How to Build a Snow Anchor

[@SirSnowman]

35 °C outside, 2:30 am, got to work tomorrow... Yes, show me how to build a snowanchor youtube!

[@jacksonreich819]

climber: this snow is great, snowboarder: this snow is TRASH

[@CommieHunter7]

did you put the picket in backwards when you showed the top clip? I thought it should ALWAYS be open side to the load, not the pointy side.

[@jamesaddison81]

1:40 the picket is facing a different way to 2:56

[@byronmuir9030]

Yes, that's the correct way to place it. When clipping from the top without the attached cable, you face the cable away from the pull and the point of the V shape toward the pull. When mid-clipping with the cable you face the ends of the V toward the pull and the cable toward the pull. This is to prevent buckling of the stake. When it is top clipped the forces through the stake are reversed and it would buckle at a weaker load than having the spine take the load, which is the case of facing the point of the V in the direction of pull.

[@jamesaddison81]

@@byronmuir9030 very interesting, thanks!

[@jkillerwhale835]

Imagine Emilie Drinkwater marries James Eatfruit

[@gregoryfoster2547]

it would be worth your time to watch howNOT2 testing of snow anchors. Especially if you're in PNW. Painful how some snow anchors perform so poorly.

[@justinberkeleyrussell3282]

Thanks for calling this out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioDcZ3qXq8SSmrc for those interested. Don't be dissuaded by the clickbaity titles and editing - seeing a 3' mid-clip picket pull out at 1 kN (like 225 lbs) is eye opening.

[@Bustercruz]

It is true that snow anchors will only be as strong as the snow allows. The testing done by howNot2 is done in only one snow condition and on one day. It is not reflective of all the different snow conditions and associated snow anchor strength that one may encounter in the mountains. Others tests done in better snow have produced results in the 7-9KN range.

[@adamkaminski351]

What if it's softer snow then what do you do?

[@Govanification]

Try to compact it if possible or use a snow fluke if compaction is not possible.

[@EddieErion929]

She seems like the real deal!

[@gerrycoleman7290]

Could you please tell me the brand name on the ice picket? Thanks

[@rayze686]

Its a Yates Cable Picket

[@Currentfavlist]

If you are building a T-Trench Anchor, you should avoid walking on the snow towards the load. This could cause a colapse.

[@profd65]

Thanks for the expert commentary, Mr. Climbing Gym.

[@mtnsense]

Actually, in the case of soft powdery snow, you will want to walk on the snow towards the load in order to "work harden" the fluffy snow into more compact snow. If it is firm snow, you are right, and walking on that part of the snow is not beneficial.

[@Aestheticnerdlife]

@@profd65 I just realized you're a troll account with no actual knowledge; why do people waste their lives like you.

[@gabrielcrawford4296]

I'll be sure to bring a block of wood on my next trip so that I'm not hammering metal on metal for crevasse rescuing!