How to clean your prints, even with Dirty IPA!

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Calibrated using my Cubes of Calibration tool
Find my Calibration tool and guide below.
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[@sidar87]

Forbidden smurf juice

[@tomyocom5886]

Thx for the vid. I see a lot of people washing the supports which in a lot of cases has more resin on them than the actual print. I can see if people do not want to touch the Resin and just put all prints supports and all In a cleaner, wash station which ever, but If you are going to touch the prints why not take the supports off first? I also see people right after they rinse in IPA with bare hands take the supports off the prints even though the resin is NOT completely cured... Just some thoughts to ad to your video....and again thanks. I notice my IPA last more than twice as long if I take the supports off before cleaning...

[@J3DTech]

Thank you, and thank you for taking the time to comment. "the supports which in a lot of cases has more resin on them than the actual print." You're 100% correct on this, expicaly with the rafts I use, it's a lot of resin. I get off the first little bit using the spraybottle. "I also see people right after they rinse in IPA with bare hands take the supports off the prints even though the resin is NOT completely cured" I also see this, it's very.. yikes! It's very bad for you, the IPA with resin I believe is worse then just resin. "I notice my IPA last more than twice as long if I take the supports off before cleaning" This is very true, and I used to do this. I stopped as the first wash really does not matter how dirty it gets. But mostely becasue I want to remove the supports hot so they don't scratch the model. Heating a part covered in resin is not good. Since this video I've upgraded to larger buckets and I let my first wash get very very very dirty. I then have a 2nd and 3rd wash. The print at the end is extreamly clean. This is the print I pulled out last night. My fist wash at this point is 6 months old, black with out 2-3" of buildup. imgur.com/gallery/WMlXn4z Finally I'm working on a bucket 3.0 filled with recovered IPA. I'll be posting a video on it soon.

[@tomyocom5886]

@@J3DTech Left out that you are my Hero crush. I have been reading your guide and watching your videos. Really trying to get the supports understood and be great at them. My prints have improved immensely already. Over did the mini lights on a print today and keep finding them in indiscreet areas on a flaming horse with rider. A print I would not have attempted without your knowledge . I can see what I Have to do when supporting a print, but not what to use and what I do NOT have to support. Also I would like to look at a print and Understand what I am doing and SEE the print and what IT wants to make me happy...OH and a little more speed wouldn't hurt me for putting on supports. Keep up the beyond incredible work it is hard to believe what YOU achieve with these Models!! When I try to explain to people well that is a Digital Model it does not exist in this plane yet, bringing these things to Life, ACCURATELY is quite a thing and TREAT. thanks again..J. I have a D2

[@J3DTech]

@@tomyocom5886 Thank you! These are all topics that at first feel complex but as soon as you have that ah ha! moment. They all fall into place. The way I learned how to look at a print and say with pretty good confidence if it will print or fail is my own failures. I always saved my scenes. I would always compare what I printed vs how I did the support. Once I stopped having any failures, I then focused on quality. After a short while I felt I had this down. Finally I focused on tip sizes under dimensional accuracy. This let me have a constant so I was not always adjusting exposure settings, only focusing on what tip sizes worked on different models. This got me to where I am today. The D2 can be a little tricky. It's very accurate. So you're really going to calibrate it to where your supports are holding well, but come off easily. If they are very crispy you may be over exposed. I'm working on a new calibration part for DLP printers. Now that Elegoo has one out I feel the demand for such a part will be needed.

[@tomyocom5886]

@@J3DTech Well that DLP Calibration part is needed by me......Haha. I look forward to seeing and testing with that part. D2 very accurate and am dialing in bed adhesion and noticing the supports coming off nicely after going a little bigger on tips than tableflip. They were a little small for a noob like me.. I have much more exp with FDM but miniatures require the resin.....though I never stopped pushing for great prints with fdm, Keep up the Great!

[@J3DTech]

@@tomyocom5886 TableFlip uses tips sizes that are maybe ok for minis, but for sure to small for me to get to work as well. I did really try to use them but I would only get falures. I went back to my 0.3, 0.4 as my light and medium.

[@ceyceycey21]

Heatgun method looks really neat, supports almost came off by themselves. But I heard the fumes are especially bad when when resin is exposed to heat. Aren't you worried about that?

[@J3DTech]

I have the appropriate mask and filters when doing this and in a well-ventilated room so nope.

[@rossfranks2718]

@@J3DTech I would be very interested to know what mask and filters you recommend

[@J3DTech]

@@rossfranks2718 At the bottom of my guide I have links to the mask and filters I use.

[@rossfranks2718]

@@J3DTech Ah yes sorry totally missed that! Thanks!

[@henrykhenrykowski2736]

i dont understand why do you heat your resin prints, they come out heated after print.

[@J3DTech]

@@henrykhenrykowski2736 after cleaning, they're quite cold. They're going to be the temperature of the IPA. Adding a little bit of heat with the heat gun is like where you just will put them in warm water to make the supports practically fall off. The issue with using water is now you've introduced water into your resin and you can't cure it until it's completely dry. Water takes a long time to evaporate, especially if you live in an area with high humidity. So instead I use a heat gun. Not a very powerful one. This makes it so the supports practically fall off and don't scratch the model while they're coming off.

[@kelsipenewit5825]

What setting do you have the heat gun at?

[@J3DTech]

II: 300°C (572°F). That may seem hot but but unldess you hold your hand under it for a while, it just feel warm. I picked this heat becasue overall it ran a bit cooler on the 2nd setting then most others.