How not to remove studs

[@scooterdaddy_gbg]

Thank you for showing us! Like my father said: "I love work, I can watch it for hours"

[@richardbusby7141]

A copper washer under the nut and a really nice pool of weld helps

[@kevinhendon]

You made a good job out of a potential nightmare there Rob, well done mate 👍👍

[@kickbackgarage]

Thank you sir!

[@sidwallace6053]

Worked out perfect Rob as I do indeed have my coffee and a nice comfy sofa to once again enjoy your vlog here in cold wet Ireland

[@metromorty]

I am currently rebuilding a vespa and doing these same tasks. Thanks for the video. :)

[@AlanWhitson]

Great video rob ,top skills removing studs,well done

[@vespaveloce1924]

I’m surprised that clutch cover bolt snapped - I’ve never seen that before. The lower case half bolt is a fairly common pain in the backside!

[@markgsmith371]

The exhaust bolt and that long engine case bolt are always the ones. Copperslip along the length of the bolts seems to work for me.

[@Zacky12345]

The old haynes manual with exploded diagrams are very good.

[@true24inc]

Great video as always rob top guy can not wait to see it finished, last vespa engine i did the frame got robbed i was heart broken is there much theft in scooters where you are? i know its on the rise here in England.

[@acooper4482]

Use a size up on the nut to weld it gets more weld onto the stud, then heat casing and waggle it back n forth a little bit by bit. You turning it out one direction can bind up with the crap on the threads

[@markclayton9153]

Best to use copper ease on all the bolts that hold the crankcase together and also the exhaust bolt. Go gariety with the copper ease and make sure the bolts are tight enough.

[@markclayton9153]

Best use a torque wrench

[@iancarrington1967]

Sometimes cutting a slot in the end of the stud and using a screwdriver can work or a stud extractor if it’s not too badly corroded but not in that case I think. That BFA 325 engine looks interesting , I hadn’t heard of it before . Does it need a hole in the panel do you know ?

[@kickbackgarage]

It is the same manifold and casa as a sledgehammer, so probably. Just buy a fibreglass panel and cut if that is the only thing holding you back

[@leeclift4666]

Hi Rob yep that engine bolt can be a right bastard it gets all the wet crud from the road.I always cover that bolt in copper grease on assembly.Look forward to the rest of the build.A quickly question where did you get the rear shock rubber mounts l always thought they are just one piece of rubber cheers..Lee

[@kickbackgarage]

Thanks. The rubber came from scooter center

[@ChandlerHowell-Vespa]

Don't use copper grease on aluminum. It will actually accelerate corrosion and cause these sorts of stuck bolts. I typically use no grease at all and even motors I've ridden extensively on salted winter roads had no issues with case bolts seizing/sticking. I bought a motor that had a stuck bolt like yours, it took over half an hour with a torch, penetrating oil (PB Blaster), and frequent tapping with a punch to get it out.

[@keithgraveson3172]

Stupid design as muck goes down into the hollow swinging arm thru the hole between the engine mounts and corroded between the steel bolt and the ally casing

[@jfrorn]

Penetrating oil