How to Adjust Your Parking Brake [Jeep JK]

[@developmentdivision122]

Forgot to mention this in the video, you need to adjust both sides! The process is the exact same, except you turn the adjuster opposite directions. (drivers side = clockwise, passenger = counter-clockwise). I probably should just replace the shoes and hardware next time I need to adjust.

[@telluride4017]

It's great to see the young people being hands on . And thank you for the video

[@bennypkn]

Thank you so much! Local car service charged $100 to adjust but total failed to do the job. Didn’t improve at all. I followed your video and fixed loose brake!

[@efishe22292]

"It also helps if you let down the parking brake" hahaha, I loved the very subtle humor in that situation. I usually have less appropriate things to say when I realize I did something to save time on an early stage that wasted all the time I just saved in a later step when I forget to undo that trick, which happens a lot. Well done video man, appreciate the detail you put into it, keep up the great work.

[@developmentdivision122]

efishe22292 haha i appreciate it homie!

[@RJP-k2r]

Very well done video young man!

[@dsmith51074]

Got to adjust the wife’s Jeep today, nice video and got info. Thank You

[@topali8494]

There is a tool that makes that whole process easier called a brake shoe adjusting spoon. Simply remove the wheels, pull the access plug behind the adjuster and use the spoon.

[@developmentdivision122]

Jon Ali i think i have one of those somewhere in my garage. I just opened everything up for the video, so everyone can see how it all works.

[@ralphderkapitaen9875]

Jon Ali its better to open everything to gain access to all the surfaces -> to clean them and get rid of the break dust etc.

[@PlayscBricks]

Unfortunately my 2015 wrangler requires you to remove the caliper to adjust the parking brakes. you cannot get access to the plug since it's behind the caliper mounting bracket.

[@wendull811]

Wranglers need the caliper removed to access the hole to make the adjustment.

[@ryleyprice8959]

@@wendull811 all wrangler or just certain years? i have an 11 and im curious if i should do it this way or just search for the access point.

[@CrucesNomad1]

Have the same floor jack. Makes a big difference. I got the Jack stands too on sale. Had a car slip many years ago. Doing original brakes on 1988 yj, man what a blast from the past. Im going disc brakes soon as I get some other things done.

[@troyetherton9756]

Nice video. Appreciate you not editing out your dropping shit and kicking stuff around, like we all do.

[@JDubb009]

Lost it when you called the jeep a car. But very informative video and thank you for it.

[@twosnjuk]

Thanks ... This was really nice. I know what I'll be doing Saturday morning now :)

[@developmentdivision122]

Antonio Wosnjuk Goodluck!

[@petermenkens1303]

Vielen Dank für das Video, nun kann ich morgen loslegen.

[@USfoolsgold]

Good job and great video clarity. Thanks for sharing.

[@OkanaganOverland]

Great video. All the information you need delivered clear and concise. Well done.

[@ashleylipa2244]

Thank you! :) this was pretty good for me to follow. :)

[@timstebbins4496]

Very informative thank you for explaining

[@medardocuevas]

Awesome video. I'm trying that this week. Thank you

[@kinos85]

Nice video! I'd like to know if in my Jeep Cherokee ZJ work in the same way? The part of adjustments is the same?

[@kevogoeswild-wildlifenatur7411]

I was actually looking for the jeep Cherokee KK, but seems absolutely identical

[@CharlesMartel676]

Nice job, Chris!!! My '11 JKU is due for this adjustment. THANK YOU!!!!!

[@ryleyprice8959]

did you do it? was there a access point behind the brake caliper that let you access the adjsutment without taking off the caliper?

[@fly3601]

Excellent walk-through.

[@denvermatt]

Thanks again man! Love your videos. @JeepJeep303

[@MrJose329]

There is no need to remove the rotor to adjust the parking brake. You do have to remove the sway bar link and caliper out of the way to adjust the brake if doing it with a screw driver but you do need the wheel on for seeing drag.

[@detecciontodoterreno6856]

Excelente video mi amigo e estado buscando videos como ajustarlos ninguno daba esa información como la tuya gracias cuidate mucho saludos de CDMX

[@developmentdivision122]

¡Gracias mi amigo! Me agradece que te gustara

[@brianrichards517]

Nice to see u r wearing safety toed shoes in case you drop something on your feet

[@ryleyprice8959]

obviously you havent seen any aussie blokes work on cars.... haha

[@dalehastings7711]

Good job! Its unfortunate Jeep covered the brake adjustung slot with the caliper. I suppose you could take the caliper off and use the slot and a brake spoon to ajust, but by the time you get the caliper off you might as well pull the drum and do it the way you showed.

[@Mr--Pineapple]

Hey everyone! You don't need to take your wheels off for this! I was able to get the job done by climbing underneath my Jeep with a flashlight, needle nose pliers, and a brake spoon. It's a tight job with limited visibility but is entirely possible to do without lifting the vehicle. Just be careful not to overtighten, as you won't be able to do the drag test on the rotors using this method.

[@mattbarrett41]

Nice tutorial. Thanks.

[@jeffwalker2355]

Nice job.

[@4reunitedstates]

Thanks for the informative video!

[@Thatdavemarsh]

Those rear caliper bracket hanger bolts should be about 75 ft-lbs. Maybe it was video prep, but they came off way too easy for you!

[@grayghostjt397]

Back at it again with a good video!

[@developmentdivision122]

ryan enlow thanks!

[@nelsonenaccion4x424]

Great video my freind thanks

[@Akartavor]

Nice job!

[@grantzellner7888]

Maybe a dumb question here... but why adjust to the point of having a bit of drag? It would seem like you'd want it just shy of having any drag.

[@developmentdivision122]

Grant Zellner it’s all driver preference..

[@joeghanem6396]

Thank you Chris for this helpful video. I have a question please. After replacing the handbrake shoes (left side) and doing this process, I drove my car with no problems for a long day. The second day, after releasing the handbrake , my jeep started shaking and vibrating for around 150 meters and then worked normally. It seems like the handbrake was still on. This problem appeared twice. What can I do to avoid this ?? Thank you so much.

[@developmentdivision122]

Joe Ghanem i would double check your work, drum brake shoes are sometimes a little picky on how everything settles (springs, adjuster, etc). Pull up a picture of an assembled rear brake set up. And then compare with yours. You may have made a small mistake that is causing your issue

[@kenreynolds9726]

Hey Chris, what year is your JK?

[@whatroads4x4]

I have the same spacers if theyre from rugged ridge. I use 22mm 12pt socket..thin enough to fit in the spacer holes

[@Thatdavemarsh]

Perhaps you prepared beforehand, but your caliper bracket bolts were way too loose. I believe spec is over 100ftlbs and you cannot remove with a 3/8 socket wrench.

[@developmentdivision122]

Dave Marsh you can remove with a wrench, just tough. Torque is force times distance, but i understand your concern. Thanks for the tip.

[@battlehrfred]

@@developmentdivision122, you did not really have to remove the Caliper separately.. you can remove the holder and caliper off as one unit to save time and less work... Also it would be a good idea to remove the "Self Adjuster" and put "Anti-seize compound"and( clean up) on the threads of the adjuster and the slotted ends and Etc. TIP. Also,if you want to be more accurate and fine in detail as to getting your hand Brake lever on 2-3 clicks, you can used a "dremel tool, with a carbon Bit in it, to just lightly clean the "Inner Edge of the Drum itself to clean off the untouched( not worn) edge of the drum.., that way the drum will slide back on perfectly as if it was a new drum/rotor, you can do this if you want a very close brake shoes-to drum clearance...BTW,This engineering design was/is always an issue and this design has to be adjusted every so often.. Engineering fug up is what I call it.... ,as the self adjuster system seldom works in gravel road and muddy conditions,as it get gummed up and it is a very "sensitive system" . TY

[@wendull811]

Great video however to save time. You dont need to remove the caliper. If you take one of the mounting bolts out and loosen the other one you can pivot the hole break caliper and bracket out of the way to pull the rotor off.

[@polloffdagrill3918]

Yo brother. What if my handbrake still has a lot of tension but it still doesn't hold

[@developmentdivision122]

After you tightened it up? Check your parking brake pads, it might be too worn

[@polloffdagrill3918]

@@developmentdivision122 I never tightened it up. That how it's been since I bought the Jeep

[@ElvinRivera]

Safety third working in sandals!

[@ekimwood]

Off topic, but what can holder do you have installed on the hard top?

[@developmentdivision122]

ekimwood the gas cans? they are made by TrailRax (i have a video over that). Or if you’re talking about something else, hit me with a time card or more description. !

[@seangannon7860]

How significant was the difference once you got back in the cabin and pulled the parking break?

[@developmentdivision122]

Sean Gannon it went from 8 clicks to 5. I later went back and readjusted so it’s around 3 clicks.

[@RP-ks6ly]

Isn't there a plugged hole in thek backing plate so you can adjust without taking the rear wheel/tire off of the car?

[@conifergreen2]

Yes but it's pretty well hidden behind the caliper and caliper bracket. Another screw up from Chrysler.

[@wvlongshooter3912]

What kind of can mounts are on your hardtop? Thank you!!

[@developmentdivision122]

WV Long Shooter it’s a product called Pax Rax by a company called TrailRax. Check them out at trailrax.com

[@developmentdivision122]

WV Long Shooter it’s a product called Pax Rax by a company called TrailRax. Check them out at trailrax.com

[@adamdelay2874]

but what if your rotor won't come off because of the internal Brake Pads... Everyone wants to show you how to adjust from the front... but what about the rear.

[@developmentdivision122]

Adam DeLay if it won’t come off, you need to release the emergency brake. The rotor should be able to come on or off.

[@herbmanning8348]

Anti-Sieze and thread locker cancel each other out. I'd recheck those spacer bolts like every week.

[@SamT40]

Thanks for the help But there's no need to take off the disc rotors, the brake calliper or the wheel, There's a hole on the back covered with rubber, that has access to the adjustment screw, save yourself an hours work.

[@Mr2greys]

JK caliper adapter gets in the way. Stupid design

[@nicznica7283]

Jeep

[@victorkiselev2870]

спасибо чувак! в россии очень мало информации о jeep!

[@gesnow]

thanks good video,,

[@NYC-WRX]

How foot pounds are you torquing the wheels to ? Thanks

[@developmentdivision122]

MUDTRAIL book says 95 i do 97

[@NYC-WRX]

Chris Meacham I also do 95,,

[@Mr2greys]

Rule of thumb is minimum if 17ftlbs per bolt on the axle. I usually do 85 since I also put on antisieze (drop by 10% because of lubricany)

[@tomc8157]

Strange since since you expand the pads outwards, you shouldn't be able to get the disc back on easily or at all. Hence why the access port on the back so you can spin the tire / rotor as you adjust it feeling for the drag, then your done.

[@alexclyde8776]

I was wondering that. On my '91 YJ there was a slot in the back to adjust the drum breaks using a brake "spoon". I was expecting something similar.

[@stephenlacroix3136]

Any adjustments up by the handle itself? My e brake is useless right now

[@developmentdivision122]

Stephen Lacroix i dont believe there is an adjustment at the handle

[@stephenlacroix3136]

@@developmentdivision122 OK thanks. My Jeep is stick and kinda need the e break. Thanks for the video

[@JasonNeri]

Your adjuster is upside down. Spinner goes on the bottom, which is why when you put the screwdriver through, it rested in the adjustment hole and was angled.

[@oxmate]

should be an adjuster on the cable just b4 the diff that you adjust

[@Torrestorres2624]

5:09 if you don’t use the whole can you aren’t doing it right.

[@okchawk2k]

lol, chalk the front wheels, just so it doesn't kill me! :)

[@omarmaldonado5266]

8:25 😮😮😮😮😮😮

[@stevenwallace7767]

There is an adjustment keyhole on the backside Don’t need to take anything apart

[@stevenwallace7767]

@Kevin 2010 unlimited

[@stevenwallace7767]

@Kevin where the emergency brake attaches to it 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@stevenwallace7767]

@Kevin I can look right at the adjustment screw

[@orlandoescribano580]

And my esp bas light is on now.🤦🏽

[@johnsmind]

Funny how he used the E brake to keep the wheel from moving, yet it wasn't holding right I thought. ???

[@developmentdivision122]

John Hannig holds good enough for keeping the wheel from moving when trying to get hardware off, but not enough to stop the car while it’s already in motion

[@johnsmind]

@@developmentdivision122 Mine won't. So I'll need help which is hard for me to find. Thx though. I think I can do it by raising just one side.

[@RoaminRomeros]

"50 states brake parts cleaner"

[@ScottyCosmo]

Sorry but this "method" makes no sense! The correct method for adjusting drum brakes is with the drum ON!!! You tighten the shoes until they start to drag and then back off one or two clicks. Here if your "adjustment" is loose enough to slide the drum back on then you're not nearly as tight as you could/should be.

[@mattclark1003]

Ruffydog Pup aren’t these disk brakes tho?

[@conifergreen2]

The ads on KZbin are getting ridiculous.

[@MendoMotorsports]

What size spacers do you use ?