How To Clean Vintage Audio Controls With DeoxIT! Please read description!

IMPORTANT: use Fader F5 to clean carbon potentiometers, not D5 or D100!! See this video from XRayTonyB: • How to Clean & Resurre...
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Cleaning the controls on a piece of vintage gear is one of the best things you can do to make it perform at its best. DeoxIT is a spectacular product for this and I explain how to do it in this video. The procedure shown in this video applies directly to Pioneer receivers, but many receivers like Marantz and others use a similar construction and can be cleaned with the same basic steps shown here.
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If you use this video to work on your own gear, I am not responsible for any damage or injury. Perform all work at your own risk.

[@petenamlook18]

Pro tip: buy yourself some D100 in the needle top bottle (non-aerosolized). Then get a 1cc syringe and some 21 gauge needles. Suck up some D100 with they syringe and use it to inject into small places that you can't get with the spray. For example, on those push switches you can often get under the top plate near the back of the switch with the needle and inject D100 directly into the switch. I've found that to work really well with push switches on Marantz and Pioneer units. D100 is magic IMO.

[@henrychinaski5223]

I've brought more equipment back to life with DeOxit than I can count. I've purchased 'dead' receivers, reel decks, cassette decks, etc. and the only problem was dirty controls and belts. Great videos brother! My go to equipment is 70's Sansui and Pioneer. Kenwood always sounded too bassy for me.

[@R.Akerman-oz1tf]

I had a tiny plastic squeeze bottle of D.... It lasted for years. Not how much U use-it's the wait in between applications(if necessary).

[@tima.478]

Funny you should say that. I have a Kenwood KA-4006 and a Pioneer SX-1080. I listen to the Pioneer almost daily...

[@MrGarfield4]

Your video was EXACTLY what I was looking for to apply Deoxit to my vintage Pioneer SX-737. Thank you!

[@DrNoahBoddy004]

A beautiful presentation. I adore Pioneers SX series, they were among the finest ever crafted, and your safe handling was both conscientious, and reassuringly welcomed. I own Lux’s “02” Series pre, and power amp, and I know they need a complete overhaul, but I simply don’t trust some of these folks with my treasured units. You are the exception to this rule. And I sincerely wish you continued success. Thank you very much for posting.

[@leschwartz]

Thanks very much for this video, it was exactly what I was looking for today. One thing I do on my workbench whenever I can is to place the electronic chassis I am working on, on top of a towel, or a silicon or rubber mat, even the sort of mat that is used under a say a dog bowel. I do this so the equipment does not get scratched. For example the black anodized aluminum heat sinks can get scratched if you have to move the chassis on the workbench.

[@PioneerGuy581]

oh i agree 100% i used to work on laptops - these are so dam heavy to move around and i always have to worry about hte dam tuner dial cords and pointers.

[@mxbishop]

I have tried many times, over a couple of years, to clean the balance potentiometer in my McIntosh MA6900 integrated amplifier, using DeoxIT D5, along with some DeoxIT Fader Lube - but no matter how many applications, I could never get the issues to go away. The issues? Lots of static, crackling, and sometimes, the whole left audio channel would just drop out. Yesterday, I tried a new can of CRC QD. I took the knob off the balance control, and the felt pad underneath, and then just sprayed into into the front of the control, where the turn shaft joins with the base. I worked the knob fully about 40 times, and then left it to dry overnight. This morning, the audio is clear as a bell. Not sure if this fix will last - but it does show that not all contact cleaners are created equal. I swear by the DeoxIT line of products, but in this case, they were useless.

[@vpila169]

Have you tried W40. It worked for me better than CRC QD.

[@louise_8546]

I sold faulty Creative T40 MkII 2.0 speakers for next to nothing (power on by clicking the left speaker's volume knob clockwise initially - but after a few years' use it wouldn't "catch"). Still played music as normal - getting them to switch on was the problem. After watching this, I'm wishing I'd opened the speaker up and tried DeoxIT!

[@viol999]

Glad to see that you watched xraytonyb's channel about using deoxit.

[@JerryPemberton]

The end of the video is exactly how I feel about my KLH 23's with my Harman Kardon 730. Perfect sound.

[@Joe-mz6dc]

Very cool video. Thank you for posting. I immediately loved the look of that amplifier so I went to take a look when you said it's expensive and you're not kidding. 3K for a decent one on ebay. Very nice amp!

[@sand0077]

Did a cleaning and major circuit board refresh on a SX-950. Had to be careful with those wound connection wires to each board as they easily break

[@75Krusty]

Hello AH-Fit-It. I opened an older Denon amplifier (AV Surround Receiver AVR-1508), that I had scavenged. It's with RDS radio build in. It were getting quite hot after some time of playing. And there were also a very think blanket of hair and dust inside. So it were no wonder, heat were building up inside. Another reason for me to open up the Denon, were because of the display looked very foggy and almost unreadable. And were thinking the older owner were perhaps a heavy smoker. And also dog-owner with those nasty hair inside. So either the plastic display on the panel had to be cleaned. Or perhaps also the electronic part, that are the hardware part to show the display with perhaps some sort of LED lights. I cleaned both, but discovered that the plastic panel had original some sort of black dust on purpose, in order for the display only show the various lights shinning through. So you get icons and numbers etc. with a black background. Now I have cleaned some of the black dust away, and were wondering were to buy that special kind of black dust, and correct my mistake. Thanks from Krusty in Denmark

[@Omega_Mark]

Watch this video before going wild with D5 all over your pots: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnKnioWuZ8-Eiac

[@subsonicdeathmonkey]

Yes. Use the green formulation for pots and variable resistors. Red for switches. I wish I knew years ago.

[@HoneyWindbutton]

You rule. Thank you

[@ourv9603]

Back in the bad old days before FREON was banned, they used to sell freon in aerosol cans. When you would spray freon on to green corroded electrical connections the connector would turn shiney bright gold. It was amazing stuff. !

[@dbaider9467]

I always was happy with my 15 watts per channel until I heard 70. Oh Boy. Now I understand the "Amp War" of the 1970's.

[@wb5mgr]

Pro Tip: 1: place a microfiber or a paper towel behind the board you are cleaning to catch overspray and runoff. Nobody wants grease and grime in their freshly rebuilt receiver to collect dust. 2: use the minimum amount of contact cleaner needed. Don’t be wasteful and flood it everywhere. I prefer the can with the small removable straw and the three setting adjustable flow head. It only takes a very small amount to do this job. Sometimes I will open a small hole in the switch body to spray in the cleaner if needed and seal it off later with epoxy.

[@AudiophileTommy]

Thanks for this !!!👍👍👍👍✅

[@Faithful_Tribe]

If you use a lightning ‘extension cord’ with your audio adapter: makes them last longer, and a bit easier to move about.

[@richwallace6854]

Have you explained the differenc between "wire-wound" and cheaper " carbon deposit-type" potentiometers?

[@tomaszczyzyk6148]

Great video,thank you 🙂

[@sleepless4042]

Damn im jealous sx 1280 😍

[@mdzacharias]

I've seen this before but I've used D-5 on carbon pots for decades with absolutely NO problems. The only thing is you need to be careful not to wash away lubricants. In that respect it's the same as most cleaners. I usually follow with D-100 though, and blow out excess with tissue packed around pots, etc to keep most runoff away from the board. I don't unsolder pots etc unless absolutely necessary. And the folding straw for the D-5 SUCKS!

[@mikegryn]

Nice video. Thanks. But the viewer needs the pay-off at the end...fully reassembled...looking and sounding pretty. ;)

[@KeithCasper]

Thank you for this!

[@robertlundstrom8061]

Excellent video

[@ungarlinski7965]

So F5 on volume/balance potentiometers but D5 on Stereo-to-Mono up-down switch and Speaker selector switch?

[@vintagewatchhunter]

I have Pioneer C73 preamp. Unlike your amp, I have some static from my volume control knob, and it seems like its sealed as well. How would you recommend cleaning that? Thank you.

[@bongcouplevlog-vlogging]

My pioneer receiver making loud buzz with distortion😢

[@harleywider1]

I own SX 950 as well can I use the Deoxit Fader on my pots or does the 100 work better?

[@user-xq2zn8bu9q]

Brilliant & what type of speakers are those...?

[@livingmaga6299]

My Pioneer sx1080 gets me by with Heresy 4s 👍

[@garysiu5498]

Thks for the video. What’s the tools for remove the tuning knob? Thks

[@eddiev2o9]

1.5 mm Allen key.

[@charlym2426]

Do you have e a video on cleaning a realistic sta 2100d receiver?

[@WilliamNoah-gt8ge]

Great video! Wish I could send you my denon 591 for a repair and cleaning! js

[@jimg7423]

How about the push button switches... Any good tips

[@cheng96818]

I wish i have your knowledge....deng!

[@pauldow1648]

Big job, that.

[@Brucinator68]

If your a 1980 owner and you know it ,clap your hands!

[@kipmillwee6936]

I have a Pioneer SA 7100, there is a slight cut out, if I adjust the volume it comes back. The Pre Amp does have a high white noise type of sound, but I keep the Pre Amp turned off anyway. Feel I should give this a try. What Speakers are you using in this video, they look familiar

[@MrGarfield4]

Does my Pioneer SX-737 have carbon pots?

[@richtrebbien]

good work on that beautiful receiver, those are great for sure. I wonder if those old classics sound better than the newer stuff that I can get on craigslist for cheap? Thanks for your videos!

[@AHFixIt]

They definitely do, especially this 1280!

[@arturovillalpando289]

Hi everyone, I own a Pioneer D1S an I got a pretty bad sounding at both front speakers so my query here is, should I go for D5 or D 100 I believe this three pots all In a row are carbon ones. I’d like to hear your fine comments on the subject. All advise is much appreciated! Thanks.

[@Tony.Technics.1200s]

Even though this is old, I’ll say it anyway. I’d get both, one is a clear/with some lube, and the other is just lube(100). Although this stuff gets expensive quick when stocking up on all the different cleaner from this brand, it’s so worth it. This stuff has saved me on repair costs, and from the time of opening gear. Just know what each product does so you don’t mess something up, otherwise having both products won’t hurt.

[@gioscervelo]

Ever use MG contact cleaner with silicone?

[@vyoufinder]

Are you sure those allen keys are not Japan Industrial Standard sizes? All my photo gear from the '70's and '80's use JIS, but I can usually use something else from metric, SAE, or "cheap tool." I'm considering rebuilding my Sherwood S-7300. I might rather pay someone else to do it. Undecided.

[@PioneerGuy581]

i could not get the tuner knob off my sx-828 - wound up using a star drive key thta fit perfect.

[@tonymannino5672]

What brand name speakers are you using in the backpack? I like the deoxit video. Thanks

[@M0D60]

19:12

[@cheng96818]

Is it pretty much the same procedure for the sx 1980? It doesn’t have any scratchy sound but the highs sometime drops, especially the right channel. Your video is very informative…thank you, sir….

[@AHFixIt]

I have never seen a 1980 but I imagine it is a similar procedure. Be sure to use F products on the pots and D products on the switches.

[@cheng96818]

@@AHFixIt thank you sir for replying...

[@jacknjill3000]

Of one speaker sounds louder and also when you turn the knob all the way to either side. Does that mean the contacts need cleaning and detoxing? I also had a speaker issue and only one side wax coming out full on the phono setting and playing records. I played and jiggled the speaker and phono wire connect behind the receiver and made it work and the sound came back. So it seems mine has contact issues and needs to be cleaned and detoxed. I guess to start I need to get some detox spray. I’m wondering if you don’t clean them for a long time, if the detox gets bad tongue point you no longer can clean the detox? So that’s the reason in the 90’s many of the connection was gold plated to avoid detox build up. I like how careful you are bc I’m the same way. I like to keep all my vintage stuff like new and don’t want to be the one to scratch or break something that’s lasted this long.

[@jacknjill3000]

I wonder when they designed these vintage receivers, if they thought of ppl. could figure out how to get things off. Or did many of these companies just shove everything to to make work and didn’t think about if you had to repair it. Also, there’s vintage receivers have a zillion wire and other stuff inside and you have to know what they all do. Why ppl. that don’t know what they are doing can break and mess things up.

[@jacknjill3000]

So it’s the front controls that need to be clean and not the back inputs?

[@dadday57]

Does the sx-1250 come apart the same way?

[@jimpalmer1969]

Nice DeOx demo. I have a SX737 I bought new at the USN Exchange while stationed in the Philippians 1974. It has burnt out lights, scratchy pots and switches. Also the right channel volume is low in compassion to the left. I have the lights and need to get some DeOx. Were to start, what would be your guess about the low volume?

[@AHFixIt]

Could be a number of things. Start with cleaning the controls and see if it gets better.

[@RobD-jq7ry]

Where are you located? I just got a 2385 thst may need serviced.

[@MK-tj5bf]

Thanks for the video. Question Why did you use D100 instead of D5 for that Pot? Thanks.

[@AHFixIt]

It was a mistake. I should have used F5.

[@MK-tj5bf]

@@AHFixIt thanks for the answer. Could you also tell what is F5 mostly for please?

[@AHFixIt]

Sliders or carbon track potentiometers. Sliders should be followed with fader grease

[@billt3724]

I have a similar unit (Pioneer SX-1080). I removed all knobs except the volume knob. I took both set screws completely out on the volume knob and the knob does not want to come off. I do not want to force it. Any advice to facilitate removal?

[@AHFixIt]

Heat gun. Carefully.

[@billt3724]

@@AHFixIt Thanks man! I finally got it off with some heat from a blow dryer, two flat tip screwdrivers wrapped in painters tape for cushion, and a microfiber cloth to protect the wood area. I did have to apply a little bit of force, but definitely cautiously. Thanks for the advice!

[@mmaranta785]

I didn’t know there were different types of Deoxit

[@janicehopkins4432]

I know someone who found out the hard way.

[@mikekiss648]

Isn't there a potential to be electrocuted even after unplugging a receiver? I thought they need to sit for a long while before touching their guys? Any electricians out there that can explain this and whether I am correct or not?

[@maxcosby8166]

Not an electrician , but, I've noted that at least 30 minutes, or longer for me, after they have been ''unplugged'' you are safe. On Laptops, i've been told no problem 'at all' ,,,,I do know on old TV;s you have a power built up area , end of picture tube, never get close to it....That's all I know, hope it Helps!

[@richardchuray329]

I’m just curious where you get you units to work on. Do you purchase most of them or do you advertise for a small repair business for this channel? I purchased several on eBay to work on as a hobby but as you know, it’s hard to get them cheap enough unless you do it to support your channel. Since I’ve done several now, I have enough confidence to do some limited work for others. Just curious on your situation Also, I don’t have equipment to work on the tuner section. Do you do tuner work or just avoid those repairs? Just curious

[@hifi.david.]

I Trust X ray Tony.

[@homerward8203]

Thanks very informative video. But you shouldn't have it plugged in with the insides exposed. Easy way for something falling in and ground something out and burn it up or get shocked.

[@markfrost2707]

thanks for telling him how to do his job

[@homerward8203]

That's the first thing he did was unplug it.

[@quinterod1000]

I have a 780 how much to restore it

[@paulhansen4559]

I charge 300. to 400. depending what it needs

[@quinterod1000]

@@paulhansen4559 please send po box to send unit for repair

[@tapovlac4417]

You are going to encourage people to mess up the inside of their electronics by making it look so simple. You have to be very knowledgeable to to do what you just did. Is there a way to deox without opening the receiver?

[@len9518]

You can try to squirt into the controls from the outside, but this is mostly ineffective. You really need to get inside.

[@karaDee2363]

It's best to bring it to someone that knows what they're doing

[@KeithCasper]

03:29

[@roroseppel2077]

Have a look here : kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnKnioWuZ8-Eiac

[@vtjmproductionsusa2390]

What you are using should NEVER be used on pots especially the carbon ones It will destroy the carbon track in the pot and wreck the wiping on the pot 43 years and a Certified electronic Technician. So I am very well qualified to give this feedback. I hope it helps someone out there before the destroy at times a almost impossible pot to find a replacement for.

[@stevezelev7008]

VT, thanks for the warning. I have a Yamaha RX-V870 that's over 30 years old. Attached is a B&O Beogram TX2. I have to "giggle" the connecting wires to get the turntable to sound right (low volume and buzz present). I figured the ol' gal is getting too old and I purchased a Denon as replacement. I was so disappointed with the Denon and love the Yammie so much (power, sound and nostalgia), I returned the Denon and was going to try to clean the contacts on the Yammie as seen in the video (I'm a dunce when it comes to electricity). I think I'll just give it to a tech for eval. Thanks for the warning. Any words of wisdom? Thanks Again...

[@frankgrudge8823]

I agree with this dude (speaking from experience :( )

[@BartKus]

8:10

[@eshskis1]

I usually don't comment on videos, but I want to know why your bench is bare plywood and why your not using a esd mat, or a s-d mat, sliding a 1980 around on bare plywood is not something I would do. Other than that thank you for the content.

[@PioneerGuy581]

well my guess is the may will get cut like mine as dragging these things around is hard due to the weight - i seen one guy that uses a bearing platter that spins, these units do not have any esd isssues - they are not like PC, Laptops where a chip will blow out - i have been a pc tech for over 20 years, the main thing is not to have a Rug under your bench - i could see and usd problem if you had your pre-amp up al the way and you touched it may shoot the unit into protection. i had a plywood bench for 10 years - not one laptop ever blew up due to a static discharge, i had a concret floor. if you look at his bench you can see all the scrape marks - that mat would be toast...

[@eshskis1]

@@PioneerGuy581 thanks for the reply I was mostly concerned about cosmetic damage sliding on plywood, I should have said that

[@peleepunk1833]

Dude if you were going to go that far for detox it. Why not just rebuild entire receiver ? Pull the knobs spray down shafts. Open top check see where any holes are on the potentiometers stick tube in spray. Bobs your uncle 😎

[@vpila169]

Next time put a helmet for your safety

[@vsmichael1]

This is the dude that car washed & baked his receiver. Throw that one through the same process.

[@cptsobczak]

Sorry, I had to. Especially since 99.2% of your viewers are male. 5:23 “deeeznutz”

[@waynepollard6879]

Can't see a thing you're doing !