How to Bleed Brakes | Mazda 3 | Power Bleeder

[@markgibbons4937]

3:32 About to try that tomorrow. Thank you!

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching and hope it helped! Just did my second bleed 5 yrs later. Barely any air.

[@robertdidier2592]

I have read Motive Products on the adapter cap to use on a Mazda 3 2006 2.3 litre but cannot find a definitive answer what the exact size to fit my car. I don’t care to go the route of using a universal adapter as suggested by Motive Products. If you do know the exact size adapter and kit to use for my car from the Motive Products website please give it to me. To end, I cannot catch which year Mazda 3 you have or what MP kit or adapter you used.

[@OliverPorter92]

Motive Products 45mm European Bleeder Adapter amzn.to/2rhJP5G - this was what I used, not sure if 2006 is that much different (I would bet it is not, so recommend that).

[@realityhitsmehardbro]

Dude! Thank you so much for putting the link in the description for the proper bleeder adapter. It is not abundantly obvious on Power Motive's site which one works for a Mazda.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!

[@douglaslorin739]

I also offer my thanks. I ordered three different adapters and none worked. I just ordered the proper one.

[@KNACPUREROCK]

Thank you! I didn’t know about that split system.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Yes, an interesting design feature.

[@raymondmuzic4520]

1 Remove old fluid from reservoir and refill with new fluid before bleeding. 2 Use a 6-point socket to initially open the valve.

[@robertdidier2592]

Oliver what master cylinder cap did you use for your Mazda 2012. Part no# ?

[@OliverPorter92]

Per link in comments: amzn.to/2rhJP5G

[@neldias1718]

Great video! I'm buying one. Does the brake bleeding sequence you did with the Mazda 3 apply to other Mazdas like my car Mazda CX-3? Thanks for the mazda power bleed adapter link!

[@OliverPorter92]

The diagonal arrangement has been the default for several decades now. A diagonal split is safer in the event of the failure of one circuit: it leaves you with one front brake, whereas a F/R split could leave you with rear brakes only, and a vastly longer stopping distance.

[@GMoney-B]

This is awesome. So happy too to see a similar model and year. Mine is a 2012 mazda3 s. I had a squishy pedal that went to the floor. Did a brake bleed in the regular suggested order for all cars, tested it out and was almost back to normal but still a little squishy and sinks to floor at stops albeit much much slower now. I will be trying this new brake bleed order to see if that makes a difference and gets it back to normal. I have a question though. Almost all my bleeder valves leak a little sometimes when I opened the valves to bleed, and also leaked a smaller amount when I wiggled the valve to put the rubber caps back on. Is this normal? They don’t leak at all when not wiggling them or loosening them. What is normal here so I can know if I need to change my bleeder valves? I will have to change one of them thigh because whoever worked on my car before had nearly rounded off the bleeder valve but.

[@OliverPorter92]

I have not seen this, but I would monitor them. Eventually, the calipers and their hardware get old; the screws rust out and can be a source of fluid loss (I am going to have to replace them soon at 150K miles). This isn't a very scientific/experiential answer but hope it helps.

[@epicjas0n]

Did the new bleeding order help or should I just use the regular order?

[@GMoney-B]

@@epicjas0n I think it did. It's so hard to tell in my case and maybe in general with brakes? I had a savior of the internet comment on another comment of mine on this video or who the heck knows that told me to unscrew the brake fluid cap but resting ontop to keep dust out. Then pump the brake pedal 40-50 times. Lo and behold I did this and it fixed everything. All back to normal. The guy who suggested that was saying that it can help get air out of the lines in weird little places, especially the front calipers I think. Couldn't believe it. 4 brake fluid flushes later and this is what my problem was, lol. I will be doing this if I ever have any other problems with air in the lines, and also do this after bleeding all my brakes in the future for a flush.

[@douglaslorin739]

​@@GMoney-BI will try this too. Maybe a get a better pedal feel until my proper adapter comes in.

[@GMoney-B]

@@douglaslorin739 Awesome. Good luck to you. Also should mention that I was also adviced in the 40-50 times pumping that you don't need to and shouldn't push at the stopping point as this may weaken the diaphragm or other components in the brake booster. :)

[@rekoroad5295]

Thanks a lot for the video..

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Happy this helped.

[@tommah78]

Nice video, thanks.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Hope you found it helpful.

[@GMoney-B]

I assume that the cap of 45mm you used is the same for 2012 Mazda 3 sold in US?

[@Nick-wk2xo]

Did you need a separate adapter, or did the cap that came with the power bleeder work? I have the same car

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi! Thanks for watching - I had to buy both the bleeder and the adapter that I linked in the description. Good luck and have fun!

[@Nick-wk2xo]

@@OliverPorter92 thanks

[@PatrickMiles1]

Does the ABS system get affected or should I take any precautions with that?

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi - thanks for watching! This did not affect the ABS system, I did not do anything to it. Best of luck!

[@romain3948]

Avant de purger avec le power "bleeder", il faut que le liquide soit au niveau mini ou maxi dans le maitre cylindre? ----------- Before bleeding with the power "bleeder", it is necessary that the liquid is ADD or FUll in the master cylinder? Romain

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching, I did not adjust the fluid level in the master cylinder before bleeding, however it may make the process faster if it is full of fluid. Your goal should be to flush all of the old fluid out, so through the bleeding process you'll end up adding enough fluid to end the job at Full, with new fluid. I used 1 bottle of Prestone, hope this helps.

[@romain3948]

OK thank you. 😉

[@heymasonchen]

Great! Is the split system same as 2014 Mazda 6?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching. I am not sure about the '14 6, but most modern cars have diagonal splits for safety. Sorry this is not too helpful.

[@DENzi537]

Nice job, what’s the part number for the Mazda 3 reservoir cap adapter

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! PN 0100, amzn.to/2rhJP5G

[@speedracer175]

What about the nipple hose? What size and where to get it cheap?

[@O.thetuckingman]

What is the model number for the motive bleeder? I have the same car

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi - Thanks for watching! Motive Products 45mm European Bleeder Adapter amzn.to/2rhJP5G Prestone Dot 3 Brake Fluid, 32 oz. amzn.to/2KyBnXJ

[@TheSkysteve]

thanks

[@eyebeebak]

what's the order of the wheels to bleed out the brake fluid?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Passenger Aft --> Driver Forward --> Drive Aft --> Passenger Forward. It is a split diagonal braking system, and I bled the furthest lines in each circuit first. The reservoir is near Driver Forward, so starting at Pax Aft was the furthest line. Good luck!

[@eyebeebak]

@@OliverPorter92where do you live? i've never heard aft, forward referring to a car before.

[@OliverPorter92]

@@eyebeebak The Northeast. I think it's more of a function of my engineering day-job than where I am :)

[@nickblets69]

@@OliverPorter92 What about if the mazda 3 reservoir is located on the opposite side of the engine bay because its a mazda that's driven on the left side of the road, like in England? Do you still do the same procedure (rear right, front left, rear left, front right) or the opposite (rear left, front right, rear right, front left) ?

[@OliverPorter92]

@@nickblets69 Not sure, I would check Mazda forums to see whether it is split differently for UK variants

[@chuyvargas1016]

I can do this but i need old jeans to clean up the old brake fluid.

[@OliverPorter92]

Same! Thanks for watching

[@paulsingh9454]

I am looking for an adapter for an Acura can you help me out ?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Here is the website I used to find adapters: www.motiveproducts.com/pages/application-guide. Looks like Honda and Acura have one of two types of adapters, you will have to measure the cap on the reservoir to know which one to buy. One comes with the kit bleeder, the other does not. Hope this helps!

[@MegaDominican]

Whats the adapter for a honda accord 2007?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for Watching! Hondas may use two adapters, the 1119 (amzn.to/2A90P5y, poor reviews for 3" dia) and the 1101 (amzn.to/2WZxNyc, better confirm your '07 has 2.5" dia before ordering). Hope this helps!

[@dalilamoh1601]

The bubbles is not coming from the system it's coming from the bleed valve because you open the bleed valve stomach

[@GMoney-B]

What is the bleed valve stomach? The threads? Air coming through the threads? How are you supposed to bleed the brakes if turning the valve lets the air in?

[@dalilamoh1601]

To match

[@GMoney-B]

@@dalilamoh1601 haha. Thanks for the clarification. :)

[@MyEyesBled]

Most likely your soft peddle is a bad MC.... and the bubbles is air getting in at the bleeder screw threads

[@GMoney-B]

Speaking of which, most of my bleeder valves were leaking a little bit of fluid at the threads when I opened for bleeding. Is this normal for the bleeder valve to leak a little at the threads? Also, how do you tell the difference between air and a MC that needs to be replaced?

[@MyEyesBled]

@@GMoney-B

[@GMoney-B]

@@MyEyesBled Thanks so much for your reply. Replies on these types of troubleshooting issues are like gold to me. I forgot to mention that my brake bleeder valves do not leak at the threads whatsoever when I tighten them, it's just when they are turned open for bleeding when they leak a little bit. Is this normal for them to leak a little at the threads when they are turned open? I was using the bottle method with a submerged tube to get the air out. However, I am curious to get a helper to operate the brake pedal so I can tighten it after each pump. I would think if it's the threads leaking a little and air getting in that way, that using a helper might solve the issue. I am thinking of replacing the bleeder valves first, then the MC if needed before replacing the entire system. I also did not bleed my brakes in the right order the first time with the criss-cross system, before I was reading of people just using the routine farthest to closest. So I also want to try the right criss-cross order and see if that helps in addition to changing the bleeders. Thanks again!

[@MyEyesBled]

@@GMoney-B

[@GMoney-B]

@@MyEyesBled Awesome. Thanks guy. Ironically I have just been looking into things and came to that same conclusion of the pressure bleeder with the tank on it. I think I will get that sucker and feel like that will be great for the thread leaking issue when they are open. Takes out any possible communication or user error between helper and myself I would imagine. I think after doing it last time(my first time) and with a pressure bleeder tank that I will in fact be able to have fun, haha. Thanks again.

[@ryan00000]

brake fluid is corrosive yet you didn't wear gloves >:)

[@CROSSFIRE_TACTICS_SOFIA]

Thank you for the video

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching!