How to Build a Chevy 383 Part 5 - Lifters & Rockers

Final part in the series "How to build a 383 Stroker Engine" explains how to install hydraulic lifters and roller rockers and how to adjust rockers quickly, easily and properly. This video also gives tips on installing timing covers and valve covers so you will never have a leak!
More info, photos and videos are available at www.corvettesan...
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Hope this series has helped a few people and thank you for your support!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. I was embarrassed to upload these videos because I am also a professional film maker and "one handed iPhone" videos were not the way I wanted to do these but I am glad they have helped. More cool stuff coming!

[@EconomicDisconnect]

Great videos and information. I built two 383's years ago, and Lingenfelters "How to Hot Rod Small Block Chevys" was the bible. Given you had mostly used parts it was a nice build.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you very much. I am a professional film maker and car builder so filming myself build an engine with one hand, junk parts and an iPhone was not my IDEAL way to shoot this but I think most people got the idea and learned a lot. I just hope people look at the NICE engines on my website! LOL Thanks again.

[@p1zh31pm3]

I have watched all your 383 videos and they are helping me a lot. Thank you.

[@seanchavarria1952]

Great video. I appreciate this guys detailed process and methodical work.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. it was a junk engine and there is always info. left out or forgotten but I hope it helps! Watch my "Engine Dress Up" series for tips on installing the externals. You can also see my latest builds at facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms

[@barrycassaday]

Great series of videos. Appreciate your taking the time to do this.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you very much. Appreciate you watching and sharing!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. I am also a professional film maker so filming myself building an engine with one hand using an iPhone was torture! LOL I have gotten LOTS of positive feedback and I am happy to hear these videos have helped and inspired people. BTW I have a friend with a 70 Monte that is just rough enough and could use a "new" engine.....

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I like the TPI Z28. I just started working at Chevrolet when they came out. If you want a couple more "low cost" HP you can install roller tip rockers (about 1 HP per cylinder) or full roller rockers (worth about 2 HP per cyl.) (depending on budget). You should also install a K&N air filter or full K&N cool intake system. (Another 5 - 15 hp) You can also find other COTTON air filters or oil to match the color of your car just for S's & G's. Lastly, headers and a Flowmaster muffler.

[@Fullthrottle440Garage]

really enjoyed that & learned a thing or two. Thanks!

[@chevyman420combust8]

very nice. very detailed thanks this will help me with my build.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+chevyman420 combust Thanks. Give me a shout if you have any questions. You can also download a great "wish list/cheat sheet" on my website that will help you organize and plan your build. Go to the "Build Sheet" page on www.corvettesandcustoms.org and drag or copy to your computer or printer for free.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. Redoing the heads should help if EVERYTHING was done on them. As long as the lifters are in good shape and not collapsed or rusty. After a cam is broke in you usually want to replace the cam and lifters together. More work, etc. The important thing is to NOT pull out the rockers or get them mixed up. They wear to the cam and can't change position unless they are ROLLER lifters (and cam). $139 for a new Edelbrock intake and $300 Holley carb would also help. Just did that to my truck.

[@maximilliankolb]

Yea I made sure to keep them in order so as to account for that. My Z-28 is TPI, Will look into the intake though. Thanks alot for the speedy reply!

[@maximilliankolb]

Awesome! Thanks for the tips. I am actually in the process of working on a transmission problem I have to get the thing running properly first. Car doesnt want to go into 3rd or 4th without playing around. Will hop into neutral if you don't do it right. Going to try a B&N Shift Kit to try and tighten up a little bit. Definitely will go for some aluminum heads and Flowmaster later down the budget line. Thanks again. Im learning.

[@Beandiptheredneck]

Thanks for posting, my buddy has a 383 in a 90 silverado, I don't think you mentioned that you also have to bore the block to achieve 383 cubes? I learned a lot from this series

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you very much. You do need to bore a 350 to make a 355 but you may want to do a little research on whether or not you need to bore the block to make a 383 out of a 350 if you don't want to take my word for it. 350s are not EXACTLY 350 cid and so on. The EXACT displacement on an engine depends on the bore, the rods, the pistons, the heads and even the cam. Thanks again. I have some shows coming on buying and flipping classic cars so stay tuned!

[@souprchrgd]

I enjoyed your series. Great job. Very informative.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you very much. I try to cover stuff others don't cover and TRY to inject some humor. D'oh!

[@awfishing6179]

Hey this series has really helped me I don't know a whole lot im 21 but learn fast getting ready to build my grandpas 50s chevy truck with a 350 I want 383 it has a straight sucks right now but hes not sure yet what loctite do you use on the crank seals on timing cover plate and wheel on cam shaft thanks adam thumbs up man

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks man I appreciate it. I use red loctite but make sure to only use a drop or so so that it gets on the threads but does not drip or get anywhere else. The yellow super weatherstrip adhesive is to glue gaskets into place. Rule of thumb is use super weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket onto whatever is coming OFF the engine, i.e: Timing cover, valve cover, water pump, thermostat housing, etc. Then use the Ultra Grey permatex to seal the engine side of the gasket. I usually do just the opposite though on the oil pan. Glue and spooge and you will never have a leak!

[@Deadbydawn71]

Awesome series of videos! I learned alot. Thanks!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. I appreciate it!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

After I snug the rockers I turn the crank and see which valve moves first and go from there. There is usually plenty of cam lube and spooge on a new engine so it's not a problem turning the engine over by hand. Also priming the oil pump BEFORE you install the oil pump is important. You also have to prime the oil pump after you install the engine before you start it. You can do it any order. Just watch the valves move and mark them after you adjust them so you don't get lost.

[@aronmartinez61]

Good videos man learned a lot my 350 just went out and not to sure where to evam start on the rebuild

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks. Find a good machine shop you can work with and see if they have any unbored 350 4 bolt main blocks. A 350 is going to be a LOT easier and less expensive than a stroker. There are "build sheets" on my website to print out and help you decide what you want to build with a list of options. corvettesandcustoms ORG

[@aronmartinez61]

Is there a way I can get 400 hp out of it ? Im thinking if im going to re do it ima do it right

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Aron Martinez I am getting ready to do a 400hp 350 for a 61 Chevy right now. 10:1 compression, good cam (check out "camquest" on comp cams website), HEADS are the most important. Need GOOD head work done to get the power (ported, opened up with big valves) if you have the $$ aluminum heads help a lot with flow and weight.

[@aronmartinez61]

SanDiegoHotRod 10:1 compression is that a different type of gas already or still the same unleaded ? Do you recommend those scat kits ?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Aron Martinez 10:1 you can still use premium pump gas. Scat has good kits as well as a few others. Main thing is to use a 4 bolt block .030 over (or new) good pistons and a steel crank. I get a lot of parts from Summit Racing and they offer cranks to complete kits. Work with your machine shop and plan it out ahead of time. BALANCE everything to get a smooth ride and longer life from the motor (engine).

[@brandonsaddler99]

These videos are awesome! You are the exact person for my questions if you don't mind answering them, there aren't many. I have a 1987 5.7L 350 that I want to make into a 388 stroker, I know what that consists of (.060 bored chambers with a 400 crank). my questions are: what heads would you recommend for this build and will I face any overheating problems with .060 bored chambers? I've had a few people tell me I would, but in my opinion after watching these videos, your answer us what I will go with.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Brandon Saddler Thanks man. First thing is if you are here in California with a smog legal car you are screwed. LOL That being said if you are free to build whatever you want then you need to answer a few questions. Truck or car? Budget? Time? Carb or fuel injection? If you look at my other videos with the RED small block I built it goes like this: Always use a new or un rebuilt block (preferably 4 bolt) so you only have to go .030 over. You can then rebuild the block again down the road after a couple hundred thousand miles. The cylinder walls are thicker and stronger . Heating is not necessarily the problem. Plus 30 over pistons are easier and cheaper to get with lots of choices on cast or "hyper erotic" (lol) manufacturing. Your machine shop should be able to find you a good block. $200 - $400 The heads are where MOST of the power is made. If you have the money Brodex, World Products, Edelbrock, etc. all give good head options. Lately I have been using Pro Comp aluminum heads. They are made in China but if you are on a budget they are great. Whatever you get I prefer aluminum (for weight, flow, cooling and looks) and the Pro Comp heads "go both ways" for either carb or newer/Vortec style intake manifold. Get 200cc intake runners or bigger with 2.02 intake valves, etc. Again your machine shop should be able to help you with this. Here it is only about $500 more in the long run to do these aluminum heads over stock. You should NEVER need more than a 650cfm carb on a small block or 45lb injectors. There is a company on eBay that makes 2 LARGE row aluminum radiators that have worked well for me. I usually run a mechanical fan (Summit labeled Flex aLite plastic fan $20) and an electric fan BEHIND the radiator that PULLS instead of blocking the air flow in front that stays on or you can switch on in traffic or extreme conditions. Water Wetter also seems to help in heating problems. If you go on my website there is a build sheet or "wish list" that you can print out or copy that will help you plan and budget your engine build. Take it to your machine shop and they will love you for it! It makes life much easier for everyone. Thanks again and hit up my FB page for all the latest. I also have a new music video coming out with a 65 Chevelle as the star! Shan www.corvettesandcustoms.org facebook.com/corvettesandcustom

[@brandonsaddler99]

Well I'm quite a long way from you, I'm in Alabama where they don't care about smog for the time being. Will this "wish list" help me with all desires for what I want out of the engine?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Brandon Saddler You can copy and paste, drag and drop or just print the wish list/build sheet. You can check what you want - i.e. aluminum heads, steel crank, etc. and then check on Summit Racing the prices for what you want and the options. You can then talk to your machine shop about the same parts and prices and their warranty.

[@FernandoAlonso89]

Very helpful videos. thanks a lot!

[@MrElPoderozo1]

Great video! Thanks for the tips👍

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

No problem. Thank you!

[@CaCioSheE]

Your videos are phenomenal!! I have come to understand so many things from accidentally finding one of your videos, thankfully!! I am subscribed! Just one question.. what is the song at the end of this video? TIA!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you so much! You can find a great "Build Sheet" on my website www.corvettesandcustoms.org that helps you plan and budget an engine build before you get started. You can also see my newest projects on my Facebook page facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms The song at the end is called "Freakin Out" by Eric Sage. You can find it at www.ericssage.com or on iTunes.

[@markgera1]

Were guide plates not required? I see some rocker manufacturers claiming " self aligning" rockers. I have a new set of 1.6 aluminum rockers to put in, but I hesitate because I don't have screw in studs and guide plates. I currently have a .480" lift cam and stock heads. Any input on this topic? Thanks Nice video

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you Mark. Yes on this engine with these heads and these rockers no guide plate was necessary. Guide plates are good to have and you should look close at the rockers you have but on these rockers a few things help keep everything aligned. The holes on the heads the push rods pass through are fairly tight but mostly the pivot point where the rocker sits on the stud is a long straight hole through the center axle/axis/pivot point/fulcrum (whatever you want to call it) keeps the rocker from wobbling. On a regular stamped steel rocker the round bottom rocker "ball" under the nut sits inside a rounded "tub" allowing the rocker to move around. The "self aligning" part you can see at 2:04. On the roller tip you can see a "lip" on the outer edges of the roller that sits on each side of the valve stem to keep the rocker from moving sideways as it rolls over the valve stem and pushes the valve stem down. Some stamped steel "roller tip" rockers have the same thing. When i work on a project I try to stick to 3 main categories. 1. Stuff you NEED 2. Stuff you COULD USE 3. Stuff you DON'T need If your heads are old with press in rocker studs you could use screw in studs (and then why not guide plates) because rocker studs are known to pull out of older engines. Hope this helps. Thanx again. Shan.

[@JoseBravo-us9ij]

awesome video.

[@maximilliankolb]

Very helpful vid series. I recently had my heads cleaned out and new rocker springs put on. Would this create a problem if I did not replace the hydraulic lifters? The engine seems a bit sluggish. Thanks!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Wyatt Thank you. Externally the 383 will be the same and will work great with the truck and fuel injection. You need to check your local smog laws, open your exhaust with headers or better mufflers, check the programming and injector setup. You may need bigger injectors and/or programming for your ECM.

[@awfishing6179]

Another question what is the super weatherstrip adhesive for

[@thomasflessen9705]

Hello good videos you have! i am assembling my balanced zz383 gm performance v8. i wonder if you give the engine oil pressure before adjusting the valves?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thomas Flessen Thank you. I don't prime the oil pump until the engine is completely assembled and ready to start. I use either a priming tool or the shaft off an old distributor. The new lifters should be okay for adjusting out of the box. If they are collapsed already there may be a problem. Just don't crank them way down right off the bat. Do it slow and easy and you will get the feel for it (the up and down play on the rocker).

[@antoniomadrid1752]

What type of head are you use on that block, casting? intake and exhaust valve? good video

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. These heads are stock Chevy Vortec heads. They are designed to flow better than older cast heads. If you look at my new video "Dress Up" series you can see an after market aluminum head that works incredible! Thanks.

[@keithl8740]

any broken rocker arm studs yet? screw in studs always good insurance no matter what kind of build

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Rocker arm studs are fine but yes screw in studs are always better. I am replacing the stock push in studs on my dad's 71 Chevy truck. It has a 350 and the studs are pushing out. The complete kit to replace studs is not very expensive from Summit Racing but some people are just cheap like the guy who wanted me to build this engine without doing everything it needed to do it right. Never again....

[@Kim-bh8kk]

you are very good but try using the mating cylinder with overlap to adjust your vales

[@domdaddd]

The proper way to adjust valvs acc to Chevrolet you brung the cyl to tdc and then adjust both valvs 5/8 turn after 0 lash

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Timing should also be set at 6 degrees before TDC. When you build specific build engines or tune a car for performance numbers change. You should set the base timing and total advance according to the car/truck you are working on. Base timing can be 12 degrees BTDC depending on fuel, engine, weight of car, race application, supercharger (blower) etc. Total advance should be 36 degrees @ 3000 rpm. Tires on an off road truck also change. Higher pressure for street, lower pressure for off road. Valve adjustment also changes how an engine performs. Adjust (hydraulic) lifters 1/2 turn to 1 full turn past 0 lash. 1/2 turn for higher rpm performance, 1 full turn for more low end torque. Again, fuel, weight of car, performance application, etc. are all factors.

[@n0isyb0y1]

How much hp is that motor going to make.

[@bobbyd9583]

So why use flat hydraulic lifters when this late model block supports a factory spider hold down for hydraulic roller lifters ? I would think this trends away from performance and reliability. Not that flat bottom hydraulics are known as problem parts, but a good mild lift roller cam definitely lends to making more peak power. I say mild only because the roller rockers are in place and the pistons had releif cuts, but not fly cut for big lift....that and we know that you can't just throw a huge cam at a motor with nearly stock heads, which also leads to the why not vortec, or alloy heads... seems like a waste of a stoker crank, especially if this is being built to produce big power (otherwise why bother building a stroker?)

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Bobby D This was just a junk engine that someone brought me in a box of crap that he wanted put together. This was a few years ago way before I uploaded it. Take a look at my FB page to see some of my newer stuff. facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms

[@brandonsaddler99]

Also, you the way you worded your answer; you wouldn't recommend I use my 87 350?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Brandon Saddler I would not rebuild a small block 60 over. I would spend the $200 - $300 for a 4 bolt main 350 core that has never been rebuilt.

[@brandonsaddler99]

This block has never been rebuilt, but I'm not sure if it's 2 or 4 bolt main. What issues would I have using a 2 bolt main?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Brandon Saddler If it has not been rebuilt and it is standard then just rebuilt it .030 over. 2 or 4 bolt will work fine.

[@brandonsaddler99]

Great! I really appreciate you answering my questions. You're a really big help.

[@superiorflycompany8217]

im building a 350 using all chinese parts to prove a point I will post vids when done.

[@dominicdaley5702]

Can this be used for LS motors as well?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

The LS engines are a bit different. If you do a google search for "how to adjust LS rockers" there is a good link to ls1tech.com that shows a page from the factory manual on adjusting rockers.

[@robertsmeg1]

very helpful vids, but i cant hear the voice on this one. if someone could help me out with that id be very thankful. i kno where there is a old one sittin & i really need a rat rod!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. Give me a shout if you need any help or have any questions. Take a look at my website for more ideas.

[@88s10Durango]

Check Proper pushrod length ??? Check for Proper contact pattern on valve from roller tip ???

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Yes. They do make different length pushrods. Rocker ratios, head gasket thickness, head design/year (thickness,etc) all can change depending on the parts used. Also, depending on rocker, head, rocker guide, etc. the rockers can not line up well or be off to one side.

[@88s10Durango]

SanDiegoHotRod I am aware of these ,my block was shaved .025 " , my heads were shaved .015 " , I`m using Comp 1.52 to 1 roller tip rockers , and I`m using .020 " compressed head gaskets , I just thought you should have mentioned it in the video when talking about the alignment and contact pattern of the rollertip rockers ,might have been beneficial to others ...cheers

[@plainsabertooth7828]

does this work with hyrd roller cams? i thought your soppse to give the rockers a quarter turn preload?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

stockingandblossom1 The basic "rule of thumb" is after zero lash is set 1/2 turn past zero for high rpm response and 1 full turn past zero for more low end torque.

[@plainsabertooth7828]

what if i want the best of both worlds? :)

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

stockingandblossom1 Personally I usually adjust the rockers just past 1/2 turn (5/8 turn or to about 7 o'clock) over zero lash. LOL

[@plainsabertooth7828]

SanDiegoHotRod oh one more question, what about timing when it comes to reinstalling the distributor i learned from motor trend you need to set the engine 12 degree with cylinder at top dead center but it's for a 454 bbc what a sbc?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

stockingandblossom1 Timing is another thing everyone will argue about. You can set the timing to "factory specs" but that is just a baseline thing. It depends on whether you run a vacuum advance (I don't) and so on. I promise you that setting the timing (and carb mix) on a 4by truck in Colorado in winter is not the same as setting the timing on a Corvette here at the beach in San Diego in summer. If you have a car that needs to be smogged and live in a place where you have to pass a smog check you are mostly screwed. If not this is how I set the carb and timing. I don't use vacuum advance. Just straight mechanical. Disconnect and plug vacuum line to dist. Hook up a vacuum gauge to MANIFOLD vacuum (NOT ported vacuum). set the carb mix screws to get the best vacuum (at around 600 - 800 rpm). Set the dist. to get the best vacuum and then back down a couple degrees. You should be sitting around 700 rpm, 10 - 15 degrees advanced at idle (not over 36 degrees advanced at 3000 rpm) and 15 - 24 inches of vacuum at idle. Always run premium gas (which changes throughout the year) back off the timing if you hear any knocking under a load. Elevation, temp, humidity and gas all make a difference as well. Or just set the timing at 6 degrees btdc like the book says. Simple right?

[@forged_billions2]

Are flat tappets good for racing?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Flat tappets are fine for racing. I have built many "blower motors" aka engines with superchargers with big horsepower and never had a problem. The rule of thumb is that it is easy to build horsepower but expensive to release more horsepower. High compression makes power but better heads (bigger ports and runners) "release more horsepower." The engine components "restrict" hp so any time you can lessen friction or make the process of intake, compression, expansion and exhaust more efficient the better. I.E: take the friction away from the cam and lifter with roller lifters, roller rockers, etc.

[@bigsean2473]

SanDiegoHotRod if we could get that 90% heat leaving the tail pipe, or just like 50% of it and get the engine 60% efficient, you would have more power than you know what to do with. dam shame its only around 10-15% efficient .

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

LOL Thank you very much! I guess the info was worth uploading a crappy video. D'oh! :)

[@mikesomewhere7214]

lol.....damn scotch brite salesman....just kidding :)

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Mike Somewhere LOL Yeah. How could "scratch" brite NOT sponsor me? Ha!

[@kermitthefrog9315]

is this a shop??? those rockers are Chinese shit!!!! what kind of hot rod shop uses such junk parts?????

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Michael smith If you were paying attention you would know this is just my garage and the parts all came from a cheap douchebag customer. Try my facebook page for my latest creations facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms

[@kermitthefrog9315]

+SanDiegoHotRod THOSE ROCKERS ARE TRASH!!! JUNK!!!! WORTHLESS!!!! WILL FAIL AND CAUSE DAMAGE!!!!!

[@kermitthefrog9315]

+SanDiegoHotRod YOU SIR ARE A TWIT!!!

[@kermitthefrog9315]

+SanDiegoHotRod sir i would not let you rebuild my lawn mower engine!!!!!!