How To Build a 240V / 20A PID Controller

In this video we build a 240 volt PID controller with switch to accept a K thermocouple.
Electrical Box: amzn.to/2LlzLFQ
PID Kit: amzn.to/3ucjRyN
Switch: amzn.to/3nxrsUB
Electrical Gland: amzn.to/3nveEhp
Wire: amzn.to/3bmiRSg
Receptacle: amzn.to/39irNFx
Receptacle cover: amzn.to/3bjPCQ2
2 Pin Aircraft connector: amzn.to/38uLlYd
3Pin Aircraft Connector: amzn.to/3nztVh7
Amazon support link amzn.to/33HhsOH
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Music: www.bensound.c...
Videos are for Entertainment only, Use these at your own risk.

[@johnnytoy5487]

I put a 5 volt computer fan powered with a phone charger, which will except 120 / 240 volt. A indicator light when the PID fires, a volt meter. Also I like Inkbird and Rex PID controllers. 👍 Good build. I just like whistles and bells.

[@2TrailHikers]

Great idea.

[@geeljireoomaar6140]

Thanks bro very informative and easy to follow

[@2TrailHikers]

Thank you.

[@brentberger5252]

Great build! Any idea how to wire a second on/off switch to a secondary 120v outlet for an accessory or pump?

[@davelee3360]

What is the biggest heating element this will handle?

[@misfitssxs]

So one side of the receptacle and whatever is plugged into it is gonna have 120v running to it at all times if the box is plugged in?

[@lacquerhead6938]

Sorry if you already mentioned this but I was wondering if the line in black wire is always hot after you plug it in? Or are you wired directly to the breaker panel? I've only used electromagnet relays, and those have zero hot wires until the magnet is powered. Just trying to understand this type of relay, thanks for the video.

[@2TrailHikers]

The hot leads coming in are hot from the breaker.

[@shaknit]

Does anyone know of a pid controller that will vary the voltage output rather than just cycle on and off. Thanks

[@viktormorris194]

A PID controller will vary voltage output by definition. If you want more functionality maybe a ramp soak PID is what you're looking for?

[@USA__2023]

There are plenty of PID contrillers that can vary the output voltage. You need one that has an analog output. The most common analog outputs are 4-20ma, 0-10vdc, and 0-5vdc. To get a true varying voltage output you will also need what's called a "phase angle power controller". most phase angle power controllers are not cheap. Watlow and Tutco make them. The one from Tutco will do 30amps and runs around $ 170.00. The Watlow controllers come in varying sizes.

[@johnnytoy5487]

Also a 120 volt auxiliary plug.

[@2TrailHikers]

👍

[@alvincolbert4934]

I build a PID controller for my one kettle is 240 volts it worked fine on my one kettle then I bought a beggar heater eminent which is 240 volt to 380 I hooked it up and it blew my relay switch do I need to buy a bigger relay switch than a 40 like a 60 or 80 or 100 amp relay switch to keep it from blowing my relay please give me some advice thank you much

[@2TrailHikers]

How many watts is the new element.

[@jonleone777]

Why did you wire for 220.all other builds i see are 120. Just curious.

[@2TrailHikers]

Running a 220 heating element.

[@byronholt4912]

So you’ve got a heat sink dissipating heat into a sealed box?

[@2TrailHikers]

Yeh but seems to be ok for now.

[@byronholt4912]

Could definitely use some vent holes above and below that heat sink. It will extend the life of your solid state relay.

[@2TrailHikers]

@byronholt4912 been thinking to put a small fan to exhaust it out.

[@jerryblankenship9908]

Where can I get a kit

[@2TrailHikers]

Links are in the description.

[@DontStopBrent]

The pid kit link no longer functions. Not sure if u can change that.

[@2TrailHikers]

I will check on it ASAP

[@cneibert75]

What is the 2 pin air craft thing for. I dont under stand what that's for at all

[@2TrailHikers]

It allows you to connect and disconnect the thermocouple without disassembling the box. The k thermocouple is 2 wires some other types are 3 wire.

[@cneibert75]

Lol I still dont understand. I thought it hooked to the pid then was installed in the top of the column in my still

[@2TrailHikers]

You are correct the air craft connector goes in the wiring between where it connects to the pid and the thermocouple. You could omit it and just run the wire through a hole in the box to connect it directly to the pid.

[@USA__2023]

@@2TrailHikers You should use the proper terminology for the temp sensor. The average person hears thermocouple and then you mention 3 wire thermocouple? So they're going to look for a thermocouple. The connector you're using is fine for a 2 wire RTD ( PT100, or PT1000), but not for a thermocouple. When you use thermocouples you should use thermocouple connectors and thermocouple lead wire. The best temp sensor for anything that controls temps under 750 deg F is an RTD / PT100, or PT1000. This way you don't have to worry about special connectors or wiring. They also don't use the built in cold joint compensation circuitry that is needed for thermocouples, which can cause inaccuracy depending on the ambient temperature.

[@cneibert75]

Where is the wire diagram

[@2TrailHikers]

End of video at 28:27

[@heathertaylor4227]

Do you build these to sell thanks

[@2TrailHikers]

I'm sorry I don't.

[@manojmanu8901]

Sir temperature not working properly

[@2TrailHikers]

Not sure maybe defective unit