How To Change Your Oil BETTER THAN THE DEALERSHIP!!

In this video I show the basics of an oil change and talk about why it may be better, to change your own oil, than taking your vehicle to the dealership.
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**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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[@Pendaws]

Brilliant that you told people to LUBRICATE the seal on the filter before trying to screw it on, I have seen MANY mechanics NOT do this. Thanks mate.

[@simonpickering3609]

They are not mechanics..

[@nitroustommy3668]

Probably because the flange has oil all over it.

[@markbeaulieu8004]

@@nitroustommy3668 Exactly! No need to pre oil the seal when the flange is covered in oil!

[@tjlee9901]

@@markbeaulieu8004 r u sure ?

[@dontknow6465]

I support the current thing

[@Mr.Preston3991]

I work at Goodyear and we do everything (mostly tires and oild changes). I'm fairly new to this place and always do things by the book and try to make the customers happy. However, my coworkers and managers do not perform some tasks that customers paid for. An example would be a tire package with tpms rebuild kits and alignment check. Note, these are all included in the package! What ends up happening instead is they'll get new tires and that's it. I can only imagine how bad it can be at dealerships. Unless the customer knows what is going on, people always try to take advantage of ignorance and not do what they're being paid to do!

[@robbydiesel9345]

tpms rebuild kit? lol

[@vvjkumar]

Warm oil drains better. Dont use a crescent wrench. Use the right sized wrench or socket so you dont round off the hex or bust your knuckles. Also warn newbies that sometimes the drain plug is on very tight from the factory or dealership. You may have to use a cheater bar on your wrench to loosen it. All the more reason not to us an adjustable wrench--you cannot apply sufficient torque too loosen and definitely bust your knuckles. Also it is easier to use ramps than to use jacks and jack stands.

[@bryanmartinez6600]

@Dave Micolichek you know how many 1/4 inch wrench I broke on lug nuts cause if this tip

[@x-man5056]

@Dave Micolichek never is a long time. you underestimate the stupidity of muscle bound dunderheads who work in oil change joints.

[@caiobabe]

"Warm oil drains better".....Maybe. But you get more of the old oil out if you let sit overnight and do change next day. Why start your engine and throw dirty oil to top cams and top of engine, waiting for it to come down, when a good overnight drip to bottom of pan is best way to get it all? Biggest fallacy on changing oil.

[@x-man5056]

@@caiobabe More accurately, warm oil drains faster. We must assume that the oil in the pan has already spend plenty of time going around all the engines whirly parts, so one more time doesn't matter at all but, you are correct that, if you have the time and patience to wait for all the oil to drain out, there will be less old oil left behind in the upper engine oil galleys and internal walls of the engine to flow down. Modern oil tends to be thinner than the days when we were instructed to change oil when it is warm though and I detest get hot oil running down my arm so I do mine cold also. Either way you've still got to wait until as much oil as possible is drained out. 6 in one, half dozen the other, except for that hot oil on the arm thing.

[@sausages6135]

10:35, to much oil was added. It only needs to be in the cross hatches, not an inch over the top lol. Also check your manual for the amount of time that the dipstick should be inserted for an accurate measurement, my gm 4.8 manual recommends 3 seconds, not 1. Also, running the engine before draining not only warms the oil for better drainage but picks up anything that was settled to the bottom and suspends it in the oil, giving it better chances of actually draining out.

[@robertwessel6409]

Good, but you missed the last step - starting the engine to circulate the oil through the filter, then check the oil level.

[@azarahwagner2749]

That’s a given 😉

[@dougregan4752]

That's just what I was thinking 🤔

[@BravoZulu1416]

I was thinking da same thing

[@davidstjames_]

Keep in mind that after you check the oil and put the fill cap back on, you need to start the vehicle for a moment, shut it off, and check the oil again. This is because the oil filter has not filled up with oil yet before starting it. The oil lines on some vehicles with a separate oil cooler could have drained slightly as well and after the vehicle has been started these lines will fill up again and lower the overall oil volume. Overall I think that you're making great videos. You don't know everything, nobody does. What's good is that you're not afraid to try something and learn from it while you're doing it.

[@blainemcdonald6972]

David St James I alway fill up my oil filler prior to reinstalling on the engine, thus there is not wait time and the engine get its new blood immediately

[@dannyo6699]

@@blainemcdonald6972 The vehicle depicted in the video, a 1988 to 2000 GM C/K series truck/suv, has an oil filter that mounts horizontially instead of vertically. In that case, filling the filter will result in oil running out of the filter before you can get the filter screwed onto the filter mounting plate. Even filling it half full may result in a mess. Some oil filters may even mount in at a 45 degree with the base up and some may even mount upside down. Newer Subaru filters mount this way. So if it's possible to add oil before installing the filter, then go ahead and fill it.

[@farmsgrace341]

Don't use an adjustable wrench to remove/install the drain plug. Easy way to round off a bolt head.

[@strawbandit173]

@Joey No use the correct sized socket

[@strawbandit173]

@Joey That will just flatten the head of of the bolt, just use the correct sized socket with a ratchet or breaker bar if needed. Thats the way to do it the correct way

[@x-man5056]

@@strawbandit173 Breaker bar! If you need a breaker bar to loosen the oil plug...never let the last guy touch your car again. Snug and a tug only. A socket or box end wrench best here. DO NOT crank on oil pan plug to stop a leak. If it leaks, next time, get the right size washer/gasket and maybe a few carefully wound rounds of Teflon tape on the bolt threads.

[@strawbandit173]

@@x-man5056 i use a socket but some people arent super man and need a longer bar for leverage.

[@x-man5056]

@@strawbandit173 If that's the case, you are tightening it to much. When they say a 1/4 turn after contact, they really mean ONLY 1/4 turn. Just snug, not tight. But it's a common problem, I was guilty too. Next time you change oil, be very light on the filter torque. If it leaks only tighten in small increments until it stops. If you are using a good tool it should spin right off after you break torque. I encourage you to test me. You will be surprised. But you still won't be able to break the torque without the right tool.

[@ron5935]

I stopped commercial oil changes 1973 or so. Zero issues with weird new problems cropping up I never had before. My ramps are 2x12 framing lumber, 4,5,6,foot lengths piled up with a stop at one end. Still going strong for 32 years now and they are used for perhaps 8 cars a year. Piled up means fastened with carriage bolts layer by layer. I consider this ultimate safety.

[@psdaengr911]

Same here with oil changes by others. With the money saved I used the best oil and filters available (OEM are mediocre) and did changes more often, then started doing all my brake work and whatever didn't need advanced diagnostics and tools. I wish I had the space and strength to use that solid lumber ramp solution. I don't trust the steel and/or plastic ramps for doing one man service, which is why I bought a high lift floor jack and heavier rated stands as the first accessories for my SUV. .

[@vivillager]

Figure I might throw in my own dealership experience, despite not involving an oil change. I bought a 2008 Dodge Charger at auction for $803, including fees, only issue was, the car was a No-Start and No-Run. I soon found that the engine was fine, but the key wouldn't start or even turn the engine. My scan tool coughed up a code of "Invalid Key." I did notice that the key was completely brand new, had absolutely no wear on it, and I remembered that when I got the title, it was not the original title, but a Repo-Title. So, with the help of a friend, we dragged the car to a Dodge dealership and requested that they program a key to it. So the next day I get a call "John, we programmed a key to your car for the bargain price of $398, but we need to talk. The car is unsafe to drive and it should not leave until it is made roadworthy. The shifter cable does not work, and it's dangerous to drive a vehicle that can't be placed in park. We can fix it for $800. Also the thermostat is leaking, we can fix it for $400. It's against Texas law to operate a vehicle on the highway with a faulty horn, we can fix it for $400. Also it's dangerous to drive a vehicle with faulty TPMS sensors, because otherwise you won't know if you're driving on flat tires, we can fix that for $800...." So, allow me to address the 4 issues that made the car dangerous, that was going to cost me $2,400 to fix ( in addition to the $397 key, which I'm not complaining about ). The TPMS sensors I've ordered from Amazon for $90 (all four), including shipping, and Wal-Mart has replaced those for me for $3 each. I'm not driving the Charger, I have another car, I'll just park it til then. As for the leaking Thermostat, I can't any sign of leakage, nor am I losing coolant. I borrowed a coolant pressure tester from Autozone, and it held 16 lbs overnight (about 9 hours). They were right that the horn did not work. The reason why the horn did not work was because the alarm tripped, and I didn't want to disturb the neighbors, so I disconnected the horn. Both horns are next to the A/C Condensor, and are easily accessible by opening the hood. In less than 2 minutes I plugged both horns back in and snapped both access panels back in place (no screws, they just snap in place). They wanted $400 for that. When I got the car, the key would not allow the car to shift out of park. To get the car to the dealership, I removed the trim from around the shifter to expose a bright pink button next to it, which was the emergency shift release. When I dragged it to the dealership, I pointed it out to the service advisor, he was sitting in the car and I pointed it out that to move the car the technician would need to press the emergency shifter release. When I picked up the car (that's when the shifter would no longer work), I found that instead of using the shift release to move the car, they instead disassembled the shifter, and partially reassembled it. The reason why it would not shift into park was because the shifter adjustment screw was now missing. I stopped by Lowe's hardware and picked up a screw for $0.12 and reassembled the shifter. They wanted $800 to fix that. That was my recent dealership experience.

[@aonoymousandy7467]

good job for knowing how to fix all those things yourself, dealerships take advantage of the lack of mechanical knowledge of the general population, it disappoints me, but I'm now looking into changing my own oil so that I won't have to waste money and have people that just want to squeeze money out of me from working on my car

[@aonoymousandy7467]

@Ken Call they prey on lack of mechanical knowledge in the general population, just the other day I was at a jeep and Chrysler stealership I the waiting room when I overheard the guy responsible for monitoring car work, that the lady's car had a bad battery, she said that it was brand new but thatif she buys theirs it will last 5 years, then a 15 minutes later he told another costumer that his battery was also bad, not surprisingly he also told me that my battery was bad and I needed a new one. I went home, tested my battery and knew that guy was such a crook for telling everyone that their battery was bad so that their dealership could charge them several hundred dollars each to swell their profits. if they need to lie to customers to get work and make money then they should at least do the logical transition to a different career

[@mandelaeffect3521]

Dude what you mean not original title?? No such thing as a repo title. I've been a dealer and I buy nothing but repos from loanmart,west lake, and credit acceptance and they are the original title signed and stamped by the bank along with it the repossession form that states when and where it was repoed, where it went after repo and signed and stamped again by the bank. I've gotten them like that from different states as well. Unless your talking about lien sale paperwork which is what tow companies have to get, which is legal paperwork to the vehicle for transfer of ownership

[@vivillager]

@@mandelaeffect3521, Depends on the state. In Texas, clean titles ( sometimes called clear titles ) are blue. You are right in which the original title goes with the car, the title will have the lien printed on it, and there will be a Repossession of Motor Vehicle Affidavit attached to it. But in Oklahoma, instead of getting a clear blue title, I was given a green title and at the top it said repossessed vehicle title.

[@mandelaeffect3521]

@@vivillager that's one state I've never bought a vehicle from, thanks for replying back I've learned something new about that state.

[@lostsoul3154]

Let the oil drain as long as possible, this is why those quick-change places are not good. They will put the plug back in before it drains enough. Time is $$$$$.

[@johnyoung468]

Patrick Joseph The last time i got the oil change at a quick change place they left a half quart of old in the pan. Put the plug in & put 5 quarts in. When i checked the oil it was half quart too full. Then they wanted $80. to change my power steering fluid. HUM - my car doesn't use power steering fluid, it is electronic steering. Last time i went to that dumpy place. lol Oh , if you have a car that uses p s fluid,get a turkey baster and take the old fluid out & put it in a container,then put your new power steering fluin in.Save about $70.00.

[@Edgarh71]

If it's a 3,2 litre Ford Ranger or Mazda BT 50, the oil must be refilled after no more than 10 minutes. Watch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJCYq5VvZp2oh5Y

[@cm1133]

I let the oil drain in my vehicles over night to let as much old oil drip out as possible.

[@mattdeslauriersnc]

Get a quick drain plug off amazon!!! Never need a 14/15mm again.. no more stripped plugs, no cross threading, no more dropping plugs into the pan and getting your hands covered. Got 1, waiting for next oil change to put it on. 25$ well worth it.

[@REVNUMANEWBERN]

The story about paying for a NO oil change is prevalent, in my home town years ago a gas station on the interstate was busted for such scams, I personally ALWAYS check my oil as soon as I get home IF I have someone else do it, I HAVE found 1/2 to a full quart low.

[@kkarllwt]

Some tips for changing your oil. '1' Find a bakery cooking sheet ( pan) to catch the drips. I've had one for 30 years. '2' Mark a line on the filter with a magic marker or grease pencil. Then tighten it 3/4 of a turn as suggested on the box. Use a wrench if necessary. '3' Find a 5 gallon metal oil can to collect the spent oil. Jugs and buckets will work, but a metal can will last your lifetime. Keep it off the concrete floor to prevent rust. '4' If you're not in a hurry, use your cordless drill to make a small hole in the oil filter to let it drain before removing it. Or get oil all over your hands. '5 ' Oil is oil. A little used oil on the new filter gasket won't hurt anything. From my 55 years of changing oil..'6' About every 6 months Menards will put a branded full syn. oil on sale for $ 3 after the rebate coupon. Plan ahead. "7' Oil can be almost free at garage and estate sales. Ask a garage sale going friend to buy for you. I bought 3 gallons of semi syn. last summer for $ 1 a gallon.'8' Use some yellow tape stuck onto the underside of the hood to record the oil change date , mileage, and type. Same for plug , filter, battery and other periodic maint.'FIN' I'm tired.

[@makeminefreedom]

A few years ago my wife and I purchased a vehicle from a local dealer. Because it was new we agreed to allow the dealer to change the oil. When the first oil change was due I requested synthetic oil and the dealer used Mobile 1. Mobile 1 was not my first choice but it was all that was available from the dealership. After a few more oil changes I requested the same synthetic oil change and when I pulled out of the dealership I noticed the oil change decal said Quaker State Synthetic blend. I then heard a radio commercial for the dealership which had said they had partnered with Quaker State and realized they would never use Mobile 1 again. After that I purchased a set of Rhino Ramps so I could raise my wife's car high enough so I could change the oil myself. I have to say I have been using AmsOil for the last 17 years in my 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD. I have over 150,000 miles and have no leaks or smoke out of my tailpipe also I only change the oil once a year. This is the longest lasting vehicle I have ever owned. Mobile 1 is a real synthetic but AmsOIl also includes esters which keeps the all the seals soft so they don't dry out crack and leak. This my experience no one has paid me to share this information with you.

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

Yes, a quality synthetic engine oil will protect well & greatly extend oil change intervals. However, the oil filter won't. In the best operating conditions...which very few engines ever experience...an engine oil filter should be changed EVERY 6,000 to 8,000 miles. Every 6,000 miles is more advisable. To exceed a 6,000 mile oil filter change is to be penny wise & pound foolish. Respectfully, Ben

[@psdaengr911]

Amsoil is a blender, not a refiner. I've never tried it, put off by "soil" in the name of an oil.

[@psdaengr911]

@@duygukayhanisaskank4915 Depend on your use and the rest of the car care. I did 10K changes with Mobil One for decades in my cars and had 100K engines with insignificant wear and metal loss (by lab test). But I was driving more than 15K/year, most at highway speed. Until recently the bodies wore out before the engines. Now the electronic crap does.

[@mariov7123]

Once I took my car to the dealership and they left my engine open by the time I got home it was mess in the engine compartment oil all over I went back and all they did was wipe it off a little bit. Since then I don’t let nobody touch my car

[@SinwinX]

I recently started changing my oil too as well as doing a coolant flush today. I recommend buying those 5-quart jugs at walmart over the individual one quart ones because it's cheaper that way and look out for rebates from the companies. Pennzoil and mobil 1 do rebates throughout the year. Also, oil filter is probably more important than the oil you use since the oil will most likely outlast your filter. Most importantly, DON'T use jack stands from harbor freights. You don't want your jack stands to fail on you since it'll be life threatening if they do. Put some extra cash into tools that regards safety like the jack stands with pin/bar from prolift or torin. Other tools especially hand tools from harbor freights are great.

[@psdaengr911]

Paint and decals don't make jack stands stronger. Except for the batches that were recalled HFs jack stands are no worse than all the other made in the same factories and sold by all the other retailers.

[@thurm101]

I never thought about using 2 jack stands. That’s a good idea. I think I will do that from now on. It’s like a safety safety measure. Thanks

[@yruhatin100]

2nd jack stands are not necessary since he didn't remove the wheels.

[@psdaengr911]

@@yruhatin100 Depends on static ground clearance and where you are when the vehicle suddenly dropped. If ground clearance was 7 inches, your chest and head were 6 inches and the car fell, the front coil springs and tires would let that car drop lower than 6 inches before it rebounded. You might get the air knocked out of you, or get some broken ribs, or a concussion, or break a wrist or arm, or be killed as you neck snapped. . That's assuming your arms weren't raised when it happened. When most jack stands are made in a few Chinese factories, it's not smart to risk your health or life to argue with the laws of physics or take shortcuts. A floor jack should rated at at least 60% of the total weight of the vehicle. Jack stands are rated as a pair and should exceed the vehicle weight by 50%- but most owners don't know that. Jack up the front of the car and support it on both sides with one std rated at half the gross weight of the vehicle. stand. Leaving the jack in place give 3 point support which is more stable.

[@shimes424]

Tip #1: remove the old o-ring from the filter housing before installing the new o-ring Happened to my mom, she brought it to the dealer for oil change, parents went on a road trip couple days later, and would've been stranded had I not seen the oil in their driveway and called them. They had no oil on the dipstick, but still had pressure luckily. Got a good rust protection all underneath!

[@psdaengr911]

You meant "install new filter".

[@ddoperations2768]

I Worked at dealership for years as a master technician. Dealerships suck balls. Always remember that. It’s not very hard to do a better job than a stealership on an oil change

[@Davido50]

Toyota dealers suck ballz

[@AzadJhaj24]

@@Davido50 that's just an opinion.

[@johnbeer5242]

Wasp Pride my dog also worked at a dealership 😄😄😄

[@SAPG82965]

Yeah d so called stealership or highway robbery

[@deysanimations1949]

@@Davido50 Toyota dealers are the worst..they tight my 2016 rav4 filter so bad . that when I decided to do my oil change with a symtetic oil . I could not twist that filter I have to reaply apply a force to twist it and finally did it but it came out broken , I have to buy another one they are all plastic and I pay 62 dollars , since then I change my oil easy I apply enough force for the leaking that's all..and I am able now to do my oil change..ashame on Toyota deales .

[@helmnobu]

One thing you should do, especially if you didn’t pre-fill the oil filter, is that you should also let the engine crank and cycle the oil through before you call it done. When the dipstick was up to the full mark, I started the engine and the oil light stayed illuminated. Immediately, I shut off the engine and found that the once full dipstick was now showing nothing. So I added more oil to the full mark and that fixed the issue. No more oil light, no more lifter noise. Of course, check the dipstick again just in case, and add more oil if necessary.

[@1RoadGarage]

Thanks for that. Yes always recheck levels after running. But, remember that you'll need the engine off for at least 15-30mins to measure correctly at the stick. Also, to be completely sure of the amount of oil you initially put in check with your owner's manual that way you won't put in too little or too much.

[@philipboitak9218]

Never ever crank engine over to try & prime it,, bad idea,, the only way to prime engine would be to turn oil pump manually 👿👿👿👿 & I don’t think your going to do that,, 👿👿👿👿

[@zenlPrec]

after starting the vehicle make sure you check the oil level again because the filter was not filled up!!!

[@ANDthe3]

If you have your owners manual, it tells you how much oil to add when you're also changing your filter. I guess the OEMs assume no one fills up their filter.

[@x-man5056]

@@ANDthe3 The amount of oil you drained out can very. Never just dump in the last qt., save about the last half qt, check oil level and add only what is needed. It's the only way to make sure you don't over fill. It matters.

[@AlatarBlaze]

Ive worked on cars my whole life and letting it set before an oil change will let any setiment in the oil collect at the bottom of the oil pan and when u drain it it doesn't get it all...ive noticed doing the oil change right after parking it does a better job yeah the oil is hot but its not going to leave red marks or blisters

[@FrankGutowski-ls8jt]

Buy several filters. Remove gaskets. Place gaskets in a baggie with silicone tire shine. When it’s time for the next change, replace gasket and fill filter as much as possible with fresh oil. Hand tighten. Next time the filter will unscrew easily by hand. Silicone fluid will have saturated, slightly swelled, and lubed the gasket. Never another stuck filter.

[@blainemcdonald6972]

Frank Gutowski great advice

[@VincentVader]

Way to show nubies how to round off their drain plug bolt. Only a bubba uses an adjustable wrench. You should only use a properly sized wrench or socket & ratchet unless an adjustable wrench is all you have in an emergency situation. It's best to have warm oil not scalding hot that can burn you. Warm oil drains easier and more thoroughly. I learned this when I was a kid changing the oil in my dad's 1980 Toyota Corolla that he put 500K miles on.

[@jacksmith3189]

Vincent Vader I use a 15 mm sockets for my vehicles

[@Marco-fi6gv]

True on all ur points

[@obelixpfeifenreiniger2863]

only a keyboard warrior would tell other people about how to handle their drain bolt. are you serious?

[@johneldridge4229]

Oh shut the fuck up you pathetic piece of shit!!!

[@Marco-fi6gv]

@@obelixpfeifenreiniger2863 he's right though, especially since it's videos meant for people who have never done it before. I have never used on adjustable wrench or heard of anyone using an adjustable wrench to loosen or tighten their oil drain plug. That's what they make socket sets for. Not a very bright idea and it's good that somebody bring that up

[@universewonders1]

Its real nice of engineers to put the oil filter above the u joints to keep them nicely oiled every oil change

[@Roberto-gp3yx]

I have a 2015 Chevy Malibu w/220k & a 2011 Chevy Impala w/75k and I have saved hundreds of dollars doing the oil change myself. The last time the impala went to the dealership my father took the car in and they had him wait for 3 hrs! The dealership manager gave him a free oil change but we never went back to claim it. The people that worked on the car wrenched the bolt and filter so tight it took for ever to get them loose. Both cars run great and no mechanical issues bc I do the maintenance myself now. Great videos 1Road!

[@2LateIWon]

I did a video on this. I think the only thing extra I do and I've always done is while the oil is draining and just before I put the plug back in. I pour about a 1/4 quart of fresh oil in. This helps flush out anything in the pan and makes me feel better lol. And it's important to have the oil warm not boiling hot for your safety but not cold either. Warm oil is less viscous which flows easier and faster. Great video. I also do the magnets now too

[@patandbrandi]

Ya I do that to it's just a bit of extra oil but its probably getting the dirtiest oil left out.

[@zeke112964]

You need to start your engine and let the oil circulate before checking it because your filter was dry and some can hold a quart or more of oil.....So check your oil after running the engine first.

[@philllsxga.7737]

Good video! I've been changing my oil for many many years. I always let it drain for at least an hour while I check the underneath of my vehicle.. I always pre fill no magnet no additives no problems...

[@cup_and_cone]

God bless GM...every oil change automatically lubricates the front drive shaft u-joint.

[@robertbrooks5485]

Hahaha!!!

[@Davido50]

Love GM . just ordered a '19 Camaro LS1

[@darcychu9652]

How nice! Good till the last drop!

[@fromstarlighttosunrise128]

Javier Hernandez if it’s not leaking, it’s probably empty

[@fromstarlighttosunrise128]

Javier Hernandez a GM that doesn’t burn or leak? nah i’ve never seen it

[@AWIERD1]

Forgot to wipe exposed area before installing oil filter and follow up with degreaser around oil filter and drain nut to make checking for leaks a cinch.

[@Dumbass_mechanic]

1. Warm up the engine, the hotter the better because the more contaminants become suspended in the oil. 2. Drain the oil into a suitable container. Don't drop the plug into the bucket, and catch the plug and not the oil. 3. Spin the filter off 4. Lightly oil the seal on the new filter LIGHTLY. 5. Install the new filter tightening only enough to compress the seal. 6. Check the gasket and threads on the drain plug and replace if necessary then screw the drain plug in and tighten enough to compress the gasket. 7. Pour in new oil. 8. Start engine and allow to run until oil pressure builds up, no longer than 30 seconds, then pull the dipstick and check the level, top off as needed. .... not that difficult. Make sure you're using the proper weight of oil for the engine, and if you choose a synthetic oil then you should also choose an oil filter designed for the extended use of the oil, I have seen oil filter elements come apart and destroy engines because they were used far too long. Don't go expensive on the oil and then cheap out on the filter. Also don't use an orange fram filter.

[@JrSpitty]

I always say fram filters are fine. Most OEM filters are made by fram. I just wouldn't use them for extended oil change intervals. TBH I am not a fan of anything past 5k miles. Oil gets dirty like your point #1 and filters are a cheap maintenance item. Oil can get acidic and pit the metal, it can shear under high stress and lose all of its viscosity under high engine load, you will have trace wear metals running around in that oil with carbon from blowby... The list is endless... Yes synthetic oil provides better protection so you can get more life out of it, but imagine how many more miles you would get out of that same engine if you did the same oil changes with that better protection. Oil manufacturers only tout the longer oil change intervals because their oil provides superior lubrication properties, which is a relative term when comparing wear with lubricity testing. The truth of the matter is you shouldn't do extended oil change intervals unless you have an economical plan to balance out the wear of a car vs the money spent. Fleets do this...

[@chevyboss97]

I usually poke a hole in the oil filter before removing it to drain it out instead of letting all that oil run through all the other parts. as soon as it's done put the screw driver back in the filter and turn the filter to remove it. easy peasy

[@wydopnthrtl]

I appreciate your efforts in putting these vids out. In the case of an oil change I saw three improvements to consider. 1. Always run the engine to put a little heat into the oil. This does two things. Makes the oil flow easier (helps in colder temps) and secondly it makes sure all the bearing surfaces are freshly primed so that first few seconds of start where there is no oil.. they don't wear excessively. 2. You should *ALWAYS* put oil in the filter. If your filter will spill during install.. only put enough to get the pleats wet. There is no law that says one has to completely fill the filter ;-) This reduces prime time and helps the bearings to live longer. 3. Spilling oil all over the thing below is not good. Prevents rust sure, but it'll sling everywhere and also drip on the pavement. Consider a plastic sheet to form a shield w/directing channel. Costco is cheap on M1. But WM is cheaper than they (has been for yrs) Type of wrench on the drain plug... if its not over tightened to begin with.. adjustable is perfectly fine. (some comment below) Inspect the seal / o-ring on the plug. If needs to be fresh & pliable. This is an excellent time to take a few minutes and look for other problems. Gasket leaks, water pump leaks, broken clips, broken rubber seals on joints, ect...

[@hjer731]

Don't pre-fill filters, boss. Virgin oil is not 100% pure.

[@wydopnthrtl]

@@hjer731 So... letting bearings starve for 3-5 seconds is better than not?

[@psdaengr911]

@@hjer731 "Virgin oil" is what's pumped from the ground, not what's sold. Every oil refinery in the world filters their oil better than any diary filters its milk.

[@psdaengr911]

How soft and pliable does the aluminum seal on a Honda or Toyota drain plug need to be?

[@wydopnthrtl]

@@psdaengr911 A new metal seal (washer) has a designed in amount of crush. It conforms to irregular surfaces AND it gives the bolt torque retention. Where-as a OEM live GM has the torque retention between the bolt (plug) and the pan. And the rubber seal simply gets trapped in a groove. It's just two different methods of achieving the same thing. (I prefer a reusable O-Ring instead of a throw away metal one)

[@ianwilds3139]

I don't put the drain plug back in until after I remove the filter. Doing it this way does not completely drain all of the spent oil. Hopefully you have learned this by now.

[@dang6832]

Always start your car and after a minute or two shut it off then recheck the level. Most important on vertical filters. Can be 0.5-1qt short after filling the filter.

[@shaneanderson1036]

plus always always remove you PCV valve each service and clean it properly . it’s a vital part of removing pressure and fumes from your engine case

[@crazymexican2184]

Jimmy while you were under the hood you should've added some brake fluid , your master cylinder looks a bit low there bud and also top off any other fluids if needed ( antifreeze , power steering , transmission, washer fluid ) also inspect air filter too Other than that great job on the video man !

[@psdaengr911]

Maybe also check the brake pads for wear, and inspected the valve clearance? WTFDYW? None of that is part of changing the oil.

[@Goldarr1900]

“ How to change your oil better than a dealership ” of course, change it yourself or take it to a trusted friend. If you take it to those super lube places, you don’t know what kind of oil they are adding. They bring a big house down to your car engine and fill it up with “ OIL” the big question is what kind of oil or filter are they using?Could be a cheap version as long as it has detergents in there and the cheapest oil filter like STP “original” .STP does sell good filters like the “extended” and “maximum”. I take my car to a buddy of mine who makes a living out of patching tires and changing oil. You have to bring the oil and filter to him. He does it right in front of your face.

[@TheShadow941]

Hey here's a suggestion use a gallon baggie on your oil filter once its loosened put the baggie over it up to the engine and once unscrewed all the oil falls in the baggie and then u seal it and throw the oil filter and oil all in the baggie there will be a lil oil spilled but 95% is contained its really a much better way ! If you have a horizontal oil filter use the same method but use a big rubber band on the bottom when you unscrew with the baggie over the whole thing! Hope this helps!

[@cmdr_stretchedguy]

Amazon Basics full synthetic (API certified) oil 5 qt for $18 or 6 qt for $22. Same as any other name brand oil since oil is made by only a few companies, and then the brands add their own detergents or additives.

[@mikebraz25]

You can add new oil to the oil filter as well. Maybe not filling it completely but won't be dry when started.

[@orlandomedina3429]

Great video Man. Safety explanation was perfect. Don’t know why you got thumbs down. Video was great for beginners

[@johnveroutsos]

I love both trucks in this video... they appear to be in fantastic condition! Thanks for the video - I usually do my own oil changes for the same reasons you mention here.

[@datsuntoyy]

as others have said, it is better to change the oil warm. Maybe not full heat but definately not cold. Had it been warm, it would have drained in about 2 minutes, not 20.

[@ussling]

The way to prefill a horizontally-mounted filter is to fill it about halfway with oil. Tighten the drain plug to specified torque, install new filter, lower the car to the ground, then fill with oil. Take off oily gloves before trying to hand tighten the new oil filter. Start car and let run for a few minutes. Look under the car for leaks. Turn off car, check the oil level on the dipstick, then get everything cleaned up. Wait until after dark then pour the old oil in the neighbor's back yard and bask in the money saved and a job well done.

[@_AlexB_]

HAHAHA 👍👍👍

[@POOKIE5592]

Actually, you should change oil hot. You'll remove more of the contaminants while they're suspended in the oil.

[@FrankGutowski-ls8jt]

DAVID ASSIMIL8 I let mine drain over night. Arrive. Slip pan underneath and remove the plug. Don’t need to raise the car.

[@va3vad]

Your oil filter is empty when you checking the oil level in your video. Start your car first to pump oil in the filter . You'll see the oil level is going to be low.

[@MartinFuentes126]

Been doing my oil changes myself for almost 3 years since I've had my truck but man I'm just glad u were paying attention to the video monitor and not on ur phone

[@silvergrandam2002]

I worked at a dealer getting paid 8 bucks an hour and the oil change was always fully done right and when it asked for mobile 1 I put it in from the oil drum from mobile 1. It is however cheaper to do it yourself.

[@tjlee9901]

mobil 1

[@psdaengr911]

Pennzoil Platinum an d Quaker Synthetic are good alternative. Doesnl' make much difference if you change at least at the car makers recommended intervals, not the oil makers. "Up to" means just that - a maximum life not a guaranteed one.

[@onunez5655]

Jimmy i have seen a few of your videos man. I can tell you that you know about cars the same thing i know about space travel.

[@johanh2319]

Great Jax this made me giggle. Hopefully I understood it right 😂

[@ApartmentKing66]

You should see his differential fluid-changing video if you haven't already. That thing's a travesty practically from start to finish. The first thing he did that I found objectionable was after he took the cover off, he took a putty knife to the mating surface of the cover to scrape off the gasket. Then a razor blade to get what the putty knife didn't. THEN sandpaper! Putting metal to metal like that can gouge the surface and open you up to leaking. And as if all that weren't enough, he then sprayed brake cleaner INTO the differential to wash out the old fluid. Doing that will put brake cleaner residue in your differential fluid, thinning and diluting it. There's a reason he has that disclaimer at the beginning of each video. I wouldn't let this guy within 10 feet of my differential.

[@johnhini7177]

a strong magnet outside a iron steel metal sumb may be a good idea..the magnet inside the sump plub will be good to see how yr motor oil is doing..u can also use aa rod mangnant to test out the oil..aluminium rods full of magnets were used in old german aircoolled disels..on front end loaders..

I let my oil drain to a slow drip then I put plug back waited another hour opened drain and another 4 oz of old oil drained. I suggest let it drain for more than an hour. Go have something to eat, come back in an hour.

[@wambsganz8]

I do prefill the oil filter, but only enough for the filter media to absorb some oil. My filter is on the side of the engine.

[@mcplutt]

Use the correct drain plug tool, and check the oil lever after running engine for a few minutes and let it sit.

[@DanielGarcia-zz9eg]

I never let a dealer change my oil. I like the feeling that it has fresh oil. For real, what really happens behide doors while you sitting in the waiting room or if you just drop it off for the day

[@claybird8184]

I only forgot to check and see if the gasket came off with the old oil filter once, I started it up and there was no doubt, because oil went EVERYWHERE!!! Lol!!!

[@zeke112964]

Using the correct wrench or socket also help to keep from rounding off the drain plug

[@jamessebastian9822]

Before I change my oil I make it one quart low on oil. Run it till it's up to operating temp. Turn it off and add one quart of kerosine to the crankcase and let it idle for 15 minutes then turn it off. Remove filter and let it drain for a while then replace with a wix filter. Then drain the oil and let drain for a while then refill. Cleans out the varnishes, valve stems, oil passages.

[@iamaaron____]

Yo use aluminum foil over your driveshaft and Direct it towards the pan makes it allot easier to clean the mess afterwards

[@thirdenvoqation7735]

Depending on age and type of engine you may also want to do an oil flush to clear it out, that way it can clear out any contaminants that may still be in the block. I tend to do these every second change on a diesel. You can use whatever product you believe in to do this, but it does help the engine in the long term if you intend keeping it. I also combine this with a fuel cleaner to help the injectors but that's done more frequently (depending on fuel used).

[@thirdenvoqation7735]

@35dane I use the BG products, they work with conjunction as part of a whole package. I've got a relatively old diesel engine (about 120k on it) and I use the cleaners to help timing and emissions. so I use their BG 244, BG DOC etc.

[@chinpingshoon]

should change the oil filter before putting back the drain plug, residue oil remains in the engine with oil filter still intact.

[@mustafamuhammed4788]

First of all Wouldn't be better to do the job while your car is on a level ground, this is what most owner manuals refer to??. Second of all, i thought it was better to drain your oil while the oil is still hot, that makes sure that will drain all sludges.

[@dopiaza2006]

If you do this on a VW TDI (and possibly a whole load of other engines these days that have a paper filter insert), you need to remove the filter right at the start as this lets the oil in the filter housing drain into the sump before it is drained. I have found I can get more oil out by using a suction pump through the dipstick hole than by pulling the sump plug. This is partly due to being able to suck the oil out of the oil cooler which doesn't happen on an old school drain and refill.

[@Satstalker]

You lost me at adjustable wrench!

[@simonpickering3609]

i was wondering what size it was ...very sloppy ...

[@x-man5056]

Don't use them on vehicles at all if you can avoid it.

[@UglyMaleee]

@@x-man5056 why not?

[@x-man5056]

@@UglyMaleee Notorious for rounding off heads of bolts/nuts. Busting knuckles in the process. Fine for 3/4" or larger but never on an engine. Only use them as last resort.

[@davedavis775]

I recommend you use a 6 sided wrench or socket. A twelve point wrench or socket is made for tight spaces after the initial torque needed to loosen the nut or bolt.

[@psdaengr911]

A nut in that tight is already cross-threaded .

[@jackiejones2107]

It recommended that you start the engine after filling with oil(30 sec to a minute. This ensures that the oil filter is full and other components. Let it sit for about three minutes then read your dipstick. Add more oil if necessary

[@darcychu9652]

A pet diaper mat can be used as floor cover for dripping oil while a 2-liter Pepsi Cola bottle with bottom cut-off can be used as a funnel for swift oil refill.

[@geoffjefferson5571]

If you are paying to have a service done on your car, try to scratch a small mark on your oil filter, air filter etc and check them after. I caught out a mechanic who charged me for an air filter but didn't change it lol. Free wheel alignment (while I watched), never went back there and spread the word.

[@meticulouselectronics]

I had a filter that I could fill before installing. Except I spun the filter the same speed I would with an empty filter. Most of the oil flew out of the filter. Picture an oil vortex. Spin slowly when doing this haha.

[@blainemcdonald6972]

korutube you put to much oil in your filter,

[@ApartmentKing66]

@@blainemcdonald6972 No, he just spun it too fast.

[@tysoncurrie7745]

I think it is awesome that you own two different years of suburbans. I thought I was the only crazy one who owns two suburbans my first one is a 1996 black GMC 2500 4x4 suburban with a 7.4L 454 in it and my second is a 2004 white Chevy 1500 4x4 suburban with a 5.3L. So I have a lot in common with the years of your same suburbans and love watching your videos 👍

[@jcs6206]

Good video - glad I found your channel. 4 quick tips that I wish I knew decades ago: 1) non-slip shelf liner / toolbox liner works well for grabbing oil filters that are slippery 2) it takes only 5 more minutes and about $20 to drain and refill your tranny fluid (depending on your model of course) 3) dumping an extra quart of oil through the engine (after the old oil is all drained out) helps clean it for just a few $$ more 4) oil that lands on cardboard soaks thru quicker than one might expect it to, but it won't go thru a layer of plastic (I use a garbage bag under the cardboard just in case)

[@johnwalters7415]

I had four free service oil change and tire rotation. I marker the tires and oil filter and sent the wife to have work done. they signed off for changing oil and rotation that they never touched.

[@MulloyDIY]

I started doing my own oil changes and tire rotations after the dealer didn’t tighten the wheels on my car and my parent’s mechanic accidentally overfilled the oil on their car, causing damage to the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. I just don’t trust anyone to do it right. Like you said, if you take it somewhere else, you don’t know what is (or isn’t being done). I always to use a torque wrench for the oil filter canister, drain bolt, and lug nuts. I think most professionals don’t which is a shame.

[@valentiner61]

Appreciate the sand paper trick especially, thanks.

[@latrogeniwile58]

Nice vid. That's almost exactly what I do. Two side comments: 1.) The fill level can be higher than the hash mark if you've overfilled. OK up to mybe 3/4Q. 2.) Mobil 1 high mileage will have extra ZDDP for the flat tappet cam. It comes in 10W-30, and is what I use.

[@psdaengr911]

Oil level should always be checked with the car level and settled, and engine at operating temperature because it expands. Fill it to full when cold and you overfill. Fill it when the suspension hasn't had a chance to settle and you overfill.

[@exploringgodscountry]

I have grown to like the K&N filters because they are bigger so you can fit a bit more oil. That is the case at least on the LS gen 3 small block. I also use ramps if anything instead of jack and jackstands... typically I don't need anything on my truck.

[@shaneanderson1036]

last time we used a service centre was on our brand new car . iv always arrived our cars all my life . this time i don’t know why i took it in . big mistake . oil filter wasn’t tightened on and it spewed oil out all the way home . thankgod it didn’t lose all the oil . plus they left a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension under the hood on top the engine . that was the first and last time i ever used a service for an oil change ! still got the ratchet

[@CombatDoc54]

If you switch to synthetic, get a Fumoto drain plug so you can get a sample to send to an analyst. I used Shell. I think it is 11 bucks for a basic and 15 for a full which breaks it down to the specifics of the contaminants in the oil. They send you free of charge a sample bottle and a pre-paid small box to send it back to them then once they receive it, it will take about 3 to 4 days to send you an email showing all of the specific contaminants and whether you need to change your oil or not. I would send them a sample every 5K miles and when I would get a sample, I would go ahead and at least change the oil filter. I put over 900K miles on my truck and changed the oil less than half as much as someone using conventional oil. Yes, some may think it may be a pain in the ass to get a sample every 5K miles. But let me say this. My truck took almost 16 quarts. 16 quarts times however much it was per quart was well worth time spent in my shop away from my wife drinking beer during this highly precise surgery. Now just because I used Shell for the analysis, doesn't mean I used Shell oil. One thing you DO NOT want to do is switch to a synthetic on an older vehicle. Synthetic oils have a higher volume of detergents and can actually cause leaks in gaskets that one never had before.

[@csinalabama73]

my dealership horror story is that they changed the filter and put in the fresh oil, forgetting to drain the old oil. It was in an LS3 and I was shocked the only thing it did was cause some smoke after a bump. I have learned to check before I leave the dealer.

[@Eagleoneradiogod]

Moble one is group 3 mineral/perteolium based oil with adtitive that replicate or meet synthetic group 4 standards but do not surpass. Cause of the class action lawsuit between castrol and moble one in 1999. Royalpurple and amzoil are group 4. And if I where you look into a fumoto quick oil drain valve those are oil pan thread savers. I always put a rubber cap on the end incase the valve gets broke open. But in 4 years of running quick oil drain valves that has not happend to me yet. Also the ac delco oil filters have paper end caps inside. I really like the napa platinum oil filters.

[@williamabaker12]

Several things: DO NOT use an adjustable wrench to remove or replace the oil plug. You're begging to round it off. Use the correct size wrench or socket and ratchet. Second, even if your oil filter goes on sideways, always put enough oil in it to soak into the filter before installation. You don't want that dry running time while the pump attempts to fill the oil filter. Thirdly, always start the motor and let it run for 10 or 15 seconds after you're done filling. Let it sit for a minute or two and double check oil level. PS: If you can manage changing the oil while hot, you'll get more of the grime out of the old oil, as it will be suspended in the running oil.

[@ffx95]

If you want to charge your oil lines up before fully starting the engine. You can either remove the spark plug wires or remove fuel pump relay and crank the engine for a good 10 seconds with 10 second break between cranks do that 3 times then either put the spark wires or relay back on you’ll find the oil pressure level rises much faster than if you didn’t. Pistons running at starter speed is much less wear while it’s dry than cranking the engine and having the pistons run on idle rpms dry waiting for the oil lines to charge. You’re trading the some extra piston wear for starter wear but starter is much cheaper than an engine job.

[@ApartmentKing66]

Theoretically, maybe so, but in over 30 years of changing my own oil, I've never run across an engine that's that unforgiving.

[@chinosalv]

Why use an adjustable wrench , when you can go to HARBOR FREIGHT and buy a nice wrench set,..and why not.. also get safety googles, more disposable gloves and more magnets for your oil filter. Remember kids Harbor freight is the best tool store of the planet.

[@moabfool]

You missed a step. Oil filters should be turned 3/4 to 1 full turn after the seal makes first contact with its mating surface.

[@pfoxhound]

Make sure that your oil is hot to Max, if you want to replace maximum of the oil in engine. If you don't know what you are doing than go with cold engine.

[@sy7zx]

Great video, I just want to say 2 things, if you change your engine oil yourself be aware 'cause you won't have the stamp service so you devalue your car price quickly, second thing is, if you have a car warranty which they cover parts in your car, at first claim they will ask for proof if your car has been maintained by the manufacturer manual of your car, so basically they will ask to see your service book with legit stamps.

[@psdaengr911]

B.S. What;s in the owners manuals is recommended service, not mandated service. Few dealers and fewer oil change shops stamp anything. Keep a log of all the service done on your vehicle including any DIY, and save the receipts for materials you purchase with the logbook. Some automakers like Honda have owner websites where you can maintain the service record.

[@glennschunemann4800]

If you use synthetic oil should consider using a filter that is designed for synthetic oil filtration. :D

[@POOKIE5592]

Superman Yeah, Mobil 1 isn't synthetic. I guess that's why the bottle says "Advanced Full Synthetic".

[@dontderockmeriz4546]

I agree that group III base stock synthetic oils are not fully synthetic however some of the Mobil 1 varieties are group IV. But def use a better filter, AC Delco are decent but you can get a Bosch, k&n or Wix xp cheap on amazon.

[@1RoadGarage]

I change my oil every 3-5k miles. Don't need a better filter.

[@dontderockmeriz4546]

I hear you however I refuse to use filters that have a rubber anti drain valve. Silicone ones handle the heat much better no matter how often you change the oil.

[@dontderockmeriz4546]

Timothy Bingham even the cheap orange Fram uses silicone nowadays.

[@WPGinterceptor460Interceptor]

5:48 NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER USE A CRESCENT WRENCH on a drain plug.. USE CORRECT SIZE WRENCH!!!

[@negrumarius]

Why? I need to know. Thanks

[@OGbqze]

@@negrumarius Because you don't have to, that's why. Just do whatever you want. Don't listen to anyone in these comments, even this comment. Just ignore them all and go learn for yourself... That's the best and only way. Good luck.

[@sodakproud]

@@negrumarius You'll have a higher chance of damaging the bolt and rounding corners. The correct tool is a properly sized socket or wrench.

[@roberttroxell4006]

I agree that the correct size wrench or socket is best, but if the drain bolt is large and you don’t have the correct size wrench/socket, you can CAREFULLY adjust an adjustable wrench and not round off the drain bolt head. I’ve done that many times with no problem.

[@chrislotzkat1066]

First Point: An adjustable wrench isnt a tool to use on a Car. You can turn in a screw at your fence with it but thats it. Second: Warm oil is better to drain because it flow out more complete. Third: Everytime use a new gasket. Especially that Nylon gaskets harden out due to oil and heat and may crack at next use. Fourth: Loose the Oil filter before screwing back in the drain bolt because some of the oil trapped in the filter flow back to the oil pan.

[@maxscott3349]

I've never used a jack. I think I have 9.5 inches of clearance on my truck, so I just slide under. I think it's better to have it level anyway. And you're right that hot oil can burn you but it does flow a lot better. And for the record, crescent wrenches don't round over bolt heads, people who don't know how to use a crescent wrench do. It's not that hard to get them tight.

[@shefkipajaziti1181]

You are so right! Great review

[@erm4559]

Whent to Walmart for and oil change I did Mark the old oil filter and when they finish I checked the filter and it was the same old marked filter they didn't change it.t THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH ALL OF US.

[@BoerniLE]

garages do good oil changes if you watch the process. idk about america, but in germany you can even bring your favourite oil to the workshop. this even saves some bucks (VW Longlife premium Oil 5w-30 bought in the internet for 5€/L instead of 20€/L in the workshop) and you dont need to make your hands dirty.

[@kurtsimmons1587]

Here’s one you need to include is to remove the fuel pump fuse.Then try starting it a few cranks to build up the oil pressure and it will fill the oil filter. Then check your oil and it will give you the correct level! If so top off and replace the fuse!

[@blainemcdonald6972]

Kurt Simmons partially fill your oil filter prior to reinstalling

[@kurtsimmons1587]

That is for filters that you can’t add oil to. I do fill mine because it goes on from the bottom!

[@jamesm568]

I use Walmart Super Tech synthetic with the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter. I only change my oil once a year. I used to be an idiot and purchase that expensive Amsoil oil and Mobil 1 synthetic. I pull a boat every now and then but that doesn't qualify to buy expensive synthetic oil.

[@bassheadlife492]

What you said was stupid because amsoil is good for 25-50k miles and cheap oil is inferior in everyway

[@jamesm568]

@@bassheadlife492And how is Walmart's Super Tech Synthetic oil inferior to use for everyday use? This I got to hear because all synthetic oils have to meet government standards.

[@bassheadlife492]

The walmart oil is not synthetic even though they say it is, look up the different oil classes and spend some time on the bob the oil guy forums. Walmart oil is fine just change it at the recommended intervals.

[@jamesm568]

@@bassheadlife492 But yet all oils are interchangeable so long as they meet the oil weight and certifications for your vehicle. Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, even the discounted brands such as Walmart's Supertech and Peak will not wear your engine out any quicker than any other brand that meets the basic standards for your vehicle.

[@anthonymacneil2279]

I use Amsoil SS since years and trust there products so much that I changed everything trans, diffs and transfer case on my 17 Silverado High Country 6.2L when it was drove off the lot and to boot the dealership picked up the tab $680. Changing the engine oil once a year for $90 is good in my books with the best in my opinion.

[@brandonevans4142]

Never go to a stealership...overpriced parts & labor

[@blainemcdonald6972]

Brandon Evans Labor rates in Alberta, Canada are around $175 per hour.

[@roberttroxell4006]

It depends upon the work being done. The cheapest price for synthetic oil change on my Honda was at the dealership, so I go there. If they try to sell me on anything else, I can say no.

[@uphill248]

Maybe I missed it... but after adding the oil. Lower the car and start the engine up? Then Shut off the engine and recheck the dipstick.

[@heyttsguy]

You'd be surprised how much more used oil comes out if you let it drain overnight. 20 minutes isn't enough.

[@jimparker7778]

A good technician will perform a series of checks on the other fluids, the appearance of belts/hoses and tire pressure. Window cleaner and replace wipers are some other inexpensive activities to consider while the pan drains. Cannot dig the AC filters anymore. Used them for years but no more. Wix, Purolator, and K&N pro series are all better options at a reasonable price. Even the Carquest store brand filters are good--and the NAPA filters are an excellent option priced very well during promotions.

[@flightofthebirds]

It’s called priming your filter. You don’t fill it entirely when you have a horizontal filter fitting. You fill the filter half way and then roll it at a 45 degree angle coating the filter material allowing for faster flow when your oil pump starts working. The consequence isn’t the worst but essentially what your doing is letting your crank case run low for a bit until you add that extra half-3/4 quart that the oil filter accounts for.

[@psdaengr911]

You could do an extended crank by unplugging the cam position sensor (no spark).