How To Bleed Your Brakes Using Motive Products Power Bleeder

[@darrylm3627]

Good Stuff, Great Help, Good Tips 👍Thanks!

[@StayOnTheGas]

No problem! Thanks for checking out the video 👍🏼

[@charleshines1553]

I like things like these, they make it so that one person can do it. This way I don't have to ask anyone for help who might tell me to take it to a shop or tell me that it is a waste of money. I also like the satisfaction of doing some of my own vehicle maintenance and it is something those people don't seem to get. Though brake fluid is known for getting contaminated with water and other nasty stuff with age, some people may have never flushed theirs. I am imagining a car maybe 20 years old and probably never had the brake reservoir cap removed since it left the factory and you can imagine how disgusting that fluid (or stuff that was once a fluid) is. I am no mechanic but I do my own oil and stuff like that. As long as the engine or transmission never need to come out or some other major job, I usually do it myself. Anything I doubt I could do myself, I take to a shop a few miles away (I live on back roads and can get there reasonably quick). I drive a Volkwagen and I like premium quality fluids like those from Liqui Moly. I find that when I do those things myself I can use the difference to pay for good fluids. I don't have anything against mechanics, it is just that they have to make a profit and often use very cheap fluids to help expand their profit margins. Ever look at the price of a synthetic oil change at an independent shop? It is fairly expensive, especially for the mediocre bulk oil they typically stock really. I don't name shop names because I am not that kind of person but I would say that it is wise to ask questions about how they do things. For example on a sealed automatic transmission, there is sometimes a stand pipe or overflow tube and not all mechanics understand how these work. Ask them how they check the fluid level because it is sometimes different from vehicle to vehicle. On my Passat, that is with the engine running and at operating temperature. You would take the first plug out and see if any fluid drips out of the overflow tube, if not add some. If not don't while the vehicle is running (in park preferably for safety!!) it will be underfilled when the plug is removed. To drain the fluid, the overflow tube must be removed but *MAKE SURE THEY DON'T LOOSE IT!!!!!* , it needs to go back in there for the refill and fluid level check or they may owe you a replacement transmission for their mistake!

[@sirsweetness8332]

I just bought this power bleeder and it did a great job. I power bled the system while actuating the ABS pump with a computer. My daughter lost her brakes while driving. Blew a rubber brake line up front. Put 2 new rubber lines and new master cylinder on.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Glad you got it fixed. I hope she wasn’t hurt! So scary

[@sirsweetness8332]

@@StayOnTheGas She used her E-brake that I just had put all new brakes around and tightened up her E-brake. It stopped her well. A friend drove it home for her.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Glad to hear everything was okay!

[@surfingfree]

Thanks man watch another video using this tool was confused but after watching this you clear it out. Good detail instructions 👌

[@jamesanderson4014]

Good video good product. Bleed procedure vary a little right rear start most vehicles some vehicles next wheel left front then left rear and last right front specific to some Chrysler's and to some other vehicles called diagonal brake bleed. Specific to certain vehicles. Appreciate video.

[@pontiacsrule8761]

Great job explaining the tool in detail. Nice family making the video, cheers....

[@terrycarlin2443]

Great Video , my thought is where does that Air in-between Pressure tank to reservoir go when you start to Bleed ? Does it get pushed into brake-line? Or just stay on top of reservoir? Im thinking , do i need to prime line from Tank to reservoir , to get Air out First. Well im doing Service today So ill find out Thanks for Tutorial Very Easy to Understand

[@socalfun64]

I know this video is old, but it was VERY HELPFUL Bro! Thank You!

[@Need2Build]

Thanks for sharing the cool tool, how much brake fluid did you pour into the power bleeder before starting the flush? Thanks brother!

[@StayOnTheGas]

I like to pour the whole bottle in. They’re pretty inexpensive and if I pour the whole thing in, I know I don’t have to worry about having to add more mid way through the job

[@ainstaink8312]

It is always great to have helper..like you had your wife recording you :) But great video! I enjoyed watching it!

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thank you! :) Yes, help is always a plus lol

[@phizz8694]

I like the video. Only suggestion I would say about bleeding the brakes is to look at the service manual for any car and check where to bleed first. I know for my car its stating I should start up front on the passenger side and work counter clockwiseb (2015 Crosstrek ). Thanks for the video and I have the same kit!!

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thanks. That’s a weird way to do it but I’m sure they say to do it that way for a reason

[@phizz8694]

@@StayOnTheGas , by the way, did you ever run into issue with the hoses that connects the adapter and the tank not keeping pressure. Ran into that issue and had to get teflon tape to fix it

[@MrMrsregor]

just need to start on the furthest from master and work your way around to the closest. so it depends on master location and how the lines are routed

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

It has to do with where your antilock brake module is located if the module with all the lines is up front you start in rear first if your module is in rearward area you start front first 👍🏻

[@Prombaket]

Thanks for the video. I just received this bleeder yesterday, I'm going to flush the brake fluid on my Tiguan, but I didn't check if the bleeder cap fits my car's reservoir I hope it does. 🤞

[@R6Bandit88]

Great video man! I was hesitant about buying this product, but you made it look so easy. Buying now!!!

[@crabboy01]

Easier than he way I used to do it, nice tip. Why not just use the reservoir adapter and use a compressor at 10-15 psi and bleed each until you reach the min level, refill and repeat. Its a bit more work, but you don't have to mess with the brake fluid in the tank and hoses.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Yeah it can be done that way. Just have to have a regulator either on the line or on the compressor itself. I just hate hearing the compressor going off in the garage while I’m in there working.

[@JihminyCricket]

Thanks for the video man, it's gunna me and my family out. Stay awesome bro, blessing to you and yours.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thank you!

[@RasSosa]

Hello sir, love you video, very family oriented, wifey joined in which is cool, no like the piro techs though that lets me know you have taken science project before, LMTO. I will use this to help my purchase... Ta bueno!

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thank you!! 🙏🏼

[@hugonolasco8296]

I have a question about, the the red cap you put work on Nissan pathfinder 2008 master cylinder?

[@johnnnyo1]

You're supposed to hang the bottle over the caliper so air rises up and out. You probably still have air in your system.

[@ggtaruc2578]

Great video. When you are done depressurized the line and unscrewing the power bleeder cap from the reservoir isn't there fluid left in the bleeder tubing? What do you do so it does not spill as you remove the cap?

[@StayOnTheGas]

Honestly just keep a rag ready

[@duey1083]

After removing the old fluid out of the reservoir and refilling it with fresh fluid prior to hooking up the power bleeder, is there any risk of introducing air into the lines? When you pressurized the power bleeder, you could see air moving through those lines...I guess I'm just confused how it doesn't get into the brake system.

[@StayOnTheGas]

As long as you don’t completely empty out the reservoir, no air will be introduced to the system. The air in the power bleeder line you see stays in the reservoir so nothing goes into the lines. Plus, when you’re bleeding each line, go until you see clear fluid with no bubbles and you’ll know you have fresh fluid and no air 👍🏼

[@duey1083]

@@StayOnTheGas Thank you for the very detailed reply! Much appreciated :)

[@StayOnTheGas]

No problem!

[@RocknRollZombie13]

Think about it, this is to remove the air in the lines & replace the fluid. So if you follow directions you will be just fine no air

[@richardfabrizio8998]

Nice job. Happy motoring

[@marcosruiz8444]

Very helpful and educational video. Good work 😄

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thanks!!

[@lebaneseeagle5196]

great job thank you for the video very helpfull

[@StayOnTheGas]

Of course! Glad it was helpful

[@gmp203]

Bleeding your brakes didn’t get rid of the shaking, New rotors new tires and tire balance is what fixed the shaking.

[@charleshines1553]

I have seen videos in which they say they use Vaseline to help make a seal. That is not a good idea, Vaseline is petroleum! You can't have petroleum in the brake system, it will wreak havoc on all the rubber seals. Use silicone if you must and look at the MSDS for it to ensure it is free of any petroleum. Also don't use any that you think might be contaminated (like if you think anyone may have inadvertently cross contaminated it by using something that was in contact with petroleum without being thoroughly cleaned of all traces)

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Fantastic job sir thank you

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thank you! Hope it helps 👍🏼

[@jeffreygwinn5081]

What fittings did you use at the power bleeder hose and adapter end. There at the union.

[@StayOnTheGas]

It’s a quick connect they sell on their website

[@edgbostonnorth7167]

Thank you...good stuff!

[@darkoradenkovic5538]

Is this method suitable for cars with ABS?

[@FujiboHeavy]

Great vid! Thank you!

[@RocknRollZombie13]

It's called a "Zerk Fitting"

[@ManzellaBob]

Never let brake fluid get onto paint! Which you did not.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Did I let that happen? Lol I know not to!

[@2000carnut]

How did the brake fluid change affect the steering wheel from pulsating or vibrating? I didn't know those were connected

[@StayOnTheGas]

The brake flush doesn’t affect steering or vibration. This video is connected to the previous 2 videos of the Jeep where I get new tires, alignment, and pads & rotors. I just had to do the flush before driving it

[@2000carnut]

@@StayOnTheGas ah that makes sense. Good stuff!

[@StayOnTheGas]

Thanks!

[@RamzyTheDad]

@@StayOnTheGas I was wondering why the rotors looked so clean. Everything makes sense!

[@StayOnTheGas]

Yeah I should’ve explained that lol

[@ggtaruc2578]

Great video. Just a comment. There really is no need to remove the wheels....unless you were just doing it for ease to video. That's more work than needed.

[@StayOnTheGas]

Pretty sure I had just done the brakes

[@joaquinsandoval7156]

I’ve done this 20 million times and it won’t work for me. New brake booster, master cylinder, new calipers, rotors,pads you name it. Do a test for leaks and it holds pressure. So the bleeding according to manual of my Nissan 240sx 1993 which the sequence is different still did it in the order you did it and still getting a soft pedal. What else it could be?

[@StayOnTheGas]

That’s weird. 93 so I’m guessing it probably doesn’t have abs? If it does, it could be something with that

[@joaquinsandoval7156]

@@StayOnTheGas no abs just regular. Someone replied to me saying that I need to bench press my master cylinder, first time I hear that there’s always something new to learn

[@octuple505]

@@joaquinsandoval7156 what you are experiencing is classic problem when replacing the master cylinder, always bench bleed. Did your problem clear up?

[@joaquinsandoval7156]

@@octuple505 I did it and after dealing with it and getting frustrated I stop working on the car. Still have to check and last thing that i could thing about not getting pressure on my breaks is to check my lines that connect to the booster and make sure theres no leaks. But overall NO i still havent been able to fix the issue.

[@octuple505]

@joaquinsandoval7156 I realize you've been working this for a bit and it's frustrating. You mentioned replacement of the booster as well as master cylinder. The symptoms and trouble shooting steps you've noted point toward the booster push rod and break pedal connector. There are a few videos, I had this problem with my old Ford truck. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3XPq2pjjZiGaMk&feature=share8