How To Build a Transistor Curve Tracer using the eBay CH-012 kit

[@pisotones2348]

Nice! One hint: if you've got curve distortion/oscillation just insert one or two small ferrite beads in the wire connecting the BASE input from the board to the banana socket as near as you can to the socket.

[@thelastofthemartians]

Tip for people who have inkjet printers: I've had excellent results with Avery 8665 transparent inkjet shipping labels. Just seal it with a few light spray coats of clear acrylic gloss...hasn't yellowed even after 10 years.

[@TheRadiogeek]

Very nice project ! I like how you made the labels for the box. Thanks for showing us all the tips and tricks for making such a nice piece of test equipment. Job well done! 👏🏻👍

[@grahamnichols1416]

Love the inclusion of the instructions and input voltage specs on the rear of the case really took this project up a notch. NICE.

[@mikeoliver3254]

Very professional looking project. I am going to have to put one of these together one day.

[@fritzkinderhoffen2369]

One of these crashed south of Gallup, NM. It was said to be a toxic waste site afterwards. We use to see them flying around us. I guess Gallup was some sort of way-point? Funny how at certain angles they would visually kind of blink out and disappear also. An odd looking craft easily identifiable.

[@jlippencott1]

A tip for front panels. If you print your image mirrored on the transparency, you will have the toner on the back side of the sheet. Attach it with the lettering toward the panel face and you won't need to add a protective finish.

[@NearFarMedia]

Yeah, this is a good tip if using a transparency sheet, but when using a plastic sticker sheet as I did, you can only print on the front.

[@cranegantry868]

Nice build, you did a very tidy job.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Nice box and build. Very professional looking.

[@radio655]

Very beautiful build! Well done!

[@josephbuganski8066]

Nice clean looking project, good job!

[@zikermu]

Thanks a lot for these excellents explanations . Great job . I wish you a happy Xmas .

[@NearFarMedia]

No worries at all! You have a good Christmas too. :)

[@alphonsefrascato3342]

it would be nice to see the whole process for your labeling from start to finish.

[@mitkopetrovik259]

Groud loop, try Star ground technique, that is, all the grounds should be connected to the same point And one more thing, the metal case for safety's sake should be connected to grond from main, but from that point to ground from electronics to be connected through 2 diodes opposite anode and cathode, parallel to them the capacitor 100n /250v and resistor 100 ohm / 2w To be more clear, all 4 components are connected in parallel which make a connection between grounds!

[@andymouse]

This holds the electronics of ground by a diode drop ? what's the purpose please ?

[@Robert-hr6sh]

Nice kit & video 👍 thanks.

[@chefbink61]

Really nice job good vid!!

[@RicardoPenders]

You can use shielded cable but you need to have it connected to the main device that has an earth ground only, the way you did it makes a ground loop which is why your signal got messed up. So in your case you need to have the outer shield connected to your scope, even on the inside of the curve tracer case you cannot have the outer shield connected to anything, it has to be floating on one side and connected on the scope side. The same thing happens when you're working with audio gear for example and you hear a buzz coming from the speakers, with car audio it's even worse because in a car pretty much everything can couple into the audio signals and can have multiple reasons why you hear the buzzing sound, I've had that happen when I had the power cables crossing over the audio signal cable (RCA) more than once and I could only cross the cables at a 90 degree angle, and when I had just 10 cm of the power cable parallel to the RCA the buzzing was so bad that I didn't even wanted to turn on the audio system. I got the buzz completely out eventually but for that I couldn't have the power cables anywhere near the RCA cable, have it cross over in a 90 degree angle just once and I had to replace the cheap RCA cable with a very special one from Rockford Fosgate which has the two signal lines and the ground all separated and isolated from each other and then the three are braided the full length of the cable, only when I had that cable and worked many hours to carefully route the RCA cables through the middle of the car making sure that nothing else is routed near the RCA cable and the power cables came from the back so those didn't come anywhere near the RCA cable I finally was able to get the f...ing buzz out. Normally it's way easier to make a car audio system but I had a BMW at the time and those cars are notorious for the buzzing sound to get into the audio system somehow and it's very hard to get it out, at least that's what people told me who were professional car audio builders.

[@henrybecker2842]

Thank you for the very thorough documentation of your build process and the logic behind it. There was one topic you did not include in your video that I am very interested in. Do you mind explaining how you made the rectangular cutout in the back panel for the line filter. I know I can buy in-line line/emi filters, though I much prefer the style filter you used in your project. Thanks for your advice.

[@NearFarMedia]

I just used a nibbling tool to cut it out. Super easy with the thin aluminium, just be sure to cover the panel with a good amount of masking tape to prevent scratches! :) This sort of thing is what I used: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=nibbling+tool+metal

[@albertoldschool6950]

I would place the transformer as far away from circuit board as possible. To prevent Induction coupling into test circuit.

[@samuel_towle]

Just arrange your three terminal connectors so that the "Male" connectors are attached to the transformer and the other "Male" connector on the power board DC output. Then attach the "Female" connectors to the input of the power board and input of the curve tracer. Your power board would only connect one way. Drawback is you could connect the transformer to the tracer board accidentally. Short leads would prevent improper interconnection.

[@martinkuliza]

Question..... on the site you recommended there is a CH-25 which is a complete curve tracer, however it only has 2 inputs. Now on your project CH-12 EX You have 3 Inputs including Power supply What is the purpose of the CH-25 vs your one ?

[@steve9122]

Very good build, very professional looking design I can’t say enough how well you did on this build. Also, very good explanations for each process however, you could’ve condensed this video a bit more as you over explained each step (just some constructive criticism I don’t mean to sound harsh whatsoever.) once again though, excellent job well done!

[@NearFarMedia]

Thanks! I do try to be concise, but it is always a battle with my tendency to waffle on a bit. :)

[@stoatrepublic]

42:53 I think you turned the test leads into coaxial cable putting shielding on it.

[@NearFarMedia]

Yeah, in the end it worked better without the shielding, but with some small-ish ferrite beads instead.

[@briandenley]

Nice work! Thanks!

[@rainmakerscustomsrainmaker8985]

I have bought 2 of these kits about a year a part and by looking at your build the only difference I did was I used a plastic enclosure. My Results were not the same. Granted I have a digital scope but I have no traces that look like this. the only other change is I am using a torrid transformer. Do you think this could be why mine is not working correctly?

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

On the Digital scope use the averaging function. It'll look a lot cleaner.

[@valakatz3967]

Thank you for a nice presentation in this build. I just bought one unit like this one, and just one question about the connection for the X AND Y axis. I do not have a schematic for this build, can anyone help me to find or share any information you might have, it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.

[@NearFarMedia]

What information do you need exactly? I have linked the instructions in the video description which might help you.

[@cranegantry868]

If you reverse the print, would it be possible to apply the sticker so that the plastic substrate is at the front and the print is closest to the metal?

[@gaberboraey5477]

It can test mosfet and IGBT!?

[@stevec5000]

Without any kind of settings do you just have to hope that it's setup correctly for any type of transistor you want to test? Are there any it can't test?

[@cajuncoinhunter]

I am trying to find cases like you have .... Can you reply back with a couple links please ?

[@Giovanni2862]

What software did you use to design the labels?

[@larrybud]

Have you tried changing some of the x/y functions in the digital score to do things like averaging? Also, are you able to hook resistor/diode/capacitor to this as well?

[@marcelojordao6602]

ola !! tudo bem? uma pergunta, voce consegue detectar o efeito early? grato um abraço!

[@andrewverran3498]

Greetings from Radelaide Australia, could you have put a second set of component inputs , ie on a switch to switch between testing say 2 Mosfets? Peace.

[@NearFarMedia]

I think it would be possible to do, you just need to use a good quality 3PDT switch and you could build a handy A-B test jig.

[@jeffwright6685]

Can this be converted to test other components like resistors, capacitor,zener diodes etc ?

[@paul.alarner6410]

have you a link to the ebay seller,i cant find any mention of it on an ebay search.

[@DIYTechTips]

Sweet build :D

[@lb5sh]

45:47 Your oscilloscope has a "Subscribe to me now" position?

[@hansu-nihon]

Where did you buy that aluminium case? Any link?

[@NearFarMedia]

I purchased it from a store in Akihabara, here is a link to the manufacturers website: www.settsu.co.jp/catalogs/sersrc/575

[@alexanderhuemer1587]

I know this video is almost 2 years old... I am going to still ask: NFM, would you mind to make a quick video in which you attach some non-transistor components and show the results? Diodes, capacitors, inductors, transformer windings, that sort of thing. To the collector and emitter terminals that would be. Thanks!

[@NearFarMedia]

I just tried it out with a few two terminal components, but it seems it doesn't really work. I couldn't get a meaningful trace no matter what combination I connected the component to the curve tracer leads. Seems this one is only good for use with transistors and the like.

[@alexanderhuemer1587]

@@NearFarMedia That's interesting, rather unexpected though. Not sure why that would be the case. Have you checked with a scope what kind of waveform the collector and base stimulation have? The collector supply should be a have wave rectified sine (The old Tektronix curve tracers have that), a rising sawtooth or a triangle wave. The base supply should be a stairstep curve, synced to the wave of the collector supply. That's rising current, not rising voltage though, so you'd have to measure with a shunt resistor, assuming you don't have a current probe like most people, including me. If you are willing to post a picture of these two waveforms, that would be much appreciated. In case you are interested, I stumbled upon this article recently that aims to build a pretty capable curve tracer. www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2017/12/building-curve-tracer.html

[@yakup3429]

Hello, is it possible to connect this tester to a PC?

[@MrAppleimac01]

Can u use this for other component testing like the octopus curve tracer

[@rusty1187]

I just built one of these, and my question is this:... Is this only good for transistors? Or can i test diodes and caps and resistors too?

[@izzzzzz6]

i used to have a 2chan scope but now i only have a 1chan mini scope. how about turning an old tube Tv into the monitor. Would that be possible?

[@NearFarMedia]

I'm sure you could use an old TV, there are projects out there on the internet to turn a TV into a rudimentary oscilloscope, but I've never tried it myself.

[@TheRetiredtech]

Great to still be able to go but things

[@andymouse]

Do you need a center tap transformer for the power supply please ? or can you use a full bridge and then the pos neg regulators ?

[@NearFarMedia]

Yeah, I used a center tap transformer to make it easier to get the dual voltages.

[@lelandclayton5462]

Nice, I might buy one of those kits. When you were using the shielding on the input cables did you have it tied to Earth Ground or DC Negative Ground? I know with Guitar Amps and old Radios the shield is typically tied to Chassis Ground (IE: Earth) to reduse Hum Only one side of the cable is connected while the other side is left floating.

[@NearFarMedia]

I found it didn't matter where the shields were connected. I think the shield causes a capacitive coupling effect of some sort which caused the distortion. The best thing to do is to use unshielded wires that are as short as possible and use some ferrite beads on them if needed.

[@rcarioca]

Let's see it working

[@LestonDr]

have you tried this for valve tube matching?

[@NearFarMedia]

Not yet. I have a few tubes I could try it on, but I have a couple other curve tracers on the restoration to-do list for future videos.

[@terencekaye9948]

What line filter is that your using?

[@NearFarMedia]

A Schaffner FN261S-6-06-10

[@terencekaye9948]

Thank you NFM,, And thank you for doing this video...

[@leohobbleohobb3781]

The tips from xraytonyb about those 4 6.2 Volt zener diodes to for the power reg on curve tracer pcb ,switch from those 4 half watt zeners to 2 1 watt zeners 6.2 Volt. .His tip make sense ,2 zener diodes in parallel dont "open" excact at the same Voltage do to the tolerance.Watch his video.I did it to mine and it work fine.Have read a tip on how to get less noise on the bnc outputs by using a cap.You know the value i should try?Nice build video

[@NearFarMedia]

Oh, thanks for the info! I haven't played with capacitors on the output, so I'm not sure about what values to use, might be a case of trying different values to see what works best.

[@leohobbleohobb3781]

@@NearFarMedia here is reduse noise on that kit ccurve tracer. eevblog forum member wrote :Added a 1nF capacitor between the emitter and the collector. It gives sharper traces with less noise, whilst not interfering with the measurement..This i will implement also.Cap on x or y output is the wrong place to put is.depend on the quad opamp ability to handle almost short to ground .Not shure.Hope it helps

[@leohobbleohobb3781]

@@NearFarMedia qoute from eevblog forum on the curve tracer:Due to the added wire length to the device-under-test (because of the switch), I've added a 1nF capacitor between the emitter and the collector. It gives sharper traces with less noise, whilst not interfering with the measurement.

[@steve9122]

I wasn’t trying to be offensive whatsoever just wanted to give constructive criticism. Your build was inspirational and I’m building the exact same thing but I’m having a very difficult time finding a suitable transformer.

[@sittichaichaiyakoch6072]

Thank 💖💖💖💖

[@DeeegerD]

Hello Mr. Chatty

[@josephbuganski8066]

.75A transformer works fine. -FYI

[@WApnj]

Probably could have used that case. Mount the xformer sideways...

[@Bangkoktoshop]

You can buy from the official website Thaikits.com , below is the link www.thaikits.com/index.php/measurement-testing-checker/ch-012-transistor-curve-tracer-adapter-xy-oscilloscopes-2-ranges-biasOnline%20Electronic%20Kit%20Store.html

[@NearFarMedia]

Yep, that's the kit I used, along with this power supply: www.thaikits.com/index.php/regurator-power-supply/15v-1a-ac-dc-regulator-power-supply-input-ac-12-18vOnline%20Electronic%20Kit%20Store.html

[@miss.wright3035]

Just buy a used Hameg for $50 with component test option.

[@mschwage]

Why do the digital scopes appear noisy? See kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJ_aoWOmgJ2HsM0 for the answer.

[@gonzalohernandez88]

Esos kit una vez ensamblados no funcionan por una u otra razón. Es mejor comprarlos ya ensamblados. Yo tengo amplia experiencia en kits de artículos electrónicos que termino tirándolos a la basura, pero mantengo viva la ilusión que alguno llegue a funcionar.

[@lasanthabandara7455]

Give me eby link