How to build a CNC Plasma Cutter Table | Electronics | Free Plans & CAD Files

Link to CAD Models and Plans: bit.ly/ToshDavisCNCFiles
My website to buy some of the custom metal parts: toshdavis.com/products/cnc-pl...
I've started to sell some of the parts to make the build easier for you.
Part 4 of a series on how to build a CNC plasma cutter table. All the parts are complete. Check out my playlist for the build below. In this video, I am wiring the electronics of the CNC table. Some back story this is my 3rd build of a CNC plasma table. The first build you see in this video, while the second one I made was for a friend, featured in the THC video on my channel. This design is based on the design I designed for my friend. Hope this video helps.
I've updated the wiring diagram. This updated version should be a lot more clear than the one in this video. The updated version is located in the google drive folder under the name "Wiring Diagram Updated."
How to build a CNC plasma table: • How to build a CNC Pla...
0:00:00 Intro
0:00:14 Description of electronic parts
0:03:53 Wiring diagram
0:06:42 Build montage
0:09:12 Floating head assembly
0:10:05 Build montage part 2
0:17:02 How everything is wired to the electrical box
0:17:49 Plasma torch triggering
0:19:21 Wiring in the electrical box
0:28:30 Plasma torch triggering circuit
0:32:53 Location of limit switches
0:33:45 Mach3 setup
0:46:30 Setting steps per unit
0:50:38 Homing
0:51:55 Soft limits
0:53:07 Machine coordinates vs part coordinates
0:55:02 Small tricks with using Mach3
0:56:22 Outro
0:57:07 Some recent cuts
0:59:53 Uncut video of cutting a part
Parts List:
HG20 20mm Linear Rail Guide Actuator CNC 1500mm*: www.ebay.com/itm/292600713239
HG20 20mm Linear Rail Guide Actuator CNC 750mm*: www.ebay.com/itm/292600713239
3PCS Nema 23 Stepper Motor: amzn.to/3naoHLC
Nema 23 Stepper Motor: amzn.to/3r5Kc14
SainSmart CNC Micro Stepping Motor Driver**: amzn.to/3FfKdEJ amzn.to/31H6jCD
DC 24V 15A Power Supply: amzn.to/3FbyfvO
R55 Plastic Open Type Cable Wire: amzn.to/3GrjGWN
MR12 12mm Linear Rail Guide 100mm: amzn.to/3HN50Bf
8mm to 10mm Shaft Coupling: amzn.to/3r5Cbth
400mm 8mm Lead Screw ACME: amzn.to/3n9N10c
4 Pack Caster Wheels 4 inch: amzn.to/3q9Ja5d
5 axis CNC Breakout Board: amzn.to/3JTyLCu
12 Pack of Micro Limit Switches: amzn.to/3GfcXiy
Metal Gear Rack -20 Pitch 6ft (5174T21): www.mcmaster.com/catalog/5174T21
Metal Gear 20 Pitch 15 Teeth (5172T11): www.mcmaster.com/catalog/5172T11
Compression Spring 2" Long 0.875" OD, 0.635" ID (9657K03) Pack of 6: www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9657...
Zinc-Aluminum M5 x 0.8mm 20mm Thread Pack of 50 (91274A131): www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9127...
Zinc-Aluminum M5 x 0.8mm 12mm Thread Pack of 50 (91274A127): www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9127...
Zinc-Aluminum M5 x 0.8mm 16mm Thread Pack of 50 (91274A129):
www.mcmaster.com/catalog/9127...
Notes:
* These are the linear rails I bought, though because I don't have space in my shop I have to keep my machine outside and these rails have rusted, just keep this in mind
** I know the linked Stepper Motor Driver is unavailable. I just wanted to link the exact one I used. The second link is a driver that looks similar, I just have not used it so can't guarantee anything

[@ToshDavis]

Check out my website: toshdavis.com/products/cnc-plasma-build-plans I've started to sell some of the parts to make the build easier for you. I've updated the wiring diagram. This updated version should be a lot more clear than the one in this video. The updated version is located in the google drive folder under the name "Wiring Diagram Updated." Also, for those of you that are building it, let me know where you are confused and I will make a video to help.

[@LivingTech]

You are the real deal. I find it hard enough to get my videos out, without all these extra steps you've taken to provide files, etc. And I spend a lot of time producing them. So, thank you, once again. 😎👍

[@ToshDavis]

@@LivingTech You’re welcome. Glad you’ve found it useful.

[@CabriniFranco]

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OBdoZxHEbX82CcWNYMCQoj9N4FrhFKC6?usp=sharing --> Here is the model on sketchup files, maybe someone needs it. Regards

[@CapablePimento]

Excellent detailed instruction, beefy reliable looking table, clever floating head design, and all uploaded to help out fellow shop dwellers. You, sir, are the real deal! I am 100% going to build one per your design this summer. Thanks for all of this. And yes,I would, as a matter of fact, be interested in buying a plate kit. Are you making/selling them?

[@ToshDavis]

@@CapablePimento glad you liked the video. Ya send me an email at [e-mail] for the plate kit information

[@3dmakerzone75]

I came back today to rewatch the whole series. I am so impressed with how well this machine preforms. You did a great job designing and building it. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to put this series together.

[@ToshDavis]

You're welcome! Glad you like them!

[@benjaminvehabovic3956]

Ive followed this series and been waiting for this one! Great job with this video, planning on building one of these in the future and will def use this for reference

[@ToshDavis]

Awesome! You'll have to let me know how your build goes

[@stephenormsby3662]

This whole series was fantastic! This has been extremely helpful to me especially the video about the electronics. Very impressive work. Thanks so much for posting.

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@adammulcahy644]

Just came back to watch this a 3rd time to gather some inspiration before I start into mine. This is one of the most in depth “how to’s” there is 👍👌

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad it has been helpful!

[@Equine_frederikke]

These videos are great! It really made it easy to understand both the mechanical and electrical parts.

[@ToshDavis]

Glad to hear it!

[@3dmakerzone75]

Great video series! I started building a CNC plasma table back in 2017 and it is still sitting unfinished. Hopefully your build will inspire me to finish it.

[@ToshDavis]

Cool! You'll have to keep me updated when you finish yours. Hopefully the vidoes are able to help

[@doroscnc]

the best video in youtube build cnc plasma

[@calvinhall1405]

Hi Tosh , i can only add big thanks for a very clear and helpful walkthrough on this nice project . have to say you nailed it in terms of content and knowledge , im more or less following this path and having come across your Channel i can honestly say you cleared up a lot of grey areas for me . Cheers this is excellent work / presentation thanks for sharing

[@ToshDavis]

Awesome! I'm glad to hear it

[@surginerc]

I have built a couple of CNCs but was never able to capture my work. Maybe camera shy, anyway i have not tried a Plasma, I want to thank you for the effort it took you to document. You did a good job and it was helpful to me.

[@surginerc]

Disregard I found it!

[@ToshDavis]

Oh awesome! Sorry for a very late response. Glad you got it!

[@scraptech3152]

Really good job!! You saved allota money building your own. 👍

[@bobrossi1185]

Wow that's awesome complete build videos and planning thanks for your time you're videos is is one of the best in depth i think.

[@ToshDavis]

Glad you liked the series!

[@ouroboros5378]

I was waiting for this video for long time. Thanks a lot Greetings from Chile!

[@ToshDavis]

Glad you liked it!

[@kojomensah7474]

Each one teach one thanks very much for showing and sharing thanks for the step by step when we share information the humans becomes better

[@ToshDavis]

You’re welcome

[@joshuacaylor881]

Brilliant. You are doing great. Much love ❤

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it

[@adee-H1066]

Excellent video series,best one I've found on here.looking forward to building one.....when I've finished some long term car projects.👍👍😎😎

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you glad you enjoyed it! Good luck on your build!

[@jlssculpturedesign8140]

Thank you for your video ,it us very well explained.

[@ToshDavis]

You are welcome!

[@DogSerious]

Leaving it to the elements like that will make sure it's broken before too long!

[@ToshDavis]

Ya I wish I had a bigger shop!

[@Jim-MT]

BRILLIANT YOUNG MAN!

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you like the videos!

[@gladeamatoren7106]

Tosh, you are absolutely amazing! Each episode of your serie will get atleast 100 views more from me, when I start my build. Could you please (when you have catch your breath after all hard work you have done) show when you make a part? Right from scratch to the finish, how to create all the measures and the look of the workpiece in the program. Though I must say, I wish you had more space in your workshop😪 Great video my friend, see you soon again👍🏻👏🏻😉 Micke/Sweden🇸🇪

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you!! Glad you liked the videos. Yeah, that would be a good video to make! I'll plan on doing that. I know I wish it was bigger too, I might have to just extend it at some point, I need to figure something out

[@RobGoffard]

Nicely Done!

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@pavanpatidar6816]

CNC Plasma Cutter Table Video Series made by you all I saw this part 4 of electronic I wanted to see for a long time I got it today thank you. I hope that in future I make this type of cutting table, then you will help me thank you again

[@ToshDavis]

Great to hear!

[@terrencewilson3713]

KEEP POSTING MAN!! UR GOOD

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! I want to, I've been just pretty busy.

[@dennisguajardo1940]

Yes please show us how to make a design and transfer to machine. Great work

[@ToshDavis]

I made this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqSnXoVpqLR1Z5I Let me know if this is what you wanted, or if there was something else you had questions about

[@Hoeydelabeach]

Great work!!!!! I’ve REALLY enjoyed the progress of your cnc build. I appreciate the time you took to explain the different parts of the electronics and how the software works. Thanks! Did I understand you correctly that you did not use a THC on this build? /Hoey, Sweden

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you liked the video. Yeah on this build I don't have a THC. I've looked at maybe making one with an Arduino. I just haven't gotten around to it. Another reason I don't is that most of the material I cut is over 1/8'' (3 mm) and when it probes before every cut a THC wouldn't do much as the material doesn't warp very much

[@GeeEmJay]

Depending on how much voltage/current is being passed through that relay at 31:17 you may need a flyback diode. If it's just DC low volt/amp to trigger the plasma, might not need it but it's good practice to put one in place and / or use an optocoupler so the circuit is isolated from the high volt/current side of the relay trigger

[@ToshDavis]

That's really good to know. I didn't know that, thank you. I do know it's pretty low voltage, probably not more than 5v, I don't remember exactly though.

[@richmansvideo]

best video ever !

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you liked it.

[@rlcustoms]

Awesome video man

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you liked it

[@rlcustoms]

I’m building this off your plans right now and one question I have is what purpose do the tabs that you weld onto the plates where the servo motor sits serve? And what does the spring do? When I put the bolt and spring through there it just stays rigid it doesn’t seem like that serves any purpose thanks.

[@ToshDavis]

If they are the tabs I'm thinking of then it's for the tensioner system. The bolt just runs through them with the spring. I have that whole pivoting, tensioner system because I was thinking I would not be able to make the linear rail absolutely parallel with the gear rack and so any deflection, would either load the stepper motor shaft or unload the stepper motor shaft and so this whole system is designed to help keep the same amount of tension on the stepper motor shaft throughout the linear rail travel

[@rlcustoms]

@@ToshDavis ok awesome. I was just checking to make sure it was needed and I’m building it right lol

[@eby1253]

Perfect

[@ToshDavis]

Glad you liked it

[@paulvalenzuela6200]

Awesome video. About to start buying parts. When I looked at your price list and the link on ebay for the linear rail, it was like $39.99 each, and yours is listed at $215. Just want to make sure I am looking at the right part as I am new to this. I know prices change, but that is a lot different. Thanks again!

[@ToshDavis]

You might be looking at different lengths. I would make sure you have the correct length selected. Not sure otherwise though

[@paulvalenzuela6200]

Sounds great. Thanks again!@@ToshDavis

[@paulvalenzuela6200]

Yes I was looking at the default part, it is more like $144. Thanks@@ToshDavis

[@technopointgroupe544]

Good afternoon Mister Tosh, I'm from Senegal west Africa, I hope in two or three month I'll finished to buy all parts and trying to built this machine . thanks you

[@ToshDavis]

Awesome I'm glad to hear it! Best of luck with your build. Let me know if there is any videos you want me to make to clarify somethings?

[@awotdereje508]

Help! This is the best vedio I have ever seen so far. and I have build my own plasma cnc but the problem is when I trigger the plasma and start cutting I am getting EMI interference. Please help

[@ToshDavis]

I'm sorry I'm not entirely sure how to fix this. Have you tried making sure you've grounded everything. I'm sorry to say but your best option might be to buy a new plasma cutting machine. I know there's different starting mechanisms and one of the ways creates a lot electrical interference while the other does not. So your best bet is probably to get a machine you know will not create the interference.

[@jasonbourne6541]

Excellent series! Any plans on a rotary axis build? also the breakout board is unavailable, do you have a recommended replacement?

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the series. I have thought about it. Honestly I think it would be fairly easy to implement on the hardware side. Not sure how Fusion360 handles it on the software side though. And oh okay good to know on the Breakout board. If you just search "5 axis CNC Breakout Board" into Amazon there are a lot of options and you should be able to find the same exact board. I would just match up the picture.

[@John-te4nu]

APlastic spoon works for smoothing thecorners better than a finger

[@ToshDavis]

Hahaha very true! Good to know. Didn’t think of that. Thanks!

[@hellasbbqgrillsmoker1925]

Very good job, congrats dude. Which pin did you use at brake out board for floating head switch?

[@ToshDavis]

Hi sorry for the late response. Thank you! I used pin 11 for the floating head switch. See 37:43

[@georgefredette2518]

Exelent information thank you. I see the motors are 36v and the power sorce is 24v, Is this corecct or am I missing something

[@ToshDavis]

I'm actually not sure. The motors might be rated up to 36v. But yes the system is ran on 24v.

[@rlcustoms]

Hi can you tell me where you got your pinion gear and rack from? I ordered one but it was way too skinny and tall for your blueprints

[@ToshDavis]

I ordered them from McMaster Carr. I have the links in the description

[@RoyMeraki]

awesome build! how did you managed torch height control feature? Sorry I am a newbie and might sound like a dumb question, but is floating head and THC the same thing ?

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you. On this machine I just have the z axis mapped to the page up and page down keys on the keyboard and while the machine is running I just watch the torch height to adjust it. A floating head is slightly different from a THC. It is the part that zeros the torch height before every cut while the THC is the part that adjusts the height of the torch during the cut.

[@bobbymarshall7807]

I have a plasma table and I am looking to downgrade, this is a perfect project, I am not familiar with solidworks. just wondering how I can extract the dxfs for the gantry end plates and motor mounts. love the videos and thank you so much for all you're doing!

[@ToshDavis]

I added the DXFs to the google drive

[@jeffmaves7486]

Any updates on cut speeds. Would like to also cut lighter metal like 14-16 gauge for metal art but was concerned about gantry weight with higher speeds or is this not a concern. Not sure what your gantry weighs?

[@ToshDavis]

I'm not sure about the gantry weight, it definitely is pretty heavy, but I haven't had any problems. I know I've cut some things at around 80 to 100 in/min. Most of the time I cut thin material though I'll just lower the current setting. So instead of cutting at the max 40 amps of my machine, I'll just cut at 20 amps for example

[@Oscar-ew5nf]

Hi, i am going to build one. But i am wondering if its better to use a waterbed or a floor grate. And a big funnel under. And do i need 3 axis (do i need the torch height controller?). Or can i use 2 axis. Thanks :)

[@ToshDavis]

Sweet! The water table helps keep the fumes and particles under control. It also has the added benefit that you can immediately pick up the parts after your cut. Without the water table, the parts are hot right after cutting. I don't cut very much thin material but I do believe it helps with warping during the cut of thin material as well. But my first build had no water table and it was fine it just created a lot of fumes and particles. You don't really need the 3rd axis but you will need some way of adjusting the height of the torch unless you are cutting the same thickness of material all the time. I currently don't have a THC with this machine but the THC will help a lot with your cut quality as well as making your consumables last longer.

[@blacktopmods]

what was the travel speed for those 1/2" cuts? I was doing some cutting by hand the other day with my Hypertherm 45 and at full power 45 amps it looked like a toddler was playing with my torch, horrible horrible cuts. I was probably going too fast as I was inside (it's 102 degrees outside, and dry and I have a lot of combustible grasses around the shop) I didn't want to cut outside for fear of starting a fire. Inside I have epoxy floors and even with a welding blanket it ruins the floor with burn marks.

[@ToshDavis]

I cut half inch at 8 in/min. So very slow!

[@mt-qw7yt]

nice build. Does your laptop have a parallel port? If not can you use adaptor to connect the parallel cable?

[@ToshDavis]

Yeah, my laptop has a parallel port. And I don't think an adaptor works because you need all the pins with the parallel port or at least most of them, not entirely sure though, you may want to do some research on that. I did mention that you have the option to use a PCI card for a desktop solution, not sure what the options are with a laptop though. I actually just ended up buying a laptop with a parallel port as they're pretty cheap

[@mamburgey5]

@@ToshDavis The voltages are not the same on a PCI parallel card. I'm also using mach3 and had issues when I trying to swap out my windows 7 work PC. You're stuck going with a computer that comes with Parallel or getting a converter with drivers to work over Ethernet.

[@ToshDavis]

@@mamburgey5 Oh okay good to know. Thank you for the update

[@roelloeffen]

Hi Tosh, brilliant series! I’ve converted you plans to millimetres, and build one myself! Big thank you! I’ve trouble homing the X and A axis, since the do run into the limit switches but won’t back off enough to disengage the switches . Do you know what this could be? My Y axis is homing fine. Thanks again, love you plans and videos!

[@ToshDavis]

Awesome!! I’m really glad you liked them and were able to make it yourself. With the limit switches I’m not sure. I haven’t ran into that problem. Doing a little bit of research it seems like if you reinstall Mach3 it fixes the issue. Not sure if you tried that. But I guess it’s a software issue it seems.

[@roelloeffen]

@@ToshDavis I've used your most recent documentation. Thanks for thinking along! I've tried this but it doesn't solve the issue. I did reuse my XML file for the settings, maybe Windows keeps shared files or so. I'll try removing everything before reinstalling. Hope this works out. Keep it posted.

[@roelloeffen]

@@ToshDavis in addition a video to illustrate my problem: kzbin.infog9ZItHQ3YkI?feature=share

[@roelloeffen]

Problem found! My board "Mach3 USB", uses a back-off setting in the plug-in settings.

[@ToshDavis]

@@roelloeffen awesome! Glad you found the problem!

[@keithbrown4878]

Is there settings for max travel of the gantry ? Would it be advisable to add limit switches max travel? I can hardly wait to get this completed

[@ToshDavis]

Not entirely sure what you’re asking. But there are “Soft Limits” this limits are limits that Mach3 has where it won’t let the machine move past this value. Though to us these you need to have your machine homed so it knows where it’s at. Though you should be homing every time anyways. You can add more limit switches if you want. The problem is the number of input pins on the breakout board. Though you should be able to wire the switches in series and use only one pin

[@eduardoforerolalinde494]

Good job One question, could you tell me where I bought all the electronic components to build my cnc plasma table. I'm in Bogota Colombia, thank you very much for your information

[@ToshDavis]

Hi there, honestly I'm not sure, but I did a little googling and it looks like you can order somethings from Amazon, you just need to use Amazon's international website. But I also found a website call ubuy, it seems like it will ship to Colombia. Hopefully that is helpful

[@mamburgey5]

Did you use regular water for the table? I'm currently using an Eagle plasma table and I plan on building a water table for it but I hear the special "cutting" fluid is pricey.

[@ToshDavis]

I’ve been just using normal water. Though because my machine is outside I have to drain it after during the winter otherwise it will freeze and during the summer is just evaporates. So it’s never really just sitting there. If I had it in the shop I would probably just add some of the cutting fluid to help it not rust. I don’t think you would have to change the water too often

[@jakebonsall]

Brilliant series. I was just wondering why a A axis? Is it a helper for the X/Y axis or a separate axis its self? Just wondered as i though A axis was for 180°

[@ToshDavis]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. If you look at my first video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hajIiIuCjsStmKs you will see my old plasma cutter table. This one only had a motor on one side, no A axis and you could really only cut close to the motor because at the far end there was nothing supporting it and so it would jitter. I guess this is a long way of saying that the A axis is just a helper for the X/Y axis. It stiffens that cross beam, the gantry, up a lot where now you can cut on both sides without jittering. I'm not sure why they call it an A axis. I think it technically should just be called the Slave axis for X, but in Mach3 they already have the names X, Y, Z, A, and B and so the next available axis is A hence why it's A. I think you are right that A should be 180 degrees normally.

[@jakebonsall]

Thank you tosh for your quick response. Really means alot considering that time has past since the videos were up loaded most content creators rarely respond. So thank you again.

[@VOXIDJON_TEMIROV]

👌👌👌👌👌👌

[@piotrmikoajczyk5152]

Hey there! I`m almost done building my own plasma table and I`m very impressed with your machine Could you please tell me how to set up the z axis so I could home x,y and a axis ? It seems like Mach 3 won`t let me home the axis without the z axis set up in the homing and limits menu. Thanks a lot your videos were extremely helpful while building my machine Greetings from Poland !!!

[@ToshDavis]

Hi sorry for the slow response. At 36:50 is when I go over activating the limit switches. Though if you're following this exactly I'm not sure. Is the problem still there?

[@piotrmikoajczyk5152]

@@ToshDavis I managed to fix my problem thanks a lot! Have you thought about making another video after one year of using your machine ?

[@ToshDavis]

@@piotrmikoajczyk5152 glad you fixed the problem. I haven’t thought of that video idea but I like it!

[@keithbrown2182]

I have a wiring question. Can you clarify why on your updater wiring diagram you have the end switch 2 and 3 in series instead of 1and 2?

[@ToshDavis]

This might be confusing because of the way I have my x and y axis set up. My x axis is the gantry and is the axis driven by 2 motors and my y axis is the carriage on the gantry driven by 1 motor. In most cases this is switched, it just made more sense in my shop location. But because the x axis has 2 motors it also has 2 limit switches and these limit switches need to be working at the same time. So that’s why they are on different circuits. The y axis only has 1 limit switch and the x axis switch doesn’t need to be activated so that’s why it can be in series. You could put the y axis in series with either switch of the x axis it doesn’t matter. Though you need to have the floating head by itself because say you had the floating in the same circuit as the x limit and whenever you hit the floating head it would trigger the limit switch stopping the code.

[@mossmpholo58]

Quick question. i have realized there are 2 motors on X axis, are they driven simultaneously? are they connected on same wiring?

[@ToshDavis]

They are driven simultaneously, but they each have their own wiring and motor driver. If you can imagine only having one motor and driving the gantry from one side the other side without the motor will be able to move because it's at the end of a long beam. This second motor stiffens the whole gantry up and strengthens both sides against resistance.

[@rlcustoms]

hi can you tell me how you attached the metal gear rack to the machine. did you weld it because i received the same ones today and they dont have holes for screwing in. thanks

[@ToshDavis]

Hi yeah, I had to drill the holes into the rack. You can see me do this in part 2. I looked for racks with predrilled holes, but they were either really expensive or too short.

[@rlcustoms]

@@ToshDavis do you think they can be welded?

[@ToshDavis]

@@rlcustoms Theoretically, it is a little weird because you can only weld one side and there is a slight moment about the weld when the gear is in contact with the rack. I think if you welded the ends that would help with that moment. But honestly, I think the moment is small enough it wouldn't be a big deal. With metal compatibility, I think you're fine. When I drilled the holes the rack drilled nicely so I don't think the metal is hardened in any way. I think the biggest problem with welding is that you just really need to make sure you have them aligned properly which may be difficult.

[@rlcustoms]

@@ToshDavis awesome thanks. I have a CNC mill I’ll probably just drill the holes with that.

[@mornevanstaden2010]

Hey Tosh great videos. please advise on the HG20 20mm Linear Rail Guide Actuator CNC 750 i can only get a 450mm stroke? will that be ok? not sure why a 750mm would be necessary? your response will be highly appreciated

[@ToshDavis]

The 750mm was used because I needed 2 330ish mm rails (I forgot the exact dimension) for the z axis and it was cheaper to buy one 750mm and cut it in half then to buy 2 400mm (or whatever dimension I needed, I forget). If needed you could shrink the travel of the z axis or buy two of the 450 mm

[@mornevanstaden2010]

@@ToshDavis awesome thanks for the reply. another question i have i am planning to have my gantry 3m wide for the size plates i have, worrying that it is to heavy is there a bigger nema motor or can o rather put 4 than 2? kind regards

[@mornevanstaden2010]

or perhaps a bigger motor like a 34 nema

[@lehoanghiep9936]

great job, how is the accuracy of product ?

[@ToshDavis]

Plasma cutting as a process is not very accurate compared to other processes, but I would say I have tolerances between 1/32 (0.79375 mm) and 1/16 in (1.5875 mm)

[@roberthosking7524]

That was a thick piece of metal you cut. How many amps is your plasma cutter?

[@ToshDavis]

It’s 40 amps. Its the Hobart AirForce 700i

[@roberthosking7524]

Impressive cut. My cheap ($160) 50amp Plasmargon machine wouldn't stand a chance. Nice build.

[@wingez2445]

how did you the seting of prope or thc sensor i dont understand this part

[@ToshDavis]

I'm not sure I understand the question. The setting for the probe is set in Mach3

[@ivanograndi]

Hi, your videos are interesting, I created a table measuring 3300x 1800 mm years ago, I installed THC SD Proma and everything worked, now it broke down and I installed Proma 150 which must interact with Mach3. the controller I had was not compatible, I saw the LEDs working on diagnostics but the z axis did not move. I tried with a controller the same as yours with a parallel port and everything was ok but to make it work I had to install Windows 7 32 bit, I saw that you make it work with Windows 10, how do you do it?

[@ToshDavis]

Sorry for the late response. But for my computer I'm using windows XP

[@dennisguajardo1940]

I noticed you didn’t have all your slats in, are they causing a issue?

[@ToshDavis]

Yeah, I don't, the reason for this is the material I cut is normally larger so it can span bigger gaps so I don't need as many slats. I took them out because they are consumables and slowly get destroyed. This way I can just replace the used ones with the ones I took out so I don't have to buy new material.

[@IvanMilovanovic.]

how did you switch the switches on driver and how do i set my switches for nema 23 on tb6600

[@ToshDavis]

There’s a chart on the top of the driver that I looked at. I forget what current the nema 23 are rated for. I think it was around 4 amps (I could be wrong) but then I just set the switches for the current that was around that rating. The tb6600 should have a dip switch chart that you can look up and I would go off that. And then look at the current rating for your nema 23 motors.

[@user-zz5lv1my1n]

Hello, I am a fan from China, how do you deal with the electromagnetic interference problem when you DIY this cnc plasma cutting machine? My DIY cnc plasma cutting machine also used the parallel port control board and USB control board respectively. These boards all crashed or the program ran away when the plasma cutting machine started arc. Of course, the plasma cutting machine I purchased is relatively cheap ($100). It is estimated that this product has poor electromagnetic compatibility and is a huge source of interference.

[@ToshDavis]

I personally haven't had any problems with interference. There is a great video by Dr. D-Flo, called "How to Build a CNC Plasma Cutter" and at 25:41 minutes in he starts talking about his interference troubles. It does seem like what it comes down to is the cheap plasma machines use high frequency to start the arc vs my machine (and the machine Dr. D-Flo upgrades to) use pilot arc as their starting method. He is able to get the machine to cut if he insulates the workpiece with wood, but he ends up just upgrading machines. Though I would still just watch the video from the given timestamp.

[@1113562]

What voltage are the pulse and direction signals to stepper controllers from the BOB. Are they 5 V logic or 24V ? I cant think why the BOB needs 24V supply as well as 5V

[@ToshDavis]

I believe the pulse and direction signals are 5 V. But the 24 V is needed to drive the motors.

[@1113562]

Yes 24 V is definitely used for driving the Stepper Motor coils and this is provided directly by Connecting the 24V to the Stepper controllers so why is 24V connected to the PC parallel port Break Out Board (BOB). This board is for distributing 5V signals to the controller Direction, Pulse and Enable inputs. My understanding is that the controller signal inputs (eg. Pulse and Direction) are opto isolated so do not even need a 24V reference.

[@ToshDavis]

@@1113562 Oh I see what you're saying now. After understanding your question I wasn't entirely sure as well. So this is the response ChatGPT gave me: Powering Relays or Other Components: The BOB might have components like relays that require a higher voltage to operate efficiently. These components could be used for controlling spindles, coolants, or other peripherals associated with the CNC machine. Voltage Level Shifting: While the signal inputs are opto-isolated, the board might still require a higher voltage reference for proper level shifting or for powering the opto-isolators themselves, ensuring that the signals transmitted to the stepper drivers maintain integrity and reliability. Enhanced Noise Immunity: Higher voltage levels can offer better noise immunity, especially in industrial environments where electrical interference is common. By providing a 24V supply, the BOB ensures that the system is less susceptible to interference, enhancing the reliability of the CNC machine's operation. Hope this helps! I definitely learned a lot as well.

[@1113562]

Hi Thank you. Level shifting was my only thought as well but if tge stepper controller uses opto isolators these only need a few Volts. An opto isolator is only a LED and a photo sensitive open collector transistor located in close proximity in the chip. There would need a limit resistor so the diode doesn't draw excess current so I'd be surprised if the pulse, direction and Enable inputs would need or be able to cope with 24 Volts. I cannot find a data sheet for the stepper controller used to confirm what the signal voltage level range is.

[@ToshDavis]

@@1113562 Ya not sure as well. If I had to guess I would say it has to do with the relay or spindle as I know the spindle outputs up to 10 volts.

[@josepacheco459]

how do you connect the end stop switches ??? i’m lost at that part

[@ToshDavis]

You wire these into the input ports on the breakout board. Do you have a timestamp of the exact part you're confused on?

[@aarontobin1740]

@@ToshDavisI have same problem the time stamp is 24:19

[@johncarlocalingasanfadri-b3431]

SIR , what version of mach 3 did u use in this project?

[@ToshDavis]

Sorry for late response, but I just used the normal mach3 version. It's just the version you download when you go to their website. Looking right now it looks like version R3.043 is the most updated one. Hopefully that answers your question

[@johncarlocalingasanfadri-b3431]

@@ToshDavis i used GRBL controller but we are still planning to use mach 3 . Im just having a little problem.on how to wire the plasma torch and to trigger it

[@richmansvideo]

Do i need laptop with parallel port or can be used USB?

[@ToshDavis]

I believe you can use an ethernet but it's a bit more complicated and requires different hardware. The parallel port is the easiest way. I don't believe you can just use a USB.

[@itsmyh2r420]

Sir can we replace stepper motor drivers d542t with dm 556

[@ToshDavis]

From my very limited research it seems like the dm 556 should work fine

[@ToshDavis]

I know the link that I have for the M5045 on Amazon they are currently unavailable. I just wanted to make sure you knew the exact ones I used, but it shouldn't matter too much on which motor drivers you use as long as they are compatible with the breakout board and stepper motors you are using. The things I was looking for was that the motor driver could supply the correct current for the motors I was using. I also wanted to make sure the motor driver's supply voltage was the voltage of the power supply, so in my case 24 volts. Lastly I was just looking at the reviews and making sure people didn't have any problems.

[@michaelhandford7794]

How do you set up the floating head in mach3

[@ToshDavis]

I talk about it in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqSnXoVpqLR1Z5I

[@itsmyh2r420]

Sir can we replace dm 542t with dm 556

[@ToshDavis]

From my very limited research it seems like the dm 556 should work fine

[@frodesteen4751]

Do you have the drawings in mm?

[@ToshDavis]

I don’t. I’m sorry

[@nguyenxuanhung543]

how do you prevent interference (ground the device)

[@ToshDavis]

I personally haven't had any interference problems, so I can't help with this. I do know this has been a problem for other people on KZbin though.

[@ToshDavis]

Hi to elaborate more on your question. The machine is grounded through the power cables. At the timestamp 19:21, the green cable at the top that is running between the wall and the power supply has a ground lead that is hooked up, along with the power and neutral lines. And through the metal box, everything else should be grounded. Sorry, it's not very clear in the video. It does seem like the main cause of interference is the plasma machine. If you're having interference problems once the torch starts up I would watch Dr. D-Flo's video, called "How to Build a CNC Plasma Cutter" and at 25:41 minutes in he starts talking about his interference troubles. It does seem like what it comes down to is the cheap plasma machines use high frequency to start the arc vs my machine (and the machine Dr. D-Flo upgrades to) use pilot arc as their starting method. I would also say that I don't have the plasma cutter lead running through the cable drag chain.

[@ouroboros5378]

You can used a Emi filter , ferrite ring and shielded cable with good grond

[@hottamaleboy1198]

What size is your table

[@ToshDavis]

It’s roughly 5ft by 5ft or 1500mm by 1500mm

[@danielpatty9485]

What is your "A" axis?

[@ToshDavis]

Because the gantry is wide you want to drive the gantry with two motors one motor on each side of the gantry, which means you need more motor inputs. This is why I’m using the A axis. There is technically is only 3 axes, x, y, and z. But because I need a 4th motor I use the A axis on the breakout board. Because these motors are doing the same thing you call the A axis the slave axis to the X axis.

[@takudzwamatangira2250]

Hie Tosh Can we exchange emails ,there are some details I want to confirm with you

[@andrewavers1161]

Hi Tosh your videoed are excellent and iv nearly set up my machine, however one my torch probes the material it winds all the way up and I can’t work out why… any ideas kzbin.infoXlzsmHPtwGE?feature=share

[@ToshDavis]

Hi Andrew sorry for the slow response not sure if you figured it out or not. It's hard to tell without looking at the code, but it seems that after the G31 command the controller is tell your torch to go to some very high number. Or the G92 command is not resetting the z axes to zero. You can check, but the commands should go something like G31 Z-100 F10 (This just tells the z axis to go to -100 at 10 in/min or what ever units you have set. But it's also waiting for the probe command and will continue to the next step if the probe is hit. The -100 is just some arbitrary number to just have to go really far down) G92 Z-0.25 (This is the command that might be messed up. This basically says to now set the z axis to -0.25. This is the command that zeros the axis. You have to set this to what ever the offset of your floating head is.) G0 Z0.71 (This is just saying for the z axis to now go to 0.71, or what ever you want the probe height to be.)

[@andrewavers1161]

@@ToshDavis Hi Tosh, sorry iv been very busy with work but I will try and look at this again this evening and have a play with the g code I will almost certainly have more newb questions thanks

[@ToshDavis]

@@andrewavers1161 ya no worries! Don’t hesitate to ask

[@johnross3752]

not good

[@ToshDavis]

I'm sorry to hear that

[@keithbrown2182]

I had issues tuning motors. My Y axis has A as a slave it would change the steeps calibration on the Y and not change the setting on the A axis> I had to change that manually for the A axis to match the Y axis. Is this normal?

[@ToshDavis]

Hi, thank you for your patience in my response time. Yes, this is normal. Not sure why Mach3 isn't smart enough to figure out that you want the setting for both A and Y. But I had to do this too

[@keithbrown4878]

@@ToshDavis i’m glad that it’s normal. I was so excited when everything started moving the first time and so bummed when I tried to move it the second time and it went haywire. Did you ever hook up a THC to your table?

[@ToshDavis]

@@keithbrown4878 Glad you got it working! I haven't hooked up a THC yet, I do want to though, just not sure when