HOW TO ADJUST TURBO WASTEGATE VOLTAGE ON KIA OPTIMA HYUNDAI | 2.0L | 4-CYLINDER | DIY | STEP BY STEP

[@blueglovemechanic]

How many times have you had to adjust your wastegate so far? Have you noticed the voltage being higher or lower more often? I look forward to hearing your responses!

[@tylerknox6185]

Best video I’ve seen yet and I’ve watched a lot of these. This video isvery informative and walks you step by step so it leaves no room for error. Great job

[@blueglovemechanic]

Much appreciated! I tried my best to cover all bases. Thank you!

[@dihydrogenmonoxide3252]

Great video, just what I needed! Thank you very much for your attention to detail, especially for the rag under the retaining ring. Otherwise you won't find it later.

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@dihydrogenmonoxide3252 thanks for the kind comment!

[@sotla]

thanks for the video, very useful. Note an E-Clip 5/16 works as a replacement if you lose the original clip.

[@blueglovemechanic]

Much appreciated!

[@wyattecollard9213]

I haven’t seen many sensors you have to adjust since obd1. I love doing voltage adjustments. Good job making this known

[@blueglovemechanic]

Thanks for the kind comment! Please be sure to like and subscribe!

[@tmccully127]

Thank you your video is the most informative I have found on this issue so far. The actuator plug (yellow wire) is located under the air inlet pipe on a 2015 sonata if that helps anyone

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@tmccully127 thanks for the kind comment and your contribution to the other diy'ers!

[@yvonneboutin5152]

Your awesome teacher when it comes to working on cars

[@blueglovemechanic]

I greatly appreciate your kind words. I made these videos in hopes that everybody could follow and understand. Thank you

[@navahm01]

Great help, thanks

[@JoseGonzalez-je5js]

Very good video vey informative and well explained..would you let us know where to buy a basic tool to get the job? I meant the computer you are using..thank you brother

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hey there. Thanks for the comment. I updated the description of this video to include the amazon link for the foxwell diagnostics scan tool. Ill be adding more links to all of my videos going forward. Thanks for the support!

[@whoaaanelly65]

I wish I had seen a video of when you replaced the turbo. I'm going to see if you did one. Fitting that 12" round hole into 7" square hole was quite, let's say, a challenge. Anyway, I am curious. I just did a turbo swap on my wife's 2012 Optima EX because I thought the code it threw (P259f) said it was bad... Coinciding with a low-oil incident we had a week earlier which threw the same code. A nieve assumption based on minimal definition on P259f out there. Considering it drove a week between each incident just fine, I assumed an oil-starvation issue. I was very surprised when the turbo spun freely when I got it out. But I wasn't about to wrestle the old one back in. By God! It Was Bad! And even if it's not - that new one is going back in. Money be danged. So, new turbo, which came with a new actuator, measured 1.23 volts after not fixing P259f. Honestly, as your video exhibited, I may have had the engine running and not in accessory mode as you explain. And I am not sure if that has an effect on the reading. So will reassess in the morning in lieu of expecting an answer by then, if at all. Anyway, I am curious what your new turbo setup read when installed? Mine had all the joints dabbed with paint, which (to me) said "We preset this in the factory and you should not need to adjust this." But clearly, you did. So yeah, curious. Thanks, if you can.

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hey there. In all honestly i tried taking video of the turbo swap but due to the horrible placement and the need to contort my body i became too aggrevated and stopped recording. Certain tasks are much more video friendly than others lol. Anywho, i have not seen the code you mention before (P529f) however, upon a quick search, it appears people are pointing towards the wastegate actuator and potentially out of range voltage which is what im assuming brought you to my video. You mention your reading was 1.23v? If you're able to follow my video step by step and ensure the vehicle is in the correct state when testing i'd be curious if your reading comes up closer to the ideal 4.0v. What id try if i were you is : 1) clear the code (start from a fresh slate) 2) turn car completely off 3) manually push the actuator arm all the way to the passenger side to ensure it is in the "closed" position 4) hook up your diagnostics tool or cable setup to prepare to read your voltage 5) with everything hooked up, put the car in accessory mode as mentioned in the video. This will move the actuator arm to its "home" position and give you the voltage reading you're looking for (4.0v being the target) (I recommend repeating steps 3 thru 5 after every adjustment). Im not a certified mechanic but i've fought with my fair share of car problems. I'd be curious to hear the outcome if this helped at all. If you set the voltage correctly and continue to get the code, you may have a wiring harness issue. If your turbo/actuator/wastegate are new, its quite possible you could get the code because your connector itself is bad not allowing the wastegate to function properly. Just a thought! Hope to hear from you again my friend!

[@whoaaanelly65]

@@blueglovemechanic Thanks for the quick reply. That's very much appreciated. Your video was very helpful, so I'll certainly add my notes tomorrow. All great suggestions. I do the same thing as you (details, details, details) on more than a dozen Auto-related FB and YT media. I'm a mechanic, but an Old-School mechanic. I really try, with any failure, of anything, to fix it myself. So my skill level is quite high. But lacking the "logic" of a system makes it hard sometimes on more complex systems. And dang it, I'd rather spend $700 and learn I was wrong, than $3000 and know I could have done it, really, for (say) $700, by doing it myself. But I searched everywhere (easily searched) for a bazinga on that code. So I deduced based upon the previous low-oil incident. (Kia engine replacement class-action, anybody?) To be 3.5qts low at your normal oil change interval (hey, it's my wife's car, it gets regular service, but this was unexpected) was strong reason to suspect the turbo, since it is oil-fed and it ran like the turbo... wasn't. I build old cars for a living, by the way. One at a time. I have a 1963 Ford Falcon Station Wagon about 80% complete after a complete repower, which includes a moderately built inline 6 engine, new transmission (non-syncho manual to automatic), better (type) rearend (7.25"-8.00"), new steering box, new wiring (my harness), and a few other signature mods... so I've been wrenching for almost 90% of my life. At 62... this turbo replacement wins first-place on my all-time list of most aggravating mechanical feats. Replacing a heater core on a late model car would be #2. But this I walked away bruised and scratched like I wrastled a ferel cat. You would not have wanted to be in earshot that day. I'll follow your steps and report back. And subscribed.

[@whoaaanelly65]

@@blueglovemechanic Here's an update for you. Voltage was a bit low checked correctly. 3.68V. Took 1.5 turns to bring it to 4.16, which was fine by me. No codes thrown on my test run and the wife is out driving it on a second run. So thank you for your insight on direction to adjust based upon voltage - and clarity on the testing procedure. Very much appreciated, and your detailed instructions. That said, we had already decided to replace it. Just wasn't willing to take $2K as a trade in. This is the near-to fully outfitted Optima for 2012 and still books at near 10K if I sell it. And having a new turbo will be a good selling point. So I feel way better now. And again, I thank you.

[@fonzario]

Roger M. When I replaced our turbo, I wasn’t getting the proper voltage either. I had to go through this very same procedure to set it and it ran like a charm. I used the multimeter method. Bad thing is that the waste gate went out after about 8 months and I had to replace the turbo again under warranty at least.

[@MessinaDance]

Is this the issue where when the temp changes, the turbo won't work? If I can shut it off and turn it back on, I'll usually be alright but if I can't it time and the check engine light comes on, it'll go into limp mode for a few days.

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@MessinaDanceYou'll have to read any potential codes on the car. There is a potential for the car to go into limp mode for many reasons.

[@fackeltanz]

The issue you are describing is the issue I had during Alabama's sub-zero temps this past January. My Santa Fe was limp mode for a few days until the temps warmed back up to 32 degrees.

[@FordPickUPRed]

Great video. Will any generic scan tool have the ability to read waste gate voltage?

[@blueglovemechanic]

Im not entirely sure. I know the basic OBDII code readers will only read codes, so i believe you need an up to date "computer" style tool like i show in the video which allows you to connect to your specific year/make/model. If all else fails, try the volt meter/wire technique! Thanks and good luck!

[@oscarpalacios7198]

Great video thank you very much 💪💪

[@blueglovemechanic]

Thanks for the kind feedback! Dont forget to like and subscribe!

[@antwansheffey8440]

Which model Foxwell tool are you using?

[@blueglovemechanic]

It's a Foxwell NT614 Elite. ~$150 on ebay. Great tool for live data reporting as well. No software costs etc, simply plug and play. Dont forget to like and subscribe! Thanks

[@whoaaanelly65]

I want to post another comment. I've already offered my appreciation for this video elsewhere. I want to offer some clarity for the content of this video, in hopes - if you were like me - it's helps you with my hindsight. 1) I was experiencing a P259f code which led me to believe my turbo was bad. I believe it was failing. 2) I changed the entire turbo, but, when asked, Blue Glove commented to he chose the installation of just the cartridge, which (trust me) I wish I would have done instead. Didn't know. If your turbo is dead (bearings, vane issue), a cartridge replacement will likely be 50-times easier. Ask me how I know. 3) my replacement turbo came with exhaust manifold, turbo, and wastegate actuator, the latter of which Blue Glove is adjusting in this video. My voltage on a new unit was about 3.68 volts and I needed to adjust it. The car was still throwing a P259f code after installation of new turbo. 4) Blue Glove shows removing the clip acuating the waste gate side, but in my opinion I would suggest loosening the lock nut on the left side of the rod, as shown, but instead of popping that clip, which is in a tight spot and not the easiest thing to hook and remove... Instead loosen and remove the 10mm lock nut on the actuator motor lever, and once removed rotate the rod from there. When you're done making your adjustment - reattach the actuator nut handbtight and tighten the rod lock-nut to verify your test reading. Way easier than clipping and unclipping that small clip between tests. NOTE: Only precaution here is to maintain the spring and washer when you remove that nut from the actuator (don't let it eject). Just remove the nut (pass nut to right hand while holding the rod still hard against the actuator) slowly pull away the lever watching that the spring and washer stay put, quickly turn the rod, and reinstall the rod, followed by reinstalling actuator nut (hand tight), then tighten the other nut to firm up adjusted rod length. I left the actuator nut only hand-tight until I was satisfied with the voltage reading, so as to minimize the wear on the Nylock nut. When satisfied with the voltage be sure to tighten both the actuator nut and the rod length lock nut. 5) there is a body-to-engine ground strap just behind the passenger side motor mount - ideal for making a good ground point for the volt meter. Battery is good too, as shown. Hope this helps someone.

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hey Roger. I really appreciate your contribution! I made these videos in hopes they would bring about ideas from others in similar situations. I guarantee many others will follow your advice.

[@ChrisChristiansen-u2y]

Do you have video of turbo R and R

[@blueglovemechanic]

I plan on recording video soon on how the system is set up/how to replace/rebuild turbo but currently dont have any clips uploaded just yet. Please subscribe so you're notified once they are posted!

[@ChrisChristiansen-u2y]

OK thanks pulling my turbo this weekend.. 2017 optima sx .

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@ChrisChristiansen-u2y hey again. Just letting you know ive finished recording and will be putting everything together/posting later tonight so you should be able to reference tomorrow. Are you changing the whole turbo housing&chra or just the chra cartridge by itself? Im making videos for both but wanted to check. Best of luck with your repair! My best advice is to be patient.

[@benjamingarciao4734]

Well explained! Thanks so much

[@blueglovemechanic]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@Tommy-qp7zv]

Man, I have the cousin to this car the Hyundai Sonata 2.0 and although I do love her model year look with the sleek curvy swoopy coup, and interior blue lighting, I think I like the optimas overall look better than my sonata. I'm jealous

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@Tommy-qp7zv i agree! Especially this SXL version with the ice cube fog lights. If i had an option i would have probably gone with the blue exterior and threw carbon accents everywhere but this white was the only one available at the used dealership. My only gripe is i have the white/cream interior which shows every little mark unfortunately.

[@TonyBreaksEighty]

mine was -.3v so i adjusted it, shortened it all the way, now it's .56v , i'm not able to adjust to 4v, does this mean the actuator is faulty? or just the sensor i need to replace?

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hey there. Just checking that you followed my steps accordingly to get most accurate readings? I know a few people missed the whole turning ignition on and then take readings part. If you're unable to get any higher read out however youll probably be best off replacing the whole wastegate assembly.

[@juliansdiamonds]

Great help. Thank you so much !!!!

[@carlosc3906]

And what does it do to the car? More power?

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hey Carlos. The waste gate helps control the boost pressure by regulating the exhaust gases. With engines that have a turbo its common for the wastegate voltage to change over time due to normal use which can potentially cause issues with boost and even throwing "over" or "under" boost engine codes. My video helps walk you through how to check and adjust the voltage to get it back in range. Hope that helped to clear things up. Thanks for the comment!

[@carlosc3906]

Thanks for the info, i had turbo cars bit i never had to mess with it or the wastage before so i dont really know why they do this or that to turbos, wastage or bov

[@blaze1sh]

I don't have a yellow wire. I have blue, grey, red, pink, grey and white. Any suggestions where to plug into

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hello. I presume whatever color is in the spot my video shows the yellow one is. Sorry i cant be of more assistance.

[@revealedfromonhigh]

I cant seem to get mine past 1 volt no matter what i do, any ideas?

[@blueglovemechanic]

Hello. Which way are you testing the voltage? Are you sure your meter is working properly and on the correct setting? If so, ensure you're making proper connection to the wastegate and see if the voltage changes when turning the key on/off and allowing wastegate to go back to its home position. If you can confirm the voltage is not changing, your wastegate unit is probably the issue.

[@revealedfromonhigh]

@@blueglovemechanic I hooked it all up correctly and tested the voltmeter with other sources and its working pronged the yellow wire and negative terminal many times on differing days and nothing, the actuator is new too. Got it for the same reason, the old one we thought was bad. Still no voltage reading though. Moved relays around, checked fuses, still nothing.

[@bosspranks8349]

​@@revealedfromonhighwhat was issue

[@revealedfromonhigh]

@@bosspranks8349 I know many people never respond to queries like this, but I won't leave you hangin; I guess the vehicle was staying in limp mode because the head gasket was blown and the computer was detecting issues related to low compression. The only other thing I could imagine it might have been was a bad computer. Long story short I never found out, and will never buy a KIA again. Got rid of the car, got rid of the headache, until I bought a Jeep Patriot with a CVT trans in it; That think was a headache too. Time is precious to me, so neither of these vehicles are something I will invest in again. Unless of course the Jeep has a regular automatic or standard trans, then I'm in, because other than the garbage cvt, that vehicle was great.

[@bosspranks8349]

@@revealedfromonhigh thanks fior reply

[@nickj583]

my 2.0t kia turbo looks nothing like this. The arm is on top and easy to get to, the plug is underneath and a pain to get to. the voltage at the yellow wire reads 1.83.

[@blueglovemechanic]

What year, make, and model do you have?

[@nickj583]

@@blueglovemechanic 2020 sportage turbo

[@greendholia5206]

I keep adjusting it over and over it seems to be exactly 4.0 and the check engine light still comes back over and over again wtf could it be

[@blueglovemechanic]

Whats the code?

[@greendholia5206]

@@blueglovemechanic same code p2562 and p259e with a hyundai sonata, driving me insane

[@greendholia5206]

@@blueglovemechanic after I reset the voltage to 4.0 I clear the codes but after revving the engine a few times it seems to slip to a different voltage and the error comes back, nightmare, never buying any car with turbo or a hyundai ever again

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@greendholia5206 Sorry you have to deal with that. In this case, it's highly likely your wastegate is bad and needs replaced. Sounds like it has some play and is auto adjusting due to age or other faults. What year is your vehicle?

[@apm3rk]

I made the rod longer to decrease the voltage but instead it increased the voltage more and threw a code 😭

[@samsoninthepit]

It’s much easier to adjust voltage on the actuator side instead of the waste gate side of the rod (I.e. taking rod off at actuator, loosening nut on rod on waste gate side, turning clockwise to reduce voltage/counter clockwise to increase voltage)

[@blueglovemechanic]

Thanks for the comment. I found it easier to get to the side shown in the video and less risk of losing spring, nut, etc on wastegate side. Either side will work however!

[@samsoninthepit]

@@blueglovemechanicthe problem with the video way is the clip is a major PITA to get on and off, and easier to lose. I put a large rag under actuator in case anything fell (nut did once easy retrieval from rag).

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@samsoninthepit The whole process in general is a PITA lol! Nothing like making an adjustment by a nice and hot exhaust manifold lol. Hope everything worked out for you in the end!

[@samsoninthepit]

@@blueglovemechanicfor what it’s worth my car is a 2014 kia sportage SX. Voltage was at 4.8 before adjustment. Couldn’t get it to exactly 4.2 but settled at 4.22 and it worked

[@blueglovemechanic]

@@samsoninthepit Thats great! Glad to hear what makes/models and end results people have.