How To Build a Chevy 383 Stroker - Part 1: Block & Crank

[@ondraay1]

These videos are awesome. I have just bought my first car and I'm learning so much about engines just based off this video. Eventually I want to swap out my 350 for a 383 engine similar to this. Thanks for helping me get familiar with the parts of an engine!

[@tankipoo4u]

dude please use a brass hammer your scaring the fudge outta me

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I would not recommend using any used crank on a rebuild without having it checked at a machine shop and/or ground. This is a steel crank and it is like putting new brake pads on an old rotor. Won't hurt but will wear down the pads (or bearings) much faster. Not a good idea. A good machine shop will help you with grinding a crank and boring the cylinders for new pistons, etc.. Again, do all the machine work and pay to balance the engine!

[@g-bodygarage3608]

Your supposed to wipe all oil and grease off of the bearing caps when you plasticgauge, that way you get a more accurate reading.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I get most of my stuff from Summit Racing. They are easy to work with and they know more than most local parts guys. If you start with a never rebuilt 4 bolt main block and machine it .030 over great. Steel crank if possible. Good pistons. Aftermarket heads, aluminum or cast iron, with at least 200 cc intake runners. Full roller or roller tip rockers. Aluminum intake. 600 - 750 cfm carb or FI. Should be easy 400 hp. Balancing will help longevity. Adjust 4 budget. Be sure to run premium gas.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

We use crankshafts like this all the time for circle track guys and they win races! If you would NEVER,never do this that you wouldn't last long building anything for the circle track guys your comment's give you away you don't really have much experience dealing with racers if you did you would know not to post like this, also what if he is using these parts just to give the viewer an Idea how a stroker goes together maybe you should think b 4 U make a ass out of yourself

[@Getemrightworldwide]

Thank You So Much For this Sir. I am 17 and Learning how to build my own motor for the future, watching your videos help me with my List ! Thanks :)

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+CeeLive Thank you for watching! Check out my "Build Sheet" page on my website www.corvettesandcustoms.org You can download or print out the "wish list" to help you plan your build before you start. It helps to plan and budget - cast iron heads or aluminum heads, etc. Hit me up if you ever have any questions. You can also follow me on facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms

[@happytimes724]

Nice I like guys like you bro that point out what is right and wrong. It's nice to still have smart people left building internal combustion engines.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks man. I know this is a crappy engine but that is why I chose to use it as my first instructional video. When the client brought it to me he said he got it from a friend. he never said "Craigslist" If you want to see my latest and greatest cool car stuff (including a very cool 58 Vette restoration) follow me on my FB page facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms Thanks!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

The 383 idea is basically taking a 400 small block crank and putting it into a 350 block. If you use a longer stroke crank you need to plan ahead and match crank, pistons, cam/lift, heads, chamber size, rocker ratio and make sure the block has not been "decked." If you have pistons already I would stick with the 350 crank (preferably steel) especially if you have 10;1 or better pistons. The USED crank in this was a steel Scat 3.750. I never recommend used parts but I do recommend balancing!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks man. I sold my condo a few years ago just so I cold rent a house with a garage! I feel your pain! My dad put nitrous on his 98 V6 Riviera with the factory blower. Only used it twice but it looks cool!

[@EconomicDisconnect]

Ha! You do the back threading step before you go forward on the bolts too!! Nice touch, good way to do things. The sharpie marking is a great idea. Going to watch the rest of the series.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. I have learned (the hard way) to clean threads before you put something together, especially when you have a bare block or something out and easy to get to. I have been having a "debate" with a couple people about using a tap instead of a "chaser." Taps only "cut" the block if the threads are wrong to start with. Whatever.... LOL

[@TPVPRO]

I remember when I did my LT1 I used gear oil to assemble it. That motor ran strong for 5 years stock bottom till the oil pressure went down I'm thinking from 100 shot N2o and seeing 6700 rpm a lot. =) Great video Sir I wish I had a place to work on motors I'm in a condo now. =(

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

If you don't live in California there's a lot you can do. If the engine is in good shape you can get a Vortec supercharger (blower) kit to put on it. Blowers add roughly 40% hp to any engine. The kit will come with the proper programming for the computer so you don't melt down the pistons. Larger injectors, K&N air intake system, good headers, dual Flowmaster mufflers, replace the heads. Budget and "balance" of air/fuel/intake/exhaust are all important. Or rebuild it with these things in mind.

[@JHWest1971]

Thank you for your help, I will put the info to good use.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Anytime. Thank you.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks (I think) Not sure if that is a complement but I do things a bit different because I have seen what happens when you leave out the little details. It is tough for me to even show these "home" videos because they are just shot on an iPhone with one hand while building an engine with old crappy parts. LOL

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Sorry. My bad. I did not have it labeled as Part 3 but now you can find it on my channel as " How to build a 383 Part 3: Cam and timing chain." Thanks for spotting that for me. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any questions. Shan

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

The crank had already been machined once. If you machine the crank more you will weaken the crank (and cost another couple hundred dollars in machine work and bearing set). Even with a NEW crank and bearings, you still have to plastiguage each journal and use scotch brite to clearance the bearings. You are not taking much off the bearing and when the engine is running the oil does most of the work. Again, the best thing is not to be cheap and buy used parts so you don't have to worry about it.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you. Stay in touch. I have a new web series called "The Yard" I am putting together about finding, fixing and flipping cars in the "real" world.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I would have the machine shop bore the cylinders 30 or 40 over (not 60). Line bore it only if it needs the crank mains straightened out. Get new matching pistons. The machine shop can help yo with all that and tell you what you need. Just get matching parts so pistons, crank, valves, cam etc. don't hit each other.

[@spacesprocketsshopmatteexp4442]

Great video to share. I just added vortec heads to my small block. I will be stroking it this fall.

[@TheProfessor936]

Can you make a 99 350 Vortec into a Stroker?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Yes.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

No problem. Thank you for watching! If you have not checked out my website yet there are more photos and videos there. I have more stuff coming so stay tuned! corvettesandcustoms d o t O R G

[@butchongadgets]

Nice job from a old gear head engine builder.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks man. I know this engine is a piece of crap and mostly just a demo/tutorial thing. I have a new "series" of videos that continue this theme of putting together a small block. The new videos "cover" the external parts and the engine I just put together is BEAUTIFUL with aluminum heads and 400hp. I have a couple uploaded with a couple more on the way. Thanks again!

[@jerryhubbard4461]

personally in my opinion to the post before mine, a motor runs on electricity and engine runs on combustable fuel.

[@Isdatdios]

did you put crank in with that pitting ? or had you cleaned it up and how did you go about that?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I just did a light polish so it had no sharp or rough edges. The owner was too cheap to turn the crank properly. Is the customer always right???

[@jgt157]

Just curious how you got the pitting out of the crank before you installed it. I wouldn't think scotch brite would take care of that.

[@danielesilvaggi]

The wider the "sploodge" you say the tighter the clearance is, so if I were you I would go a little more to the middle of your gauge and you would have better oil flow. IMO.

[@TheProfessor936]

I was thinking the same thing. Why allow the clearance to be at the end of the spectrum?

[@marksoderberg302]

Nice. I always wanted to do an econo build. Scavenge all the parts for free, use the best of the old parts I have, and see how long the engine will last. Obviously not an engine for the track, but you know what I mean. Anyways, you just earned yourself another subscriber.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks man. I'm glad you get it. This is a shit motor (there's that word again LOL) so why not use it for my first engine tutorial. Lots of guys build crap like this for their weekend racers. Small tracks across the country have a rule that says if you win a race you HAVE to sell your engine to anyone that offers you $1000 (or whatever the specific limit is). It keeps guys honest and the price of going racing down. I just finished a BEAUTIFUL 350 four bolt with 350 hp and did some short vids on installing chrome timing covers, oil pan, etc. It is kind of an extension of these videos but with a LOT nicer engine and "bling" effect! Should be up soon. Thanks again.

[@MrJimmydeez]

You used that crank? Did you charge to build an engine with used parts? Did your connecting rod bolts hit your camshaft.

[@VetalK]

Can you use the crank like that without grinding? Looks damaged enough to me. I just opened up my motor and my crank looks much better, I am considering whether to give it to the machine shop

[@liledwards3000]

me being someone without experience to do my self how much and is it possible even to have a mechanic look over when im finish just to be my little project

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

A 4 bolt main is obviously better to start with. This was a clients engine he THOUGHT was a good deal but the seller HIGHLY misrepresented the parts and wear, etc. I myself NEVER buy engine parts from Craigslist or the paper. When you try to do things cheap it bites you every time. Use NEW parts that FIT TOGETHER. Get references on parts and labor. 4 bolts are more important for trucks, racing and turning over 6000 RPM. 2 bolts and a STEEL crank are fine for most street apps. Thanks.

[@DustyD3vil]

Hello, I'm working on a engine for an 80's model Camaro I recently obtained on trade and am planning on build a 383 to go into it. I was wondering if it was possible to use a 400 block and destroke it. If so how would one go about this process?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

You can but I would not do it that way. A 400 block has bigger cylinders which restrict water flow between the cylinders and they are known for running hot (over heating). Any "odd size" crank, rod or piston combination is harder to find parts for and more expensive. As far as budget, assembly time, horsepower and reliability a 350 (4 bolt) block (new or never bored), steel crank, GOOD aluminum heads (machined right), GOOD pistons and everything BALANCED will be money and time better spent. Just my opinion.

[@DustyD3vil]

SanDiegoHotRod Thanks for the reply and the info. I didn't know about the 400's running hot. Definitely going to be looking for a 350 block now.

[@MrNapalm138]

Im obviously no expert,so just a question.Wouldnt it be better to find a 4 bolt main block to do this or is the 2 bolt main plenty solid for this kind of build?

[@1Jwpeff]

nice floor for a shop. good video bro.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+1Jwpeff Thanks man!

[@interceptor0166]

i know its an old video but you did a great job. it looks like the original builder did not clearance the crank or block. that crank looks shitty. i had many stock chevy cranks with over 70 to 100k miles that looked like new.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks. When the client brought me the bucket of parts he never said the word "Craigslist" and did not want to spend the money to redo everything. That's why I used it as a training video. LOL You can see a NICE 350 on my "Engine dress Up" series. 400 hp simple street "motor"

[@nandoGdog]

You didn't have to clearance anything at the bottom of the cylinders?

[@qj877]

I know i ask a lot of questions but when the cylinders are bored .030 does that effect the size of the bearings or rods to use or do you just need .030 pistons? And do you need to use a roller cam & lifters in order to use roller rockers? Also, if the cylinders are in good shape is it necessary to send to a machine shop. I was told you can steam clean, run a tap through certain threads, and use a flexhone tool.

[@alittlebitofeverything5090]

Thank you for taking time out of your day to make this video. I did not have a good understanding of plastigage until this video. Do we also have to worry about the tolerance on the block side crank shaft bearings as well?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you and you are welcome. You do not necessarily need to worry about the block side bearings. It is not necessarily how round the bearings are but the "clamping force" I guess you would call it. Like brake pads grabbing a rotor or inside out brake shoes and drums. IF you need to clearance the bearings you are only talking less than .001 inches in most cases. For the most part (in a perfect world) the crank is actually spinning on a film of oil not the actual bearing material itself. Hope this helps. I wish I knew a better more accurate scientific way to explain it. LOL

[@alittlebitofeverything5090]

Thank you much! What is the proper way to remove material on the cap if your tolerance is too large? Or is this something that identifies a defect in the crank journal itself and requires professional machining? Thanks in advance..

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Troy M In THEORY or in a perfect world, if the crank is turned say .010 under and you get a GOOD set of bearings marked .010 then they should be within tolerance. Also if you have a NEW crank and GOOD new bearings they should be a good match. If it is only one journal that is bad then you may have a problem. Of course best scenario is a new steel crank with GOOD new bearings.

[@alittlebitofeverything5090]

Thanks again!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Ideally you want to have the crank new or checked by a machine shop shop for size, cracks and balance. If the tolerance is too large then use another bearing or you may need another new bearing/set. Mic the crank to be sure. You don't want to start machining the caps yourself.

[@WizzRacing]

I still would have checked the centerline of the crank to rod bearings. Just like you would the cam bearings. I also use an inside dial gage after the main bearings are torqued down. Then measure the crank journals for roundness. The difference in the size of the crank journal to the rod bearing is then checked again with plastic gage.

[@MrJimmydeez]

You used that crank? Did you charge to build an engine with used parts?

[@gdubm4]

need some advise! I have a 96 caprice 5.7L LT1. what can i do to get some more horses out of the engine with out having the check engine light on?. stock hp is 260.

[@jayrichmond2325]

Hey shanon, I don't think I explained my situation very well. Let me try again and see if this helps. 1. I have my dream car, 92 Camaro purple Z 28 factory four-speed. It has no engine but the transmission is there. It was a 5.0, so I know it will hold a SBC. I also need body parts for my daughters 01 silverado. So I was thinking I could get 2things done for 1price. So I'm looking to get a silverado with a vortec 5.3 and build that for my camaro, and use the body parts for her truck. And no I don't live in CA. So what I need to know is, Will a 5.3 vortec bolt up to my camaro'S manual trans? Is a "truck engine" A good candidate for building a stroked? Will the wiring be a pain in the butt? And is there other problems that might arise for this project? Sorry for Taking so much of your time. I really appreciate your input.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I have read that the block will bolt up to the trans but not 100% sure. The crank spacing, etc. is different so I know they sell adapter kits for the automatic but have not seen adapter kits for the 4 speed. Trying to get the right computer set up with the 5.3 and the 4 speed will be a nightmare to get it dialed in right. If you do not need to smog the car I think you are better off and money ahead to buy the truck sans engine and trans (cheaper) and buy a 4 bolt 350 core that has not been rebuilt. If you start with a 350 block and go .030 over and build it with a stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons, etc) from Scat or any other company and use the ProComp aluminum heads you can either go carb. or fuel injected (PC heads go both ways). $300 for a NEW Holley 600 (as big as you need) or $900 - $1200 for a fuel injection kit from Holley or other company. You will have gobs of torque and hp without the headache of wire harnesses and computer diagnostic time. Just my personal opinion. I would keep it simple since you have a 4 speed. Don't forget a good set of ceramic headers.

[@trucavalier]

Great info chimed!

[@redneckchevyapache5796]

your no suppose to use a tap to clean you threads your suppose to use a thread chaser. a tap will cut your threads

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Big debate on taps and chasers. IF you can find a true chaser that would work most of the time but finding one these days is hard and extra $$ when more people already own a tap and die set. A tap (used correctly) won't cut threads if the hole is already in good shape. If the hole is rusty and /or cross threaded/worn out then a tap is better to fix the threads. Most old blocks are in bad shape and a undersize/"non cutting" chaser will bind or won't work or thread in all the way. Just need to be careful and take your time no matter how you clean the threads/holes. Thanks.

[@qj877]

Was that a 3.750 stroke crank? I was wondering if that is all that is needed to make a 350 a 383 stroker or are there more mods needed? Im about to start a 350 build and I was thinking about a 3.750 stoke over a 3.480 stock stroke but I don't want to run into any extra issues.

[@JHWest1971]

I watched your stroker video and was curious if you could give me some pointers on my first engine build?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

If you go to my website corvettesandcustoms.org and click on the link that says "Build Sheet" you can print out a "wish list" of parts you may want to use. Just like building a house you want to set a budget, decide what purpose you want the engine for (drag racing, circle track, economy, street performance) and then build the engine "on paper' so you have some idea what to expect. Keep in mind what I tell my customers: There are things you NEED, things you could use, and things you DON'T need. Rule of thumb, most machine shops (and more and more other businesses in America) suck so you just have to find one you can work with and will explain things to you so you know exactly what is going on. Summit Racing is a great source for parts and info. I also use Virtual Engine 2000 to get an idea on horsepower and RPM range before I build an engine. Thanks. Hope this helps.

[@philipmetzner7243]

It wouldnt have cost much to polish that crank. Also, you should not have that grease in there when plasiguaging. It will read tighter than it is. I got a 415 small block in about the same condition and its been running strong for 15 years now.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

That's what happens when you have a customer who is really cheap. He just wanted me to put the parts together. I don't work with cheap customers anymore.

[@thatsbuzzin]

Hi where do you get your parts from? Awesome vid

[@andrewjessen5534]

Hit it with some scotch bright.

[@JHWest1971]

My question is this......I have a 4 bolt main 350 that is stock. If I build a budget 383 what parts rods etc can I re use? I know the crank and pistons will have to be replaced, what about the stock heads? Will I need bigger valves? Like I said this is a budget build, I need to save and reuse parts where possible.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

The main reason to do a 383 is to get a longer stroke crank and make more low end torque (for towing or whatever). If you just want to build horsepower then I would suggest staying with the 350 BUT (as Pee Wee Herman used to say "Everyone has a big BUT!") here are a couple things to keep in mind. For a 383 you can use the stock heads and rods (depending on the pistons you go with) but you will have to get a NEW crank and do more work clearancing the block and making sure you get all the right parts that work together. For the price of machining the heads, installing bigger valves and stronger springs, etc, clearancing the block and buying a new crank you can buy a new set of after market high flow aluminum heads that make MORE power and are ready to bolt on. Head flow is where you get the most power from any engine. The cam just tells you where the power will be, low rpm or high rpm. The 350 I built for the 65 Chevelle is just over 400 hp with a 600 crm carb! kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4m3qpWgn8mDd6s&spfreload=10 Summit has some good heads available, even cast iron, that will make more power than stock. Check with your machine shop and see what they have available. $1000 for a set of good aluminum heads are well worth the price in the long run even if you have to wait a while longer to get them. They are also lighter in weight and run much cooler. I have some good pix on my FB page. facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms

[@JohnnyOk350]

you did plastigauge on 1/2 the main bearings, would you have to repeat the process for the other side (ie remove the crank and put plastigauge there?)

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Jeffrey Lomele No. The clearance is actually an overall clearance between the crank journal and the bearing surface. When the engine is turned right side up and the crank "falls" .001 of an inch then the clearance will be at the top. When oil is flowing around the crank it "floats" on a very thin layer of oil all the way around the crank bearing journal surface. Hope this makes sense.

[@JohnnyOk350]

+SanDiegoHotRod makes perfect sense, thanks!

[@Pinche_Gringo]

I've used your videos on building a 383 as a reference for my assembly but I have a question I accidentally put one of the rods on backwards and I need to take it off and flip it around how do you get those annoying little c-clips out without damaging the piston or the rod. Any help would be very much appreciated thanks.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Short answer: Carefully! Long answer: I am "ASSUMING" you have the spiral pain in the ass clips not the easy C clips with the eyelets you can grab with snap ring pliers. If it is not a needle nose or snap ring plier solution then spiral or C clips SHOULD have a small lip on them to get them out with a metal dental pick or similar Snap On/Matco/Harbor Freight tool. Usually I use one straight dental pick and one hooked pick from Snap On or any tool place. I use the same tools to take the snap ring off of a steering column when I am pulling the steering wheel locking plate. Hope this helps. Finishing up my "dress up" engine series in a couple weeks. The red engine I used in the videos is in a 1965 Chevelle and I am using the car in a new music video coming out in Feb! Stay tuned! Thanks again. Shan

[@Pinche_Gringo]

I'm retarded my pistons have a notch or you can stick a screwdriver in it and just pop it out

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

richard lundy Like I said. Sometimes you get in a hurry and just miss the obvious! Glad you figured it out!

[@jayrichmond2325]

I'd like to bounce a couple questions off of you. I'd like to put a Vortech 5.3 in the 92 Camaro. First do you see any problem with that secondly what I use the CAMARO wire harness or the donor truckharness? And is there any problem using the truck motor. And one more question, would 5.3 that had an automatic both up to my factory four-speed in the Camaro? Thanks a lot

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Is there anything in the Camaro now? If you had to use the truck engine then you want to use the truck wire harness. The truck trans probably won't fit in the Camaro. Do you just want the little bit of extra stroke and torque? The MAJORITY of your hp comes from the heads. Seems like you are creating more work then you need to. There are many donor cars at the wrecking yard you can get fairly cheap and rebuild and replace the heads on if you want to max out your hp. If money is not tight then a well built LT1 that bolts right in with a Vortec Supercharger is the easiest and most driver friendly high hp way to go. Take a look at the "Build Sheet" page on my website and print it out. It will help you decide and budget your build options. Don't even get me started on doing an engine swap if you are in California where you have to smog it! LOL www.corvettesandcustoms.org

[@ArbitrageArbitrary]

Hi, I'm in SD and looking for a honest/fair shop. How much experience do you guys have with LS3 Vettes?

[@tompickrell9125]

this video is great for showing people how not to build an engine, its just all the little things. Engine building is an art, what you are doing is slapping it together sure it may work but its not going to reach its potential even with used parts you can do a better job than this. defiantly would not tap clean the threads, it DOES cut the threads. using the same rag for the brake cleaner and for the oil, the rod caps are marked from factory, you should never use a rattle gun on any part of an engine. what makes it worse you are building this for a customer? take the crank and get it machined for fuck sakes, NO one would ever use that crank in that condition. also any one who uses a plasti-gauge is a moron. How do you sleep at night knowing you charged some one for the work you have done to this engine.... if your customer doesnt have much money its not an excuse to do every thing the "Lazy" way and slap it together like a burger from mcdonalds...

[@rodpalm6398]

Why are we checking the clearances of a used crank? Demonstration purposes?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Rod Palm Pretty much. This was such a junk motor I decided it would be a good one to use as a learning tool while building, filming and narrating by myself. Nothing wrong with using a used crank, especially a steel crank but this one is hammered! I tried to talk him into turning it but he was a cheap customer I don't have any more. As others have commented lots of people use used parts for "claimer" races where the winner HAS to sell you his engine for $500 or whatever if you make the offer. This keeps prices down and races fair on small tracks.

[@GoatBoy_45-70]

+SanDiegoHotRod You have to run the motor you claim AND it has to be for a minimum of 3 races too. Or refuse to sell and take the 3 race suspension, track owners dont like to see car counts down cause a suspensions ether.

[@jrstow86]

you're scaring me with that impact dropping sockets.

[@fathergratwick]

I would think it would have been a lot smarter and beneficial to remove the extra material from the already rough crank to smooth it out rather than intentionally wear down the bearing coating?

[@jayrichmond2325]

Great job! Very well explained for us newbies

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thanks. My first video tutorial so not 100% perfect but I think it covers the basics! The second series on the Engine dress Up helps a lot with sealing external parts, etc.

[@93ariebombarie]

what are the part costs on an engine like this? I like to build one for my 2400 lbs bmw

[@JHWest1971]

Well how about a 350 then, how can I build a 350 and get decent horse power for a street engine? I have the stock components......so what components can I re use and what will I need to purchase?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

If you live somewhere without smog laws or have a smog exempt car you can use the stock parts (block, crank, rods and heads). To get more power the key is air/fuel mixture and flow. Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold is affordable, looks nice and works great. A Holley 600 cfm is usually plenty of carb for a street car. It is also very affordable. A good "RV" style mid range camshaft is good. You don't want anything too big. It kills vacuum and does little for actual power. The most (affordable) power is having the stock heads machined and rebuilt with new 2.02 intake valves, seats, guides, springs, and most importantly having the intake runners ported out to flow better. That is your biggest HP gain. You need to talk to your machine shop to get prices on machine work and porting and what they can get you new cast iron or aluminum heads for price wise. And lastly, I prefer Flow Master mufflers for better exhaust flow.

[@JackpostsNHandpay]

hey great videos one question do the 383 stroker have cam bearing?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+Raymond Talley Yes. You can get a cam bearing installation tool but I recommend having the machine shop install the cam bearings.

[@dfuller968]

I have never seen anyone clearance half a bearing. Why would you stroke a 2 bolt main?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

The amount of material you take off with "scratch brite" is so small that if you needed to clearance upper and lower bearings you probably have the wrong size bearing or crank. The stroker crank came in the box of crap the customer brought me. Some people are just too cheap to do things right and I don't work with people like that anymore.

[@dustbowlpreparedness6220]

The difference is not whether it is electric that determines whether it's a motor or an engine. the technical difference is that an ENGINE runs under it's own power, and a MOTOR requires a source of outside energy to run. An ENGINE can run a MOTOR (example: GENERATORS), but a MOTOR cannot run an ENGINE without some sort of external power source to run the MOTOR in the first place. Simple, right? 😉

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I can see both sides of the argument. The human body is like a train engine - diesel/electric. Diesel engine running and electric motor. The human body takes in external fuel which is burned and turned into energy at the same time electrical impulses control our "motor functions." LOL Also an engine needs fuel and motors need external power from electricity or other means like a hydro electric motor. Unless you have a perpetual motion machine..... motor.....engine? The world may never know! Ha.

[@liledwards3000]

how much does someone usually charge to build one?

[@Recklessdigging]

*1986 C-10 with 383 Stroker Burnout!!*- kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5azfoGcdtF3mZY

[@BlakeAEMckain]

how about a 1990 chevy k1500 with soon to be a 1987-1994 SBC camaro 350 with factory performance heads.. lol

[@joeymone3958]

What about GENERAL MOTORS and the FORD MOTOR COMPANY and Mopar which stands for MOTOR PARTS

[@manny6584]

will the main caps go on backwards if you make a mistake

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Yes. The best thing to do is mark the caps before you take them apart. if there are no arrows pointing forward or numbers you can use number punches or single center punch. Front cap one dot. Second cap two dots, etc. Mark the block as well with a dimple so you know which direction the caps go back on also.

[@manny6584]

ok thanks

[@bobbyjohnnascar]

Plasti-gauge? Ever use a dial bore gauge?

[@allenpoe7372]

I have an issue with how much oil you put in your main cap bolt. That much oil would not allow the bolt threads too properly seat. Even machine oil has the property of all fluids and DOES NOT COMPRESS! So you aren't getting the almost metal to metal torque that is called for. Put a drop of oil on your finger or a cloth and just lightly rub and remove the excess. Also imho I wouldn't waste time making a "stroker" out of a 350 with 2 bolt mains! But that may just be me.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Actually you do not want metal on metal on bolt threads. That is the whole reason for using oil. Second the oil does not compress. It is not an air tight seal. The oil disperses. Most of the oil also comes off when you are threading it into the hole. If you were pouring the oil into the hole that might be different. And I agree. I would not build a 383 with a 2 bolt block but that was just one asshole customer with no clue that's why I chose this build to shoot the video with.

[@allenpoe7372]

I fixed my original comment, I had meant to say almost metal to metal. I was not saying oiling was wrong but the amount if you review the video is imho excessive. Also if it is a "blind" hole where would the oil disperse to? Some out the top as you screw in to be sure, but not all that. In most cases when using lube during engine assembly where you don't have moving parts, as in the case of a bolt going into a blind hole less is MORE.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I understand. If you have too much oil or fluid in a blind hole you don't want the bolt to hydraulic out. That's why you don't fill the hole. It's like cooking with "a hunk of butter" or "exactly 1 tablespoon of butter." You are correct. You just want to lube the bolt and threads. It's not like priming the oil pump.

[@greencityman420]

Don't impact main bolts

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

You can use an impact on main bolts just don't have it turned up all the way and don't hammer the shit out of them. Why don't you guys understand that you can turn DOWN an air gun gun like you can turn down a stove! If I still have to turn the bolt with a torque wrench just to get to 65 ft. lbs. do you really think there is a problem?

[@VeritasEIREAequitas]

Coyote don't be a douch. He already said he bought it under the guise of 10 hours

[@byronjohnson4819]

I have a Chevy 350 out of a 98 Z71 how much do I need to bore the block over

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

You need to have a machine shop look at it. If it is not bad then you can go .030 over. If it is really bad it could be .040 or .060 over. Just have the machine shop check it and make sure the block and crank look better than the one in this video! LOL

[@tuffguy407]

you make great videos sir!!! cheers!!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

+fred smith Thank you very much! Have you watched my James Dean video? I have a documentary coming out soon on the "James Dean's Last Drive" event I put together. I also have a music video coming out soon that features a 1965 Chevelle (the car with the red engine in it). Thanks for watching and stay tuned!

[@MrLostonej]

A Engine creates its own power. A motor takes power to create more power .that's the true difference, class is over..lol

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Hey Guys The whole "motor" and "engine" debate has gotten out of hand. Obviously SOME people don't get the joke and need to get out more often (or be locked up). I am not uptight and don't care if you say "engine" or "motor." I added some links to the description to help explain the difference. If you feel comfortable walking into Pep Boys and asking for a "starter motor" "wiper motor" "window motor" AND "CAR motor" then who am I to judge? We need to move on to more important discussions, like which is "more correcter" - "blower" or "supercharger......" S.

[@danhall716]

Motors are units that convert electromagnetism into continuous rotation. Engines use the combustion process as their kinetic energy source. The correct term is "supercharger". The term "blower" is slang.

[@markthornton650]

SanDiegoHotRod Find check , engine light, list , codes.

[@allenpoe7372]

Motors are ELECTRICAL and engines are COMBUSTIBLE!

[@williamhann1114]

i have a good sense of humor i like the scotch brite part . B Ann go away...

[@420ndfootball]

I have a good bit out questions for you would I be able to email you?

[@jessesandoval8449]

do stock rods and pistons still work

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Not trying to sound like an ass but yes and no. "Stock" can refer to many different piston and rod designs. "Stock" pistons and rods in a 400 that you might use in a 350 block are different than the 350 "stock" rods and pistons. There are almost unlimited rod and piston designs to build an engine these days. Overall "compression" and "displacement" comes from a combination of pistons, rods, camshaft, bore, crank and so on. There are many complete "stroker" kits available from places like Summit and Jegs. I would start with talking to your local machine shop to see what is available and what works best in your situation. Is it a street car? A weekend racer? An off road truck? Do you want 9:1 compression to drive around town or 12:1 to go race? Pistons can be domed or dished and the wrist pin is located in varying points on each piston design. Check out the "Build Sheet" page on my website. it will help you plan and budget your build. You can also read more of the "techo" stuff on this page I found www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/ Thank you!

[@waswestkan]

LOL the engine Vs. motor is a debate ,that prone to bench racing motorheads have, when they want to sound unintellectual & have time to kill. *:)* Having said that since the dawn of motor vehicles as we know them motor has been synonymous with engine.

[@NickySull]

how much did the whole build cost?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

This was a long time ago. He brought me a basket of parts and I just charged him a few hundred $ to put it all together. I had to clearance the block and check things out. He would not listen when I told him all the things wrong with it like the shit crank, etc. I won't do that again. If you want to see a GOOD 400 hp 350 build take a look at the follow up series on "Engine Dress Up" with the red engine and new aluminum heads. A GOOD engine like that custom built from the computer design and dyno program to a complete engine is $5000 - $6000 (2015 prices). That includes everything from oil pan to air cleaner. This engine was crap that's why I used it as a training film. LOL

[@retcwby]

I can't find part 3...

[@brianferrell5346]

Sorry guy, but I build racing engines. I would never use plastigauge. Takes three sets of main bearings to acheive the clearance i want on bearings, plus a micrometer, plus time. When I get thru, I take the other two sets of bearings back. Never had a bottom end engine failure yet. fyi

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Been building race engines for over 20 years and have never had an engine failure either. Do you charge by the hour? I would love to have customers that don't mind paying $150 an hr. for an extra 20 hours of changing bearings, buying multiple sets of bearings and running back and forth to the store. What's the name of your shop? I think I will move to where you live.

[@brianferrell5346]

SanDiegoHotRod Sorry if I offended you guy. It doesn't take 20 hrs to crush and document 15 bearings. I build my own engines ( no customers) and i don't use pitted crankshafts. Mine are indexed, polished, knife edged, balanced, oil relieved, and turn 10 grand. (287 with a 3 inch stroke) That's why I'm particular about my bearings. Just sayin'. Keep on doin' what you're doin' if you're makin' money at it.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Brian Ferrell No worries. The engine in this video is garbage that I put together a few years ago for some really cheap customer. That is why I used it for a demo for home building weekenders. If you watch any of the engine building shows on TV you must go crazier than me seeing how they do things and all the steps they leave out, etc. I don't do anymore cheap work since I am buried in restorations now (65 Chevelle, 58 Impala, 58 Corvette with factory fuel injection and 67 Corvette with factory 427 and tri-power). You can see some much better engine work on my website. Thanks Shan www dot corvettesandcustoms dot ORG

[@brianferrell5346]

Cool!

[@alittlebitofeverything5090]

Brian Ferrell Can you make a video of how to properly check for the clearances? I noticed you don't have any uploaded videos. Thanks

[@luislascurain8668]

Great video !!!!!

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Thank you! Watch the "Dress up" video series on installing external parts with the much nicer 400hp 350 red engine.

[@Stefonivich]

Motors have phases, Engines have cycles.

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Nice. I have not heard that one before but makes sense.

[@motobox1232]

if we want to be technical about it, anything that causes MOTion is a MOTor

[@darkmingus]

You definitely do some things different.

[@billybytnar7836]

if motors are electric why is it called general motors you should digress LOL)

[@cracklight1]

HEY wheres part 2.........

[@wsummertime]

you my friend need to buy a bench...

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

LOL Yes I have one in my new shop. This was shot a couple years ago. Thanks!

[@GhostyMist]

Okay Billy Mays

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

Obviously you have not built many engines professionally. I have been doing it for over 20 years on MANY EXPENSIVE show cars and race cars. Have you EVER been in the pits at an NHRA event and watched them rebuild a 7000 hp engine in 90 minutes? BTW, impacts DON'T effect bearings whatsoever, plus there IS an adjustment on air tools just like the burner on a stove. Just FYI

[@RayIzzle100]

if you can't find out what main caps go where you cannot mix match them you would have to get it line bored to match them again or you'll have to fit them and make sure there is absolutely no gap or mark between the block and cap where the fit together. . same goes for the rods. BTW you don't need to tap the bearing or journals you can push them flat with ur fingers... that crank looks like shit... that crank should look like a mirror I would have just spend the money and had it polished.. that's just adding insult to injury.. you can't shave a main bearing there's a coating on it your rubing off!! ever heard of breakaway force??

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

You may have spent the money but when the customer just wants you to put the thing together and not spend a dime then that's a different story. How many engines have you built for clients? I looked on your channel and did not see any videos you made to show people how to do anything. BTW if you can push the caps flat with your fingers they are too loose. Just sayin.

[@tractorfixrable]

I like your comment motors are electric. They are hydraulic too !

[@MrNapalm138]

Thanks,yeah it seemed obvious but you were building the 2 bolt so just had to ask.I agree don't buy anything important off craigslist hahahaha That goes for finding women too ;-)

[@havebenthere]

Scotchbrite? Plastigage? Ballpeen hammer? The video ended for me after that! BLAH!!!!

[@fulthrottle919]

I have built engines for 50 years .I would never,NEVER put a crank that was like that in a engine I built turn it 10-10 and micro polish the dam thing. It would not last a year under grand ma's driving..Waste of time and money.It will be back.What a jackleg mechanic.I guess you get what you pay for

[@thepoopsoup]

Just love how you checked the bearing clearance WITH LUBE ON THE BOTTOM BEARINGS???) sure they were tight the lube 105 is thick?? DA!!!! use a dial-bore gauge and a mic

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

I think you missed the point of the video. How many backyard mechanics have a dial bore gauge and how many specialty tools are shadetrees going to buy to build ONE engine? Do you always put cranks on bearings and torque them with no lube on the bearings?

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

and it's spelled "DUH!" ;)

[@acexbabayaga5720]

my serial number on my crankshaft is 14088526

[@stephenmecheski8519]

how mutch hp

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

This engine is not great with mostly stock parts. it is about 350 true hp. If you look at the red engine on my "Engine Dress Up" series it has better parts, better aluminum heads and is just over 400hp on premium gas. The long stroke give you low end torque. Most of your hp comes from the heads.

[@openopen1203]

I missed the part where you weighed / balanced the engine components

[@SanDiegoHotRod]

tyhu thujh All the balancing is done at the machine shop. Ideally you should have all the components ready to go when you assemble the engine. That includes a new or turned crank, not a POS like this one. The owner did not want to spend the money to do it right and just wanted his rat rod put together. Needless to say I did not warranty this engine.....