How To Add Headlight Relays To Your Classic Mopar (Or Anything, Really)

[@DJT_351]

BEST relay video on the net 🎉. Nice job 👍🏽

[@vicmacias3831]

Can't wait for the truck!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s taking a little longer than anticipated 😅 it’s now going to be a completely different truck, but it’s happening!

[@warmouth83]

Just did this on my 66 fairlane and it works great so far

[@stormwolfgames6636]

I'm tired of going through headlight switches on my k10, I think its time to add some relays... Thanks for the video.

[@roosternewsbymarkwatson6586]

My old 1984f250 has flickering lights too. My search brought me to you're vid..Thank you .. Helped a bunch..I understand the low high beam 2 relay option better now.. Also bonus , recently my 3G alternator wire which is tapped into my headlights burned up my fusible link.. I did not hook it up, the guy who dropped my new motor in Did.. So now, I'm gonna start over and hook the alternator the way it should be.. Directly to the starter relay.. And separate the headlights and hook up relays to them..

[@robertarends2458]

I used to have a big problem with my 1967 barracuda when I come up to a stoplight and the headlights to go dim I tried everything and then years later I found out about headlight relays and use them on all my classic vehicles plus I also use them on the HVAC blower motors because they take a lot of power.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep - I see that problem a lot. I did also have some other tips in this video that can help - making absolutely sure the firewall connector is clean and in good shape is a great place to start.

[@stevemason6850]

Speedway motors sells a plug and play headlight relay kit. Fits any 12 v earlier car. it is a no brainer to install.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice!

[@mooosestang]

Tackling this on my 63 tbird. My low beams are definitely not brighter! With the high beams on they cut in and out after 10-15 minutes and eventually stay off until i step on the dimmer switch. I all ready replaced the dimmer switch. I got two 30amp relays coming so i guess i'll run low beams through one and high beams the other. Oh, i ordered some factory style connectors so i don't have to cut the stock wiring.😉

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Common issue. Poor connections somewhere in the circuit between the lights and the switch raise the current draw - particularly from the high beams, given that there are four of them, which is enough to trip the internal breaker in the headlight switch. Relays will fix it.

[@Wadley225]

I bought a 1973 Plymouth Duster recently, and whatever jacka$$ owned it years ago went relay crazy with it. I'm taking out their excess wiring as much as possible. I have a few relays to investigate yet, as to what they operate. I want factory wiring as much as possible.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. Aside from a couple choice modifications, I much prefer stock wiring.

[@2LaneTraveler]

I like this '66 Charger mainly because my dad had one when I was growing up. Same color, even.

[@RandallSoong-pp7ih]

Great info. Thank you!!

[@campsmoky]

Will a relay be as good as a separate LED headlamp harness? I had one on my 64 barracuda prior to getting the entire car rewired. Super bright. New car wiring harness, my lights are almost as dim as In the beginning. This would be easier than adding a new headlamp harness it seems.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve never dealt with a separate harness as you are describing - but this works very well.

[@sjaywjayw70]

Run a charge wire from the alternater to the starter. It'll bypass the bulkhead.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Not only is that done on the car you’re looking at in this video, I also have a charging system guide video in which I suggest people do exactly that.

[@sjaywjayw70]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I'll check out your library. I'm going to wire up my 70 Roadrunner using this video. Thanks.

[@JoesMoparMess]

Did your headlight rotators work? Did you have those on relay?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes, they have to use relays for the switching logic. I did the modern relay conversion and replaced one headlight motor. Two modern relays take the place of the three originals behind the glovebox. It worked, but I had to use the “hold open” switch whenever the lights were on, or one of them would constantly blink up and down. If you are after the modern relays setup, it can be found through a Google search. There’s like a special ‘66-67 Charger website that had all the info.

[@JoesMoparMess]

Thanks. Isn’t there a way I can test the rotating motors? I know the wires going to them are getting almost 12 volts.

[@gsrider569]

Thank You!!!!

[@glennmanchester5696]

You can make all four come on on high beams w a relay as well ive done that

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

All four always come on as high beams. Do you mean both filaments in the lows? Or all four as low beams? I am confused

[@glennmanchester5696]

@@DeadDodgeGarage my bad if all four come on as high beams idk what I was thinking sorry bro ..

[@jaym6325]

How do you do this when the wires are goin through the horn relay?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Which wires? Are we talking GM or something?

[@jaym6325]

@@DeadDodgeGarage 67 impala

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@jaym6325 The main power wires junction at the horn relay, but that doesn't really change the procedure for adding relays like this.

[@Cbodygarage]

The largest fail point in the Chrysler electrical is the amp gauge. This is what you really want to watch. Fires start under the dash when the amp gauge connection gets worn out or loose.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I have definitely heard people say that, but have never seen it happen. All of the failures I’ve seen were “open” failures, meaning no power passes through then. I discuss the amp gauge failures I’m familiar with in my no crank, no start video.

[@fieldcars3301]

6:04 your marker light is flashing on and off with high beam not sure why

[@fieldcars3301]

sorry at about 6:01

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s by design 😅 they’re not supposed to be on that car, but because they’re there, I installed bright bulbs and wired them as fog lights - and fog lights come on with low beams, but not high beams, by law in most states.

[@jornveen9063]

When i put on my lights those fog-lights and blinker is turning on.. When I turn on lowbeam those turning off, I want to have them ‘on’ even when I turn on the low beam.. how can I do that?

[@BigBadJones]

I have a bunch of chewed up wires from a rat. Good time to add relays .

[@bryanglover3217]

Yeah I have a 74 Dodge D200 with no high beams in my dash lights don't work the high beam light comes on but the lights go black but everything else works in the truck

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

High beams are most likely a firewall connector issue. I’ve never had that with high beams, but there aren’t many other possibilities there. Headlight switch is probably the dash light problem. I usually spin the adjustment for them back and forth for a few minutes, and they will often magically come back.

[@JaughnDough]

Or just stick in some LED sealed beams. Bolt right in. Much less power draw and vastly superior in every way. Got a set in my '93 D250 and they are amazing. I can see just as well as in my 2020 Hyundai with factory LED headlights.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m not at all a fan. It sucks that everyone else has them these days so you almost have to go there. They don’t look right in these cars. Plenty of people use them and that’s fine. But me? I’ll keep my bright sealed beams, thanks.

[@thechestnutking736]

@@DeadDodgeGarageYou need to get out of the house more. They have LED lights now that look exactly and have the same color as the old school halogen lights.

[@moparnut6286]

Nice mod full power helps a lot?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah. The difference is definitely noticeable. And taking strain off of the poor old factory electrical system is always a good move.

[@moparnut6286]

@@DeadDodgeGarage yep that poor old light switch has served well it deserves a break lol 😆

[@sjaywjayw70]

I'm adding relays, but I'll use time delay off.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice. That’s a cool idea.

[@thechestnutking736]

This upgrade seems a century old now. If you want to keep your older style Halogen lights then the upgrade is a must but if you’re converting over to LED,s you don’t need the relay upgrade.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I will never convert my classics to LEDs, so it’s still very useful to me. Also, I had always assumed the same thing, but you may want to reconsider that stance, because the LED headlights in my brother’s fury pull enough juice on high beam to intermittently trip the headlight switch breaker and go dark. We will be adding relays at some point.

[@thechestnutking736]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Sounds like he’s getting ready to burn the car to the ground. Normal halogen lights on all 4 brights will use around 18 amps and that can very depending on your charging system. Holley LED only use around 10 amps and again it maybe even less depending on the Charging system. They are 30 watts bulbs. The only way he’s having trouble if he’s charging system is incapable and he’s using the big 40w bulbs which equals to around 13 amps total on all 4 . I’m running the 40w bulbs and I deleted the amp meter, 1 wire 160 amp alternator with a 4 gauge wire going from the alt to the battery post. I’m using AC, Sniper, Electric Fans and the lights on bright and have zero issues. Hell even the 25w bulbs only use around 8 amps total and they’re way brighter than halogens.

[@martinadams7949]

Not just classic, the 89 k car I. harvested the 2.5, for the charger 2.5, had a dashboard fire that started in the headlight switch. I used high wattage bulbs in the 98 dakota rt and melted the headlight connector, spliced in a new one and i thought that had relays.

[@scottprato7800]

So, when are you doing this to your demon?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well… probably never. But there is some mild hackery already…

[@TommyJensen-pl8qz]

someone has cooked a pot full of spaghetti and then emptied the pot into the engine compartment

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Dinner’s ready!

[@anthonychicoine9372]

Great instructional video but sorry, the “game show host” effect is really grating on the nerves. Just speak normally, you’ll sound much more professional and credible.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You’re watching a more than two year old video from when I was first developing as a presenter. Ask just about anyone who does this and they will tell you that their early videos were terrible and embarrassing. But my old videos are still full of great information, and they still get hundreds or thousands of views every month. Watch a new one. If you still don’t like my voice, then you don’t like me. Thanks.

[@hemisidetrack2767]

Well, I really like Jamie's style it's sharp, witty, and down to earth. He is naturally witty as far as I can see. So, being more professional sounding to make you happy would be fake just like most others on KZbin. Just saying

[@popanda3652]

Id expect nothing more from a cyclist

[@ericcartman3440]

I actually really enjoyed it , anything electrical is intimidating for me , mechanical heck we’ll do it anyway , this voice made it feel like it was going to be a not so complicated task

[@rshegg7605]

Just do it, WHATS THE WORST THAT COULD HAPPEN 🫣

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I suppose the worst that could happen is one could wire it incorrectly, create a dead short, connect the battery and quickly walk away without noticing the smoke.