3 Ways to Add an Outlet In a Finished Room

You can add an outlet or receptacle to any finished wall or room with these three methods! Please not that this applies to drywall only. #outlet #electrical #wiring
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00:00 Method 1: Behind Baseboard
11:20 Method 2: Through the Attic or Crawlspace
18:26 Method 3: Drywall Strip

[@hiiamhuman771]

this is in branzys playlist

[@Bigfoot14000]

A tip for you: Don't remove the coil of Romex from its plastic packaging, as you did in the video. Instead, leave it in the plastic and pull cable from the center of the coil. This keeps the coil neat and untangled.

[@LRN2DIY]

Yeah, I had it in there for a months but it kept coming out so I just gave up eventually. I'm just waiting for the first big knot to show up and I'll have to spend an hour figuring it out. Fingers crossed that doesn't happen.

[@TomCee53]

This is a personal choice. I’ve had very little problem with coils of wire not in the plastic package. In fact, my preferred method is to remove the plastic package and roll out the wire smoothly from the outside as opposed to pulling from the inside where it will twist with every turn. My preference is that the wires look smooth as they are stapled to the ceiling or pulled through holes in floor joists.

[@heathenkill1]

Yes it works well like that.

[@k2line706]

Lol horrible tip. Now you have massively twisted wire.

[@jovetj]

And always wire outlets with 12 AWG.

[@andyd3063]

I am grateful for all of your clear, detailed videos, especially when you offer up a few options since I always expect my situation to not be identical to the lone approach presented. If I'm honest, I sometimes feel overwhelmed by a "how in the heck will I do X without cutting 17 holes in the drywall?!" fear and your approaches are well thought out and minimally disruptive and counter that for me, so thank you! (Also, I've been hacking away at electrical stuff in my house for a couple decades and until you casually mentioned it, it never dawned on me how pigtailing in new outlets keeps the circuit working even if that outlet fails! Thanks, too, for sharing that!)

[@BlackSmokeDMax]

Props for showing your "ooops!" and not cutting that out, and just moving to a different outlet and starting over.

[@crabwalk7773]

I am glad you covered the options together - made for a comprehensive video. Thank you.

[@Jwaxenbaum602]

This has to be the most thoroughly explained, clear and well put together instructional house DIY video I've ever seen.

[@miguelperez2369]

Your first method is my go-to every time.

[@foesfly3047]

You really are so good at this. Your trade methods and craftsmanship are excellent, your scripting and video techniques and editing are also exceptional and your presentation is so good in every way- appearance, verbal delivery and manner; you’re just very relatable- and to a broad audience, I believe. Thanks for doing what you do.

[@LRN2DIY]

Wow - that's so very kind of you! Thank you so much and have an awesome day!

[@bcmiller1100]

"i'll head up into the attic which is approximately 4621 degrees" 😂😂

[@user-ol8zt5ep6u]

Homesickness became contagious in the young campers' cabin.

[@theMightyWhytey]

Thumbs up for giving the thumbs up for past Nils… that guy deserves it

[@llapmsp]

Excellent video on three great ways to do additions in wiring. Thanks for sharing.

[@vendright]

Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to do this

[@keithfailmezger1596]

another good trick to know where to drill in the attic .. is to take a coat hanger and straighten it out , then use a drill and put one end in the drill and go up next to the wall where you need to drill and drill that coat hanger up in the ceiling next to the wall , when you go up in the attic you can see the two feet of coat hanger sticking up through the insulation ,, it leave such a tiny hole when done

[@LRN2DIY]

Very true. I actually filmed all of that for this video (had the hanger chucked in the drill) but decided to cut it out since the video was so long already and I figure most folks will be able to use the measuring method, but I'm always on the fence about how much to leave in or take out.

[@btd2516]

You can get oversize outlet and switch plates at Lowes and Home Depot to cover "boo-boos" when cutting box holes like in method #2. Glad you showed all 3 methods.Good video. Thanks!

[@swcheshier61]

I just subscribed. Love your video. Straight to the point, very well thought out, very thorough. Thank you.

[@Gruuvin1]

I love that you used your tester for correct wiring AFTER you reattached the drywall and baseboard. That's how I would've done it too!

[@manny9323]

Can’t tell if this is sarcasm. But yeah if the wiring’s wrong it can be fixed in the box so there’s no real reason to test before finishing.

[@Gruuvin1]

@@manny9323 sometimes. Not always

[@LeverPhile]

Lol ...

[@kevinh5983]

For #3 you can use a California drywall patch to patch the drywall and not have to deal with sticks. I learned how to do that recently and I'll never make small patches with wood supports again.

[@saulrodriguez7258]

Thank you very much, very informative, I enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Keep up the great work.

[@edwardmoran1739]

Wow that Klein magnet tool is fabulous. Thanks.

[@greekboydinos]

excellent instruction, thank you for sharing

[@vilo3454]

Finally, someone did an outlet add that is not the easy directly above outlet add

[@robertcampain612]

Very informative!! Thanks for posting!!

[@Gracenote35]

I’m an electrical engineering student in college. I don’t have my own place, let alone any need to do this. Did I still watch the entire thing? Yes. Yes I did. Great video!

[@TheFatbutterpancake]

thanks ive consulted this video several times. Well done easy to follow.

[@MarlaHaynes]

Thank you so much. I just had to replace my outlet in my bedroom and I'll redo it to make sure about the silver and brass sides. After, I can add another outlet to my room. I really appreciate this. My uncle who does this has moved far away and I have to do things myself. Again..... THANK YOU

[@robertgregory2618]

Back before the magnate thing I used to use very small chain. Hook on wire in attic, tape it so it wouldn't get caught on something and then used a piece of wire, made a hook on the end of it to hook on to the chain down at the box. Didn't have to take box out, just made another hole in top of box and fished it in. Made sure I was behind or in front of insulation. You could tell if it was going down by shaking the chain and by the weight of the chain. It took a bit of skill but that's all we had back in the day.

[@jerrylittle7797]

Awesome video. Love the 1 1/2 tape trick!

[@partsdave8943]

I used a Right Angle drill adapter in a tight spot between studs. Worked perfectly with my 6 inch Speed Bit.

[@LRN2DIY]

Good call! I actually have one but didn't think to use it.

[@clarkwhicks]

Dude what a wonderful and informative video thanks

[@walkerjw81]

I would have never thought to take out the baseboard. This is great. I was wondering about moving to either side of studs on a finished wall. Removing the baseboard makes it easier to replace and patch up with zero notice. Great clip.

[@jimonthecoast3234]

Now the base has two ugly seams. This is a hack job

[@walkerjw81]

@@jimonthecoast3234 not really though.

[@ViniciusDellAglio]

Very very nice video, thanks for sharing it with the community!

[@prant8998]

Drop cloth?

[@duggiemoe]

That's the greatest looking stud finder I've ever seen!!

[@blackhorse2947]

This is a project I want to do as well. Not sure which method I will use. Here in Oklahoma presently it’s 105 degrees and i’m sure my attic is the temperature of the sun, but thank you for this video and information, very well done.

[@LRN2DIY]

Thanks and best of luck on yours! The attic was insanely hot and definitely the worst part of this project but my timing was definitely not the best.

[@johnmiranda1341]

nicely done and love the Storm Trooper

[@tommissouri4871]

3:25 -this is a good idea most miss. When we moved my parents' house 47 years ago, I wired the basement rooms such at power for lights and outlets were different circuits and the rooms were split so that not all were out at once. It gets very dark in a basement if all go out. Also, if you need to shut off power for work in a room, you still had power close that normal extensions worked for the tools.

[@stixinst5791]

Also laying a live cable in a pvc/metal pipe all the way around every room. Saves you the headache of using a source outlet

[@johnburns2940]

Thanks fella, lots of good stuff here to absorb.

[@user-eh2rl5xk9o]

We could never learn to be brave and patient if there were only joy in the world.

[@aarondixon2244]

With method #1, be careful about double bottom plates (3” high) on your wall, especially when using standard 3 1/4” baseboard. You would not have enough space to drill through the studs. You might be able to get away with it if the baseboard has been raised off the floor 1/2” to account for carpet thickness, but otherwise it would not work. This would be an issue in exterior walls on most wood framed homes, but could even come up in some interior walls. In Florida, for example, many homes are built on concrete slabs, with double bottom plates on all interior walls - the bottom bottom plate being pressure treated. They have concrete block exterior walls and no basements, so the only way to add an outlet like this without cutting and patching drywall would be to go up into the attic.

[@davidward3991]

I used a tape measure sent up to the attic to attach the romax cable and my father in law was so amazed that he had never thought of that. It took us 30 min to pull 3 wires so that we could run it to my workshop.

[@ryanyoder7573]

Cool idea thanks for sharing

[@JosePedroFilipeCuriousTech]

I like this type of videos just to know how things “could have been” because here where I live we don’t use drywall to build walls. We use bricks which makes all these methods inappropriate 😊 But, has I said, nice video 👍🏼

[@stinky3toes209]

I recommend that you mark the studs with painters tape (no tape residue) before you remove the baseboard to prevent damaging the drywall.

[@HankBaugh]

Great job. I have an old house that still has some ungrounded wiring to replace. I will probably be able to use the baseboard method. Probably will buy one of those Kein wire pullers just in case.

[@tonygil4372]

Thank you for this video.

[@LiesOfJoe]

wow never thought of doing it this way before.

[@topperdude2007]

Glad to see this video - I am in the process of finishing my basement as well and found your basement related video(s) quite helpful especially the ones related to options for transmitting A/V from receiver to projector. One quick question - I noticed in this video you mentioned about the insulation for sound isolation. I am also planning to add insulation to my inside walls for the same purpose - however, folks (contractors / handymen) locally seem to indicate fiberglass insulation does not work quite as well for sound isolation as compared to mineral wool. However - as you might know - mineral wool is quite bit more expensive compared to fiberglass. I would appreciate your feedback on how well fiberglass insulation has worked for you for the purpose you stated in the video ("kids sleeping while the home theater is cranked up")? Thanks for any input. 👍 P.S. I will also be using this video (along with Scott's video) as reference for tying into existing switch to add an outlet for heated towel rack.

[@LRN2DIY]

Very cool that you're working on your basement! So my experience with the insulation for sound is that you get what you pay for. It definitely helps - even just the fiberglass - but it doesn't block out as much as rock wool. I think we paid about $1500 to insulate our entire 1950 square foot basement (including 6-8" thick ceiling fiberglass) so it was well worth it. Keep in mind that was several years ago. Good luck on the basement and the outlets too!

[@topperdude2007]

@@LRN2DIY Thanks for the quick reply - not sure why KZbin notification takes so long to show up. Glad to learn about your experience. with sound attenuation using fiberglass. My challenge since starting work on the basement finish back in summer of 2020 and wrapping up framing in couple days (~1200 sq ft basement area) was to get contractors out for HVAC, electrical (since we needed an additional breaker box added). Once the electricians were done - in Spring 2021, we have struggled with getting the insulation material due to supply chain shortages (anytime we stopped by the big box stores, we were told the contractors used to take any consignments coming on). Furthermore, things were complicated since most videos I have seen regarding mineral wool are installing between I-beams 16 inches on center whereas our ceilings have floor trusses that are 24 inches on centers and mineral wool in that size is even harder to come by. Anyway, now with price hikes - fiberglass is almost twice the cost of what it was prior to pandemic - the gap between cost for fiberglass and mineral wool is even less. So even if we go with mineral wool, we need to make sure it is installed properly. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

[@paulpugh2480]

Neatly done.

[@PeymanSayyadi]

Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@JoshSongz684]

Great video. I’ve never seen method 1 before. Going to try that next time. And I definitely need to get me one of those magnets.

[@GonzalesMansion]

Great job

[@johnknightiii1351]

Drop a chain down the box then attach it to the romex to pull it up through the box, it makes it super easy.

[@offertunatea]

I've seen wire protect ring that you simply put the wire through the ring and put the ring into hole of the stud. That makes more room for nailing drywall onto the stud.

[@TomCee53]

The magnetic wire puller is interesting, but i usually use a fiberglass rod set to pull from attic or basement, especially with insulation.

[@hankkline7300]

I use a piece of #6 ground wire, it will punch right through an insulated wall then tape your romex to it.

[@larryborshard7824]

Love your videos, Nils. I'm always learning something. Apologies if this has already been mentioned, but don't you want to check your wiring BEFORE you reinstall the dry wall and molding,.in case you need to correct something without tearing the molding and sheetrock back out? Keep up the great videos. I'm going to keep on watching!

[@jaycustin7002]

Some irony here... one of the first of your videos I watched covered (a) why to NOT use the wire nuts you have in this video and (b) the auto stripper. Aside from that... yet another amazing video. If I could give you two thumbs up I would.

[@ChevyDude]

I just use one of those Stickers that look like an outlet. Much easier... 🤣

[@johnsee7269]

😂

[@notasheep5888]

Thanks for you videos, and following code. Installing outlet on a wall by cutting drywall behind baseboard in closet on the other side of the wall. How can I install nail stops without taking baseboard off the other side, ie both sides of the wall? Thanks!

[@stanleyvo5198]

Nice explanation …❤😊

[@kyungrix1112]

I have converted many of my outlets in my house to double outlets for 4 total outlet spots per. I use a sawzall to cut the nails on the original boxes, I just feel cutting nails with the multitool damages the blades too fast

[@nathanielr9073]

Subbed for the green screen wall, never seen someone do that before!

[@angelmares6668]

Nice,,easy explained

[@jackdolphy8965]

Your mention of the ecx is something many of have not known about from our beginnings as diy-ers or even pros. Super excellent bit to have!

[@alanunseld4942]

nice job on second install 🙋‍♂️

[@suzylarry1]

the green screen view has surpassed th HOW TO with guess and by golly to a conformation on how to . Very well displayed

[@coydever7748]

Great info. Just a bit of advice, remove that huge conductor on your finger when working with electricity.

[@ikkuranus]

I didn't know a stud finder like the one you have existed. I absolutely hate the typical ones where they don't illuminate the entire stud all at once.

[@williamly-lee3973]

Love the diagrams!

[@LRN2DIY]

Thanks! They take longer to create but I learn better that way for sure. I appreciate you mentioning it!

[@efthegop8000]

Pro tip. Shorter wires and longer pigtails will let the wires fold easier into the box

[@LzysGraphics]

yuck. you can't possibly be suggesting cutting the wires short...

[@jovetj]

Well, definitely longer pigtails. Want 6 inches at least on those, too.

[@BigmoRivera]

Great Job 😉👍🏽⚡️

[@EpicBenjo]

+1 for those Wago connectors!

[@spirod2657]

Quite interesting. I like the second method better. I'm not an electrician but I'm pretty sure that here for us in Australia, any mains wiring that goes horizontal needs to be outside the wall, visible in a conduit. Only verticle wrining can hide inside the wall. Otherwise great video. Enjoyed it.

[@hemi4722]

I don't know about Australia but Canada we have mains wires go horizontal, as long as it's protected and supported every few feet which it is but running through the CENTRE of the stud. That parts important.

[@michaell6645]

Absolutely helpful first way!! Wouldn’t it be better to test power before putting wall back together? My luck I would have to take off twice 😂

[@pargolf3158]

If there was a problem with the power, he would not need to pull the wall back off since the cable is already run from outlet to outlet. The problem would lie within the outlet box itself.

[@JVinOlathe]

I agree. I always do all the connections first and test before putting the receptacles in the box. Once everything tests ok, I assemble the receptacles and do a final test before putting the covers.

[@noahholt482]

I do the same thing wit our patching. Cut the hole for box in center and then drill left and right. . Then drill through the side of each existing box and run fish tape.

[@joshuaychung]

In Illinois (at least Northern Illinois by Chicago), I think you have to run metal conduits behind the walls. Even exposed, you have to run the metal clad armord cables. I guess I can somehow get sections and connect them somehow...

[@paulpugh2480]

You can chisel out a small place to accommodate the Romex in front of the stud and then cover it with your nail plate and don't drill a hole in the stud weakening the stud.

[@HughD]

Nice job! I'd like to see you do one showing putting an outlet on the other side of an interior door facing the same interior space.

[@LRN2DIY]

Thanks! If you have attic or crawl space access, it’s the same process as shown. If not, it’s a lot of drywall cutting and patching.

[@HughD]

@@LRN2DIY Thanks for the quick response, but unfortunately the roof slopes down over this area and makes it almost impossible for a normal-size person to get to it. I see Home Depot has some quarter-round with a channel for wiring, but am not sure if that is ok for electrical wiring...they show it being used for HDMI and USB power wiring. This door has a threshold as it goes to a screen porch from a bedroom so that would help.

[@LRN2DIY]

@@HughD It’s up to you, of course, but it’s against code to run anything but low voltage wiring in that way, so HDMI and such are ok but not 110v for wiring outlets unfortunately.

[@HughD]

@@LRN2DIY I thought that might be the case. Thanks again!!!

[@evictioncarpentry2628]

Go through the bottom. You surely have a basement or crawl space to access it.

[@rashellyohn5128]

Thank you for your knowledge giving me hope. I don't trust that my wires are safe after my son melted an outlet so bad it blew open the whole side of the outlet. I am afraid that the romex has melted and is exposed at points not seen. This house was built in the early 50's and the wire gauge is larger than 12g and will not wrap around any up-to-date outlets and also there is nothing to work with. No 6" loop. The breaker box I know I need to get an understanding of what breakers handle what amount of amps per breaker so as not to make the same mistake that I think the prior owner(s) have made by overloading a breaker. But to assume that it is at the right amps on this particular breaker I will need to rewire from the box and daisy chain to all the 4 outlets starting with the closet to the breaker and move on to the next. Where would I go when It comes to the threshold of the front door and going from one wall to the next. Can I just disconnect the old wire and leave it in the wall and rewire it along the base bords cutting the sheetrock in the strips as you have done. Please and thank you for giving me some advice and how to get started.

[@MarkJaquith]

What about using a flex bit to drill sideways through the studs from one box to the other? Probably going to be tricky going through four studs, but one or two should be doable (with two, you could drill them individually from each side, after removing the existing outlet box like you showed).

[@jonathanladd845]

You can actually get them that have sections that make them multiple feet long and they have a little hole on the end of the bit to hook a pull wire through and then from the pull wire you can attach your romex and pull it through. Literally the only extra holes in your wall is the one for the new box. So much easier and faster.

[@johnsee7269]

We always used pigtails and 12-2; even on lighting citcuits. Nowadays that might be less feasible... Wired many cable heat, 220(240), ceiling panels with our 12-2 to the manufacturer's 14-2...

[@TheNewGreenIsBlue]

Nice video. I may recommend stripping the romex and taping the end to fish into the box. You'll get a cleaner cut inside the box and it's easier. Especially with such a small run. That being said, the insulation might be a bit of an issue in that case.

[@Layarion]

Hey i need to stud finder the works on rough, very bumpy wall that's lath and plaster? or a method.

[@Chris.Lewis1456]

Wish i woulda found this video a week ago. Luckily for me i shiplapped the wall i added outlets on lol

[@user-jn2lk1lx6c]

12 ga wire is for 20 amp circuit- 14 ga wire is for 15 amp service. Make sure breakers in panel box match wire rating.

[@gaylanbishop1641]

At 6:35, how did you feed the cable in through that little hole in the outlet box?

[@pauljohnfox]

How is this done with brick, block, or cement walls? I’m imagining just grinding out a massive channel to run the wires and having to patch and paint after. There is also an absurd mix of poorly done surface mounts (some are grounded) and the original cloth wire two prong outlets. How do I shove it all into the wall AND add ground to the older circuits? Is it possible without hiring a pro?

[@Unknown--error]

What is that attachment on the bottom of your ridgid drill? Looks like a magnet or bit holder of some sort. Got a link?

[@sparkyheberling6115]

I've read that it is safer to orient the plug with ground up. Does NEC have a preference?

[@Russianmafia10]

When it comes to combining 3 or 4 wires, wago connectors are sooooo much nicer to use

[@csl9495]

Can you do a plaster and lath wall?

[@mikeheller1225]

You can eliminate worry about the new Romex getting damaged by using Smart Shield (get at Home Depot) instead of nail plates.... in this application, would be perfect!

[@mrgcav]

12:25 your error is very comforting. Been There, did that.

[@scorpio6587]

Awesome

[@akbychoice]

Caution when drilling near the bottom of the stud, drilling into a nail could be an issue.

[@user-yz5sq4pq7h]

His mind was blown that there was nothing in space except space itself.

[@michaelmcdonough1989]

Is there not a code that you have to secure the romax to the stud within so many inches above/below the outlet?

[@LRN2DIY]

That applies to new installs. Here's what 334.30 states: Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling

[@michaelmcdonough1989]

@@LRN2DIY Thank you

[@user-jn2lk1lx6c]

If you pull wire from center of box, it twists, so best to open box and roll wire out.

[@jnidositko]

The tool that you called "flush cut snips" is actually for pulling nails. This is why the head is rounded. You grip the nail with the tool and then pull to the side, using the face of the tool as a fulcrum. If you don't get it out in one pass, reposition it at the surface of the wood and repeat. They can be used from either the front or the back. In this case since these are finish nails, you can pull them through the back.

[@FC-qe1wl]

Actually they are called nail nippers.

[@bigfoottoo2841]

I have a 90 degree drill bit adapter that allows me to drill holes that centered and square with the studs.

[@sparkyheberling6115]

Do you have a video for installing receptacles in plaster walls?