How to Adjust all 6 EJK Fuel Settings CRF250L

[@sprinterboy713]

This video was genius. Explained the workings of the controller in a way i understood. thanks again i have all the confidence needed to adjust settings.

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks Kevin. Glad it's helping :-)

[@rfk76]

Thank you! Finally a good explanation of how EJK works and what those settings do. Much appreciated.

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks, glad it helped :-)

[@Skooba72]

Very informative, you have the right type of voice and demeanor for this type of instructional video. Thank you for sharing your experience with the ejk and bravo! 👏

[@Scoottoots]

Thank you for those kind words. This info is perhaps dated now. The later CRF models use a different EJK model.

[@Skooba72]

@@Scoottoots I see, yes I have a 2018 and I just connected the gen 3.5 but haven't had a chance to ride yet (winter in Wisconsin) but this is mod in the shop time for my bike. I have a Two Brothers exhaust, going to do 2" air box mod, K&N filters and 42 tooth rear sprocket thus far, so I am just trying to study up on the ejk to have a good understanding how it works when spring arrives. I would imagine your explanation of how each of the colors work would still apply?

[@Scoottoots]

@@Skooba72 Yes I believe the colors work the same way. The difference would be the numbers. Best thing is to start with the default settings for the stage one mods since that's what you're doing, then tweak if needed. The most common tweak is to reduce the Green Cruise setting to increase fuel economy, as you don't need to enrich much for low throttle/rpm/load and steady cruising. Sounds like you'll have a good setup once done. The 14/42 gearing worked nicely on that bike; good all round gearing for 50/50 riding. Have fun :-)

[@ranik8890]

MOD1with Arrow exhaust - hot weather - 1.5 2.5 5.5 4.5 3 3.5 quite good, but now confident to play with it all the best and thanks again

[@Scoottoots]

Super-cool :-)

[@malcolmleick8405]

I also have the arrow thunder exhaust. Did you stick with your settings above or make further changes? Thanks.

[@340rps]

Maybe I misinterpreted what you said but I was having idle issues with the rpm rolling up and down. After the install and setting the controller the idle was perfect.

[@Scoottoots]

Well the controller doesn't alter the idle mixture at all, but it can affect how the engine approaches idle. But hey, if it's fixed, that's great however it happened.

[@shawnames2271]

Thanks for the explanation of various settings with various mods. Very helpful!

[@Scoottoots]

Cheers. Just remember this is focused on this particular version of the ejk. Settings are somewhat different for other versions. Glad it helps :-)

[@toddfernau4615]

I understand what your saying , what im having a hard time understanding is how to perform the adjustments, I would love to see a video where you actually run through the adjustments.

[@Scoottoots]

I no longer have this bike or an EJK controller so I can't do a video, but it's just a matter of using the buttons to advance to the desired setting be it green, yellow, or red, then adjusting up or down. The EJK web site has detailed instructions as I recall on how to move through the settings.

[@ИванМилев-я6п]

Sincerely thank you man! God bless you!

[@Scoottoots]

Glad it helps 🙂

[@ranik8890]

thanks the advice on the set points when to kick-in where very helpful

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks. Glad it helps. My current settings for the warmest months, with Yoshi spark arrestor installed and no silencing mod are: 2, 4, 7, 3.5, 3, 3.5. Mixture changes with air temp in a 4 season climate. So I change my settings dependant on season, flow through the system, exhaust note, and tail pipe deposit color and texture.

[@tommy.palombi]

This helped a lot. Thank you sir!🙏

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks for letting me know. Ride safe 🙂

[@SingleTrackTherapy]

Thanks for all the great Videos Blast, I am a new CRF250L owner and BC resident myself. Safe travels!

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks, and congrats on the purchase. Good choice. Have fun :-)

[@AlexanderÅberg-t6q]

Hello from Sweden! watched many of your videos. Have understood that you worked a lot with EJK on your crf250l. Thought I'd ask if you have any thoughts on which settings could work well together on mine? My bike is a 2014 and has an opened air box with an open air filter but is otherwise original. Have a Yoshimura full system but took it off as it sounds too much, Unfortunately. best regards Alexander

[@Scoottoots]

Hello Alexander. It's been a bit too long since I've had that bike and an EJK for me to remember properly. That said, The EJK website (Dobeck) used to have the recommended settings listed on the sales page for the EJK model for your bike. It listed settings for a stock bike and also for stage one mods. If that's still listed I would use the stock settings and check how the bike runs. The stock settings on the EJK will not be too lean with your air box and filter mods. You can then tweak the settings a half point at a time to test. You will likely be adjusting the yellow (aceleration) setting, as that's where you can use a bit more enrichment

[@SLOEPATROL]

I found your EJK settings to be spot on for me. Particularly the switch points. I really noticed a positive difference after I changed the switch points to match yours. Thank you.

[@MrJoshiba26]

Enjoyed your explanations of everything. Very useful. My wr250r has fouled a plug. I'm thinking I'm too rich on my tune.

[@Scoottoots]

Could well be. Also make certain the plug is firing strong and gap is still correct. A weak spark can easily cause fouling as well.

[@DeadUntilAutumn]

So we put an aftermarket exhaust on a 2020 klx 250. Made adjustments, then switched back the exhaust. Now there's a fuel leak where the throttle body meets the intake. Is this due to ejk programmed with incorrect settings?

[@Scoottoots]

I seriously doubt that is possible. If you switched back to stock from an aftermarket exhaust without changing your ejk settings, it would simply run too rich. To eliminate the ejk from the equation, you can set your ejk to not add any fuel. On the old model ejk those settings were '.5' for the first 3 settings. Check with Dobeck or the ejk manual to find that setting for your model. Interesting though that it happened after the switch. Is it possible it was leaking before and you didn't notice?

[@DeadUntilAutumn]

Thank you so much for a speedy response. My father and I were trying to troubleshoot this pretty hard. Came to the same conclusion, it can't be the ejk. We think something happened, he ran out of fuel very quickly on the last ride. But we never noticed any smell of gas, very weird. She's headed to the shop! Lol

[@Scoottoots]

@@DeadUntilAutumn Good luck with it. Hope it's nothing serious.

[@michaelhall6930]

Super helpful. Thanks!

[@Scoottoots]

Glad it helps :-)

[@ИванМилев-я6п]

What are you thougts on the settings provided by the ejk manufacturer for stage 1 that are the following: Green 3 Yellow 3 Red 6 Green/Blue 5 Yellow/Blue 4 Red/Blue 4.5 What spark plug do you use? Did you removed the intake snorkel? I bought mine with a hole drilled with diameter of 3cm next to the snorkel and I wonder should I remove it I'm with kn filter and arrow exhaust system without db killer

[@Scoottoots]

I found that the first three settings can be dialed back a bit. Maybe experiment with 1.5, 3, 5, and tweak from there. The green cruise setting especially does not need to be that rich. Yes, I removed the snorkel and enlarged the hole to fit a larger snorkel made from a rubber plumbing elbow. I had a K & N air filter and a full Yoshi system. It ran great.

[@ИванМилев-я6п]

@Scoottoots I want to make it pop when I decelerate or when I rev match a lower gear and increase the rpms, what would you recommend?

[@Scoottoots]

@@ИванМилев-я6п When you say "make it pop," if you mean an exhaust pop, the full system exhaust coupled with the air box mods will cause popping on deceleration especially if you have not removed the Pair System and blocked the airbox and engine ports for that system. Usually people will do away with the PAIR system to reduce popping once there is no CAT in the exhaust, as is the case with most aftermarket systems. If by "pop" you mean more instant throttle response, then the ejk settings mentioned coupled with the mods should give you that.

[@ИванМилев-я6п]

@Scoottoots I want it to pop as meaning to make a exhaust popping when I fully release the throttle from full on. I removed the snorkel as you mentioned and set the green/blue setting to 7 but no pops to be heard. I would really love to hear them pops after I was in full throttle. Thank you for your time and explaining everything!

[@upsguy9380]

If you remove the EJK tuner will the EFI simply readjust back to original air/fuel mixture without any issues? I bought a used 2017 crf250L with the 3 mods, k&N filter, fmf pipe, and the tuner. I'm thinking about removing all except fmf pipe because I simply don't want to worry about another electronic component malfunctioning. I don't care about any incremental gains I may get..

[@Scoottoots]

The ejk doesn't alter the ecu fuel tables. It adds gas to the mix after the ecu input. Removing it simply removes the additional gas and the fueling instantly reverts back to stock with no issues. Bear in mind, the FMF pipe will likely lean out your mixture without the controller to compensate for it. Not as much of an issue if you are going to revert to the stock air filter, but keep an eye on it with that in mind. I've never heard of an ejk controller malfunctioning btw.

[@kylevanrose9037]

I've got a 2015 and I seem to be loosing power in the high rpms. I pulled the spark plug and it looks like its running rich. I've got the modified air box and the fmf exhaust. Could it be an issue with my EJK settings? I have them at the stage 1 recommendation.

[@Scoottoots]

Try reducing the red (full throttle) setting by a couple points and test ride. A lot of users have found the stage 1 settings to be richer than needed. Check the air filter first though. The engine loses power noticeably if the filter is plugged up too much.

[@cbrider6267]

Hi sir, I posted a link to this video on CBR300R/CB300F forum. I personally own CB300F and have EJK, performance air filter/exhaust slip on combination. Even though the engines are slightly different, I find that the setpoints are about the same. Thank you for posting these elaborate "how to" videos. Ride safe.

[@Scoottoots]

+CBRider Cheers. Glad it helps.

[@supernovadw]

May I ask what settings you are using on your CB300? I'm just fitting a CB300 Crank in to my CRF which will increase the engine capacity to that of your bike.

[@nathaneberline1067]

What setting would help on deceleration popping

[@Scoottoots]

Decel popping usually comes when a person installs an aftermarket exhaust. If you did this, then the popping is solved by removing or disabling the bike's PAIR system. It injects fresh air into the exhaust header. It is that that causes the pop as it burns unburnt gas vapor. So none of the settings will solve that unless the popping in your case is mixture related, in which case you could try enriching Green/Cruise setting slightly.

[@John-o6v4h]

It runs lean on 1.5 at the first stage. But I have cams and a bunch of work stalls

[@Scoottoots]

Yup, you'd have to tune according to your mods. And, bear in mind this video is old so it pertains to the ejk used for the crf250l of that era. Mine was a 2013. I think the newer 250l uses a different ejk.

[@John-o6v4h]

I have all the mods head work cam stage 3 12to1 piston big bor. What settings are you running?

[@Scoottoots]

I don't have this bike any longer. I have the 300L now and am using an aftermarket ECU. Your best bet is to phone Dobeck (EJK) and talk to a tech. They'll advise you correctly.

[@phnx_rs5497]

I know this is very late. But I’m confused with the last 2 switch points. If I increase the number, is it making the cruise longer on the throttle? Cause I’m finding when I’m just cruising it’s still in orange/accel stage. Could I make it so that it would be green stage.

[@Scoottoots]

It's been a long time since I had an EJK. Just to rule out any abnormality in how your unit is functioning, it's best to give Dobeck (EJK) a call and ask to speak to a technical support guy. They are very accommodating and helpful.

[@christophe3358]

I think I'm one of the only people to do this on a 2018 xt250, setting they suggested are 3,3,0.5,2.5,3.5,2, will have to mess around with this

[@Scoottoots]

Experiment. Pretty easy to go too rich though. Have fun 🙂

[@emilianomoises]

Hello, does gearing on the Crf250l affect how you should adjust the kit?

[@Scoottoots]

No, I can't think of a reason why it should. I just went by my seat-of-the-pants dyno, the sound, and the tailpipe odor and deposits.

[@tle68]

I was reluctant on getting the EJK but after hearing all the positive comments, I've decided try it. After getting it, I've programmed it from your recommendations and WOW, it's great! The 250L is now a screamer! Thank you. LCI-Parts Full titanium GP exhaust with SP Tadao Power Box header, and K&N air filter. This CRF is now a BEAST.

[@Scoottoots]

Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate it.

[@davidrivera1727]

Hello thanks for the info. I have a stock 2019 crf250l with k and n filter .Dobeck recommended 2 /2.5. /2.5/ 5/4.5/ 4.5 Runs good a little choppy when cutting the gas. What do you think . Thanks for any input.

[@Scoottoots]

The 2019 model uses a different controller than the one on mine so the settings are different, but you might try lowering the first (Green) setting to 1.5. If that doesn't help try also lowering the 2nd (yellow) setting to 1.5. If that makes things worse or doesn't help, try raising the Yellow and Red to 3, keeping the green at 1.5. Just some stuff to try. Also check your tail pipe deposit before you make any changes. If it's fluffy black and comes off easily on the finger at the slightest touch, then it's an indication you are too rich somewhere in the range or across the range, so the reductions may help. If the deposit is light grey and firm, then a slight enrichment might help. Good luck :-)

[@davidrivera1727]

Scoot Toots ok thank you. I’ll check it out 👍🏼

[@OneMansJourney]

How'd you go Dave?

[@davidrivera1727]

Chays Brown I lower the green to 1.5 seems good but still playing with it.🤷🏼‍♂️

[@OneMansJourney]

@@davidrivera1727 no dramas mate. I've got the same set up as you but haven't bothered playing with the EJK yet, seems pretty good straight out of the box.

[@labellesworkshop]

Awesome explanation. Thank you for the detail Ride safely 🤙🏻

[@Scoottoots]

Cheers :-)

[@kuladeeluxe]

Any worries that a richer mixture will diminish longevity?

[@Scoottoots]

Not at all. If anything a richer mixture, assuming one doesn't go overboard, will increase longevity by keeping the engine cooler than the ultra lean factory mixture.

[@dankatz3]

What would you recommend for a 2014 with ejk, fmf q4, 1 3/8” baffle and spark arrestor, megabomb, k&n air filter and no air box mods? I get about 50 mpg from city riding. Spark arrestor with some black deposits and feels a little rich at idle. Same setting as yours? Great video!

[@Scoottoots]

You stated you have no air box mods. You should open the air box out. I have a larger diameter snorkel and holes drilled in the lid and cover. I think your problem is not enough air intake to take advantage of the mods you've done, and all the while your ejk is adding gas to the mixture causing an overly rich condition. BTW, the ejk does not affect the idle mixture. Ride for several days like that, see how it runs, and check your mpg after that period. If things have improved, then you can begin tweaking the ejk settings if you like to get it just right. Good luck :-)

[@paps7933]

Suggested ejk settings for full fmf exhaust (powercore and megabomb header) and k&n air filter? Thanks in advance

[@Scoottoots]

If you have also opened out the airbox, then start with Dobeck's recommendation of 3, 3, 6, 5, 4, 4.5. They based that on dyno results. Then if you want better fuel economy, drop the first number (green fuel setting) to 2. Ride it for a couple weeks and see how it performs. It should be good.

[@kostashf]

νικο βρηκες ακρη? εχω το 250L του 13 με FMF Q4, megabomb, ανοιχτο φιλτρο και 13αρι γραναζι μπροστα, οι ρυθμισεις του ejk ειναι 3, 3, 6, 5, 4, 4.5, καλα ειναι λες?

[@paps7933]

@@kostashf Μάλλον. Να σου πω την αλήθεια, δεν θυμάμαι αλλά νομίζω είναι σωστό. Το πούλησα και πήρα ένα ΚΤΜ

[@kostashf]

@@paps7933 ωραιος Νικολα, ευχαριστω

[@gromadelphia9667]

I have a ransoto exhaust 80 buck from Amazon and a chimera intakes where would i put the ejk adjustment

[@Scoottoots]

I can't say. If it is similar to a typical full system exhaust, and you have also opened the intake up, then start with the stage one settings recommended by Dobeck for your model of EJK. The newer model CRF250L's are different and they use a different EJK model, so my settings may not apply to the newer ones.

[@gromadelphia9667]

Yea I was looking into it more and they said that It has a map for the exhaust and intake already in it so I’ll just keep it with the settings they have and probably not mess around with it too much appreciate the response I’ll sub

[@Scoottoots]

@@gromadelphia9667 Glad to hear that. Dobeck are good like that. They take time to help customers out. Good stuff :-)

[@gagemcintire5638]

I have a 2020 CRF 250l. 13t front. Removed snorkel and just installed EJK. I removed the spark arrestor. What setting do you recommend. TIA.

[@Scoottoots]

My CRF250L was a 2013 and they took a different EJK, so I don't know the settings your model uses. Check the Dobeck EJK website. They always give the recommended settings for a stock bike. Use those settings to start with and tweak them if needed but likely the settings for a stock bike would be good for you

[@gagemcintire5638]

Thanks man

[@huhwhatisthishandle]

So, just to confirm yours is set up as GRN@1.5, YEL@2.5, RED@5, G/B@4.5, Y/B@3, R/B@3.5, right? I'm looking at those settings for mine. I've got a FMF with a megabomb( with a baffle to quieten it down as it far too loud for the street) , air box mod and obviously the EJK. I've been running at GRN@ 1.5 YEL @ 2. RED @4. G/B @5. Y/B @5.5 R/B @ 5.5 but liked your settings.

[@Scoottoots]

Yeah, just play with them over time and note the difference. Much depends on your air box openness and the exhaust freeflow. With a baffle your fueling will be reduced as you've done. With a fully open exhaust and air box, you would enrich more. Right now I am running a very open air box and no baffle in the yoshi (just spark arrestor) so I am running 2, 4, 7, 4, 3, 3.5. The season makes a difference as well.

[@loyalmoses1677]

Ok, i have all the mods for the (full exhaust yoshi ) CRF250l But the K&N filter and i didn't open up the snorkel? and my bike stalls at stops signs.. Help me pls>

[@Scoottoots]

If you have an EJK controller and full Yoshi system, but have not opened out the intake, you may be running a bit rich if you set the ejk controller to the settings for stage one mods (it may come preset to those). Those settings would be Green 3, Yellow 3, Red 6 for the first three settings. If that what you are set at, you might try setting the Green to 1.5 and the Yellow to 2.5. Also make certain the Green/Blue setting (the 4th setting) is at 5 ideally. Hope that helps. I'm assuming the stalling began after the mods were made.

[@loyalmoses1677]

@@Scoottoots i have the EJK, Yes the stalling began after the mods went in.. i am ordering a K&N filter asap and ill try the settings later on today, so do you recommend i take out the (Stock Snorkel) as well? i just had to watch the EJK dobeck youtube vid like 10 times to make sure i know what i am doing!! Thanks for a quick reply!

[@Scoottoots]

@@loyalmoses1677 Yes, I would remove the snorkel for sure. In fact, try just removing the snorkel and test ride before changing the settings. If no improvement, then change the settings as I recommended. After you have the K&N filter installed, with the snorkel removed and maybe a one inch hole drilled into the air box lid next to the snorkel hole, you can then enrich the settings again. Personally I wouldn't set green setting at higher than 2 even with all the mods done. With all the mods maybe 2, 3, 6 for the first three and leave the last three at default settings. But for now try leaning the first two settings out a bit as in the above comment. Note: the ejk controller does not affect idle mixture. The stalling can happen if you are coming off the throttle at a stop and your green mixture is too rich or the cut in point for the green enrichment (Green/Blue) is too close to idle (cuts in too soon if that setting is too low).

[@ziguratrandom224]

Sir scot..good morning. I got crf250l 2020 k.n air filter airboxmode ejk ppowercore4 slip.on Any ejk setting recomend? Thank u .. I got stalling issues sometime during stoplight always. Watching your vlogs from Philippines.

[@Scoottoots]

I can't comment on the settings for the unit made for the 2020 CRF250L. It is a different model EJK than for my 2013 model 250L. The settings I think are different. All I can say is go to the Dobeck EJK website and look up your model ejk for the 250l and they should give the settings for a stock bike and a bike with stage one mods. Try those stock bike settings first. If no luck with those, then adjust them by leaving the Green (cruise) setting at the recommended and only raise the Yellow (acceleration) by the minimum amount possible, and do the same with the Red (full throttle) setting. So you want just a slight increase in those two fuel settings from the recommended settings for a stock bike. The EJK does not alter the idle mixture, so it may not be responsible for the stalling. But running richer than stock can cause a stall when coming to a stop if you do not gear down into each gear as you do so. So there's that to try. Make sure you gear down into each gear and let the clutch lever out on each gear as you stop. That usually solves the issue and is the best way to ride anyway.

[@ziguratrandom224]

plz help me.. i got my crf250 L 2020 i got stalling issuess . i guse i need good ejk setting

[@Scoottoots]

If you have either stage one mods, or a stock condition bike and are using the recommended settings from Dobeck for your situation, the EJK is not likely causing your stalling issues. The only time the EJK has caused a stalling issue for me was when I reduced the Green/Blue cut in point too far. I recommend leaving that cut in point alone for that reason. Some bikes developed a stalling issue when coming to a stop. Some owners have adjusted the idle up a tad to solve it, by turning the throttle cradle stop screw where the cables attach at the engine. Personally, I wouldn't mess with that. Could it be something you can avoid by ensuring you gear down through all gears (letting the clutch out on each) when coming to a stop? The EJK does not in any way alter the idle mixture btw. If you have stage one mods and are running the stock ejk settings then perhaps reduce the Green setting. On early models that would mean setting Green at 1.5. I'm not conversant with the later model crf's settings, as they employ a different ejk model.

[@emmanlabirua023]

Hi Scoot, can you help me what setting is best for my moods. I have k&n air filter (snorkel removed), fmf Q4 w/o spark arrestor and fmf megabomb headers. Thank u! And regards from Philippines.

[@Scoottoots]

If your bike is pre 2016, you could try 1.5, 2.5, 5 and leave the last three settings (cut in points) at 5, 4, 4.5. See how it performs and check your tail pipe deposit. You don't want fluffy black that transfers to the finger at a touch. You want it in the medium to dark grey range. That's not a terribly scientific method, but it does give you a fair idea of the mixture. Tweak the settings up from the above if needed. Play with the cut in points if you like, but over the long term I found the stock cut in points are pretty good really. If your bike is a later model, my settings won't be accurate. I hear the later models required a different EJK unit with different settings. My 250L was a 2013. Good luck :-)

[@DeeMoney972]

I was thinking about adding a fmf q4 slip on only to my 2020 crf250L. Do you guys think I can go without a EJK? Slip on only.

[@Scoottoots]

If you are not opening the air box nor using a free-flow air filter, you could likely forego the EJK. Your ECU will probably adjust. That said, an EJK will give you control over the tune to run optimally instead of on the very lean side. Just my thoughts.

[@Rolysh322]

you keep saying that you bring down the setting...that confuses me...I want the max performance from my bike,,I dont care about gas mileage,,,,,I would think setting the stages up instead of down...am i wrong? ..

[@Scoottoots]

You should adjust for your specific bike and its setup, and for what you want to prioritise. If you want more power then adjust for that, but that doesn't always equate to richer settings. Too rich and you lose power. Sometimes reducing the gas added through the controller increases power. It all depends on its current settings, your bike's setup, average temperatures, average elevation, etc. And remember, the last three settings are not like the first three. The last three do not add fuel; they are for setting the points at which the first three settings will be actively adding fuel to the mixture. So reducing any of the last three settings will make it so the fuel will be added sooner. Increase them and the added fuel for that throttle and load range, be it Cruise, Acceleration, or Full Throttle, will be delayed more. So setting the EJK is a balance of optimising the mixture for power or economy (whatever you want) on all three phases of throttle and load, and then determining the best point to cut each of them in. A person could for instance maximise power in the Yellow and Red phase, and save some dollars by keeping the Green (Cruise) phase leaner. Lots of ways to go.

[@Rolysh322]

@@Scoottoots That is good info. but i need starting spot...I would like to know where i can get max power when i hit 2 gear, i dont care if the wheel falls off when i hit 3rd or if the engine stalls setting still....And then i can tune backward from there....Thanks for all you info. where do you live? I live in Houston TX near NASA...

[@Scoottoots]

@@Rolysh322 IF you have a full system exhaust, free-flow air filter, opened out air box, and an ejk controller, then I would start by disconnecting the O2 Sensor at the connector on the frame in front of the engine, then I'd set the EJK to 1.5, 3, 6, 4.5, 3.5, 3.5. That would be a good start point for maximum power and throttle response throughout the range. Disconnecting the 02 Sensor will keep the stock fueling in open loop throughout so it won't be constantly trying to trim the fuel in the low end. That's also why I set the green setting to 1.5. These are the best settings I have used and it's where I have it set currently. My current gearing is 14/45. Variables such as how open the air box is, and what aftermarket header and muffler you have will affect the settings, so play up and down from the above suggestion. Just make sure you don't set the Green/Blue below 4.5. The ejk by the way does not add any gas at idle. I live in the Okanagan Valley British Columbia. Great place to ride a motorcycle :-)

[@Rolysh322]

@@Scoottoots That is what i wanted to know...I have the open air box, EJK controller, stock exhaust right now but i remove the fire arrester... ...You are awesome my man....Thanks

[@Scoottoots]

@@Rolysh322 Thanks Ronnie. Being as you have the stock exhaust, albeit modified, you'll find the settings I suggested quite rich in the Yellow and Red settings. In your case I would try 1.5, 2, 4, 4.5, 3.5, 4 to start.. Even then, you may need to back off on the red to 3 or 3.5. Have fun experimenting :-)

[@pumpaupdate]

Great job! I adopted your settings and then tweaked from there. Thank you. Question - your thoughts on disconnecting the O2 Sensor? Did you disconnect it on your CRF? Cheers

[@Scoottoots]

For the longest time, I left the O2 sensor connected. The gas consumption rose by about 5% when disconnected without enough performance increase to warrant it. After a few years that changed. I disconnected and did not see an increase in consumption but benefited from slightly better performance at low throttle. Perhaps it had something to do with the sensor getting carboned up in the exhaust port over the years and no longer functioning properly. If you do disconnect it, you'll likely have to tweak the ejk Green setting; make sure it's not adding too much fuel as the ECU will no longer be trimming it in closed loop.

[@pumpaupdate]

@@Scoottoots Great feedback, thank you.

[@z3r0w1ll8]

I have the same set up as you do on your CRF minus the manual tensioner, what are your exact settings I would love to use yours as my basing before I tweak my EJK anymore than I have. Also I must reset mine.

[@Scoottoots]

I do not have the crf anymore, however I was using 2, 3, 6, 5, 4, 4.5 before I sold it. I varied the settings a lot but those are dependable. It's almost the default from Dobeck; just a tad leaner on Cruise.

[@z3r0w1ll8]

@@Scoottoots thank you for getting back with me on a reply so quickly I really appreciate it! Yeah I didn't realize you had gotten rid of it due to your knees until later on I watched more from your channel. I'll work with this though thank you!

[@judawikana3329]

Do people have some setting for a EJK 3.5 for a Kawasaki ZX636R B1H 2003? Open K&N race filter Full exhaust HPcorse end exhaust

[@Scoottoots]

Best starting point is going to the EJK website and selecting your bike and the ejk model to see Dobeck's recommended settings for full stage on mods on that bike. If in doubt or they don't list it, call them on the phone and ask them. They are very helpful people.

[@adventureriders4515]

Do u have any idea how to adjust it slightly to make the throttle smoother ? (Right now when u come.off throttle fully and then turn it back on - say for example.mid corner... it seems to jolt in a little, a bit too sensitive)

[@Scoottoots]

That may not fall under the control provided by the EJK. Some thoughts though: If you are off the throttle fully then I assume the idle mixture kicks in which is not controlled at all by the EJK. If your Green Blue cut-in setting is at stock (5) then you're not adding fuel too abruptly from the throttle off fueling. Reducing the Green Blue cut in point would add fuel richness quicker which would not likely help, and can cause stalling issues when coming to a stop. This all assumes that you have adjusted the EJK for your mods and the mixture in all ranges seems reasonable. A snatchy throttle can be caused by a lean mixture so bear that in mind. Check your tail pipe deposits. If they are light grey you may be running lean and might want to enrich the Green setting and/or the Yellow setting. Again, this has to be appropriate for whatever , if any, mods you have done. One thing you can also try is to disconnect the O2 sensor to disabled closed loop operation in the low to mid throttle range. Trace the wire that exits the left top side of your engine to the frame cross member in front of the engine and disconnect it at that point. This will enrich the low range operation. See if that helps. If it does, then maybe try connecting it again and raising the Green setting a bit, then the Yellow if required. See if that helps. Before you do anything though, make sure your throttle cable is adjusted to remove excessive free-play. It should have very little none and the rpm should not rise when turning the bar to lock on both sides. Loose throttle cables can cause a sudden jerkiness when coming off then on the throttle. Hope some of that helps.

[@LeslieWorks]

So funny because that's the exact reaction I am TRYING to get in the first place

[@headstill]

Thank you for your take on the EJK. I have tried to reach them but no luck, could be covid or no longer in business. Anyway. I am having hesitation/bog on snapping the throttle from idle. I am versed in carbs and I believe this would be an accelerator pump adjustment on a carb. Can you tell me (you opinion)which setting gives me the closest adjustment to an accelerator pump? thanks again.

[@Scoottoots]

A little background info on the ejk: ** it does not alter idle mixture. ** The first three phases (green, yellow, red) that add fuel do not stack on one another, so the fuel you add in yellow for instance is not dependent on the fuel added in the green setting. ** Green adds gas to the cruise low throttle and load range ** Yellow adds gas to the acceleration throttling on under load range ** Red adds gas to the extreme upper end of the throttle and full throttle ** the last three settings are the points at which each of those settings will kick in. It is determined by load and throttle. ** Later model crf 250L's (the Rally for instance) I believe require a different ejk model and the settings are different from what I give on this video. Check the ejk web site for the info for your bike: www.electronicjetkit.com/DirtBike/default.asp If you have the older model, first thing to do is to set the first three (green, yellow, and red) settings to .5 (that's one half in case you missed seeing the decimal). That setting will add zero gas, as if the ejk were not installed. If this corrects the issue, then you know the added fuel is likely the issue and not something unrelated. Assuming the issue was corrected in the previous step, next reset the ejk to settings appropriate for your setup. If your bike is stock, set it to the recommended settings for a stock bike. For older models that would be: GREEN 1.5, YELLOW 1.5, RED 2.5 GREEN/BLUE 5, YELLOW/BLUE 4, RED/BLUE 4.5. If your bike is at stage one mods (full exhaust system, opened out air box and a high flow air filter, then set to GREEN 3, YELLOW 3, RED 6, GREEN/BLUE 5, YELLOW/BLUE 4, RED/BLUE 4.5. If the bike still bogs under a snap from idle, then try leaning out the green setting to 1.5. If that solves it, then see if you can go up to GREEN 2. That first green setting can cause issues if you have it too rich. The other setting that can cause issues is the GREEN/BLUE setting. If you set that too low, as in below 4, it can cause stalling since it would be too rich too close to idle. I hope some of this helps.

[@headstill]

@@Scoottoots Thank you, I am tuning a Kawi VN2000 but still appreciate you numbers detail. I DO have stage 1 with very open air flow on both ends of the engine. SO in my case, when I snap the throttle open, the engine is begging for fuel. Last night I set the EJK at the prescribed stage 1 settings and adjusted the yellow point, both volume and when it comes in....this seems to be where I needed to be. There is very little hesitation on snapping the throttle now. There is no black smoke coming out when testing this (snap throttle) theory so I feel I am in the correct location of adjustments. This has really helped me decypher the green/yellow/red mapping sections and what they do in this system. Thank you for all of your knowledge and video. It is too bad that EJK does not have and real world experience video's on fine tuning this system.....I might just have to make one! cheers!

[@Scoottoots]

@@headstill Oh, I see. I gather then that you found the recommended stage one settings for your bike on the ejk web site. Sounds like you have it in hand now. Just keep checking the exhaust deposit in the tail pipe to ensure it isn't fluffy black soot or too light a grey. And yes, do a video. Happy riding :-)

[@gothops154]

Thank you for this vid! I just installed an FMF Q4 slip on (and nothing else) on my 2020 and was working my way back from the “stage 1” tuning (they don’t offer a stock recommendation for 2017-2020 on their site) and I was at 2/3/4.5-5/4.5/4.5 and that was definitely too rich, the tailpipe deposit was very oily after one ride (this also was the very first ride with the new exhaust if that had anything to do with it, but doubt it) I’ve since leaned it more to 1.5/2.5/4 - 5/4.5/4.5 and will ride this weekend and see how it works. I’m wondering how do you know which part (green/yellow/red) is the culprit of being too rich? So far I’ve leaned all of them by half but if I still see oily deposits how will I know whether it’s yellow or red or both that’s too rich?(shouldn’t be green when it’s at 1.5). Thinking I might have my red come in sooner and maybe the yellow too, but not sure what to look for when changing the cross over points. Is it just personal preference at that point? Or any logic I can apply here?

[@Scoottoots]

I'm not familiar with the settings for the 2020 model. What I'd recommend is to phone Dobeck (the makers of the EJK). Ask to speak to a tech. Have your model number from the EJK you have ready. Ask them what the stock bike settings (no mods) are for that model assuming your EJK is the correct one for your bike's year. Once you have the stock bike settings, try them and tweak up or down from there. Also ask them what the settings are for setting the fueling for no additions. On the old models EJK that setting was .5 on the green, yellow, and red. Setting to that eliminates the EJK's influence so you can check how things are without any added fuel to the mixture. You say you have an oily film on the tail pipe. If it were rich it should just be fluffy black soot. An oily film would be abnormal if it is actual oil residue you feel. At this point do not change the cut in points. Good luck with it :-)

[@chrisewing7275]

thanks for the insight I've got a wr250r with a power core 4 and modded air box I've hesitated on adjusting the ejk but I'm considering messing with it

[@Scoottoots]

+Chris Ewing Yeah, you can always go back to your previous settings. Just keep a watch on how richer or leaner your results are.

[@Difflay]

Good info

[@Scoottoots]

Glad it helps. It's kind of dated now, being as I had the 2013 crf250l at that point, but the principals are the same I suspect :-)

[@DigitalSamTV]

Hey man, I have a very similar bike, the KLX 250. It has been modified to 350 cc and has the ejk. It all runs fine etc however there is one issue, which is when you go from zero throttle to turning the throttle on, it seems to abruptly jerk into action, the same as when you fully come off the throttle it seems to Jerk off. What I mean is that from on and off with the throttle is not very smooth it jerks on and off, which is fine if you are hammering the bike and going at high speeds and high revs and riding hard. But if doing slower technical stuff either in the city or on the trails and tight trails and stuff, this throttle response is rather annoying and also unstable especially when coming on or off the throttle in corners. Do you know of any tuning settings or way to smooth this out? Thanksss

[@Scoottoots]

The EJK unit does not alter idle mixture at all, so adjusting the ejk may not help, but you could try to lower the green cruise setting just a bit to lessen the enrichment for steady cruising. You don't need much enrichment for that anyway. It may help a bit. Also, make sure the Green/Blue setting is left at the default according to ejk. Lowering that number will begin whatever enrichment you set in the Green setting, earlier in the throttle position, rpm, and load, which can cause too much power too quickly. If the snatchy throttle began after the mods, checking that setting may help. If it is set at default, then you can try raising it a notch and test. Another approach is to try a throttle tamer. They make the throttle less sensitive at the lower end by changing the shape and size of the cam the cables ride on when you twist the throttle. A lot of fuel injected bikes have this issue from the get go, which is then pronounced when mods are done. Also, if you have fat grips, that will exaggerate the issue. Hope you get it solved.

[@DigitalSamTV]

@@Scoottoots great info and much appreciated mate. I will try it out someday soon

[@usdohs]

I liked your explanation, but... EJK recommends G/B to be set at 1 no matter what mods you have on the bike. Tough to believe you shouldn't go below 4. 4 is the lowest they recommend for Y/B and R/B

[@Scoottoots]

Maybe you are thinking of another bike. Dobeck's recommendation for Green/Blue setting on the crf250l is 5. Yellow/blue is 4, and red/blue is 4.5

[@usdohs]

You're right, I'm retarded. I have cruisers in mind, I wasn't thinking!

[@rfk76]

Hey Scoot, once again - thank you for that video. Very useful. I would appreciate your advice as I have two issues with my current EJK settings. My CRF 250 has K&N air filter and a full RS-4 Yoshi. Current EJK settings are: 1.5 - 2.5 - 5 - 4.5 - 3 - 3.5. 1. Engine occasionally stalls, even when it is warmed enough, so I am planning to change my green/blue back to EJK factory 5. That is the correct direction in my case, am I right? 2. I noticed black deposit at the end of the exhaust pipe and listening to your video I understand that probably the mixture is too rich, but I am not sure which setting I should change. Red (Full throttle) would be my guess, but I am not sure. What would you recommend? Thanks!

[@Scoottoots]

Hey Rafal, You didn't mention if you have also opened up your air box. If your air box is opened out by removing the snorkel and opening out the top hole using a larger diameter snorkel, or removing the snorkel and drilling a couple 3/4" holes beside the snorkel, then your setting should not be too rich for your mods. If your air box is stock aside from the K & N filter, then opening it out will likely improved things. You didn't say when your engine stalls, but if it stalls when coming to a quick stop at a light, that can be caused by too low a setting on the Green/Blue as you mention, but your setting is not too low. That said, setting at the default of 5 is a good idea. Many owners have a stalling issue at lights even without mods. Something to do with the idle mixture likely. You can't alter the idle mixture though. The ejk does not affect idle mixture. The idle rpm however can be altered though Honda doesn't want you to do that. There's a set screw at the throttle rocker where the cables attach. I have not ventured into that so I do not have directions for you. There are descriptions of that online though if you Google it or ask in the CRF250L owners FaceBook group. As for the black deposit, it depends on the color of black and the texture. If it is a fluffy jet black that comes off on your finger at the slightest touch, then you're likely a bit too rich. If it is a dark grey and less easily transferred to the fingers, then it is okay. Your setting should be fine with your mods unless as I said, if you haven't opened the air box for more intake. One further note: If you are in a cold winter climate and are running through the winter, bear in mind the bike will run quite a bit richer in the cold weather, even when fully warmed up. Hope some of this helps.

[@rfk76]

​@@Scoottoots Thank you very much for your answer, so full of knowledge :) 1. My airbox has not been modified, snorkel is also the factory one. As I sometimes play in mud and water, I decided to keep it that way. So, the only modification to air intake is the K&N air filter. 2. Yes, the engine stalls (or more often I feel it is very close to stalling) when rapidly closing the throttle and coming to a stop (like the red light situation or even sometimes off-road after hill climb kind of situations.) Today I have switched Green/Blue to 5 and I will observe the results. The stalling began after adding EJK, I have never experienced that before that. I will keep the idle rpm change as a last resort for now. But thank you for the suggestion. 3. In regards to black deposit: I was installing the Yoshimura spark arrestor today (SA-13-K-1) and I took the factory insert out. This is how it looks: tinyurl.com/y6lhyoeh As you can see this is a dry black deposit that comes off easily just by touching. And yes, I am from Poland, now it is winter time and temps are low… So I will keep the current setting and observe it from Spring again. But if it will be still that black - I should start with lowering Red, right? Again, thank you very much for your help. This kind of knowledge sharing is priceless. All the best and have a great 2021!

[@Scoottoots]

@@rfk76 I would open the air box for sure. You can remove the stock snorkel and cut the hole out larger to accommodate a larger diameter snorkel using 2" flexible rubber elbow from a hardware store. You have to remove the snorkel then place the elbow against the air box lid and squish it to fit the shape of the lid and trace a line around the elbow altered shape, then cut that opening for a snug fit and squeeze the elbow in there. Cut the length of the elbow down at an angle to fit under the seat. This way you have the proper air intake and no issues with water entrance unless you're really underwater. You'll see how I did that on some of my videos showing the area beneath the seat. I also drilled a couple 3'4" holes next to the new snorkel for fine tuning the intake. Tape them up if not required. You do need more intake with that full system Yoshi. The spark arrestor btw is more open than with the stock Yoshi low volume insert installed. Even more need for intake air. As for what setting to adjust, you normally begin with the setting representing the majority of throttle input unless you know specifically where in the throttle/load range you are rich, and that would be the Green setting for most riders. Your green setting is already as low as you should go. Really, I wouldn't lower your settings at all. I think if you open the air box and keep in mind the cold weather affect on mixture, you'll be okay in spring and summer.

[@rfk76]

@@Scoottoots Ok, thanks - I will go for that 2" flexible rubber elbow snorkel mod then :) much appreciated, cheers!

[@booobies11111]

@@Scoottoots Hiya Scoot, stumbled across your videos after a extensive search of decent reviews of these bikes. I'm glad to have found your ejk video in particular. I am purchasing a used 2014 crf250l, it has intake, exhaust, headers and ejk. I've noticed people like to go down a tooth in front and 2 up on the rear sprocket for better acceleration and use offroad. I will be doing some light offroading but mostly commute to work. I am wondering if perhaps going the opposite way with gearing for a higher top speed. I would like to keep the revs lower on the highway. I also noticed that 6th gear is quite tall and has a theoretical top speed of around 150km/h so perhaps taller gearing would have it struggle to get to 110-120 km/h? What ejk settings would you recommend for increased fuel economy? Also did you have any issues installing that aftermarket fuel tank? I have seen a fellow youtuber have a horrible time trying to fit it and they ended up returning it. It may have been a different brand, I'm not up on my brand names for these bikes. Seeing that the 2014 doesn't have a tach, I will be adding a hour/tach to it as well as a rad temp gauge. Any input regarding this in terms of install? I am also in search of a windscreen/ fairing. I came across someone making them out of a garbage can and looked quite nice at the end. The video was not very descriptive and left me with more questions than what I had before. Sorry for the lengthy post, looking forward to your reply and future videos

[@Slim-dn4uz]

Help! I screwed around and changed the settings and dont know what i was doing. I have a full fmf Q4 and a drilled out airbox, i dont need perfect settings but i want it set good on a crf250L

[@Scoottoots]

Hey Slim, begin with these then adjust only if you need to. These should give proper mixtures and performance :-) green 2 yellow 3 red 6 green/blue 5 yellow/blue 4 red/blue 4.5

[@preston5947]

@@Scoottoots you are the only person I found that could explain an ejk controller for us newbies 😂 thank you so much!!

[@Scoottoots]

@@preston5947 Glad it helped :-)

[@fredblogsmac.5697]

Hi My Friend, iv got the full converstion , it came like that when i got it, my problem is money, iv enlarged the front spoket to slow the engine and save fuel, iv gone up 2 teeth from standars and there been no improvment in econemy. the silincer is boot police black not at all tann pure carbon black like way too rich. ann advice to save fuile without wrecking the engine,, thanks

[@Scoottoots]

I would first check what the settings currently are. The Dobeck recommended settings (through dyno testing for best power) on full stage one mods are: 3, 3, 6, 5, 4, 4.5 If they are higher than that, start by reducing to those settings. If your current settings are at the recommended, you could try using: 2, 3, 6, 5, 4, 4.5 . That's just a tad leaner on cruise. You can go leaner though with: 1.5, 2.5, 5, 5, 4, 4.5 This leans it across the load and rpm ranges, but no where near overly lean. The first number (green setting) controls cruising with steady throttle. It doesn't affect idle by the way. So that first number will give you the most affect on economy. I suspect you cruise a lot vs throttling on hard, so I think the last set of numbers I gave here will work best for you. Also make certain your O2 sensor is plugged in. The plug is located on the frame in front of the engine cover. Hope that helps. Keep me posted.

[@fredblogsmac.5697]

@@Scoottoots Wow thaks so mutc ill give it a go when the weather alwls, im dexic so ill try.. thaks again..

[@John-o6v4h]

1.5 is the stock seting

[@Scoottoots]

If you mean the setting that disables the EJK from adding any fuel, so leaving the mixture stock, it is .5, not 1.5. The first three settings to ADD fuel to the mix on a totally stock bike would be 1.5, 1.5, 2.5. The 2017+ model years have a different model ejk that may use other settings.

[@srizetkarma3207]

I have a 2013 CRF250l with FMFQ4 exhaust without MB or PB header and EJK only, current mileage is around 19kmpl. Any suggestions to increase the mileage ?

[@Scoottoots]

Make certain your EJK settings are correct for your system. If you have just a slip-on FMF and EJK, your EJK settings should be around 1.5, 2, 3.5 (at most) for the first three settings, and this assumes you have opened the airbox a bit and improved the flow of the filter. You should be getting around 26kmpl with your setup.

[@srizetkarma3207]

thank you i just bought this bike and found that its installed with FMF Q4 with powerbomb header and EJK i will have to check the mods in the air box and filter part. thanks and great advice will be checking out your other videos too.

[@Scoottoots]

Then if it does have the full system exhaust and airbox mods, then start with the Dobeck recommended stage one settings of 3, 3, 6, 4.5. 4, 4.5 and see how it runs and tweak if needed :-)

[@srizetkarma3207]

BlastsFromTheSaddle so finally opened up the side panels, had a thorough check of the bike, no air box mods but only fmf q4 with powerbomb header.

[@Scoottoots]

Lift the seat and check if the air box has been opened out from the top with either a bigger snorkel and/or holes drilled in the lid. Lots of people don't want to drill the side cover for the air box in case they drop the bike on that side in a puddle and it sucks water, hydro-locking the engine.

[@stove6112]

Good job breaking it down.

[@Scoottoots]

+stove611 Thanks, in hindsight I could have been clearer, but it's a step in the right direction :)

[@GRACEVENTURES]

I'm looking to get one of these that has an ejk and has a fmf powerbomb. But its having idling issues. I think its due to the ejk....i think im gonna take the gamble..

[@Scoottoots]

The EJK controller does not affect the idle. Its influence begins above idle. That said, you can set the first three settings on the ejk to .5 (that's point 5) to disable the ejk's added fueling. If idle is still poor then you'll know the ejk was not the cause. If the idle improves, then check the Green/Blue (forth setting) on the ejk. Make sure it is not lower than 4.5, as a lower setting can cause the bike to stall when coming to a stop. The issue is more likely a simple fix. Could be the injectors need some cleaner through them.

[@GRACEVENTURES]

@@Scoottoots the guy changed injector and he says it runs good going down the road but when he comes to a stop it dies..

[@GRACEVENTURES]

Its a 2016...im gonna trade my old 1982 honda xl500r and 900 bucks cash...i think thats fair considering its like 35 years newer than my bike haha

[@Scoottoots]

@@GRACEVENTURES I would wonder what lead to the need for new injectors. Definitely check the Green/Blue setting on the ejk and set it to 5 if it is lower than that. Otherwise, run some good fuel system cleaner through it, such as Redline SL-1 in the concentrated ratio suggested on the bottle, before tearing anything apart. Seems odd the bike would have needed new injectors unless it has very high km's on the clock. Maybe bad fuel sitting over winter or something? The guy could lie to you of course, but I would ask some pointed questions and gauge how he answers.

[@GRACEVENTURES]

@@Scoottoots he said he did the injectors trying to solve the stalling issue

[@harrisonsears]

Thank you for your video!! trying to figure out why mine with megabomb header, fmf exhaust and intake, why it makes me reek of gas when i get done riding. I will try this. What has tank is that?

[@Scoottoots]

The tank is 3.1 US gallons. One of the best mods IMO. That's strange you smell gas after riding. Hope you get it sorted.

[@Melicoy]

Thanks but... You say o all the numbers but dont say what the difference between them or what happens to the bike... on most

[@Scoottoots]

You would need to refer to the EJK website or the instructions that came with it. I made the video to add to the knowledge beyond what the EJK instructions provide. I assumed that anyone watching this would have an EJK controller and that they have read and understood the information that comes with the unit and is available on their web site. I didn't want to repeat information. Also, this info refers to this model of EJK for the early model years of the crf250l. The numbers are different for different ejk models.

[@Zoharargov]

Great video! How would you compare this with the PC5?

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks, I guess the main difference is the PC5 allows you to control ignition timing. That's a big advantage for those that know their way around setting timing.

[@joseaklx300r6]

Any one knows if ejk from a 2014 crfl will fit a 2017 model?

[@Scoottoots]

No it doesn't. The 2017 - 2018 L/M/Rally use a different model EJK than the 2013 - 2016 CRF250L. Here's the EJK product page for dual sport bikes. Under Honda, you'll see the model number differences. electronicjetkit.com/DirtBike/default.asp

[@ACE999]

Informative, thanks.

[@Scoottoots]

Cheers :-)

[@ACE999]

I suppose the proof of the % of benefits of the costs will have to be on a dyno check.

[@hellfire08]

Watching now so I can learn how to add a little fuel to my klx250 while cruising. Lol

[@Scoottoots]

For most bikes, the acceleration and heavy throttle settings are most important to enrich. You can usually get by with a leaner mixture when steady cruising and save some gas. A bit richer than stock though is easier on the engine long term for sure.

[@hellfire08]

Ok so I was just messing with it. I added some fuel to the cruising portion of the map and it ran worse. So I took some out and it cruises smooth now. I also tried adding a little to the acceleration and full throttle parts of the map, but I ended up going back 1 dot leaner on each and it feels like a cleaner tune now.

[@Scoottoots]

@@hellfire08 Sometimes the default fueling on the EJK, if it's set for your bike's state (full stage one mods or fully stock) can be a bit rich. Depends on the bike, elevation, temperatures, etc. You're doing the right think. Adjust and test. Now give it a week or so at those settings to see how your ecu adjusts, if at all.

[@hellfire08]

@@Scoottoots yeah I have “stage one mods” and maybe even a bit more. And im only around 100ft above sea level. So I was surprised to see the original settings on the ejk were a bit rich.

[@Scoottoots]

@@hellfire08 Yeah that is surprising. Maybe the 'even a bit more' made the difference. The guys at Dobek (EJK) are helpful over the phone if you needed some expert advice from them.

[@colingordon4]

Great advice which proved to be very helpful on my CRF250L which was stalling when I came to a standstill at the traffic lights. Thanks again for your videos 👍🍻

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks. Glad it helped you. Us riders gotta stick together and help one another when we can!

[@loyalmoses1677]

Yeah mine dose the same thing... which set up did you use?

[@MartyConlanTassieFlyBike]

Hey Nice one John. My EJK arrived today and I've taken tomorrow off work to play :) :) Looking for programming videos I commend you on yours. Really informative, can't wait to experiment. Taz..

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks Marty. You may wind up with the Dobeck recommended settings. They arrived at those on the dyno. They are pretty good generally, though the Green setting is a bit wasteful IMO. But every bike is a bit different, as are riding styles and expectations, which is why a person should experiment. :-)

[@MartyConlanTassieFlyBike]

Ok fitted, adjusted and tested. Still grinning. Gosh it's an easy product to install and use.

[@mattburns545]

High pitch tone from your audio FYI, informative vid though

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks, there are a couple videos that have that noise, but only for a small percentage of viewers it seems. I have never heard it myself and I have a high end system. I was never able to pinpoint the cause, whether it was at my end or KZbin's.

[@ohmygoditsyomamma]

Fuck now that you said it I can hear it lol

[@MichelOcampo]

I had to stop this video halfway because that high pitch noise was driving me crazy!

[@Scoottoots]

Oh man, I've never heard that noise but some others have said they do on a couple of older videos. Most viewers don't hear it, so I'm at a loos to explain it. I replaced some equipment in case that was the issue. I've not heard of any problems with the more current videos. Thanks for the feedback .

[@MichelOcampo]

@@Scoottoots your video was what I was looking for, dont get me wrong, actually its the only one that explains about the switch points and all that, thank you very much for explaining so detailed, but yes the noise was a little bit hard to ignore. Thank you once again for making this video. I'll make sure to give it a like ;)

[@Scoottoots]

@@MichelOcampo Cheers Michel. Wish I could repair that video. Ride safe and enjoy :-)

[@CalDeRosia]

So weird I don't hear it

[@OrdonPL]

1,5 3,5 5,5 i 5 3,5 4,5 best

[@Scoottoots]

Thanks. So many variables between bikes, weather, altitude, humidity, riding style, and such. I've found the ideal settings at least a half dozen times, lol.

[@OrdonPL]

try it, full mod , enduro

[@michaelespinal9353]

I have a yoshi

[@Scoottoots]

Nice pipe ;-)

[@Chyanne45]

Do you make no sense at all

[@Scoottoots]

Kind of like your comment?

[@Seemeri]

On my grom I’ve been having a lot of issues with it. If you have a minute can we chat please?

[@Scoottoots]

Sorry, but I have no experience with a Grom. All EJK unit are different for various bikes, so the settings are not transferable. If you have an EJK for your Grom I'd suggest you begin with the recommended settings for your bike, be it stock or modded accordingly, that are available on the EJK website, then tweak from that point if needed.

[@pumpaupdate]

Hey Scoot trust you are well... I am currently on CRF250 2013 with EJK settings 1.5/3.0/5.0//4.5/3.0/3.5 I have FMF Q4 with PowerBomb, K&N air-filter, full air-box mods, O2 sensor dis-connected and 13/42 sprockets. I am looking for max initial acceleration in 1st and 2nd. Not concerned about fuel consumption. Please advise which settings to play with and the likely direction up or down? Cheers Ricardo

[@Scoottoots]

Hi Ricardo. The settings you are currently at seem about right. I would not go richer on the Green/Cruise setting as that won't increase acceleration. Through endless experimenting with it myself, I found there is little to no value to be had by enriching the yellow setting beyond 3 and the red setting beyond 6. Your switch point settings (last three) look good. You can increase the red setting to 6 but other than that, I think you're where you should be. I have explored higher yellow and red settings at 4.5 for yellow and 7.5 for red with varying success. At that point temperature and elevation factor in quite a bit.

[@pumpaupdate]

@@Scoottoots Great feedback. Thank you. I will have a play... Cheers