How to apply osmo polyx hardwax oil to furniture

[@TheSPoS]

this is the "realest" explanation/demonstration of the application of this finish i've found. gives me confidence for a table i'm working on. thanks buddy

[@elderoo8483]

Great video and explanation. Love the expression “this is dry, it’s thirsty”. It’s exactly the way I look at the wood I’m finishing. It’s been sanded, it’s dry and it’s crying out for oil and wax

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@keithcastleberry3993]

Simply awesome! Your knowledge and explanation mixed in with humor was perfect! Very helpful and entertaining information I was looking for. Thank you sir!

[@ranger5281]

Very nice level of detail... application and initial buff. Helpful for beginners or those new to Hardwax Oil. Thanks for sharing.

[@Bo-wz8vr]

really dig your approach or at least your attitude. definitely the best Cosmo video I found, I just subscribed too, I checked your spot and found out this appears to be the only video, that was sweet, really quick and easy to get caught up with your content. thanks mister

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@Bo-wz8vr I am glad you found the video helpful. I answer questions if you ever have any specifics!

[@NWMcCabe11]

Hell ya, I always really appreciate an informed/experienced person who is willing to share their knowledge and actually teach you! Ive always found that people in the trades will always kinda hold back on info or “forget to tell you” some stuff so they can stay more experienced than you..it’s almost like they feel threatened or something!! 🙄 people like us are a rare breed my friend.. I could tell that you held nothing back and helped me make the decision to pull the trigger on this absurdly priced finish...but like you said, it’s a pretty expensive table...maybe we should you the kinda expensive finish!! Cheers brotha🍻

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Appreciate the commemt rory! I made the video because i wasn't finding the answers i sought, and worked out a pretty good setup over time. I am psyched that this filled the info gap for you. I have tried a few other brands and still really like the osmo. If you have a bunch left over, be sure to put it in a smaller container or put plastic wrap on the surface to keep air from skimming over your finish in storage.

[@GabGab-yy7rd]

I’ve been using this for a while but this is the best instructional video I’ve seen, thank you !

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thanks for the comment! Glad you were able to find some helpful tips.

[@neomidge]

ㅇㅈ👍🏼

[@cdouglas1942]

Thanks Isak. I am getting ready to try my first Osmo on a small slab table. The back of the can was little help on proceedures but you filled in the gaps. Nice table too!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I'm glad I was able to help you a little. I was in a similar situation where the can was not answering my questions and once I got my bearings I thought some other folks might find what I had learned to be useful.

[@Joestacemazjojo]

I’m back here watching again as I’ve yet to be completely sold on the product. Your way of finishing seems to be the best for smaller end shops as the most of osmo videos I watch have high end equipment ( buffers) I don’t. So just coming back for another look. Would love to see the finished piece or even the personal countertops. Would like to see more videos of yours If you can fit them in. Well back to another attempt. Again thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I an glad some of the small shop tips are helpful. I had to cobble together a lot of random info and testing and was hoping to make the info search a bit easier for, well...you. always remember to wipe it ALL off at the end. I often omit the spreader card on smaller pieces and just use the soft pad. Finished pics can be found in my instagram feed a while back @isakziegner_design. Look for the blue and heart inlay. Cheers, isak

[@chandlerkeyes3955]

This was really good information. I've built a desk based off the steps from Cam at Blacktail Studio and this really fills in a lot of information gaps. Good video!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

i am psyched to hear you built a desk! I'm glad I was able to contribute.

[@MinHongJiwoodstudio]

hi..I got to use osmowax after watching your video.Thank you for being an inspiration to me.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thank you for leaving a positive comment! I hope you had great results with your finishing.

[@SeasideSilence]

Awesome video. Covered pretty much everything I needed to see and found an answer to an additional question in the comments. Thanks!!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Right on, glad you found some of it helpful. thanks for taking the time to comment! Appreciated.

[@MellorWoodworks]

Great tips, thanks for breaking it down and helping newbies understand it!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thanks for the positive comment and good luck out there!

[@motsigman]

been using Osmo for about 15 years, pretty much as easy as it gets.

[@PatioJ]

First time user with Osmo. Thank you for sharing your video. Beautiful table. I’m just now finishing a small desk.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Glad you found the video helpful! What type of wood is your desk?

[@PatioJ]

It’s a natural edge spalted flame maple. So far it’s turning out beautifully! Wish I could send a picture.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@PatioJ oh, that sounds amazing. I am on instagram @isakziegner_design. You could dm me if you have an account! There are a lot of great woodworkers active on insta.

[@PatioJ]

Isak Ziegner see you there!

[@BriCam1]

Hi Isak, great video. I am about to apply this product to exposed red cedar beams on our ceiling. I have sanded it all down to remove the original stain, leaving the exposed wood. Any tips on applying it on long 14ft beams? I was going to use a roller, then go back with a rag to remove the excess oil. Thank you in advance!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would use a foam thin roller and Cedar will soak up a lot of finish so you may do a coat that soaks in and then a second coat later.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

You may Look into other osmo products such as thin oil or specialty architectural finish. I think you can come up with a strategy that involves no need to wipe. The Cedar is going to soak up a lot of finish and you shouldn't have any puddling

[@ChrisFranklyn]

This is good to see. I've had some bad results on some oak which I've had to sand completely back now, however it seems I'm simply not putting enough effort into removing it and buffing at the end of each coat. So this video is invaluable to me :) Thanks.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yeah, finishing can be quite a journey. You definately remove all then finish from the surface with this type. Sort of confusing when other finishes are all about creating a finish on the surface.

[@HardProduct]

​@@isakziegnerdesign Oak is really hard to finish for sure but if you get that finish it will look outstanding. Great video!

[@neomidge]

하드왁스오일 사용법 알려주셔서 감사합니다! 정말 도움이 많이 됐어요👍🏼💙🙆🏻

[@isakziegnerdesign]

😎

[@jparson3309]

Great job my friend I’m impressed. When you were talking about wet sanding to fill the pores you got my attention what grits of paper did you use. Thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

For wet sending item to use a cork or wood block and a piece of sandpaper that can survive wet sand. I use a grit that is the same as my final grit or higher so 220 is usually my final Grit and I would consider using 320 as well just not something that would leave noticeable scratch patterns. Once I am done wet sanding and have a slurry on the table I Wipe it off with a plastic card and a bit of a squeegee action so it leaves the poor's filled. The next day when it is all dried you need to sand it back a little and it can be helpful to go down a grit so maybe 180 or 150 if you are finding that it is hard to sand back efficiently. Then apply a final coat with the normal process rubbing it in and then buffing it off completely.

[@dodgygoose3054]

That is a beautiful piece of timber, love the finish.

[@ericmorris9660]

Thanks so much Isak! I thought the first coat went well and looks good on my osmo, but the second coat is looking streaky…almost like nothing is soaking in. Any ideas? Maybe I didn’t wipe off enough from the first coat…wish I would have found your video first!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The 2nd coat always feels very different than the 1st because the wood is close to sealed and very little soaks in on the 2nd coat. It should feel as though someone has waxed and buffed the table as you finish your 2nd coat. No finish at all should be felt, just feels like waxed wood. Go ahead and sand back the streaks and then and then reapply your 2nd coat. This is actually a method of pore filling and shouldn't be aproblem as long as you are able to sand off the remaining finish that dried and left streaks.

[@ericmorris9660]

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you so much!!

[@marylouniebrugge9174]

Would like to see the second coat with the wet sanding and re-applying!!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, that process has a few more steps and i will try to create a video if i do it again. I do not do that process very often.

[@mayukajayasekera658]

Thanks man, really good explanation. I'm going to try your method on my furniture!

[@Bespokebyjordan]

very helpful! was concerned on my application method. but this reassures me! thanks for the post

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Happy to hear this was helpful. You can't go too far wrong as long as you make sure to remove all the finish at the end.

[@AmirSoltany]

Thanks right now I have Osmo on one hand and an LED with wood and resin on another hand, I follow your method, I hope work very well

[@gregorydgeorge68]

There seem to be different flavors of the Osmo. Are you using clear matte? Satin? Thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Clear satin 3054

[@ClintonCaraway]

I need that jointer!! Very nice!! Please do a video showing that jointer.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The jointer is sweet. Old crescent 12". Pre electric motor. I estimate it is 1918. I am going to do a video one day as i had very little luck finding much info when i put this one together... thanks for the encouragement!

[@chrisswartzwelder8494]

Can you put it over a stain? Great video.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, it goes over most stain and also comes in colors. I have used it over general finishes dye stain with good results. Just keep in mind that a repair may be hard to bend later.

[@chrisswartzwelder8494]

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you.

[@dannywestgate7652]

Great video. Not finished much and it scares me. Feel a bit better now I've watched this. Would you also finish the underside of the table?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

This is a great finish to start with. It is so easy and forgiving. Just always be sure to completely wipe everything off the surface when you are done. Absolutely finish both sides. If you only finish one side then the weather effects each side differently and you will get uneven wood movement causing cupping or cracking potentially. The same rule applies to veneering, or even planning a piece of wood. Ideally whatever you do 1 side you must also do to the other side so that the forces and movement are even between top and bottom.

[@dannywestgate7652]

@isakziegnerdesign thanks alot. I did think I should do both Sides because of cupping. Every day is a learning day.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@dannywestgate7652 It is a fun journey and learning experience. Always ask as many questions as you could think of!

[@lawrenceandrews7634]

I built a epoxy resin table out of black walnut. I used Rubio Mono to finish buy there is no shine to the wood. Can I place a Osmo Polyx glossy over the Rubio to help pop the grain. Great video

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The rubio is a similar class of hardwax finish. You could certainly top it with an osmo product if they make a glossy version. I tend to use satin amd matte. Any polish or wax that is glossy may work. Just be careful of waxes that are not the color of the walnut as they often pack in to the open pores.

[@LUXSUSOFFICIAL]

So if i follow your step. Part one. Do i need to sand the table before applying second coat ? And what grit should it be ? Before i apply second coat ???

[@isakziegnerdesign]

There is no need to sand between Coats with this type of a finish. Just be sure to buff all the finish off at the end of each coat so there is no residue on the surface. This is very different from a film finish like varnish that leaves a film and you need to send it to create texture so each layer would adhere to the next one properly. You will notice that after your 1st coat you only need a very small amount for additional Coats because the wood has soaked up most of what it will absorb in the 1st coat and the additional Coats just add a little bit more protection. I recommend at least 2 Coats as the feel after the 1st coat is never quite as silky and nice as what you get from 2 Coats or more. It is possible to sand between Coats but I would definitely use a grit that is a higher number than what your final grit was for your furniture finishing. Maybe 320 or 400 or even 600. The only time I sand osmo is if I have done a wet sending pore filling coat and left a little residue on there to fill the pores. Then I stand back before adding the next coat.

[@tonymilone5458]

Thanks very much for this demonstration! I have a table I am refinishing for my daughter and some leftover hard wax oil from our flooring I will use. I love the product. It's a great finish. Also, the floor finish is about six years old now and is ready to be renewed. I'm trying to find info on how best to handle that. I guess I could apply a fresh coat on top or wonder if there is a buffing process I should follow first. If you have any info on how to handle that would very much appreciate it. Thanks again for the video!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

A good cleaning is generally all that is required before re-application. You should lightly sand out any damage or defects that need to be remedied, then go ahead and reapply! That is the beauty of this system. It is easy to maintain amd does not need to be stripped off like failing polyurethane type coatings.

[@kevinwong1503]

Thanks for sharing! Beautiful table. I'd love to see more video like this from you.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Are there any particular subjects or aspects that you would like to see a video about?

[@kevinwong1503]

@@isakziegnerdesign Projects that you're working on and any tips you could share should be great!

[@nickbisson8243]

@@isakziegnerdesign any epoxy projects and woodworking/finishing video would be awesome. Kuddos for a very well presented video in one take

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@nickbisson8243 haha, content production is a whole seperate full time job. I tried the one take cell phone video and it seemed to work out well enough. Only so much time in a day.... i am thinking i will do some videos on filling voids with epoxy and creating interesting fills. Seems like folks could pick up a few tips from the things i have discovered over the years in that arena.

[@lattejiu]

I humbly recommend that you create more videos like this, since your work is amazing! Easy to follow, straight to the point, and full of personality; I was able to watch through the entire video, while being throughly entertained. Now I feel much prepared to start on my wood working project! Just a quick question: I saw that for other posts you mentioned, the osmo hard wax can be applied with wood stains, as long as the other wood stain product doesn't seal the wood , which prevents the hard wax from working effectively. I realized the Minwax interior wood stains actually seal up the wood after drying...so by your words, this product should be avoided? Is there a wood stain product you could recommend that doesn't seal, which means it can pair well with the hard wax application?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Hi tommy. Thanks for the compliment. I suspect the minwax stain does not actually seal and must be top coated. You could test it on a scrap of wood. Apply the minwax and then after it is dry, put some water on the surface. If it soaks in then it is not sealed and the osmo would absorb and work just fine.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I like to use dye stains from general finishes and transtint dye.

[@lattejiu]

@@isakziegnerdesign Great test idea!! I don't mind buying a small tin just to test it out -- I save more money if it actually is just fine. Thanks for the dye stain recommendation! Looking forward to your next videos.

[@kimberlywebb5481]

Thanks for sharing. I’ve been trying to find a better alternative to polyurethane. Will definitely try this for my wood finish products. Probably still do water based poly over painted furniture. Can you suggest anything? Thank you

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@kimberlywebb5481 the osmo is a lovely option, but definitely a different category of finish than poly. Poly is a film finish meaning it creatwd a film on top of the wood. Osmo is an oil type finish and the oil and way penetrate into the wood and protect from within. They have different characteristics. Films can provide better protection, but a plastic like surface and very involved Refinish process. Oil/wax finishes provide medium protection, a lovely waxed wood texture and a very easy refinishing if needed. Let me know if you have more questions.

[@tullynation]

How did you prep the surface prior to the first coat? Sand to a certain grit? Mineral Spirits to clean? Wet the wood? Any additional prep before the second coat? Have you used Rubio Monocoat 2C? How does this compare? Thank you for the great video!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I sand furniture to 220 grit and then i wipe the wood with a piece of velvet scrap cloth that does a great job of removing the dust. Because all the finish gets removed from the surface and buffed, the dust removal is not as essentual with this type of a finish. No need to clean with any solvents as long as the piece is already clean of contaminants. I do not water pop at all as the oil finish does not raise the grain. Also, no need to sand between applications. This is a really easy finish to prep and apply and looks amazing as long as your sanding was consistent and thorough.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I like osmo over rubio as the osmo needs no catalyst. Less wasted finish. The osmo does need 2 coats usually and even 3 for a top surface like a table. Both finishes will need folow up products to maintain their look and protection after a few years. Both are super easy to spot fix and reapplication just requires a cleaning, or a light sanding if you deem it necessary.

[@tullynation]

@@isakziegnerdesign Too easy! Thank you! Now I just have to decide bt. Osmo Clear and Raw!

[@tullynation]

@@isakziegnerdesign Catalyst optional if you don't mind a 3-week cure time lol. However, the "mono" of the Monocoat is appealing. I originally was going to go with Rubio Monocoat 5% White or Natural to keep a light wood fairly naked looking (liked them both), but thanks to your video I ordered some Osmo Polyx Raw (apparently it has a 2% white pigment, whatever that means, to mitigate the slight darkening color change that comes with their clear Polyx products) - fingers crossed that gives me a similar result! Thanks again for a great video - and nice table.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@tullynation The raw sounds interesting and I had not heard of that yet. Would be perfect for the project I'm doing right now actually where client wants to retain light color. I hope you really like the osmo. I tend to stir it well and then put it in an old ketchup bottle or something with a small squeeze top. Makes it easy to dispense a little bit onto the wood at a time.

[@gihadmurad]

Thank you for replying to my other questions. I have one more follow up. I'm going to apply this to a Solid Oak Butcher block that I'm using as a desk. I already installed it a few days ago and it's "raw" right now. Do you think I would have problems if I only applied this to the top surface and left the bottom raw? Thanks.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Well, on one hand you have the idea that finish changes the way the wood moves and so you are creating an imbalance between the top and the bottom. On the other hand is the idea that yhis type of finish lets the wood breathe, and so it will be moving in a similar way to the bottom that has no finish. I would say it has a good chance of being fine if you only finish the top. You could also use a cheaper oil type finish like boiled linseed oil or tung oil on the bottom.

[@mkleu1229]

Thanks for the video. Do you sand the epoxy portion to 220 or 320 as well? I am doing my first epoxy table and worried that the epoxy is really dull after sanding and really want the almost see-through finish back that was on it just after pouring and curing.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

You sand and polish the epoxy to the clarity you want in your finished work. I go up to 1500 grit or higher. You are essentially polishing plastic as the finish gets wiped off and does not permeate the epoxy.

[@jacobherbert9160]

Thanks for video, great work! I’m looking to use this on a piece of sycamore I have for a bathroom countertop. I’ve used wire wool when applying waxes to wood and found it to bring great results. Would you recommend using extra fine wire wool on maybe the second wet coat? Or not?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I am not sure what role the steel wool plays in a second coat of wax. If the wood is properly prepped to the grit or polish you want before application, then the surface is complete . That means that the steel wool is helping you create a hand rubbed finish and is generally associated with a dull sheen like satin or flat. This osmo i have selected is a satin finish, so no surface sheen work is required. Remember, you completely remove the finish, so any polishing or buffing afterwards is about final look, rather than the surface quality or finish application.

[@michaelv6493]

Great Video! How do you work with the end grain and getting the pores to all fill in smooth with Osmo PolyX? I filled large checks with epoxy and sanded my end-grain (from oak cookie) table to 220 and it was very smooth. I did my 1st coat per your video instructions and allowed to dry for 12 hours. Still had pitting/pores in surface after 1st coat, so lightly sanded to grey 3M extra fine pad (not down to flat/smooth again but just to lightly scuff and applied 2nd coat and wiped off excess, thinking that additional Osmo would fill in the pores, but can still see some pores in surface. Now just waiting for 2nd coat to dry 12 hrs. Any suggestions?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would try wet sanding if you want the pores to be filled. Pores are designed to transport liquid, and are doing just that. It may take a lot of thin coats to fill them up. Wet sanding and creating a slurry will help fill the pores as it becomes more of a thick paste. Look into some wet sanding technique.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Check out my reply to JParson as i detail a bit about pore filling. Recent commemt thread.

[@dpeatebc7265]

Excellent instructional. Well done!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

It's not glamorous but I'm glad it helped!

[@albertshilton5336]

Great video. Really appreciated your advice. How about the resin only. I want my inlay to shine. Would I need to buff the inlay with a buffer or will the Osmo make it shine?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Is the osmo will get buffed completely off of the resin so you need to Polish the resin to whatever sheen before before finishing the table.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The resin needs to be sanded and then polished to whatever sheen you want it to have before you apply the finish to the table. If you want it to be glossy I would sand it up through 1500 grit and then polish like a car with is with polishing paste. This type of a finish gets buffed completely off of the epoxy.

[@simonmills2375]

Thanks Mate, will be trying that on a slab that I bought for a desk top. You explained it well. Cheers

[@kevbutler81]

Fantastic job!! Any idea if this would work on a concrete countertop?? It would look amazing.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I think it works on porous tile and possibly concrete. I would certainly check with the company. Try direct messaging osmo USA or osmo Canada on Instagram maybe. They may have another formula that works better for other substrates.

[@kevbutler81]

@@isakziegnerdesign sounds good thanks for the help👍

[@antb3334]

Is it important that the osmo remains on the surface for a minimum period of time before wiping off? Some links advice to apply and wipe off instantly. Thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would recommend 20 or 30 minutes to let it soak in after you are done applying and then I go back over it with the applicator pad to redistribute any that is left on the top and also to re-wet everything. Especially on the 1st coat you really want the wood to absorb as much finish as it is willing to soak up so letting it sit on top and then re applying or redistributing the finish again helps the wood to soak up more finish. It is absolutely essential that once you are done with the application and any waiting you want to do and then redistributing, that you remove absolutely all the finish at the end. Wipe it all off and then get a clean cloth and both and wipe it completely so that it feels smooth and waxed. There should be no more finish coming off. Allow 12 hours between Coats and you do not need to sand in between Coats unless you want to. You will notice on the 2nd coat that very little soaks into the wood as you have now saturated the wood and mostly sealed it up so you are just applying a little extra protection with each additional coat. Again, it is absolutely essential that you remove all the finish at the end of each application.

[@antb3334]

@@isakziegnerdesign ahh mega thanks! So same for the second coat 20-30mins too absorb. If I find that after 15mins the surface and become really tacky so much so that my lint free cloth Jams, you recommend applying a little more then removing ALL the excess right? Just to re-wet any areas that have gone tacky? Thanks …

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@antb3334 yes, you can rewet, but also it is just fine to remove once you feel it has absorbed. Better not to waste finish. Maybe just give it 5 minutes after the first coat. If it is hot weather, it is good to remember that it dries much faster!

[@antb3334]

@@isakziegnerdesign Thankyou man!

[@robertknowles3677]

Question about the Osmo over the epoxy. DOes it dull the sheen of the epoxy? I am going to be doing an epoxy river desk top for a standing desk and it will have an epoxy run down the horizontal path of the desk so wondering how dull epoxy may get if at all. I am also guessing that the Osmo cannot penetrate the epoxy so maybe the wiping you were doing with the t-shirts took the Osmo off the epoxy?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Ideally you complety remove the finish from the epoxy. There should be nothing left on the top of the surface when done. As epoxy is non-porous and does not absorb the finish, there should be almost no change. Be sure to sand and polish your epoxy to the final look you want prior to finishing. Black forest wood co may have some tips for you as they do a lot of the epoxy river tables.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Rubio is also wax and oil like osmo. Pallman magic oil as well. I see minwax has one out now. Odies oil is similar. Rubio relies on a catalyst to dry quickly and should have a 1-3 year service requirement like all these harwax oils. Easy to repair. Easy recoat. Much longer interval and better protection than just a wax or just an oil finish. When to service is subjective . Is it looks dry, absorbs things quickly or gets damaged, you clean and reapply. Maintenance can be oil, wax, or anything compatible with the 2.

[@curbstalker6577]

Can you show us that beautiful jointer!!!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Good eye! 1918 era crescent 12" jointer. Babbitt head and originally belt driven. It is a sweet and very heavy piece of machinery.

[@andresmedina7670]

do you think shop towels could create scratches on the epoxy? great video btw

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Not if the epoxy is properly mixed and cured. I often find that i can SEE the scratches in the epoxy once i have applied finish and buffed. You just weren't able to see them as well before. You can check by wetting with mineral spirits or alcohol before the finishing process. Use a raking side light to help see surface flaws. I sand the epoxy to a very high grit and often polish it if there is a large area of epoxy. It can be Tricky if it is a smaller fill.

[@petehill3430]

Beautiful table and great explanation. Question: how do you deal with a situation where you can see scratches in the osmo finish? Having looked at some other videos it seemed like you needed to leave a slight film - which in my case had some very small scratches/ridges. anyway, you can see them and it's a bummer. do i need to take the entire finish off? thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Do not leave a film! Buff all the finish off the surface after application. It will harden on top but is not tough as a film and will certainly not hold up. If, after buffing, you still see scratches, they are from your sanding and need to be sanded more thoroughly. This type of finish requires careful preperation to ensure you sanded consistently as it does not hide anything on the surface.

[@petehill3430]

Isak Ziegner thanks isak. Yes unfortunately I watched some other videos and they recommended wiping off with a white pad which when I did it still left some very thin ridges. So no I can still sort of see them in "raking " light. I'm up to 4 thin coats - hoping the ridges (really just lines) would go away. If not would you recommend taking it all off? I will definitely use your technique the next time around.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@petehill3430 sand it back until the ridges go away, then do one final coat with a complete buff off. You may have succeeeded in filling some pores this way like with wet sanding.

[@petehill3430]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks. That worked out well. Than an again for the clear demo- I'm much more confident with using osmo now

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@petehill3430 i am so very happy to hear that my experiemces were able to help you a bit! Have fun out there!

[@GrahamGphotoParker]

Great vid. Would you put finish on underside swell to stop possible twisting?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I am not completely sure I understand your question. If you are asking whether I would finish the backside then the answer is yes.

[@donnaann8943]

Awesome. Getting ready to seal up some Acacia long grain butcher block countertops with matte finish natural. Is a wet sand necessary for a third coat and, if so, how long is the dry time before adding layer #3? I know the finish is not cured fully for about two weeks, but I don't want to screw it up with a 3rd layer. Gorgeous table, I'm looking at the work of an artist. Thanks!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Wet sanding is just an option, not something required. You can apply as many coats as you like but generally 3 is already over what is needed. Wet sanding is quite messy and requires sanding back after 12 to 24 hours drying.

[@Joestacemazjojo]

Great video, well explained. My question and concern is I’d like to finish both the bottom and top with first coat in a single day just to leave no room for cupping or twisting. Any suggestions? Obviously I care much more about the top but do not want a customer seeing a half a job on the bottom either. The first time I used this, I did miss some drips and as I began with bottom of table, set over night, once I flipped it, obviously like you said you could see those drips hardened. Any step by step help other than what you explained would help. Thanks for the help

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I agree that it is nice to get both sides sealed up at the same time. I like to finish the bottom first including the edges, then buff completely and flip. I put it up off the bench on thin clean strips of wood to allow for air flow. Then i proceed to finish the top. Be sure to triple check for drips after buffing.

[@Joestacemazjojo]

Isak Ziegner thanks for extremely fast response. Great help.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@Joestacemazjojo no problem! Happy to contribute and share!

[@theresalanghofer209]

Question. We are finishing our stair treads with the OSMO PolyX. Any tips?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

For stairs i do not sand as much as furniture. I stop at 100 or 120 grit. Otherwise they are too smooth and the wax makes them feel quite slippery.

[@roberthiday3342]

Thanks for the great video. I am about to do a large Guanacast dining room table as my first Osmo Polyx project. I have it sanded and I’m pretty happy with the surface, but found that there is still a very fine amount of dust from the sanding even though I used a Festool sander attached to a Festool vacuum. I have brushed it but still feel that there’s too much sawdust. Should I clean the surface with mineral spirits or something like that before I apply the Osmo? I get the impression from the beginning of your video that the dust is really not a problem. Am I understanding you correctly?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The bottom line is that you will be fine with a little dust because you are wiping the finish off completely.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I usually remove dust with compressed air from my air compressor and then a piece of scrap velvet cloth

[@roberthiday3342]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks.

[@roberthiday3342]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks,.

[@ОлегПідгайний-ъ8ш]

cool video. Need your help , I covered the table with epoxy resin with three layers of osmo polish oil 3032 and applied oil on the finish layer and immediately started polishing but the polishing nozzle takes away all the oil and there is no effect. what I am doing wrong, maybe I need to wait a while before polishing? please help

[@isakziegnerdesign]

It is a little hard to tell without seeing your table and the epoxy. Generally You are wiping all the finish off of the epoxy portions and the epoxy would be polished separately.. I would do all my polishing before I applied the finish..

[@ОлегПідгайний-ъ8ш]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks

[@ludovicdubois6449]

Bonjour, can you tell me the reference of the OSMO finish you used, thank you from France

[@isakziegnerdesign]

3054 clear satin is what i use

[@ludovicdubois6449]

@@isakziegnerdesign merci 🙏

[@ArtByKevinZapata]

Is it scratcher resistant? Does it yellow overtime and do you ever need to reapply?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The finish does not yellow overtime but it is an oil finish so it gives the wood a nice deep color and character. Oil and wax finishes don't add any real scratch protection but they do fix very easily and any repairs are invisible once you have completed they blend in nicely. The reapplication tends to be a much longer interval than just an oil finish but sooner than a film finish. I find things want another coat within 3 years unless they are exposed to a lot of Water like on the side of a sink.

[@ArtByKevinZapata]

Thanks I’m looking for a 1 and done wipe on finish for fine wooded art Without using a HVLP sprayer

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@ArtByKevinZapata osmo now makes a one coat catalyzed version of their finish. Still a hard wax/oil finish.

[@smary11]

It is such a beautiful table. Which wood did you use? Thank for the great video

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thank you for the kind words! This table is monkey pod that grew in hawaii. I really enjoy working with this type of tree.

[@simonwilmshurst2382]

I've heard the first coat of Osmo should be with the 1101 Extra Thin Clear ?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I think that is a good system. The thinner products penetrate easier and are more readily absorbed, leading to better protection. That said, buying 2 products to finish one item effectively doubles your cost. Is the finish twice as good? 2 coats of polyx is a great finish and one coat of extra thin is only going to improve things. Not essential, but a bonus if you have the funds and access to the products!

[@mcm.walnuter3479]

OMG you're hilarious 🤣 OK question. I'm refinishing my sisters teak mid-century modern dinning table. She doesn't want a glossy finish. Should I use this product the wood wax or the poly oil?

[@joelando1559]

I've got a questing. I've got a dining room table that's over ten years old. I sanded it all the way down and stained it deep rosewood and then did a resin table top pour. Three layers. Sanded from 180-320 grit. Then went to wet sand it from 500 to 2000. Didn't do another pour. Not doing a buff and wax like other folks on KZbin have said to do. Can I do osmo polyx on it? I've seen several guys put it on epoxy resin and it comes out awesome. Your thoughts?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I do not see the need to use osmo over epoxy. Osmo is oil and wax. Plastic absorbs neither of these things. That is why people buff it. Treat it as a car. Buff, wax. To get a mtte finish, remove the luster. Maybe the osmo is a way to keep a satin feel on a plastic surface?

[@joelando1559]

@@isakziegnerdesign that's what I'm thinking. Every one that I've seen use it on resin it comes out smooth and satin. And since it's sanded before the application is applied the resin does absorb the first layer and doing so allows subsequent layers to bond to each other. I've also heard that it hardens in 24 hours much like resin giving it a strong coating. I've also heard that doing a ceramic layer on top that will give it an h9 level of hardness.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@joelando1559 some notes on using osmo. Ince the finishbis applied, it is removed completely. That is essential. There should be no build up on the surface. Any film on top would be cloudy and messy and not hard enough to overcoat. At no time, unless wet sanding to pore fill, would you ever leave any finish on the surface of a product. Osmo is removed and buffed with a clean towel. The finish is IN the wood.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would just overcoat the epoxy with a 2K polyurethane by renner or milesi. Maybe pick one with uv protection. Adding oil and wax between 2 products seems inadvisable.

[@markseay2064]

What grit did you sand to before applying the first coat of Osmo?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@markseay2064 I sand furniture up to 220 grit. If there is an epoxy section I would buff that or sand it to a higher grit so it shines a bit more. The finish gets wiped off completely so the final sanding is extremely important. Be consistented and even And use a bright side light to check for deeper scratches or patches that need more time.

[@markseay2064]

@@isakziegnerdesign, thanks.

[@gjhard101]

Great video. I do epoxy river tables. Most of the time I just pour the thick heavy epoxy coat on top and let it blind you from the gloss. Some people love that. Me, I prefer a more satin natural look. Anyway, I'm doing a big ole peninsula river pour at my house. The wood is soft beetle kill pine. Wifeey likes the blue hue of the wood. First question: Will the PolyX work okay over the epoxy? I've checked on some other products and they don't do well over epoxy (delaminate, or the finish gets soft). I saw you had epoxy on this project (it looks awesome). 2nd question: Any tips on prep sanding pine? I usually work with black walnut and cherry. Harder wood is more forgiving in my book.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Check out what @blackforestwoodco is doing. Huge business making epoxy river tables. They use osmo. instagram.com/blackforestwoodco?igshid=mqi344021361 . I know there are other recommendations for soft wood. I believe it drinks up a lot more finish. A softwood table is going to dent a lot and show lots of marks.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

You polish the epozy to whatever sheen you like. It is plastic and will not absorb any finish. Finish over epoxy will make it less clear and vibrant unless it is gloss clear. The osmo just wipes off the epoxy.

[@markonious]

hey Bro, can i put this over a stain? I poly'd, sanded, stained a some knotty alder doors and can't seem to keep the brush marks off the final coat of poly.. sooo frustrating. looking for simple solution. thanks to anyone who has suggestion.

[@jenniferlangford9693]

Would you use this only on a dining table or would you use something on top of it to make it more durable?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would most certainly use this on a dining table if this was the type of finish I wanted. If I needed something with more of a protective barrier I would use a 2K polyurethane and spray it. Osmo is a really great penetrating finish that leaves the would feeling lovely and natural. I like that it is very easy to repair and maintain. I have osmo on the counter tops in my house.

[@LDBecker]

Thanks for the video on Osmo. I am finishing a toy box top made of maple butcher block with some resin inlay, so your video caught my eye. Thanks for addressing the inlay issue - basically sand it to 1000 and keep the finish off of it, right. Might be hard as my inlay is in CNC-carved letters. Just sand the inlay by hand to 1000, right? Also, I wondered about applying the Osmo with a buffer of some kind. I have the Festool buffing kit, which has the white non-abrasive pads. The Osmo product site suggests buffing by machine after it is dried.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Hi lawrence, the buffer is great and saves a lot of time on bigger surfaces. Buff until the finish seems to be gone. I would still buff with a clean cloth afterwards. On a small box i would probably not want to pau for a buffing pad unless i was doing several boxes, or finishing ither items at the same time. You can apply finish to the inlay, as it will just buff off. It helps even out the sheen, as the polished epoxy tends to be shiny. Think of the finish on top of the epoxy as working like furniture wax, as in a surface treatment. It is not recommemded to sand all the wood to a high grit like 1000, as this clogs pores and reduces absorbtion. It may work just fine though. Worth a test.

[@LDBecker]

Isak Ziegner-thanks so much for the reply- my plan was to sand the wood to 220 (what Osmo recommends) and try to sand the epoxy resin to 1000 or 1200 - I have the equipment and pads to do it with, just trying to sort it all out. Good luck with the channel! Keep the videos coming!

[@LDBecker]

Another question- I have had paint “wick” into the surrounding wood fibers when I carve things- I usually hit it with some dewaxed shellac spray before I paint. Does the colored resin also wick into the surrounding wood? Is it good to coat it before you put the resin in?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@LDBecker i pre seal my inlay area with a layer of epoxy before i do any thick inlay as i want to seal in any bubbles and saturate the wood a bit. Just brushbit on and let it soak in amd harden like a layer of finish . You can do this to the top surface as well, if clear epoxy is gping to be alright for color. Or use shellac as you mentioned. I try not to get shellac into my actual inlay opening as i suspect it will block the epoxy from binding properly with the wood fibers . Tape masking the top surface can be helpful. I make a perimeter with silicon caulk so i can overfill my inlay and not have to worry about it settling below the surface height.

[@raffigarabedian]

Great video - thanks. How would you handle a small but visible scratch? I’m leaning towards sanding the scratch by hand starting around 220 grit and finishing the same way I applied but only to the impacted area and not the entire surface. Thank you.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, just sand the scratch out and reapply finish to thst area. The finish will blend and you won't be able to see it afterwards. This is one of my favorite things about osmo. Very easy to repair and the repairs don't show!

[@raffigarabedian]

Isak Ziegner thank you - what grit would you go with for a not too deep scratch? Was thinking 220?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@raffigarabedian that sounds about right. Better to go slow with a high grit. Also, have you tried popping the damage back out with an iron and a wet towel?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@raffigarabedian you can sometimes get gents and parts of scratches to pop back out or rebound. Place a damp towel over the spot and iron it creating steam maybe 10 seconds. Try twice. Dents often pop back out.

[@craftyfecker741]

Useful techniques, thanks for sharing

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Happy it helped! Love your handle! 😆

[@jenfraser9452]

Hi, great video! I have a beautiful monkey pod dining table from Fiji. But the osmo is in need of re applying. So am I right in thinking I should sand it down to 220. Or can I apply the osmo direct to the current surface? It’s not scratched, but has a couple of cup rings. Finally, in between coats, should I sand again to 220? Thanks!!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Sanding is not required before adding another coat. It is recommemded that you very thoroughly clean the table before refinishing. This is the time to gently sand out any damage or blemishes that have developed. A light sanding is definitely ok on the table before recoat, but not required like on a film finish that needs the sanded texture to properly adhere.

[@jenfraser9452]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks so much Isak. This will save me a ton of time! Great advice. Keep the videos coming 😀

[@rodrigovillegas9163]

congratularon beautiful table please what is the name of he white pad using un getting the olmo into the wood thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

White non scratch scrubbing pads or scouring pads

[@rodrigovillegas9163]

thank

[@rodrigovillegas9163]

what grade sand paper gradeyou use before apply he osmo??

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I sand finished furniture up to 220 grit.

[@rodrigovillegas9163]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks

[@jacobcolumbus8379]

Great video and thanks for sharing. Did you finish both sides of the table, or just one?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I always finish both sides of anything wood. That way the sides are both expanding and contracting equally. If only one side were finished the seasonal wood movement would be different on each side and lead to a greater chance of warping and distortion.

[@aierkendilimulati8132]

Which specific Osmo polyx product did you apply? Is it Osmo Polyx satin finish 3043?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, that is the one. I like the satin sheen.

[@ThePapabear2012]

Nice tutorial on Osmo

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Glad you found it useful!

[@brianduckworth9876]

Is the Osmo PolyX the same as the Osmo Wood Wax finish with color? Have you used the tinted product? Great video btw.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I suspect they are quite similar products just without a color but I have not used the color version.

[@anthonyrivera7815]

Hi again after watching your I want to use osmo poly x on some hardwood coasters I made would you recommend a stain or clear finish or? Thanks Happy Thanksgiving

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would use just osmo polyx. If you want to change the color then stain first, then add osmo. It never cracks or peels and you can reapply if it ever needs to be updated and refreshed.

[@anthonyrivera7815]

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you!

[@georgeyetka7689]

Would you be ok with using a buffer/polisher(rotex) to buff off the finish once it is soaked in?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Absolutely, just use low speed like 1 in a rotex. The white scrubber pads are what is recommemded as they are non marking. You will find lots of peopme using amd recommending this method. But beware, the pad ince full will throw finish which is messy, so change as needed. Also, just a pad on your velcro is bound to seep through and get finish on your sander. Use some sort of middle pad or barrier. Vacuum is clearly not needed. Some people apply this way as well. They use larger buffers or even floor buffers for big operations.

[@georgeyetka7689]

Thank you I'm excited to try this stuff.

[@davido8941]

Been looking for a topcoat for epoxy. Looks like that might work. Any thoughts? I just hate epoxy when it gets a scratch plus it's almost too shiny

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Osmo may change your sheen a little, but adding oil and wax on to epoxy creates very little change, as you wipe it all off. Nothing is absorbed in to the epoxy. I would opt to spray a coat of 2k polyurethane over the epoxy and select the sheen you want. This adds a more durable surface over the easily scratchable epoxy. Less polishing is necessary if you top coat like this, as you want the epoxy to have a little texture so the polyurethane will adhere properly. Let me know if you have follow up questions....

[@MrSimonwilkerson]

What if you didn’t wipe off all the material and it hardened on top? Should I send with a high grit to remove it then clean it off and reapply?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Sorry to hear you are having to remove finish left on the surface. I would wait a few days for extra drying time and then sand back to the wood. You may try 150 grit and then resand to 220 once you get the excess finish removed. You may have nicely filled the pores of the wood. I sometimes intentionally wet sand and leave a tiny film to dry before sanding back like this to fill in the pores.

[@MrSimonwilkerson]

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks man. Yeah, I think I’ll let it dry a day more and sand it to get it all even again then reapply. Should be okay, right? This is my first time using Osmo’s. I used the 1101. I was thinking about applying two coats of the 1101 then a final coat of 3054 (polyx-oil). What are your thoughts on that?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@MrSimonwilkerson as long as you are able to remove the finish hardened on the surface, you should be just fine. May even be a really good finish in the end. As i mentioned, i sometimes use a similar technique if i want to fill the pores. I am not familiar with the other products from osmo, but i think this still applies.

[@MrSimonwilkerson]

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you very much for your help and responding so quickly.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@MrSimonwilkerson no problem, good luck out there! Feel free to dm me on instagram @isakziegner_design

[@antb3334]

How does the osmo work over the resin areas

[@isakziegnerdesign]

There is no real change for the resin areas as the osmo does not penetrate resin, and gets wiped and buffed off at the end of the application process. You need to polish your resin to the desired sheen by sanding and then polishing it before applying the finish to the wood.

[@gihadmurad]

Sorry if I missed this information in the video but how long do you wait between coats? Did you only do 1 coat in the video? I can't find those pads that you used after the card in home depot or lowes, I searched for "non-abrasive pad", is there another name to search for? Thanks.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

The pads are originally made by scotch brite. You could search that, or scouring pads. The other colors are more abrasive, and will act more like sand paper. I use the gray pads as synthetic steel wool. You can just use a cloth to apply the oil if you don't have a pad.

[@michaeloneal10]

Does the waxy feeling go away. I rubbed the excess off til my fingers bled and days later it still feels like uncured wax and seems to collect dust. When I use regular paste wax it gets hard and dust blows off. Feels silky slick. This Osmo doesn't seem to be curing and clogs sandpaper. Is that normal?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Well, it sounds like something hasn't gone quite right. When applied to raw wood and wiped completely off, the surface should feel completely smooth and have no friction against a clean towel. This is even before the finish dries. It feels like a nice smooth waxed surface.Unless you are leaving some finish on the surface to fill the pores there is no reason to sand at all once you have begun applying layers of finish.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

was the osmo both recent purchase and also Stirred, as it does separate into wax and oil? It should last about 2 years in the can.

[@michaeloneal10]

@@isakziegnerdesign Brand new. You've never had this problem? Got any ideas how to fix it. It's on a large 4 drawer cherry dresser with turnings. It would be a ton of work to strip, sand and finish again.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@michaeloneal10 I've never seen anything like this if it was wiped off properly like an oil finish before it was allowed to dry. Your situation sounds like oil that was applied like a varnish and allowed to stay on the surface to dry which would take a long time and result in a gummy and difficult to sand surface. I have had experiences like yours with boiled linseed oil and that is why I now use osmo. It has been really consistent and always dries very nicely for me. I am sad to hear you are having this experience and you should reach out to your distributor or directly to the company. So much time goes into our work and we deserve to have a smooth easy finished process.

[@tomeij651]

Hi Isak love the video... I’m working on my first little project making some night stands out of maple... my wife wants to stain the stands I planned on using some wood conditioner prior to staining so I don’t get blotchy spots... do you think it would be ok to use the conditioner, stain, and then apply polyx? Appreciate your help!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Works well over stain. Some people use a thin coat of shellac as their conditioner. You may not need any conditioner at all. Just be sure your stain has a day to dry.

[@SweetheartInOz]

Hi Isak, can I use the Osmo Polyx oil over an oil-based stain? Great video by the way.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, osmo is an oil product and will go nicely over an oil stain. As long as you have not sealed the wood with any product, osmo will work well as it needs to be able to soak in to the wood. Osmo also makes colored versions so you can get a color by applying the finish in one step. This is quite common with floor finish type products.

[@anthonyrivera7815]

Rad, cool Man thanks for the really good video!

[@whknee]

I have been using Osmo for a few years now. The point you made about it needing to be maintained, can you comment on that? What are you applying to the table?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Traditional oil finishes stop protecting after a relatively short period of time and need to be renewed. Hard wax oils like osmo have better protection and a longer service interval. I generally look for signs that they are no longer preventing absorption of liquids and/or a general dry look as if the wood is thirsty and not very waxed anymore. At that point I would do another top coat after cleaning the surface thoroughly. At that time I would also sand out any blemishes with a high grit like to 220.

[@lukez8760]

What is the highest grit you can sand to before applying osmo ? I like to sand a lot of projects to 1500 grit but I know that closes off the pores somewhat

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I can only say yhat you should try a test piece and see if you like the results. If an oil finish has worked for you in the past, the osmo should be a good bet. The penetrating oil may be better at getting in there for the first coat. Remember that osmo is just oil and wax, plus a thinner so it goes in better. Nothing magic about it, go ahead and run a test piece!

[@patriciahoffmann1201]

what a gorgeous wood grain

[@gibsonmac1981]

Do you use a pore filler before using osmo polyx or will the wax in the finish be sufficient for say mahogany?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Osmo is an oil and wax finish, so it protects from.within the wood. This means that is soaks in to the wood and you wipe off the surface . You won't get pore flling or the astic film finish feeling and that is sort of the point. You can, however, wet sand on coat 2 of 3. Wet sand and then wipe the surface with a plastic card so that the pores remain filled. After it is dry 12 hours, sand back to 150 or 180 amd then to 220 again. Then add 3rd coat. This should yield filled pores with an oil finish. I have done this with osmo to good results. Look up wet sanding an oil finish for more info on the technique if needed.

[@gibsonmac1981]

Isak Ziegner thanks!

[@tomaten9064]

great information. thank you for sharing this.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Happy it was useful to you. Thank you for the positive comment!

[@DrDepth89]

Great vid! Well explained and no BS along the way. Nice not to have to listen to lame music also. I’d call your vid style “ casual professionalism “. Great work, sir. I’ve been making some badass artistic furniture ... I’ll have to put a few vids up. Thanks

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Thanks for the positive vibes! Definitely make some videos! I have been suprised by the interest in this one! Go get'em!

[@ArmandoRodriguez1983]

Could you tell me the name of the product you used ? Please

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Osmo polyx 3054 satin. It is a hardwax oil.

[@brendamoore5022]

After this is finished can I put epoxy/resin on it?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I would do all the epoxy and glue work well before the finishing stage. The wax amd oil will vause the epoxy to not bond well. You have essentially protected the wood from then epoxy.... hope that helps. This is a finish all in its self, and the epoxy for bar top finish is another type of finish. Choose one. Some things can go under epoxy, like dewaxed shellac and then lightly sand between coats.

[@pitmaster4860]

Du Pont from U.S.A had a little problem with toxicity some years ago.

[@CinemaCakes]

How does the durability stand up over time?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I have been really impressed. It took 2 years around my sink to start to need a reapplication Easy to spot fix and very easy to reapply if you start to notice it looks dry or protection is tapering off. Truly a middle ground between oil finish (lots of maintenance) and polyurethane (huge task to refinish).

[@CinemaCakes]

@@isakziegnerdesign good to know, I have seen some people say that if you don’t roll it on then it can very easily be damaged by water. Thoughts?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

It seems to me that working the finish in with a saturated pad would be far more effective than a roller. Perfect for furniture sized applications. A floor would be a roller type situation due to size.

[@brasero20000]

Hi, what is the reference number of your Osmo can in this vid ? Is it a 3043 satin, 3032 satin ... ?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I like the 3054 satin.

[@brasero20000]

@@isakziegnerdesign 3054 is the one in this vid ? Have you ever use Odies products and do you think Osmo would offer a better protection for a kitchen top than Odies ? Regards

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@brasero20000 yes, this is the 3054. There are several other polyx versions with different sheens. Flat, gloss, etc. I would choose osmo over odies. I find odies to be less protective, but has a nicer smell...

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I am about to begin using osmo wood wax finish clear extra thin #1101 as my first coat. It seems to be similar to polyx, but penetrates even better for an initial coat. Then i repeat 2 coats of polyx on top of that for a counter or table top.

[@brasero20000]

@@isakziegnerdesign Thanks i will look into this Osmo Wood Wax Finish. I was asking you about the difference between Odies and Osmo cause of this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoDOfWl7mJtml7c Could you tell me what are you thinking about this ?

[@Aidenpoe123]

GREAT VIDEO ISAK!!!! Are you using OSMO Polyx Hard Wax Oil 3054 Clear Satin ? I ask because there are a lot of different sheen's and product numbers. Thank you!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Yes, that is the one that I am using. I really like the clear satin 3054. Glad to hear the video was useful!

[@Aidenpoe123]

@@isakziegnerdesign DUDE!!!!......it was the most professional video dedicated to the best top coat I have seen! I have been using General Finishes "Enduro Var", but I have seen the light broseph! Thank you so much!

[@isakziegnerdesign]

@@Aidenpoe123 i used to use GF brand for my film finishes but i have graduated to milesi and renner. That is just a different category of finish type. It has its uses. Both these brands are outstanding in their category. Check out the wealth of info from eric reason. Sooo much great testing and info on his channel!

[@gordroberts53]

Thanks very much for this. You’ve simplified everything I’ve seen into something easy for me to accomplish in my shop. Like and sub for you today.

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I am really happy you found this helpful! Thanks for the comment.

[@TheAlogoc]

In general, are hardwax oils reccomend for external usage?

[@DRHwcs]

Yeah, you’re not supposed to drink them.

[@drewjohnson4673]

What grit did you sand to? Epoxy, also?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

I sand the wood up to 220 grit and the epoxy I take up to 1500 grit or higher. for the epoxy, you get to decide how far you want to polish it. if you were applying a film finish like polyurethane, then the epoxy would get finish over it and I would not sand it to such a high grit.

[@drewjohnson4673]

Isak Ziegner Thank you, Mike.

[@eastwell]

Can you caulk on top of hard wax oil?

[@isakziegnerdesign]

Once it is dry i think caulk may be able to adhere. I would strongly recommend creating a sample and running a test before you trust it.