How to balance an RC Plane Propeller

In this video I show how to balance RC plane propellers using a common sanding method. I balance a Master Airscrew wood prop and plastic prop using sand paper to remove material from the heavy blade and adding weight to the hub using the baking soda and CA glue method. I also show how to use the Dubro Tru-Spin prop balancer and talk about the Great Planes prop hole reamer tool.
I show the basic steps of prop balancing that start with reaming the propeller hole, then balancing the blades, and then balancing the hub. There are other ways also to balance a prop by using clear spray paint to add weight to the heavy blade or to use tape to add weight to the heavy blades.
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community so I started RC Plane Tech channel. I fly with Futaba radio equipment, OS Max engines and Saito engines, Master Airscrew Propellers and APC propellers, Sullivan RC fuel tanks and hardware, Dubro RC fuel tanks and hardware and typically run Morgan Omega and Powermaster glow fuels. I fly ARF rc planes, but I also really like to build rc plane kits including Balsa USA RC kits, House of Balsa, Royal and Marutaka RC kits, Sig RC Kits. I use Monokote and other RC covering fabrics.

[@russcole5685]

Dude,. At the age of 45 and been flying close to thirty years,. Have always balanced my props, never have I thought of, or been told to look at the hub. Fantastic information. And happy New year from little New Zealand

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Great! Glad it was helpful. When I was young I never balanced props.. learn as we go. Thanks

[@easystar123]

Fantastic video and very well explained. I thoroughly enjoyed watching it. Thank you for sharing and happy landings.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[@strexttp]

Nice video

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks!

[@tedsmith6137]

Another reason to balance props for IC engines, is to avoid the problems of fuel foaming, which has caused deadsticks and unreliable engine tuning.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats something that makes a lot of sense, That would lean your mixture and potentially overheat your engine. Great point, thanks!

[@mikeeiben3430]

One thing I could say about propeller balancing is to rotate the prop on the fixture pin of the balancer. When you get close enough the balance will change with this rotation. At that point, you are within the limits of the balancer.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats an interesting point. I will check that out. This is maybe why in some cases you can’t completely find the p

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

….continued from my message that got cut off: so this is why sometimes you cant get a perfect balance? Something to consider next time, thanks

[@Smokeyr67]

Instead of using a knife to balance the hub, I use a micro drill to remove material from the heavy side. It’s a slow but accurate method.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

That makes sense! Ill try to remember that next time I balance

[@marcobuonavita2757]

Ottimo video , una elica ben bilanciata evita danni al motore e lo preserva nel tempo

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Grazie, sì è una buona cosa da fare. Inoltre è anche divertente!

[@billjones3071]

If prop is under 16” just blade balance is fine or I find you could easily chase your tail or do more damage than good, but thanks for the video nice work

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

I agree with you on the hub balance, good point. It gets harder and harder the smaller diameter. If its not that far off its fine to omit that step, but I thought to show it here. Thanks for the insight.

[@christopherknee5756]

"Running-in" an OS engine! What? Really? Not necessary. My OS 20FP started first flip and operated perfectly out-of-the-box. (All my other 4 OS engines, run perfectly with no running in required). Set the needle valve and flew a 1/12 scale combat event right away. Face it, you just like to doodle around wasting fuel and making a noise for nothing. Your engine crash story doesn't hold water either. For the engine to be SO badly damaged, the spinner would be concertina-ed or obliterated, not just have a little scratch. Also, edit your videos or work to a script. You repeat yourself over and over.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

According to the instructions of every O.S. engine I have ever bought, no only is running in required but the process is explained thoroughly in the directions. You are free to do whatever you want, but the safest course of action, both to follow and recommend to others is to follow manufacturers instructions as they know more about their engines than you do. Your comment is nothing but negativity, and cynicism from start to finish. Work on your people skills a little bit. Jeez!

[@RC-Flight]

Christopher, have you ever been accused of being an obnoxious ass? It’s his video, he can do as he’s see fit!

[@freed6343]

@christopherknee5756 You are totally incorrect. Unless an engine had been broken-in at the factory, a run-in period is necessary to prolong the life of the engine, in some cases beyond the first flight. Go ahead and try no break-in on a $2500 OS Gemini Twin- seize it up on your first flight, then tell me what an experienced model flyer you are. Judging from your comment, you'd probably blame the engine manufacturer. You might try reading the operating manuals that come with your engines. I found your comment to be rude and unhelpful to anyone who builds and flies model aircraft- not to mention just plain wrong. I just happen to still have the manual for my OS 91 Surpass: in it on page 3... "NOTE: Make sure the engine is fully 'run-in' before attempting continuous operation at full power! See RUNNING IN section" There is an entire section in the manual of how to properly run the engine in on page 2, Genius.