How to Automatically Fertilize Your Garden with EZ-Flo Hose Bib Fertilizer Injector

Fertilizing automatically with an injector is a lot easier and more affordable than it sounds.
Shop EZ-Flow Hose Bib Fertilizer Injectors: www.dripdepot.com/product/ez-...
Adam walks through the EZ-Flo fertilizer injector, an all-in-one fully self-contained fertilizer injector that can automatically inject nutrients to your plants at predetermined ratios.
EZ-FLO injectors are ideal for backyard gardeners, commercial landscapers and small market gardens. EZ-Flow works with any water soluble or liquid fertilizer - with water soluble powder or granular fertilizers, you don’t even have to pre-mix it with water, the EZ-Flo will do that for you!
Products do not require dilution or premixing unless using a Flo-Disc or the manufacturer’s recommendation. Add the amount of fertilizer you want then fill the tank with water until all air is out of the tank. The system will mix the products automatically when the water is turned on.
You can use EZ-Flo with a garden hose, sprinkler, or even a drip irrigation system to automatically fertilize, commonly known as "Fertigation"!
Explore our selection of Drip Irrigation Kits: www.dripdepot.com/category/dr...
EZ-Flo 1 Gallon Hose End High-Pressure System - www.dripdepot.com/product/ez-...
EZ-Flo Main-Line Dispensing System - www.dripdepot.com/product/ez-...
AlgoPlus All Purpose Formula - www.dripdepot.com/product/alg...
Helpful Links
EZ-Flo Buying Guide: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Everything you need to know about EZ-Flo Hose Bibb Systems: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
How to Design a Drip Irrigation System: • How to Design a Drip I...
Planning a Drip Irrigation System Guide: help.dripdepot.com/support/so...
Shop Metal Raised Beds: www.dripdepot.com/product/dri...
TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 - Intro
0:49 - Tank Sizes
1:18 - Parts
2:09 - Installation
4:23 - Adding Fertilzier
5:15 - Adjusting Fertilizer Setting
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[@MichaelW166]

I could listen to this guy narrate my life. So majestic like on the same level as Sam Elliot or Morgan Freeman. Thanks for the explanation this is just what I needed for my drip irrigation system

[@dripdepot]

Michael, thank you for the comment! This is by far the best one I've ever received -- to even be mentioned in the same sentence as either of those distinguished gentlemen is pretty much a career high. Thank you!

[@erikkayV]

This guys voice is the real hero.

[@dripdepot]

Erik, this is the first thing I walked into Monday morning down here -- thank you! Best way to start the week, I truly appreciate it :)

[@erikkayV]

@@dripdepot No, I truly appreciate it!!!

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

i can't remember having it seen already in our garden shops, i just wrote a recommendation mail to our next lawn machinery store.

[@Ojb_1959]

Very helpful video! Thanks 👨‍🌾

[@dripdepot]

You're very welcome, thank you too!

[@arabianknight47]

Really thorough video, made what I thought was a complex system so easy to understand. I think I'll tackle this project and my garden will be very happy! Thank you!

[@dripdepot]

You're very welcome, thank you for the great comment as well!

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

the advantage of DIY built fertirrigation systems is the option of filling it by selfmade filtered stinging nettle broth even

[@CathyBenscoter]

Great explanation! This clinched it on whether I was going to buy this tank. I'm so glad I did. I'm saving a least an hour a week mixing fish fertilizer in watering cans by letting the irrigation do it for me with every watering. The only thing I found was that I had to cut the "out" cord really short or the fertilizer wouldn't flow out right. I think it just had too many loops in it because it's sitting right next to the hose bib. Once we shortened it, everything was good to go!

[@dripdepot]

Good tip on cutting the tubing! As you noted, it can help in some situations -- I'm not entirely sure on the why in regards to the physics, I'm thinking a shorter length of tubing ends up needing less pressure differential (but that's just a guess!). :)

[@martinbird12]

@@dripdepot I wonder if it's the direction change reducing the flow? Folks worry about 90 deg, if you have say, 5 loops, that's 1800 degrees!

[@dripdepot]

@@martinbird12 Definitely a salient point you're making, as you are correct, each 90° loses a little pressure -- usually not enough to calculate individually, but with enough it can indeed add up pretty quickly.

[@RanveerJayani]

Hello Adam, I have never seen a video like this, concise and still detailed; simple to understand, yet full of all the important information. I was doubting if I should spend couple hundred dollars installing this. Your video cleared all my doubts. And I ordered the 1 gallon EZ-1010 HB today. A few questions: 1. I plan to install it after one of the anti-siphon sprinkler valve which I repurposed for drip irrigation. I have already installed a 25 PSI pressure reducer before the valve. Is 25 PSI sufficient to make it work? I will use it for about 30-40 potted plants. 2. Can it say in sun all the time? Thank you again !!

[@epristerv]

Great video as always, Adam. I’m interested in adding one of these to the drip system for my raised garden beds that you folks helped me set up, but I’m doubting my math on this as I try to determine how often I’d have to refill the tank. I’ll use rounded figures, but I’ve got 100 ft of emitter line with an emitter every 6” so 50 emitters. The emitters do .5 gallons per hour so 25 gallons per hour. I usually run my system for 30 minutes per day so 12.5 gallons (which seems really low but appears to be working). According to the EZ Flo Chart, if I use any of the Flo-Discs (which I should per the video with my lower flow rate), the tank would empty in 188 gallons. 188 gallons divided by 12.5 gallons per day would be 15 days. I’d use 3/4 gallon of liquid fertilizer in 15 days, so 3 liters at $16/liter? That’s almost $100 of fertilizer per month. Is my math wrong somewhere? Even scarier, that sounds like way too much fertilizer in those beds. Please tell me the error in my thought process ha ha. Also, I am reading that you have to release pressure every time it runs which would be a real pain, but in another place it said the emitters would release the pressure. Which is it, please? I sure love Drip Depot but really wish we could call you. Thanks!

[@dripdepot]

This came in just as we were shutting down for the 4th -- we'll be out tomorrow but back in on Friday and I'll be happy to help. A quick glance and you're on the right track -- I see one error ( not in your math, just in the number of emitters -- 100' of emitter line with 6" spaced emitters will have about 100 emitters and a flow rate of 100 GPH). That will likely change a few of your calculations, but on Friday I'll come in and do some math with you -- when using a Flo-disc, you have it exactly right that the feed ratio speeds up -- in that case, it's ok to pre-dilute the fertilizer to get to a lower ratio (this should lower the amount of fertilizer overall you use to a more budget friendly level). I'll be back early in the a.m. on Friday to run some numbers -- in the mean time, do you know what fertilizer you'll be using and its recommended ratio/usage? I can use those numbers to see how much you'll be using :)

[@epristerv]

@@dripdepot Oh DUH of course, every 6” isn’t half the emitters, it’s the other way! I’ll rework things, but actually that makes the $$$ worse. I looked at the fertilizer you were using in the video as my favorite water soluble fertilizers need to be shaken prior to mixing as they settle, so I’m thinking they wouldn’t work as much as I like them. They are 1 Tablespoon per gallon. I guess I could use the valves to turn it on and off but was really liking the idea of “set it and forget it” and doing small doses with each water, which is almost daily where I am. I’ll send an email so you know who you’re talking to. :). I really appreciate the help.

[@dripdepot]

@@epristerv Happy to confirm I received your email, a reply should be in your in-box shortly :)

[@paulnicholson8524]

You can use one for fungal food for trees, one for bacteria food annuals thru turf grass, and one for humic acid to offset the clorimeme and chlorine in the water.

[@dripdepot]

Good advice here! Particularly noting it should be separate units for these (as they're not rated for constant pressure). And great tip on the Humic Acid, that's something I only just recently learned myself.

[@stevehinton5300]

Great video. I am using 1 " PVC as a header pipe for my 100' x 100' garden which feeds each row with .700" drip tubes about 80' each. How would i plumb it into the 1" pvc..? I have used the Mazzai injector on a 1 acre hemp field, but way too complicated for my garden. Thanks!

[@dripdepot]

Good question Steve! You likely wouldn't want to use the unit used in the video -- with a couple adapters you could, but there's a better option for 1" PVC. For PVC units, you'd want the mainline dispensing unit (www.dripdepot.com/search?q=1528) -- the mainline dispensing EZ-Flo comes with the adapter needed to connect it to 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe, so it would come with everything needed. That adapter in the mainline dispensing unit serves the same function as the hose bib adapter does in this video, just works with PVC pipe (1" or 3/4") instead of a hose bib. :)

[@GardeningwithDave]

Great video Adam! Do you know if I can add compost tea and beneficial nematodes to this system? I wouldn’t want it break it after installing it 😂.

[@dripdepot]

Very good question Dave -- so, to some degree you can -- the trick is to make sure it's filtered of any particles larger than about 120 - 155 mesh. 120 Mesh for things like microsprinklers and sprayers, 140 for button drippers and 155 to 200 mesh for drip line and drip tape. This means it's probably best to strain the solution first to get any larger particles out first, but after you're down to a liquid solution you can inject away. :)

[@CB-shellcracker]

How does one determine which flow restrictor to use with the EZ-Flow Hose Bib Fertilizer Injector System when using adjustable (360 degree) emitters since they have a wide range of outputs. Should the emitter output be based on the average of the emitter's low and high output range? Based on what I have learned from your videos, Knowing the number of emitters and the emitter output helps to determine which flow restrictor insert will be needed for a garden EZ-Flo Fertilizer Injector system. Please advise and thank you so much for your informative and easy to understand videos. I have learned a ton about drip irrigation from this channel.

[@dripdepot]

This is a great question, and I think you're on the right track in going with the average. To some degree it will depend on where you're setting the adjustable emitter -- if you've got it halfway open, definitely go with the average (and account for your operating PSI as well since it influences emission volume). Then, just as you noted, you can total up the flow rate and compare it to the flow disc chart to select the compatible one. You'll know within seconds if it's working as well -- if you see fertilizer coming through the tube, you're good to go -- if you don't, then you can try a different flow disc. Fortunately these units use pressure differential physics to operate, so sometimes it's harder to get one not to work than to work right out the box, flow disc or not :) You're welcome to reach out with any questions or follow-up questions that come up during your research, absolutely happy to assist!

[@CB-shellcracker]

Thank you for your prompt response. Hopefully, I will have fun experimenting and learn more about drip irrigation during the process. Will share what I learn with this channel. Thanks again..

[@dripdepot]

@@CB-shellcracker You will definitely have fun! After I setup my first system at home I got into the habit of building new beds and new plant projects. If any questions come up as you go through the process, don't hesitate for a second to send them this way :)

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

50psi = more than 3bar, common pressure reductors reduce to 3 bar for drip irrigation systems of selfcompensating valve tubes (rainbird, toro etc.)

[@dripdepot]

You got it -- a lot of compensating drip line operates from 12 to 50 PSI so the pressure doesn't have to be reduced as much as in a non-compensating system. Though, for the longevity of the fittings, tubing and components, I typically still reduce down to around 25 PSI :)

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

thanx for your advice - the fittings i use to strengthen by adjustable metal rings tightened around them (for hoses & tubes), mostly the dead ends which used to jump off before at 3bar/45psi@@dripdepot

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

i observed we can develop physical thinking same as the ravens have automatically (offered a half full glass of water & stones, they fill it up throwing them in for drinking it soon & other tricks...): when isee large horizontal flashes in the sky, i conclude its cause: desert dust particles above in friction by strong wind causing diferent charges in the clouds. shopping rollers giving us electric discharges due to wheel rotation (dynamo effect) can be neutralized holding them to metal tubes in the streets for their earthing. resolving problems in work devlelops thinking in terms of cause & effect.@@dripdepot

[@dripdepot]

@@user-jn9rj7hm6u Are the metal rings clamps? if so, good call for sure at 3 bar -- as you noted, it will help ensure the tubing stays on the fitting. We use clamps with barbed insert fittings, even when the pressure is very low at around 1 bar

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

el guardian de la tierra, yt shows a DIY ''injector'' made of a recycled gallon connected by 2x 6mm tubes to the 16mm (or more, f.e. 1'' main tube) fertirrigation system: the gallon can be filled w/ dissolved fertilizer which flows into the system if we ''strangulate'' the 16mm tube by almost shutting its control valve installed between the 2 6mm tubes leeding to & from the fertilizer gallon .

[@dripdepot]

I just watched the video on that, it is indeed a venturi injector, awesome stuff. I read an article on in after checking out the video and they were using stinging nettles just as you mentioned in another comment, now I'm definitely going to have to try it. One other trick people do to inject fertilizer (and probably not one I'd recommend) is to put solid fertilizer inside the filter element. That way as the systems runs, it dissolve the fertilizer and carries it into the lines. I likely wouldn't do it due to the difficulty in calculating application rates going that route, but we've seen it done successfully (mostly before venturi injectors became more common/known).

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

might be filled up w/ BEER even, just necessary calculate the optimal dissolution beer1:9 of water

[@monicarolnickelson3492]

I recently switched some of my beds from adjustable emitters to drip tubing (thank you Drip Depot!), so some of my beds are emitters and some are drip tubing. My water pressure is so low that I can only effectively water 3 4x4 beds at a time. Do you think I still need to figure out which size flow restrictors I need? I suspect that the pressure is already below any amount needing a flow restrictor.

[@dripdepot]

From what you've described, you'd mostly likely be using the red flo-disc (the red flo-disc can work on systems operating at as low as 7.5 GPH, 3 4x4 beds would be a bit over that when using drip line). You're right to be concerned about pressure, however, as these do operate through pressure differential. The injector needs at least 5 PSI inlet pressure to be able to create enough differential to begin suction. If a friend or neighbor has a pressure gauge you can throw on to your hose bib, definitely test it -- if you're over 5 PSI you'd be within specification to use one with the red flo-disc. For overall system performance I think it would be best to be a bit over 5 PSI -- additional things at the head assembly like the EZ-Flo adapter cause small losses, which if you're already on the cusp of being really low can tip the scales and have an impact. 5 PSI would be super low for residential, so there's a good chance you're enough above 5 PSI that you can create enough differential :)

[@bernadettecanasa9963]

Hello! What do i do with the leftover fertilizer after i completed my irrigation run?

[@dripdepot]

If you plan to keep fertilizing, you can leave it in the tank -- if it's going to be some time before you wish to fertilize again, it's best to safely dispose of what is left (such as at winter time).Between watering cycles it is safe to leave in the tank and the next cycle may use it up. As an EZ-Flo uses the fertilizer, it replaces it in the tank with water, so eventually you'll just have a tank of water :)

[@zenlightisbe2705]

Hi Adam. I see you are using the 25 psi pressure regulator, but my EZ-Flow instructions say to use a 40 psi. Will the 25 psi work properly?

[@dripdepot]

In regards to pressure, you'll be good to go :) They include the 40 PSI so that if your water source is over 50 PSI and you don't have another regulator, you can use the unit -- over 50 PSI can cause damage to it. If your system operates at 25 PSI, that's still more than enough -- it operates on the Venturi principle, so really it just needs pressure differential between the inlet and the outlet. If your system's flow is particularly low, you can use one of the flow-discs they include -- those discs serve to increase the pressure differential to make sure suction is achieved.

[@user-wh5xf8us2i]

Does this work on large drip irrigation for gardens

[@dripdepot]

You bet! EZ-Flo units often are used in large gardens -- even commercial grows use them frequently. With a large garden it's best to size one out so you're not constantly having to refill it, but they're available in multiple sizes, including a "mainline dispensing unit" line that works with larger PVC systems.

[@KDtox]

Can the high pressure 1 gal tank be installed before the timer (so under constant pressure)? I have a 4-zone timer, so I would prefer to install just one of these tanks rather than 4 separate tanks. Thanks!

[@dripdepot]

Unfortunately it cannot -- it used to be referred to as a constant pressure system, but things have since been updated to indicate it should not be left under constant pressure. Definitely understand not wanting 4 of them for each zone -- moving it from zone to zone could also be a pain. Potentially a shut-off valve between the timer and the EZ-Flo adapter could work -- you'd still have to make a trip to the spigot each day to open the valve and then close it after all the irrigation cycles had ran, but definitely a lower cost than getting 4 separate units :)

[@monicarolnickelson3492]

Great information! How long does it have to be not under pressure each day? Could I just insert a timer upstream of the canister and set it to be off for, say, 8 hours a day?

[@dripdepot]

@@monicarolnickelson3492 There's two types of pressure we're concerned with when it comes to irrigation parts: Dynamic Pressure and Static Pressure. The warning about constant pressure refers more to static pressure. Static pressure in irrigation is water pressure when there's no water moving, like on your spigot when it's shut-off. This is the type of constant pressure the EZ-Flo should never be under. That means you essentially have it right, and having a timer upstream of the EZ-Flo would essentially solve that -- there's still the dynamic pressure. Dynamic pressure in irrigation is water pressure when the water is flowing (such as dripping out of your emitters after the lines are pressurized). This can be constant as well in systems that run 24/7. If I recall correctly, I believe that most drip irrigation components should not operate for more than 12 continuous hours. I suspect that's not something you'd need to worry about, but wanted to give the full explanation :)

[@blinkitphotography]

How can it evenly disperses the fertilizer. I have 4 raised beds which is 1ft apart in a .05gal per hour?

[@dripdepot]

These systems use pressure differential to continuously inject a very small amount of fertilizer into the mainline -- this means pretty much as soon as water starts flowing, it begins injecting and does so continuously so there are no lapses. This allows the fertilizer to be evenly dispersed, as almost every bit of water traveling through the tubing network will contain a micro amount of fertilizer. Technically, the system can be turned up so that more fertilizer is injected, but EZ-Flo only recommends doing that if the soil has been professionally tested and found to be heavily deficient in nutrients -- the advised (and most common) use is to leave it on the low setting and allow it to delivery micro-doses of nutrition during the watering cycles.

[@ponyupify]

Could you use compost tea in this system?

[@dripdepot]

We do see folks use compost tea in these, but it does take a little more preparation. The compost tea needs to be well filtered to get the particulates out so the drip emitters don't become clogged. With the particulates out, it will inject the tea right into the lines, out the emitters and to the roots of the plant. The microbes that are extraordinarily small (even microscopic) will still be in the solution and do their work in the soil :)

[@yolandago1052]

I have a timer with multi zones. Because it needs to be installed after the timer and pressure regulator how do I connect it so it fertilizes each zone without disconnecting and connecting each use.

[@dripdepot]

Unfortunately it will need to be disconnected and moved from zone to zone -- or, alternatively, one unit for each zone, though that can take up a lot of space depending on the number of zones. The reason for this is the constant pressure components are under when upstream of the timer valve. Very few parts are rated for that kind of constant pressure and will wear out very quickly. Perhaps most importantly, hose threaded backflow preventers are not rated for constant pressure and you always want a backflow preventer to be upstream of the injector to protect the potable water supply.

[@heyou429]

Is that a pressure regulator or a backflow preventer right at the bib? I usually use Dr Earth and fish emulsion interchangeably for everything - trees, fruit trees, berries, shrubs, grasses, flowers. So can I just fill this tank with the emulsion, run a hose to a sprinkler and let it fly?

[@dripdepot]

In the video, our head assembly is: Timer --> Backflow Preventer --> Filter --> Pressure Regulator --> EZ-Flo Adapter. Do you know if the Dr Earth is water soluble? If it's water soluble, you have the usage correct -- fill up the tank with the fertilizer, top it off with a little water, set the dial and off you go. With injectors, the fertilizers do have to be water soluble or liquid, however.

[@user-ou6ng4fr9c]

I use 1 injector shared between 4 raised beds. 1 has 20 1 gal/ hour emitters and another has 75 emitters. I am not using a regulator Flo disc. Should I? Also, sometimes there is no fertilizer flow showing in the hose. Should I do something different? Thanks

[@dripdepot]

Are all 4 beds running at the same time, or are these on separate zones? If they're on separate zones, I'd recommend using one of the Flo-discs. A zone that has too low of flow may not get the pressure differential it needs to create a strong enough vacuum to pull fertilizer. The flo-discs can help create more pressure differential for low flow zones. If you are running all of the beds at once, let me know the total number of emitters and their flow rates and I can help narrow things down :)

[@deancitroni4447]

Question for you. I'm pretty sure the flow rate would be a little off that doesn't concern me at this point. Can I go from hose bib to timer to a standard Y valve with a second timer on one fert side drip tube on another. Have them join again with a t so that I could regulate the time of fertilization Thanks in advance for any input

[@deancitroni4447]

I do understand you can manually shut the valve off and accomplished the same thing I just wanted my fertilization on a consistent

[@dripdepot]

This is a great question -- if I'm understanding correctly, I do think you could accomplish what you're describing. This would be a form of a bypass, with larger injectors this is usually accomplished by Tee'ing out and then having a ball valve so that the fertigation can be turned off when not needed. Yours sounds essentially the same, but with a timer to automate the fertigation cycles. The only potential obstacle I see is in getting the second timer to open at the correct time -- the timer valves require a minimum PSI in order to open (the water pressure assists in opening the valve), and if water were flowing to the zone the pressure against the timer valve would drop. If it were above the minimum, the timer valve should open, but if it's below it may not. If you give this a shot, let us know how it works out, this was a great question and I like the idea of being able to program fertilizing cycles like this without needing to attend the manual on/off valves.

[@cmikecs]

I'd like to feed approximately 25 Supertunias in various areas and baskets with a .5 gallon emitter to each one. The Proven Winners water soluble fertilizer calls for 1 tsp per gallon of water with varying rates of solution depending on size/space. How exactly would I set the EZ-Flo? How much fertilizer do I add to it? Thank you!

[@dripdepot]

There are 768 teaspoons in a gallon of water, so it sounds like your fertilizer is calling for a 768:1 ratio -- On the hose bib EZ-Flo fertilizers, the "Slow" setting on the dial is a 1000:1 ratio and the #1 setting is a 500:1 ratio, so you could set the dial roughly in between the two to get around the desired ratio (this changes if you need to use one of the flo-discs, however). The maker of these recommends filling up the tank entirely with fertilizer, as the mixing happens within the injector itself -- so you could fill it to the top with the fertilizer (but save a little room to top it off with water, it helps things get started) and then select the mixing dial and it will mix and then inject the solution right into the irrigation lines at approximately the selected mixing ration.

[@tarekazzouz6607]

Hi, how much of the Algo Plus I should add to a 3/4 gallon tank? And How much water? Ratio Algo Plus to water in a 3/4 gallon tank?

[@dripdepot]

For normal use, you can fill the tank up with Algo Plus (or as much as you can and then top it off with water). The fertilizer is actually mixed with water inside the unit itself to the setting used on the dial (EZ-Flo always recommends using the "Slow" setting unless the soil has been professionally tested to determine a higher setting is required). In the instructions, you can see what each setting dilutes the fertilizer to -- also look for "Volume to Empty" -- this is approximately how many gallons of water it will take to empty the tank, so you can get an idea of when it will need re-filled.

[@joekunin]

Can this be installed on the outflow side of an irrigation valve?

[@dripdepot]

With just an adapter or so it definitely could be, but there's a better option there -- we haven't made a video for it yet, but EZ-Flo makes an injector specifically for non-spigot irrigation systems. Here's a link to if if you'd like to check it out: www.dripdepot.com/product/ez-flo-main-line-dispensing-system

[@joekunin]

@@dripdepot Great thanks! I'll consider that for my next order with you folks (which should be coming shortly)

[@CastBlastCamp]

Hey Adam, I'm back with another question. I was just doing some weed eating outside and in my garden. I have the red and blue button hgph drippers drip depot brand. Some of the blue nipple extensions on the blue dripper side of the buttons got knocked/broke off during weeding. My question is will they still emit properly or will I have to replace with new? That side of the button still has a hole in it for weeping but no nipple. Just lmk thanks.

[@dripdepot]

First, I'm loving your new image and banner on your channel -- coming along very nicely! Ok, if I'm understanding correctly, you should be good to go -- most of the action (labyrinth like passage inside, small orifice, sometimes a diaphragm) happens inside the dripper -- if all you cut off was the outlet post, it should still function normally in regards to volume of water released. And the weed eater I'd say is the number one mangler of drip equipment -- I've gotten my tubing on more than one occasion. The second is the lawn mower. That one I haven't had happen to me yet, but it probably would have if I hadn't buried my tubing.

[@CastBlastCamp]

@@dripdepot I really appreciate that compliment! And how fast you reply! I'm going to be starting my own Y T channel focused mostly on outdoors (fishing hunting camping exploring cooking etc) possibly some gardening and drip irrigation vids too! Thanks a lot for that info! I had stopped weed eating as soon as i noticed some of the 'nipples' were missing. And went straight to you to see if it'll be okay. I knew you'd have the right answer(s). Using the weed eater is so much faster than using a weeding hoe so I guess I'll get back to it. Thanks again Adam. Might have to order more emitters in the future.

[@dripdepot]

You're very welcome! And great topic for a channel man! When you upload your first video, ping me, I'll give you one of your first thumbs up :)

[@CastBlastCamp]

@@dripdepot Awesome super appreciated!

[@CastBlastCamp]

@@dripdepot I talked my brother into drip irrigating his gardens too! Blueprinted out his system today, building his cart now.

[@user-jn9rj7hm6u]

i've been searchimg for these products: amazon out of stock, in ebay 220€ +39€ shipping for the 2 gallon injector... i'll better assemble an own one recycled ! anyway, the proposals for fertigation dosification usefull,

[@dripdepot]

Yes, Amazon and eBay's international shipping is unfortunately cost prohibitive. As logistics continue to improve I'm hopeful this will get better in time :)

[@brad4527]

hello, my question is , when turing on the Faucet how much should you turn it on. for example , all the way on , half way or all the way on ? im going to set up my drip depot kit Wednesday along with a water timer . im not sure if i worded right. This is all new to me. Thank you. Brad.

[@dripdepot]

I think you worded it correctly Brad :) And I can assist! In most cases you should turn the water on all the way, as the timer valve can handle the constant pressure and the pressure regulator will regulate downstream pressure for the irrigation system. The only time it may not be advised to turn the water on all the way is in rare circumstances the pressure at the spigot is extraordinarily high (over 80 PSI). Even then, it's usually just better to get parts rated for higher pressure so the spigot valve can be opened all the way.

[@brad4527]

@dripdepot Thank you so much for the advice and hopefully it won't take all day to set the kit from your Drip Depot

[@dripdepot]

You're very welcome! Depending on how big it is, the first time might take most of a day -- with that said, by the end of it you'll be very proficient at using the parts. Even folks who are not DIY inclined get pretty good at it by the end of the install. If you're a DIY'er you'll knock it out quickly :)

[@brad4527]

@dripdepot I figured it will take 3hrs with letting the tubing warm up and blowing out the lines to be free in clear

[@dripdepot]

Good call letting it warm up in the sun for a bit -- when you go to blow out the lines, you could just flush them (have the end caps off, turn on the water, and let the water wash out any debris that got in during installation) :)

[@cs7717]

Two questions please. First how do you know what size tank to choose. Second what's the difference between using this and a Venturi system such as hozen? I have seen a few videos that say Venturi systems do not work in a drip irrigation system. Do you find that to be correct, and if so, do you know why that is? I have the rest of my parts for my new drip irrigation system in my cart with you folks and this is the last portion I need to spec out and select. Thanks!

[@dripdepot]

Choosing the size of the tank is mostly based on the "Water Volume to Empty Tank" line in the specifications (here's an example for the 3/4 gallon tank: www.dripdepot.com/file/parent/1205/1205-2005HB-Spec-Sheet.pdf). Basically, that's how many gallons will run through before the tank is emptied of fertilizer -- you don't want to end up having to fill the tank up in the middle of a watering cycle, for example. The volume to empty is based on the flow rate of the irrigation system (sum of all emitters operating at once) and the setting used on the adjustment dial (Slow to Fast, essentially). Like the Hozon, EZ-Flo units are Venturi, and I can happily confirm the EZ-Flo units work with drip irrigation. EZ-Flo units come with "Flo-Discs" that can be used for particularly low flow or low pressure systems -- The Flo-Discs create a little more pressure differential to keep them injecting. Some Venturi injectors won't work with drip, but that's really about sizing, as they can be designed to create the necessary differential for suction through manipulating constriction sizes. For sizing an EZ-Flo for your system, check the PDF files that say "3/4" Gal Spec Sheet" and "2 Gal Spec Sheet" at the item page here: www.dripdepot.com/fertilizing-system That's where you'll find the volume to empty the tanks based on the system flow rate and the setting used -- in most cases EZ-Flo recommends just using the slow setting.

[@cs7717]

Okay, more questions please. On the item page you referenced, the video on the right, "EZ FLO Hose Units", at 2:37, as in the thumbnail, it shows a typical installation with a timer. They show this unit before the timer for drip systems. I could be wrong, but it appears they also show a backflow device immediately after the EZ Flo and before the timer. Is that true? According to one of your other videos, the correct order (but without the EZ Flo), is Timer --> Backflow --> Filter --> Pressure Regulator --> Tubing Adapter. In a 4 port hose splitter drip irrigation system, a) Can you put the backflow before the splitter necessitating only one backflow device or must it go after the timer, necessitating 4 devices? b) Can you put the EZ Flo before the splitter so that you only need one EZ Flo? You could put it on a diversion line so that water only flows through it when needed, thereby not keeping it under constant pressure. Flip your valve, water goes through it and downline. Flip the valve the other way, and it is not pressurized and bypassed. Based upon how they have the setup in the video, I would think this possible as long as it is not under constant pressure. But the pdf you linked to, "1205-2005HB-Spec-Sheet.pdf", clearly emphasizes that the "Optional Irrigation Line Connection" "must be connected after the zone valve." It also continues on to say it, "must be installed after back flow prevention" (contrary to video) and "downstream of any zone valve" again, contrary to the video. Clearly the manufacturer has no consistency and cannot make up their mind as to its placement options, even for what they emphasize as a "must be" location. c) Is there sufficient inflow pressure from a typical brass Y splitter that you sell to support the EZ Flo being immediately downflow of it? I would think so since I believe I have seen it in your videos after your 4 port manifolds. The internals of the 4 and the 2 port splitters are identical. d) What kind of psi is maintained in the tank during operation? I am presuming it is not very high based upon the fact that barbed connectors are used to hold the 1/4" hose onto it and the venturi piece. e) What is the minimum PSI inflow? I see gpm with and without the flo disc kit, but not psi. This kind of ties back to question c) above, since venturi systems depend on psi input/output differences to work properly. Sorry, I'm one of those "must fully absord it all before buying" kind of analyzers and people. I am borrowing money to buy my setup, so I cannot afford to make any mistakes and need to save wherever possible.

[@dripdepot]

​@@cs7717 a) Unfortunately the backflow preventer cannot come before the timer (or any other shut-off valves). These type of backflow preventers (Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker) are not rated for constant or static pressure, so they do have to come after shut-off valves/timer valves. b) You've got the right of it in regards to this allowing a single unit to service multiple zones from a hose bib (so long as the bypass line is rated for constant pressure), but, as you noted, this would also put the unit upstream of the backflow preventer, which you definitely don't want with fertilizer. In the PDF, the "Optional Irrigation Line Connection" is definitely a little out of place, as that one is showing a hose bib unit used downstream of an Anti-Siphon Valve on a PVC line. The Anti-Siphon Valve serves as the backflow preventer in that setup. What makes that a little out of place is that they make injectors that are specifically designed for running from PVC -- I think they include it to show how to use one when an Anti-Siphon Valve is used for backflow prevention. c) You bet, the Y splitter can provide enough pressure and flow to operate an EZ-Flo -- there are flow requirements for these, but the flo-discs can be used if there is insufficient suction occurring. d) You have the right of it that the pressure isn't too high. I don't know the exact number, but I do know their recommendation has changed over the years. It used to be the typical install path was to put the EZ-Flo adapter right before the pressure regulator. At some point a few years back it changed to come after the pressure regulator (though they do specify if pressure is greater than 50 PSI). e) They list the minimum PSI at 5 PSI. I have seen these work at lower PSI in gravity setups, so I think the 5 PSI is a safe spot to ensure suction. You got it right with the Venturi, it's really all about the pressure differential (which is why we've seen them able to work at less pressure, though I don't know if I'd rely on it too much at

[@ymingma]

So I don't need to dilute the fertilizer with water first? The unit will mix it with water automatically? I guess the fertilizer will get weaker and weaker till the end?

[@dripdepot]

You've got it exactly right -- with most fertilizers (soluble or liquid) the EZ-Flo unit itself dilutes the fertilizer inside as the system operates. The dilution ratio is set by the dial on the tank. :)

[@FC2ESWS]

Is this only for 1 drip? I have like 100 plants...

[@dripdepot]

This system was for about 6-10 potted plants on a patio -- we used the smaller 3/4 gallon EZ-Flo, but they also make a larger one for hose bibs and then even larger ones for systems running from solenoid valves on a PVC mainline. If you're running from a hose bib, there's a reasonable chance the 2.5 gallon tank would be large enough :)

[@brianchrisman4331]

Will this thing reduce the flow to my drip garden beds? I have about 18 gpm from my water pipe. Then I will run it through a valve and a 10 psi regulator. I figure with the ammount of drip tape I have then I'll be needing 6.8gpm. Will I be ok with a fert injector installed after the regulator? And I don't want to always use fertilizer, so will everything work properly if I remove the intector and tubes but leave the venturi device attached? Or is this no ideal in this type of installation?

[@dripdepot]

I think you're on the right track :) Like any fitting or adapter, some loss will be incurred by adding it to the head assembly. It's fairly small in its overall length and has a fairly standard channel size (for 3/4" hose bibs) for water to pass through, so it does not cause significant losses. You mentioned passing it through a valve -- is this going to be a solenoid valve? If so, you might want to look into the EZ-Flo Mainline Dispensing units -- the EZ-Flo in this video is designed to operate from a hose bib -- though it can operate downstream of a solenoid valve on a run of pipe or tubing, it's going to take a few additional adapters to get it installed inline since the adapter itself is hose threaded. The mainline dispensing units use a PVC coupling valve instead of a hose adapter -- they're also a bit larger and the additional capacity might come in handy with a 6.8 GPM system flow rate. Unfortunately we haven't made a video for the mainline units yet, but it works very similarly -- just install the adapter (PVC coupling valve in this case) on the irrigation system, fill the tank with fertilizer, and pressure differential will do the rest. In regards to not always wanting to use fertilizer, that should be no problem with either injector (hose or mainline) -- they both come with coupling valves on the tubing that connects to the inline adapter. When you don't want to inject nutrients, you just turn those valves to their off positions, no need to remove the unit or inline adapter. Here is a link to the mainline dispensing systems so you can check it out, just in case it would be better for your application: www.dripdepot.com/main-line-dispensing-system

[@brianchrisman4331]

@@dripdepot Yeah I looked at the mainline ones, unfortionately the cost is huge vs the hose ones. I just won't use it enough to justify the extra cost (ntm like a dummy I already bought the wrong type regulators so I have hose threaded ones already). So I was wondering If I cld make a 2.5g one work in a pinch. And yes it'll be downstream of a solenoid switching valve

[@dripdepot]

@@brianchrisman4331 You bet, I do think you can make the 2.5 gallon one work :) You'll need a couple adapters, but that's fairly normal either way and shouldn't cause any issues -- the channel is short enough that the smaller 3/4" size shouldn't incur any significant losses unless this is a very high flow zone (I wouldn't anticipate heavy losses in the adapter from 6.8 GPM). If you're not using the "Fast" setting on the dial it should empty out at a reasonable rate too, so you won't have to be constantly re-filling it. I can also confirm downstream of the valve is the right place -- this one's not rated for constant pressure, so you're doing it exactly right having it after the control valve. :)

[@brianchrisman4331]

@@dripdepot awesome, thank you for the assistance!

[@rickeydesormeaux1552]

can you connect two ez-flo on the same water line to have the fertilizer mix in the water line instead or mixing it in the tank

[@dripdepot]

You can connect two EZ-Flo units on the same line (careful of the pressure drop though), but the fertilizer would still mix in the tank -- when water goes in the agitation tube vibrates and moves around and mixes fertilizer with water which is then pulled out through the suction tube and into the line. Possibly with enough modification something could be done to bypass some of that operation, but it could cause unforeseen problems.

[@rickeydesormeaux1552]

@@dripdepot i was referring to having two tanks and two hose Venturi connectors on the same main line with master blend in one tank and the calcium nitrate in the other as to have the fertilizer mix in the line instead of the tank

[@dripdepot]

@@rickeydesormeaux1552 Aha! Potentially, with some type of bypass setup leading back to the same pipe, but I don't think it would be reliable in regards to mixing unfortunately (or at least not without significant amounts of tweaking and testing). The hose connector that is the most upstream would delivery its mixture first, followed by the one upstream of it -- with two bypasses of equal distance and equal pressure, each one having the venturi hose connector on it but leading back to the same pipe after the bypass, it would maybe mix in the pipe. That's a pretty big maybe though unfortunately, enough variables are present that I think it would take a lot of testing. Interesting thought for sure though!

[@rickeydesormeaux1552]

@@dripdepot thats the set up we made it work great empty both tanks even

[@rickeydesormeaux1552]

pay attention to the valve setting no more mixing in the same tank and having it gunk from to high of an ec ...so now it mixes in the pipe at a lower ec no more gunk works great

[@ABlueDahlia]

When I ordered this product it states it requires a 40 PSI pressure regulator. -- Fine, order that. My drip lines require a 25 psi regulator. Fine.. order those. I have 2 zones. How am I supposed to do all 3? Also with a timer in that whole setup. as well.

[@dripdepot]

You can use this one with just the 25 PSI regulator if you prefer -- the 40 to 50 PSI regulator is just needed when using it with a non-drip system where pressure exceeds that number (it protects the tank from high pressure). Do you already have the timer? If not, you could use a multi-outlet timer so that each zone runs from its own outlet -- if you already do have the timer, all you'll need to do is move the tank to the outlet for each zone when it's time to water that zone. Alternatively, you could get a EZ-Flo for each zone so that each one as its own, but one can generally be moved pretty quickly since they're all threaded connections. The reason they have to either be moved or have one for each zone is due to constant pressure -- the tank isn't rated for constant pressure, so has to be relieved when the system is not in use -- unfortunately this means it cannot come before the timer and inject for all 3 zones. If any questions come up, please don't hesitate to drop a line, we'll be happy to help!

[@lancecarter4609]

Cool system, I guess if you cared about the pH levels you'd use a tank of water instead of the hose?

[@dripdepot]

You bet! Using a water tank with an injector like this does make pressure a concern, but they can work at surprisingly low pressure so typically just a little elevation will be enough.

[@happyfatskinnygirl]

Would this work for water soluble dry fertilizers? Could this be used for fungicides or insecticides?

[@dripdepot]

Yes all around :) If the fertilizer is water soluble, it can be added to the tank until nearly full -- adding a little water at the top (and/or bottom) to top it off is recommended, but the unit itself will mix incoming water with soluble fertilizer inside the tank and inject it into the lines. We do also see them used with pesticides, though to some degree the effectiveness will be determined by the emitter -- if you have soil pests causing problems, button drippers will deliver the solution to them in the soil, but wouldn't be as effective against pests that inhabit the foliage (looking at you, Aphids). For foliage pest removal, we've seen people use misting/spraying nozzles to great effect. Essentially, with a little planning it can be done effectively.

[@eddieable]

pretty sure this guys AI

[@dripdepot]

What a time we live in where that would even be possible! I'm not AI yet, but if you see videos of me looking the exact same 10 years from now, don't hesitate to leave this comment again just in case :)

[@RanveerJayani]

Hello Adam, I have never seen a video like this, concise and still detailed; simple to understand, yet full of all the important information. I was doubting if I should spend couple hundred dollars installing this. Your video cleared all my doubts. And I ordered the 1 gallon EZ-1010 HB today. A few questions: 1. I plan to install it after one of the anti-siphon sprinkler valve which I repurposed for drip irrigation. I have already installed a 25 PSI pressure reducer before the valve. Is 25 PSI sufficient to make it work? I will use it for about 30-40 potted plants. 2. Can it say in sun all the time? Thank you again !!

[@dripdepot]

Ranveer, thank you for the great feedback! Happy to assist :) 1. 25 PSI should be sufficient to get it working well -- we often recommend placing it after a 25 PSI regulator as it can help extend the life of it. 2. I would recommend placing it in the shade, for two reasons. The first is that in the sun it will get hot, which can soften it up a bit -- being softened and under pressure at the same time isn't ideal for it (though if it's unavoidable, the 1010HB is a bit less susceptible to it since it's significantly denser than the other HB units). The second reason is just degradation -- it's constructed of PVC which can break down faster than desired under UV exposure. If possible, give it some shade to rest in. If that's not possible, try to operate it during cooler parts of the day. If any follow-up questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out!