How to change a cam bearing with MFJJ!!!!!

Basic demonstration on how to change a cam bearing with mfjj.
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[@garaldfillmore5026]

I loved to see that you struggle with spacers on an axel as well. Took me a while of dropping them to figure out using an Allen wrench to hold the one side on too! Great vid!

[@royhoglund1322]

I think this will be a good series of videos! What other issues do people bring their bows in for? How about a draw weight change on a bow that will require a limb swap? How do you know what limb deflection goes where?

[@brianlew9559]

"If you're careful and you know what you're doing" he says confidently with a hammer. This is why I love watching you man, you simply can do no wrong. I, however, should give my hammer away immediately.

[@imTrekPlayz]

You should make video of adding, different stabilizers, limb savers and see which ones remove the most vibration from mid line bows, also is you can use other components (shims/ bearing upgrades:)

[@allenr6687]

Where did you get the bungee cord for the drop away rest...

[@nicfield6895]

I like placing the thin spacer on the limb side, so it can't snag or drop into the e-clip slot. The Hoyt spacer tool also can help in this situation.

[@rolftittmann3482]

When I did it on my PSE, I took of strings and then released all pressure. Then took out Limbs totally . Then you put the assembly sideways and take off the limb above cam and no issue with spacers anymore. Reassembly is much easier.

[@joshmorris8510]

Love the video. I have always wondered how difficult it would be to change bearings out.

[@houghtonic1975]

Well demonstrated why working on your own bow is easier with all the non-spacer tuning systems.

[@l.i.archer5379]

Spacers are a one-and-done, with no chance of a set screw loosening up and the worm drive moving the cam on its own.

[@houghtonic1975]

@@l.i.archer5379 Yes, they are one and done, but they are also a PITA. That's a common complaint from anyone who has ever had to work on Hoyt or others that use multiple spacers to move the cam. I've never had a set screw loosening on its own. I do like the new ez220 system from PSE. It is a single spacer, but easily used to move the cam, and won't fall out. How they hold up over time is the only question. The tophats from Mathews are the next best thing if you aren't a fan of the Bowtech system.

[@l.i.archer5379]

@@houghtonic1975I do it all the time. Takes me about 10 minutes or less to move shims on both cams, nowadays.

[@caseyk6625]

I learned a long time ago that when installing bearings into a housing or sleeve, like that cam, you want to only press on the outer race of the bearing and if your installing onto a shaft you only press using the inner race. Not sure I'd trust solely the uneven face of a hammer to evenly press a bearing into place. With that being said, and if time weren't of the essence, I would have put the bearings in the feezer to shrink them and might not have had to press them in at all. If those bearings ever fail, I'd blame it on the hammer installation method.

[@davidnuzzaci2459]

Always very helpful!

[@aaronshorter864]

Idea: All the tools to take to the field and what all can be fixed in the field.

[@PersonalBestOutdoors]

05:50 Haha... Josh... get a piece of wood. A simple pack of shims works great if you're going to be smacking on things with a hammer. Either that or pony up for a lead hammer or poly top hammer. Steel on steel is fine, except for those bearings don't have anywhere near the mass or surface area of your hammer. Just trying to save you some future hassle, man. Sure, being careful helps. But using a softer material for striking ensures the piece your working on is safe from damage. It is a free country after all. I suppose you can do what you want. I've really created a ton of extra work for myself turning a wrench by not just taking two extra seconds for small things like that.

[@richardharris8273]

On the topic of what new/prospective archers need to know... I bought a Hoyt RX 8 Ultra last month from my local pro shop and have been learning a lot from your channel and others. I was shooting yesterday and pulled through the back wall which bent the module and the bow got stuck with the limbs fully ready to fire. A lot of potential energy... scary. I quickly, yet very cautiously, packed up my bow and drove 30 minutes to the shop where I bought it. I explained what happened and their first question was how often do I check/retighten the module screws... uh, never. I've had the bow a month and they probably told me to do that when I bought it, but I was saturated with new information and didn't retain that. The bow has never been dropped or dry-fired, and I guess it was good the limbs got stuck in full draw. They put it in a press and removed the bent module, replaced everything (string and cable were good), and re-timed it and it shot a bullet hole through paper. So I was super happy to get my bow back so quickly and with no damage (beyond the bent module). So, a couple newbie 101 things here... 1) I had no idea a bow could get stuck in the full draw position with the string loose and arrow dangling from the nock. It's like holding a bomb. What's the recommended procedure for that? My first instinct was to bump the cams to release the pressure but then I thought that could do more damage to the bow, so I thought it best to leave it alone and get to the pro shop. But I was wishing I had a way to secure the limbs in their compressed state. 2) I learned a hard lesson about checking module screws. I've only had the bow six weeks, but I've been shooting 3 to 4 times per week, around 30 arrows a session. I had no idea the module screws could unwind that quickly. In all the videos I've watched, I don't recall anyone mentioning that. If it's useful info: set to 68# and 30" DL (E on the mod), 85% and XH (Hoyt defaults).

[@JamesVanGriff]

adding blue lock tite to all the module screws helps prevent them backing out as well.

[@richardharris8273]

@@JamesVanGriff Yep, I actually just read that in the Hoyt manual: "It may be necessary to use blue Loctite on the module screws to keep them secure."

[@wormytom]

Good for another five shots. You are a true craftsmen

[@danieltrousdale8919]

I would love to see a video on bows for youngsters. My son is turning 8 next month and want to get home a bow for his birthday.

[@toddblackburn4862]

Thanks for that video..!! It was helpful on taking bow completely out of press and re-pressing as this is the one maneuver I’m always scared to do without blocking bow scared it will blow out of press…..

[@marcelbourque]

Always put the thin spacer first, otherwise it can actually fall into the snap ring groove and get damaged when you have to hammer the axle through.

[@ArchieRodenbo]

Thanks for all your hard work and shared knowledge.ive been watching your show, elkshape, and Chris Bee's show for about 3 years because I wanted to improve my archery game. I think you need to put out a video about how you shoot and show us. I'm thinking of switching to a handheld release and could use some lessons. Right now I shoot a shity bone collector beast release and the trigger doesn't have enough adjustment to it. I wake up everyday and hope you have a new video out.

[@rockyreynolds4027]

Good job guys I’m digging these how to videos

[@jerryjeannette]

That was great. That is stuff that I like to. 👍

[@MrHunter2784]

Do a video on proper till setting with today’s compound bows. Do a video on the proper way to position the nock point, seems like there is a mix of people using the rest to set there nock and some measure the string to determine center for nock point and set the rest based off the nock. I would think center of string should be used to position the rest provided the cams are in time. How come manufacturers don’t publish till settings anymore? When it’s just as important as cam timing. Thanks for the work!

[@charleszielke2634]

Man, good thing you caught that before going to TAC!

[@SWMissouriOutdoors]

Great video. A couple of slave pins in common axle sizes would do you so good. Been there done that and feel the pain of tiny spacers, and the e-clips that like to shoot into another universe. Magnetized slave pins help though, shims dont fall off as easily.

[@trloftin]

How about a bow cleaning video? Sunday at TAC, it rained really well, so some cams are muddy, some screws are oxidizing, and some mud got into knocks and onto servings. So how about an at home simple cleaning vid?

[@longpaddlejr30]

Great video gentlemen. Can't wait to see the tack videos

[@Prairiehunter]

Archery 101 video idea: The pro’s and cons of insert collars. The theory is good, but if you are using a steel insert how hard of an object does your arrow need to crash into before the arrow shaft splinters?

[@slamonfpv]

The tip with the spacers with gold thankyou.🤘

[@brockpeck7073]

Holly weights on the back bar Tim.

[@drewolm]

First thing I thought. Must be a full pound on there.

[@brockpeck7073]

@@drewolm I would not want to carry that bow around tac

[@charlesroscoe9997]

Should have placed the small thin washer first. Thick is much easier to hold on to and more room to work with.

[@-lovefromnh]

Hit it with a hammah!!! Great video! Thank you.

[@kennylainhart7148]

Best thing I've seen that works with shims is hoyts shim tool , makes life a little easier 😮😊

[@johnmikolay4687]

It is easier for me to break bow down from the start Great video

[@juanrodriguez-mu7ko]

You are the man MFJJ

[@mat_in_texas]

This video highlights why I’ve seen other guys break the bow down to move shims. You’d have to be pretty good to do it all in the press. I doubt I’d have the skills.

[@jakef1977]

Cool video man! I hope I never have to do that 😂.

[@engineerz_hero6771]

Great video. You definitely show it is easier than people think even with basic tools. Keep up the great work

[@l.i.archer5379]

So, even with a blown up bearing, this bow still shot better than the Bowtech and the Darton. Whenever I take off cams, I take the strings off and relax the whole bow, and work on a flat surface (like the floor) so if any shims drop out, they don't have far to fall, bounce all over, and get lost. There should be no gaps anywhere along the axle. The left side cam spacers should measure 3/16" (it does on my Alaskan XT) from the factory. Add shims if there is a gap.

[@paulmcclure7794]

Great information sir, Thanks!!

[@timmurphy3769]

Ripping apart and swapping limbs over for an elite omnia... Apparently it's a common problem with elites that the higher strength limb gets installed on the wrong side and causes the cam leaning/twisting, cable rubbing and bad centre shot.... And the only fix is to swap the limbs from one side to the other... So yeah Find an elite (especially omnia) that has the problem and show us how to diy that! Plus tune it! Also what bowtech do you recommend? My omnia is doing my head in lol

[@juanrodriguez-mu7ko]

Awesome you are the best!

[@T-Mak-s7x]

That’s why I walk away and don’t watch the guy work on my bow, that hammer! Like you said, learn myself. I want to for sure. I can work on my recurve 😊.

[@tcnarber1]

Like getting tooth paste back in the tube…..surprised there is not an armorers mallet around that shop….much better tool than a regular hammer. Jmo.

[@LANCEBARNES13]

Great job !!

[@briansteele1378]

I've had the same bow for over 4 years now, would you recommend on the off-season to completely tear it apart? Re-grease limb pockets, new cam bearings, roller bearings, etc?

[@001snapshot]

I recently bought the same bow. Was this a case of a "Bad" part, or a bad design?. Have put aprox 300 shots thru mine and dont see/feel any issues.

[@keithcushing8162]

Idea for video on vanes

[@zacharymitchell7774]

Love the video. Did Tim keep the stock strings?

[@l.i.archer5379]

Yes, those are stock strings. They're actually very good. I've shot mine for the past 3 months now with no peep twist, and they settled in very nicely. I marked the cams with a silver sharpie above and below their respective limbs so I could tell at a glance if any of the cables crept. They're still in time. The string does clock your arrows left though, so a left helical fletch on your arrows would be appropriate.

[@kevinarmstrong7469]

I wonder if this is a bear issue or maybe it's common. I recently picked up the alaskan and have maybe 300 shots through it and it already broke a spacer and bearing.

[@lukeg2389]

So would this make you pick the bowtech if you went back to the shoot off? And this obviously happens to flagship bows but not as often.

[@ryanklein7573]

MFJJ video idea.. my pro shop tells me I put too much helical on my arrows an will have trouble with arrow flight can u make a quick video on he will go for a change and your opinion I know you touched on it in videos but maybe an actual video about it ?

[@bfittock]

can you do a Vido on cam shimming thanks

[@jeradlene1732]

How about an in depth one video on top hats

[@moecontreras2014]

How many weights does Tim have on his back stabilizer, looks really heavy..

[@douglasvaughn9530]

It's much easier to take the string and cables off, relax the limbs then take the bow out of the press before you take the axel out and mess with those tiny shims. Mathews and Hoyt are the only bows I will leave in the press when shimming cams. You made that look much harder than it had to be by trying to do it all while the bow was in the press. That's a good way to mess a limb up or lose a shim.

[@peterp1143]

Looks like your bow press isn't pressing each limb evenly. Axles should slide right in.

[@bertcard2307]

To much fun! 😂

[@goldtip34]

Shims are a pain for sure. Looks like Tim is back in business and if he doesn’t shoot well has a good excuse 😅

[@JamesLitchfield-jt9bb]

I'm thinking new cam with bearings. If you have the time for it to ship. Done in 10 minutes

[@thistledewoutdoors3331]

Whats happening in Tan Antonio ?

[@flashclimber]

Warning on changing out Mathew’s bearings. Specifically referring to The three bearing TRX style cams, (not the switch weight style). Do not press out or hammer out the TRX bearings. They have two bearings, a piece of aluminum which is milled out from the cam and then another bearing. This makes it almost impossible to get the bearings out when they explode and and expand into the cam. You have to meticulously hammer them out individually with an awl. You cannot press them out!!! I’ll just call it for what it is…horrible design flaw. That’s why they discontinued the TRX and that style of cam. Should have never gotten away from the switch weight cam in the first place.

[@Snorkl7879]

Can you go onto more detail? I’m trying to deal with this exact issue right now, the sleeve in my C3X cam cracked.

[@EdwardMcCormick-o6d]

mostly happens on mathews...but mathews now make you buy the entire cam instead of just of the bearing

[@kip.k]

This process looks like it would lead to the use of many 4 letter words.

[@Jimbowiejr]

I've burnt out 6 Matthew's bearings and 2 hoyt.

[@trevordavies2789]

I put a screwdriver through my hand doing something similar 😂.

[@DavidBowCrazyBabyak86]

Is this a common problem?

[@bradmoulton138]

Shoulda chose the Darton...lol

[@user-oz1zn7ey2m]

That bow isn't very old. What gives Bear?

[@jamierolls1919]

Too bad the Core Sr lost the shoot off 😂 this struggle sesh could have been avoided

[@vinci8924]

Tim should have picked the Darton 😂

[@Cparchery...]

I hate doing that I always just give up and put it on a bench

[@Constitutionkiller-ye1xw]

You look incompetent, LOL! Josh reminds me of Chris Bee, in a hurry and a touch impatient with his equipment/tools.

[@brianfletcher319]

All I can think about is that happening on a hunt

[@JoshandTim]

Heard he can do 100 push-ups in 20 minutes

[@perryrusso3764]

PSE bearings cannot be pressed out of their cams or pounded out. PSE’s customer service wasn’t helpful at all…the company used to be customer oriented but not any longer…they suck😮

[@XXXston3wallXXX]

VIDEO IDEA: explain the 4 main type of cam systems bows use, how to identify which is which and each cam systems best tuning method for perfect arrow flight.