Q 3000mah batteries 10s 11p would it last any longer than my frame battery or would it be about the same? Thanks in advance

[@miskomartinovic2583]

Some specs for bigger dudes I'm 130kg Mountain bike is 30kg I can pedal at 30kmh without assist on a flat but it's no walk in the park The 1500w motor runs at 750w while going 30kmh (just motor no pedal) My 1kwh battery lasts on average 2 hours. Which is way longer than my ass can bare on the seat 😂

[@manuelhall3102]

Hi. Can I use a 48 volt 500 watt 25 amp rated battery on a Bafang 48 volt 1000 watt 30 amp BBSHD Mid Drive motor? Thank you very much

[@bruzza3031]

What up,, don't buy a china hub kit, I did a1000 watt only goes 20 mph it said 31 on eBay came out from california sysler is the company but buy USA I won't buy it was 48 volt overseas anymore... Companies in the USA buy so many and then sell them not realizing I seen it say China to California

[@marthamryglod291]

I am building my first battery and have a question for anyone who has experience. 20s5p Samsung 40t 20ah 175amp continuous discharge. The question is layout in the frame. I want to maximize total series connections because of the total amps. I layed out the batteries in a 20x5, but ran out of room. So, I "hinged" the battery at 10s and now have a 10x10 square that fits. However, I have a single series connection that has to carry 175 amps. There must be a better way but I need help to figure it out.

[@honeypuns2]

Hi, I have a mini ebike for my son and it has a 36v 4.4AAh battery. For some reason it would not charge up anymore. I’m thinking of replacing them with a higher capacity battery pack. Will a 36v 20Ah work without changing the controller? Thank you

[@patrickrose2349]

I got a 48V 1000W conversion kit with two 48V 58000mah Li-ion batteries in parallel... Is this overkill?

[@jensdekker929]

I have one question i want to build a 36v 17ah hailong (Dolphin )battery. But i cant Find anything about waterproofing. Does Anyone know anything About waterproofing the case?

[@ATARI-DAVE-73]

bafang 500w rear, 48v 13ah battery, me 90kg, into wind on flat ground, 90% throttle im lazy. you get 50 km flinders st train station to werribee easy. there is alot, rim size, tyre size, tread, ass size, psi. smaller wheel gives more torque, bigger wheel gives more top speed. take care over there 😷👍🏼

[@CanonFirefly]

My 1.2kwh battery gets me about 60km at 40km/h using throttle with constant peddling. If I go 20km/h I can get 120km range.

[@TheHallucinati]

I wish someone covered the same topic for e-mopeds. This would put a dent in the pockets of all the goofs who sell people underpowered e-mopeds. 12 Ah 48 volt battery, seriously? You need AT LEAST 15 Ah, most optimal is 20 Ah and 60-90 volts, in that case you will actually be able to handle some pretty serious hills and can take on a second rider. And would be able to cover 60-70 km as a single rider.

[@FUNKBOOGIE1]

Micah Toll ? Can you build a electric scooter that's as fast or faster than the RION Electric scooter ? Can you make a youtube project video building one ?

[@BEEBEE159]

Batteries are so confusing. In this video, you are talking about Watt Hours, yet on Ebay all the batteries I see are described in Amp Hours. How does an Amp Hour compare to a Watt Hour? Why can't everyone talk about batteries, using the same language? Also, you made no mention of the motor size. I would think that would make a huge difference in deciding what battery a person needs. I would think that the energy demands of a 1000 Watt motor would be way higher than that needed to power a 500 Watt motor. Another confusing thing about batteries is this talk of Volts, whatever the hell that is. For example, a 500 Watt motor is usually associated with a 36 Volt battery; and a 1000 Watt motor is usually associated with a 48 Volt battery. I use the word "associated" because I have no idea why it is that a 500 Watt motor uses a 36 Volt battery. I don't understand any of this nonsense. Does it mean that a 500 Watt motor cannot use a 48 Volt battery, and that a 1000 Watt motor cannot use a 36 Volt battery? WTF...The electric bike industry is shooting itself in the foot, alienating it's potential customers. At the end of the day, I'll probably just end up getting a gas powered bike, because gas engines make sense to me. The electric bike industry needs to simplify its measurement and terms if they want to attract consumers. I know that these motors are VERY simple; but it just seems to me that the industry is suffering from geeky types who purposefully complicate things, just to make people think they are smart. Again, I know it's not that complicating, but I have enough things to think about, and I just don't have time to research this shit right now. This has been the rant of a frustrated potential electric convert who just doesn't have time for BS. One last thing I wish to mention...These batteries cost a fortune, and then they are very temperamental, and can easily be ruined, which seems silly to me. Lastly, people say that you can't even trust the battery specs because there are lots of scammers out there, selling low quality batteries. So, again, if the electric bike industry expects to prosper in the future, then they really need to get their shit together.

[@rollyherrera623]

I want to ride my bike. Low weight, small motor pedal assist and do my regular 100 miles with less pain..What do I do? 29er..Smaller is better..

[@MrMickey2000]

My bike is tri-powered 1000 watt /48 volt front hub motor, 53CC 4-stroke gas friction drive rear and petal assisted should I choose to petal.

[@timekeeperg2112]

Hello Micah i have a quick question....how simple is it to convert an ebike scooter from the lead acid battery to lithium ion.....and do i need to change the controller also?...or do i just need to match the voltage and or a/hrs ??? thanks for your help! sincerely Dan. Anyone with any accurate info would be appreciated also!( if Micah is busy!)

[@stelic9515]

I drive electric scooter in China and with 48v 12 amp battery I have range of aprox 40 km. Speed is 33 and I have 62 kg. Is flat terrain.

[@timnolan4407]

Makes no difference on my bike A Cyrusher XF800. Double suspension. Its looks like a motorbike. But I only use it on straight roads But plenty of torque. Can go on trails. But it's not really for that. Just looks lovely as well.

[@penskib1975]

Paid for a battery from unit pack power as seen on your link, still not got it from 30th/8 keep getting excuses, definitely not impressed, wouldn't buy again.

[@samarnonallaroundmarlongde1078]

I hope same day sir, you a giveaways battery:) for your subscriber, like me:) i"am Frome philliphines,the ebike battery is very expensive, thak you sir:)

[@rossconverse9067]

Thanks! This information was just what I was looking for, subscribed. Ross

[@kevincarpenter7841]

Are there any reputable lithium ion battery distributors in the United States. I can’t seem to find any legitimate cells on e-bay anymore and I don’t like the hassle and wait time if Ali. Do you have any knowledge of 18650 Battery Store?

[@206robert206]

Maybe my battery is old but I get bout 15/16mi on my 48v 20ah bike with 1500w controller 😂

[@ediox_delmion]

Sir I need your explanation If my brushless motor 800w Can I use double battery 100,000wat For single controler it mean my battery total 200,000wat there's not cost be damage or what

[@robinj357]

I was I was just wondering if you could answer a question I have 250 miles on my e-bike and only seen it go down one bar. 36v / 15ah . I've checked all the settings on the computer they are correct. Is this battery that big I've never ran it flat

[@stanleycruz7298]

What kind battery do I buy for 48v 2000w motor wheel?????

[@e-bikerbulgaria]

Never enough battery if are a leisure rider. I regular ride 100km+ all on throttle and love my DIY 21s 18p or 60+Ah. Thanks to DIY Lithium Batteries, that was able to build that monster pack. Thanks again Micah.

[@ATARI-DAVE-73]

21s ? is that 76v? dam, what was the weight of it?

[@e-bikerbulgaria]

FatAss David Yeah 75.6v=3.6 x18. I’ve never put pack on the scales does what I want it to do, go far and at reasonable speed.

[@lejend69]

Can I ask a question I have a Juliet connector on my rear bike motor where do I look to see what type of battery connector do I need since I want to upgrade my battery ah can you help me with this info I have a shwinn sidewinder 26” 36v 10.4 ah 250w can you plz help me with this thank

[@ThanosSustainable]

Was is really that difficult to provide metric units, even in text? Really?

[@johnlewis6880]

Helpful video, thanks. It would also be helpful to know what percentage of discharge optimizes the number of watt hours someone could get out of a battery its lifetime. On my sailboat the sweet spot for AGM batteries turned out to be between 50 and 80% of the capacity of the bank. discharging the batteries below 50% lowered the number of watt hours ovee the life of the battery. over 80% got into the realm of diminishing returns on the charging system (diesel engine). But ebike batteries my not behave the same way. Would it be better to have a much larger batter and discharge it less between charges? Would that be more economical in the long run?

Damn... I get about 11wh/km and one whole kilowatt hour worth of battery is barely enough... But my commute takes three hours crossing over a mountain range. I'll have to figure where to stuff another kw/h in the frame...

[@fanom1]

Its like MPG on a car...mostly pie in the sky...taken under optimal conditions.

[@stevebender57]

After creating a battery pack with over voltage on that motor sticker design (36 to lets say 52) has anybody made a voltage regular for the controller to bring the voltage back down to the original motor sticker design, wouldn't this make the battery last longer and the amperage draw down to the low end of the battery capacity have a steadier performance. I'm looking for long rides using higher voltage but not increasing motor RPM's. Would this make the battery last longer.

[@Idnalro]

I see you have the bike you put the swytch bike kit on. I'm considering buying this when it launches here for my first e-bike. I'm just looking for something to make my my 10 mile commute a little less sweaty on certain days. Would you recommend it?

[@a2audrey]

In 5 years, battery technology will make the ridiculousness of these range concerns will be obvious.

[@ebperformance8436]

I know the bikes that have the automatic motor shut off when you apply the brakes seems to go further than the ones that don’t. I have a problem with the pedal assist it seems that on any mode except for mode 1 the pedal assist seems to outpace me meaning I can’t keep up with the bike motor. My battery is at 1300 W 48 V battery the motor is 1000 W motor and a bike tops 40+ miles an hour if you’re riding on a long flat Roads…The battery is an anklet battery….The battery is actually more than a kit by $20

[@sunoncream1118]

14amp peak 10s setup , 30kmh top speed : 15 watt hour kilometer only electric

[@stuartfederman8646]

I have a trailer with my potential ebike.. Max load 400lbs. What would buy for this tow

[@DeveshJoshi_]

Very helpfull content. But if I use this in 1000 or more watt motor in ebike. What's the calculation?

[@revparsons3tl]

Quick question would it be better to match the amps of the bms say 40amp bms and 40amp controller

[@waylandlively7550]

How do you know if you can fit a bigger battery into your bike and it will accept it? I get an average of about 16 miles per charge give or take according to Hills in different things but I would love to get about 25 miles procharged. Is there a way to go from a 36 volt battery to a 48 volt, and is it based upon the make of the bike?