How to: Chippy Paint Technique

Taking a cheap, ugly, green floor model door I purchased and creating an adding coat after coat of chippy paint to make it look like a super old door that had been painted over and over again over years of use. Blog post: bit.ly/1O78pIN
See more Studio project videos: bit.ly/1QKmSdv
~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Check out: "Jack and Jill Bathroom Remodel (part 5)"
• Jack and Jill Bathroom...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~

[@jacobhoffman8610]

thats funny, i get paid to make shit that looks like this look like it did before you started lol

[@Caroline-ik7nf]

I used this video as my inspiration for these! Thank you!!! They just sold for $175 each!

[@jesusarroyo8993]

It’s so beautiful thank you for the demonstration I noticed, though the metal aluminum bars stand out you can possibly texture them like old iron look , just a suggestion I am an artist myself not at your level, but I do have ideas thank you

[@lass-inangeles7564]

Nice finish, good job! I would put a coating of diluted oil based polyurethane on it. Dilute 50% paint thinner (or mineral spirits) with 50% PolyU. There are water based versions too, but I've never used them. Once dry, PolyU does not have any smell. This will seal in your paint, and make it water resistant. Wax will not do much at all and will wear off with time. I'm not sure why you would want to use milk paint. An oil enamel would have done the same, with a more durable finish. All these 'crafty' paints like chalk paint (latex + plaster), and milk paint, etc are not durable finishes for furniture esp functional doors. Use Oil enamels, and you can control it the same way. Dries to a nice sheen and silky touch as well.

[@tatianachristou9944]

I have a nightstand in bare wood i want to paint like this. Do I need to seal it before staining and applying layers of color...? Thankd

[@lass-inangeles7564]

​@@tatianachristou9944 No need to seal wood before starting. Here is my suggestion. 1. Dilute your oil based stain with mineral spirits or paint thinner in a separate glass jar with lid. Test out. Should be still pretty dark. Stain wood using paintbrush (cheapo one). Let sit a few minutes, then wipe off excess with paper towels. If too light, restain and rewipe. End grain stains instantly, so use diluted stain for end grain to control color better. Staining is the hardest thing to do right on any project. 2. Let dry overnight on warm days. On cold days, let dry in sun for 2 days. 3. Using latex or acrylic paint, and cheap paint brush or small roller brush, paint up the project. Scrape a bit off here and there with a narrow scraper. Make sure the edges don't gouge the wood. I like to round off the sharp edges of metal scraper by filing it on rough concrete pavement or using a metal file, or an angle grinder. Just a tad rounded, but not completely. 4. Paint a second color of latex or acrylic on your project using a dryish brush to get a feathered look. Apply enough thick paint with a dryish brush, not wet and runny. Now you have two colors. Scrape off some here and there. Your second color should not cover the whole piece like the first color, just be brushed here and there. 5. You can try light sanding by hand to 'age' the paint at corners, over raised areas to expose 1st color below or the dark stain below. Now you have 3 colors showing through: dark stain, 1st color, 2nd color. 6. Whatever you do with latex, you can do with oil enamel colors too. Do not use spray cans, only small jars with paint brush. With oil enamels, you cannot scrape off to show the stained areas, it does not come off easily but you can try it. 7. Let the paint on project dry overnight or 2 days depending on weather. On hot sunny dry days it can be ready in 2 hrs. 8. Finish coat with Oil Based Clear Interior Satin Polyurethane by Varathane or Epifanes or any other brand. Make sure this is OIL BASED not WATER BASED. I don't like water based finish, not as durable. Oil based seals like a tank, you have no further issues ever. Dilute your PolyU 40: 60 Thinner ratio. I find a 50:50 mix still too thick so like it thinner. Mix in a glass jar. Exact ratio is not important - just eyeball it. Stir to mix, DO NOT SHAKE!!! You do not want air bubbles in a Polyurethane ever. They bust on top as you are painting and leave mini craters - no good. Stir gently, then brush on. Let dry, and recoat. Time depends on weather. Hot days - 1 hr. Cool days - till dry to touch. Lightly sand for craters before second coat. Recoat 2-3 times or more if you like. This will leave a bullet proof finish over your soft latex/ acrylic paints. Now you can use that table anywhere. For UV protection from sun light, use Spar Varnish instead of PolyUrethane. It is highly resistant to direct sunlight. I like Satin finish, not Glossy. Any amount of Gloss increases dripping factor and piece looks tacky like cheap furniture. Satin has a matte sheen, but is not flat, it is silky to touch. For highly polished look, last sanding should be with 400 grit super fine. Use 400 grit Wet Dry Sand paper and some beeswax melted and mixed with Flaxseed Oil or Raw Linseed oil. Polish piece with 400 grit paper and this waxy oil mix, then buff to a soft gleam.

[@tatianachristou9944]

Thank you for your super speedy response and detailed instructions. Really really appreciate it. I’ve read it so many times it’s just so informative.. I live in a village in a central Greece where I don’t get milk paint, shelllac, miniwax etc. until I figure out what is what in Greek, it takes me a while. I have a question. Basically I’m confused with the staining. You said to dilute the oil based stain. But I only have water based stain. Do I need the oil to lock in the stain? After distressing , I suppose this protects the stain not to go all the way to bare wood. Is that why I should use oil based stained? Can I use the water based stain to do the same? Second question, I’ve been told it’s a must to prime bare wood or use an undercoat to prime raw wood. If I prime , will it still allow me to see the wood grains or will it seal it? I want to achieve a patina with chippy, extra effects, not a full thick coverage. Please clarify. Sorry if I’m asking too making questions. But I already ruined 2 night tables and I soo disappointed. Thank you in advance

[@lass-inangeles7564]

@@tatianachristou9944 Glad this was useful Tatiana! With regard to different products, no worries. You will get all the basics in any country. Milk paint is only useful in campervans where you are sleeping in a small enclosed area and should not have any toxic fumes from oil paints to breathe all night. Otherwise, not necessary. Stain - Water stain or oil stain works just as well. Stain does not have to be locked in. Either one is fine. Water stain does raise the wood grain on open grain woods like oak, but not much on closed grain woods like mahogany. Water stain dries faster, is more delicate, raises grain a bit, and has many color choices, does not lubricate dry wood, and extended shelf life. Oil stain takes longer to dry, is more robust, does not raise grain, has fewer color choices, and may dry out if not closed properly, and also lubricates dry wood with the oil. You do not have to ‘prime’ wood. In some open grain woods like oak, some people like to use a filler to fill in the large wood pores and get a smoother wood finish, but I find it is artificial and awful. Oak has an honest look and is best left with a simple finish. One think I do like to do. Most wood is very dry. It needs to relax and be moisturized, like a dry face with face cream. So I like to use Boiled Linseed Oil to condition my wood. The wood feels very happy after a good soaking in this oil. So, if you stain with water stain, let dry. Make sure the stain is nice and strong, not too light. Then put some Boiled Linseed Oil over the whole piece, and let it soak in for 5-10 mins, adding more if surface looks dry. Then wipe off with rags or paper towels/tissue. Now you have to let it dry 2 days - surface should be dry, not sticky. This is an optional step, but I find it lubricates the wood and no warping of wood, it makes the wood ‘happy’. Now you do your painting, one coat, scrape, and 2nd color, then scrape. If you use a sanding machine then too much of paint and stain comes off. You cannot reapply stain - remember that. You can reapply paint, but not stain. That is why you have to be careful to remove with a scraper or hand sand it. The stain below is the bare wood showing through. If stain comes off, then wood looks white underneath and that is not a consistent bare wood coloring. You might like it but if you don’t, you cannot fix it with stain again - it will not hold once you oil or paint the piece. Stain only penetrates bare dry wood. Lets say you stain a light wood piece in brilliant turquoise water stain! Then you use a terracotta reddish brown latex paint over it, scraping off here and there to expose the turquoise. That would look lovely. Add a second color lightly here and there with a dry brush - maybe a creamy white or beige brown or green. Now you have 3 colors. Scrape paint when damp, or sand when dry. You can also wipe off paint with a rag at any raised sections to look like natural aging. When project is dry, put 3 coats of polyurethane on it, lightly sanding between coats. Again - No need to prime the wood!

[@tatianachristou9944]

Thanks for all your information and tips. You are so concise and helpful. My tablet fell and broke and my phone is too small to see. Anyway finally can communicate. Was researching where to find linseed oil. Got it . We have lockdown here and got it online. But I do want to thank you for all your time and instructions. You certainly clarified the use of milk paint. I thought this was the only paint I should use because it chips naturally. But You informed me I can scrape and go with latex too. Shocked! Since I have both the calcium carbonate and paris of plaster. Should I add it to the latex paint? Or just use pure latex?,, Last question, have you worked with gesso before layering the 2 Colors? I was watching Amy Howard and Ferragoz patinas on KZbin and they say to gesso before painting?, Im assuming there was no staining before the gesso as this is another technique with a finish of antique powder over wax. Amazing. Just wanted to keep this in.mind. Because I have many projects pending . . But as a full time mom of 3 and fixing up my unfinished house I sometimes have to leave projects in the middle . But I still have to paint 3 night tables , a dining table , console, and some vintage chairs. It's been a long time since I painted my 3 headboards for my girls. I needed guidance and you gave it to me. Thanks

[@sibode]

0:32 BODY once told me

[@leavesofdecember]

gorgeous !! also, I don't know if anybody else noticed this, but I've watched like a million videos like this so far and literally every one of them was made by a women ! I'm just blown away at how much patience and care these women have for this type of work and their contribution seems infinite !!

[@bL3dbL4k]

Nice work. I personally liked it best at 2:25 as it showed darker hints and a little wood. But great technique, although I'd probably mess it up!

[@Mimibryant0123]

Fantastic look and instructions. I appreciate the tutorial and plan to soon be using it. BTW, I hope you enjoy your door for a long time, I know I would. Thanks and great job.

[@MrCoopersdad]

I may have made a mistake. I brushed on an oil based stain onto my project rather than a water based. I then tried cleaning the dried stain with paint thinner. Hoping I haven't totally screwed the pooch on this. Should I do something else before applying my latex chalk paint?

[@tabathastaples7884]

Awesome !! Awesome !! Awesome !! you are my type of Lady... just go for it and make it your OWN!!!

[@lisa-xj2zc]

OMG😍😍😍😍😍 the best tutorial yet!!!!! I love the way that turned out!!! Beautiful!

[@lifesuchasthis3932]

First time watching you loved the door

[@diggler306]

I commend you on all that work! The end result is awesome. I would have quit 1/3 of the way through, so good on you! lol

[@buckbuck9225]

Im absolutely sure it looks like shit.staining plastic and just.hoping for the best is no plan.

[@fishbonefla5917]

Nice!! I’m going to try it, but I think I’m going to go with the black hardware and rail

[@petermcgonnell783]

Seems like an awful lot of work for a door that doesn't suit that room. I'd tackle the window frames next.

[@DoTheHeaddbandToggle]

Screw spacers on the other side of the rail on the wall and it will bring the door out far enough to where it don’t hit the wall u can use wood or anything really

[@wxfield]

Put at least one clearcoat over the finished faux finish to keep it from peeling and it'll last years.

[@DoTheHeaddbandToggle]

Too much paint! About mid ways thru it looked the best but great job!

[@stanekmartin001]

Lady. I'm laughing. Great job. You are the inspiration.

[@pinktabbypaperie6057]

Looks great! Love the chippy effect.

[@31janicke]

That came out awesome. Love that you added that blueish green, great touch.

[@Shade_Spector]

I want an electric buffer. What kind do you have?

[@neilrobertgrayson]

Never seen an end clamp done this way. Really cool. Will remember this method. Thanks for the vid.

[@madonnadougherty9635]

How long do you wait for after applying wax to then apply paint?

[@lylegallien5634]

Do I have to use milk paint or will any type of paint work ?

[@Dannon1111]

Next time just ask a farmer. I think have about ten real doors that look like that just laying around. Looks good though...lots of work

[@Sawdustgirl]

If I knew any farmers to ask, I would have. Might come looking for you if I need another! :-)

[@himfrom]

What a discusting looking door she ended up with, in a near perfect room. Total waste of time and effort.

[@Sawdustgirl]

Nothing is for everyone.

[@deemic1551]

Very well done. Really does look antique, mainly thanks to your patience and your good 'eye'.

[@negara54]

Good one. This is one of the first I've seen which is really convincing. So many 'distressing' videos on KZbin look so Disneyfied, paying little attention to how paint behaves and how/ where it wears when in general use. Some practitioners add strokes of paint to make it appear as if paint has worn off. So unconvincing. This video really mimics the paint and how it behaves with age. (Co-efficient of linear expansion)

[@Sawdustgirl]

Thanks. If I'm going to do "faux", I want it to look like the real deal.

[@lisagordon6355]

marvellous

[@vendycv]

i regreting my college life as an interior designer student, why did i just find your channel now =)) anyway, i really enjoy see your work! love the door btw

[@Sawdustgirl]

+vendy valentino Thank you. I loved my interior design courses and that's actually how I got started in this whole design/build/remodeling gig!

[@shorahannani]

Thank great tutorial!!

[@MadelineDAmato]

Cannot believe that's not wood! I'm in love with it. The blue green layer at the end made such a difference!

[@Kman.]

*Madeline* Much less weight than what a door that old (solid) would have been too.

[@lynnwittet1301]

Wow! That was fantastic. Thank you for sharing, I am totally inspired now :-)))

[@Rickmakes]

Awesome result! If I hadn't seen you make it, I would think it was a lead paint hazard. ;)

[@Sawdustgirl]

+RickMakes Yikes. Nope, no lead in this paint. Thanks!

[@JournyOfaPeacefulRuller]

Cool door!!! Who knew eh... Those forgotten accidental finds in the shop are always so satisfying.

[@Sawdustgirl]

THanks. I like that door way more all chippy than what it was!

[@JournyOfaPeacefulRuller]

Sandra Powell aka {Sawdust Girl} From what I saw, I double that notion. It has so much more character now, lack of better words... it’s SOOooooooooo pretty!!!

[@LZACCARO]

Hi Sandra. Good job. Well done I like this kind of effect. Congrats. ZACCARO

[@ReigningWomban]

Beautiful job!

[@victoriabrowill]

Can you use chalk paint instead

[@ezzathanna1]

No trying to be rude , I am one of your subscribers , but this painting is awful

[@Sawdustgirl]

+Ezzat Hanna LOL Well it's definitely not a style everyone is going to like.

[@LynnLaceyLLWW]

Great project Sandra - and a very good explanation of how you painted the door. Thanks

[@Sawdustgirl]

+Lynn Lacey Thanks.

[@LenaJohansenMUA]

It looks really, really god :-)

[@vanessastevens10]

Freakin awesome! Thanks!

[@trungdungthecarpenter3292]

Great! Thank you lady!

[@confusedsay]

Nice thank you for sharing!

[@devonwoods500]

😍😍 love love love!! Fixing to do this to all of my interier doors!! All real wood doors salvaged from the barn that came with the house we purchased!! Can't wait!!!

[@Sawdustgirl]

I'd love to see that!

[@Aimeeevps]

Me too lol what makes me sick I grew up in a home built 1852 an they demolished I HAD A CHANCE TO GRAB ANYTHING I WANTED THE PREVIOUS OWNERS had painted the solid wood amazing detailed doors a ugly green an back then I was so young I didnt think anything an said I just want 1 of the mantels which u still have an plan on doing this to it...I do live in the same town an tons of old ppl have barns an give the filling pieces if u ask. Hahaha they dont see any worth in them

[@Woodtoolsworkshop]

Looks like you painted the dog in the background, too!

[@Sawdustgirl]

+Wood Tools Workshop Haha He came that way.

[@Shade_Spector]

What air gun do you have?

[@TheHandystanley]

Major awesome job Sandra! Really want to apply this technique to some projects down the road. Do you have any references for any additional information on this? Thanks!!

[@Sawdustgirl]

+Stanley Pearse THere's a link if the description to my blog post.

[@authorworld]

I love that look. That's why i'm viewing your video. However the process scared me off.

[@avijitsengupta7085]

While illustrating "AMERICANS" talks tooooooh much.

[@annbritton1669]

i dont think you will need a guide/channel on the floor, try a guide its a small piece that attaches to wall and cups the bottom of the door is almost invisible from face of door and leaves the floor clean. I think Baldwin hardware

[@AcornHillHomestead]

Very good job! 👍🏻

[@paulkorakas8778]

madona santa of the forests i am the door speaking i suffer,so much scratch ,,help help help i am only joking its beautiful...pavlo de grece

[@Kman.]

Awesome job, yes. I'd want to antique the metal plates to match the door...they look too new.

[@jamesbruce9418]

You did a great job !

[@savannahmercado5995]

Awesome!!!!! Love it!!! Thank you!!!

[@yuykla]

hi, i am in complete awe of your work. I have watched this video over 10x now. i have one questions: would that work on an ikea flat bookcase. Thanks! again loooove the work!

[@x3NaDaLoIsCax3]

Instead of using wax, could you use something like Vaseline? Or is there a specific benefit to using the wax?

[@yayaglass]

Fantastic Job, congrats on that studio space! OK, I envy it, actually, must be honest. Keep the vids coming!

[@MrCoopersdad]

Nicely done, I love the end result. Will start collecting various colors of milk paint

[@prakkari]

Nice. I think it could have used a wash of very diluted black wiped off lightly just to give it the old dirt look.

[@satishbhujbal4514]

please arrange to write me details procedure with material to be used for chipping paint

[@louisefrance9967]

I think you did a wonderful job. I have just applied the wax technique to distress the paint on a door and it looks great. Thanks for the tip!

[@mikecell8323]

Interesting finish! As a 25 year finisher sprayer this not my taste but very cool effect all the same :)

[@ginamaria2579]

I love the way this door turned out, amazing.. I am having a new house built & really want to try this on the existing pantry door, do you think it can be done ?

[@FANG1950]

The finish you achieved on the door reminds me of the door at my grandmothers when I was about 9 or 10...it led to the larder..

[@Lyn-no1ci]

What a great tutorial, I wanted a furniture aging tutorial that didnt look super DIY and this is perfect

[@amoora3292]

Great Look

[@themediterranean7669]

Thank you!!!!!!

[@deeharwood]

Love your Door!!!!

[@jlcollins7673]

Currently under remodel. Our contractor told us we needed to use solid doors for the sliding barn wood doors.

[@Theseus_Alexey]

Greetings from Russia. Thx for your lesson. Was Good!

[@walkedrocket2208]

Can I paint my fidget spinners like this or is it not DaNk eNoUgH¿¿¿

[@Aimeeevps]

Love love love tysm. I love this idea an ty for the instructions u was very easy simple an to the point.

[@asaheldavalos8041]

Amazing

[@beckylacroix653]

Good work only thing missing is your gloves: safety wise lol.

[@mozes42]

Did you use any kind of brackets on the floor to keep the door in place?

[@анниелниф]

looooooove it!

[@militarygradegear4004]

Comment #200!

[@ljsphotos123]

Sometimes, it looks like you are moving really fast!

[@Remodelaholic]

Sandra! This looks so amazing! Such a great tutorial!

[@Sawdustgirl]

Thanks so much!

[@janinetapp6482]

Love love ❤️

[@mikewisdom5664]

Super cool

[@petercoctostan1937]

but. why?

[@karinlm741]

I love this!!! What is a wax paint, and Latex enamel? Not sure we have this in Australia...Is Latex enamel, oil based paint, or water based?

[@Sawdustgirl]

Latex is water borne. Milk paint and chalk paint are water borne also. The wax is put on the door to make the paint not adhere to the door in spots...to make it flake off.

[@SynapticDance]

If you have a five year old...BINGO! Cant wait for starting this great project with him! Thank you for that beautyfull inspiration!

[@Sawdustgirl]

LOL

[@Retroweld]

You do the coolest stuff. Love it.

[@Sawdustgirl]

+RetroWeld Oh thanks man!

[@honolulupolkadot6668]

did it continue to chip and flake?

[@Sawdustgirl]

no

[@اوراقالخريف-د8ب]

يعني اقدر اغير لون الباب الخشب الى لون .جميل جدا .شكرا

[@ickysan]

That looks killer!!! I've been looking for a distressed/peeled paint technique like this! Thank you! Curious: what's that awesome circular saw with the guide? I need me one of those!❤📐📏🔨🔧

[@Sawdustgirl]

That's a track saw -- game changer!

[@disconeil]

WOW! Who would have thought so much work went into making a door look old! This is an amazing job, I was transfixed watching your video as the door became more and more aged! Thank you for taking your time to share this. An excellent job! N.

[@Sawdustgirl]

+Neil “Slugger” George Thanks Neil. It was a super fun process and difficult to stop and let it be enough! lol

[@TurkiyeCumhurbaskani]

i would have added rust to the hinges as well

[@davidgc6794]

Nice work! It looks amazing!

[@000000Kimo]

That looks awesome. 💖

[@walkedrocket2208]

Does anyone know why I can't paint my shoe?

[@ShopDawgWoodworking54]

Door looks great! Not sure I would have the patience for all those coats of paint and scraping. lol Room is really coming together.

[@Sawdustgirl]

+ShopDawgWoodworking It was a really enjoyable process which is probably why I did SOOO many layers. It was mezmorizing! LOL

[@queenopearls]

Fantastic! Your 5 gazillion layers worked wonders! :))))

[@Sawdustgirl]

+queenopearls Haha. Thanks! It was pretty fun so I kept going way longer than necessary to get this look.

[@greetjenijdam]

Great work. Beautifull.