How to Add an Electrical Outlet for a Wall Mounted TV

Need to add an outlet above or below an existing outlet? This video explains how to do just that. This method does not require mudding, taping or painting. The gist of this is to run electricity from an existing outlet (by replacing the outlet with a new one) to a new outlet in the desired location. This project takes a little while but is worth doing.
Tools and supplies needed:
• Stud finder - Good (geni.us/TaNV9), Better: (geni.us/abGw), Best: (geni.us/dZxk)
• Outlet (geni.us/28dxL26) and Outlet Plate Cover (geni.us/EnXSI3)
• 2 x Single Gang Electrical Boxes for Old Work (geni.us/NBE1x)
• Several feet of 14-2 Romex cable (geni.us/jd5H9)
• Wire strippers (geni.us/oQb5Z)
• Wire cutters (geni.us/ET5uDzF)
• Drywall jab saw or utility knife (geni.us/Pk6BDB)
• Pry bar or large flat head screw driver (geni.us/15eiWP)
• Hack saw or reciprocating saw (to cut the nails) (geni.us/h9xBTc)
• Phillips screw driver (geni.us/FFO6qO)
Optional:
• Voltage tester (geni.us/CQJy)
• Electrical tape (geni.us/o0HF)
• Battery powered light/flash light (geni.us/0NnK)

[@Stac415]

I am a female in my 20’s and I did this project all by myself with your video. I didn’t have a reciprocating saw so I used a hack saw. Well, the hack saw was too big to fit within the square so I took off the blade and manually sawed the screws off. I would say the hardest part was trying to cram all the wires back into the gang box at the end. Haha. When I turned back on the power, I can’t believe that the outlet actually worked! Thank you!!! This probably saved me a bunch of $$ doing it myself.

[@hd40k55]

Wow so easy a "female in my 20s" could do it.

[@rickstarwars]

Bro, you have NO idea how awesome this video was. Electricians charging me an arm and a leg for this and I got it done in about 2 hrs and like $40 in supplies. Your video led me step by step. It was great! Thanks!!

[@Killo464]

+Sith Lord You got hosed lol. For an extra $8 you could have been done in 30 minutes or less. Should have gotten this ( Or spent $3 more for a second outlet, 2 Tvs in your future?) The only thing you've got to do is cut two holes, plug a connector in and screw in the plates. www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Recessed-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1455527205&sr=1-2&keywords=In-Wall+Cable+Management+System&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6150418011

[@Aaroonnnnnnn]

+Cody Sams That's $90 not 8

[@JulesBartow]

+Cody Sams +DIY Nils install is more betterer than your lame suggestion because he doesn't have a visible wire from the outlet to your recommended PowerBridge.

[@MrChris9830]

why dont you just put in plate that has a plug in yhe first place

[@joncandler4947]

more betterer? DIY English

[@kreativekonnectionzaudioan3077]

I watched this video in 2016 on how to add a outlet to behind my daughters TV. I’ve took that knowledge and built a empire 💪🏾

[@aquileggleston84]

"Not a professional electrician, just a guy that likes to figure it out.." Good stuff!!!👍🏽✊🔥

[@lolpump5594]

electricity is really easy honestly. white to white ground to ground black to black. as a handyman myself u can do anything by watching these videos but be cautious with panels and rough ins

[@JoeGreen03]

@@lolpump5594 does bunching up all the wiring when you put it back in the blue work box a fire hazard? What’s a safe way to do this?

[@lolpump5594]

@@JoeGreen03 if all your nuts are secure and your screws on ur switch or outlet are secure, you’ll have no problem as long as u have enough space

[@ibrazeau3044]

Good video. Two things to correct 1- the upper outlet Romex wire shield/protector has to be removed flush or nearly flush to box entry (1/4" or so passed the box retaining clip) so that the wire conductors are free of it within the box. 2- there has to be a minimum of 6" of wire conductors from the wire entry of the box. The wires you have in the upper box seem too short and the shield (white wire cover) was not removed at box entry (retaining clip). A tip - when the wires have been twisted together so as to put them in the wire nut, use cutters to clip off the most protruding wire (clip off the twisted wire ends). This will make it much easier, and a better shielding, when you put the wire nut on the wires.

[@LRN2DIY]

Great tips!

[@Unizap1]

Hire an Electrician. ⚡🔌💡

[@rononyourleftretired5144]

By way of suggestions: an electrician taught me that code inspectors (CA) look for at least 3 twists on wire splices. Also, when making wire loops to go around screws, the loop must be in the same direction as the screw tightens- to the right; the loop should allow for the entire screw to be exposed to bare wire only and not insulation; the loop should wrap all of the way around the screw, but not stick beyond the screw.

[@FrancoDFernando]

Thank you for this tip!

[@scoobums13]

Yup clockwise

[@jeremye4068]

Your video is still helping DIYers in 2022…thanks bro.

[@tishw7600]

This is by far the best video to show all of the detail for wiring the boxes together. I love how descriptive you were about everything. Thanks and keep up the good work guy thats not an electrician, but just want to get the job done. I'm highly impressed.

[@michaelbehm1256]

I’m a finish carpenter by trade and handy around my house and friends’ houses, but electrical work is one thing I was never willing to mess around with. This video is great! Really impressed with the simplicity, camera angles and info!

[@makincracksent]

Thank you!! I just watched the hiding wires video and this one and you just made my tv life so much better.

[@juliaannparisi1517]

omg Thanks for the awesome video. We live in my childhood (119 yrs old) home and needless to say not a lot of outlets. We are putting a wall mount on the wall for our TV and this is going to make my husband real happy, me too. And , now we will be able to add a few more in the other rooms. Thanks ever so much, Judi and Greg

[@flypipers3228]

Nicely done !! This is exactly what I need to do - for two new wall mounted TVs in our house. TVs are mounted but the dangling wire have to go. Thanks very much for your step x step instructions.

[@pmassee18]

Thanks for the clear step by step on this with the added up close footage of what you are tying together when,how,and why. Now off to instal my brand new outlet!

[@toriless]

No good for me, no socket below, except 6 feet away.

[@codyec]

I am a electrician never use the little holes on the back of the outlet always use the screws better connection and they won’t eventually wiggle loose start to spark

[@dh-1399]

I'm curious how do you feel about the ideal push connector ones? I just did one and kept the inbound circuit one 1 set of lugs and 3-way push connector'd the other set of lugs (with a little pigtail) to the original outbound circuit and up to the new outlet using those.

[@mathewshoyt1763]

i use the screws and do a couple wrap around the connectors with electrical tape

[@lolpump5594]

@@dh-1399 they work great for 15 and 20 amp circuits. don’t use for anything higher

[@TheYzeman]

I agree. I just bought a home that had an outlet stop working. I popped it out and to my dismay the push connections were being used. I'm slowly going through the house and fixing the connections. They're all done that way.

[@codyec]

CaptainYzerman for sure get them changed out there a thing of the past used to get houses wired faster.

[@jscaruth]

Awesome job Nils. VERY easy to understand and I'll be tackling this over the weekend as a result. Thanks.

[@jeddson]

This video was SUCH an amazing help in mounting my Frame TV with the one connect box hidden behind the tv. Couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you so much!

[@FixItYerself]

5:57 That use of a Harbor Freight wood blade on nails was impressive

[@Fe.Breezy]

FixItYerself yes, that was badass

[@lawrencewheeler8868]

Horror freight!!!

[@klantic2]

Thank you for this video. It's exactly what I needed to know. I highly appreciate the time you took to make this.

[@shawnhagen6871]

You never stop learning whether you’re a professional tradesmen or a professional homeowner! Good

[@KevinMahoney]

Thanks for this. Just what I was looking for. I really appreciated the close-ups when you reinstalled the lower outlet. I was unsure how to handle hooking all the wires back up.

[@AvgJoeWatchReviews]

This video was exactly what I needed. Perfect! Thank you sir.

[@clininemills3059]

I've been wondering how to do something like this. Now I know. great video!! That's better than most of the kits on the market.

[@JOSHIMEOW]

Wanker

[@anthonymontoya557]

Kits are garbage... use the real stuff like him!

[@JulianGarrett]

Thank you for this information. This has made my head stop spinning and I’m more confident on mounting our television. I’m grateful for you sharing this video.

[@TheSighphiguy]

i watched one of these vids yesterday with a so-called "pro" that butchered the drywall and STILL had the nerve to be proud of his work and post it.

[@DavidGarcia-fb9ht]

Lol. The audacity!

[@JordanRae]

I'm in school taking electrical right now, and even though you say your not an electrician, you seem to know what your doing really well!

[@prodigy2k7]

hes okay, (no offense channel owner) he didn't really do anything wrong but he just doesn't know the tricks of the trade to make things go faster or easier.

[@JordanRae]

True, I'm just saying for some guy with no schooling, he is pretty good

[@patrickkirwan3696]

Just make a hole in the top of the existing box, push your fish tape up the wall, tie a string to it, pull it down through your existing box, use it to pull up your new wire, and then attach it to the side screws on the existing outlet (No need to remove the wires like you did). Reinstall that outlet just like it was, and then do the top part just as you did. Done in half the time, and no sheetrock damage like you had.

[@TheActsofkindness]

Thanks buddy… you are so right, it’s faster and easier with less tools too…👍

[@genebeckley5189]

Yes you explained it a better on the procedure save yourself installing 2 rework boxes just one. And the little tear out of Sheetrock he did pulling out the existing box no need for that extra work

[@billlowe6762]

As soon as he started to remove the original box I was like no no no. I'm not an electrican and was looking for how to add the new wire. I would cut the new hole for the new box and push the new wire up from existing box until you can find it in the new hole. A little harder if it has insulation or a fire block but most of the time it it clear. He made it twice a hard.

[@jlindy73]

I did hear though you wouldn't want to add new wires to outlet box. Pig tail is correct

[@mohammadabrahim6517]

0:37 Buddy

[@RoastBeefSandwich]

Great work, that’s exactly how I do it as well. Only thing is in my area, code requires that the Ground pin of the outlet be facing up if the outlet is high on the wall. So essentially I have to mount these outlets upside down. Other than that it’s a great job, and a good project for a DIY-minded homeowner like me to do.

[@1homemademom]

i love this channel since everyone is jumping in to help so overall its even better!

[@SteveBoyer10]

Love this. Thanks, man, for sharing what you know!

[@rayl5074]

this was very informative and straight forward, thanks! keep up the great work!

[@Slimmy531]

Thanks for the great tutorial. It took me a lot longer than it should have but I got the job done. Thanks Again.

[@JohnDoe-up5sl]

Thanks for this! I'm buying a new place soon and I have been putting together a list of things I want to do and can do myself. This is exactly the quality of video that gives me the confidence to save money and just do it myself. Thanks and keep up the fantastic work!

[@toriless]

Make sure you know where existing wire and pipes are, there could and been a pipe behind where he wanted to place the new outlet. Instant flood!!, get a plumber to repair it, etc. A big mess

[@mtchnelson]

Just bought my first house-your videos are super helpful! You got a new subscriber!

[@JCMeyer]

Nils! Very informative. Now I can start my project with a little more confidence thanks dude.

[@derekddurbin]

no man you did a good job. clean install glad to see someone fix a mistake and take time to look up the code.

[@myavatarisalive]

Very clear, easy to understand, and thoroughly explained. Thanks so much!

[@MzMary801]

Never been more excited to try a tutorial. Thank you!

[@stevenmitchell5612]

This guy doesn’t know what he’s doing! He ruined the hole removing the box. The new box will pull out of the wall when you remove a cord. You can’t see that on the video but it is the case. Also,there’s a lot of information he skips over. If you aren’t well versed in electrical work, be very careful.just because it works when your done,that doesn’t mean it is safe!

[@DoctorBlankenstein]

I did this yesterday, although I wound up not needing to run any cable (only extend some that was already running down the beam my new outlet was going on, coming from the outlet below it)... your video was SUPER HELPFUL! Thanks for posting, very easy to follow. 100 thumbs up! Luckily finding the already existing wire saved me any fire block issues, my big worry when starting the job.

[@toriless]

My nearest socket is 6 feet away, this did me no good.

[@scottbailey2610]

Revisited this video because you did a great job of explaining the wiring process. I watched the first time to wire my tv and now will be using basically the same method to install some bedroom scones. Thanks again!

[@toriless]

as long as the are located over a socket, how will you power them off though?

[@karenkempf4976]

This is perfect! I'm needing to move up electrical outlets for an addition kitchenette in basement. Need them counter height. This should work great!

[@moreno6417]

Great video! I've been meaning to try it out but thought it was out of my league, keep the vids comming

[@123villecard]

Awesome video. Thanks, I was about to run an extension cord for my tv through my wall and so glad I stopped and thought it over.

[@chopperg9443]

Excellent job on the video. You've answered all my questions. Now I can start my project.

[@ironhorsegladiator5034]

Great tip that can save most people over $500. The question I have is, based on the UBC, I was told by a general contractor that a city permit is required to add an electric box like you did here, I am in California and we have so many nonsense laws. Thanks

[@dansanger5340]

Excellent video! Like you I'm not an electrician, but thought you did a great job. You might want to point out why you did some of the things the way you did. You might want to emphasize the importance of using the proper gauge wire for the circuit. If it's a 20 amp circuit, use 12/2, and if it's a 15 amp circuit, use 14/2. One exception I make is if it's a 15 amp circuit and the existing wiring is already 12/2, it's best to stay consistent and also use 12/2, just in case someone down the road decides to live dangerously and change to a higher capacity breaker. Also, you might want to point out that the reason you were pigtailing the short segments of wire using wire nuts is because you're only supposed to put one conductor max under each screw, unless the receptacle is specifically built for it. Putting more than one wire under a screw might work for a while, but it's not to code , reason being that it does not create a reliable connection and could stop working a few years down the road. Worse, it might start arcing inside the junction box, which can generate a lot of heat, with very unhappy results (the reason for AFCI breakers, which trip if an arc is detected on a circuit). Lastly, I noticed that you shied away from the push-in connectors. I've had bad experiences with them myself, which is why I always use the screws. They are supposedly reliable with 14 gauge wire, but got a bad reputation years ago after people pushed 12 gauge wire into them, resulting in unreliable connections. The push connector holes on new outlets won't even allow 12 gauge wire to be inserted. I wouldn't risk it even with 14 gauge wire.

[@prodigy2k7]

Very well said for not an electrician, good comment

[@shanetho2865]

Dan Sanger push in connectors are perfectly safe, IF done right. and using heavier gauge wire isn't as dangerous as under gauge, but still shouldn't be done. breakers, wire, and receptacles ships all stay consistent. speaking of dangerous and codes, user should really find out what is on each circuit being as most codes have a limit as to how many outlets and\or lights and appliances are allowed per circuit. the easiest way is to shut off all circuits until you leaving the circuit on for the outlet you'll be toying with. then check EVERY outlet and light. even in other rooms especially in older houses.

[@dansanger5340]

Shane Tho You're probably right about push connectors being fine. As a landlord, I just became paranoid about them after several times having to track down intermittent connections in wall outlets, which turned out to be caused by bad connections at push connectors. However, in every case, someone had used 12-gauge wire on a 14-gauge push connector. My understanding is that they are reliable when used correctly.

[@shanetho2865]

Dan Sanger I understand that completely, I recently renovated part of my house, I didn't use push connectors lol pig tails and screw mounts, push connectors should really only be used by professionals, because they do need to be used properly, another quick tip from my uncle who is actually an electrician was to wrap the outlet in black tape to prevent any kind of Arc or accident.

[@thatchicknyc3606]

Do you mean the outlet box itself?

[@niseytimo3107]

My tv guy did this exactly and I’ve been curious as to how he did it for years. My husband and I receive so many compliments on our 65 inch tv mount.

[@robertpdxusa]

Thank you very much for taking time out to share this project on KZbin!

[@luiszimbron2]

Just did this with your video. $40. Wire was the most expensive thing. Thanks! 😎🤙🏼

[@soonicevery]

Electrical codes are found in your most current National Electrical Code book which is also Chapter 70 of the National Fire Protection Agency code. They are safety protocols for personnel protection as well as fire protection. Your T.v. power cord cannot be installed in your wall because the cord is not rated for concealed installation, such as the Non-metallic cable (Romex) that is us modernly used for residential wiring. Also required is a minimum of 6" of stripped wire from the back of your junction box toward the front. You can search online for Section 400.8 of the NEC or simply find an electrical forum and research your question. Another method is to web search or download your local state specialty code for information. All in all, nice work man.

[@danp3068]

Josh Dickie Is there not a requirement for a strain relief for the cable on the stud within 6 inches from the box?

[@prodigy2k7]

You obviously cant do that with this type of installation. That is for new construction installs

[@fd3871]

@@danp3068 old work is exempt, but the compression type box entry provides some strain relief

[@ismael316]

Imo you did a good job. I also try to do things myself around my house. Good job bro. New sub.

[@Rickster8560]

Great job explaining and demonstrating your skills!

[@markhansen5091]

Outstanding instruction for a DIY job. Very well done.

[@JoseMeza-qn7yn]

Your instructions are incredibly easy to follow, I'm planning on doing this power extension soon. Thank you!

[@toriless]

Do not pigtail, sockets have two screws on each side!

[@Oneklickmedia]

⁠​⁠@@toriless was told pig tail is best to prevent over heating outlet. Also user above, don’t use extension wires behind wall

[@47f0]

One - a little caution cutting out the top receptacle hole - if it's directly above an existing outlet, there are possibly wires behind the new receptacle hole. I've seen construction where wiring is run up from a crawl space, down from the attic, and even some wired horizontally, outlet to outlet within a room, drilling through the studs. It just depends. Two - If your home is wired from above, depending what type of existing outlet box you have, if you can see a wire behind the new receptacle hole, it may be possible to pull an old wire out of that old box, drawing it up through the new receptacle hole - after first connecting a length of new wire to pull up through the existing box. So you have an old wire which you cut at the new receptacle hole, and new wire running down from the new receptacle location to the existing receptacle box. Again, this is a tough pull with those plastic tab boxes, Metal boxes with screw in strain clamps are an easier pull. This method shortcuts having to cut the old receptacle box out, fish the new wire (since it's pulled up by the existing wire), and you don't have three sets of wire coming into one receptacle box. (In a perfect world, they would have left you a foot of slack of old wire in the wall - you could just pull out the slack, cut, strip and connect in the new outlet. There is no perfect world, so to get enough slack, new wire is going to be involved either way)

[@dinohomsey4905]

Seriously?!?! If a home is "Wired Correctly", there would be NO WAY to use the old wire as a pull string. The wire must be stapled at 6-12 inches from the existing box by code. There would also be multiple staples along that wire run to keep wire from being damaged by dry wallers', insulaters' and to keep wire run tucked neatly in wall cavity. Multiple wires tell you that you have a feed wire and the other wire/s going to another outlet or light switch. So Pig tailing the wires as he showed is the way to do it. A bit more length 6-7 inches neatly pushed in accordion like to allow for future work or repairs. As far as the new box goes, to replace old, personally instead of cutting out and installing a new one, you just drill a small hole into existing box to use to feed new wire. Just shoving the wire in as demonstrated could cause a short with the bare ground wire being moved towards the power side of outlet. Ground should be placed into back of box, then the neutral and lastly the positive or hot lead.

[@salbashi6749]

This is by far the best video. thank you so much for a job well done. now wish me luck with my install.

[@JoeBandyvoicetalent]

Great Vid... Walked me right through running a new outlet for my flat screen and it looks great....

[@spagamoto]

Now this is how you handle constructive criticism. Subbed.

[@cliftt]

Spag, Ditto.

[@fredj9941]

you could have wired all three romex directly to the plug, faster easier more reliable. Also, before cutting the sheetrock it is best to mark the box with a level to make sure your cuts are level and squared. Always try to avoid installing any boxes sideways or at a different height than the existing outlets (looks very unprofessional). Other than that i would say this is one of the better videos on this subject.

[@unitycatalog]

Could you elaborate on the wiring a bit

[@giovanig89]

@@unitycatalog he means that it would've been a stronger connection if he would've just connected the three new romex cables coming from the top outlet directly to the bottom outlet, onto two of the four screws plus ground on the bottom outlet. obviously at that point the bottom outlet would only be running off of only one black, white, and ground wire as opposed to the two sets it was running off in the beginning of the video. doing this method would also require you to pigtail the two ground wires (the ground from the bottom outlet & new ground from top outlet) and then land 1 wire onto the grounding screw on bottom outlet. after that you're set, no need to pigtail the extra short piece like this guy did in the video

[@HBSuccess]

NO. It is not good practice to use devices as junctions for a number of reasons. The correct way to wire that is with a pigtail to the device, exactly as shown.

[@MUSCGamecock]

Absolutely not "more reliable". Also not to code.

[@toriless]

There is also a minimum height wall plugs can be, I do not know it so I just set new one as the same height as existing one, 11" is what I just measured.

[@Johnny-xj5qu]

I’ve been using the “Power Bridge” for a couple years now, and I’m regretting my fear of working with Romex. This is so much more of a clean install

[@eyadoweis]

this is exactly what i needed to know...great video. saved me the headache of drywall patching and taping. thanks

[@raycaballero6386]

Cool you simplified everything to my puny skill set

[@raycaballero6386]

Yes

[@GaryVerderamo]

For anyone out there, like me, who doesn't have a drywall saw or even a box cutter, a serrated steak knife will cut through drywall.

[@noelvega2701]

you cheap bastard!!! buy one.

[@397coney7]

If you're married, your wife would kill you, dead.

[@adamslagle9171]

You freakin peasant. A utility knife is like a buck on Amazon. 🤭

[@MoparGuy1625]

Right tool for the right job. Stupid fuck.

[@bogdan5432]

Miracle Blade knives?

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey Jonah, I can't seem to reply to your comment so I'm trying a new post but the answer is that it's more about safety. I don't think it's likely that this will make a huge difference in fire prevention, but it could. That's why this code exists. Also, if, by some chance, a fire was started in your wall and it as discovered that the wiring wasn't up to code, it might not be covered by insurance.

[@mitchellgreig8442]

DIY Nils no he be found guilty and charged possible jail time

[@shanetho2865]

DIY Nils I'm not sure what you just did is up to code, in my area wire staples within 6 inches of the box and ever foot after that are needed. also 4 inches of slack within the box

[@jaystus]

Thats usually just for new construction. This would not fall under that code part.

[@handymadness]

Jaystus is correct, otherwise, no one would ever be able to put in an old work box without cutting the drywall to use new work boxes.

[@mikepadon4931]

i wonder if you foamed the other boxes should meet code then, its more then likely a draft stop issue.

[@devonlovell9906]

great job helped me out alot I know how to connect the wired but I would of actually cut into the drywall and had to tap and paint all over so your video saved me the extra work thank you

[@Thatkidnextdoo17]

Thank you for this video. Love the fact is step by step. Thank You!

[@LRN2DIY]

Derek (I'm not sure how to reply to your comment - it doesn't give me the option), if that's an option for you, then definitely go for it. I didn't have that option because I had to remove the outlet box, which meant unplugging everything. When putting it back together, you could definitely use both the screws and the rear inputs - yes.

[@Aaroonnnnnnn]

+Nils Rasmusson isnt the wire from the first outlet to the second outlet a high voltage wire too, so wouldn't this be against code? or is it just against code to run the high voltage wire WITH the other ones?

[@rcjoseb]

+Aa ron The type of cable that can be run within walls depends on the local building codes. Some local codes require what is called Armor Clad cable which is electrical wire covered in a protective metal housing while others allow for Romex, which is what he used in the video. If his local code where he lives allows Romex, then what he used is completely legal. What is definitely illegal in all local codes is to run extension cords or the actual cords that run from the appliance through the wall. These wires are meant to be run only outside of the wall. I hope this helps. BTW Nils, great video!

[@Aaroonnnnnnn]

***** Oh ok thanks this helps a bunch!

[@benefactionhindrance]

“I want to be careful not to mess up the drywall” Procedes to mess up the drywall.

[@vwbike]

Okay captain obvious

[@benefactionhindrance]

@@vwbike Ok boomer

[@ideal_installations]

We were wonder did any one else catch this. 😂 Still a good video though.

[@staianoa]

If you push the old box back into the wall (instead of trying to pull it out) it's much less likely that you'll mess up the drywall. This is how I always do it.

[@eMpTyStudio1]

Nice job. Might have wanted to wire nut all like wires together and then secure the pigtail to the outlet screws. Not sure putting some on a pigtail and another on the device screws meets code. I"m sure others found the video helpful also. Thanks for sharing your ideas.

[@diegocj5]

Thank you so much for sharing! Just did mine and everything is working!

[@lastchance8142]

Two things required by code. 1) All neutrals and all grounds should be tied together with just one pigtail each left for the outlet. 2) Wires entering the box should be pulled in far enough so that the outer jacket enters the box by at least 1/2".

[@toriless]

He did not even need to to any of that mess, any dual socket has two screws in each side, just attach the second line to it. Every socket in circuit should be like that. He is just created a whole slew of potential failure point by doing the huge mess. People, IGNORE his pigtail garbage!! This is not a switch, no competent person would pigtail an outlet. Even a switched one, which uses a second line to switch an outlet or you can switch both with a single line but I have not seen that done. Quite frankly smart sockets and switches have made three / four way wiring and switched socket useless. I undid mine.

[@Jongraphs8600]

That’s what she said

[@Unizap1]

Hire an Electrician. ⚡🔌💡

[@_68niou1]

Is that NEC or local? Why can't the neutrals be connected to the two outlet terminals like he does?

[@lastchance8142]

@@_68niou1 If more than two cables enter the box, all neutrals shall be tied together with a pigtail for the outlet(s). Just two entering is ok to use just the outlet.

[@szargos]

Dude, I don't know how long you left those holes open, but there is a huge rat i see crawling around at 12:57!

[@LRN2DIY]

You should see her when she's shaved. But alas, the kids love the huge rat so she remains and is coddled.

[@cliftt]

szargos, LoL.

[@TheDez1991]

Lol... I thought i going see a rat but thats dog.

[@ADRiley1]

Hahahaha

[@samjg1]

glad to see you doing it the right way! Nice work.

[@OneDrumBum]

Great instructional, very clear and well spoken. THX

[@electriciantv5174]

As an electrician I’m gonna say that a multi meter is in no way optional you need something to tell you what’s going on in your Circuit no matter what

[@JS-rp7qb]

A multimeter for running an extension outlet? Why? Not trying to be a dick, I’ve just never used one for this, nor for changing out outlets and switches.

[@fritzgolden6237]

You notice? It's the free one from Harbor Freight.

[@electriciantv5174]

Fritz Golden I didn’t, all Ik is that you need a meter for any electrical project

[@DrugsAreBadUmmmKay]

@@JS-rp7qb, because there are situations in which there are multiple hot wires inside of a single box. Never assume there is only one!!

[@prodigy2k7]

WOW you removed the old box from the wall?!?!?! Ive never done that. Ive always used the existing box, use a fish tape to go up/down the wall to new box location and pull in new wire.

[@GhostHostMemories]

I was going to ask the same thing.

[@shwndh]

Yea, he jacked up the sheet rock pulling that old box out. That’s what I’m afraid of.

[@saliston]

It can be done both ways. But I would have kept the old box if possible

[@willsanford6706]

saliston how would you get the new wire through the old box if both top holes already have wires coming through them?

[@fd3871]

@@willsanford6706 that is a tricky one, technically 2 wires can be in each of those holes. if you have a box with knockouts (mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/034481/034481100256.jpg) it is easy to pull a wire through if you have a box with compression connections (mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/034481/034481100157.jpg) it is difficult because the wire has to go through from the back, or you have to pull the compression area with a plier to feed the wire through. you could always drill a hole in the top or side (one side is against a stud but the other isn't) of the box near the back being careful not to damage any wires. Either way it'll take time but isn't that hard.

[@MoneyAhoy]

That was really helpful Nils - thanks! I have always wondered how to do this. It seems simple enough.

[@arrow-flight]

Thanks for this video. I followed your lead and got the job done. It looks great!

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Great video. I think the wire nut is supposed to twist the wires hence they don't have to be twisted before hand together which actually can rupture the wires while you twist the wire nut.

[@tommytomtomtomestini3894]

That is correct, you are not supposed to twist them as the cap itself will twist them a little bit and grab hold of the wires. I would suggest a "wago clip" instead though, easy to work with and can be removed easily if needed.

[@Johndoe-yf5sv]

Cyril Azoulay to put u straight solid wire needs to be spliced by hand only stranded wire can be spliced together with the wire nut fyi.using the wire nut to splice your solid wire together is a hazard because over time the solid wire will become lose cause over time the wire nut because weak from the heat that is caused from the electric passing throw it so make make sure u do what I say otherwise you'll have arking and then a fire.

[@Johndoe-yf5sv]

John Doe yea only for stranded wire

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Good clarification thank you

[@jroark101]

2FishOneRod killer help me understand. So for this type of wire this guy is using should I hand splice before applying wire nut on all the wires or just the ground wire? Is this wire solid or stranded?

[@luvdady]

i really dont understand why you cut out the bottom box? there are tabs yes it is a tad pain in the arse to fish but even so its a lot easier than sawzalling the wall to pieces

[@skyandboss]

So he didn't have to cut out the box at the bottom ?

[@luvdady]

@@skyandboss yeah majority of plastic boxes have 2 flaps top /bottom to add wires. A little persuasion with a screwdriver bend the flaps and run the new wire

[@dannytheman2217]

It makes fishing the wires a lot easier

[@luvdady]

@@dannytheman2217 yeah but the time saved fishing is counter productive to the time cutting/patching etc...

[@dannytheman2217]

luvdady he had to patch it? Thought he just put the cover over it. Well i guess i would just use a glowrod starting at the existing box and fishing at the new outlet

[@Taylor_Brooke]

Bro, Thank you! Your video is very easy to follow and very instructional. I followed it step by step and when I plugged in something to test it, I screamed when that light came on! haha It was a great feeling. Thank you for this! U R AWESOME!

[@nemesis51882]

Thanks for this video. I was wondering how to tie the romex into the existing wiring. Now I know exactly what to do

[@joefuentez7232]

I'm wondering why you reconnected the wire to a new receptacle and pigtailed it versus just leaving the wire connected to the friction connections and run the new cable to the screws..?

[@Nathan-gi9mm]

Joe Fuentez To comply with code most likely. It’s code where I am

[@Ed-px6ro]

Never heard of a pigtail code before but each state is different. Terminating at the screws is the preferred method, the pressure clips tend to fail over time. Commonly see in townhomes and condos where the electricians are in a rush to get to the next one in line.

[@mattheweden8473]

Putting wires into the back of receptacles is asking for it to catch on fire. The spring clips in the back of plug get loose and cause heat which can lead to fires. Using pigtails to the screw terminals on is the best method. That way your not running the current of the whole circuit through the plug, just the current of the receptacle in question.

[@techmap4191]

at about 46 seconds into this video it shows my exact dilemma where you have two outlets on either side of the console table but I don't have one directly in the middle like you do.

[@prodigy2k7]

Easy way is go into the attic and drop a wire down the wall (You need a drill a hole in the top plate in the attic)

[@LadyLawJHF]

Thank you! I have the issue of two different cables feeding to the current box and trying to tie a third line in. Your tutorial helped! Now my dilemma is that this house is using about 10 gauge wires that I have to try and straighten out to connect the lines and I am using 14 guage on the tie in.

[@TheLameTV]

dude this is so helpful, thank you so much i really appreciate your passe in your videos

[@PianoSoulos]

To remove the existing box, bend the screwdriver towards the box, not towards the drywall, that's why you messed it up.

[@muffinhater69]

PianoSoulos good call

[@A-bone]

Lol I was thinking the same thing as he was doing it I was like “bro you’re doing it all wrong!” Lol

[@lemmy999]

Also, using a reciprocating saw makes it easy to damage things too. I just use one of those hacksaw blade holders and put the blade in there and cut the nails.

[@32toddv]

@@lemmy999 I've always used the existing outlet box, and just ran the new romex through a existing popout in the box.

[@Eric-ox5iu]

Todd Vernon did you use fish tape to run it to another location? What’s the method there?

[@jkustockaphobia2421]

You don’t have to remove the existing box .. just fish your new wire thru the top of box where the existing wires are coming thru

[@MrAlchurro]

@@SCP--nx6kk the 3 way splicing is unnecessary. If one of the silver terminals on the outlet is powered, so is the other one. Theres a jumper between each pair of terminals (brass and silver). The third wire is redundant and could have just been how he was taught to do it.

[@theyluvloki]

It will technically work without "pigtailing" (3 way splicing with a wire nut) but it might not be up to electrical code or could have issues if the outlet fails. Pigtailing is the proper way to do it.

[@TravisKlein1]

@@MrAlchurro incorrect, 3rd wire is not redundant. It creates a true parallel circuit for the 2 outlets

[@duanewilliams9106]

@@SCP--nx6kk lk0no j8 hivuvh

[@DJaquithFL]

I just drilled a hole through the side of the original box and though the 2x4, used the side terminals on the receptacle, and pulled Romex to an "old job" single gang box. Total time less than 30 minutes .. spent more time trying to decide where I wanted the receptacle. My 2¢ .. put it above the wall mount given the choice.

[@triplelowman]

Thanks man! Dumbed down to my level superbly!

[@Tithulta1]

Excellent video, will keep it in mind for whenever I decide to hide wires.

[@REVerbtalk]

For those getting started working on electrical. Not all reciprocals are going to be "Brass/Silver/Green". Not all of them will be right side up as well... Not all houses are "up to code". To have a better mindset over the wiring before you blast yourself away or your clients house goes down in flames. N - Neutral(White) PG - Ground Wire(Bare or sometimes green) B - Hot Lead(Black) R = 2nd Hot Wire/Accessory B goes right - Smaller Rectangle N goes left - Larger Rectangle B should be Right side so the grounded "circle" is below the rectangles and not above Yes US base for ease of installation it's "Brass/Silver/Green" but not every house will be color coded so know the basic wires and not just the colors. You'll walk into a old house and it's all brown wiring and you'll see a white that's actually hot wire and not neutral then you have to backtrace the wiring. Older homes ALWAYS volt check which side is which so you at least know it's right and if not, make a note and let the customer know. All that unnecessary plug box pulling is nothing but added cost and risk. Leave the old box in unless it's so frayed you have to. Just drill a hole and fish OR there are tabs on the old boxes as well but hey, you are updating, no shade there and I guess I take it back lol. I saw your holes you did denting the drywall when you were prying. NEVER pry drywall side, pry back towards the box. Soo as you said "Here's the plate I put back on" ... All i saw was holes, now you have a paid drywall and paint job. Just giving a bit of tips for those coming to the video. Good stuff overall man... I subbed

[@willg8796]

I’m confused. What’s the point of the “three-way” connector? Why not just attach the new Romex DIRECTLY to one of the screws that isn’t being used???

[@LRN2DIY]

​@Ayden Jessee If you look closely, there are actually three sets of wires. One coming into the box (the source), one going out to the next outlet in the run and we added a third for the upper outlet. With just two screws for positive and two for neutral, we needed to pigtail the wires.

[@erlefajardo5568]

@@LRN2DIY Question about pigtails. So your original outlet had one source set of wires, one load set of wires and you added a second load set of wires. I assume you're pigtailing the second load, right? Are you pigtailing the second load to the source?

[@matthewleehess]

Appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Very informative.

[@BeerkegGarage]

I'm glad you explained about the second outlet having 2 screws and not having to worry about connecting to them both thank you

[@danminchico]

I’m still confused by this? How does it power both?

[@BeerkegGarage]

@@danminchico thats just the way they work, the other side i believe is a leg that you can wire to another outlet

[@Dara-hx2pt]

very good job bro. But you're lucky because the old outlet is straight down under the TV. my outlet is alittle off to the left, there is two studs in the way, and I don't know how to run the wires through the studs. Do you have any idea?

[@erbgrant]

+Dara Nguon Same Problem..

[@PianoSoulos]

Why don't you move your wall mount center to the existing outlet? You have to tie the wall mount to a stud, right above where the outlet is, so I don't understand how it would not already be above the outlet.

[@seventyfive1]

You have to cut a "pumpkin hole" in the drywall and then drill a hole in the stud. good luck!

[@lostperfection05]

At Lowes I've seen drill bits for this very purpose, sold right next to the fish tapes and other things of this nature. These bits are very long, like up to 5 or 6 feet and are flexible and bend to a certain degree like a long thin piece of metal would. The purpose being that you put it in the hole you make for the plug and drill through the studs sideways/diagonal, it looks tricky. That was what the label showed them doing with it so I'm not guessing. I have the same issue, but I'm opting for running the wire up to the attic space and back down to one of the plugs, figured it might be easier and less messy. I just need to go up there and verify that I can access it easier from up there(by drilling a big hole in the top plate.) Maybe I'll look into this pumpkin hole method mentioned here too.

[@fishfrompluto]

I had the same problem. I used a power inlet at the bottom (right below the tv mount) connecting to the power outlet behind the tv through the drywall. The inlet (and circuit to the outlet behind tv) is dead until connected by a male to female power cord from existing outlet (far away) to the inlet. Sorta like an extension cord setup. also there are expensive kits available for the same setup. search for power jumper or powerbridge. Saved a lot of headache drilling through studs and such.

[@derekwest2160]

Why not just connect the new line to the screw terminals on the existing socket, and leave the original wiring plugged into the back?

[@tedburkholder8156]

That's exactly what I did. That way you're not doing the extra work & tucking in that extra wire & wire nuts.

[@dynomax666]

there was 3 wires. this is not how it would be done if wired new, but it would work alright enough.

[@templebrown7179]

Could have fished the new wire in the existing 1 gang box he had instead of cutting the nails and all that drama.

[@Nathan-gi9mm]

To meet current code you should only have one black wire and one white wire joined to the outlet. You are not supposed to use the receptacle as a way to join multiple wires. That’s what a certified electrician told me about a month ago.

[@PB_French_Fries]

Ignes Andros you know how hard it is to fish a cord through a hole in the wall and then precisely fish it through a 1/2 inch slot in a box?

[@mikenorris4966]

You can also buy "pigtails" that have a connector if you don't feel comfortable or just don't have extra wire to make them. Great video

[@dinir1191]

Thanks for the great video. You helped me out with my project. One thing I realized while adding my outlet behind the TV was that I lost my surge protector. I ended up buying a surge supressing outlet from Home Depot for around $25. I wanted the protection for my TV and sound bar. Thanks again. Great video

[@wlipman]

If you took the time to determine the load and the line terminals on your surge suppression outlet, you can confer surge suppression on the outlets downstream from it, and save the $25.

[@toriless]

Yeah, I would also keep everything but the TV and a surge protector as well. I lost a whole bunch of cooler when I have several brownout flashes in a row. They were not on such a unit. Needless to say I put the surviving units on one as well as any replacement units. I use UPS for my critical equipment. I can have internet with a power outage and same to the LAN. All lower power devices that can run for hours. I use a laptop so that runs too.

[@ChrisXCXCX]

why did you take the old box out? I believe you can shoot back up through the box to hook new outlet up....

[@prodigy2k7]

Its fairly easy, with a fishtape

[@darkideon]

+prodigy2k7 what's a fish tape? I'm not from the US and will like to try it your way.

[@prodigy2k7]

+Víctor Mendoza it's a metal wire that is stiff/sturdy that comes on a reel. For example it's commonly used to pull wire through a conduit. You can buy short reels of fish tapes at most stores that have electrical departments. You can use fish sticks too. Same aisle.

[@darkideon]

+prodigy2k7 oh thanks man, I actually have one of those :P

[@soytupadre7887]

so how you get wire in to the old box without taking it out?

[@donaldhester9952]

There really is much more to know before performing any electrical work. Before anyone does this you better understand what electrical code cycle you are on. You may need a permit to do this because you may also need to add AFCI protection (for a circuit modification). The receptacle most likely will need to be tamper resistant also. You have to make sure that your cable sheathing is into the box. Side note those backstabbed outlets really are cheap and really should never be used even though they are code compliant. There are much better side clamp receptacles that are available.

[@mikenorris4966]

+Donald Hester Spoken like a true electrician..... just saying

[@prodigy2k7]

AFCI is a joke imo, just a way for them to many money.

[@SusanKay-]

Donald Hester This is why, when I saw the box pulled out of the wall, I thot, "Whoa, I need to call a real electrician for this!" - preferably Union, too! Thanx!

[@apokalypz08]

+prodigy2k7 will keep your house from burning down when your wife jams the dresser against the wall, breaking the outlet that the lamp is plugged into, and then a short causes a fire.

[@leonardholt5311]

Susan Kay union electricians don’t do residential service work

[@cyberzombie100]

Thanks for the video, it helped a lot. The only thing I did different was not remove and replace the lower box. I just fished another wire through the existing box. Nice job.

[@LRN2DIY]

That's awesome! Way to go!

[@catovideo1]

I think u did great job,simple process..STEP BY STEP..PERFECTION,thanks BRO..AWESOME WORK..