How To Assemble A Mopar 440 Big Block! Detailed Step-By-Step Guide

Today on Dead Dodge Garage, we assemble the original 440 big block that will be going back into a nice, mostly original 1970 Dodge Monaco station wagon. This is a factory type rebuild - in fact, every effort has been made to make this engine detail correct, down to attaching exhaust manifolds, brackets, and other bits prior to paint, as was done originally during production in 1970. I utilized many reference photos taken at the time of disassembly, as well as various large books on the subject. I also spent countless hours cleaning and sand blasting fasteners and external engine components. You may not be going to these lengths for your rebuild, but the rest of the process is the same.
This engine is completely stock, other than an ever-so-slightly bigger camshaft, an oversized bore for cleanup and undersized main and rod journals - common steps taken during any thorough engine rebuild. The engine machining processes and parts selection were all done before filming, and are outside the scope of this video. A video on that end of building an engine may well be coming in the future - and if you're interested in a more performance-oriented big block build, that's also coming in the next couple months.
This engine is for yet another excellent Mopar restoration project at Rocket Restorations! ‪@rocketresto‬

[@72442conv]

I wish I would have had a video like this when I did my first 440 when I was 17 years old in my moms garage back in the 80's. Excellent video!

[@Pookus44]

Me and by brother are fixing the engine in our dads GTX roadrunner and we almost have the engine completely taken apart to asses the damage.

[@davidridgway2043]

This is great. It’s like graveyard cars but without mark worman shoving the camera down his throat every five seconds. Well done sir.

[@themaddendynasty5099]

Graveyard carz can be very difficult to watch

[@davestark2015]

I have a stressful life, I'm a caregiver to my wife who has had five strokes,a brain clot and heart attacks and a pacemaker. Needless to say I have no life of my own. But your content let's me escape from the hard parts . You make me laugh and I so need that. Plus your very informative,and no BS. So I thank you, and don't stop doing what you do best. Cheers Sir .

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Dang. That’s tough, Dave. There’s nothing I can say that will help much - but I am happy to keep making videos, and I am so glad you get so much out of them. Thank you.

[@normp3273]

Love this video! No fluff, no stories, no stupid music, no babbling on and on, just straight to the point. Clear and concise. This is a real "how to" video and I greatly appreciate this. If I was teaching a class on engine building, I would show this video.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!

[@normp3273]

@@DeadDodgeGarageNo problem. I'm about to do a basic rebuild on a LA 360. And I just happen to come across your channel.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@normp3273 Nice! I did a rebuild video on one of those too, although admittedly it was a budget build and probably not a great video.

[@chevler6761]

I referenced this video a lot when I was going through my 440 for my 61 Chrysler. Thanks a ton!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You bet! Happy to help.

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

Appreciate the comments on the little parts cleaning taking time. So true. Very satisfying to feel a good clean screw go in.

[@americanjoetv1390]

Thanks for the refresher brother. It's been a couple years and I totally needed that. You never cease to impress.

[@rickhudson6743]

Doing this now. Needed a refresher. Thank you. I'm refreshered.

[@arthammack1498]

Watching this for the 4th time or so, going to start assembling my 440 in the next couple days. I did get the Comp "RV style" cam from 440 source, hopefully that was not a mistake. Thanks for the great content.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well… I also hope not. If you have a cam grinder nearby it would be a great idea to have the cam and especially lifters checked.

[@maximuswedgie5149]

This is fantastic. I will be doing my very fist Chrysler Big Block engine rebuild this summer, was hoping you were going to do a reference video. Thank you.

[@007fredh]

I like to restore cars as a hobby I am not a mechanic. I also understand why I pay so much to have my engines built by an engine builder. Great work Jamie I love watching you. Do your stuff.

[@m1a1hm]

Cool video!! Reminds me when I rebuilt my 30 over 318 in my ragged garage for my 69 Sport Satellite. And like you i did it on the cheap with all stock parts well the intake and cam was aftermarket and the cam was a little bigger if I remember right it was a 272 cam. Well anyways outstanding work on the 440 I really enjoy the video.

[@ronaldrey8474]

That H.E. 268h comp cam is my fav. Rocking several cams since 1985.

[@craigbowley6783]

Good video. Simple yet informative 👍

[@wiggyjones]

I really enjoyed this. Thanks!

[@cougariog8817]

Always good videos bro. Keep up the good work.

[@RobRob75]

Loved it!!!

[@joooools01]

Amazing work. She's a beauty.

[@63hankster]

Thanks for the video

[@stlbrian33]

Great video 👍

[@colin_300]

Thanks man! Got my engine all back together and with (mostly) all correct torque specs!

[@danpickar5442]

Thanks for the vid..putting together a 383 right now so good to have a fresher!

[@rich_mc]

Thanks. You've given me a lot more confidence on being able to rebuild a 383 I recently picked up. This all seems doable as a first-timer.

[@meh-canics9628]

Some good tips here!

[@Bradsroad]

Thank you for this video breakdown on the build....i'm looking forward to building a 440 and 413 for a '66 Coronet and '66 Belvedere here in the fall.

[@brianbarry6909]

Good job Brother You get A+ From the Captain

[@jeffpriem4888]

Fun!! Thank you for this. My engine builder didn't video the assembly of my 440. I will say this is my motor being assembled Hello From Wisconsin

[@AnthonyLee]

New fan to your channel. I'm rebuilding my first motor (440) and I am loving the vibe. Looking forward to watching your other videos! GREAT walk through!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@rexricciardi7703]

hey brother very good video !!!!!!!!!!!

[@stuartpowell7416]

Great video. I wouldn’t even know where to begin to rebuild my 440.

[@daviddodson1019]

50 years ago, some old dude told me the best thing to clean the cylinder bores on an engine block Hoppes number 9 gun bore cleaner

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Interesting!

[@daviddodson1019]

I've tried it on a few blocks. It gets every bit of that Hone grit out of the cylinder.@@DeadDodgeGarage

[@r.hill.2369]

Apologies if it's already been shown, but I'd love to see the Monaco wagon this is going back into.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It hasn’t yet, but I plan to do video on the reassembly job. It’s a sweet car, and is in really good shape.

[@pdiz]

Impressive as always, DDG! I think everyone should have the two "How to Rebuild Big-Block Mopar Engines" books (there are two main ones, and if the gods are good to you, you have the older one with 240 color photos), but even then, that is nothing compared to actually seeing live-action video of someone doing it, plus their commentary. Also, to the n00bs, this is a "rebuild" not a "build," meaning that you use it as a reference on what to do, not as a performance guide for building power.

[@dantupper1784]

Should be a nice, solid 440. You can check off that box for the viewers now. I've used a candle stub when removing heated broken bolts- dabbed it in there- the hot wax wicks right into the threads like an oil & doesn't get napalmy like oils if too hot.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh, I’ve heard of that actually. I should give it a try.

[@leethorp2164]

I think I heard that some old-timers used to use Vaseline on the cam and lifters back in the day. I wonder if that's true.

[@robinelston5966]

You mention the cam gears dots up, my personal preference is dots facing, it's just easier for my eyes to see the alignment. The distributor position is irrelevant to cam position, just put the drive gear in wherever you want your vac advance to sit. Just to help you wrap your mind around it, turn your crank 1 rev, 2/1 ratio... the dots as you installed in the vid will now be facing each other. BTW cam lobes taper, this assists in rearward thrust and spins the tappets, hence no retainer needed for the cam, pump gear thrust also assists. Enjoyed the video, keep em coming.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You did not understand what I said, I guess. If you point the rotor at the #1 wire on the cap with the timing gear dots facing each other, you just timed your engine 180 degrees out, as the valves for #1 are at crossover there. At TDC one, both dots are facing upward. Obviously, you set the timing with the dots facing each other - then you turn the crank one rotation to reach TDC. And to your point on aiming the distributor, why would you change where the vacuum advance sits, when you can move #1 wherever you want on the cap? On the big block, the vacuum advance can really only sit in one location anyway. In any case, what I was explaining here is how to set the distributor and wires up in the factory correct positions that match original service diagrams. If you are building a factory restoration quality engine (as I was doing here,) or if you want to make your own diagnosis easier later, that may well be important to you. Believe it or not, I understand gear ratios too! 🤯 While we’re on the subject, I am also familiar with how camshafts work. I’m glad you liked the video, but I want to make it very clear that I at least kind of know what I’m doing and how this stuff works, or I wouldn’t be making these videos. Thanks.

[@robinelston5966]

@@DeadDodgeGarageNo offense I'm sure you do, just going over the details from how my brain works, we think differently. No issues with that, I've just always put mine together 180 out. BTW I forgot the slinger on my 383 too, very tempting to leave it out. BTW I went back and read my first post, it did seem a bit condescending, my apologies.

[@samhicks97]

Hoping to rebuild my Big Block Chrysler 361 soon, this vid will be of a good reference point even though this is an RB engine. Thanks.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Absolutely! The procedures are exactly the same. Even small block and other brands of classic V8 engines are largely similar.

[@moparedtn]

A volume for the ages, sir. The effort will be appreciated for years to come! A couple random observations of my own: a)the "finger pointing" thing is to me an *AvE* original thing - and I know you watch him too (it's a good thing, promise); b)you couldn't bribe me enough to ever use Comp stuff again - like never ever. Like many other parts, I've learned to hunt down 20+ year old (but brand new) stuff instead. Tired of the current quality of Chinesium-sourced stuff and they're among the worst. - Ed on the Ridge

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes I’m a big AvE fan - he probably influenced the way I run this channel more than anyone else. I have talked about it a couple times, but not many people ever bring it up. Yep… that’s where we’re at now. Sourcing purple shafts for every build we can. I am not looking forward to the day when they’re all gone. I hope there are still quality machinists around to reface lifters at that time.

[@mikerobo2112]

Pry the oil pan in between the bolt holes when you take if off. Gently.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s the best way I’ve found to bend the crap out of them, so I only do that if they’re silicone’d solid. Generally, I tap (carefully) around the pan in various places with a dead blow hammer and they come loose.

[@blah9664]

Awesome video. Very informative and helpful for rookies like myself just trying to get down the basics and concept of putting an engine together. What freeze plugs are you using? I wanted to go with milidon but I see the melling freeze plugs are cheaper.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m not sure what brand they are. I’ve never thought about freeze plug brands. I’ve always just used Dorman plugs personally. The machine shop installed all of them, except three of the main plugs down one side were actually factory machined too large so we had to source some plugs for those.

[@williamanthony5021]

Yo Mopar Guy . IMHO I get Mopar ? I am seeking you out . Money to buy parts then monies saved to offer to you for what I believe is a colossal guy Into automotive as I am into H D 1984 and earlier . Thank you very much for the station wagon engine rebuild a 440 my favorite engine . I put that fucker in all of my Mopars even a Dodge Dart , LOL I am happy I found your channel . More smiles per mile knowing you get it done. Thank you again from WILD BILL of BOSTON MASSACHUSETTS peace out.

[@joebrock9784]

That's why it was using the court gasket use RTV on both sides of the gasket and it won't weak

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

What are we talking about? Valve cover? Oil pan? I have done that for both in certain situations.

[@MichaelJohnson-cm4wp]

This is why your cam failed.. 37:29 you can see your cam shaft while you are installing the valley pan..no sign of any red goop for the cam lube..It all dripped off and you had a dry cam.. That red goop that stomp gives you will drip off and dry away with any amount of time.. Use a grease like Driven engine assembly grease..It stays put..won't drip off and will be there when you start..The red goop is long gone..

[@robertbarnhardt9792]

On rocker shafts oil holes go down and the oil hole is 15 degree toward exhaust if not no oil to valve tips

[@michaelyellamo2557]

First off want to thank you you are a fountain of wonderful useful knowledge and you make it fun to watch your process secondly I have a question perhaps you could answer my current build is a 1967 coronet 440 convertible with a 318 in it I am almost finished building a 413 for it I never swapped a small block for a big block are there many differences that I may encounter when attempting this process would appreciate the help if there is anything you can advise me on . One way or the other keep up the good work love your channel thanks ,Jimmy o

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You need a big block transmission, big block engine mount brackets and rubbers (the K frame is the same small or big block in those,) and then you need to make sure you have a B body oil pan and matching pickup, exhaust manifolds or headers that fit, and the rest of the accessories and brackets that will fit in the B body. There are a lot of these kinds of swaps out there, but no specifically useful guides come immediately to mind. I am going to do a slant six to V8 swap video in the near future. A small block to big block guide will come later, as I put together my ‘69 Charger.

[@markcate8022]

Try using a nut on broken bolt ...weld it on ...stops accidentally weld to surface and can use more heat

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I use that technique too, but it’s kind of difficult when they are broken off flush or deeper.

[@geebopbaluba1591]

You could make a great color commentator.

[@Campbase1]

On the oil pan and valve cover oil leaks. I stopped the leaks by buying new ones. Seems to be the only thing that works.

[@michaelstrafello7346]

You use long 3/8 hose on rod bolts 👍

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep! Works perfect! So much better than those dang little sleeves.

[@alexlandsberger1423]

The best rags ive found for this is old underwear and t shirts

[@kd6tas]

The main thing is I know where my towel is.

[@smokeandmirrors5960]

Touching the bearings on the surface is a no no. The crankshaft will spread the oil automatically on its own.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s fine. Definitely a clean finger job though.

[@user-nc2mj2cr6v]

What did you or the machine shop do to get the block so clean?

[@tonyb3864]

Nice job. But I have never rebuilt an engine to factory specs. I figure as long as I am going to all the trouble I might as well make some improvements. And I always use new ARP bolts on the important stuff. Yes I have OCD and I overkill everything.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well overkill is the only kind of kill… but the vast majority of my builds have been stock or warmed over stock. I’m definitely a bucks down kind of guy - around the time we start spending money on fancy bolts to replace the still good factory ones… we’re kind of out of my league. Haha. Having said that, I’ve got a performance stroker build with aluminum heads coming soon, and a couple other performance builds in the pipeline after that. Being at the restoration shop, to-the-letter stock appearing is the name of the game for many cars, and that’s something I’ve never done to this level. It might seem “boring” but I’ve found a lot of fun in the detail work.

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

@@DeadDodgeGarage not boring. Special feeling. Call me weird, but I think of designers and engineering and drafting and all older cool stuff. Slide rules, compasses, cigarettes, white short-sleeve shirts and skinny dark ties... All that while trying to tighten my oil pan with the cork gasket? Cheers! 🍻

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

😊

[@ericwilson2585]

I usually like ta start by putting in the camshaft first. Don't know just me.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Interesting. I’ve never done it that way. The reciprocating assembly is the most important so I start there. Knock out the big stuff, then add on the little things. Also, the cam is vulnerable to a certain degree while assembling the bottom end so I prefer to leave it out.

[@loydheckenlively9426]

You do if you want to make a pretty motor.

[@craigbowley6783]

I've learned from many different mechanics that comp cams are of inferior quality as of late and get getting them to warranty one is like pulling teeth.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

They’ve always been the go to - but this is the third one I’ve seen now that just looks weird. That’s a bummer.

[@billcobb9408]

Please still do engine rebuilds in detail.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I will do more!

[@ericwilson2585]

I see now

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

Please use mallet to tap the caps on.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Hammer works great. I’m guessing you mean something soft faced. This is a non issue, as long as one is simply tapping them. The sound as they seat fully is distinct, and hearing that is important to me.

[@wintonwright4244]

Yes and why doesn't anybody take the Welsh plugs out of the rocker room shafts and clean them out interesting thank you

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Because it’s annoying to do. Lol. I soak them, scrub them, spray them out with brake cleaner and then blow them with air through all holes until no more gunk comes out. It works.

[@gasser66]

"But first...........soup!"

[@hildablanco1591]

The valley pan can't be painted with intake on good original build its a shame the USA doesn't manufacture lifters anymore

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Any visible area of the valley pan would be painted. The intake insulation and hold down plate were later installed on this engine before paint.

[@scatpack68]

Do you have a preference using fully grooved mains vs. 180°?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I can’t say that I do. I usually gravitate toward stock-type parts wherever possible. If I were building an all out high horsepower engine I might be more inclined to go with full groove.

[@scatpack68]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I totally agree. I did my first rebuild 3 years ago and used fully grooved mains, and ended up switching to a hv oil pump which worked out well to keep the pressure gauge happy. Thanks for making this video.

[@brianandglendaharkin9457]

👍🏻💯🇦🇺

[@michaelstrafello7346]

Never understood not putting the rear main seal crooked

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Uncle Tony explained it very well recently. I understand the theory - offset the seams from the casting line. If you dab silicone there, you just solved that problem. There’s still a casting line, no matter how you put the seal. Also, the seal is designed with some crush so the ends pushing straight on each other should compress it that tiny bit. Offsetting the ends keeps them from compressing that way.

[@gregloy5790]

What cam are you going to use? Specs?

[@gregloy5790]

Never mind

[@masoben]

Great. Fucken. Video

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!!

[@colin_300]

I’m having serious trouble with my engine, a lot of people are saying that the timing is wrong but I aligned it exactly how you described with both dots pointing up at TDC 1. This is correct right?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That is definitely correct. Did you verify the dots pointed at eachother when the crank was turned one rotation? It’s best to line them up that way, then spin the crank one rotation and drop in the timing gear - also ideally after pre-lubing the engine.

[@colin_300]

@@DeadDodgeGarage just did some troubleshooting, got it! She sounds amazing! Thanks for your reply too!!!

[@billcobb9408]

is that radiator thermostat the correct one? it's not the mopar one. Whats your take?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Mean the water neck? It is a Mopar unit, but it is technically the wrong version. We are running really thin on good water necks…

[@billcobb9408]

@@DeadDodgeGarage no I mean the actual thermostat

[@michaelfackler9716]

You forgot the oil slinger

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Did I not say so in the video? Thought I did. I had to go back in and install it. That’s a classic Jamie move…

[@craigpierce7996]

And ahhh, who is "grinding" around your engine build? I'd be speakin' to that cat...

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s on the other side of the shop, but yeah. Agreed. Only so much I can do about that.

[@craigpierce7996]

@@DeadDodgeGarage my brother would try to grind, just to get me riled up!

[@billcobb9408]

My oil slinger was missing on my engine during tear down

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Not at all uncommon. Sometimes it’s there, but backwards… don’t do that

[@Cuchulainn42]

I thought “Hemi” engines had “Hemi” or dome-shaped heads like older Harley engines?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, yeah. They also have opposed valves. This isn’t a Hemi.

[@dirtlump]

Why use those LOW Compression Pistons ? Those are at best 8.6:1 with an open chamber 906 cast iron Head and composition Head Gasket.... and if you are going to use them ? then at the very least a guy could have decked the Block .020" to compensate for the thicker Composition Head Gaskets(.039") versus the factory .020" thick steel shim Head Gasket and try and get it closer to 9:1

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Because this is an intentional FACTORY rebuild, as close as to-the-letter as is possible, with absolutely zero care given to increased horsepower or performance. We only used a slightly larger camshaft because you literally can't buy one as small as the factory grind. We really don't care what the compression ratio is (you'll notice I didn't check.) In fact, if it's low enough to run happily on regular fuel, that's a huge plus! Funny enough, I have since found a set of steel shim head gaskets. If I'd known those were there, I may well have used them. Not everything has to be a hotrod. In my world, it's more often that the opposite is true.

[@dirtlump]

@@DeadDodgeGarage In '1970' the 'stock' CR in a FACTORY 440 was actually around 9.3:1 ..... NOT 8.6:1(MAX that you could be now) And at that 9.3 with the shorter 350 hp Cam they produced gobs of Trq., real stump pullers. All you've done is drop both the static CR and 'dynamic' CR by adding the Comp Cam which kills lower end Trq. And while not everything as you say needs to be a 'hotrod' in your world ?.... you've basically just DE-Nutted your 440 'hiding' behind it's supposedly 'stock and factory' monikers....which you blew it on BOTH counts because now it's LESS than "stock' and NOT at all 1970 'factory' 440. Just say'in.... sometimes it pays to know what it was "stock" from the FACTORY first.... before you attempt to duplicate it ?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@dirtlump ok

[@matthewb8229]

I had an Ethos once. Worst car I ever owned. Every time I wanted to do a burn out, the "You sure you want to break the law like that?" light would come on. I think it was built by Catholics. 10 over on the rods and mains, I see. Well done.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

🤣

[@antilaw9911]

Mr peabody. Uum ok

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Wut does that even mean

[@mikesylvester1021]

You Sure copy Vise Grip Garage lingo.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

How? Tell me. People have said that, and I have no god damn idea what the hell they're talking about. So please - enlighten me.

[@hildablanco1591]

The chop has too many people doing too many different things dust everywhere

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Agreed. It’s not ideal. We really need a dedicated engine building room, but unfortunately it’s not an option currently. Engines are covered any time I’m not actively working on them.

[@roypaxton6153]

Consider cutting the background music. Kinda annoying when we're trying to hear what you are saying

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Are you talking about the radio going in the shop? Yeah… not my idea, and not up to me.

[@stoveguy2133]

Dang son, buy a proper balancer install tool. They are $25

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I have one.

[@kd6tas]

The original sin is not stating the cam specs. If it's not a stock cam you must state the cam specs. Saying it is a mild cam does not relieve you of that obligation. If it was that unimportant you would have used a stock cam. C'mon. Jeez. It's not like were asking you to give birth. Just provide a shot of the cam card or a part number.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m not here to tell you which particular Comp Cam we made the mistake of buying. I’m not here to tell you the part number of the valve springs, or which replacement pistons we used. I didn’t make this video to give you a recipe to build a boring 440 that is as stock as possible. I made this video to show people who want to learn one way to assemble an engine. Maybe you’re not the intended audience. Jeez.

[@kd6tas]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Easy there Uncle Tony Junior. I said what I said light-heartedly. You're getting salty over nothing. And don't delude yourself; you're no public servant--you're a for-profit KZbin content creator. That's why you made the video. The intended audience is anyone and everyone who might click on it, watch it all the way through, like, share, subscribe, select bell notifications, buy merch, and when the time comes, become a patron. The motive is simple profit, the rest is gas light. Remember the KZbin suggestion: "be useful." This video could have been more useful had you been willing to discuss the build choices. That's all I'm saying. Gotta watch these Mopar guys--they bruise so easily. 😉👍

[@papaloongie]

@@kd6tasthere is a shot of the cam box I took a screenshot of it It has specs on it

[@kd6tas]

@@papaloongie Okay. Thanks. Put up a few of the numbers from it. Lift at the valve with stock rocker ratio, duration at .050", lobe separation angle, and/or make and model number.

[@hildablanco1591]

The USA doesn't manufacture lifters anymore all are restored or made in China a mechanical nightmare

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That is not my understanding.

[@paulz2641]

Goofy

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

And?

[@pmd7771969]

Goofy voice

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

What?! I had no idea

[@dusterowner9978]

Do you talk like this all the time ????????????/

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Why, yes! Yes I do! Ask anyone who knows me.

[@tonyb3864]

🤣

[@littlejohnny4470]

I subscribed, but after listening you talk, well, you sound like an announcer in a commercial, and I HATE commercials!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s just unfortunate for all involved

[@kevinhemken748]

Is someone grinding in the same room as you are building this motor , that's a no no .

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

On the far opposite side of the shop, but yes, I agree. Unfortunately we don’t have anywhere else to do this.

[@bigcokusdikus]

Pro Tip lint free spray paint wipes zero lint your welcome

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ll check those out!