How to Clean Motorcycle Carburetors

[@louisianna44]

Just starting into GT750 rebuild. Your videos are super helpful! And relaxing to watch!!

[@binlagin]

I just was given a good condition 95 Seca II... I'm not overly experienced in wrenching on things, escpially carbs... these videos have given me the confidence to attempt this myself. I will share my results... thanks man!

[@JustFixIt99]

binlagin Glad to help. There is nothing complicating about fixing motorcycles. Its all just nuts and bolts going around and around.

[@binlagin]

JustFixIt99 I was able to get my bike running because of your video! Rode it to work today :) Thanks man

[@JustFixIt99]

Awesome! Nothing better than riding on a machine that you fixed yourself. There's a certain sense of pride in it that doesn't come from anything else.

[@binlagin]

JustFixIt99 Especially when my girlfriends father GAVE me the motorcycle. Then said.. come back Wednesday and we'll get it running. He crapped his pants when I rode up on it today :)

[@JustFixIt99]

lol, theres a good way to impress the father in law :)

[@domalbe51882]

Very very helpful in my carb servicing, which I have exactly the same unit.. thank you so much for posting, keep up the great job, stay safe...

[@Deagle123]

Dude this was an incredibly helpful video. I have to pull the carbs on my 750 Seca soon to clean the enrichment circuit, but I was concerned at how hard this would be. After seeing this I'm much more confident it will be more than manageable. Thanks for taking the time to make this!

[@JustFixIt99]

+Deagle123 Glad you found it so helpful! Good luck getting yours running again, take it one step at a time and there's really nothing on a motorcycle thats complicated to fix.

[@MrNeilg71]

Great video. Thanks you - I've been avoiding this job on my $600 AUD 1985 XJ 750. Thanks to you, I'm going to give it a go. Cheers!

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to help :) Be sure to like, share, and subscribe

[@XeroSHWANG]

same bike im watching this video for yamaha XJ 750 lol

[@KiLLaDaTa]

just wondering if i needed them, or if i would get more air without them.... do you know if i replace one float valve assembly should i replace them all? well really all i need is a screen for one, it has a hole in it, any ideas? you rock man

[@JustFixIt99]

A small black crescent moon shaped plastic one? While mine didn't have one I have seen CV carbs with this cover before. Yours may be a different year than mine or mine may simply have been missing. The cover usually just pops out and then you can get to the jets to clean them.

[@snottyvar]

Thanks. I'm restoring the same bike. After a quick look I am a subscriber. Cheers

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to hear. I hope to be able to return to these sorts of projects this winter.

[@nor4277]

I hope you like it as much as I have.again best of luck to you,anyone who is restoreing my favorite bike can't be all the bad.

[@nor4277]

I trying to find all of your videos I can watch ,great job,I glad you have a buffing wheel,handy as he'll,wish I have one back then ,have you ever heard of never dull ,I think that's right,it's in a tin can of different sizes ,it's a cotton waddling with a wax impregnated into it,just rub on aluminum and rub a little and your metal,and it will look like chrome the ore you rub the smoother it get and shinnie too

[@JustFixIt99]

Thanks, I try my best...Ahh Neverdull, up, spent many hours with a tin of that stuff and aluminum car rims.

[@nor4277]

So you no it works then, it's all so hard work. Everybody looking forward to your finish bike we are cheering you on, shows you what a following this bike has

[@Nicodemayo]

Hello, Great video and extremely helpful. Not sure if you'll see this question, but I've disassembled this same set of carbs off my xj750 seca. I have all the jets noted on size and where they go, but my question is, do any of them require a certain number of turns in when replacing are are they just hand tight? Also the emulsion tubes, does it need to be replaced a certain way as for the holes in them to point to a certain direction? Thanks so much.

[@JustFixIt99]

+Nicodemayo Glad it helped. The jets all go in snuggly. Only mixture screws get a certain number of turns out. Most emulsion tubes are keyed and will only fit in one way. I can't remember if the xj750 carbs were or not. Of there is no keyway then it shouldn't matter.

[@mikekurtz627]

where is part 2 of this assembling the carbs back together?

[@JustFixIt99]

I never made one as assembly is the reverse of disassembly. However you are not the first to ask this. The next set of carbs I have in my garage I will make a complete tear down and reassemble video.

[@mikekurtz627]

@@JustFixIt99 so did you not adjust the float level or just leave it?

[@JustFixIt99]

@@mikekurtz627 I almost always (99% of the time) don't bother to set the float hight. Its never really an issue unless its been screwed with previously.

[@woodze21]

Looking forward to part 3. I am going to be getting one of these, albeit in working condition but I want to give it a really good tune up before I start commuting on it. Great video maybe cut out some of the middle bits if there is nothing going on, just a suggestion.

[@HitaDrum19]

I have an '83 Seca 750 that recently started running rough, especially on acceleration. I checked for vacuum leaks with WD40 while running- no leaks found. All plugs look really good and clean/dry. It has pod filters. I recently took my old pods off and found 2 had split rubber boots so i got new ones- didn't help. I'm thinking I got some crap in those carbs maybe and that's causing the problem. It starts right up, idles pretty good. It runs better when i first take off, then worsens as i go a couple miles. I've only had this bike a little over a yr.- has been running great for the most part til now. New gas (as much as i ride it, i fill it every couple days). I ran it with Seafoam in gas like i do every so often. I only run non-oxy gas in it. I've been also suspecting electrical but tried to test with my ohm meter the coil outputs but not even moving my meter so i think i need a more adjustable ohm meter first. Thoughts? Thanks!

[@JustFixIt99]

HitaDrum19 Hey, First off, the whole WD-40 to check for vacuum leaks thing has never worked for me, even with propane I've never been able to find a leak with a flammable fluid\gas. So take a really good look for cracks etc. Since you say it ran well before I'll assume that the carb's are properly jetted for the pod filters that you have on them. Running well then getting worse after a few miles would point to an electric issue. Typically either the coil or the CDI boxes. Is your meter a digital multi meter? Lastly, it could still be the carbs. Sticking floats could restrict fuel flow into the carb bowls. This would cause the bike to run well, then start to sputter as the fuel is drawn down faster than the needle valves are letting it in. Since pods typically make it much easier to remove a bank of carbs I would start with them. Pull them out and give them a good cleaning. That way we know that fueling is good and you won't be chasing your tail. After that we'll move on to the ignition side.

[@justinother3519]

Some carbs have different pieces for each individual carb and they aren't interchangeable, for instance the bowl on carb 1 might be smaller than the bowl on carb 4. It's always good practice to put each individual part you take out back into the exact same place you took it from, and not mix things up because it's a bad deal if you get something wrong and don't know what it is.

[@tamar5261]

I took mine apart thanks to your video and I found the sliders only went up about 10 mm. Further investigation revealed that there were plastic things inside the springs to stop them going all the up. I guess it had been restricted. Would this be the only restrictions or would the jets be changed also?

[@JustFixIt99]

Is this on a UK bike? Without knowing the make and model its really hard to say. Your best bet it probably to ask at the parts counter of your local dealer, or if you have a good local bike shop thats been around for a while. Just off hand though, if the intake size has been restricted by limiting the slide travel, I would bet that the jets were changed to reflect this as well.

[@Old600Rusty]

Wow that's a hell of a video. I bookmarked it. GREAT JOB!!!

[@JustFixIt99]

Thanks, I'm glad to help. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe

[@royledford5673]

Those screws are NOT Phillips head, but J.I.S.-- Japanese Industrial Standard, and drivers are expensive hard to find. The closest common is PZ2 (#2 size). NOT PH2. I like to reassemble with socket cap (Allen) screws in caps and bowls, a little longer is cool.

[@ronsullivan9215]

a good substitute for fine wire is old clutch/throttle cables etc, cut and untwine, very stiff thin wires and any length you feel comfortable with.

[@JustFixIt99]

Your best bet for the screen is to buy a carb kit if you want to replace it. Depending on the bike you could also splice in an inline filter between the carbs and the gas tank and then not worry about the screen with the hole in it. Some bikes don't agree with inline filters though.

[@jerryking1434]

What solution do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner ...???

[@JustFixIt99]

I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner.

[@Yank420able]

please let me know when part two is available

[@JustFixIt99]

I wasn't really planning on a part two. Is there a question you had that I left unanswered?

[@KiLLaDaTa]

There was a cover over my air jets I didn't see one your carb what's that for ?

[@claywyman1393]

Would you clean the diaphragms in carb clean? Or would there be a possibility of it hurting them?

[@JustFixIt99]

No!!!! lol, the carb cleaner will attack the rubber parts. Which is why you disassemble and remove them all before cleaning. The diaphragms themselves should be wiped to remove any dirt if its present with a soft cloth, without any solvents.

[@claywyman1393]

JustFixIt99 awesome thanks I figured but wanted to know what to clean them with also so thanks. Great vid btw

[@JustFixIt99]

No problem, glad to help. Be sure to share, like, and subscribe :)

[@SaltyThirdEye]

Thanks a lot just purchased one of these with the carb half apart.

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to help

[@nicolesinfield5213]

Do you have any tips on getting the carbs back on??

[@JustFixIt99]

As in back into the bike? That is usually the tricky part. Usually I find a bank of carbs likes to go back into the side of the bike it came out of. I start by sliding the bank in with the side that faces the engine tilted up, placing the bottom edge of each carb on there respective boot. Then I rotate the bank up into position while at the same time pushing the carbs into their boots.

[@noah2016999]

The thing you punched out with a screw driver that the needle slides through how do you install that back in just push it back through?

[@JustFixIt99]

Yes. Some carburetors have an alignment pin so the emulsion tube (the thing your talking about) will only slide in in one orientation. Others don't care which way they go in.

[@noah2016999]

@@JustFixIt99 alright thanks man, I'll message you if I run into any problems. I got a 82 maxim 550 and I got it running on starting fluid but need to get it running on gas.

[@richardfaulkner4038]

Hi All. We have tried a trick with success when using an ultrasonic cleaner. Instead of filling the whole cleaner's chamber with solution place parts to be cleaned in small poly bags then dip them into the chamber which is filled with plain water. Cloudy ammonia works very well on brass - the clock boys use that.

[@8430mzepeda]

Fantastic video! Thank you!

[@JustFixIt99]

You’re welcome, be sure to like, share, and subscribe

[@jerryking1434]

I've got a 1980 GS 850 has 4 carbs ..sat for 15 yrs at least ...ive got 1 idle mixture screw frozen in place ..someone else has stripped out head of screw ..any advice as to how to remove ..they're not brass ..more like stainless steal..a white metal ..

[@JustFixIt99]

Well if it is completely stripped I’d 1) see if could find an extremely small easy out type extractor, 2) carefully begin drilling it out until I could use a pick or the like to coax out the remaining threads or fold it into the center to remove it in pieces. Failing all of that, finding a used carb body on eBay or Craigslist may be a path to keep in mind. Good luck!

[@JustFixIt99]

Sadly part 3 will probably be a bit of a let down. The parts to fix it were more than it was worth and I was unable to source a good parts motor. That being said most of the basic maintenance on all 4 strokes from this era will be very similar and I always have a project bike so hopefully some of my future videos will be equally helpful

[@KiLLaDaTa]

The top end where the slides are there's a 30 and a 225 air jet mine has a cover

[@midnightmotorsports6490]

Do you have to set the float height when you remove them?

[@JustFixIt99]

Its always good practice to check and set the float hight. That being said I almost never do and have never had any issue.

[@hotrod1ish]

The Pencil type torch tip cleaner works excellent to clean out the passages...Be careful with them, the are fluted, like a drill bit.

[@athruf4931]

have a video of putting it back together?

[@JustFixIt99]

I didn't film the reassembly. As I mentioned its really just putting it all back together how it came apart. The only thing to watch is how many turns out you set all the mixture screws, which should be available in the service manual, or from a quick google search. If you think it would be useful, when I do the carbs on my current project I'll show the reassembly.

[@mrp410]

Some people boil the carbs in water for some period as opposed to using throttle cleaner. What' your opinion on that? Cheers - good video.

[@JustFixIt99]

I have only tried that once. I found it to be a bit of an annoyance as you needed a way to boil a pot of water on your workbench. The heat can also discolour the aluminum castings of the carbs. So I can't really say. If I tried it more than once and had good results then maybe I'd recommend it, but I don't have enough data to go either way. I've also heard of people boiling them in lemon juice..... Personally I've always had luck with solvent. So for me, if it aint broke....

[@mrp410]

@@JustFixIt99 OK thanks. Yeah I wondered about how to boil water in a garage setting!

[@JustFixIt99]

@@mrp410 When I tried it I used an old propane camp stove. The issue I had was that it took forever to boil a pot of water big enough to cover the carbs in.... I'm just too impatient for it :)

[@mrp410]

@@JustFixIt99 me too! Cheers.

[@kamgurek]

I used the spray to clean Carburetors, well it dissolves dirt and sediment and leaves a protective layer, then just blow compressor, I recommend ...

[@JustFixIt99]

I too usually use carburetor cleaner. However full disassembly is still the only way to do this properly with consistent results every time. Otherwise your just chasing your tail while your troubleshooting.

[@JustFixIt99]

Yes, if your carb has them you need them. Carberators are not like fuel injected vehicles of today where more air=more power. That works with fuel injection because there are sensors that see the extra air and compensate by adding more fuel. If you just add more air to a carburetor it leans out the mixture as the carb can't add more fuel to compensate without you upping the size of the jets.

[@alfiehenson2944]

Where are you bowl seals ? For the float bowl?!

[@JustFixIt99]

They remained stuck to the float bowls when I took them off. I didn't see a pint in damaging them by trying to remove them as in my experience if you don't disturb them they rarely leak when reused.

[@drewkells]

Hey, I have a seca Ii, I have some questions for you...can you help me out if you dont mind.

[@JustFixIt99]

I’m not a seca expert by any means, but I’d be glad to try and answer your questions.

[@tamar5261]

My secca 600 carbs leak from somewhere, it's not a sticky float and all the bowl gasket are new. I'm not sure where else it could come from. Any ideas?

[@JustFixIt99]

Have you accurately set the float heights using the correct factory setting? Other first guess would be a leaky bowl drain screw, or if the o-rings that join the carb fuel supply lines in between the carbs.

[@tamar5261]

@@JustFixIt99 thanks for the reply. No I haven't set the floats, the bike was running fine then this. It's ok some days and some days it's drip drip drip. I'll check the feed line, I guess I need to split the carbs to get at it? Just re-read an earlier reply off of you... I de- restricted the carbs last summer and you said they might have been re jetted for the restrictors.. could this be the problem? The problem seems to coincide with the removal of the top hats in the vacuum Chambers.

[@JustFixIt99]

@@tamar5261 Can you tell me, or describe exactly what you did to derestrict the carbs? We didn't get restricted models here so I'm a little hazy on that. If you haven't done so yet, be sure to read your plugs to make sure you're not running lean. I would maybe compare the jets in your carb (should have a size stamped on them) to the size speced for markets that weren't restricted to see what the factory did. I can more or less say however that it very unlikely that derestricting it caused the leak. To change the o-rings you would indeed need to split the carbs. Perhaps when its dripping you could get in there with a mirror, or a borescope and see where it's coming from. It would make troubleshooting this easier.

[@tamar5261]

@@JustFixIt99 in the vacuum Chambers were little plastic things that look like top hats, they stopped the sliders from opening up fully. They only opened up about 25pc. I will definitely pull the carbs apart soon, the mirror thing is a good idea as I suspect it's an o ring somewhere along the line hopefully.

[@JustFixIt99]

@@tamar5261 I would strongly suggest checking your jetting. I would be shocked if it wasn't running lean. Be very careful as you can easily melt pistons that way... ask me how I know....

[@Vince-lq3ve]

Help! When I tried to remove the main jet the emulsion tube spins. This occurred on the first one and i didn't realize it was a problem until it all actually became quite loose. I wasn't getting anywhere with the jet so I stuck my finger inside the venturi and confirmed the emulsion tube was spinning with the jet as i loosened it. I went to the next main jets and the same spin is confirmed immediately -I stopped right away on those ones so i think they are not damaged. I would really like to get all this apart to properly clean the tiny holes of the emulsion tubes. Any thoughts?

[@JustFixIt99]

Hmmm, thats a new one. maybe try pushing down on the top of the emulsion tube with something like a pencil eraser that won't damage it to hold it in place while you turn it? You might need to get progressively more destructive with holding the tubes in place. If you do destroy them odds are you can still buy them in a carb kit. As a last resort I would try an impact gun on them.

[@Vince-lq3ve]

A new one? Darn! I was hoping this was a common problem -my luck. I've left the carb rack in the freezer in the hopes of creating a tighter fit for the pressed in tubes and will apply a "gripper" to the tubes from inside the venturi in the hopes of breaking the jets loose. We'll see.

[@JustFixIt99]

I'm afraid not, I've cleaned a lot of carbs and never had that issue.....

[@Vince-lq3ve]

Well, I fixed it...I doubt few have ever heard the following sentence: "I rebuilt my carbs with a handheld high speed grinder". But it actually worked. I carefully ground the heads off each jet and the tubes simply dropped out. Then a little torch heat and some pliers and the leftover jet screwed out way too easily. So next time anyone posts a "how to rebuild carbs" video please add high speed grinder under the list of tools needed. On a more serious note, any advice when I reinstall the tubes once I get my new Jets. I am thinking they will just spin before I can get any serious tightening happening.

[@JustFixIt99]

The vast majority or carbs I've seen have the emulsion tubes keyed so they can't rotate and only fit in one way. I wonder if yours are missing or sheered off.....

[@MrRhenMaster]

hello, I have a 1982 Yamaha xj750j. when I bought the bike one of the float bowel drain screw broke off half way into the threads. I see one on eBay I can buy. if I don't change it out can it harm my bike? and If I have to replace can I replace without taking the whole carburetor off? ( very left carb) manageable.

[@JustFixIt99]

Is the screw leaking fuel when the bike is running? If not then I wouldn't worry about it too much. I've never actually used a drain screw on any bike I've owned. I don't see any way to replace the bowl without removing the all the carbs though as the screws will require quite a bit of force to get out ofter all these years, and probably vice grips as I show in the video.

[@MrRhenMaster]

no it's seems to be sealed up just fine. that's good to know, a ease of mind haha. thank you! your video helped me out big time.

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to help

[@loveforthegame3]

i found this video extremely helpful. liked and subscribed

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad to have helped... I really have to get around to editing my new videos......

[@sergiolomeli22]

thanks your video is very helpful and informative

[@JustFixIt99]

+sergio lomeli always glad to help :)

[@sergiolomeli22]

i got to cleaning mine today. i got a good deal on the for 40 from canada to build y project , thanks again .. do you have a vid on the wiring elect stuff ?

[@JustFixIt99]

Not yet, but hopefully that will be coming this summer

[@theryan6623]

hey man.... awesome video.. I can say how much this help me out...

[@mladens91]

A really good video, thank you.

[@JustFixIt99]

Mladen Saulić Glad to help

[@oHeihei]

Thanks for the video :D I just picked up an old Maxim 650 as my first bike and it was running perfectly fine for the first 3 weeks, then all of a sudden the idle dropped and the bike started drying at lights. It's probably just the idle screw that needs to be adjusted, but I figured I might as well take the whole thing out and clean it anyways. You said how they fought you coming out and I had the same issue. Now it's night time, I don't have a garage or a good outside light so I can't see anything, and it seems like there's no way those things are going in. Gonna give it a good fight tomorrow when it's bright out and see if the bike runs any smoother :) How was your battle on getting the carbs in?

[@JustFixIt99]

Warheroguy Been a while since I filmed this, but I seem to remember it wasn't particularly fun. I seem to remember I slid the carbs in with the engine side facing up and the air box side down. Then rotated the carbs into the engine side intake boots. Then using a flat bladed screwdriver (carefully so as not to poke holes in the boots) coaxed the air box boots around the carbs... Frankly it its pretty fiddly work. All I can say is what ever you do, DO NOT TAKE OFF THE ENGINE SIDE CARB BOOTS!!!! The bolts are almost guaranteed to snap off... then you will hate yourself... Good luck!

[@oHeihei]

JustFixIt99 Thanks! :D And ya, that's just about exactly what I ended up doing. At first I put the carbs on then tried putting those air box side boots on but over the years they just became so stiff it was way to much of a pain, so I used the flat headed screw driver method haha.

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad ya got it back together. Hows it running now?

[@oHeihei]

Sounds better! Definitely an improvement, but it's running rich still. So have to figure that out. Good learning experience though :)

[@moonstation8585]

great stuff!!! BIG help! can't thank you enough!!

[@wobu5361]

What I like about these hitachi carbs (compared to the similar mikuni) is that the fuel T (main fuel intake ) is between the first and second carb so it is easy to remove the first carb from the rack to replace the o rings on the fuel T connector . Often, on these old bikes, the rubber o rings are hard and you get a fuel leak right at the connector between the two carb bodies

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad it made life easier for you!

[@stevenlafontaine8114]

Your vidio has been very helpful. But you are wrong about the main fuel jet being the higher number . At least on a 1985 xj700 Maxim. Jets are Main #107 / Pilot #365.

[@JustFixIt99]

Could be, I think I made this video almost 10 years ago so I can’t really remember to be honest.

[@ronniec8038]

Great video.

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad you liked it, hopefully it helped you out. Be sure to share, like, and subscribe!

[@spencerbauman2612]

great video thanks alot! keep it up

[@JustFixIt99]

oh and you don't need to replace float valves in sets. As long as they don't leak they're fine. Just replace the bad ones.

[@optimusblaine5094]

This is the solution to which problem. I'm having low idle and dies at idle

[@JustFixIt99]

Dirty carburetors can cause both the problems you mention. It is also the first diagnostic step to getting a bike running correctly. Once the carbs are clean you can move on to other possibilities. Otherwise you'll more than likely be chasing your tail.

[@se7ensnakes]

JustFixIt99 Yeah but it would be a bummer to remove, clean. reinstall the carbs just to find out that your rings or valves are causing a leak.

[@JustFixIt99]

se7ensnakes Yes that is a possibility, but with old bikes that's just the way it goes. Carburetors are always the first port of call. Rings\valves probably wouldn't cause a low idle\stalling.....

[@nor4277]

Have you ever heard of a lub.called tri flow,its sold at I think at ace hardware stores ,its like WD 40 with Teflon in it,for next time you get stuck parts ,and I thought spokes were stainless steel,guess not,good luck with your bike ,kinda after the fact.

[@JustFixIt99]

Never used triflow, but If I see it I'll pick up a can and see how it works. I've had pretty good luck with both PB blaster and Releasall, but am always willing to try new things.

[@nor4277]

It's work on chains to

[@nor4277]

Do they still make a product call chain lube a self drying chain lube

[@JustFixIt99]

No idea, I've always used chain wax

[@nor4277]

Never heard of it, I hope it's great stuff for you. Now the new chain have one rings too. Wish we would have have them to, they were a pain to clean, now they have solvent instead of gas,, we use to heat up oil and kinda boil our clean chains. Shows how old I am, I was 21 when I bought my 750 and paid 1900.00 for it, I got one of first in southern California. 1970

[@MicahMartinPEI]

very helpful, thank you!!

[@JustFixIt99]

glad to help

[@JoaoCosta-tt9ot]

Hi does anyone have a hitachi hsc33 for sale its for my yamaha maxim 700 1985

[@germvanpopta6487]

on ebay there is one for 300 dollars

[@rsleeper7201]

I'm aware it's highly unlikely do you still have this bike

[@JustFixIt99]

sadly not

[@aparalyzedconch]

Haha I want this bike for parts even though it didn't work out for ya.

[@JustFixIt99]

+Stephen Copeland I did end up paring it all out, Everything but the frame and the short block was sold off

[@ทักษิณปัญญาเพียง]

สวัสดี ครับ 😍😍😍

[@skordalia60]

hella justfixit, regarding the carbs do you still have them? If yes send me an email to [e-mail]. I am trying to rebuild a same bike . Do you have an idea if i can put a mikuni 32 ? the intake holes are identical with the hitachi. What do you think?

[@JustFixIt99]

+Antonis E Sorry, sold them a long time ago. As for the other carbs, you'd have to look up the flow specs for them. I would suspect if the throat sizes are the same then they should be ok. I'm not familial off had with the carbs your using. Are they slide or CV? If you are converting to slide, usually you go a little smaller I believe.

[@stanrose5936]

good way to ruin the carb piston pry up with screw driver

[@JustFixIt99]

Stan Rose as long as your careful you won't hurt anything

[@brandonl5247]

Great video

[@JustFixIt99]

Glad I could help. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe!