How to assemble a classical guitar with a Solera mould.

In this video you can see step by step how I bring together all the components of the guitar into the solera mould. Building in this way the neck angle is set with the solera.
To build your own classical guitar in your own workshop using my step by step 40 hour plus video course series visit:
onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
If you are interested in building a guitar in my workshop in Spain all the information that you will need about the 4 week course is available at:
guitarmakingcourse.org

[@robinjones6692]

Dear Pablo, It's an absolutely fantastic video. I couldn't take my eyes off it. In this video, as well as others of yours, I have learnt so much. So, thank you for taking the time to produce beautiful, hand-made guitars and sharing your expertise with us.

[@composer1663]

My compliments on your videos. I have been a musician and composer for many years. I have also done woodworking. However, only recently have I had a desire to build a high-quality guitar. I am especially pleased that you show the tasks in real-time, rather than speeding things up in editing. That way, the viewer can develop a feel for the time necesary to do quality work.

[@redkitekk]

thank you, I am very pleased you find my videos helpful. Just in case you are interested I also have a course series of videos where I show the complete process with no step missing in the same style as my KZbin videos, you can find it on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@halfabee]

No chance whatsoever on doing a neck reset on one of these guitars. Beautifully made. Far better than the American guitar construction I have seen. I did not realise Spain had such a wonderful Guitar building industry until I ran across your channel.

[@sukhee46]

I wished that I could give 2 thumbs up. Very informative!!

[@apiletal]

Maestro Requena, gracias por hacer este maravilloso vídeo. Los que amamos la guitarra, estímanos mucho la pulcritud del instrumento. Y en su caso, a la vista esta que todo el proceso está cuidadisimo. He aprendido mucho y las explicaciones dadas del porqué de las maderas (cedrela odorata) de los peones y su preferencia de distribución frente a otros guitarreros, me hace pensar que aparte de mucha investigación, hay mucha reflexión personal para llegar a realizar estos maravillosos instrumentos. Este vídeo lo habré visto ya unas 5 o 6 veces en los últimos años, y he de constatar que cada vez que lo veo, más me complazco de vez su buen hacer. Gracias por compartir su hermosa profesión.

[@vinwillcock612]

This is the first time I’ve watched your video series. Phenomenal!

[@johnelliott7020]

I have just found your videos - I appreciate the precision of how you do your guitar builds. Thank you very much!

[@LuisHernandez-yz1xb]

Spectacular video Pablo. I have seen this video a couple of times and I have to say that it is the best explanation of how to assemble a guitar. Thank you very much for the time that you put into making this videos. Gracias.

[@bubastro1959]

Congratulations for the video Sir, masterfully explained in every detail. It' s always a pleasure to see an artist at work. Thanks for sharing your Art.

[@chopsddy3]

Thanks so much. Your real time examples of these procedures are greatly appreciated. Seeing this done answered all the questions I had. I wait ,with genuine enthusiasm, your video on attaching the back to the sides. Thanks again.

[@pauloraboni]

Professor Pablo Requena, obrigado por compartilhar este vídeo. Suas explicações são sempre muito claras e objetivas, mostrando cada detalhe e cada cuidado que temos que ter para garantir a precisão dos cortes, encaixes e fixação das partes. Enquanto não for possível ir até aí fazer seu curso, os vídeos são de grande utilidade e, por que não, de grande beleza! Eles mostram que a guitarra (Violão, aqui no Brasil) nos impressiona não apenas pelo som, mas também por todo magnífico processo de construção.

[@sharonconstant399]

It is a privilege to watch someone with your extraordinary level of skill. Thank you so much!

[@nealegordon]

Awesome stuff Pablo! Many thanks!

[@huntikis]

Excellent video Pablo!

[@attuneu]

Thankyou for your generosity.

[@davidadelaide]

Great video, very informative. Thankyou!

[@michaelknepp6653]

Great video Pablo, thank you. Always looking at ways to do things better. Looking forward to seeing your other videos as well.

[@nickyork8901]

Excellent, really helpful video. Thank you so much Pablo!

[@walterrider9600]

thank you mr Pablo. your information is great

[@jerryfarrell1218]

great assembly video...thank you.

[@michaelknepp6653]

Thank you Pablo. I am completely overhauling how I have been building a guitar. Your tutorials have been a serious education.

[@redkitekk]

You are very welcome, I am glad you like my tutorials !!

[@samsantiago3283]

Very instructional. Looking forward to build my own.

[@LoganCartwright]

Thank you Pablo, excellently done and presented with clear descriptions! logan

[@rifosi]

Great video, as always. Very clear and well explained. Thank you very much again.

[@Me-fg1pp]

Buenísimo, que siga!

[@Dhammawitt]

Great stuff Pablo. I appreciate all the videos you've done it's very helpful, thanks for taking the time to do this.

[@gordyhydro5774]

Thank you for your time and knowledge. Inspirational!!!!!

[@luisvalero9876]

Muchas gracias por compartir tu maravillosa destreza con la que trabajas todo un profesional lutier desde Venezuela

[@rogelionuesca8153]

thanks! I will be making my own guitar soon.

[@mcewanschampion]

Very interesting.. Thank you!

[@alkssmith]

Fantastic!

[@owenlewis8944]

Very beautiful and precise work.

[@redkitekk]

Thank you.

[@stumans78]

Great video Pablo! 50 mins flies by! :)

[@redkitekk]

Thanks Stuart, I am pleased you enjoyed it.

[@Don_from_cairns_australia]

Thank you very informative

[@zamuelpuscio6451]

Excelente. Mejor ilustración no se puede. Gracias.

[@brucesmith8178]

Maestro Pablo, thank you so much for this video. It has really brought the assembly of the top, sides and neck together for me. Please keep making these videos!

[@RicardoMottagu1tarra]

Great video. Thanks

[@sergiovalverdecastillo5446]

Muy bueno, siempre se aprende algo nuevo e interesante viendo tu trabajo

[@pauldolden8934]

Another great video-very helpful. Pablo, do you have any plans to do a video on constructing and voicing the soundboard?

[@sebuteo]

Fantastic! Have you done a video on how to construct the solera and sides, etc?

[@eduardocamargo3069]

Gracias Pablo! Good job...excelent!

[@redkitekk]

you are welcome!

[@RoneiRamos]

Muito caprichoso!!!

[@ianbradford8001]

Excellent Pablo! Really interesting and informative

[@RKrein]

I'm just at this stage of building my second classical guitar. So I'm not a beginner anymore lol, but I watch and use, every second of Your useful and very interesting tutorial. Thank You very much.

[@BillORights1]

great work, sir we need you!

[@redkitekk]

Thank you, Sir...and just in case you are interested please have a look at www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@marjunsacro4868]

thank you so much you are the answer to my question....... God bless you Sir.....

[@johnny8dljuneau]

Fantastic video, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. Best classical guitar making videos on youtube. It would be great to see a video on making your Solera sometime :) Best, Johnathan

[@amazonwood]

Ms. P. Requena.. Obrigado por abrir uma janela de sua oficina e de suas tecnicas... nos permitindo aprender de forma concisa.

[@SC-SA]

Thank you very much on your videos sir. It is great pleasure to watch them, and also learn from each one of them.

[@redkitekk]

you are welcome!

[@harryodum5598]

Hello Pablo fantastic video! I just recently took a Guitar Building class at a community college near me, my guitar Builder in the Detroit area why you have a showing me and this video is that the so-called Builder was really an amateur. We built a Martin 000 25 guitar in 40 hours the man that taught the class doesn't know anything compared to you. You are a true Master Pablo.

[@MrJUNNY7777]

Gracias Maestro! Tremendo video y una explicación increíble. .Gracias por su tiempo y Cuídese mucho! 🙋

[@pierrecosta3789]

All I can say is thank you 🙏

[@redkitekk]

You are welcome. Please have a look at www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com Thank you.

[@adrianogomes1871]

Carefully nice! Great lesson. Thank you very much, Sir.

[@muria2584]

Lástima grande no tener traducción o doblez al español, sin embargo esta muy interesante....Saludos maestro

[@gitarrenbau-held350]

Thanks for the Video Pablo, do you use a jig for making this clean slots in the heel and this precise wedges or you just use a saw and sandpaper?

[@purdueMET]

Mr. Requena, I am an amateur guitar maker in the US and I have been enjoying your videos. You've done us all quite a favor. I teach a class at my university on stringed instrument design and manufacturing. For students interested in classical guitars, I will certainly have them study your videos. One question - I noticed a black stripe down the center of the neck blank. I haven't seen a video on how you make the neck (my apologies if I overlooked it). Is that graphite?

[@redkitekk]

Hi, thank you for your comments, I'm glad you find my videos useful. The strip down the centre of the neck is made of ebony, I find that ebony re-enforces the neck while allowing for a very small relief on the neck. I have come across guitars where graphite or carbon fibre was used and it made the neck very straight and sometimes it even ends up bending backwards. I hope this helps, Pablo

[@tubemuzz]

Dear Pablo thanks for all your videos. Immense experience for me. Can you tell what is exact;y a slight angle on the solera neck area?

[@owenlewis8944]

Hi Cemeh, in case you haven’t gotten a response yet, I believe he said that it was about 1.5 millimeters from the 12th fret position(where the neck meets the body) down to just before the nut.

[@demianluthier]

Pablo , un trabajo muy prolijo e increiblemente perfecto, aprendo en cada video. Lastima hay cosas que no entiendo, donde vives.

[@redkitekk]

Planet Signs en Malaga

[@bernardwalsh9587]

PabloThank you for all the excellent videos you have produced to date. The information is invaluable.With your solera set up do you eventually have to adjust the finger board thickness a little in order to get the correct string height at the 12th fret?

[@redkitekk]

You are very welcome. Yes, that's correct, there is always a bit of work to do to the fingerboard to achieve the final set up. I will do a video about that soon.

[@jammin6879]

Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to put it up. Do you know if the orange rapid acting clamp you used, is still available somewhere?

[@redkitekk]

Try this link www.amazon.co.uk/Dekton-DT40580-6-inch-Speed-Clamp/dp/B00EBRSOR4

[@DinoKintanar88]

Hi Pablo, I just like to tell you that I learned a lot from you even though I haven't build a Spanish guitar yet.. i saw a san Miguel frame in your workshop, i saw it on Alberto Cuellar interview with you, can you share something about it? I believe san miguel beer originated in the Philippines.

[@parnaso51]

Senor Pablo Requena, muchas gracias por compartir su conocimiento. Me gustaria algun dia visitar su taller si eso es posible. Yo vivo en USA pero tengo familia en Sevilla, Caceres y Madrid.

[@redkitekk]

Si claro, la próxima vez que vengas a España mándame un correo por medio de mi pagina web y si estoy por Malaga podemos quedar y te enseño mi taller.

[@test-gx1ws]

I have watched all your videos many times and I have found many solutions to problems I encountered in the course of construction. My next project is a Parlor guitar I want to build it with the Spanish heel method (I do not know if it's right but I like this way of construction) so I had to make a solera, so again in your video I found all the answers I needed to do the job properly. A question only, for the sides what kind of clamps do you use to tighten them with the top? Greetings from GREECE .

[@redkitekk]

Hi, The sides don't need to be clamped down against the top, If you have a good fit and the sides don't move about, all you need is to glue the kerfing blocks in place.It the sides move inside the mould, you need to clamp them to hold them firmly in place against the sides of the mould, then you can glue the kerfing block.

[@kutaydisbudak6115]

@@redkitekk do you glue the sides to the top before you glue the kerf blocks? thanks.

[@redkitekk]

@@kutaydisbudak6115 no, just the glue in the kerfing is enough. Also I have a course available on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@giannispapoulias6948]

Thanks for your lessons, please help me , i want to find a plan for flamengo guitar!

[@DANinstruments]

Hi Pablo! As I can perceive from the video, the 'bed' in which the neck of the guitar will be laid on for posterior gluing to the sound board, forms an angle relatively to the latter. Can you develop even more on the subject? The process of gluing the neck to the soundboard, has it any particular technicality linked to that angle? How does that angle improve the playability/sound of the finished guitar? A video on this subject would be very welcomed here!!! ;-) Thanks for the fantastic videos! Kind regards, Daniel Amador (Portugal)

[@redkitekk]

Ok, I will do something on that subject at some point. Thanks for watching my videos. Pablo

[@macs1lver]

Hi Pablo, I really enjoy your video lessons they are really helping me with my first Torres! What thickness are you using for your cork layer and the little piece of cork?

[@redkitekk]

It is 5 mm thick.

[@cbalyn]

Wonderful video more educational than any other about a solera. I have been building steel string guitars. Have decided it is time to build myself a flamenco guitar to replace my old Domingo Estesto that I sold in 1970 after a major car accident. what is the thickness of the cork layer you installed on the solera mod?

[@redkitekk]

It is 6mm thick.

[@cbalyn]

Thanks

[@rickpalmer3340]

Hello Pablo, I follow your videos with great interest. They are excellent as is your knowledge, skills and tuition. One day I would love to build either a guitar or a ukulele. I assume the build for either instrument requires similar skills and build techniques. The neck ends of the sides, you carefully cut to the required length and angle are essentially hidden, on the finished instrument that is. I assume the opposite ends, at the base of the guitar, which are reinforced by a block would be butted together and the join visible. How do you ensure the join/t is clean, neat and tightly butted, please? Many thanks for the excellent tuition! Rick

[@redkitekk]

Hi Rick, what you would need to do on that join is to inlay a strip similar to whatever you use for the bindings, that way if the join is not that good it doesn't matter as you would male it good with the inlay.

[@eemacedo]

Good afternoon, Mr. Pablo. In those quarantine times I was able to review all my guitar manufacturing jigs. I am following your teachings attentively on your channel. I would like to know how you shape the "belly" on the mixer? I do it in a very laborious way and I believe your solution is much better than mine. I appreciate the help.

[@redkitekk]

I am not sure that I understand your question, what do you mean by "mixer" ? Here is a video about the dome of the soundboard just in case it is what you need. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3PNZGiGfZWKoLM

[@eemacedo]

@@redkitekk Thanks.

[@wimesser2621]

Hi Pablo, Exelent videos. What type of glue are you using for the peones because this way you can not put any pressure on them before the glue sticks?

[@redkitekk]

Wim Esser you can use hot animal glue or titebond, it doesn’t matter. You just put the peon in place with a bit of glue, you don’t need to clamp it down.

[@bighank99]

Thanks Pablo for the wonderful set of videos. One question on the assembly. Can the neck and top be glued separately (in the mold and on the solera) as a first step before later continuing by adding the sides, wedges, and tail block? Or do you recommend to do all of the gluing in one step? Thanks!

[@redkitekk]

Yes, I would glue the neck and top first, and then later glue everything else.You don't need to glue all the components in one go.

[@bighank99]

Thanks Pablo!

[@user-rj4in2ti1j]

Mr Pablo if I am right your low bout is a full domed on a radius dish 25 feet..how fit the kerfings on a domed low bout??

[@pacolucia9761]

This is amazing Pablo!So, where can I get a Solera mould? Does this work for both, classical and flamenco? Thank you for the video!

[@redkitekk]

The solera mould is something you want to be making yourself, there is a company here in Malaga which might be able to make it for you but a mould like this can be heavy and it might not be practical. Just in case the company is www.madematonewood.com and you would have to email them with your request to have one made for you as I don't think they have them in stock. You can use it for both classical and flamenco guitars.

[@pacolucia9761]

@@redkitekk Perfect! Thank you so much!

[@jcmaker]

Hi Pablo, why do you use linings for the back and 'peones' for the soundboard, can not you use linings for both? Thank you for your excellent work!

[@redkitekk]

Hola Juan, yes, you can use linings for both, in fact many makers do. I prefer to use peones for the front as I find it easier that way and it is also the traditional Spanish way of doing it.

[@clarafernandezmas410]

Increible! podrias hacer un tutorial de como contruir la solera en si?

[@redkitekk]

Gracias Clara, ya he hecho un vídeo sobre la solera. Espero que en ese vídeo encuentres la información necesaria para poder hacer tu propia solera. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHu2dYZompV0qZY

[@clarafernandezmas410]

@@redkitekk Si, Muchas gracias. Una pregunta conoces algún libro bueno para usar como guía para construir mi primera guitarra? Perdón por la molestia y muchas gracias por todo!

[@redkitekk]

Clara Fernández Mas. Hay un libro que te puede ser útil, esta en inglés y se llama “Making master guitars” by Roy Courtnall. Yo también estoy trabajando en la producción de una película donde explico en detalle todo el proceso, estará a la venta dentro de unos meses. Y también, por si te interesa, yo organizo cursos de construcción de guitarras, la información la tienes en www.guitarmakingcourse.org

[@redkitekk]

Hola Clara, por si te interesa, hace poco ya he puesto a la venta el curso que te comenté anteriormente. Lo puedes encontrar en www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@57ffjjimenez]

​@@redkitekkhola Pablo Donde son los cursos de guitarra Gracias

[@541Hal]

So Pablo, Thanks for a great video! You say the neck support is angled down with the soundboard facing the bottom i.e. guitar face down? So this is the opposite of arch tops for example, where the neck would, with the guitar, in the same orientation, be ever so slightly angled up? I have not come across that any where else on the internet. Are classical guitars built with the neck in this orientation. By my calculations, that would mean you had to have a lower bridge than if the neck were dead straight or even a little bit up. I thought arch tops and some set neck guitars such as Gibsons require a higher bridge to compensate for the neck angle. Have I got myself confused here? Thanks

[@redkitekk]

You are right, the set up on a classical guitar is completely different to a steel string or to an arch top guitar. The dome / arch is lower and thats why the position of the neck is also different. Some classical guitars will not have an angle at all on the neck, and some do, like mine,and this depends on the type of construction you use. For me this method works really well and the set up only guitars is very confortable with a low action, but with a bit of room on the saddle for adjustment. The neck angle is crucial if you want to build a guitar that sounds great and is very confortable to play. I hope this makes sense. There are lots of little details that make all the difference when you want to build a great guitar, if you can, I would recommend that you do one of my courses and you will learn all of this in detail. www.guitarmakingcourse.org Best wishes. Pablo

[@mikewalker8569]

Pablo - Do you glue the sides to the top or do you rely on the glueing of the peones. I guess if the top and sides are glued together, in the mold, there is a chance of glue squeeze-out into the mold. Also the routing for the binding and purfling would remove that glue joint.......probably answered my own question!!

[@redkitekk]

No, just glue on the peones.

[@andrewhenderson9474]

Hi Pablo. Just wondering why you use the little individual brackets instead of purfling .

[@3DMVis]

Hi Pablo, great video as always, thank you. How do you achieve the 1.5 mm neck relief in the solera? It's hard to see but it seems flat and the layers of plywood continuous. Do you plane down the last plywood from 1.5 mm at the end to nothing at the 12th fret position?

[@redkitekk]

Yes, you do it on the solera in the way you describe it. Just in case you are interested I have a video explaining the complete process on how to build the solera in my website www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.con

[@3DMVis]

@@redkitekk Thanks Pablo. your solera at the body area seems to be flat and the top is resting flat before you put the sides. Since the top has a dome built in the lower area I would expect the tail end of the top to lift a little and the sides not to fit straight on the top. Also if the neck has an angle, shouldn't the heel area that you reduced have the same angle?

[@redkitekk]

The solera is only flat in the top part, the area of the lower bout is carved to accommodate the dome of the top. The angle on the neck isn’t necessarily, however if you want to take it into account it will also work.

[@deep6thisdeep6this92]

i'm like'n those clamps.

[@Fazman81]

Great videos Pablo! Do you recommend plywood or MDF for the Solera? Greetings from Dallas, Texas!

[@redkitekk]

Hi Frank, it doesn't matter too much, I prefer plywood as I find the dust from MDF really horrible, but use whatever is most convenient to you.

[@Fazman81]

PabloRequena Ok good Ill buy some cabinet grade Oak plywood and make it like that. Thanks for the reply.

[@Fazman81]

PabloRequena Maybe one day I can take your course. Are you in the UK or in Spain??

[@redkitekk]

I am in Malaga, Spain.

[@jackbombeeck4958]

I have 2 questions: 1. If the neck is angled and hinges at the 12th fret, how do you create a flat fretboard up to the soundhole? 2. This is a flat top design. How do you change the solera and fit the sides for a slightly domed top? Loved your video, and looking forward to your answer. Thanks!

[@redkitekk]

Hi Jack, To fit the fingerboard you have to plane off slightly from the bottom of the fingerboard in the area from the 12th fret to the edge of the sound hole, that way you replicate the angle of the neck into the gluing side of the fingerboard. In terns of your second question, the solera you see in the video is for a guitar with a domed soundboard. These questions are quite complex and it isn't easy to explain in just a few lines but if you are interested I have a complete course that you can purchase on line where I explain all these things in detail, you can find it on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@jackbombeeck4958]

@@redkitekk Hi Pablo, Thanks very much for your answer, that makes sense to me now. I have seen other solera's where the neck was angled back, presumably because the soundboard was a flattop and with a 7mm thick fretboard and normal classical bridge/saddle height (~13/14mm) the action would become too high. So just for my understanding: it should be possible then to create just enough dome to the top so that the neck angle is straight with normal classical bridge/saddle height and string action?

[@redkitekk]

@@jackbombeeck4958 it is possible, the only problem would be that you would need to have a massive dome to the top or a very high saddle. The saddle hight of 13/14 mm that you are suggesting is already quite high. If you had no angle to the neck you will surely come across problems with the setup. This is just my opinion.

[@jackbombeeck4958]

@@redkitekk Thanks again for your quick answer! I just did some meaurements on my classical guitar at the 6th string: 13mm at he bridge/sadle between soundboard and underside of strings, action of 3.5 mm between 12th fret and string, fretboard thickness 7mm, frets about 1.1mm. If the neck was straight and the top was flat, that would give 7mm+1.1mm+2*3.5mm = 15.1mm at he bridge and the actual heiht is 13mm. The fretboard appears to be flat all the way to the soundboard, and I know the top is domed (difficult to measure though). So if the bridge+saddle drop 3.1mm due to the doming of the top, then this would match exactly, no? What am I missing?

[@jackbombeeck4958]

I just figured it out by making a drawing. Lowering the bridge with a domed top just makes the action height even lower! So to make a good action height, the neck must be angled forward, never backward, no question! I knew you must be right, i just didn't get it until i had a picture... Unless the dome sticks out of the top. I've been assuming that the bridge side of the top is 'pulled down' at the back and somewhat at the sides. If you push the centre of the lower bout outward, then that would increase the action. Here my lack of knowledge concerning solera's shows. I don't understand how the dome is done, or how you make the sides fit the top when it is domed...

[@owenlewis8944]

Hello, Pablo. My only problem I am having in thinking about the solera is whether or not I will have to taper the underside of the fretboard when it is glued on the assembled guitar. I would think I would if I make the solera with the millimeter and a half slope as you do. Please inform me on this. Thanks.

[@redkitekk]

Hi Owen, When I fit the fretboard I plane down a small taper from the 12th fret to the edge of the sound hole from under the fretboard to accommodate the angle between the neck and the soundboard, that way, when the fingerboard is glued on it is reasonable strait. Once the fingerboard is glued on there is also some planing to do to achieve the right set up, so that the projection of the fingerboard over the soundboard on the bridge are is the correct hight. The hight I set it up is at 3.5 mm at the treble side and 2.5 mm at the base side. Sorry if all of this sounds a bit abstract, the truth is that this is a very important aspect of the building process and it isn't easy to explain in a few lines. Best regards Pablo

[@owenlewis8944]

Thanks Pablo! I suspected something like that would need to happen. I understand the difficulty explaining these things. It is truly a blessing to have someone like you who wants to teach this stuff.

[@sbooder]

Hi Pablo, two questions in one really. Do you carry your dome all the way to the edges of the soundboard and if so do you angle the edge of the guitar sides to account for dome, or do you even glue the side to the top at all and let the peones do the work, as where the sides meet the top will be routed away for bindings anyway?

[@redkitekk]

Yes, the dome on the soundboard goes all the way to the edges, and the sides don't need to have an angle on the edge as this will be sorted as we fit the bindings. I do have an angle of about 93 degrees on the peones and they are the ones keeping the dome as the sides are fitted.

[@sbooder]

Thank you once again Pablo, nobody answers questions as fast or as well as you on youtube. Brilliant!

[@owenlewis8944]

Pablo, two more questions. On the cork solera, the little block that is positioned for the bottom transverse brace, is it equal in height to the rest of the cork? What I am wondering is whether the lower transverse brace has any curve or not. I do understand how you said it is there so as not to damage the brace in the clamping procedure. Thanks

[@redkitekk]

Hi Owen, The lower harmonic bar has an arch of 25 feet in diameter, so the center cork block is a little lower than the rest of the cork

[@owenlewis8944]

Pablo, I can’t thank you enough for helping me out with these things! Now I am prepared to give my first classical build a go. God bless you

[@redkitekk]

No problem, enjoy making your guitar!!

[@abdallamusico1188]

Maravilha! Explicação objetiva. Verdadeiro e sem mesquinhez. Parabéns! Poucos no mundo com qualidades assim! Obrigado! Wonderful! Objective explanation. True and without stinginess. Congratulations! Few in the world with qualities like that! Thanks

[@jamescolekreecanyon]

Hi pablo Thanks for posting this wonderful film , very helpful. Just one quick question , when you construct the solera, you use a cork sheet to create the area for the domed soundboard area , I just wondered how you calculate that area - how big the area is , I guess it takes the flex from your already domed soundboard? Thanks pablo Jimmy .

[@redkitekk]

Yes, the domed area of the soundboard goes from about the center of the sound hole to the complete lower bout. On minute 2:56 you can see the cork showing through the sound hole.This is because the lower harmonic bar is also curved to the same arch so you need to provide clearance for it as well as for the lower bout. Does it make sense?

[@jamescolekreecanyon]

PabloRequena hi pablo , thank you for your reply, and yes that makes perfect sense , in the past I have carved the area , I have a new solera to build and I like how you make this , thanks pablo Jimmy .

[@jamescolekreecanyon]

PabloRequena also, do you use just one solera for classical and a different one for flamenco guitars or different models? Thank you pablo

[@redkitekk]

James Cole I use the same solera for classical and flamenco guitars.

[@LeandroSilva-ho1ti]

Hi, with this solera, I can make guitar of steel buckles and nylon strings?

[@redkitekk]

Leandro Silva this type of solera is only for nylon strings guitars, classical and flamenco guitars.

[@michellek5789]

Do you need to make a whole new solera for each guitar you make? Thanks

[@redkitekk]

Hi Michele. No you don't, if you want to make a different shape guitar all you need is the base of the mould which its actually the solera, just don't use the two sides of the mould.

[@robertmccollam8206]

Pablo, Thank you for posting all of these videos on classical guitar luthiery. In this video you say that the neck is placed at an angle which results in 1.5 mm down from a straight plain of the jig. I assume this is to provide relief for the string setup. In your video on cutting the slot and wedges in the neck block for the body sides to neck, your cut is at 90 degrees to the line of the top of the neck. By tipping the neck downward in the jig, doesn't that create a 0.2 degree rotation of the joint from perpendicular to the body?

[@bernardwalsh9587]

Pablo, how does your solera set up effect the side profile? I know Bogdanovich's side profile dips at the butt end on the lower bout and slopes down on the upper bout which makes adjusting the sides to glue the top on a challenge to say the least.

[@redkitekk]

In my solera the top part pf the guitar and the overall perimeter are completely flat, also, before I bend the sides I plane strait the edges that will later on meet the soundboard, that way when the sides are fitted in the mould after the soundboard they meet perfectly. I hope it makes sense.

[@bernardwalsh9587]

PabloThank you for your reply and yes it makes sense.Bernard

[@vigartmusic2737]

thanks for the video... one question,.... in flamenco guitar is the neck angle straight or opposite than the classical?

[@redkitekk]

It is the same as in a classical guitar. Just in case you are interested I have a complete course available on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com This course is for making classical guitars but I also have a video on KZbin explaining what you need to do if you want to build a flamenco guitar.

[@vigartmusic2737]

@@redkitekk great...thanks for the answer...i will check your site

[@daringetae5136]

Thank you for explaining this. Only one question I have here. The solera mold that has the neck extension, in other words the bottom mold in the video. Is that neck straight or it has a little angle so when you lay down the actual neck of the guitar on it and clamp it the finish product will come out with a little tilt neck. In the video it looks down straight to me and goes straight with the soundboard also. I know with the flamenco guitar you have to tilt the neck a little up so the action on the strings goes down. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you

[@redkitekk]

It might not show in the video but yes, there is a slope on the section for the neck so that there is a forward angle of the neck when the guitar is assembled.

[@daringetae5136]

@@redkitekk Do you also have a dome radius on the soundboard or it's totally straight? Most likely you will have that on the back board. I'm just trying to wrap my mind around it and how those 3mm deviation contributes to the sound. Thank you for your time.

[@redkitekk]

@@daringetae5136 yes, I use a domed board to assemble the soundboard to create a dome on the soundboard. Just in case you are interested I have a complete guitar making course that you would find helpful. You can find it on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com

[@daringetae5136]

@@redkitekk I really appreciate your help and advise. Out of curiosity, it's the dome feature for aesthetic purposes or it helps with the action height on the strings, intonation and so on which translates into the final sound of the guitar? It really puzzles me the feature. Thank you.

[@redkitekk]

@@daringetae5136 the dome is used to ad a bit of strength to the soundboard and to achieve the right set up.

[@ernandiz71]

Hola maestro,a la solera,en vez dr hacerle en abombamiento,que le pones alrededor corcho para no tener que rebajar la solera,y otra cosita como le haces la pequeña inclinación entre el mastil y la tapa,?

[@redkitekk]

Fernando Carrasco Benitez si, el corcho es para no tener que rebajar la parte de la tapa, la parte del mango se cepilla hasta conseguir formar el ángulo correcto en relación a la tapa. Para saber cuánto cepillar, coloca un perfil o regla en el centro de la solera y tienes que tener un hueco de aproximadamente 1,5 mm en extremo de la solera donde se apoya el mango.

[@ernandiz71]

@@redkitekk gracias y un saludo

[@dorseymitchell3347]

Is the cork there just for support padding? Or does it serve any more purpose

[@redkitekk]

Dorsey Mitchell in the video at minute 1:12 I explain what the cork is for. The idea is that by removing the cork in the lower area you get an empty space to make sure that the belly of the soundboard is not distorted.

[@igiunta1994]

Mr Requena, I have one question: how do you shape the "belly" in the soundboard?

[@redkitekk]

Hi Ignacio, I use a radius dish where a press the struts in as I glue them to form the dome. If you send me an email I will send you a couple of pictures. Pablo

[@igiunta1994]

PabloRequena thanks, what's your address?

[@lorenwoirhaye4687]

Can you tell me how much the angle of the neck should be for a flamenco guitar? If the classical requires removal of 1.5mm at the nut, how much to remove for the flamenco? thank you.

[@redkitekk]

Hi Loren, with the way build flamenco guitars I do it I use the same angle.

[@lorenwoirhaye4687]

@@redkitekk thank you.

[@petervanrooij2181]

Hello Pablo, I'am a bit confused. Is the square piece of cork beneath the lower harmonic bar lower that the other cork? I mean, that harmonic bar is rounded over a bit. Where does the belly of that radius go, if the square is the same hight as the rest?

[@redkitekk]

Hi Peter, can you tell me what minute in the video this is?

[@petervanrooij2181]

Hi Pablo, at 2:07 and 2:59

[@redkitekk]

Hi Peter, yes, that square is a bit thinner than the rest of the cork in the solera to accommodate the curve in the lower harmonic bar. It is there so that when I clamp the soundboard in place I don't force the lower bar.

[@petervanrooij2181]

Thank you.

[@sbooder]

Hi Pablo, how thick is the cork on the solera please? Thanks.

[@redkitekk]

4mm

[@sbooder]

Thanks.

[@steveassante6797]

Are the side inserts , doubled up,maple piano "Pin Blocks" ?

[@redkitekk]

Hi. The inserts for the bolts are: www.screwfix.com/p/insert-nuts-type-d-m6-x-20mm-50-pack/61859?kpid=61859&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CjwKEAiAwfzDBRCRmJe7z_7h8yQSJAC4corOs0VqlB80WW8MBvTjcwpqu0SltE5VvgBEwJO6gp92ehoCdsbw_wcB And the inserts to position the sides are 8mm wooden dowels. Is this what you where asking? Pablo

[@steveassante6797]

Thanks Pablo, but I was referring to the attachable/datachable 'sidewalls' that are placed onto the Solera board once the Soundboard is secured to it. My pardon for saying 'inserts' as I incorrectly named the parts I was referring to. I asked as the visible plys to the wood strongly resemble how a the material used for Piano Pinblocks looks

[@redkitekk]

Ah,Ok I see what you mean. You could use Maple piano pin block material, but what I normally use is just plywood. I glued 4 pieces together to have the right thickness.

[@jeffreydouglas351]

Why does your mold jig slant forward 1.5mm? I would think you want a slant backward to compensate for string pull.

[@redkitekk]

Because of the hight of the fingerboard, and the hight of the bridge, to obtain the right action it is necessary to bring the neck forward very slightly. If you bring the neck back ,then the hight of the saddle would be too much for the guitar to work properly.

[@jeffreydouglas351]

Thank you