HOW TO 3D PRINT your own RC AIRPLANE

[@DocLois2010]

When you hear the German accent the first thing that comes to mind is "precision". Great work.

[@Cripit65]

@Gaius Baltar hotdogs and beer ?

[@noahlangseth5196]

"After a couple of thousands replacements..." That's funny.

[@mpcrazyscience7097]

WUNDERBAR

[@FischOderAal]

Only legit with american accent xD

[@franken0702]

@Wyatt Watling in German.

[@MultiSubjector]

Erik Frank in english

[@MarcAntoine01]

@@MultiSubjector in French.

[@iskandartaib]

Hahaha...

[@ThePrintZone123]

as a rcplane builder and a 3d printer this is amazing

[@rolandog6388]

what a beautiful design, the money is in the see-through, wow!

[@chuckintexas]

Beautiful work , and GORGEOUS countryside ! Very NICELY _done_ !

[@aussieparamotorman9931]

Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!

[@Raiden-pi3gt]

May i get the files?

[@Florian24]

remember never fly directly after lunch, that moves the CG to the belly

[@super_salty9189]

Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda. Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.

[@CNCKitchen]

Good to know, thanks!

[@bartoszjakubowski1047]

Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:

[@markdaniel8740]

Bartosz Jakubowski besides the heat, baking soda makes fumes. But it is very strong

[@super_salty9189]

Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA. I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat. And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great. Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.

[@markdaniel8740]

Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm. The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.

[@vgfxworks]

Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome! .. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed. brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!

[@pplpplown]

my first thought was awful choice lol it would blend right into the sky! but thats maybe because im from new york where the sky is permanently grey...

[@milewesler9592]

It appeared to fly fine, But when you put a heavy camera on the very tip of one wing, it's gonna crash

[@gilesclement]

Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.

[@leesuschrist]

I have no experience with any RC vehicles, but I'm determined to build a 3d printed flying wing. This look like so much fun!

[@MrRafsany]

nice and smooth build. cheers... 12:50 you could've superglued toothpicks/fibers as rebar to make those joints stronger...

[@DeimosTV]

Jedes mal aufs neue bin ich von deinem absolut genialem Englisch begeistert!

[@CNCKitchen]

Vielen Dank!

[@Yogenh]

I have done the spitfire, the PT -17, the ebge, and the lager spitfire. Have had a lot of fun with them.

[@ericsteel7643]

Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.

[@stevenwan9013]

Thank you so much! I spent days trying to figure out why parts were missing after slicing. Made my day man :)

[@alexchulzhanov]

I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!

[@tanglewoood]

I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!

[@cwb7143]

Isn't there strength levels of the materials so you can avoid that if you wanted too?

[@abyssalreclass]

Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3

[@Ocean_Man]

yeah, it prints firmer tpu real well

[@misan2006]

baking soda works well to fill gaps with superglue

[@skayofox]

I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :) I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it. (Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip) Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D

[@airailimages]

Impressive!

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

Superglue and Baking Soda also works great for filling gaps, if youn dont have glass beeds or really fine sand.

[@RCPlaneAddict]

Nicely done. That plane rocked!!

[@ugry_noob]

how is almost every shot out of focus

[@BentRim]

I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!

[@CNCKitchen]

Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.

[@BentRim]

@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.

[@VictorMartinez777]

IT IS A VERY GOOD DESIGN OF A GERMAN BF 109 G I LIKE A VERY GOOD JOB

[@manassehitegi]

How about you add some RGB lights inside for night flying 😊

[@ripmax333]

For that size I would print it in LW-PLA, I bet it would fly much better with the lower wing loading.

[@WDZaphod]

Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm. Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt! Danke für das informative Video!

[@ctbram0627]

GG I just purchased a CR-10 S4 and I am looking forward to printing my first 3D labprint aircraft just have to decide which I want to choose.

[@HellafreshFPV]

Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎

[@iskandartaib]

I think you meant to say "first flight". The "final flight" would be where it crashes and gets totally destroyed... ^_^ Incidentally, instead of the glass micro-balloons, try baking soda - it behaves as an accelerator. Or mix a few percent baking soda with the micro-balloons (lighter). We used to use baking soda in a squeeze bottle for ultra-quick field repairs during control-line combat/F2D matches - this was back when we flew all-wood models and before foam wings took over. Just hold the broken pieces together, puff some baking soda into the joint, and squirt thin CA on it. If necessary add more baking soda. The glue would set off immediately. For pushrods - try aluminum brazing wire (the straight rods, not the stuff on a spool). MUCH easier to bend and lighter to boot - the 1.5mm should be strong enough but you can also get 2mm and 3mm. As with all pushrods, long ones need to be braced.

[@praetorians235]

Hallo Stefan - i print now the Stucka Focke- Wulf 152 H :)

[@avejst]

Wow, nice project Thanks for sharing 😀👍

[@knowledgebyte]

Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.

[@richardhoch5080]

Ich liebe dieses Flugzeug :) Mein Uropa war damals der Jüngste Pilot der dieses (damals hochmoderne) Flugzeug fliegen durfte :) Ein sehr cooles Video

[@guusknobbout4162]

Thanks man finally got a good print with your settings. I changes the nozzle to 0,5 mm to get the perfect weight and stifness. 👍👍👍😎

[@rohansully584]

I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.

[@umbratherios5614]

WUNDERBAR! WONDERLIK! WONDERFUL!

[@parkerfox1152]

What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?

[@valentins.5010]

Dieser deutsche Akzent ich fühle es

[@potteryjoe]

2 years later & I'm starting the 3DLabPrints P-17 Stearman. We'll see how it goes!

[@parkerfox1152]

What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?

[@potteryjoe]

@@parkerfox1152 it looks like the biggest difference is the performance package uses a 14.8V battery but the eco performance uses 11.1V. The performance package is going to be able to spin a bigger prop faster at the top end. I think it's overkill for this model. This isn't a speed plane. I've already got the exact motor specified for the performance package, so I'll use it. My batteries (if they're still alive to charge) are the 3S 11.1V, & I've already got a 56A speed controller, so I'll use that. I plan on using an 11 X 5.5 or 11X4 prop so it should pull through the air a little slower. I may need to change that up though, I'll just have to see.

[@potteryjoe]

Overall, I think either package should work well, but all the recommendations in the guide are out of stock (outdated, so no longer for sale). Looks like you'll just have to find something roughly comparable as far as size, weight, & power output, & go with that.

[@parkerfox1152]

@@potteryjoe All right thank you. That's what I thought. I am planning on building the P-51D mustang soon and so I just wanted to make sure that I was making the right decision either way. Do you think that for someone who has minimal flying experience, the performance package would be a nightmare and that I would be better off with the eco package?

[@potteryjoe]

@@parkerfox1152 I've only looked at the Stearman P-17, so I'm basing everything on that. Looking at the differences between the 2 packages there, I'd say you'll probably be ok with either. The eco package seems more than adequate, & the performance package doesn't look like a huge step up from that. I haven't flown for several years, so I've been trying to practice up with my old Realflight 6 simulator. Before I fly this P-17 Stearman, I plan on getting an old foam Tigermoth running again, so I can crash THAT instead, until I get a little more steady on my landings!

[@Ringmaster860]

I laughed so hard in the Beginning (German as well) :D

[@Breadfan00]

Nicht so tief Rüdiger! :D

[@Kradmelder24]

Hauptsache erstmal 'nen Höhenjäger ausgedruckt, der dann auch noch fliegt! Sehr cool!

[@NicMediaDesign]

Schönes Video - wie immer. Nice video as always.

[@pokiou]

I used these settings on the Ender 3 pro. Worked great, But i have slight warping on the print base. Maybe i need to sand it more :P

[@4funrc11]

Gonna end in tears. Yeah, that'd most likely be me. lol. Great series! Thumbs up!

[@corvette724]

Great Video. Thx, pls wich nozzle diameter do u use? Thx, axel

[@BaronVonRichtofen]

You should always fly on windy days. At least 5mph. It makes 10x easier. Great model.

[@sheep1ewe]

I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.

[@lt.bagelbites6969]

Nice 109 model. It looks really good!

[@teo5793]

Thank you for your videos, you deserve a lot!!

[@migueltrombettonipipinich1719]

it is unbrekeabke??? is beautiful!!!!

[@matthewbrothers2823]

Got the PT17, and Cessna 152 completed and flying. Now working on the 64 inch edge 540

[@Thefreakingwierd1]

What are the approximate print times in total for a full aircraft?

[@jonpardue]

Excellent effort and so interesting to see through the model. Subscribed.

[@hunelektroBF]

"I used the stock glass bed on my CR-10 which was very flat.." - 2018 and we have to say: You are lucky!

[@CNCKitchen]

I probably am ;-) But honestly the bed on both my CR-10 and CR-10s is quite flat.

[@Jimbo-in-Thailand]

Mine too.

[@mohamedfaroukbalouli7809]

Is it a good idea to get a commercial grade 3d printer and start making basic RC airplanes and make a living off that?

[@nicholasroberts6954]

Errr ? So as far as the structure is concerned the steel control surface push-rods are the heaviest items. Could they not be replaced by PLA ? Could the Fuselage sections ends be formed with a rebated edge so as to form a lap joint between sections ? OK, that sort of design might detract from the outward appearance of a transparent model, but the increase in strength would be well worth-it in coloured/painted models.

[@mybluebelly]

I think the Luftwaffe will be very interested in learning about your new manufacturing plant.

[@raidzor5452]

You can basically get much more accurate 3d files from a game like warthunder, slice them, adjust, and print them. And they are also going to be free.

[@miljnor]

how do you get 3d files from a game like that?

[@keithlucas6260]

Beautiful airplane. From experience living in a hot climate PLA melts (bends/distorts/droops) when left in direct sunlight and worse if left in a vehicle.

[@simulatedfish1995]

It cools so quickly due to the air movement in this application, but if you were at an event or long queue runway I would bring a umbrella to cover it while waiting.

[@sterkriger2572]

You look like Matt Stone. BTW amazing project I'm just waiting my printer to arrive to try. Subscribed

[@valleyphotomaster]

Very well done, thank you!

[@pawek9528]

Why do not extend connection edges a bit or overlap struts to slide in between glued parts.

[@Boogie3D]

That is not the way to glue CA hinges. You should just put a few drops of super thin CA from the sides.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for letting us know.

[@brianwright4104]

You may need to slow the printing down to stop wing warp materials always move when heated

[@1supertec]

Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.

[@mikew3232]

Great work..

[@phantom3772]

great build i love it keep up the great work

[@simonbell527]

Nice Looks great!

[@angelofreitasrj]

Top! Congratulations!!!

[@munawarjaelani]

Please help scren short setting creality slicer or cura 🙏

[@iriquiosgunship]

Does PLA melt in the sun? I accidentally exposed my PLA-printed 747 to direct sunlight for an extended period of time as I was organizing items within our garage space which led to its warping.

[@MarcioTechInsights]

Hi, which printer do I need to print a plane like this one? a good cheaper option.

[@CNCKitchen]

An Ender-3 (pro) should be suitable.

[@markbuckley5360]

I'm printing a spitfire then! Want to fight bro? I or we will win again!

[@samuimuscle]

Good job! Thank you!

[@georgei2480]

I love this project. I don't like that the layer walls are only one layer thick.

[@daimonwilcox]

Best part is its cheap to replace any part overnight

[@MuRaT_C]

Super Videos von dir, danke dafür. Frage, wieso machst du nicht mal einen versuch mit LW-PLA der vergleich Colorfabb und eSun währe auch toll. Diese Filamente sind ja für RC Flugzeuge ideal!? Freue mich schon auf das Video :-)

[@SrPolicarpio]

I've build one and used the same motor and bateries and its not flying at all. I've realized that my 3d printed parts wheight more than it says in the instructions and i don't know why.

[@joma-iu4gd]

Thanks for your Video, do you think this is possible to slice/print in Bambu Lab P1P?

[@shadowhunter388]

Why not put a light aluminum rod between the wing sections? I would imagine it would give more structure integrity to the wings no?

[@zolatanaffa87]

Ohh! Finally I see you smile during the presentation! (guth tag evrybody .... CNC Kitchen) usually you're too serious :-)) Good job! really a big job! Thanks for sharing your printing experiences. What material is what you put together with CA glue in the gaps? what do you think of a version with a wingspan of 2 meters and already that we are landing gear retractable? Maybe it will be less nervous on the fly, but considering that the real plane was born to fight even the model will be very agile and nervous. Congratulations again Stefan!

[@CNCKitchen]

I used glass beads (like for sand blasting) as a filler.

[@zolatanaffa87]

I had never seen this product, do you have a link? Thanks for the reply

[@BogdanWeiss]

you can also use bicarb of soda with super glue kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZ2mfp6sest-lbc

[@marcelbettignie5638]

Very good . Felicitations.

[@dave-bennett]

Would be nice to know how much it cost to print the aircraft

[@SALTYDATTO]

This was great!

[@adamb8317]

I would think that 3D printing the skin would cause the plane to be a bit heavy. Would it be more weight saving to 3D print the structural pieces and skinning the plane manually?

[@TylerHarney]

That is beautiful!

[@oreilly1237878]

Well done

[@albertfalls]

Can you tell me what speed you print at? I'm having problems printing the wings because they so thin

[@filipeterra8981]

you may try to sew or rivet the parts together. nice project!

[@brezovprut4431]

Is PLA way to go? or we should consider some more advanced filaments?

[@fisherairsoft1318]

Nice work !

[@Nick-rd5xs]

Hoping for a response - is there a wat to text edit the g code so that the print is centered on the build plate? (When I load the g code directly, it prints in the corner where the plate seems to be unevenly heated, and warping occurs)

[@nerys71]

Gorgeous! wish it had larger chunks! less glueing.

[@ojsh_]

Could combine pieces with meshmixer, or other cad?

[@rjet4321]

What I mean is lower half then top half so you glue those together

[@CNCKitchen]

That would not allow you to have that thin outer skin.

[@ierik]

Very cool. Love it!

[@solunasunrise]

warum kein 2 - komponenten kleber ?... der so schön dick is, aus dem baumarkt ... gehts um die transparens ? dass das so halbwegs im gleichen farbton bleibt ?

[@kkuenzel56]

I would love to print one one a smaller scale as a static model.

[@CNCKitchen]

Unfortunately not all the parts slice properly anymore if you scale them down.