How to build a Spridget Gearbox - Part 2 of 2 (Race or Street)

This is Part 2 of a 2 part series on how to assemble a Spridget (Mg Midget, Austin Healey Sprite, etc) Ribcase Gearbox.
It will give you all the details you need to take the rotating assembly you built in the Part 1 video and put it completely together into the case with all the small detent balls and springs and other gizmos that goes inside the gearbox. I’ll show you the tools I use as well as the techniques to build a fully functional and long lasting gearbox you can trust.
Chapters are below so you can fast forward to any part of the assembly process to get you unstuck if you’re having an problem. Cheers…and I hope this video helped you!
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
01:50 Step 1 - Install the main Shaft Bearing
06:55 Step 2 - Measure 2nd Gear End Float
08:00 Step 3 - Measure Lay Shaft End Float
14:18 Step 4 - Install the Reverser Gear Idler
16:28 Step 5 - Install the Lay Gear
17:35 Step 6 - Install the First Motion Shaft
21:45 Step 7 - Install the Main Shaft
28:50 Step 8 - Check the Tail Stock Alignment
29:52 Step 9 - Install the Lay Shaft
31:45 Step 10 - Shift Rods, Selector Forks, Balls, and Springs
46:08 Step 11 - Install the Front Cover
57:23 Step 12 - Install the Tail Stock
1:01:52 The Finish Line
Hope you enjoyed the Video….Please subscribe!

[@olddirtbeard]

Your two-part video here on the ribcase gearbox rebuild is absolutely terrific! Just what I needed, and what a huge time saver. Thank you so very much for your painstaking attention to detail, both in your descriptions and for the clarity in the video detail.

[@jptoro2007]

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1275 transmission. This is one of the best videos I have seen. Very well explained. Thank you.

[@almotta1319]

First let me say that your video is fantastic! Very helpful in learning the details of overhauling these gearboxes. I sourced a brass washer as you suggested for the 1-2 shift rail and when I went to fit it, it interfered with the casting adjacent to 3-4 shift rail hole, so I could not get the washer to sit flat against the case and therefore, even after grinding the washer, it would prevent the fork from coming back to its proper position. One could grind the casting to make it flat, but I chose to leave the washer out. Just FYI.

[@wrenchracerepeat5479]

OMG, this is the video I've been looking for. Thank you! As a fellow racer I can't express how much more confident I am to build up a spare box. Thank you again

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

You’re quite welcome…😎

[@rickmoss3648]

Wow, just wow! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise! An awesome video!

[@jplacroix461]

OMG your videos are amazing! I have two of these ribcase gearboxes I need to rebuild and after watching your videos I feel much more confident. New Subscriber. Thank you.

[@solomonxi-me7bk]

i cannot thank you enough. just brilliant

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

You’re quite welcome…

[@smorgasblogg1]

Awesome, keep it coming! Looking forward to a tear down video.

[@jptoro2007]

Me too....😀

[@nedwagon]

Great follow-up to video part 1. Love the detail you put into your videos.

[@chrisduroy9045]

Steve I have found it is easier to stand the trans housing up on the flyhousing end while fitting the correct thrust washers. You don’t have to wrestle with the small rod

[@olddirtbeard]

Hi Steve, I have been following your page here, it is a great help, thank you very much! I have assembled the mainshaft and installed the output bearing plate, but: 1) The first gear assembly moves longitudinally a bit on the output shaft 2) I can slide 1st gear into engagement fine, but it will not slide back into 2nd gear without me applying pressure with a screwdriver. I am afraid to continue the assembly at this stage as I am certain something is wrong. I emailed a photo and a link to a 15 second video of what I am seeing to All Things Vintage Racing and hopefully you may be able to tell me what I have done wrong. Thank you again so very much for your help! Your videos are terrific!

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

Thanks! I got your email. I’m out of town, will be back tomorrow and send you a response. Cheers!

[@olddirtbeard]

Thank you!

[@misunderestimator5283]

Thanks so much for taking the time to share this! Can you help me? I rebuilt a ribcase several years ago - it’s perfect except the lockout detent for reverse on the remote control prevents me from selecting reverse - I’ve had to disable it. I’ve tried reducing spring pressure but it’s either locked out or not protecting from accidental reverse selection. Do you have any advice please? Cheers Todd

[@eggybreadplease]

An excellent pair of videos on a ribbed case gearbox build, I really appreciate the work it must have taken to produce them 👍 A couple of Q’s if I may; I noticed the front oil seal appeared off centre… Do the front and rear gaskets figure when shimming, or is that unnecessary? These videos definitely boost confidence in having a go at repairing one. Top effort 🖖

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

Thanks for the kind words…and you are absolutely correct about compensating for the gasket thickness…I should have covered that in the video…I always add an extra 2 thousandth shim to both ends…just to ensure everything is nice and snug and tight…and I think I mention that in the video at some point… Thanks again…this is what these videos are all about…communication…so I’ll add a something to the description on that.. Cheers…and thanks for watching!

[@letmeplaymystrat]

Very informative series, well done. Do you know if the MGB gearbox is the same? I am about to tackle that job.

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

Very similar…most of the same things will apply…

[@letmeplaymystrat]

@@allthingsvintageracing8656Thanks and thank you for providing such a detailed look into the gearbox. Cheers!

[@olddirtbeard]

For the trick brass washer on the selector rod, do you only do this for the 1st/2nd selector rod? Thank you again for your terrific video!

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

Yes. Only the 1st/2nd rod. It prevents over shifting and getting stuck in 2nd gear…or in between 1st and 2nd … which is an inherent problem in the original design.

[@olddirtbeard]

@@allthingsvintageracing8656 Thank you!

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

Great video set. About to do mine for my Austin A35. Q: What clutch set do you like? Can't quite see the part number on your disc. *Is there an accounting for the gasket thickness when determining the shim thicknesses?

[@tsheesley123]

Great Video, saved my but on my rebuild. Were do you source the 2mm washers from? having a hard time locating them. Have you tried Nylon spacers?

[@allthingsvintageracing8656]

Thanks. I believe you can find brass washers from McMaster Carr. I have not tried nylon washers…but I suspect they would work…Other than being a bit soft.

[@jptoro2007]

Is this the 2mm washer from McMaster Carr ?: General Purpose Brass Washer for M2 Screw Size, 2.200 mm ID, 4.500 mm OD part# 98691A111

[@olddirtbeard]

I believe this should be a good option, might need to be reamed a bit on the ID, but will fit snug on the 7/16" shaft and averages 2mm thick.