How to build a Cheap, Simple, Reliable Steel Target Stand!

Love shooting steel? Need a good stand to hold it in place while not breaking the bank? Through trial and error, I've found a good solution!
Timestamps:
Materials/Tool List: 1:44
Part 1A Making the Base (Frame): 5:50
Part 1B Making the Base (2'x4' Holder): 9:14
Base Complete!: 12:38
2'x4' Base Option: 13:06
Making the Stand 16:39
Putting the Target on with Hardware: 21:07
Final Cost/Final Thoughts 26:35

[@pewpew9193]

We made something like a short sawhorse. Put I-bolts into the bottom of the top 2x4 & used S-hooks to attach the plates to the bolts. There is enough space between the plates & the wood that it rarely gets hit. I've not had to repair it in over a year.

[@ExtremelyAverageMan]

Also a good option. Now the problem I face is dragging multiple targets and building material 100+ yards on public land to shoot...might build a wagon to haul all of it soon haha.

[@stanwooddave9758]

Could you please provide me with the dimensional width of the bolt hole's ( the ears) on your 1/2" plate steel. My guess from drawing it up in my CAD program is 7.5" in. approx. Center (of hole) to Center (of hole.) PS, I have no clue as to how in my comment below, their is a "strike-through" line towards the bottom. YoutTube never fails to keep me guessing.

[@stanwooddave9758]

Well, as a fat old (69 yr's) semi-retired welder, I gotta say he tries like hell. I was laughing only because I have a background of 25 plus year's as a Heavy Collision Repair, 5 yr's Painting (1986 -1991) for Boeing Aircraft, another 5 yr's as a ship yard welder, welding little 400' ft. canoe's, with a full size Helicopter landing pad's on the bow of those little boats. Just so you know, most Carriage Bolt(s,) come with a "shoulder," (that would be the square part you filed down,) or you can purchase Carriage Bolt(s,) without a shoulder. Just in case you don't know, the true purpose of the square shoulder, is so the fastener / bolt, can be put into a square hole, so as to prevent the bolt from turning; as you tighten / loosen the nut. Think of it as a semi-hidden bolt head, i.e, where you would put a wrench to secure / hold the Bolt-Head, to prevent turning. I would have hand filed the two round hole(s,) into two square hole(s.) Yes more work, but much more productive as for later wood replacements. Odd's are you purchased 1/2" in. X 13 thread(s) {per inch,} a very common thread pitch. I would have gone with "Butterfly" nut(s) / fasteners, it won't break your bank account, and will make it easier when replacing the 2 x 4's. Instead of "filing down" the shoulder, put the bolt, (threaded end into your drill,) don't tighten like your trying to save the world, so as not to damage the threads. Now grab your hand and or bench grinder, and Bob's your uncle. Yes your using your drill kinda as a metal lathe. If your dril;l say turns a max of 600 rpm's, don't use the max, try approx. 1/2 (half) or less RPM's (i.e., 300-400 RPM's.) Your'll be able to figure out the Goldy-Loc's amount, very quickly. For the "Support" for the vertical 2" x 4", I would have gone with a piece rectangle steel tubing, 1/8" in. wall, or used some angle iron (1" in. X 1" in.) In that one little section, I think you got lost in the forest, (i.e., way too much work / over engineered LOL,) if you catch my drift. Yes you mention that you used 18' ft. of No.#: -4 Rebar, but I have no clue what the dimensions are for the basic long feet, or the cross width(s.) LOL. Now as for welding, if you just try over time; to always make your next weld, better than your last, you'll go far. Rome wasn't built in a day, and no one learns to weld in 5 minutes, try, try, try again. And when you think you have mastered it, weld some more, every day welding, school is in secession. I'm still learning about welding, (@ 69 yr's) but I do love it. This will make you feel good, I use a very old (big in size, because no electronics) transformer welder. Must weight approx 400 pounds or more, I kid you not, talk about a dinosaur of a welder. I can weld all day long, no worries Tig (AC/DC), Stick, and I use to hookup my suitcase welder to it, but didn't truly like the beads it ran with the big old bird, (because of CC- Constant Current) purchased a newer (late 1990's CV -Constant Voltage, for Mig-Welding) power supply/welder. My also late 1990's portable welder (Miller Trail Blazer) is a CC/CV machine. Love running stick and my Suitcase with that. Also FYI: for Stick welding you want DC- CC- Constant Current, for Mig Welding you want CV -Constant Voltage.