How to - CALIFORNIA PATCH vs TEXAS DRYWALL PATCH

You can see two different style drywall repairs in this video, the California style patch completed without power tools and the Texas style drywall patch that uses power tools. What is your preferred method?

[@jamesmchugo9422]

Your technique is different, but nice video. I’ve used both systems to patch, never knew the strapped patch was called a Texas patch. Both systems work equally well. My rule of thumb, if the hole is smaller than 6 inches, California patch all the way. Larger than 6 inches back strap it, Texas patch. Couple things I would have done differently, one I would have used 20 minute hot mud to set both patches. First, it’s stronger. Second, within an hour you can apply you top coat. Also, to help adhesion add some Elmore’s Glue to the plaster about a table spoon to a pound or so of mud. Gives you better adherence to the painted surfaces. I’m also not a fan of sanding, so I wouldn’t have left all those high spots and ridges on the surface. Depending on how well the patch set the next coat could the top coat, but I find these type of patches are a three step finish. When it comes to sanding, I always put a light close to wall from the direction the light is most likely to shine in on the wall. That way as you sand you can see all the high and low spots, the shades cast by the light will help you stop over sanding. The second coat. For the second coat I tend to use hot mud, time is a big factor, plus hot mud sets and cures so much faster. Before you try and apply the finish coat allow at least 12 hours, 24 hours would be better for the base coats to completely cure and dry, then apply your finish coat. For the finish coat I’ll use finishing plaster just because it’s easier to get a flaw free finish and it excepts paint better. Couple of criticism issues I have. I would have liked to have seen you repair the holes in the insulation and vapor barrier, I know this was a video for plaster repair, but fixing issues in the insulation is part of the repair. And anytime your painting over fresh plaster, always prime it first to avoid the spot from the patch. If you don’t that patch will scream at you after the paint has fully dried because the texture will be different. All and all, good video.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks for watching

[@mg5454]

It's not called the California or Texan way, he's just a Conservative Texan trying to show he's smart-a$$, hopefully, he's not freezing in the winter while Rafael is vacationing in Cancun again...

[@webman1956]

@@mg5454 😆

[@lordhelps1]

Dude, make your own video. LOL

[@wintermute-]

@@mg5454 Wow, you got trolled and triggered all at the same time then showed your hate because of a drywall video. Not your best moment. lol

[@maretranquillity]

I've never heard the "California" name for that first patch method but I've only worked in the Pacific Northwest and that kind of patch was a "monkey patch." I also had to smile to see you using a corded drill with a keyed chuck, I have an old Skil that I've been using for decades. Good video, thanks.

[@douglashill7059]

I teched up many years ago and got the cordless tools, but they no longer hold a charge, good ole reliable corded tool is may fav

[@mudlick8186]

While I've done my share of "blowout" patches, I've never understood why anyone would do several in the same area instead of just cutting out the whole area and fix it in one piece and make the taping so much easier, not to mention having actual mechanical connection for the drywall.

[@gerhardschemel3565]

You do realize he is doing two different types for demonstrating

[@ivaneatoniii5025]

The reason why you do not do that is it is not a natural seam. It is a fixed seam, An your having to build compound up to cover it, and the more compound the more of a unatrual hump you have to feather in to get it to blend. The larger the repair the large of a area you must feather in, and forget it if you have natural light from say a window facing towards the sun.. It will show every time. I would not patch any patches the way this guy does, He is not wrong, it can be done this way, BUT IT IS NOT THE BEST WAY, Make a hotpatch, The hotpatch you cut out only the area of damage and square it off, place 2 boards behind the hole in the wall, screw into the wall into the wood strips, then screw into the hotpatch, the hotpatch is made by taking a hole lets say that is 3x3 inches so you take a 5x5 area of sheetrock, and then trace the hole almost exactly to fit perfect leaving the front of the paper on the patch of the drywall sheet, and use it for taping. I know he shows something close to this, but he made it way to large and he is not a finisher.. But a guy who tries to do it all, nothing wrong with that, but if you want a drywall A1 finisher, you go to the guy who does this every day for 30 yrs.. He doesnt even hang but on rare side jobs, all he does is finish. Which Is what i did for years before I opened another type of business and got out of construction.

[@bruceforsman4812]

I lived in CA and yes used that patch but NEVER that big. Like outlet-sized holes. Never hear of a stick patch called Texas, happen to live in Texas now. The only advantage of mesh is on less coat if hot mudding. Using 5 minute can have that paintable in half hour.

[@douglashill7059]

Bruce, here is a TX patch painted in one hour using 5 minute kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3_WdGZ4jrekntU

[@zorr6271]

I don't know who told you one was Texas and the other California, but I have been patching drywall like the patch on the left for over 35 years, and I live in Texas. We call it a hot patch. The one on the right I learned in High School in NH. Almost 50 years ago.

[@douglashill7059]

Zorr, maybe some political satire

[@chefgiovanni]

Nice work and thanks for sharing the demo. Let's get cooking.

[@douglashill7059]

Any time! Lol, Lets get fixing

[@leesutterlin1757]

20+ year commercial drywall/framer foreman, I have never heard that called a California patch, I always knew it as a "hot" patch, probably due to the fact we usually used hot mud (quick set) to do them. I also like to take a little more time and make the patch fit closer to the hole.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks for sharing

[@howardwmoore]

Yep hot patch where I’m from no tape needed

[@ANTAGONISER]

TEXAS PATCH ALL THE WAY-

[@andysay]

I do an "Andy" patch where I leave the hole there, but cut the surrounding paper off the wall, stuff the cavity with newspaper, fill with hot mud, let dry, mesh tape over hole & paper cutaway, then hot mud again, let dry, then topper and sand. The cutaway paper recesses your tape and makes finishing a snap

[@douglashill7059]

You do you Andy

[@jfffjl]

Nicely done. I was getting ready to tell people to put the mud all the way around the piece too, but you had it covered. So to speak.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks 👍

[@mortimersnead5821]

When I've cut rectangular holes in sheetrock, I usually cut 3 sides with a keyhole saw and score the 4th.. But if the person who put their fist through the wall has done most of the demo for you, then cutting from the center to the corners probably saves a lot of time. I definitely want to try finishing drywall with a concrete trowel. I think my wrists would prefer it.

[@douglashill7059]

I have used the concrete trowel for decades for drywall patches and pull down applications

[@The-Daylite]

I've seen people do both but the most common that I've seen is a mixture of both Strip the dry wall like the 1st one Screw it to the wall with a scrap 2 by 4 And then Mud it California Style no need for the tape

[@douglashill7059]

Yes, great for larger patches

[@Pnwelkhunter]

I use a combination of the two. It’s faster and nicer finish using the first method but the added strength and crack prevention of the second is also necessary.

[@douglashill7059]

Nice!

[@chuckbilly907]

I had my doubts at first Doug, but gosh darn it you pulled it off. nice job

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks Chuck! Thanks for watching

[@TheRockofEasyCo]

I’ll use both very commonly, sometimes I’ll do California style but still use back-bracing if it’s too big. It just depends on what I have on me and what will be easier.

[@mrwhobodiggz]

I tend to use both in tandem

[@chemicalvamp]

Nicely done. I've got the same tool in my truck, Last time I used it to level gravels for some landscaping. Its very comfortable and useful. Besides, mud is mud :)

[@douglashill7059]

Right on

[@myyord7963]

Good presenting style keeps viewers engaged. Mistake others do is they don't tell you why certain steps need to be taken.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks, glad this helps you

[@joeallen7981]

The Texas patch or as my dad would say "The right way" especially for big holes like when you throw your brother through the wall while rough-housing.

[@douglashill7059]

Lol, great way to learn a new skill

[@barrettleverette8518]

Thank you for the excellent detail.

[@douglashill7059]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ballgms308]

If your going to cut it and square it up might as well add some blocking. Usually I’ll cut it into a hole the size of my fist and cut the cali patch the size of my fist. If I have to do all that I’ll add blocking

[@douglashill7059]

Yes, demo is one CA patch without backing and the other patch is with backing. I prefer backing it with wood/screwed, but it is nice to have options

[@kryptonianog9418]

Now you have two layers of paper on the california. The hole only needs to be squared out . Then you use the area that has the paper ripped and prep that for the patches' wings . Mud and skim, and you shouldn't see the edges and the patch should be flush with the wall . On the Texas, the fern strip need to be on the insude edges of the hole . Not staggered in the middle .

[@strydyrhellzrydyr1345]

What is that drywall.. it seems different or something... It seems much firmer..

[@bobleonard6954]

The "California" patch is also known as a "Blowout" patch.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks for sharing this Bob, someone also chimed in that it is a "hat patch".

[@anthonylimjoco5958]

Never seen that Cali method Weve cut a bevel so the new part sinks in but can't fall through, then mud and tape

[@ccpanel]

cut piece of drywall bigger than hole twist it, put it bhind the hole, twist it crooked and put a 'close' patch thats the hole size in the hole. screw through old perimeter and through new patch and done. youre using the drywall behind like straps and you dont have to have wood layin around.

[@Ricksworld69]

I would call it California style because you could make a quick patch and most of the walls are textured there so a rudimentary patch with an exaggerated coating on top

[@douglashill7059]

and the thin paper helps keep the bump less noticeable

[@allconstruction1]

Nice video, i am in the trade for more then 40 years and the California patch was done wrong as well as the texas one. And for those who talk about structure wise, lets be realistic is drywall (paper and plaster composite ) there is not much structure strength in drywall !!!😂😂😂

[@douglashill7059]

Many ways to do a patch with the drywall mounted to studs for support being the strongest

[@johnkuhn6115]

What was the reason for cutting to the stud? I didn't see how that came into play and made the patch unnecessarily larger.

[@douglashill7059]

This was not a stud mounted patch video, working in reality this would have been one larger patch over the stud and with wood backing. Thanks for watching

[@jmackinjersey1]

While I do realize this was a demo for the two different types of patch methods, please tell us that you would have typically cut out a large area covering both holes and the stud and made one solid patch.

[@douglashill7059]

Of course, this is a comparison demo

[@gwinvan22]

Use a level to score the cuts on the wall. Then when you cut the patch, everything is square instead of off by half an inch!

[@theloneviking9145]

Damn! That drill is straight out of the Jurassic period. I wonder if it helped build the pyramids or Christopher Columbus’s boats. That drill is so old, I wonder if it operates on steam power, that drill is so old that a hand powered one looked at it and said “damn you’re old”. He better hurry up and finish that work and get the drill back to the museum before they find out it’s missing. That drill is so old. It was given to Bob Vila on his first birthday. That drill is so old. It looks like it operates on Tesla,DC. I’m just saying it’s old.

[@douglashill7059]

Lol

[@allenriff9242]

Texas style is the only way to go.

[@douglashill7059]

I approve of this message

[@flyingsodwai1382]

22:22 is it as big a relief to finally cover up that last spot as it is to watch it being covered?

[@douglashill7059]

I feel your pain

[@jeffsim8664]

Have tried the cali patch a couple times but always had a problem in getting the drywall off the facing paper with out making a mess. Then it always seemed to take way more mud than the regular "normal " way. Cause the board tends to depress in the hole cause no backing.. going to try a vali patch with backing. I did try the regular way backing and used hot mud right in the cut edges and on the surface but with no tape. Minimal mud and light top coat. Dont know how well it will resist cracking as was just recent. I have heard you can use canned foam as a filler with no tape. But not going to buy an 15 dollar can of foam to use once for a patch. Any one had success with that.? .

[@michaelcoll433]

The CA patch is weak and if people touch it or try to hang anything on it, it will fail. Badly. I use the TX approach, but a little differently. I cut the edges on both sides of the installed patch and go straight with mud to the 'crack'. No tape. I try to use as little mud as possible and you won't even see the bump. I stopped sanding patches a long time ago. A damp sponge is so much faster, cleaner and smoother.

[@douglashill7059]

Yes, a damp sponge beats all the clean up

[@BrewerDouglasII]

On your California patch you should eyeball the patch size first. Cut the patch first. Then bend the wings back and draw it out over the hole with your pencil as your guide Then cut. Sand as needed... But won't be. Your patch is loose because you're doing it in the wrong order. If you do it in the right order, it will literally hold itself in very firmly and you won't have the issues you're having. You also won't need an extreme amount of mud and you won't have to fill in a gap at the end. I could tell you were from Texas or you use the second method because you really didn't know what you were doing on the first method. While it's good to share a method. Be sure you know how to do it Just right. It would be like using nails on the Texas method, close but it really doesn't work as good.

[@BrewerDouglasII]

Never knew this was called a California patch before cuz I'm from Georgia and we just called it the right way.

[@douglashill7059]

good stuff, if I could not apply a "liberal" amount of mud on this CA vs TX video, it would not be a parody/satire. ps, I am not from TX

[@willb1157]

Don't tell me, one is often found surfing, and the other will shoot you for no reason. Am I warm?

[@douglashill7059]

Actually there is less surfing in TX and more shootings in CA, lol

[@rcsontag]

It's called the "California method" because it is far more complicated and expensive than it needs to be and the result is not as strong as it should be.

[@douglashill7059]

You got that right, lol

[@HorseLuvr101]

I thought it because it’s bigger, just like CA’s economy is bigger than any other state’s

[@neilabernath5862]

Good comment. Been doing drywall repair for forty years. Never seen the California method, makes no sense.

[@gilbertcox5075]

​@@neilabernath5862 or the cellphone to check the quality

[@wallybeep]

Hilarious.

[@videojomo]

The way the thumbnail is cropped makes you look like an elf, and while I'm thankful for the wall patching tips, I'm a little disappointed we didn't get to see some archery or toymaking.

[@douglashill7059]

maybe in the next one

[@greghight954]

Don’t wet drywall tape with water. It’s proven that it will weaken the adhesion.

[@strydyrhellzrydyr1345]

Well wait... Just cause their is a stud.. that doesn't make it a different style .. I'm a bit confused

[@BigInjun05]

I use the commifornia patch but the texas is definitely stronger.

[@douglashill7059]

Lol, exactly

[@danmichalko2673]

OMG you must be the only one left on the planet still using a drill with a cord. You should have repaired the cuts in the insulation vapor barrier before closing it up.

[@douglashill7059]

Take a deep breath Dan.

[@theloneviking9145]

That drill is so old that it originally didn’t have a cord because electricity wasn’t invented yet.

[@douglashill7059]

rim shot

[@Kashed]

Just get another poster. 😂

[@douglashill7059]

Love it!

[@mick7even]

Those were some angry teens

[@douglashill7059]

Yes, lucky they did not hit a stud

[@jimarcher5255]

Looking at the holes I would say that someone has anger issues.

[@douglashill7059]

True dat

[@jeffsumner2111]

I did commercial drywall for 15 years. I have never heard either one of these patches called this lol. If you want a flat wall and a patch that is strong, do not use the "Cali patch" on something that large. I would never use it on something bigger than a 6"x6" hole. Also try and limit the size of either patch to as small as possible. No since in removing good sheetrock. I'm sure the size of these in the videos was for demonstration. The "Texas patch" can be any size, just make sure you have enough backing. I would also add that if you have a patch next to a stud like that then attach your backing board to the stud on that side, not the drywall. It also help to run the backers diagonally to the corners. This helps stabilize the patch from rocking and creating a Crack later. Great instructions otherwise.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks for watching Jeff. I also believe

[@mickk8519]

I'm with you Jeff, never heard either, but I would never consider a Cali patch for any size. I also use diagonal batons on larger patches to secure corners.

[@ObservationofLimits]

How the fuck you going to connect backing boards to the stud... If you're near a stud, put the patch over the stud.

[@j.wright5918]

I did new home and remodel my whole life since I could lift a 10 box… this is some homeowner repair or slum lord repair right here! Hahahaha def not the right way!

[@j.wright5918]

And that plaster trowel killing me!

[@thomasgreenan8617]

I've drywalled off & on for thirty years and have always used what you call the "Texas" patch. I came up with the idea myself as it's not rocket science. In a pinch, no power needed: cordless screw-gun or even a screw driver will get the job done. Use thin strips of plywood instead as they're less likely to split like thin strips of wood. Someone showed me the "California" patch a couple years ago: fussy, and no doubt not as strong. Cheers from Canada.

[@PhantomFilmAustralia]

I've always used the "Texas" patch method, except the only screw I use is to use as a grip to maneuver the scrap wood into place. I adhere it to the back of the wall with liquid nails and pull the screw to push the wood to the back of the wall. It sets rock hard, and I simply take out the screw when the glue is set and then apply the patch. There's less damage to fill or repair. It is very sturdy and over the decades, I've never had a problem with this method.

[@PhantomFilmAustralia]

@Tekagi I've found that pulling the screw to bond the wood to the back of the wall is only needed for a about 2 minutes, and after 10-15 minutes or so, the bond is more than strong enough to patch. It may take even less time, but I wouldn't risk it, and it usually takes me that long to prepare prepare my other stuff anyway.

[@wisedesi442]

I also found it myself doing same on my own before KZbin days as that is most common sense approach. Now I know it is called Texas. Never heard california style and still don’t like it.

[@NewShockerGuy]

I actually do a combination for both. I do the cali style for the paper to exsisting drywall backing. And I use the Texas style with a piece of wood behind the dry wall so it doesn't move, that way I get both mechanical bonds of the paper/screw into the drywall...etc.. Just in case one were to screw something in my newly repaired patch job... I find that then there is no way for the edges to move and possibly crack.

[@douglashill7059]

I like it, especially where the door knobs bust a hole in the wall

[@burnsmycookies]

I've done the same and it turned out really well especially for being my first fix and knowing zip about drywall repair.

[@gordonxg3491]

I understand both are working well and was thinking why not combining the two styles for a better result while watching the video. It's ready for next person to make heavy load over the same place. By the way, I think one can use Cal style when the patch edges are shorter than half feet while Texas style is a must for edges longer than one feet.

[@ghostf779]

Over achiever lol

[@gilbertcox5075]

Looks like he also used a liberal amount of mud on the Texas patch , so must be a CA. Liberal .

[@davidparker9676]

There is an easier way to do the California patch. Make the patch first with the flanges, then trace it to the wall and cut the wall to fit your patch. I also mark the patch to index it so it goes into the same position it was traced to the wall. I have done some California patches with the wood backer to keep it flat to the wall. I don't see the need to use paper tape on a small patch like this. Paper tape or mesh tape is really only necessary on an actual joint between large panels. When I do the strapped patch (Texas patch), I mud the wall and patch the same way you did the California patch and mud only the joint, skim it and let it dry. I follow it up with a top coat with a wide drywall knife. It's been a long time since I have seen anyone use a corded drill to do work like this. The new cordless drills do everything better, they have rendered the corded drills obsolete.

[@frednepa9690]

I agree that the California patch is the quickest way to go, If you have anything less than approximately twelve inch square areas. If it's larger I will reinforce the area with backing.I also agree with you that it's easier to make the pacth with the flaps, put it on the wall and then trace and cut. The drywall paper is thinner than paper tape and hides more easily. I use Rapidset mud and can repair and paint damages in one day.

[@Aleczeratul]

Never understood why the California patch is not used with a backer when additional strength is needed instead of a patch with backer and tape. I find the patch with flaps easier to smooth in since you can also shave a bit of tape on existing drywall as well

[@mortimersnead5821]

I thought I invented the Texas Patch as a more structural version of the California Patch I grew up on. I like to use strips of osb for backing, because it's the least likely wood to split.

[@douglashill7059]

Hey Mortimer, I just put a name on the patch with backing because I got a kick out of hearing the state of California has its own drywall patch, lol

[@warrendelay]

@@douglashill7059 People in or from the State of California have ego complexes, so they title things as though Californians are innovators. I lived in Southern Calif for the first 27 years of my life. and through both personal experience as a resident, and now as an outside observer for 35 years, I see how Californians think the world revolves around California. An example is a few years ago I was in a restaurant and a couple of middle aged women proudly and loudly announced "We're from California". obviously thinking that the surrounding local patrons would be impressed. lol... little did they know it not only DIDN'T impress anyone, to the contrary, it caused a lot of rolling eyes and head shakes..

[@theloneviking9145]

@@warrendelay I always wondered that. I lived in California just a little bit when I was young but you hear a lot of terms like California garage door, California, basements, California, closets, California paints. It does have a certain ring to it, the word California. Even when I was driving in the city the other day I saw California Street.

[@tbelding]

@@theloneviking9145 Don't forget the California King mattress. Excessively long to support the large egos in Beverly Hills :)

[@theloneviking9145]

@@tbelding good call I forgot that one and a good explanation of its origins!

[@gilbertcox5075]

It looks like he also used a liberal amount of mud on the Texas patch .I wonder what that means? Using a phone to check you work, that's a new one. Paint is a perfect match but it looks better than the old ,works for me.

[@douglashill7059]

Lol, was not intended. Thanks for watching

[@d.ricc6421]

Doug, the hole on the left was from the wife missing the husband in a round house and the hole to the right was the husband's swing missing the wife. Easy fix, POSTERS LOL

[@douglashill7059]

yes, I think a similar experience happened here and was covered with posters. Cheap fix

[@bspence11]

I’ve seen the ‘Texas’ patch before, but it was called a California patch, just reinforced.

[@fmolds]

I'm from California and I've used both methods . It just depend on what's available at the time . As for the comments......grow up

[@randomname9758]

California is more of a half ass job and the Texas style is the proper way and nowadays you can even just get a patch kit with an aluminum sheet.

[@Cowboysockpuppet]

I would never use a “California” patch for something that big and that close to the stud. Either way I would have cut a couple of wood pieces for backing. I’m in California and truthfully I don’t think I’ve ever seen my Sheetrock guys do patches like that. Maybe more for dyi type people and why not take the extra minute to cut out and use the stud??

[@obviouslyambiguous8308]

Nicely done! Great job explaining the WHY instead of just showing or telling what to do. You're the Bob Ross of drywall. 😆

[@douglashill7059]

Thank you

[@thereal1006]

1st way is terrible that is not going to last very long before it goes again all you gotta do is lean on it and it will fail

[@grainplaner216]

fibafuse seems to work really well with hot mud because you get full embeddedment through the tape not just under it.

[@stroys7061]

I prefer the Texas patch (never heard it called that) but leave at least 1/4 inch gap around the patch so the mud get in and bonds the patch to the rest of the wall board.

[@douglashill7059]

Good tip

[@tarzankingofthejungle1040]

hey kool.. saw your vid today, and thought it was pretty kewl. i lived in calif most my life and started construction in 1971, always have done the texas style of drywall repair, and today was first time i saw the "cailfornia" way of doing it,, pretty kool but i'll stick with Texas....p.s. i try to incorperate a stud as one of my boards when possible. thanks!

[@douglashill7059]

Always use a stud for your drywall patch, this was for video purpose only

[@tarzankingofthejungle1040]

@@douglashill7059 yes, and enjoyed it very much, i even learned something!!

[@muddynyc]

Yeah - he took the time to point out the wall stud but then never used it for stability. But hey he did a kick ass job!

[@OEMPlus]

I'm not trained but I am a texan and can validate that is exactly how i do it, texan style. had no idea that was our thing lol

[@douglashill7059]

Strong state, strong repair

[@kccodex8931]

At 25:22 I swear I heard you say, "There are no mistakes, just happy accidents."......Channeling Bob Ross.😄

[@douglashill7059]

I could watch Bob Ross all day. Thanks for watching

[@giovanigiorgos2955]

I'd never use the California method on a hole repair that large.

[@mikeaarestad7546]

Orange peel walls are harder to match. Can do pretty close though.

[@bruceb6200]

Hi Douglas - enjoyed your video. But what about a large closet ceiling hole 18" x 15" that doesn't have any wood in ceiling to attach to (just sagging plaster)? This seems way too big for California style. I have a photo if there is a way to send it to you.

[@douglashill7059]

Hey Bruce, go with the Texas style patch with the wood trim support kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3_WdGZ4jrekntU

[@bruceb6200]

@@douglashill7059 Thanks for reply. OK I looked at other video. Do you call it "floating" because the wood is only attached to drywall and not anchored wood? Also, are wood shims thick enough or do you need more substantial thicker pieces?

[@donpoole8617]

"California" method="blowout" patch. I spent half my life doing drywall patchwork. It all depends on what you CAN do. Btw, put the backup pieces along the edges, not in the middle. Doing that insures that the edges mate perfectly. And regarding tape type, the fiberglass tape is superior but must be used with setting type compound-not recommended for diyers.

[@garfieldfarkle]

There's an easier way that does not put the proud bulge in the wall to be floated out. Use 2 pieces of drywall for a backer that supports all 4 joints. Fasten them with screws as you did with the wood, but also glue them in place with some Durabond. Then put a brand new blade in your utility knife and cut any burrs from the edges of your cuts and angle them slightly so there will be a V-shaped joint, when viewed in section. Mix up more Durabond and apply to the edges of the hole in the wall and the edges of the patch. Press the patch in, clean off the Durabond with a blade, then clean the entire repair with a damp cloth, leaving only Durabond in the joint. Remove the screws used for the backers, apply a finish coat of E-Z- Sand and get paid. With all the joints supported from the rear, there is no need for tape on the outside.

[@ivaneatoniii5025]

100 percent correct, Good to see another finisher that knows how to do punchout.

[@jenniferrooks678]

Honest question, doesn't the tape also prevent cracks from occurring/being visible? I'm just wondering if in a situation where a home experiences more temp shifts, or is an older home, having the taped edges prevents those cracks when shifts/changes occur? I'm renoing my first house and self teaching drywall (and repairs) - have done both types shown in this video, but curious about your fix.

[@garfieldfarkle]

@@jenniferrooks678 Yes, that is the purpose of the tape. The joint between two pieces of drywall will open up if it is simply filled with joint compound. By bridging the joint, vibrations or changes in temperature or humidity are shared. See my answer above for a better way. It puts the bridging on the back side of the repair. This avoids the lump of the tape that has to be floated out, which is a very challenging thing for amateurs to get right.

[@Inquiringmindswant2know]

Garfield farkle could you go into greater depth/detail your way sounds awesome… I have a hole repair where my mom put her power recliner into the wall it’s about a jagged 4x6 offset hole. Appreciate any help.

[@tobiaswillson5900]

new york patch

[@craigkling5125]

Texas, though I am in California and better at it.

[@larryholland1466]

We call it a blast patch and that size one needs a wood backer

[@johnstejskal6084]

He calls it a "Cali patch" because he half-assed it,,,?

[@Entertainment_Station_ES]

Should have just cut to the stud and had that as your backer on that side since you were so close to the stud.

[@randythomas3478]

It's called a "California Hot-Patch".... Only do this type whey the area will not ever get bumped! But get this....all you need to do in order to have a substantial patch is to cut out the damage where the opening is square or rectangle, then hold four 2x4 pieces behind the existing opening, and leave 1 1/2" exposed, screwing thru the drywall and into the 2x4 blocks. Then, cut your new piece of drywall to fit and screw it to the exposed 2x4 blocks! Tape, bed, and skim, let dry (or cure if you use quick-set)sand smooth, paint. You're done! I do these patches in 30 minutes to 1 hour using Quick - Set mud! Ok ... I'm what you call a professional. Don't try this at home or the wife will kick your arse!😂😂😂

[@RichardBellII]

I get that it's a demo, but you are just putting off the problem to the next owner. That should be one patch, 32" wide from center of stud to center of the third, repair the vapor barrier, use 4 thicker horizontal 3/4" plywood strips (no splitting) on the top and bottom of the hole that will overlap the edges (~14" x 2") so that the screws won't blow through the drywall paper. I like mesh tape, it saves a step. That patch needs to be feathered A LOT wider. Wipe off the dust, use PVA primer and one coat of paint, then paint the whole wall, otherwise the patch will flash. Nobody calls them Texas or California patches but it probably got you hits. Very reasonable video quality, narrating, and editing.

[@Orlosthedruid]

What the HELL does California or Texas have to do with patching a damn hole in dry wall??!!! I think some one just wanted to differentiate between 2 styles of repairs and was IGNORANT of any real nomenclature for the repair styles, therefore, he used whatever came into his mind.

[@ellenpayson3104]

Great video. Carefully and patiently explained. Thank you for your expertise!

[@douglashill7059]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@mrgcav]

Why you made more work for yourself and make two weak spots amazes me. Always attach to studs. Cut one large hole across the stud and mount a new smaller piece to the stud. The new piece has to be 1/4" smaller per side than your hole. Then apply patch compound, Sand and apply patch compound. Sand again and it will be strong and disappear. You method will show a buldge. Your "Texas" Method is much better. then the first. But your patch was too big and the Mud did not dill the cracks.

[@1bottlefed]

Where I came up it was called a blowout plug. BS patch in my opinion as you spend more time making the patch than you would doing it correctly. Also who used premixed compound for repairs......way too much shrinkage and time. Texas style, if you are doing 5 or less simply do the repair first then skim and tape with 5 minute mud. I prefer plywood for the reinforcement (if you don't carry a saw with you a bucket with some precut pieces of various size will do fine). Honestly if the patches are small (and not near the striker side of a door) and there is room to properly reinforce the edges you will be able to do the repair without tape......but if its larger or in a flex area like a door or window (or if you just like to do things right) make sure to tape. On that note the thin fiberglass tape kicks butt.

[@njuham]

I know I'm going to prefer the Texas style.

[@douglashill7059]

Good choice

[@Yarba]

Call me kooky, but I don't trust anybody who's not using cordless tools. When making the drywall patch I always use plywood as my backer board because it doesn't split. The paper face and paper tape are to cover up the joints that suck the moisture out of the mud mix creating suction cracks. I believe this causes extra work in trying to mud over the paper tape and match the existing surface of the wall. I spray primer into the cracks before I mud and without using any type of paper or mesh tape no suction cracks develop afterwards. I have used this method for decades and have gone back to the scene of the crime err I mean past jobs to review my work with no cracks developing.

[@chriskelvin248]

If only there was some neat Milwaukee cordless doo-dad that could quickly form a recessed lip on drywall butt joints and patch pieces. It would save a lot of of extra mud layers and leave you with a quicker and flatter end result. Butt joints suck. Ever try and fit a nice little perfectly square vanity into a drywall corner? What is invisible to the eye can’t be hidden easily under the scrutiny of a framing square.

[@robertodinges8279]

I've been stringing tape for 45 yrs and the Cali patch is the lamest slowest way to patch a hole don't do it, even cutting a hole back to a stud is lame I could have had both those holes patched before you got to putting the mud around the first patch, hot mud glass tape, and maybe a small piece of rock if the hole requires it. Shoot I'm flushed out before your done using 20 min.

[@T313COmun1s7]

It occurs to me that you could combine the two methods and have a paper flange with your backer boards to create a Tim the Tool Man Taylor overkill version. That is probably what I would do myself.

[@douglashill7059]

Yes you can combine the two methods if you want to overkill it. There may be a good reason to overkill it, like a ceiling patch that gets a lot of ambient light on it in a rich persons house that you can charge a lot of money for the patch.

[@Aleczeratul]

Wondered myself why not use a cali patch with backer instead of messing around with thick paper. Thought there might be a good reason, but couldn't find it yet

[@patrickperry6945]

There is no such thing as “Texas” style or “California” style. It’s just patch the friggin hole as needed. Jeez. Well. You got it done. But a lot of BS to get there.

[@greggrusnak6094]

They call it California style because of the way Stucco is Applied to the Exterior, You are literally Sticking it together like spreading Stucco thru the Mesh.

[@K2CTC]

Fun to watch both styles. This pro-level technique vs patch kits (which are fine for occasional patch work). The comment about how this is "slum lord" patching has no idea what working with drywall is all about and is just trolling. This is good work.

[@douglashill7059]

Thanks for watching!

[@allenbuck5589]

I found your channel again as you said after my comment on your other video. The cal patch was taught to me 40 years ago by a man named West Sprol in va beach. Great old hanger finisher that cut back to just small jobs and a patch man. Tuff as nails the Texas version I’ve picked along the way. Both work well. I enjoyed watching the work Im a well retired old carpenter superintendent that still does his own work. Thanks from my hill in. Sc

[@douglashill7059]

Good stuff

[@peterinbrat]

1:41 Get an oscillating saw🙄

[@gerhardschemel3565]

So much time spent and neither of them are close to being half as good as my drywall patching system that is a dual system being it can be the worlds strongest anchor. And it uses less materials and much less work which makes less of a mess. You will have a finish that’s flush with original finish. From a 1” hole up to well you could create an entire wall it would take a little while but possible

[@starpartyguy5605]

I’m a big fan of Fibafuse, not fibamesh. It’s pure fiberglass. Have to wear gloves to handle it. Mud goes right through it so no chance of bubbles behind the tape

[@markzambelli]

Good to see you also use what you're calling a 'concrete finishing tool' ... over here in the UK I use the exact same wooden handeled one but it's called a plasterers trowel... nice and stiff and very comfortable and a must for anything but finishing.

[@MrSoulauctioneer]

he hasn't a clue about plaster, hence the ignorance. He probably bought a finishing trowel thinking its the same thing.

[@keithjurena9319]

I taper sand finish and texture around the joint after cutting square. Much like the long seam on raw drywall. I don't need sanding after final joint compound coat.

[@warrathblacktiger5566]

Never heard of either one and I live in Texas I simple get piece drywall bigger than the hole place piece over hole then cut out then take pieces of wood make a backer to hold the patch screw it on mud it sand and paint only if it's a large section will I locate the studs take a piece and cut making sure I get center on both studs to have something to screw new piece securely Small holes I simple fit piece of wood threw turn it to where I can put two screws to close the hole for most part then cut plug make small hole center screw it on and mud But what I saw iv never heard names attached to it since each hole different and attaching is never same why would you bother naming it

[@donmiles5080]

Can someone explain to me why he would not bother to fill that small hole in the crack? Why would he be sure to fill the other cracks and then he could care less about the crack on the left and leave a small hole in it? I'm sure some professional would give a reason why it doesn't matter.

[@kennedymcgovern5413]

OK the second way he did this...that's the way I did it. But I had no idea it was named for a state. I am cool with that. Look: The first method was a half a__ed, ill conceived repair that will look good for a day before falling a part. But it is the best you can hope for, because your OTHER life decisions have left you devoid of electricity. It is named for California. The second method is correct, logically sound and sturdy. It works in practice as well as in theory, and when you do it this way the repair will actually solve the problem in the long term. You can use your power tools to do this one, because you are an adult and you paid your power bill. That one is named for Texas. This tracks.

[@douglashill7059]

Love it

[@DiscoFang]

Liberally apply... Oh what a cheeky little roast.

[@douglashill7059]

Hehe

[@charlespaine987]

I notice neither “patch “ attends to the damaged air barrier behind the “patch” compromising the insulation envelope , sloppy incomplete repair plain lazy.

[@brianwebb9121]

Please get rid of that totally annoying elevator music in the background, and get yourself a cordless drill. Other than that good video. 😁