How to Change Mountain Bike Forks | Silent Shop

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

About Silent Shop: No talk - just maintenance. This video is for you if; 1.You’d like to learn a new skill in a short time, 2. You already know how, but would like to watch how someone else does it (and maybe learn something new or teach us something new), or 3. You just like the zen of bicycle maintenance.

[@YosefElgart]

1:05 how call this things i need buy them

[@taylorclarke2550]

No unnecessary talking. Just how to do it. Best video ever

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thank you! -Eddie

[@kokoyhawaii]

Best how-to video I've ever seen, thank you!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Wow, thanks! -Eddie

[@AviationAngler]

I love the way you don't talk ngl at first I didn't like it but the way I can see what your doing and play it out in my head really helps me visualize doing it myself as I know most of what to do just needed a refresher thank you for the quality vid sir

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I appreciate that! -Eddie

[@DanielIliev-xt8qd]

@@SimplyMountainBiking what was the strap that you used to hold the fork in place is that like a flexible tie?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

@@DanielIliev-xt8qd It's a Gear Tie by Nite Ize niteize.com/gear-tie-reusable-rubber-twist-tie?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsoe5BhDiARIsAOXVoUuGO5Jki1aXLvrirDqWxLs87KeA847mNqPWOvz6liCYFJdsJbC5St8aAj39EALw_wcB#?&color=74&length_in=84

[@try_everything-]

The greatest and smartest teachers I ever had growing up were all stone silent in the classroom! Incredible way to learn

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Cool! -Eddie

[@MarioGoatse]

Used this guide to switch out my X-Fusion air forks for a much better set of Marzocchi Z2 Bomber's, and it went perfectly. The only thing I think you could do better, is to show where exactly you should cut, in relation to your steerer height, and how deep a star nut should go, but it's not meant to be a full guide, so that's cool. Really appreciated this video though. Thanks so much

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thank you for your suggestions! -Eddie

[@Favelapat]

Did you install with previous parts of did you purchase new headset? Thanks!

[@MarioGoatse]

@@Favelapat I actually did both. I first used the original headset, but then i later upgraded it to a Cane Creek 40 Series. The cane creek feels much better, but the original headset looks nicer as it was designed for the bike

[@NIIXXTREME]

AMAZING and flawless, perfect, efficient and precise work. NO TALKING, so much better than listening to senseless blabbing nonsense. EXCELLENT, SUPERB VIDEO!!!! Thank you. Visual demonstrations are always the best. The worst KZbinrs just DUNNO when to shut up. Splendid work sir.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I'm glad you appreciate the silent approach! -Eddie

[@imumba4321]

I was about to do it myself with a Hacksaw then realised that you need more precision tools especially to fine tune ...will just take to my local co-op bike workshop!!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Glad I could be of help! -Eddie

[@__Natur222]

Fr man pounding the one nut in the top of the head tupe is the one thing that scares me cause I don’t have the right tool😂

[@sekorak]

Great video! Full of tips even it is silent. *thumbsup!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks! -Eddie

[@bakayaro117]

At 1:23 what is that piece called that you dropped onto the steerer tube?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Hi - it's called the lower bearing race. -Eddie

[@Favelapat]

Did you install using existing hardware?

[@saviourofrockandroll]

Good to know the Magnum Pro easily fits a 29 x 3.0" DHF, which is the same tire I run out front. I plan to mount a Yari on my fat/plus rig with upgraded internals, essentially transforming it into a Pike. I think the Yari should have enough clearance for tire widths up to 3.25".

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Yes - the Yari cleared 3.25 - Eddie

[@saviourofrockandroll]

@@SimplyMountainBiking Awesome, thanks! I have a Bulldozer in reserve that I'll try running with the Yari.

[@mlb6d9]

Question: You marked your steer tube at the top of the top spacer, then when you put it back together somehow it was slightly below the top of that spacer. What did I miss?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Ah - great catch! I didn't capture that part! I made my cut on the bottom of that line to ensure the neck did not extend beyond the spacer. Great eye! -Eddie

[@mlb6d9]

@@SimplyMountainBiking Cool, Thanks - I ask because I'm getting ready to put on a new fork and I'm just finalizing the proper procedure (never cut one down before) I've found that we're supposed to leave 3mm or so gap up top to give room for the star nut to draw things tight.

[@TazErrant]

@@SimplyMountainBiking Thanks!. Glad someone asked that. I was wondering the same. 😃 I'm putting on new Manitou forks and just making sure I've got everything 100% figured out before I start.

[@nighttime9539]

Great video. Couple of questions if you're able to assist: 1) I'm installing a straight steerer fork into a tapered headtube (budget upgrade). The new fork is straight 1-1/8'', and my current (stock) fork is tapered 1-1/5''. What kind of adapter do I have to use for that type of setup? 2) Did you reuse the old star nut, or did you buy a new one for your new fork?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

1 - I have never done this before. 2 - I used a new star nut. -Eddie

[@rossejera1661]

its a crown race reducer. Same one they use in trek roscoe 6 bikes. Star nuts come with a new fork. If not, they are easy to find and not expensive. Dont use the old one, too much work to remove it and you basically need a long shaft or rod to hammer it all the way down potentially breaking it

[@rlopez9044]

Thank you, what type of grease did you use when installing the new fork??

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

It was Park Tool grease. -Eddie

[@MPA9]

its not 5 minutes in reality, we can say 1 hour! But it's a beautiful work!❤

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

🤣 -Eddie

[@sergiolalopez3598]

He didn't mean verbatim 😴

[@Todd-cf8nl]

There is a certain beauty to silence.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Agreed. -Eddie

[@sergiolalopez3598]

Best demo by far! Thank you ‼️‼️‼️‼️

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

You're welcome!! -Eddie

[@amateurschallenge]

Do you recommend any particular tool for the star nut? Also, what type of grees is good?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I use a Park Tool Star Nut Driver. Grease could be a contentious topic. :D -Eddie

[@ochoonda]

Hi Eddie. May I know the name of the piece @2:34. Is it from the new or old fork and do you need a special tool to insert it back in? Thanks.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Hi! It is a star nut. I used a star nut driver from Park Tool. The star nut is relatively inexpensive. If you don't want to use the Park Tool star nut driver, you can buy an inexpensive carriage bolt. Good luck!

[@garylord7202]

Some great tips, the zip tie around the brake calliper was one of those, why didn't I think of that moments. Have you got a link for those bendy pipes you used? Thanks for sharing

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I use Nite Ize Gear Ties - I'll put a link in the description! -Eddie

[@YoungBoom3r]

Awesome content! Doing this now. I bought a lightly used fork and the steerer tube was precut, but in my case, 9mm too long. Glad it was too long and not too short, but it doesnt seem like a huge deal. Should i just try to get a 9mm spacer or torque it all down and run it?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I guess it depends on how high you want your bars to be? -Eddie

[@Dutcharmytent]

Such a perfect video , learnt so much.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Glad you enjoyed it! -Eddie

[@volkhen0]

what's the purpose of the distance ring above the stem and under top cap? future compatibility with other frames?

[@1155727]

If you ever crash in a way that allows your body to make contact with that part, the protruding steerer augments the learning effect... (I am not making this up!).

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I will adjust my stem up or down depending on the type of riding I am going to do. On a bikepacking trip, I want to sit more upright and relaxed. On a race, I want to be slightly more bent over and aggressive. -Eddie

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

It does present a 'knob' to bump into in a wreck - but I'm already riding a bike with a lot of other crap that can hurt me in a wreck too. Ever land on a frickin' pedal? :P -Eddie

[@emteebee1872]

This is a great, no frills video, thank you! Quick question, hoping you can see this: I’m looking to replace my fork with one that has a much shorter steerer tube. It would come to the point where I’d have to get rid of all spacers. Would it be ok if I don’t use any spacers below the stem? As in no spacers at all? I’ve been reading online where many people say it’s either ok to not have any spacers at all or to have at least one spacer below the stem. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I don't think it's necessary to have any spacers below the stem. Go for it! -Eddie

[@Karthik_95]

I am big fan love your vids keeps it up

[@Karthik_95]

I also made a vid like that here

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks - will do! -Eddie

[@Sooch67]

Great video.. right to the point with no bs. I just replaced mine and noticed that there is a little bit of slack between the fork and the frame (when you slide the fork into the frame... where the two meet there), it's loose and i can't seem to get it to tighten up so when i brake, it rocks forward very slightly but enough to affect riding, and likely not great for the fork or the frame. Any idea what I might be doing wrong and what i can do to tighten it up?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

At the top bearing, bottom bearing, or both? -Eddie

[@Sooch67]

@@SimplyMountainBiking bottom bearing. Thanks for the quick response!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

@@Sooch67 It could be a number of reasons. Did you re-use your old bearing, or did you install a new one? You installed the crown race? -Eddie

[@Sooch67]

@@SimplyMountainBiking well, I thought I put everything back as it was, but I clearly missed something. Gonna take it apart again and make sure I got everything correct. Thanks

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

@@Sooch67 Let us know what you find! -Eddie

[@Kareszkoma]

How trustable are quick releases? I have an old bike, with a quick release. Is there a chance it would release the wheel while going?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I've not had that issue. I check mine frequently and tighten as needed, though. -Eddie

[@Kareszkoma]

@@SimplyMountainBiking Hmmm. Maybe I should too. Thanks!

[@HexBeatz]

Would of helped to know the names of parts and tools for someone who’s never done it befor

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

That's a very good point. I'll likely keep these silent if I do more - but I may add overlays with labels. -Eddie

[@daithiquirke847]

I swapped out my suspension and now around that area is squeakikg and coming loose every so often after i tighten it any tips ?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

check your torque settings perhaps? -Eddie

[@MortyyyFN]

What was that washer you put on the bottom part of the fork tube

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

It's a beveled bearing race. -Eddie

[@williamwade7059]

Best video ever

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks! -Eddie

[@Longevityfit]

Do new forks come with the crown race part? Are all crown race parts the same? The part he installs at 1’22”.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I'm unsure if all forks come with the crown race. Every fork I have bought (maybe 4?) has. -Eddie

[@santacruzer]

Forks don't come with the crown race, but it will come with the headset as it must match up with the lower headset cup (if external).

[@LoneLYListener_]

Do you use the same rings from the previous suspension?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Yep - I don't sweat it if the parts don't look excessively worn. - Eddie

[@LoneLYListener_]

@@SimplyMountainBiking ok thanks

[@WoodyMTB87.]

Great video 👍 but what is the part called that you hammered in to the top of the fork? And the tool used to force it down the tube please. Mine has come loose and needs replacing. Any replies would be much appreciated

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Star Nut, Star Nut Driver. :) Good luck! - Eddie

[@WoodyMTB87.]

Top man. Thanks 👍

[@Yes-sw8gh]

What a wonderful channel.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thank you! -Eddie

[@Dmoney4183]

I bought the 80 dollar bucklos forks and installing them on a fragment 500 ozone but the forks shake a little inside the stem part, any way to fix that

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Sorry - I'm unsure. -Eddie

[@osceolaseminole5596]

Very good video. thank you.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thank you too! -Eddie

[@youling1997]

Why did you use assembly paste instead of grease?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

I used a Park Tool grease. -Eddie

[@MegaPele22]

Can you tell me how many newtons you tighten the fork bolt to?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

It's only a slight 4nm... It's just meant to hold the fork in place - it's the stem/stem bolts that really hold the fork. -Eddie

[@GrizDrummer25]

thanks for this!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

You bet! -Eddie

[@AnshunHE]

Wondering how much torque would you put on the top cap bolt?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

4-5Nm -Eddie

[@AnshunHE]

@@SimplyMountainBiking thanks for the tip!

[@1155727]

That should not be done up to a specific torque, but it really depends on the bearing... you do not want slack in the bearings, but neither do you want it under a lot of pressure, because that would damage the bearings. So you basically need to "dial it in" to have a headset bearing that rotates freely without being loose. Then you fully tighten the stem to its specified torque. Once that is done, and the bearing therefore set, make sure the cap is tight against the stem. (With all due respect, the way it is shown in this video - screwing down the cap to a set torque before tightening the stem - is wrong IMHO, as it risks damaging the bearing at worst, or ending up with a headset that does not rotate freely at best.)

[@dillonencinia2729]

Thank you!!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

You're welcome! -Eddie

[@BaggerPRO]

Nice!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks! -Eddie

[@PNW_Phillip]

What is the orange piece that goes on the stem bolt?

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Are you referring to the top cap? Mine's a mount for a Wahoo. -Eddie

[@boomer6611]

F*ckit! I'll call Eddie up and have him do mine. The dude obviously knows what he is doing!

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks! -Eddie

[@chriss4365]

Why is the replacement tube longer? you shouldn't have to cut that, the new part should match oem measurements.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

The replacement was not OEM and was made to fit many different bikes. -Eddie

[@alistairmacrae4870]

5 minutes? I will pay the guys in the bike shop to do the necessary.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Haha! 5 minute video, not work time! :) -Eddie

[@Kareszkoma]

So.. My problem is. Someone welded the brakes, onto the telescopes of the first wheel. The weld is letting the brakes go, which will fall off, and the telescope doesn't work.. obviously. So I want to replace it, with a normal, more primitive type, that has no telescope or quick release, but a space for the brakes, a proper attachment point, or properly installable attachment point. Hence I'm here.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Sounds like a problem! -Eddie

[@Kareszkoma]

@@SimplyMountainBiking A massive one. I'm replacing the back brake, should work.

[@rejvexplx449]

He put the suspension fork on the wrong side 😅.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

What did I do wrong? -Eddie

[@rejvexplx449]

@@SimplyMountainBiking the connecting bridge should be at the front.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

@@rejvexplx449 Oh, no. Manitou forks are backward. Check into it! -Eddie

[@dim3356]

That was NOT 5 minutes. 😂 But thanks.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Haha! Edited to 5 minutes. Likely took an hour? (but I was also recording) -Eddie

[@magicmaddox]

I thought was gunna be easy rip

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

It wasn't? -Eddie

[@drvonschwartz]

If that didn't seem easy you should take your bike to a shop.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

@@drvonschwartz I agree! -Eddie

[@dlastmohican71]

And nothing about crown race removal and installation😂

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

No need to remove on the old fork. Installation on new fork is 1:23. - Eddie

[@mlb6d9]

@@SimplyMountainBiking You forgot the laughing with tears emoji

[@31acruz]

Liked the whole video except the part you were banging on that headset down the fork spindle, that was dumb and not what you should encourage people to do, have a setter or buy a $2 Home depot/Lowes 2" PVC pipe and bang on that, but don't bang on the headset directly that was not cool.

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

A plastic mallet is quite safe... -Eddie

[@pcarts232]

Hey I just took my 2021 Orbea Rise to Fox service centre to get the fork and shock serviced but they removed them and gave me the bike back ! 😢is it easy for me to fit the fork and shock back onto the bike or would you recommend taking the whole bike back to them to fit the shock and fork back on?

[@martinchapman1032]

Its pretty easy just need some allen keys. Knowing what to torque each bolt to is the harder part. If your unsure just bring it with you. It won't take them more than 10 minutes.

[@pcarts232]

@@martinchapman1032 yeah they emailed me and said “ it’s not something we usually do we’re not a bike shop” but I took it back anyway and they put the suspension back on the bike foc so I’m happy with that. Can’t say I notice any difference whatsoever after the full service at £274! But I’m assuming it’s good to get them serviced after a year of riding it 👍🏾

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Glad you got the help you needed. -Eddie

[@pcarts232]

Awesome video. New sub 👍🏾

[@SimplyMountainBiking]

Thanks for the sub! -Eddie

[@pcarts232]

@@SimplyMountainBiking I just had my Fox shock and forks serviced at Fox Uk £279 and they don’t feel any different! Maybe I need to learn to do it myself!