How to change or adjust travel on the Manitou Markhor fork as shown by TakeAHikeShop.com

[@LebronPhoto1]

Using this video as a guide, I was able to get my Manitou Markour to 120mm of travel. One tip, I used a zip tie to keep the fork compressed as I was reinstalling the plug. That allowed me to do this on a table without the need for a wall to help compress it.

[@cfmechanic]

I had same idea

[@coopedaddy]

After watching this video I was very upset I hadn’t found your shop before I got this fork elsewhere. Your site is now in my favorites and will be getting my business moving forward. Thanks for the great video.

[@johnzee691]

thanks. 5 yrs later but......stuck with limited options on what will fit a first gen pivot. the evolution of bikes.. everything new is tapered and rebuild kits for the fox 32f 140 rlc are not available, that I can tell. oh well, I'm an old fart now and the manitou markhor is plenty for me. not getting crazy. do appreciate your video, so thanks

[@ProWhiteAntiJew]

Just did this it worked. Not without struggle. I had to heat the bottom bolt slightly with a propane torch to get it to come out. Had to pull on it with pliers to get it to turn out as the insert was just spinning inside. On reassembly I had to use a pointy stick to help line up the insert to get it all the way into the bottom. Also had to use a 3/8 square extension to hold the top of it to tighten it up and then insert the white plastic part after it was tight.

[@brandonmcgaughey5810]

Thanks for the video! For other DIY’ers, it’s a 20 mm socket on top and 7mm on bottom. The SAE counterparts could work but much more likely to round corners. Also, getting the rod lined up with plug, is a major pain!

[@jackomahoney75]

Thanks for the conversion!

[@mtbbiker6401]

My lower bolt was 11mm. I think Manitou has made running changes during production of these forks over the years.

[@reindeerss]

Any tips with aligning the plug? I can’t for the life of me seem to get the bloody thing aligned 😩😩😩

[@jasonmccrocklin9498]

@@reindeerss I had to use the bottom of a rachet to press in from the top while I guided it with a 6mm Allen wrench from the plug hole.

[@destroyer4115454]

@@jasonmccrocklin9498 I spent 6 hours today trying to guide it and it wouldn't budge... What am I missing here?

[@timvansteenburgh8389]

U made my day twice today almost ended up with a cheap Chinese fork then I found your web site then I was extremely happy with the price but bummed because it was only 100mm so like I said you made it twice and gained a subscriber

[@kristofferlyhne8227]

Thanks a lot for the video. Nice of you to take the time for a walk through. I had a really hard time with the bottom screw. What I did was to fasten the airchamper after the bottom screw got contact with the with the cartridge. Then I filled a little air into the airchamper, and that pushed the cartridge so thet the screw would tigthen. I got that tip from the manitou Markhor manual. Have a nice weekend

[@BareBackBroncos]

I can't get the bolt out, I am stuck. I even try to grab it with vice grips and its will not come out.

[@echobenav8]

Thanks for the video! Everything went like you showed in the video. Key point you made about pushing the plunger all the back down was a huge help getting the drain plug back on. Much Appreciation!

[@40hrplusservicetech]

Man I really appreciate the video, just did my new forks, your video helped with every step. It made it super easy. For getting the oil plug back in definitely moving that spacer around in the bottom and pushing from the top gets it to slide right down like you did. Great info.

[@jeffreyeickert5524]

Thanks you for this great video! I just adjusted my Machete from 100 to 120 mm without any problems.

[@JPineda24]

Did the stanchion length measured to 120mm when you adjusted it? Because on my markhor bought it set at 100mm but when i measured the stanchions its 120mm

[@jeffreyeickert5524]

@@JPineda24 Mine was a Machete, but I guess the stanchions are similar. That being said the Machete travelled at 100 mm builds up like a silimar 110mm travel forks. Same thing for 80 or 120 mm of travel, it measures like 10 mm more. If you are not sure just release the air completly, fully compress the forks and measure it.

[@jreidfive]

DUDE! Thanks for making this. I've got a Markhor on my son's bike, a Marvel Comp on my 29er, and just ordered a Marvel Pro for my wife's bike. Haven't adjusted travel on any of them yet, but once my wife's fork comes in I'm planning on trying to adjust it from 80 to 100mm. I've been dreading it, and looking for videos on this for the last year, but after watching this I'm feeling a lot better about the travel adjustment knowing I won't have to completely disassemble the fork and replace the oil.

[@adrenalineadz2648]

Thanks a lot. I did it and felt like I did a clean job. Would not have been able to do it without your guidance

[@RaymondIlano]

Thanks for this helpful video! So far I am loving my Markhor I got from your shop! To anyone going to 120mm travel, don't forget to add additional 5w damper oil. I added 6ml Maxima to mine to get the required 97mm oil level.

[@RaymondIlano]

@Chris Poldervaart yes. The damper oil level is 97mm for 120mm travel setting. With damper removed I measured 97mm on a plastic straw. I then used a syringe to put 5w Maxima fork oil in until it touches the bottom of the straw. The 97mm measurement is from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil.

[@MiniVanMTB]

if you don't lose any oil wouldn't you need to remove oil? Manual states oil height is 97mm with 120mm travel and 92mm with 100mm travel and this is measured as empty space at top of fork leg with damper removed.. Am I missing something?

[@mtbbiker6401]

@kevin horne Yes, you are missing that the damper compartment increases in height when you convert to 120mm. So to achieve 97mm oil height you’ll most likely need to add damper oil.

[@richardjensen3655]

Nice. Great instructions, no skipping steps!

[@8anos8anos]

Thank u pal for this!! "Extra Tips" •Zip Tie to fully compress your fork, then u don't have to press. •I find it better to push the internal part with the back of a 10mm drill (Watch your hands when u have to push from the sharp side of the drill, use thick cloth/gloves). Do not put something thinner that it can pass through the internal threads n damage the internal parts •Do not lift the fork. Keep it on horizontal position until you screw the bottom nut to avoid oil leakage. •If u have hard time screw or unscrew the bottom nut Press the internal part with your longest finger or something. Hope helps someone

[@cfmechanic]

This is amazing video. I wonder if there is same spacer option for the older manitou r7 mrd. I know it's old but 100mm. I recently bought markour damper to scavenge the green bit for the damper in my r7. I got them used but was missing adjustment cap spring and balls my abs damper is missing green allen bit that needle screws into and controls the adjustment. Fingers crossed it all works. Looks identical to what I'm supposed to have we will see tomorrow

[@michaelblume150]

Thanks! Saved me a lot of questions

[@Rnjbikes]

Any tips to put the bottom screw back in

[@matthewcarson1280]

takeahike is pretty amazing. got a fork ordered on a Saturday at noon and delivered by Monday morning. super nice too.

[@11Bison11]

Thnxx 👍✌️the travel change works fine with your explanation !

[@grimaceg1253]

Any hints on getting the oil plug out. I for the life of me can not get it to come out.

[@Mulesandmustangs]

Ordered a Manitou Machete from you guys. Shipping is taking some extra time. But that's ok cause I got it $45 less than anywhere else I could find online. Cant wait for it to come in the mail, do this conversion, mount it up and go ride!! Will eventually do a review on the fork. You guys rock!!

[@francoisellett7298]

I fully endorse this how to video!!! Hayes / Manitou advised me if my Markhor did not have a " After Market Internally Adjustable" label/sticker this could not be done, they were wrong :) Did it yesterday, THANK YOU for showing how simple this is to do. I did order pre-bath lube before I saw your video, now I'll save it for when its time to overhaul my Markhor. And a excellent comment below by Raymond IIano regarding topping off the damper oil.

[@ZShaners]

Am i reading correctly that the 26" model can't be adjusted and only the 27.5 and 29 are adjustable? Looking to get a 26" markhor for my kids 24" bike. thanks

[@cletussurfsalot7190]

Can this be done to the Manitou Minute comp 120mm fork. I’d love to lower it to 100mm

[@sergiocabrera291]

Thank you so much, I did it yesterday and it was super quick. Super easy, I just followed your steps. Thank you

[@markewoldt27]

Thank you so much! Your video still very much relevant.

[@ThatKidSmokey]

This video was great! I did the whole process in about 15 minutes with only a pair of adjustable pliers. Thank you for the help!

[@rodzor]

Damn it still took me forever to get it aligned. A zip tie compressing the fork and harder pressure than I thought was needed was the trick. That sucked lol. Lost some of the oil and grease but not all of it thanks for the tips here.

[@xdmatt1320]

Do you have that one with a tapper ?

[@scrooge1913]

Is there anything you can do to change the crown to axle? This fork is a little taller than the one I replaced it with and it seems to be throwing off the geometry just a bit.

[@RubenRC94]

Great video, got a new bike with a Markhor and did the change to 120mm. I was a bit afraid of not getting the hole to line up but everything worked great. For everyone having trouble. Sticking a 1/4 extention in the top keeps the cartridge from rotating when tightening or loosening the drain plug. I then pushed it out using the same extention (screwdriver). When everything is out just remove the spacer and reinstall. you need to line it up a bit and push it ALL THE WAY down. I used the end of a breaker bar. Carefully thread in the plug and you're good to go

[@BareBackBroncos]

This worked for me thank you for the advice!!!! I got lucky and it aligned in one shot with use the extension to rotate the rod.

[@syedhazlanizhamsyidabdulla5942]

Hi, where can i get those spacers?

[@Bonjour-World]

Does removing/adding the spacers change the fork length (relaxed, crown to center of the axle)?

[@thenewmedic]

Yes

[@oiyo5124]

Left side of my stanchion developed a small amount of loose play. Is this acceptable? Can you advise on what to do? Thank You very much Sir. Very nice and helpful video.

[@Fixingeverthingwithaengine567]

Thanks very informative and detailed.Ive had my fork for a week now.

[@deasonbaybayan8818]

Aloha I would like to thank you for your manitou markhor spacer removal video. I was able to remove the spacer from my shocks with minimal problems thanks to your video. The minor hold ups was the removal and installing the oil plug. I was able to remove it by holding the rod compressing the shocks then unscrewing it, no problem. To reinstall the plug need to line everything up with the plug hole then compress the shock then screw the plug back in, no problem. Mahalo for your video and comments it really helped me.

[@mtbbiker6401]

How did you keep the rod from spinning? I had to use a socket with an extension and place it on the cross shaped spline at the top of the rod. Had to remove the top cap and piston to access the rod then hold it with a socket while unscrewing the lower bolt. Did the same to install it.

[@deasonbaybayan8818]

By compressing the shock I was able to hold the rod with my finger and the plug came off I did the same thing when I installed the plug the plug has a really light torque holding with your fingers you cannot over torque it

[@deasonbaybayan8818]

Took my bike for a 2 hour ride to checkout the adjusted forks to see how it rides, and noticed that the air pressure that I used previously to adjusting the forks was to high. I read that some of the comments also agrees with this, I lowered air pressure by 10 psi and it seems to ride better. This adjustment was supposed to slacken the head angle by 1 degree I couldn’t really tell if it did but it feels different in a better way. The trail that I ride has a 2 feet straight up from ground to top and another 1 foot rise all in rocks with a 10 feet drop on one side all in rocks for about 50 feet. I would struggle with my old suntour shocks with the adjusted markhor it made this section so much easier

[@mtbbiker6401]

Thanks for the info. I’m still playing around with the psi but agree you have to reduce the psi to take advantage of the increased travel. I’ll start with setting sag to 25% and go from there. I’m currently running about 75 psi.

[@DeynWesna]

can you go from 100mm to 120mm with a manitou machete?

[@lacasadelvideojuego3880]

Yesss

[@mrupholsteryman]

Question...I am wondering (before I buy this fork) I have an older 26 inch bike and I have a used fork that won't fit... So my question is I noticed the stopper rubber also had some length to it...if I had a very sharp knife and cut some of that length (say another 10mm?) Would this be able to go 130?? Thanks for any insight! I stripped the bike all the way to the frame....and now....the fork won't fit...(cuz I assumed after the bearing race cup for the headset was out of the way I would have more clearance...but I was wrong...boohoo.

[@natanaellorenzi5]

Is this the same for the Manitou Machette/Marvel Comp?

[@emirhan030]

watch at 3:30 and listen good

[@sethjohnson6074]

Trying to install the drain plug unsuccessfully. I look through the hole and see a red boot. Is the cartridge supposed to fit through the red boot or are we to compress the red boot from the top and thread the bolt once it’s compressed?

[@leehyson9831]

Great video buddy. I've got the 100mm model (boost width and thru-axle version). I will be following your video to achieve the extra 20mm of travel. (The lack of oil is quite surprising though). Thanks for the video.

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Hey Lee, definitely has oil but if done without picking it up from a flat position you won't lose any oil. Hit us up if you have any troubles at the textline. 636-255-4715. Good luck

[@leehyson9831]

@@takeahikeshop7486 Many thanks for your reply. It's a great tip to get the full 120mm travel. I will be extra cautious to keep my forks flat when i do the conversion. Thank you.

[@takeahikeshop7486]

@@leehyson9831 I believe it is 15 milliliters of synthetic 5w-40 but I would have to verify that.

[@leehyson9831]

@@takeahikeshop7486 Thank you for the info. I will let you know how the swap goes.....(i will be doing it tonight). Cheers.

[@stefanschmal8984]

@@takeahikeshop7486 nice Video! Thinking about to buy this fork to use it with my xc. Where i have to add the additional oil? Is it possible to add it through the oil-plug at the bottom or at the top of the fork? Sorry but never done it bevor 🙈Thanks in advance 👍🏻

[@scottkeappock5574]

I'm only getting like 100m of travel on my markhor, took it apart to take out the travel spacers but there wasn't any there. I have no idea why I'm not getting full travel. Any ideas would be much appreciated

[@lucasparenteau6085]

I have the same problem, did you figure it out?

[@scottkeappock5574]

@@lucasparenteau6085 I took apart the other leg and I think a pocket of air had built up in it which wasn't allowing the fork to compress. Haven't ridden it much since. I think it's starting to build back up again. (Not a suspension mechanic so I could be completely wrong!)

[@lucasparenteau6085]

@@scottkeappock5574 so you just took it apart and put it back together? what did you take apart? Was it just undoing the compression knob and putting it back on or did you take apart the damper?

[@pigiron666]

seems like the rebound dampening isn't working well i just installed a day ago and wanted to set it, is the rebound damping limited or should i change to a higher viscosity fluid?

[@branimirjelavic8330]

tip* use zip tie to keep fork compressed all the way in so you don't have to keep it pressed against the wall all the time, it makes job so much easier. i got question tho: i managed to allign rod with plug and i screwed it in fine, nice and firm. but then it reaches point when it can't be screwed in any further, it just keeps rotating. is this normal?

[@g.p.ciancio6527]

I bought one after seeing this as well. Just got it in yesterday but I'm having an issue where the oil bolt just spins freely both ways. I tried loosening the bolt with air 120 psi while compressing the fork with no luck. Sent a text, and I look forward to getting up to 120mm. Thanks for the awesome demo!

[@mtbbiker6401]

You’ll have to remove the top cap and piston to use a socket with an extension to keep the rod from rotating. The rod has a cross pattern spline at the top in the air chamber. After removing the top cap, you can easily remove the piston by compressing the fork. The piston should pop out. Then you have access to the splined rod. Can’t remember what size socket I used but I found one that fit the cross snugly. Using an extension and socket wrench I was able to keep the rod from rotating while loosening the lower bolt. I had to use the same method to tighten the bolt.

[@simeonsmith3646]

@@mtbbiker6401 This! Thanks! I managed to get mine loosened, but I can’t get it tightened back up to torque! It feels like everything is spinning after a certain point! I will give this a go! Thanks!

[@abdelfahad3610]

Can i adjust my mantiou machete from 100 to 80mm?

[@kevinHernandez-wk2vr]

Hi sorry I have a question what type of oil I need use in te down of my suspensión Is a manitou machete

[@Kilvington_racing]

Did you take the oil out of the fork?

[@FightFilms]

Just ordered one from you, after seeing this video!

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Fight Film thanks a ton for watching and for the order! Dont hesitate to reach out if you hit a snag when doin the travel adjustment. Text line 636-255-4715.

[@phorest]

Please clarify - can this be done on the 26" version? Or only on the 27.5 and 29"?

[@PaDaZ83]

i think its the 26" version in the video. have the same fork as 26" and decals are the same. The 27.5" has a different decals (Chrome MANITOU letters from up to bottom, on the front side of the fork). Thinking about changing travel on my fork the next days when weather keeps being that sh!tty

[@UkradliMiRolki]

ok i took apart my markhor and there is no any red spacer inside, only this black rubber. However with romoved plastick white stick with this black rubber on it maximum travel is still 100mm. any help ?

[@mentos12ul]

Was yours a 26" fork? Because I did the same with mine and found no spacer. Looking on the website now it does say that the 26 inch variant is only 80-100 sadly

[@colinl2908]

Same for me, no spacer just black rubber. The box had a spacer in it, most likely to reduce it to 80mm. Maybe a manufacturing issue and was made as 120mm? (they forgot to put spacer on?) BTW 29er version

[@joehozzy2616]

great video. thank you

[@chrisbartett8696]

The method works great up until putting the rod back in. I can't get it last inch down the leg to meet the bolt. Looking up the leg there is a white tube floating around, this looks to be the problem. Is the rod meant to go inside this? Any tips?

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Chris Bartett did u get it worked out?

[@chrisbartett8696]

@@takeahikeshop7486 Yes I think I did. I put a 5mm Allen key up from the bottom to wiggle the rod in order to line it up, whilst pushing from the top. The plug screw then began to tighten but then didn't feel like it got tight (if that makes sense). There was a bit if play at the stantion to start which I got out by tightening top cap and plug bolt a bit. Seems to be better now. I do need to replace my headset bearing which have play so it is hard to be 100% sure where the play is. There is a slight knock when I unweight the forks now which is a little unnerving. Also I am running fairly low pressure (80psi, I weigh 70 kilos) and don't seem to be using more than 90mm-100mm of travel still. I'm yet to jump it or take any bit hits since, so I'm wondering if the reason for the still limited travel might be that long rubber seal? Any thoughts?

[@mtbbiker6401]

You may not have tightened the lower bolt all the way. The compression rod will just spin since there’s nothing keeping it from rotating. I used a socket with an extension from the top with valve cover and piston removed to keep the rod from spinning while tightening the lower bolt. The rod had a cross shaped spline on the top that I was able to keep from spinning by putting a socket on it. Having 100psi of pressure in the chamber might keep it from spinning also.

[@rorymurphy27]

5 year old video . i just bought this shock . is this a bad sign

[@luisfelipehissa9026]

Can I do the same process in the manitou machete comp,to increase the travel to 120mm??

[@RedG305]

No luck for me removing the drain plug, it just keeps spinning, I tried to do it by hand and moving back and forth to snap the o ring out and nothing. Tried pliers but started damaging the screw so I stopped. Can’t believe how easy yours came out

[@reindeerss]

Hey guys, any tips when aligning the plug???? It’s a major pain in the butt and I’m at wits end trying to align the damn thing 😩😩😩

[@reindeerss]

Was finally able to do it, used a strap to compress the fork fully and then mounted it on using my bike stand horizontally. Takes quite a bit of force to get the rod through

[@mariorodriquez]

Thanks for the video, helped a lot, took me about 20min or so, but 1 question, i lost a couple drops of oil ,like 4 or 5 drops, is that a big problem?

[@vangaspar]

Take A Hike Shop great info video, one more question: if I remove the spacer from the air cylinder piston to obtain 120mm, can i use it on the upper empty space as a volume spacer token without affecting the travel?

[@user-fr2io9hj2d]

No

[@user-fr2io9hj2d]

Actually maybe

[@user-fr2io9hj2d]

You should try

[@mtbbiker6401]

The spacer will fit in the air chamber but might reduce the travel. Try it.

[@FlimFlamvanHam]

Thanks. And love the advice in last 40 seconds.

[@possumsquid50]

But is it something you should do? is more travel better in this case?

[@bradbeckham1993]

This conversion on applies to the 27.5 and 29 Version of this fork according to the manufacturer. The 26 version is 100 max.

[@tougeattack123]

i always use some thick nylon betwin the socket and the screw head to keep the paint in good condition.i do this in my motorcycles to

[@Smkbailey]

I have a manitou circus expert 26 inch fork 120mm. Can I reduce the travel to 100mm?

[@johnedlineclavia3220]

Is it possible to adjust 140mm?

[@josereneducharme142]

Great info, no ego.

[@stephenpuchniak7524]

Nice Demo - Thank you

[@bradweaver6124]

This fork is delivering to my house today and is my first "real" fork. What pressure should I be putting back into the fork after removing the spacer? (fork pump delivered already this morning). I'm a 180lb 6'0" rider if that matters for pressure.

[@user-fr2io9hj2d]

I would look at the chart at the bottom of the fork, and add or let out air depending on how it feels. Go off of feel, not psi.

[@zenith22]

My oil drain plug just keeps spinning. Help plz!

[@zenith22]

U got it...found it in the comments...socket ext. worked from keeping it spinning. Sweet.

[@damiandiazromero5670]

Hi. Awesome video. I bought the manitou fork to upgrade my trek 930 single track (classic steel frame ) but once I installed it the geometry change completely, kind of unstable in the hills. I’ve been looking for the spacer that I need in order to reduce it to 80 mm. Any idea where could I find it ?

[@jstar1000]

If you went from a ridged fork to a shock, that is the problem. Your bike was not designed for a suspension fork which throws everything off. When going from a suspension fork on a bike that originally came with one you have to buy a ridged suspension adjusted fork which is about 100mm longer so you don't screw up the geometry but going the other direction like you did there is no option. Your frame is off or lifted by about 100 mm with the suspension fork.

[@napsonvillejameslannu6761]

hello how am i able to make it 80mm travel? thnx

[@fadonoso]

Hi guys!!! My mechanic here in Ecuador (really amateur) removed the spacer of my markhor but now the stacionary travel is 140 mm. I said to him that is not possible but he is clueless. Could someone give me some advice please.

[@pinoyakousa1382]

I'm following your video on this fork but I'm losing the oil from the bottom because I put upright so I need to add oil on it and also I don't have long bar to push the inside.

[@OYeahan]

Hi. I bought Manitou Markhor Boost and want to adjust it to 120mm for plusher ride. After checking the service guide I see that there is a difference in damper oil level for 100-120mm conversion - it lists 92mm for 80-100mm and 97mm for 120mm. Does that mean I should add some oil after changing the travel, or there is no need to open up the damper till first service?

[@mtbbiker6401]

Yes, technically you should add damper oil to achieve 97mm of oil height. 97mm of oil height actually equals less oil than 92mm of oil height given the same damper oil compartment dimension. Since extending the fork another 20mm, it makes the damper oil compartment taller requiring additional oil to achieve 97mm oil height.

[@mtbbiker6401]

I had to add about 5mL of damper oil to achieve 97mm oil height with the fork fully extended.

[@luisd7706]

will this change the axle to crown? whats the max width tire i can put

[@mtbbiker6401]

Yes. Crown to axle length is increased by 20mm. This might slacken your headtube by 1 degree. I read that every 10mm increase in height roughly equals 1/2 degree.

[@Overlordick]

Can't understand why is it came adjusted to 100mm?

[@emilyarelyvictor1]

Just pick up a markhor m30. Im testing air pressure, im 175 pound heavy, im tryng the air pressures as it sow on the sticker. So far no luck. Im running now 110psi it seems to soft still. Can i add more air and be safe without damaging the forks? I like a firm ride.

[@jasonmccrocklin9498]

Find a you tube video on setting air for sag

[@jasonbourne2852]

Great video thankyou so much.

[@mtbbiker6401]

George Clooney does bike repair! Seriously thanks for the video. The manual lists a different damper oil height for 120mm vs 100mm. The oil height is listed as 97mm for 120 and 92mm for 80/100. The oil height is the air space between the top of the oil and top of the fork leg. This should be measured with the compression damper removed. Removing the spacer extends the compression rod and rebound assembly, therefore increasing the size of the air chamber and damper chamber so you’ll most likely need to add damper oil to achieve 97mm oil height.

[@davidleal7133]

Actually you have to remove some but this video did work but now the lockout doesn’t

[@mtbbiker6401]

I performed the 120mm conversion using this method and my lockout still works. I haven’t messed with the damper compartment yet. I’m going to check my oil height tomorrow and will report back.

[@davidleal7133]

@@mtbbiker6401 I read more into it and add oil probably I plan on rebuilding it with the upgraded abs + but will wait until early next year

[@mtbbiker6401]

I had to add only about 5mL of fork oil to the damper compartment. Very little that I doubt it will make any difference. My lockout still works. Did you get yours sorted? Kind of wish I had gone with R7 fork with ABS+ damper instead of Markhor. Oh well, price was good and I can upgrade to ABS+ in future if I can find the part.

[@davidleal7133]

No the fork worked fine before and what I read it does make a difference since the fork is very low mile and since I didn’t take apart the damper side that’s my next step so I might source some fluid.

[@andrewm190E]

That"s a great video and thanks for posting it up

[@josemarihernan9551]

Hi I like your’e video, can you make another video on how to service the manitou fork? It would a lot easier for us to servie for our own fork. Like DIY THANKS MAN.

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Thanks for watching! I would love to provide that for you all. Next time I service one I will try to get a good recording for ya!

[@piciu256]

I believe there are some videos out there, by Manitou, they are all built essentially the same- even if bolt sizes differ, all you need to check is the oil level for that perticular fork model/year.

[@slab_bulkhead_]

Just did this, pretty easy to do. Like he says, you twist the cartridge a little bit to get it further down the leg. Then pop in the white cap and ram it down the tube (I used an Allen key) by doing this I didn't need to push in an allen key down the other end to find the threads

[@justinwebb4219]

What psi do you pump the fork to?

[@petehueyenriquez2638]

Hope you have a video on manitou marvel comp, and how many oils should you put in

[@eatsleepswimbait1494]

Is the same for the marvel and minute models?

[@przemeksmouch8279]

hi, I bought the machete boost 27.5+/29 120mm version, that's correct what I can adjust the travel to 100mm - it's possible?(info in Manitou page only 110mm)

[@brinleyclement1952]

Sick i have a marlin and I’ve uprgarded the drivetrain brakes and everything else and I broke the original back wheel and nothing is stock and I’m looking for a fork upgrade

[@denniskulev7027]

Thanks man helped a lot !!!

[@jjr1314]

Great video! Great shop!

[@mattdoyle4598]

After you take the spacer out is the fork 20mm longer?

[@mattdoyle4598]

Is this the same for the the Markhor boost fork?

[@takeahikeshop7486]

yes and yes. thanks for watching

[@jahca]

Nice man. Thank for the advices and for the video it self. Very enlightening. DO you consider this fork durable as the rock shox one's?

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Matheus Martins more durable and reliable at that price point

[@randychavez1348]

is it safe to remove the spacer and do not affect the performance of the fork. Just wondering because I'm also using Manitou M-Thirty and I want to adjust the travel to 120.

[@mtbbiker6401]

Manitou lists damper oil height for M30 120mm in their online service guide so it must be okay.

[@jokent5514]

How did everyone get the rod back in? I can't get it to catch the oil cap at all and it's driving me crazy.

[@KRLinger]

You may have figured out your issue already, but I also had a hell of a time when I did this. My issue was a large rubber "washer" that's shaped like a section of a cone. it got flipped over upon removal of the compression assembly, and I had no idea. Once I got it flipped over, it went back together WAY easier.

[@mtbbiker6401]

Using the method shown in this video, you have to line up the compression rod to pass through a rubber cone washer and a white plastic spacer. This can be challenging especially if the rubber washer flips over inside the fork leg. You have to use a rod or allen key to realign the internal components and slide the compression rod through the rubber washer and spacer while compressing the fork. I was able to do it after multiple attempts. It probably would have been easier to separate the lower and upper fork as described in the owner’s manual.

[@sethjohnson6074]

@@KRLinger how did you flip the inner washer?

[@francisdonsmg6819]

Is this more stiff then a rochshox recon silver ?

[@francisdonsmg6819]

Update I bought this shock for my new build hype!!

[@DavidGamero]

@@francisdonsmg6819 *fork

[@mmicha100]

thanks for tutorial, i have just one question i bought this fork with information on box - 100mm travel. After unboxing i have one red pad extra added to fork. So i supposed my fork is without this pad inside and my travel is 120mm at begining? or this extra pad is to put to fork to another pad that is alredy inside from factory setup and finaly i will be have two pad to achieve 80mm travel? :) so glad for reply it will be save me work to unscrew fork and se how many pad is inside on begining :)

[@takeahikeshop7486]

Mariusz Michalak that spacer is to add to make it an 80mm. It came as a 100mm

[@mmicha100]

@@takeahikeshop7486 thanks!

[@sudisha2009]

Thanks for the nice Video. I'm planning to switch to Manitou Markhor fork myself for my hardtail 29ner. Although there is no distributor for Manitou in my Country (Nepal) but I look forward to importing from India or China. I am a little worried about the genuineness of the product. Any suggestion on Price and Distributor would be helpful. Thanks again.

[@philphish1643]

Does this also go for the markhor with boost spacing?

[@patlilburn7432]

Just got my fork from you all, Can't seem to get the air spring plug out from the bottom of the lower? It spins but doesn't feel loose at all and doesn't feel like it tightens either. No luck with a pair of vice grips trying to grab it out after trying to loosen with socket wrench, any suggestions? Was able to get the air piston out which exposed the top tapered plastic piece of the air spring assembly, as I try to loosen the plug again I can visually see the top of the air spring rotating with the socket wrench so the drain bolt will not disengage.

[@annick3]

Hi dude, same problem here. Did you get to manage it at the end? How? Thanks!

[@mtbbiker6401]

I had the same problem. The compression rod just spins. I didn’t try it with air pressure in the chamber. I used a socket with extension to keep the compression rod from spinning. I found a socket that fit the cross pattern spline of the compression rod. Silly design if you ask me. I guess that’s why this fork is so cheap!

[@alfredohernandezlara3848]

Nice tutorial man! Thanx! Question, would you deliver to Mexico?