How Pants Should Fit -- 4 Point Fit Guide

[@rg3412]

So glad you’re explaining the high rise pants are more flattering. Men’s fashion has constantly produced unflattering cuts in the name of “breaking the rules” and “being different”. The results have been disastrous and make men look unflattering.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad you appreciate the video. Rise on pants is so important to strike a nice proportion.

[@lt3880]

Good style principles were figured out by the post war era, but consumerist propaganda has convinced people they need to constantly churn through new looks out of a completely manufactured fear of looking "old fashioned". It hasnt just made men look ridiculous, its a tremendous waste of resources and created unprecedented levels of toxic garbage.

[@Andoy12]

Excellent video. Pants fit always an issue. A lot of guys can't make sense of it. Mostly, their pants don't have high enough rise.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Absolutely, again, I think this is an issue with RTW -- we just have such a varying figure that there is no way a standardized size will do us justice.

[@checkandmate4703]

Perfect explanation with examples, this video would have saved me some money a year ago. Nowdays I cannot wear low rise pants anymore, they are unbearable. You can add that higher rise helps keep shirt tucked all day allowing for easier upper body movement. Peculiar how I ordered sometime ago exactly the same beige tropical wool trousers, but since then I started liking something like 1930 style cut, where the rise is actually above belly button and hem covers at least half of the shoe. This style provides me with ultimate comfort and makes my legs appear strong and sturdy

[@Justin_Kwan]

Nice! Thank you for sharing.

[@cobbetlprogrammer1344]

Nice Job Justin! I personally use a 45 Degree angle cut (like the U.S Marines pant leg) to all of my pants. Thus it appears to be no break, yet the back is about 1 inch longer that the front. So no sock is visible. CHEERS!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for sharing, that's also what I do with my bespoke garments. Helps to cover the back heel but keep it clean in the front.

[@arthurcatalanotto1151]

I appreciate how you explained how function has everything to do with the fit. Or does fit have everything to do with function?

[@Justin_Kwan]

They are so intertwined in classical clothing. Could be either way.

[@kazackz]

this video is so insightful, I can't ever find pants or trousers that fit. I think I might buy my pants custom made :)

[@Justin_Kwan]

I'm glad you found this helpful. If you are interested in going custom, I'm always here to help out. Here is some info on our tailoring program: www.principlem.com/tailoring

[@james6048]

I didn't know I needed that. Thanks

[@Justin_Kwan]

Once you realize all this, it changes everything and you will never be able to wear low-rise, ill-fitting pants again.

[@sujoymazumder1723]

I do agree with your opinion of visual perception and optical illusion. However, while comparing the low-rise trouser with the high-rise, it seems to be a little biased as the low-rise trouser are too tight in the crotch area thereby causing creases, stacked at the bottom as well as knees whereas the high-rise trouser has good free fall with a stiff iron at the centre and also portraying a no break.

[@Justin_Kwan]

You are right, but the low-rise comparison is visually what I see a lot of guys in nowadays, making it more relatable to others and so they can see, visually, what kind of improvements they can make. Plus, even if the low rise on the left were not tight in the crotch, had a clean drape and didn't bunch up throughout the leg, they wouldn't look right proportionally and my legs would look short and wouldn't achieve a nice proportional aesthetic.

[@miles-178]

yeah, perfect size and look of those pieces!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Yes indeed!

[@stylishoversixty9459]

Excellent suggestions and recommendations on properly fitting trousers...just one question when wearing braces do you suggest the clip-on type or having buttons sewn onto the trousers?

[@alexanderstark9142]

Always go with buttons imo, they are more resilient

[@LorPGDL]

clip ons are what people wear that think they look distinguished but actually make a fool of themselves, horrible style.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Buttons are more resilient as mentioned and I find them to be more fleek and less clunky. Clip on version might lose their strength over time and they could potentially wear out or damage the waist band.

[@matthewv.8893]

Hi, Justin! Thanks for another insightful video. Could I ask for your advice with how to prevent trousers from catching on over-the-calf socks and not draping properly? I found that my trousers tended to do that after making the switch to over-the-calf, especially after standing up as the trouser legs catch on my calf. I also noticed that this tended to happen with my trousers made from more textured cloth like flannel and high twist. Could it be an issue of the trouser leg opening being too small? I opted for a 7-inch opening diameter for that tapered Neapolitan look, but could that be contributing to the problem? Thanks!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Hi Matthew, I know what you mean. I had this problem with my flannel trousers and wool OTC socks. I used to have 8 1/4 inch cuffs but am closer to 8 3/4 now, so widening cuffs is one solution. However, cuff opening size is relative to your height and weight and could also depend if you have stronger calf muscles. So I don’t know if 7 inches is on the small side without a reference point. Other than a larger cuff opening, you could also do full lining if you go custom with your trousers for the winter pants, which is what I do-this also helps with static in winter in a dry climate. Last point, I usually wear cotton socks now, which tend to reduce static and the pants sticking when I sit/stand.

[@matthewv.8893]

@@Justin_Kwan Thank you, Justin! I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. With my last bespoke commission, we went with full lining for that same reason actually, and it worked out rather well! It does run a tad warmer though, but it's manageable and worth the benefit of the enhanced drape. As you suggested, I'll definitely start opting for a wider leg opening in general to help in all cases, especially in the case of summer trousers where the full lining would be too warm. Really been enjoying the quality of your videos since I discovered the channel. Again, thanks for kindly taking the time to reply to me personally! A fan from Manila :)

[@Justin_Kwan]

Just glad to help out!

[@jacobcohen9205]

Great channel, Justin.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks, Jacob.

[@cyclops6909]

The fit is tough for us weightlifters to get right. Do you have any advice for pants that fit well or are loose around the waist but tight in the thighs?

[@Justin_Kwan]

The reality is a weightlifter who has a slim waist and strong hips and thighs will never be able to find a decent fitting pair of pants. If you can't access custom or don't want to do custom online, try to find RTW pants that fit comfortably in the hips and thigh, then alter the waist and reduce it to fit more comfortably. If interested in going custom message me and we can set up a virtual fitting over a call: www.principlem.com/contact

[@ianferris]

great video! subbed

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for subscribing.

[@byN91]

When you mention allowance in the hips, how much would that be? 1 or 2 inches

[@Justin_Kwan]

Typically 1-2 inches, but it can vary from brand to brand.

[@ashiqujjamanmunna]

Can you suggest me a fit? I have 34 seat and 20 thigh. So what should the pant measurements be for a flattering silhouette?

[@Justin_Kwan]

What is your waist measurement?

[@ashiqujjamanmunna]

@Justin_Kwan 28-29

[@Justin_Kwan]

​@@ashiqujjamanmunna For me, usually the pant measurement in the thigh is 3-4 inches larger than my thigh and around 3-4 inches larger in my seat (thats with pleats). For you, I'd try to find a trouser with a thigh +3 and hips, +3 since you are a bit slimmer than I am. It's not an exact science and there is some art involved, but give that a try. You might also have some trial and error throughout the process of finding what suits you best and what you like best. Good luck, hope this is helpful.

[@nguyenlabinhluong8248]

very nice, sir

[@Justin_Kwan]

Many many thanks

[@alternateunreleasedshellac505]

For me I see it in two ways: continental and drape cut.

[@countalma9800]

Thank you for this educational video. It is a PAIN to see 99% of men dressed in ugly trousers that don’t fit, and the irony is that these people believe their pants fit perfectly because they’re labeled “slim” or, better yet, “tailored” fit. Narrow silhouette is fine. What makes modern off the rack pants ugly and ill fitting is the low waist that throws off all the proportions and proper balance.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Amen! Thanks for sharing.

[@jorgefierro8241]

Anyone know a good suspenders brand? i bought 2 pairs of "argento" but the clasps didnt last 4 wears and became obsolete.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Albert Thurston. Also try going with the button-on version instead of clips: www.albertthurston.com/

[@andrew1212w]

I’m 6ft tall so I prefer a full break I do not like showing too much ankle when I walk.

[@Justin_Kwan]

This brings up a good point I didn't get into in the video: based on proportions, usually shorter gents look best in a very clean break, whereas taller gents look fine in either a clean break or full break.

[@byN91]

Hello Just, i want to copy your trouser look, may i ask your suggestion as to what width leg opening, knee, and thigh should be Im 5, 6 height, 29 waist trouser, slim build 62kg Thank you

[@Justin_Kwan]

Hi, for reference my beige trousers in the video are: Cuff 8 1/4in., knee 10in., thigh 14 1/2in. However, I wouldn't suggest you follow these measurements if you want to have a similar looking proportion fit. This is because we are different heights and weights and if you were to make something similar to mine, they will end up looking wider on you since I am larger. Based on your height and weight, try a trousers with a 7 1/2 in. cuff. I've graded sizes on my website, so our trousers and chinos will all have a similar proportion, you can also check our size chart for a reference (your size would be 78): www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/classic-chino-milktea

[@byN91]

@@Justin_Kwan wow thank you for this comprehensive reply. Appreciate

[@reardelt]

trousers only feel good if they have between 1-3% elastane. Without elastane, sitting down would be impossible if the pants are already snug on the thighs when you are standing

[@Justin_Kwan]

I think you might have missed the point of how a trouser should fit. If they have some drape, aren't tight and have clean lines, there is no need or use for elastane. However, a little elastane will add to further relax the fit of the pants.

[@reardelt]

@@Justin_Kwan If you are one of those genetically lucky guys who don't store fat in the thighs or you just don't hit the quads at the gym, then maybe non-elastane pants might work for you. But for the majority of the population, elastane is a god-send. A relaxed fit pant/jeans from Zara/Marks&Spencer wouldn't need elastane. But if its a regular/slim/skinny fit chino/jean, then elastane is needed. That's why virtually all of the jeans/pants of Zara, M&S, Uniqlo and other retailers have atleast 1% elastane

[@TRusheeRush]

Clip suspenders are cringe, only buttoned suspenders have elegance. From a sartorial theory standpoint, trousers function way better with suspenders.

[@alternateunreleasedshellac505]

Damn straight

[@Billybillyking]

I disagree on clip suspenders being cringe. The thing with most of the cringy clip suspenders is they’re usually too narrow and with cheap clips, however when done right, they can still achieve the elegant look of traditional suspenders. I’ve seen people like Chad Park from BNtailor pull off clip suspenders before.

[@ChristopherSajdak]

Aside from the aesthetics, one could argue that pinching your trouser waist with clips all the time wouldn't do it any good.

[@diamondbolton2944]

You could be Vince too

[@christiantroy90210]

Looks good but what if i want to wear chelsea boots pants can't be wide

[@Justin_Kwan]

on the contrary, I think Chelsea boots can not be worn with pants to slim. The pants need to drape naturally over the boots, but if they are too slim, they will always get caught on the top of the boot.

[@christiantroy90210]

@@Justin_Kwan interesting

[@davidb6927]

I love wide lapels

[@impendio]

Says who?

[@Mentis-de]

Are you japanese? :D

[@TheBlues088]

I didnt need this video. I watch classic Hollwood.

[@Justin_Kwan]

@@TheBlues088 that’s a great resource for amazing classical clothing. Thanks for watching anyways!

[@Perfectlyhonest22]

Only Americans wear button down shirts with a tie. Not a good look

[@Justin_Kwan]

I'm a guilty American in this case. I'll agree to a degree, I can not stand ties with small, stingy looking button down collars! However, I like the proportions and look on mine :)

[@Wildmutationblu]

As a style guru, you should have checked your outfit in the mirror before filiming. Your tie is pulling towards your right and looks unsightly.

[@Justin_Kwan]

How do you know that isn't sprezzatura?

[@michaelstecyk7365]

@@Justin_Kwan agree

[@Masterhunter325]

Askokey would not approve

[@Justin_Kwan]

I think the Proff, as he calls himself, would agree. However his stylistic preference is an even higher rise and a straighter, fuller leg width. I'm trying to stay within the boundaries of classical fits but also keeping it modern and relevant for the everyday man.

[@pantaraxia]

Dogmatic blowhard

[@stefanhnavetsea1588]

I disagree about the rise, what make you look taller is long inseam or the crotch of the pants that is exactly at your crotch and not sagging far bellow your actual crotch, and wearing the pants until it breaks on the shoes rather than hanging on the ankle also make you look more seamless and taller, wearing the pants that is slightly bootcut is going to make you look taller because it creates illusion of highrise building/ tall tree perspective, while wearing pants that taper down into carrot shape is making your leg shorter because it makes your shape like caricature drawing, the waistline of the pants itself doesn't really matter because unlike women skirt, men pants clearly show where your leg starts no matter how high or low your rise is. high rise pants just look better worn under a waistcoat that is the only reason of high rise pants to me.

[@Justin_Kwan]

You bring up good points but I will reiterate the high rise making your legs look longer. You mention the inseam and crotch, if your pants sag, that means the waist is lower than it should be, thus dropping the crotch point in your pants, and it wont look good. If you pull your pants up, the crotch area wont be saggy and your rise is now higher. The important thing here is you have a trouser that has a higher rise in the first place. In terms of carrot shapes and boot cuts, I think that goes into a deeper topic which is stylistic and proportions--if you are top heavy, you definitely don't want to have too tapered of a trouser, it will look like a carrot and off balance.

[@WearilyCorrect]

I grew so my pants are too short... Give me a break!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Check to see if there is some inlay, maybe they can be let out and lengthened a bit.

[@WearilyCorrect]

@@Justin_Kwan I was making a joke, cause if you outgrow your pants they lose the break.