How to Build Expandable Off-grid Solar Systems w/ EG4 6000XP

[@WillProwse]

The 6000XP has become the most popular inverter on this channel, and is currently on backorder. To reserve your spot in the next shipment, check the affiliate links below: Current Connected (30 units left, 2 weeks out): www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-6000xp-inverter/?ref=wp Signature Solar (100's available, but may take 3+ weeks): signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-hybrid-inverter/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN If you need a blueprint and parts list, check out my website: 12,000W Schematic: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html 6,000W Schematic: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint-559371.html 0:00 System Design Discussion 3:54 Parallel Operation Surge Testing 5:17 How to Build it Yourself! 8:03 Ground Neutral Bond Discussion 8:48 Combiner Box/Load Center Organization 12:06 Programming Inverters for Parallel Operation 13:49 Conclusion *Does off-grid solar confuse you?* Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com *Join our DIY solar community* #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com *Check out my Book* Best-selling and beginner-friendly guide to 12V off-grid solar! amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Energy! They will price out a system and get your house offgrid: ts.la/william57509 *My DIY Solar Equipment Recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):* 12V/48V Lithium Solar Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Complete Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html Plug-N-Play System Recommendations: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete "Add to Cart" 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html *My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:* *Signature Solar* Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Current Connected* SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components. Fantastic customer support: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp *Litime* My favorite 12V budget battery!: www.litime.com/?ref=XBIA62RFcalHns *Epoch Batteries* My favorite high-quality 12V battery: www.epochbatteries.com/products/12v-460ah-lifepo4-battery-ip67-heated-bluetooth-victron-comms?rfsn=7352625.50494d *Renogy* A classic 12V solar store that has been around for ages! DC to DC Chargers and more! renogy.sjv.io/n1VjXx *Rich Solar* Renogy's biggest competitor! Similar products, but at a better price: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Battery Hookup* Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 5% off code: diysolar *Contact Information:* I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: [e-mail] Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar *FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:* Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

[@DaftKermitThePunk]

Looking for panels for my giant roof, what do you suggest again? Was going through your videos but most are 1-4 years old. Googled best type of solar and it said "tandem solar cells" but im not finding that other than from 1 company. Which would be the best bang for buck? Once i pick panels though im stuck with whatever system comes with it to make the power usable. ty ty ❤

[@Peter-qn3ok]

👍

[@Billie-solarproduct]

Cool

[@tsp2jxd]

So, the GEN input. Does it actually work for generator input?! Does it actually do what a chargeverter does? Can you clarify please?

[@mikebalentine]

Wow that’s a good product

[@jimgraham290]

A followup on required/preferred battery configuration & wiring in this setup would be helpful. I was trying to get a good look at the cabling, but having that be covered would be more comforting. Great video...

[@lwwarren]

You are the man Will! You're making all this so attainable to the average home owner. I've drastically changed my plans based on your incredibly good videos. I'm moving my home almost completely off grid. It's "illegal" for me to completely disconnect from the grid once connected but I'm going to shift my load almost entirely to the "generator" side of the transfer switch. I'll leave 1 LED bulb in the garage for the power company!

[@l0gic23]

They probably won't care as long as you keep paying the connection service fee....

[@chrisE815]

​@@l0gic23until all the neighbors do it too. Then the govt is gonna come for you.

[@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin]

I like you already and we're not even neighbors! What happens if someone's house burns down? Do they get fined for not using power???

[@l0gic23]

@@Channel-gz9hm some of the worst places will "condemn" your home for not having power or water service... Those infrastructure loans have to be paid somehow...

[@LivingFree4All]

Me too lol INDEPENDENCE! lol

[@watchman1982]

I love how Will not only thoroughly explains the equipment but dives into the details such as wiring, wire size and type, connectors, load center layout, etc… So many others on YT fail to go into this level of detail but we need it!

[@victorthecarguy3126]

Most people who go way back instead of saying D-I-P switches say it as one word "dip". I enjoy all the info you put in videos. I'll make the leap into a n off grid setup someday soon. Thanks

[@CLyon-cc9jp]

Yep, I noticed that, too. Took me a second when he said D-I-P, I thought, "oh, he means dip switches" It's all good, though. Excellent videos!!

[@centerrightproudamerican5727]

Will, The inverters N-G bond relay is static. It is either on or off based on the setting. It does not automatically change with on or off grid. Assuming your setting is 'off' for the bonding relay, your system is fine as long as it is plugged in. (The bond will come from your AC in). If totally off grid and there is no Bonded AC in, then either set the bonding relay to 'on' in one of the inverters or put the bond in your AC combiner box

[@WillProwse]

I just learned and tested that just now. I didn't have the neutral connected with this configuration and you're right. Need to add that to the blueprint

[@john-arvidkibsgard616]

What should the configuration look like if using this in an RV? Where you sometimes are connected to shore AC.

[@centerrightproudamerican5727]

@@john-arvidkibsgard616 These units are not really designed for mobile applications. To make it work for an RV there needs to be some type of external bonding when not plugged into shore power and no bonding when plugged into shore power. I have seen this done with a closed relay: If shore power is available: the relay is energized and opens the relay, turning off the bond. There can be manual NG bond switches but they are too prone to being left in the wrong position. One thing I saw once was someone set up a receptacle in the stowage compartment to plug the shore power plug into when not on shore power. There was no power at the receptacle, but Neutral and ground were tied together so when the cable is stowed, there is an NG bond.

[@gg-gn3re]

when it has the grid to pass through it uses that N-G bond, even when not using the actual grid power, right? So even though it could be using solar/battery all the time, the bonding is going all the way back to where ever the original panel in your house is with that bond

[@intDavid]

@@gg-gn3re yes - when it is tied to grid input, the grid neutral and grounds are connected to the common neutral and ground bus bars inside the inverter that you connect to for your loads, so yeah, the N-G bond is provided by your main panel regardless if the inverter is running the loads or if it is in pass-thru mode.

[@canyahearmenow4]

Perfect setup. No more current on the green wire! Thanks as always Will!

[@4115steve]

Can you make a few videos based on budgets. $500, $1000 budget, $2000 budget, $5,000 budget, and a $10,000 budget. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge you do.

[@webberfan1234]

My budget is $100 lol

[@donlalo7079]

​@webberfan1234 - get you a stationary bike. Some copper wire & 2 used car batteries.

[@erfquake1]

You're describing all these components, rattling off the specs like it's casual conversation for everybody, and I start to glaze over. Then you note how awesome it is that the EG4 is light enough to use wall anchors....as if finding wall studs would somehow be the DIFFICULT part of this whole process. 😅 It's amazing, thank you.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

You really can’t beat these units. They are really nice.

[@tomfairbank4715]

I’m glad my Solar project got delayed slightly. The equipment has gotten so much better

[@bobcole3852]

Expecting mine shortly! I will be using grid and pass through feature. I will add a load center in power shed and extend wires in main panel to new panel and relocate breakers. I assume I would connect neutral and ground wires to the ones in my main panel. Thanks for all you do for the solar community!

[@intDavid]

You are correct - the grid neutral and ground get connected to the same neutral and ground bus bars inside the 6000xp that you connect the output lines to.

[@tjmooney4181]

This is exactly what I plan to do when building off grid systems for friends and family. I plan to use the wallmount powerpro batteries so they are easily stackable also 😉 thanks for the great video

[@lightitrun5209]

Wow. Now I'm really ready for a major upgrade. Thanks Will, your work both on YT and the DIY solar website has been a comforting inspiration since my first 4s12v build. Now all we need is a major break through in battery chemistry regarding storage, weight and environment.

[@MJ-ge6jz]

I was getting ready to buy the Schneider Conext XW PRO 6.8KW Hybrid Inverter/Charger but the power and cost saving of the EG4 6000XP can not be ignored. Plus the added saving of internal component integration saves a lot as well. To support powerful loads like a well pump I am getting two 6000XP as you demonstrated in this video.

[@junkerzn7312]

Also, having two or more units for redundancy, which the 6000XP does very well, is always better than having just one unit, no matter how good it is. That way if something breaks you aren't dead in the water. Things can get expensive with Schneider or Sol-Ark with more than one unit, unfortunately.

[@DoctorSouse]

Thanks for explaining why you did the combined box. After reading your write-up (nice job), I was a little confused about why you would need it or the benefit. You did a good job explaining the benefits of taking this approach and how it all depends on what an individual plans to do with the system.

[@SunInLithium]

You could also use a terminal block to join the inverter inputs and outputs as they already have breakers, but you're layout looks good.

[@TroyWarr1980]

I was wondering about that. What's the advantage of doing it Will's way - just a cleaner look? Or maybe electrical code compliance?

[@coryfrey5040]

I was thinking the same. Could you use some polaris lugs to combine the two interters into a single 4 AWG? My 6500EX system uses a single 60A breaker with a lockout, so migrating to the 6000XP might be difficult if multiple double pole breakers are required in my critical loads panel.

[@intDavid]

@@coryfrey5040 you could do that just fine. I was considering doing the same thing. One nice thing about Will's suggestion though is the easy ability to disconnect individual inverters from the load center when you are needing to do some maintenance or whatnot while the other inverter continues to run the loads. A lot easier and safer than having to disconnect wires from the Polaris lugs under load - but not that big of a deal if you have the option to shut all the inverters down.

[@DanielRichards644]

Whole House Idea, Grid to "Panel 1", Panel 1 is just sets of double pull breakers, one for each inverter to supply Grid power to the Grid Input on each inverter (instead of your plug in thing), Panel 2 The Combiner Box all the Inverters feed into, use main legs on panel 2 as output to existing whole house panel, whole house now routed through inverter array. With some kind of "generator lockout" you could even do a jumper between panel 1 and panel 2 so if you had to take the whole solar array offline you could have a bypass to feed grid power directly from panel 1 to panel 2 and out through panel to to existing house panel. Also this is a much better video then the original version.

[@seanfarley5934]

I have (2) 6000xp's coming today. I'll be running off grid and solar (batteries coming at later time this year). I want to prioritize solar and have grid power when not enough solar. Is your suggestion what I want to do combined with Will's setup?

[@paul.phillips]

This is exactly what I want to replace my Growatt 8K splitphase LF transformer with, 2x of these 6k's. One of these days, thanks for the video!

[@joetripp123]

I like this setup. Best I've seen so far on these inverters. However I haven't been able to find a 20 space Square D load center for $45 (ref 3:22). Cheapest I found was about $70.

[@joecool509]

this is exactly what I need for my shop. Thanks! run welders, CNC etc as a hobby. no pulling power 300ft to the back of my property. I think 6ga is small going to our load center.

[@NoBSBatteries]

I like the load center/ combiner box idea. Simple but effective.

[@witness1449]

I was hoping that EG4 would come out with an improved 6KW unit and these will be my upgrades from my 2 Growatt 3Kw units powering my system. In September I upgraded my battery to a EG4 13KW power wall and it is working flawlessly. These are more practical and affordable, plus easier to expand if needed. I'm glad I waiting for these much improved units to be available. Hopefully these will have a long lifespan and durability. The built-in breakers and wire management are a great addition and makes for a clean installation. My original system has worked extremely well, but I definitely want to expand and power my whole house now. 3 of these would be less expensive than the 18kw and if 1 fails you would still have power available and you don't have to buy 2 at a time. Just seems a better choice unless you need an exterior installation which most won't need. I already have a separate load center and hooked these up would be extremely easy and clean up the wiring. Will, thanks for the video and update, these units ROCK!

[@stevenfrazier8939]

The EG4 18K PV only uses 70 watts of stand by power for 12,000 watts and it can handle 8,000 watts of load imbalance per leg.

[@corcorandm]

@12:30 looks like the all in one is set for lead acid P.s. thanks for remaking this video

[@joshjuzwik4787]

I’m also wondering about the lead acid setting 🤔

[@WillProwse]

@@joshjuzwik4787 I hate battery comms. Just run it with communication if you have it

[@mikerilling2745]

It would be really nice if you would talk about the actual solar panels that you recommend I’ve never seen you talk about which panel for off grid or four RV rooftop use

[@rudischoors3874]

This looks like a perfect solution for off-grid solar-powering my garage for charging my Tesla model Y. Apart from the inverter I still have to see what solar panels to use and batteries.

[@alvinhyman6838]

This is exactly what I plan to use to power my new home when it's finished.

[@TyroneDamShewlaces]

When Will did a pre-release of this system last week, I (and others) noticed a ground/neutral bond issue and looks like he fixed that up nicely. Will explained things about this system a lot more clearly this time around anyway so Kudos on that. Awesome job. For instance, one thing he didn't mention last time was that these 6000XP have software controlled ground/neutral bond. I never even knew that kind of thing existed. So cool! I think that a video focusing in on this feature would make an interesting content subject on it's own - maybe compare regular physical bond with how this one works and figure out some kind of demo/test to show what's going on with it. Neat stuff.

[@CherokezPittman]

Thank you for sharing your insights on Will's video! It's great to see improvements being made in the off-grid solar systems. I agree with you that a video focusing on the software controlled ground/neutral bond feature would be interesting. By the way, have you heard about the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile and powerful backup power solution perfect for outdoor enthusiasts like us. Check it out if you're in need of reliable power on your camping trips or for home backup!

[@intDavid]

Keep in mind that Will was mistaken in the video about the internal N-G bond setting in the inverter being dynamic. It is not - you either enable it or disable it and it does not change when running loads off the inverter or when it switches to pass-thru mode. If you are tying it to the grid input, then the N-G bond is provided by the main panel and should be disabled in the inverters. If you aren't connecting it to grid input, then it should either be enabled in the inverter, or physically done in the loads panel.

[@joetripp123]

@@intDavidthanks for mentioning this. Also per the manual the 6000XP's default has the N-G bond set to Enabled so if set up with grid pass through that needs to be Disabled as you said. How would you configure this when a critical load panel is set up and the hots and neutrals both are moved from the main panel to the critical load panel? In a grid outage situation would the physical tied main panel N-G bond be ok? Don't want to send errant power down the line but it should return to source (the 6000XP). I guess that also raises the question if the neutrals even need to be moved to the critical load panel.

[@JeffMcJunkin]

Welcome back to this video!

[@mrscoot1]

You said it , I missed it 1st time, wire like a subpanel! You are the man Will! Thanks for the great information and training!

[@fishhuntadventure]

5:30 Oversizing battery cables is smart in so many ways and isn’t crazy more expensive than using minimal cables. Just a few pizzas.

[@midwestworkshop2863]

Glad to see more of these, think this model might be a good fit.

[@Valor4Christ]

I have one of these units and its enough to power my whole house.

[@jsauerii]

One cloths dryer will overload it quick lol

[@eda7505]

You are my expert - when you speak about it I trust your ability to keep me safe. Do I know what your are talking about - that is a no. What this means is I can hire a professional to make it happen per your video. The point for me is that I feel confident in what is being done on my house....Thanks.

[@WillProwse]

Awesome :)

[@MikeSessler]

Thanks for a great explanation of these units, Will. Really makes me want to replace my older EG4 3000 Yellow unit with one of these... The only think I think you missed is that you do need an actual ground rod for the ground circuit. Some code jurisdictions will require 2 ground rods, a specified distance apart. Right now the way your system appears to be installed, the only time you have a true safety ground is when you are connected to the grid. If you went PV/Battery only, the ground would be floating, and is not a true safety ground. That has the potential to lead to a shock hazard if any of the metal cases of attached equipment somehow become energized. Perhaps you do have a ground set up and just didn't mention it, but I thought I'd put it out there. Great work as always!

[@malcolmkegel3905]

I’m also curious about the ground could you elaborate please thanks

[@electricandlspower]

DO IT YOURSELF. I love it.

[@kennethlee4486]

Thank you so much for your channel, you seem to be the only one on youtube that know what he is talking about, thanks again

[@Happinessinlove777]

Big fan of your, I just ordered from signature solar, they are now 2- 3 months out for lead times right now

[@workski2]

Will, you always have very informative, easy to understand videos. I have been watching you for years, all the way back to the RV days. Great to see you are still at it.

[@patrickkenny2077]

Will, one comment on the checking voltage step. A better procedure is to first confirm phasing with the combiner breakers open to ensure there is no voltage between each inverter on the same line. You can confirm overall voltage in that step as well, then once everything is confirmed to be per spec close the breakers. (I wish you wore electrical gloves when doing these things to remind people of the importance... but that is just me.)

[@panman185]

Will i appreciate all the hard work and knowledge who have put into these builds and videos. I have plans to build a home totally off grid in the mountains. We have a family farm.

[@wesbutler8289]

I've got a single one supposedly showing up on Wednesday, replacing my single EG4 3000EHV. Can't wait to get it hooked up!

[@intDavid]

That's exactly what I did - replaced my 3000EHV with the 6000xp. I must say I am really happy with the additional power and the decreased noise levels. :)

[@williamirizarry1113]

Recommended Conductor size for Grid and load in the manual is 8 gauge. I used 8/3 wire.

[@MrJar1rad]

Does 8/3 change the breaker size or are you still using a 40 A ?

[@williamirizarry1113]

@@MrJar1rad 40A double pole breaker.

[@TimRoyalPastortim]

Very interested in your take on the EP Cube. Learn so much from you, Will!

[@adeletanner2262]

Hi Will. I've been a ham radio operator since 66 and got involved with PV in the 70's. It's unfortunate, but the two typically don't mix, owing to the bad RF Hash (noise) produced by many PV subsystems, inverters being the biggest culprits. The hash makes receiver reception nearly impossible. That said, please consider incorporating some spectrum analysis of the equipment you are reviewing, as PV and battery backup systems are typically used during emergencies (by most), when communication with the outside world is of importance. Best regards.

[@LivingFree4All]

Will's videos are so good, I download them and keep them on my Pepper backup SSDs protected in my EMP vault, so I could watch them if things go ... Thanks Wil!

[@DougAkers-gi1fg]

It would be cool if you had a super bowl commercial. Really good video. Great content!

[@petersamios5409]

Once again - great presentation and explanation. 1 quick question - given that it is 6000 watts - I would have thought that breaker would have been for 50 amps instead of 40 amps. What is the reason for the reduction?

[@danielking2944]

40 amp at 240 volt is 9.6KW .So the 40 amp breaker should easily handle surges.

[@mujgy]

So I have a bit of an unusual setup on our farm. The utility power is one 200amp meter and split 3 ways to 3 structures with 200amp panels each. Typical load is 6kw-10kw much of which is lighting. And sometimes welder, air compressor and AC. I already have 8.4kw of panels purchased. The though I had would be 3-4 6000xp units connected similar to this setup. Will have a small shed to house the inverters and eventually batteries. Would run incoming utility power to the power shed, branch out to each, then recombine, and return to the main disconnect. Now, as far as grid load transfer the manual isn't very clear on how it supplements power if PV or Battery isn't enough. Or is it basically automatic? Thanks and keep up the great content!

[@nickolasrobbers8170]

Love your content , I like how you explain everything and eezzz my stress of going solar for my RV ❤

[@mwreyf1]

It would be great to see how to set up a system that would include wiring steps from house MAIN panel to an automatic transfer switch (critical loads) then to (2) 6000XP's (instead of using multiple "manual" breaker boxes). Also being able to use A/C passthru when batteries/solar/generator aren't available. And also be able to auto-start the generator. Can the 6000EX do all of those things?

[@LivingFree4All]

Agreed I would like to know what Will thinks about that too

[@bobseguin2195]

Im turning into a solar junkie........my next project.........thanks Will......

[@josephcormier5974]

Thank you will I have been learning much from you keep up the amazing work six stars

[@deeprootslandscaping4499]

Great videos Will. This will be my set up for our off grid home. Only with PYTES battery's

[@norsk54472]

SWEET product and great install example. love it

[@chattphotos]

Very informative, thanks Will! I appreciate the segment for paralleling the inverters because I've been trying to figure out how it's done properly Still at the crossroads on how to wire up my house with either outdoor inverters or indoor

[@P_RO_]

If you put your gear inside on an exterior wall where you would put external inverters (or vice-versa) changing things later will be easy.

[@waynehartlerode8936]

Seems like some good upgrades! I wish they would have improved the generator capability. My EG4 6500's just bit the dust after only two months in operation! I have to send them back and looks like I'll be getting these as a replacement. I really hope they are a bit more plug and play than the 6500 models. I had so many issues with programming them and firmware. Apparently they have an upgrade program now you can trade in your old 6500 unit for the xp. It seems like they were having a lot of issues with them.

[@travelfeet]

I appreciate the multiple integrated functions: disconnect, AC and DC breakers with arc and ground fault built in etc... As a counterpoint, what is the likelihood that one of these individual components fails overtime and needs to be replaced? Does this type of integrated build make repair more difficult or expensive in comparison to replacing an isolated component? Thinking long term, dedicated components are more expensive, but perhaps better for repairability and reliability? What do you think?

[@robbie31580]

Excellent video Will!

[@joetripp123]

I have a few wire questions... *You said 2/0 for the batteries is overkill, what size is "right size" appropriate, 1AWG? 400Ah of batteries but the 6000XP can only pull 125A. *What size lug is used on the EG4 6000XP and what size is on the EG4 LL batteries? *And you used 8AWG stranded THHN wire for the 240v grid connections? 6AWG after they combine. *Looks like you used 10AWG stranded ground wires? Thanks Will!

[@jamesbeaudin1939]

I see you have kept the Neutral and the ground separate in the Combiner Box and the Load Box (similar as you state is done for a Subpanel). But I do not see any copper wires attached to those ground bars that wires them to an earth ground (copper rod driven into the ground)!

[@RidgeLife]

My question exactly?!?

[@S2KPHD]

@13:25 I made it through the video understanding everything you said.... now if I can only muster up the courage to put it into practice. 99% understanding 1% guts to connect the system. :(

[@WillProwse]

You can do it 😁👍🏻

[@haywardkong1213]

Yeah I'll be doing it for sure... I'm all for DIY. Just got the EG4 Heat pump mini split 12k btu 28.5 Seer2 will be installing in 2-3 weeks... or a least when it's not raining. In the process of getting the solar panels and decide on what mounts for a shingle roof... and then apply for permit .... only installing 8x 450w panels to start with.. since in a year or two I might redo the roof since it's over 25 years old now. .... and go for metal roof with standing beams... Busy next summer since I'll be redoing the roof of my parents house... haven't decided shingles or metal since their roof is a little more complex .... my roof is very simple traditional roof.

[@notmyname9876]

the breakers are there to protect the wires. you did mention that doing it this way won't protect the wires and that if you overload the system, the 100amp breakers will not protect the wires and they will overheat. I don't understand why you didn't swap out the 100amp breakers for a size that would protect those wires, or just put in wires that would be fine with 100amps. Yes, those would be thick wires, but you put one load center right next to the other, so it would be a very short run over 1/0 copper.

[@matthewborne7659]

Will, Just so I understand....your combiner box and electric panel are completely separated from your Grid panel? I could add this to my home and move entire circuits to this distribution center one by one as my system expands?

[@JR-xw5dk]

When used as an off grid system, it would be nice if the grid breaker could be used as a dump load. Even better if using multiple units, use one as input from another inverter (maybe one with high idle consumption that you do not want to run overnight) and another one as a dump load. Just a thought.

[@fullsleevetats]

Great breakdown! The biggest concern I would have, is finding an electrician who is knowledgeable enough to correctly set up the panels, without destroying the inverters in the process, creating a ground loop or not fully understanding the use cases of the various layered breaker approach. Many to most electricians I've come across will have absolutely no idea of the complexities involved in setting these up, and will end up under-configuring them, or creating an outright dangerous panel setup. How do you find the "right" electrician for a job like this?

[@patrickchen623]

This is the video I've been waiting for. Cost effective semi-offGrid with grid as backup. thank you

[@intDavid]

Great video as always Will. One thing - the manual states that they DO still recommend DC breakers for your PV inputs, even though the unit does have the built-in PV cutoff.

[@earthspirit8286]

Thank you Will, Was able to build an off grid skooly using what I learned from you. I am grateful. Question?! Have you seen that TechBoxReview KZbin video posted a month ago ( No Battery solar system, under 100 Dollars ? ) I'm thinking false advertising

[@briankeithwood]

What would a system like this cost? Love to see a breakdown of a minimum to get started, build to run a small cabin, scaled to go off grid

[@mrscoot1]

Your combinary box is wired like a sub-panel , where neutral and grounds are seperated this is what electrical code requires , so saying you wire it like a sub panel, may help some people know exactly what you are saying! Code requires 1st panel after your meter "main panel" to have nuetral and grounds together (that would be grid power, the combiner box for the units would be wired and considered a subpanel which must have grounds and neutrals seperate and EGC (Equiptment grounding conductor) or 4th wire green wire. In the grid the EGC is designed to be a return path back to source or main panel! Just thought maybe saying you wire it like a subpanel may help some people!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

The dynamic ground neutral bonding does not happen by default. I needed to enable setting 26 for it to work.... for my EV car charger install.

[@eatttherich4653]

Hello Will. Huge fan. Hoping to get your opinion on high vs low frequency inverters. Been reading comments about high being short lived garbage and low is the way to go. Even EG4 is high? Explaining the pluses and minuses seems like it would be worth a video. Keep up the good work!

[@murraygingrich9926]

I would recommend that anyone wanting solar to do your home or business. I've been in the solar and renewable energy business for over two decades.

[@MarkSmith-Uzor]

Please when are you testing the limits of that EG4 powerpro 14.3kwh battery with the 18k EG4 inverter 😊

[@richardthames661]

Is there any way to get a diagram of this setup

[@antonyllamocca1635]

I love it!!🎉🎉 Wish you can make a set up like this for the 18k hybrid inverter..

[@natebjennb]

I already picked up a victron for my rv but I may need to change it up

[@hippiewithacowboyhat]

What combiner box are you using ? Can't find it. Would really be helpful to list outsourced parts in descriptions. I understand the basics of keeping neutral and ground seperated except for the man grid panel, and expect you simply removed the green screw from the neutral /ground connected bars to free the metal box, then added a bar directly to the metal box for ground, but an explanation of that would have been helpful for anyone with less than my own basic understanding. Not criticising, because you've taught me so much, just a friendly suggestion.

[@WillProwse]

It's all in the description. There is a link for a schematic and parts list

[@BluecollarRVliving]

First of all, I would like to start off by saying thank you for all the knowledge that you put out there to everybody. I got my E4 6000 XP and December per your video and other peoples recommendations 10,000 W of solar is recommended so that’s what I have. All of my parameters are correct and not exceeding the limits Every single time my unit gets close to 7000 W of PV input the unit starts screaming. Can you do a video bringing in that much Solar according to signature Solar this is a problem that they are starting to see and do not know what the problem is. They are sending me out a new unit , thank you for your help if you can

[@AdorableDeplorable1]

Havre you used a string calculator to see what your voltage will be at the high and low temperatures your array will encounter? The internal MPP's are not happy with string voltages higher than 480v. This can occur with a series string of 10 panels that are 40v Voc each (400v Voc) at 70 degrees F, when the temperature drops to 30 degrees F. The MPP's will also clip at current above 25A. They like 17A best. This is all in the manual, by the way.

[@rickgrant5844]

Hello, Will I’m Rick been watching you for a long time since you were in your Winnebago starting out with the Renee Parts and all the other different components. I find you very informative and very intellectually telling about the equipment and not like you’re talking to children like you’re talking to adults and I appreciate that I’ve had to watch some of your videos a couple of times just to get to understand I’ve even looked up meanings of different things, and other schematics of other things, so I understood more about what you were saying I’m still confused about a few things but you know it’s 63 and you don’t grasp it all right awaykeep up with what you’re doing. I really enjoy your content and you’re very informative but I’d like to wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new year.

[@regenerativelifewayne]

The Solar 🐐 my # 1 go to for everything solar

[@dangoras9152]

Must be nice to have 2 im still waiting for to come.. Good information brother I may wire mine like this cause I just wired a new 200amp panel I think it would work with a main breaker panel send it to my main lug panel.....

[@pvanderwall3473]

Oh yes, definitely like this whole setup!

[@robertkosovich1232]

Thanks Again, Will, for all that you do!

[@Billie-solarproduct]

Set up very nice! I have a off grid solar inverter too, and it 's 6000W inverter.

[@markmazza135]

Will: I love what you did. I'm considering a second 6000xp. I have 2 PowerPro batteries hooked up to my single 6000xp and I'm not sure how to hook up a second inverter to my existing battery set up? Where can I find out how to do this?

[@JBoy3210]

Hey Will, can you show us off gridders how to wire a stand-by generator to these that auto starts on low voltage!?

[@k5edd128]

Smiling! Got to take a break my brain is starting to hurt. Big Smile!

[@cschillerun]

Hi Will, it looks like the way you have the inverters paralleled in the video, that if you were to go completely off-grid with no utility availability, it would not be a problem to run with 1 inverter most of the time, then fire up the second one only for large, scheduled loads, like charging the car. The point of turning one of the inverters off would be to minimize idle draw during the darkest months of winter. Can you please confirm? Great stuff. Hugely helpful.

[@stormfarmhouse9211]

Exactly what I am looking for for my shop Thanks

[@gormak100]

Hi Will, its amazing how quickly the technology is moving forward I have been living off grid for 3 yrs now with an older 3 panel x 450w in series to feed a basic 60A srne controller with 2 x 12v x 200ah gel batteries and a 4kva 24v snadi invertor. I live in the Philippines retired n learning about life off grid The 2 batteries were failing so I just bought 2 x 12.8v x 280ah lithium lifepo4 batteries. Gentai brand they seem well made with built in bms Its working but I'm confused about allowing for future upgrades as I regularly run out of power when using grinders and saws etc. Without overspending whats a good way to future proof my little system? I'm planning to add another 3 x 450w solar panels and get additional 2 x 12v x 280ah batteries And so here's where i need some experience and friendly advice Am I better to change my inverter to a 48v and say make it 6or 8kva Or would I need more than a 6 array of 450w panels to power it? What's the way to keep what I have working and have easy time when funds are ready for upgrading to a higher kva invertor? Sorry if its long winded . Look forward to any suggestions

[@williamirizarry1113]

Willpower did it again. Thanks!

[@davidsalvador8989]

It seems interesting, It would also be cool to see a simple 1 inverter setup. Straight into 1 panel I would guess?

[@Paul-hg9zs]

In South Africa there's a 20kwh Fivestar branded lithium going for roughly $3000 , I would love to see any tests done on it, it's sold by Filicity solar in China

[@christophermallory2222]

Could you do a video that integrates a whole home backup generator with battery backup that provides smooth transfer of power between grid and generator without the power flickering off when it's transferred between the grid and the generator.

[@cameronalexander359]

Just what I wanted to know. Thanks Will.

[@nialldivers]

Is it possible to set up a dump load on these units? I want to have a water heater connected to use excess power when batteries are full.

[@williamirizarry1113]

Exactly the video I was looking for. Two thumbs 👍🏻.