[HOW TO] Build Wooden Garage Ramps for Vehicle Maintenance

[@fondupot]

Be sure to check out the description box for all the misc. materials you will need to build these ramps. Also check out my new Amazon Store Front! www.amazon.com/shop/fondupotsgarage

[@d.b.cooper7290]

I like how they store neatly with no wasted space

[@fondupot]

Thanks yea. That’s one of the goals with building them like this.

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

I store mine on their ends.

[@russlayton3166]

Great looking ramps! They might be heavy, but they won’t squirrel around when you pull up on them or cave in. I’d take the extra weight for the piece of mind any day.

[@fondupot]

For sure they’ve come in handy a lot!

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

And peace of mind.

[@kirbharp2157]

This makes my day! I can't believe I've never thought of this at all. lol Enjoyed your video. TY!

[@fondupot]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

[@percyvicknair999]

I always worried about ramps caving in, this is as safe as you can get. I always preferred solid wood for stands and ramps. Good video, good idea, safety first!

[@fondupot]

Yea same! Always safety first. Thanks for watching.

[@transam790]

These work great for leveling out a travel trailer/camper as well.

[@fondupot]

Absolutely. Anything with wheels!

[@russelllocke3367]

Wonderful design, this actually works for my front scoop (excellent clearance). Cost was about $35-40, took about 1 hour to make (I have an electric miter box, so by hand it might take longer). A bit tricky to line up but I assume that would be with any ramp. Awesome video!

[@fondupot]

Cheers thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed the video. I still have my ramps and use them!

[@mikej6544]

Now that’s a great saw.

[@Group_Anonymous]

After the Great Depression, In 1928, Skil released the Model E Skilsaw, the first generation saw with a worm drive.

[@kCI251]

This is a great use of scrap wood.

[@catfish24]

Put two small ridged wheels on the end so you can roll them to where you need them and a handle on the outside of each ramp will help to place them and to pull them out of the way.

[@fondupot]

Good idea. 👍🏻

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

Good job. I made similar ones 14 yrs ago and they've worked great. I made mine a bit shorter, with less lumber, so they're easier to move around, but they're still heavy. Haven't had any issues with them sliding around, etc, but I don't have a polished/epoxy garage floor like some people do.

[@raymondshartrand2417]

I built similar ramps out of 2 x 8 for my Corvette. They work great, but they did want to slip a little on the bare concrete. So I turned them over and roughed up the 4 foot bottom plate with unaggressive grinding wheel,after that they worked great.

[@fondupot]

Cool. Thanks for sharing.

[@Ericj3k]

Built these today for my dropped 2018 Audi A6, worked perfectly thank you!

[@fondupot]

Glad to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jameswhite1319]

Thanks for sharing

[@fondupot]

Thanks for watching

[@stueygewy]

Great idea and design! What is the background music song-name? Pretty catchy :)

[@stueygewy]

Just found it! For anyone interested, it's: "Always Dreaming - Same Town Forever | Eyal Raz"

[@fondupot]

@@stueygewy Thanks yea, its a free song I found somewhere a while ago.

[@jacobriaz1934]

wow...good job!

[@fondupot]

Thanks! And thanks for watching!

[@paruggeri]

Are the boards treated lumber

[@fondupot]

No.

[@mpcp27]

Thanks for the video and the info. Was wondering how heavy is one of the ramps?

[@fondupot]

You’re welcome. I’m actually not sure. They’re pretty heavy. But I’ve never weighed them. Maybe 60-80 lbs each

[@mpcp27]

@@fondupot .. Thanks... That's about where i would have put them.

[@fondupot]

You’re welcome.

[@dr.emilschaffhausen4683]

I'm thinking I will make the same type of ramp but make them so that once the tires are on the tallest section the rest can separate. Essentially two ramps will become four pieces held together by large u-bolts. Once the car is at the top remove U bolts and slide away extensions.

[@fondupot]

I have considered modifying my ramps to do something just like that. Its a good idea, and would give more room to work under the vehicle when ramped up. Good thinking! Thanks for watching.

[@dr.emilschaffhausen4683]

@@fondupot The room to work is the biggest reason I'm considering doing it this way. Making a solid but removable connection between the two sections is what I have to work out.

[@fondupot]

You could also make them sort of link together with a pair of pegs.

[@DudeOfTheWeek]

​@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 did you build these? Do you have a video to how you solved the connectivity problem?

[@dr.emilschaffhausen4683]

@@DudeOfTheWeek Sorry for the late reply. I did build them, and I used large U-bolts, but ones with more squared corners rather than a 'U' shape. Picked up the bolts from a local big box store. I drilled matching holes on both sides of the ramps so that they're connected on both sides, one bolt each side for all four ramp halves. 8 bolts total. Works perfectly, and once the vehicle is on the tall ramp section I take out the bolts and remove the long, shorter pieces so there is more room to work.

[@FrontierPreppers]

Thank you, great video👍

[@fondupot]

Thanks for watching!

[@krasavec3829]

Awesome, thanks 👍

[@fondupot]

No problem 👍

[@marvingordon1108]

At 1:25ish the length of the ramps is said to be 6 1/2 feet long. I assume that was in error? The longest cut is 48" which is 4 feet.

[@fondupot]

Not an error. Use the diagram in the video description for help.

[@marvingordon1108]

@@fondupot DOH! How did I miss that, the 18" cut left the 6 1/2 foot piece...my bad.

[@fondupot]

All good 👍🏻

[@ponchotran9004]

Is it practical to use a floor jack to lift the truck the 8 inches and slide the ramps underneath? Or does this defeat the purpose of building these ramps?

[@fondupot]

Yes and no. If you have a Low clearance vehicle the ramps are made so you can drive up them. The ramps are quite heavy so it could be difficult to slide them into position once you raise the truck.

[@mediumsizedm]

GM makes an adaptor to lift your truck up enough that you dont need those ramps to change your oil. Plus it adds more passenger, towing, and storage capacity to the vehicle.... and it keeps your tools dry and safe. It's called a "chevrolet express". Or GMC Savana

[@fondupot]

….ok….

[@lovemytechy]

I would do 30 degree angle cuts or less for a smoother transition as car goes up. however I am looking for a 4 wheels up ramp idea

[@fondupot]

Sure you can do that.

[@lovemytechy]

also to make them lighter you can use legs instead of one solid piece on the ramp part, for the part that the car stay on you can do all solid, but the ramp is just t get you up there and does not need to be all solid

[@z1ngsz0ng]

Genius 👍

[@jasonjason4974]

Greetings I am looking to build a 3 tier ramp for a Toyota sienna mini van, what size should each piece be length wise?

[@fondupot]

Simply use the top three pieces in my dimensional drawing linked in the description.

[@Louie12673]

Can I start attaching the boards starting with the longest on the bottom then build upward?

[@fondupot]

You can. I just didn’t want any exposed screw heads on top. That’s why I did it the other way.

[@johnnyappleseed9568]

Will this build work for low profile cars

[@fondupot]

It’s really going to depend on the car. But you can always extend the levels so the incline is more gradual.

[@wonderonegaz]

I would have reduced each step to the size of the contact patch of a tyre, which is no more than about 6-8". This way, the ramps would have been considerably lighter and smaller. Otherwise, good video! A proper table sliding mitre saw would have made the job much quicker!

[@fondupot]

Not a bad idea! Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching.

[@drippingwax]

The narrower the ramp, the smaller the margin of error. I wouldn't expect these ramps to move under the vehicle, but commercial ones sure do! :)

[@dvader3000]

I made mine very similar to yours. But when i tried them they slip,what can i add to prevent that from happening?

[@fondupot]

See mine are very heavy. So they don’t slip. But you can try adding some rubber pads to the underside. That might help it grip better.

[@becbec6900]

I sprayed the underside of mine with rubberized undercoating.

[@fondupot]

That’s a good idea.

[@scottgibson3563]

I built your ramps as your video shows. Problem is when approaching they slid. Any suggestions on what to put on the bottom to keep from slidding?

[@fondupot]

Interesting, i havent had that problem. You can buy some rubber sheeting from a hardware store and attach it to the bottom. That should help give the ramps a little more grip when driving up on them.

[@scottgibson3563]

@@fondupot I used preschool rubber flooring like you see that locks together. Now my garage floor is very smooth. So I am at loss what to do next.

[@nadazilch8169]

The bevel is too steep at 45. Make them at about 30. Your tire will catch it. If still slides make it 25 etc.

[@fondupot]

That’s a good idea too. And you’d only need to do the first one. Because once the tires are on the ramps they won’t move anymore.

[@mpcp27]

@@scottgibson3563 . Yeah i am having the same issue. The garage floor is a very smooth concrete and even though the ramps are heavy they slide and what's worse is the bottom board has warped too. Zilch suggested changing the angle to 30 or less but once you've cut the board to 45, the only way to reduce without losing length is to use hand tools or a planer/grinder. In my situation, the problem only seems to happen when i try to reverse on the board.. It still slips even though i push the ramp under the tire...i think maybe reducing the angle with the grinder might work. I saw somebody recommended using grip tape on the ramp 45 deg .. but i think that might get pulled off with use... What solution did you come up with?

[@mariosemmler7963]

We can build ramps for MiniMe

[@BigFrogs4x4]

Can i suggest some anti slip tape added? Might help if tire are wet. Stick it on and also staple it. Also 2 cheap HF casters on the thick end just resting on the floor a hand hole or strap on the other end to pick it up. Pick the small end up and the casters will then level onto the floor to roll around. Nice job and better than most plastic or metal ones that can be bought.

[@fondupot]

Good ideas. Thanks for watching!

[@BigFrogs4x4]

@@fondupot subscribed as well. Good stuff

[@fondupot]

Thanks! Likewise been subbed to your channel for a few weeks!

[@garycarroll9447]

Add wheels if too heavy

[@fondupot]

Maybe one day, good thought. Thanks for watching.

[@tima.478]

Made these using 2x10's and they weight 82.5 lbs each!

[@fondupot]

Yea! They’re heavy. But solid!!

[@tima.478]

@@fondupot Yeah, no worries with these....thanks for the build plan!

[@fondupot]

You’re welcome glad you built them. Thanks for watching.

[@tima.478]

@@fondupot thank YOU!

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

I made mine shorter and they weigh significantly less than that.

[@richk141]

Did you use pressure treated lumber? If so, pt can be a lot heavier, at least until it dries out some. Sometimes they don't even dry out that much. Regular construction grade lumber can be lighter.

[@fondupot]

I don't think I used pressure treatd. the 2x10's are just heavy!

[@ronniewilcox3976]

The heavy weight would be an issue

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

The weight is a plus, they won't collapse and they don't move when trying to drive up them. Use a small dolly to move them if you have strength/mobility issues.

[@UtubeUser009]

So, can you guide me? 48", 40", 32", 24", 16"?

[@fondupot]

Check video description for some plans

[@UtubeUser009]

@@fondupot confusing. You have 48”, 33.5”, and one more number. That’s a total of 3 stacks.

[@fondupot]

Cut 1 8’ piece at 48”. Cut 2 8’ pieces at 33.5” and cut 2 at 18”. There’s an Imgur link with the diagram. It’s pretty clear. You’ll have a total of 10 pieces when you’re done. Then just stack them and screw together.

[@knobbiesshreaded3137]

You can save some weight by making your first base layer the same length as the top. Go up the ramp...when you hit the stop the ramp will have levered up to level. I use this on a three board 4 1/2" ramp. Top and bottom boards are short. Middle long. my four ramps weigh much less than your two! Not as high however. I may try to add another shorty underneath to get to 6". Always use 4WD when climbing the ramps! You don't want to shoot a ramp across the road...

[@Ru556]

You have, quote: "5 pieces of 2x10 for each ramp, giving a height of 7.5 inches". That doesn't quite add up. :) However, I was scouting around to find an optimal height for these things. 10" is plenty, I'd say. Another video suggests 6" - but that's bordering on useless, I'd say.

[@fondupot]

My math is fine. A 2x10 is actually only 1.5”x9.25” 5 pieces stacked at 1.5” is 7.5” Google nominal lumber dimensions.

[@Ru556]

I understand. You are quoting nominal timber size. All is clear. :) It shows I listened, (and thought over), you video carefully. :) For a job like this, I'd go for 'sawn', or unprepared. Hey! You'd only need 4 pieces then. :)

[@fondupot]

@@Ru556 Yes, you could use full dimensional lumber, but I don't know any of the home stores near me that sell it. Thanks for watching!

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

The height of these ramps is fine for doing oil changes and other minor work under most vehicles. I've used them on everything from a Honda Fit, to an SUV, light truck and Mercedes sedan. Makes changing the oil safe and easy.

[@juans.6974]

Wowww👍😮

[@fondupot]

Thanks for watching!

[@amneziaxeaster-gaming382]

Making them shorter would make them lighter and for your truck a bit steeper would not make a big difference because it's already pretty high

[@fondupot]

Yea but if they’re lighter they tend to slide When trying to drive up them.

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

Longer is better as they are more versatile for lower cars. I've used mine for my S-Class, my Z4 and our Mazda2 and Honda Fit. Put rubber wheels/casters on the end if you want to move them around with ease.

[@haroonmed9959]

The Best of all because no need of more power of the engine (car)