How To Adapt Vintage/Manual Focus Lenses to OM System Olympus /Cameras ep. 444

[@pjcardone164]

I am by no means anything other than an amateur. However, in all the years I have been using micro 4/3 with my old vintage manual lenses. I never learned about putting the number of the lens into the Ibis system. Thank you so much for this information. I have so enjoyed all the info that you have shared with all the camera equipment you use

[@RobTrek]

Thanks!

[@andy2253]

I currently have an OM-1, an EM mark X, an em 1 mark iii and a Pen F. That Pen is my favorite camera. It is so easy to use. I am not a professional but I am an enthusiast. I just love the controls on the Pen F. Keep making these videos! I just ordered an OM to mft adapter to use my 35mm f2 and my 50mm f3.5 macro.

[@RobTrek]

Nice. The PenF is a special camera. The old OM glass is perfect. Relatively small for vintage glass.

[@EricSnissaert]

Thank you Rob for your very comprehensive reply! I really appreciate it. Now I understand more the different S-IS settings, also why to set the IBIS according to the the focal length of the lens.

[@RobTrek]

Focal length optimizes the ibis. It tells the camera how much to adjust ibis for motion. A 300mm focal length will require much larger movements than a 12mm.

[@rodneymiguel3914]

Thank you very much. I'm sure many will appreciate your teachings. Thank you again. Rodney from Brazil

[@RobTrek]

Happy to help!

[@jpsteiner2]

Rob, thanks! Really nice video. I recently purchased a couple vintage lenses. Your guide helped me correctly set up my OM-5 for the lenses.

[@RobTrek]

Thank you!

[@jclee600]

This is such a fantastic video. Extremely helpful and very well organized. Thank you!

[@RobTrek]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davidmill7289]

Thanks Rob. This is very timely and useful as I’ve also been watching another channel called Zenography and have just purchased my first vintage lens - an OM 135mm f3.5 in lovely condition from eBay. Your tutorials are always spot on.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks, David. I try. Although I love the 135mm focal length, for me it's a bit awkward on m4/3. It's great at the dog park where I take pictures of my dog running around, but everything else it's just too long. I like the Nikon 105mm f/2.5 and Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 for my telephotos. Anyway, the OM 135mm is fantastic. It's on my shortlist of 135, but I have too many lenses at this focal length already.

[@TristanColgate]

@@RobTrek the 135mm is great on 35mm. I recently got the zuiko 100mm f2.8 though, and have fallen in love with it. The 28mm 3.5 is great for adapting . 56mm works OK on m43, and, since you're only using the middle of the lens, it's pretty sharp. I even use the 28mm with a 12mm extension tube for high res mode 35mm scanning on my em5 mk3. For 35mm I find it's actually slightly sharper than the cheap 7artisan 60mm macro I actually bought for the job.

[@davidmill7289]

Thanks

[@RobTrek]

Thank you!

[@maryedwards3583]

Hi Rob. Thanks so much for such a comprehensive video. I have started using my old lenses on my EM1 mk2. You always go the extra mile with your tutorials compared to other KZbin photographers. My questions about zoom lenses and aperture settings all covered so clearly in your video. Thank you.

[@RobTrek]

Happy to help!

[@extremelydave]

Yet another great info packed video from the Pharaoh of Photography!!!!

[@RobTrek]

Thanks again!

[@ominchord]

Takk!

[@RobTrek]

Thank you!

[@williammoskovitz7772]

Thanks for this video !!! I use lots of vintage lens on my EM10 MarkII, but I was unsure what setting to change when using a zoom lens. ? This video certainly clarified my question. Thanks !!!!

[@RobTrek]

Thanks. Glad I could help!

[@hansho4744]

Thanks Rob for this excellent tutorial. At 8:15, please can you clarify these features (e.g. lens info setting)... should it be in E-M5iii but NOT in E-M5ii, thank you. I own an E-M5iii(rel. 2019) which has these features. I have checked E-M5ii(rel. 2015) user manual which no "lens info setting" function. As far as I know PEN-F(rel. Jan 2016) is the first Olympus camera that can set lens info. Even earlier than E-M1ii which released later in 2016.

[@RobTrek]

My mistake, I meant to say the EM5 Mark II does not and the Mark III does have Lens Info Setting.

[@hansho4744]

​@RobTrek Thank you Rob.

[@Impostertot]

Lots of good tips and information in this Rob, thank you! So glad you are getting away from those 2+ hours gab fests, this series is so much better.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks! It's been a while. Good to hear from you. I still do the live streams once in a while.

[@jameswburke]

Great tips for the unfamiliar menu settings. I recently got an Olympus OMD EM10 for use with my Olympus lenses. I've had to order an adapter for OM to M43 so I can use them on this great little camera. Always loved Olympus glass so can't wait to get using it.

[@RobTrek]

Glad it was helpful!

[@neilcousineau4956]

Good one Rob. I occasionally use a few old OM lenses but never knew about inputting the lens info into the IBIS. Thanks and as always very helpful.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks. Glad I could help!

[@larry3194]

Excellent tutorial, just donated!

[@RobTrek]

Much appreciated!

[@robinschaeffer6252]

I use legacy lenses a fair amount of the time. Aperture priority does allow you to have the camera set most of the exposure parameters automatically. Another way to set the camera up is to set it to shutter priority (S) and Auto Iso. This allows you to have the back dial adjust shutter speed and the front dial adjust exposure compensation and let the Iso be determined by the camera. If you don't like the Iso setting you can adjust either the shutter speed or the aperture to change it. I have the viewfinder show what the exposure looks like and can dial in compensation with the front dial if I want to adjust it. I guess the only advantage over manual mode is it allows you to have exposure comp on the front dial. When using manual zoom lenses I will set the IBIS to the focal length range I think I will be using the most and then use the super control panel to adjust it quickly if I change from it. For situations where I am changing the focal length quickly I will turn off the IBIS and use the reciprocal rule as you mention. These modern digital cameras allow us to have so many more options than we had when shooting film.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks for the tips! I appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your experience.

[@alangamble3236]

Thanks Rob, great informative vid as usual. Great tip about use of manual zooms thank you.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks, Alan!

[@jpsteiner2]

Rob, Your guide has helped me a lot. One area where I am having challenges is when I use my vintage lenses in low light. I use Aperture priority on an OM-5. When the light gets low, and I take the photo, the image comes out really bright. For example, if the recommended shutter speed is 1/2 second, when I snap the photo, the image is way too bright. I'm not sure why.

[@RobTrek]

Sorry I took so long to get back to you. I'm not sure why this would happen either. Try using center weighted metering. Make sure your metering is not set to Spot (HI).

[@stevencbradley]

This Is seriously off topic, but... Is there a disassembly reassembly guide for the Olympus 14-42 lens? One of our cats knocked my little Olympus PEN camera off the end table where I had it and damaged the lens. Lesson learned, but I keep (kept) it there to photograph our pets and the occasional elk that happens through our front yard. Any way, many many thanks for your videos and info.

[@RobTrek]

I haven't seen a guide to do this.

[@EricSnissaert]

Thanks Rob! Always very informative. I recenly bought the TTartisan 17mm 1.4 for Olympus. I this case I don't need an adaptor as I can put the lens directly onto my E-M1 mrk II. Honestly I don't fully understand why I need to put in the aparture number in the IBIS? I used the lens with S-IS2 and got very good pictures? Probably I'm missing some knowledge in this area. Where can I get this missing data? Some people advice to put it on S-IS1 and some suggest to put it on S-IS2 which is a bit confusing.

[@RobTrek]

The aperture is set in the lens data menu for exif information only. It doesn't affect exposure. For IBIS, you set the focal length in mm. So if you attach a 17mm lens, you set the ibis to 17mm. This is important. The camera adjusts the ibis for the specific focal length. If this is set incorrectly, then you images could be blurry or not pin sharp. S-IS1 is "All Direction" and S-IS2 is "Vertical". Use S-IS1 for point and shoot. S-IS2 is optimized for when you are panning your camera horizontally. For example, tracking a car, train, person running, etc... S-IS3 is optimized for panning vertically. So maybe for birds or planes taking off in a vertical direction. S-IS Auto tries to detect the panning motion and optimize ibis. I typically leave it on S-IS1 or S-IS Auto.

[@EricSnissaert]

@@RobTrek The moment I applied what you explained I got almost all pictures very sharp!! Amazing, what a difference! Thanks Rob!

[@AaronFait]

Dear Rob! Love your videos already many years. I have a omd em5 mark II and a few pro lenses. I’d like to have another body mainly for fixed lenses like a 17 mm. What would you suggest to get? I was thinking even to go for the fujifilm XV but I would rather prefer to stay in the Olympus world if possible.

[@RobTrek]

I think the fujifilm vi is a bit pricey for what it is. But it's all about style and build quality which is priceless. The PenF fits the same bill. I had the x100f for a little while. Didn't care for it. I'm not a fan of fixed focal lengths, so I'd probably go for the Panasonic LX100 II. Otherwise, there is not much out there. Ricoh GR series - no viewfinder, Leica - expensive. If you don't have the Leica 15mm f/1.7, that would be money well spent for your EM5.2.

[@AaronFait]

Thanks @@RobTrek

[@ZOly62]

Rob what about if we use manual lens with 2.0 teleconverter? Should we put doubled focal lenght in IS? Thanks.

[@RobTrek]

Yes. Same goes for focal reducers where you would multiply by .72 instead of 2.

[@cmalc8]

Finally found 'lens info' under H1 in my EM1ii 🤦thanks to your tips Rob! Typical of OM menus to use a different letter on your PEN-F and to double-entry the focal length in stabilisation INFO setting. A bit messy, and the most annoying thing is, I know I'll forget this 👴.

[@rajeevegunawadena3215]

I could not find in the cog menu H Lens information entry on EM5 Mark ii.

[@RobTrek]

Unfortunately, they left this feature off on the E-M5 II.

[@johnthomas3273]

Hi Rob, In your tutorial you show a lens with a speed booster on, can you explain what this adapter does please.

[@RobTrek]

It basically takes a lens made for full frame cameras and converts it to work on m4/3, just like a regular adapter. However, it also reduces the image circle of the full frame lens which concentrates the light more onto the sensor. This has 2 effects, it makes the image brighter by 1 stop, and it reduces the focal length. So a full frame 35mm f/2 lens becomes at 25mm f/1.4 on m4/3.

[@alexpotapov2010]

Very useful! Thank you

[@RobTrek]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stevencbradley]

Well, I just bought a hands free magnifier, and I happen to have an extra lens. I have no choice at this point, except to take my $75 lens to a camera store to fix it for $75...Thanks for all your great content. I'm on Social Security, so thanks will have to do, but I appreciate the material you present.

[@RobTrek]

Thanks and good luck.

[@arniecoons8248]

one item you didn't address was the aperture at which exposures are made. If a 90mm f2.0 Zuiko is attached via the adapter, will all exposures be made at f2.0 since there is no way for my OM-D E1 Mark II to activate the aperture control lever on the lens? Or is the aperture ring to be set to the desired aperture and then the preview button on the lens to be depressed in advance of making the exposure? Thanks for any guidance you can give. I still have my two OM-3's and seven Zuiko prime lenses so you answer will largely determine the feasibility of using them on the OM-D E1 Mark II.

[@RobTrek]

Hi. The adapter that I purchased has a pin to push the aperture control lever closed when you mount the lens. This allows you to open and close the aperture via the aperture ring. I don't think the pin on my adapter is unique. It should be on any adapter you purchase.

[@arniecoons8248]

THANKS. Time to go shopping for a replacement. @@RobTrek

[@arniecoons8248]

BTW, what is the brand of the adapter you use? @@RobTrek

[@arniecoons8248]

@@RobTrek got a different adapter and the issue was immediately resolved. Thanks again! Enjoy your great vids.

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

I have a speed reducer for Cannon EF to MFT. It works pretty good, but If I use a second adaptor like Minolta to EF, then EF to MFT I get a blank black screen as if no light is passing through. I can see the light passing through the lens when not attached to the camera. I have many Sony "A" mount lenses but nobody makes a speed reducer adapter for them.

[@RobTrek]

Does the Minolta to EF have electrical contacts? If so, maybe they are incompatible with the EF to MFT somehow. If not, then it's possible the EF to MTF adapter is telling the camera no lens is attached. Can you attach old non-af EF glass to the EF/MFT adapter?

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

@@RobTrek As far as I know, nobody makes an adapter for Minolta "A" mount lenses with electrical contacts. I take it motor voltages and such are just not compatible. I have a dozen of the Sony "A" mount lenses that have no manual focus or aperture. so no way to use them with MFT. I have been playing with the older Minolta Manual lenses. If I use the MC to MFT adaptor, the camera functions, (no electrical contacts). I thought I might try to take advantage of the Cannon EF to MFT speed reducer, (with contacts), so I bought MC to EF adapters. Camera does not like that. Apparently the camera sees the contacts of the speed reducer and they are not connected to anything. I did not find a speed reducer for MC to MFT so I tried a work around that didn't work. It isn't something I really need so don't spend time on a solution.

[@williammoskovitz7772]

Rob: Another question. When using zoom lenses I understand that you suggest turning image stabilization off, and if picking lets say 50mm from the zoom, use 100 sec shutter speed in manual mode. Can you also accomplish this by using shutter priority and setting the proper speed or do you have to be in manual mode ? Lastly on my EM10 MarkII using vintage lenses, I can't always tell if peaking is on. Yes, I have assigned the FN1 button to peaking. I have the color set to yellow. Perhaps I just need to experiment with another color. It would be nice if a little "P" would appear on the SCP when its on and disappear when its off.

[@johnthomas3273]

Hi Rob, When putting the lens info into camera with the 12-100 f4 what focal length should I put in, 12mm or 100mm?

[@RobTrek]

Hi. If you are referring to the Olympus 12-100 f/4 lens with Autofocus, you don't need to enter anything. The lens communicates with the camera all the information it needs to adjust IBIS and Exposure. Anything focal length you enter into the camera will be ignored when using any lens with electrical contacts. Typically all Olympus and Panasonic m4/3 lenses.

[@phanxquang]

Hi Rob, I try to take rear-sync flash on Olympus E-M1 Mark III but I don’t think it can do it. Usually I do light painting photography in LiveComp and take long exposure around 8”, I want flash will flash before the end. I see Sony can do it. Thanks and great support

[@AnandaSim]

Page 86 in the manual. Or search for Flash Mode or Slow2

[@RobTrek]

Hi, Quang. The short answer is no. But I answered your question here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5allqZpp8aLoqc

[@phanxquang]

@@RobTrek thank you very much, I watched the video. Yes I do the same like you said but all by remotes: one for flash and one for camera. The reason I use remote because stay far from the camera to do light painting. Thanks for your time and great support

[@Master-tu4kd]

Hello Rob, I've heard that on the OM-D EM1 mk 1, the focus peaking doesn't work with vintage or, rather, with any non-electronic lens. Is this true, and if yes, then is there a way around it? I've just sold EM10 mk2 and was about to buy an EM1 mk1. Thank you.

[@RobTrek]

Sorry, I don't have an EM-1.1 to check for you. Maybe ask Peter Forsgard, he has one.

[@Master-tu4kd]

@@RobTrek Thanks for getting back to me, Rob. Yes I've watched his videos on the Em1 but I didn't think to ask him. Thanks, I'll check with him. 🙏

[@johnruciak]

With an adapted zoom, couldn't you have several entries at several lengths?

[@RobTrek]

You can. I think the limit is 9 or 10 entries.

[@peterwilson2588]

Hello Rob, Another brilliant interesting tutorial thanks. I have been an amateur photographer since the OM1 35mm SLR appeared giving you some idea I am an old fellow now. Along the way I had Nikon gear but their DSLR bricks eventually brought me back into the wonderful micro 4/3 world with E-M1s. On the topic I have various lenses from the past but am dead worried about fungus from one lens getting into the camera and "infecting" others. Is this an issue in your opinion. Many old SLR lenses have had poor treatment and storage and have some or a lot of fungus. My understanding is to stay well away from such lenses. For example in my mother in laws cupboard of photo gear was found a mint mechanically superb long Nikon lens but sadly faffected by fungus. Many thanks. Do you have a Patreon facility?

[@RobTrek]

I've not had to experience serious fungus issues. My understanding is to expose the fungus to UV light to kill it. That should stop any spreading. I've heard people putting their lenses by the window to expose them to sunlight. There are also uv lights you can buy. Also investing in a dry-cabinet should mitigate any new fungus growing. I really can't say more as I've not had to deal with this personally. I don't have patreon but do have a donation link here: robtrek.com/donate. Thanks!

[@jaymikejay8392]

I truly hope you see this but I have a EM10 ii and I’m using a MFT adapted 135mm f/2.8 prime lens for m4/3 but it doesn’t touch the pins and my screen stays black I don’t know what to do with

[@RobTrek]

Are you using a smart adapter or basic adapter. A basic adapter doesn't need the pins. Generally, a black screen means the adapter is not fully mounted. Make sure you twist it until you hear the locking pin on the camera mount click. Also, make sure you have the Release Without Lens set to YES.

[@jaymikejay8392]

@@RobTrekI am using a basic adapter and where would that setting be I can find it! Thank you!!

[@listonheinz9103]

Why can the EM1 mark iii only go to 6400 auto ISO? Seems weird to me, the budget cameras can go all the way to 25600.

[@RobTrek]

I've asked Olympus to change this. I guess if fell on deaf ears.

[@zoltanvarga1967]

💯❤❤❤❤❤💯

[@somewhereinocean7148]

i really don't get it why my vintage lens dont work in my dad em5 mark2 but,it work really well in my em 10 mark 2

[@RobTrek]

There should be no difference. When you say it doesn't work, do you mean you can't take pictures at all?

[@somewhereinocean7148]

@@RobTrek yes my dad wanted to take a picture with his vintage lens but it doesn't work,do you think other adapter can make difference since i want to buy another adapter for the em5 mark 2. also do you have good adapter recommendations for em5 mark 2 that not really expensive? Thanks

[@RobTrek]

@@somewhereinocean7148 It's most likely the locking pin on the camera lens mount is not engaging. Make sure you turn the adapter all the way until you hear a "click". Also, I found some adapters where the locking pin hole is not deep enough, so the camera doesn't think a lens is mounted.

[@m-clairequioc792]

no translation available too bad

[@RobTrek]

Sorry.