How to cut Braces into a Frame Ledge and Braced Door Bracing

How to cut Braces into a Frame Ledge and Braced Door Bracing
A short video explaining how I go about accurately cutting the braces into a already boarded door. The process is made a lot easier if you can mark the cuts from the back off the square edges of the door, but is achievable in this manner through accurate marking out. If you have more than one door to do that are the same, setting the saw up is invaluable to save time.
A quick mention about the Trend Angle Rule, it's on offer at the minute and is a very accurate tool. Here is a link to the one I use - amzn.to/2BTfbVQ
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#Joinery #Woodworking

[@BradshawJoinery]

If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery

[@myname4598]

I've watched more than a few videos trying to strengthen my shop doors, yours was the first to tell me what i was actually looking for with brace direction, angles, and the reasons for each. Thank you very much.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Awesome to hear, thankyou for commenting! Detailed videos go against the grain a little on youtube, i guess they arent WOW videos that will get a lot of views. Im pleased they are useful though!

[@boldford]

@@BradshawJoinery Simple as ABC Always Brace in Compression.

[@DerrekWayne]

@@boldford Except with a garden gate with a strap hinge? I was confused by that.

[@BradshawJoinery]

You can brace in tension, steel strap face fixed will work. With large steel doors, bracing in tension is better as you can use leightweight steel. A compression brack will require rigidity and structure whereas a wire rope can brace in tension.

[@boldford]

@@BradshawJoinery Since we are talking primarily about joinery rather than fabrication I think it's fair that the ABC rule holds. That said, I totally agree a diagonal in tension could even be a light-weight steel wire.

[@chrisbailey600]

Excellent video; so well explained. Thank you.

[@kerrythompson9506]

Awesome work! It's nice to find someone who knows the difference between a compression brace and a tension brace, and knows which way to run them.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Kerry. Its a real shame when someone makes a nice set of gates and the braces are the wrong way

[@2logj]

amazing and clear instructions.thanks. can please do a separate video on using the jigs for finding angles and marking gauge

[@dougmarshall5324]

Mate you have no idea your timing in this video I've made the door and tomorrow I fit the braces, was scratching my head how to make it accurate ... centre line I could never has guessed.... still can't believe your timing of this video popping up. Cheers.

[@lynnej9510]

Great teacher

[@MrOmegaWill]

I’m about to finish off a door a relative asked me to make for them. The braces have always been my nemesis, so I’ll give this method a try. Sadly I don’t have a radial arm saw but hopefully I can get away with it all being done on the mitre. Thank you for this, I will report back with how it went !

[@BradshawJoinery]

centre line and bevels should help alot!

[@timeisstandingstillforme]

Thank you so much for posting this! Beautiful work and a great explanation!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thank you Kristin

[@gazzyd4102]

Thanks for this. My head is swimming a bit with all the info but I imagine with practice and actually trying this it will become clear. Thanks 😀

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cool! Yeah, alot of info but hopefully all relevant

[@gazzyd4102]

@@BradshawJoinery very much so, have a good day

[@lizzapaolia959]

Amazing craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The door locks outstanding. God bless 🙏

[@61spindrift]

Thanks again for video. Just finished making cross braces for 4 doors in my shed to replicate the old fashion "hay doors" of the past. They came out great, followed your directions exactly.

[@BradshawJoinery]

That is so good to hear! the main purpose of the videos is to help others with similar tasks! Chuffed! :)

[@Octocoupler]

Nice bit of information at the beginning about the metal brace, I knew about the wooded brace, I'm making an aluminium side gate so thanks.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes thin brace in tension, thick in compression

[@phillipglynn7509]

Great video, has answered all my questions on my sagging gate. I can stop googling the problem and get it done now.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Phillip, hope the gate is sorted now. ou can prop it up to just higher than it wants to be and then cut brace in, and itll settle down nicely onto the brace!

[@artjoiner3100]

Good job .Nice to see someone is willing to take time to do a small job properly.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou! Yes every step of the way done properly (or try to atleast)

[@tatonfamily9287]

This is hands down the very best video explanation of this type of cut/brace. And trust me I have searched long and hard for a video like this for a while. Thank you for adding this content. I'm not sure if you have this out there, but if you can make a video with a half lap cross brace in a door like this, or for legs on a table where you do half lap joints on "X" bracing legs that would make my day brother. Thanks again!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Josh thanks for the amazing Praise!!! Ill add it to my list, and if i get any jobs similar then i will film it!! Thanks again

[@stevesamoffgridsmallholdin5378]

Great designed door the quality looks fabulous 👍

[@bobbyt3358]

Your one heck of a carpenter. Sweet job you done.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Bobby

[@lukemsilver]

Angles are the hardest part for me and getting the right cut.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Maybe try mitring a scrap piece so it lines corner to corner then youve found your angle.. :)

[@tonyalways7174]

Beautiful joinery, thanks for sharing

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Tony. Keep and eye out for more!

[@SweSuf]

Excellent presentation! I might have to refurbish the garden shed doors I made half a year ago with similar braces.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks a lot

[@BestUserNameUK]

Them gates you showed are beautiful. Nice work👍🏼

[@BradshawJoinery]

🙌 thankyou

[@61spindrift]

exactly what I was looking for as I attempt to make cross braces into my upper doors of my shed. I am trying to duplicate the old "hay loft" style doors of an old barn. Liked the video and impressed with your joinery skills. Thanks for posting this. Ok, out to the shed now as I am in the process of making these. Just took a break to see how a professional would build it

[@BradshawJoinery]

Nice work! I have done a video on a FLB style door and will be posting it soon! Keep an eye out

[@chrisw7402]

Such a beautiful door 🚪

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Chris!

[@peace4peaceful]

That sorts me out. Great vid. I love those gates pictured too.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Nice one John, happy to help

[@resultcarpentry5869]

Great insight - many thanks 👌🏼😁

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Gary!

[@neilw4881]

Excellent as always👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers again Neil! :D

[@marklawlor5268]

Great job, very precise way of doing it...

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Mark!

[@johneley5680]

Exerlant love the way you explain everything Love ya work 👍 learn a lot

[@BradshawJoinery]

CHeers John! :)

[@brendanfitzpatrick7399]

great video, learned 2 really useful tips from it

[@BradshawJoinery]

Awesome to hear Brendan, thanks!

[@jamescampbell7780]

Essential viewing!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou!!! :)

[@franslabberton9683]

Great instruction! Very much enjoyed it!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Frans!

[@neilw4881]

Another cracking demonstration and presentation. I do hope some of our friends across the pond start to tune into your channel. So much more info than the samurai and his friends. If you ever get chance to film the joinery of a double or multiple door frame ie double doors with a fixed glass frame each side, or similar that would be fantastic! Just made my first full pane door following your video and it’s worked out pretty good. I found the multi lock system with no instructions a bit of a head scratcher though!! 👍Cheers Neil

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI Neil, thats great thankyou!! Awesome to hear you have had success following my video!! Did you work the lock out?

[@neilw4881]

I did thanks. 👍 Really enjoying all your videos, they are so helpful. I hope we can get your subscribers to sky rocket too, you deserve it👍 Cheers 🍻

[@handyandy8671]

great job!!!!!! Thanks

[@jamesdunn82]

Great video. Thanks.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks James. Glad you liked it!

[@billlander6431]

When cutting on a chop saw or radial arm saw, if the wood to be held is on the right side of the blade use your right hand to hold the piece and your left to move the saw through the cut. The way you showed in your video is very dangerous, especially when cutting a wide piece and the blade binds, the saw tends to lurch forward. Never ever cross your hands/arms when making a cut. I have been doing wood work for over 45 years and this is one of the very first safety lessons I got from my shop teacher.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah fair enough, I wouldnt do it with any other saw but the wadkin cc is very very safe. No excuse, and like i say i dont do it with other saws.

[@stefanmagyar4042]

Excellent video

[@BradshawJoinery]

thanks Stefan

[@davidjennings9253]

Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou David!

[@marshallmurrell4583]

Just found your channel. New subscriber. Thank you so much for the explanation. I struggled for ages with such braces on a garden gate. Very informative and not as slow as some "pure" hand tool users, although they are good also.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Marshall, Thanks for the sub! Happy to have helped

[@jparson3309]

Great job and great job on the video quality

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou!

[@wellsyboi]

The carpenter that did our gates should have watched this.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha. I bet they are the wrong way around!

[@wellsyboi]

@@BradshawJoinery it is actually yes 😂

[@tonyburton8971]

Brilliant video - this was so clear and easy to follow. I was worried about getting these right but thanks to you managed fine! Couple of extra things I found helped. When drawing the centre line on the door, place a THIN piece of metal into the corner and push the straight edge up against that - a bit easier than judging with the eye. When measuring the distance between the corners - tricky to do on your own, I clamped a metal ruler across one corner, at right angles to the centre line and aligned with the corner, this then gave me something to hook the measure onto. When measuring the first angle, because the two pieces are at different heights it can affect the angle measurement. This is particularly a problem where you have a bevel, so I aligned and clamped a long spirit level along the inside edge of the door frame and measured the angle between this and the brace.

[@BradshawJoinery]

nice one Tony, pleased to hear the video helped. did you have a already boarded door to add a brace into? They are easier to mark if the boards havent been inserted into the door yet.

[@tonyburton8971]

No I got the diagonals in before boarding - meant I could work from the front so I was marking on the side I was working from which as you say makes things a lot easier :) The wood's untreated and they're going outdoors, so I plan to sand, treat and paint the frame before adding the boards so I get the part up against the boards. Probably overkill, but I like to be thorough :)

[@BradshawJoinery]

Perfect. Best thing to do that is. Sealing the edges in boarding and a bevelmon rails so no water sits is the best thing to do for this type of door

[@clint-1725]

Nice work

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Clint

[@chazlennox9597]

Another great insight into professional work. If you ever do a stable door I'd love to see how you tackle it. I've just made one and it turned out fine, but I'd like to see the professional version!

[@BradshawJoinery]

I may well do in the future Ian. Thanks for watching

[@Improveng1]

Excellent explanation and demonstration, thank you. It's a thumbs-up and a sub from me.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Nice one Stan

[@KLIDIMARIA]

Very useful,and well detailed by you video.Thank you very much,for all your videos.Please,make making video of a Herringbone table.

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI Ianis, Thank-you for the kind words! Im not sure ill be making one anytime soon, but i will bear it in mind if i do!! Suggestions are always great.

[@KLIDIMARIA]

@@BradshawJoinery The Carpenters,says,that the Herrinbone tables are for...exercise 😂 🤣😂 🤣😂 🤣😂 🤣

[@EarthRoomUK]

I greatly enjoy watching your videos and I am learning so much from them. I am taking the step from carpentry to joinery and furniture making so your videos are priceless to me. I was however wondering if you could, when you get a free moment, to post a video on muntins and the joinery involved in producing and installing into a door or window frame. If you don't have the time, perhaps just a few pointers would be very useful. With thanks in advance and thank you once again for taking the time to produce such useful and detailed videos.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks James, muntin is a vertical section in a door, the same component within a window frame is a mullion. They are machined the same as outside timbers. I fitted muntins in the oak cupboard door video maybe have a look at that and ask any questions from there

[@EarthRoomUK]

@@BradshawJoinery thank you for your reply,greatly appreciated. On another note, I am in the process of buying a second hand spindle moulder, could you suggest an set of cutters that you would consider to be absolutely essential to begin with when first starting out with this machine. I. E. Cutters which would get through most tasks. But strapped for cash so only really want to purchase the essentials to start off. James

[@BradshawJoinery]

Definitely need a rebate cutter and a variable angle cutter if you don't have a tilting moulder. You can get the above in a hss profile so if really short buy one of them. The CMT sets are decent!

[@t-rex4211]

Great video! I centre line the brace then place on the frame then mark it, mainly for gates before TnG but gets them nice and tight at speed. I know you can’t do that there with the panelling and rails. Good to see it done this way 👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah its a dead easy operation in a non boarded door! I glue the braces in now when i glue the door together, with a domino into the rail and stile so its proper solid!

[@t-rex4211]

@@BradshawJoinery Ah good call. Sounds like a job for an octopus 🐙😉

[@BradshawJoinery]

It's a job for road runner when your using PU glue 🤣🤣

[@t-rex4211]

@@BradshawJoinery 😂👍

[@toria-j]

OH. Not heard about the 45 degree rule before - no wonder one of the garden gates I built is sagging. Will have to redesign the new one I'm doing.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes, try and stay above it but 45 is minimum!

[@alexyoung3387]

What is a stop chamfer? Thank you for posting this, it's very helpful!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Its a term for a 45 degree chamfer on a corner/edge that doesnt run all the way along. so if done with a router you start 50mm from the end of the brace then stop 50mm before the other end. just decoration, very traditional.

[@johnpeplow3985]

Just like it grew there perfection.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers John

[@scottbmunro]

Fantastic! Thank you so much for this instructional video. I’ve followed it to make one door brace already, substituting the protector for my eye in a couple of instances. However, I want to do it again more accurately now that I have one. How did you transfer the angle at 15:50? I don’t believe you explained that. Thanks again.

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI, the bevel is a digital one, so i just used the display to reference from the other face of the bevel. if you use a normal sliding bevel you wont need to alter as you can work from both sides!

[@horserider9578]

Absolutely loved watching this i,m a total amateur but love wood work, can you tell me when you glue and dont glue i was told years ago if you glue the wood it can't move properly and it will twist exactly want happened when i made some cabinet doors thanks.

[@BradshawJoinery]

thanks, on cabinet doors you want to glue the perimeter frame and allow the panel to slide int he groove. Basically wood moves across its grain and not along its grain. so a wid panel will need to move within the rail of the door.

[@FlameGrilledPatty]

What if you dont have the vertical borders and are working with a simple fence panel with 3 horizontal 2x4s.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Check out the gate videos i have done. one of them shows a brace entering the middle rail, it needs notching in the rail to stop it slipping.

[@MarcusT86]

Amazing video buddy. I have a couple of questions if I may: Do you have a video on that notched brace you did for the garden gate? And I’ve seen people just scribe the marks for the cuts when resting the centre of the bracing against the centre of the corners before, with no using bevels and working out angles. Is there a reason that is no good for this level of joinery? Obviously garden gates are more crude than internal door joinery.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah you cannot scribe a door if the boarding is fixed in place! I think there is another gate video with the brace notch show but don't know if any more detailed!

[@herbieherbert9964]

How do I secure tongue and grove into my oak gate? I know I don't glue it? Many thanks Herbie

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Herbie. The edge boards can slot into a groove as per one of my recent videos, (boarding like a pro) and the centre boards can be nailed, screwed or pinned. There are several techniques for all depending on what application is. I would either go with screws and plugs from the back of the rail screeing into the boards, or use 50mm stainless Brad nails, in a square at each intersection through the board faces.

[@jamesburt9228]

I've read and heard on various videos that more than 45° is not recommended. What is an acceptable tolerance under 45°? I'm about to build a side gate that is 200(h) x 131(w) and was planning on a centre ledge as well. I think this would reduce the brace angle to below 45°. Love watching these videos; so inspiring.

[@BradshawJoinery]

In this type of door you need to choose a style.of bracing. Either from the hinge side bottom of each rail at 45 degrees and notched into the middle and top rails, or you go from the bottom of door hinge side to the top rail latch side, notching through the middle rail. So there is a line from top corner to bottom opposite corner and cut into the middle rail. Check here for example instagram.com/p/BgqP1VGF5jD/?

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Why do you use the mitresaw in conjunction with the radial arm saw? What I mean is how does that method result in the most accurate cut?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Simply because the mitre saw is easily set to an angle and can be bevelled easier. Once set the radial saw can be used for the square cuts alongside it. The radial saw is more accurate!

[@aidanobrien6704]

How’s things, how would you go about doing these with a rectangular frame instead of a square one. Working on some large gates some head ache

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Aidan, send me a picture on instagram or facebook and ill help

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Thank you for the informative film. I'm building a new fence gate. Please, could you tell, that diagonal brace, does it go from the hinged corner up, or from the hinged corner down? In our old gate the diagonal goes from the hinged corner upward to unhinged corner, so it hits bottom hinged. Does it matter at all? I see in some films it is one way, in other opposite, it hits the top hinged corner.

[@BradshawJoinery]

In a timber door the brace needs to be in compression to work effectively. So the hinge end is the bottom and the latch side at too of brace so the weight from that side of the door is supported by the brace. Done the other way is wrong and simply adding weight to the door. Braces are max angle of 45 degrees also.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@@BradshawJoinery Thank you, it explains my question. If I may ask you about that diagonal piece: is it better to keep it like one piece, going from top to bottom, so it will cut the central parallel brace (in most cases it will be 3 parallel for the whole gate door) or to cut that diagonal in 2 parts and keep the central parallel in one piece? It is done so in our original gate, but I saw several films, where the central parallel is cut. Not sure which design is better. Thank you also for that 45 degree rule (with vertical I understand).

[@BradshawJoinery]

Keep the horizontal parts solid. The braces are most effective if notched into these so they cannot slip. Do not cut the rails through as that is what holds the boards together

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@@BradshawJoinery Thank you, so the design of our gates is good, I just need to make a new version of it. I might just add 2 vertical rails, so Z - base would be kind of included in a rectangle.

[@TheJonkilleen]

Great video. One question though, is it traditional to put the moulding in place before you cut and install the brace?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Jon, i'm not sure i fully understand! By moulding do you mean the boards/panneling? If so, no, i would normally cut the braces in before gluing up, and then they become part of the door.

[@jdavis85]

Any advice for cutting or measuring the notch on the gates that are not square, shown at the beginning? I have a similar situation, wondering if there are particular angles you used.

[@BradshawJoinery]

I usually draw them out on sketchup and do what looks correct working fro 45 degrees as a starting point. I have a jig for the notch, as long as the notch isnt too shallow it will hold. id work on atleast 30 degrees from the rail itself for the part that the brace end engages into then however deep looks right back to the thickness of the brace where it meets the rail on the other side. be careful on bevelled rails as these will need chopping in inline with the brace. (its a tricky joint)

[@bial12345]

Hey I am planning on doing something like this for a project. This seems a bit over-engineered.. is there a reason you can't just: Measure corner to corner (point to point on the finished brace), cut that length, then take 2 45 degree cuts off each end at that length? Seems like it would take 1/10th the time and be fine as long as your corners are square.

[@BradshawJoinery]

That works for a perfectly square door but you need to find the mitre angles otherwise. This is a quick method once you know what your doing, I'm just waffling on a bit 🤣👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

That works for a perfectly square door but you need to find the mitre angles otherwise. This is a quick method once you know what your doing, I'm just waffling on a bit 🤣👍

[@charlessharpe1345]

Do you .wear gloves all the time or is it when you are using Accoya becauseI have noticed the black marks on the brace and on the gates you showed in the video

[@BradshawJoinery]

The stain looking marks are from the treatment process of Accoya. But i loke wearing gloves, the grip helps stop your hands from aching after a day of trying to grip smooth timbers. Not good health and safety around machines but i am cautious

[@charlessharpe1345]

Thank you for your reply stay safe.

[@Johnny0005]

Great explanation of why to put them on certain angles.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Johnny

[@Robe999]

I wish i had watched This six months ago , It took me 7 Tries to get my Brace right , I kept cutting right on the line and forgot about the Thickness of the blade , that took me 4 times to realise what i was doing wrong , The next was I was getting my angle set at say 46 degrees ( but unlike you ) I set the the cut at 46 instead of taking it away from 90 ????????? ha ha ha ha hey its the fun and frustrating part of learning and Costly , I think my Bracing cost more than the Door ha ha ha ha

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha, its very easy done to be fair. When the maths and numbers get involved i try to keep an eye on the basics and if it "looks" right after all that working out haha

[@mange2]

Will a brace work if screwed onto the face of a gate, rather than inside the frame?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes aslong as there is triangulation of some kind! If solely relying on screws is doesn't make much odds which way around it is fitted... But try to install the lower side to hinge 👍

[@mange2]

@@BradshawJoinery thank you 👍

[@JFaithfull]

Hi - great video. Would you recommend screwing the braces in place, or just glue to hold them (adding braces to an existing gate - Knocking it back in to square first! ;-) )

[@BradshawJoinery]

As long as the perimeter frame is sound, the brace will work just lodged in place. Screws through into rails and Stiles will help solid up if the joints aren't great, I'd always glue it in

[@JFaithfull]

@@BradshawJoinery many thanks! 👍😎

[@rickallen9167]

I'm not sure of the practical application of fitting a brace last on a gate/door as it is part of the framework and therefore would be easier surely to fit it first, complete the frame and then board it? Are their applications when fitting the brace last is better then, meaning that I am wrong? I'm not sure.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hey Rick, absolutely, they want installing and jointing to the door at glue up. Installing them after when boarded is probably how they will turn up from a shop and hence the video to help fit it accurately

[@rickallen9167]

@@BradshawJoinery hey there..just to clarify your answer because it does seem conflicting. Your first paragraph confirms that the way to go is frame and brace. Your video isnt titled "how to ledge and brace the woodworking shop way", so on what basis exactly do you determine the brace is fitted last in the shop other than probably? I was trained as a sawyer in the 80's, and was moved over to the shop to assist with producing garden gates, fence panels and trellis panels etc. The brace was always fitted at the framing stage to enable scribing to fit which was considered the quickest and most effective way! There is of course, "more than one way to skin a cat"... I'm just not sure your way is the way to go, particularly if it means aquiring tools you don't happen to have..against doing the job with tools that you do have..

[@stonecoldjaneausten926]

Been looking for one of those mini squares forever. Anyone know where I can pick one up?

[@feyrband]

Engineer or machinist square. Should pop plenty of hits non amazon or local box store

[@nosaltiesandrooshere7488]

👍

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks

[@user-du1eh2nf4z]

ممتاز يا بطل

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks

[@pgtips4240]

There are literally no videos at all on youtube of anyone making the glazing bar part of a door. There are one or two videos demonstrating cope and stick router bits but this requires a router table. I would live to see some different methods of doing this, especially for a woodworker with more modest tools.

[@BradshawJoinery]

which part do you wish to know about? the moulding of the small component of the joint?

[@pgtips4240]

@@BradshawJoinery Just how it's all put together, ie the correct way of doing it.

[@cyberblade6669]

how to you thickness plane ceder fencing

[@BradshawJoinery]

What style of fencing do you require?

[@azimkhan3324]

Wonderful job very good.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thank you very much!

[@johnchincotta1qwdb15]

These braces obviously provide support and rigidity to the door in question

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes they stop the opening side og the door from dropping

[@llCarpentry_Joinery]

what about if the square is taller than the width of the square is that going to be a problem

[@BradshawJoinery]

If it's taller then I'd deffo keep the centre of brace in the corners.. it'll be stronger that way

[@llCarpentry_Joinery]

@@BradshawJoinery so how would I keep it 45 degrees as I like it’s definitely not square it’s more like a rectangle so I assume I have to house it in as corner to corner to my opening is 48 degrees

[@BradshawJoinery]

I personally wouldn't. It'll look incorrect. The 45 degree rule is if it's wider than it is tall.. the brace becomes ineffective after the angle is lower. You can keep it 45 degrees, just have a longer cut on the vertical section and the centre of the brace will fall above and below the corners bottom and top respectively

[@royhawkins9711]

What was the wood you used

[@BradshawJoinery]

It was Accoya. Which is Radiata pine

[@66oggy]

There is no way that door will drop witout a brace. Personally I think a standard width door does not need a diagonal brace, and it spoils the look, and I only add them when I make wider doors if I think I need to. If a door is loose enough to drop, it's about knackered anyway.

[@BradshawJoinery]

No worries Neil, i think the braces add to the look of the door. i feel that it also brings a lot to the strength of the door, even tight joints, weighed down by boarding will settle and the brace helps stop that along with another point to fix the boarding too. The beauty of the job is we can all do things in diffferent ways and achieve a solution.

[@stonecoldjaneausten926]

What's the saw he's using at 11 mins 30?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Type it In the Style 11:30 and everyone can click straight to it

[@BradshawJoinery]

Its a Wadkin CC I did a video on it

[@jimbow2310]

Do you nail or screw the braces on?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I usually use a MS Polymer sealant\adhesive on the cuts\back of the brace then use stainless Brad's into the brace from the front of the door.

[@popcornlover948]

Beautiful work but how would you ever make money taking that long?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Its a quick process tbh, couple of minutes and your done, obviouslyu take a while to explain and give all the details. Most people will pay for quality aswell

[@kendexter]

Naa.. i think you have done that once or twice before , not your first bevel i assume :)

[@stevenopolis3155]

What if you are trying to do this in an uneven driveway, and you only have a couple of sawhorses and a circular saw? Lol I just broke a 2x4 in a tantrum.

[@BradshawJoinery]

One saw horse and a handsaw would probably be better than a circular saw for cutting accurate to your lines

[@stevenopolis3155]

@@BradshawJoinery awesome. I’ll try that out. Thanks for the speedy reply.

[@offdagrid877]

I can understand what and why your doing this but the braces should have been fitted from the start before the door was boarded

[@BradshawJoinery]

I do for my gates and doors normally. Check some of the gate build videos i notch them into the rails

[@adamosantonio1499]

Zwykle robie to przed tgv

[@paulnutter1713]

If the doors made properly with m+t joints or even just substantial dowels it shouldn't really need bracing. I only brace doors I make from scratch out of floorboard or match board.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hey Paul, initially, yes a door will support itself without a brace, but it's over a period of time it will need the support. Through seasonal movement in all the timber, along with use, (constant opening/shutting) the joints will become stresses. Braces will stop the door from dropping. Look at any only panel door (no bracing) they all have joints that are now loose and have dropped to the point where they are wedged on the square of the panels/as far as the joints will allow it to "sag" Proper joinery isn't built for the short term, these doors etc are built to stand the test of time...long after the glue has cracked the locked joints and positive bracing will hold the door together 👍

[@lengthmuldoon]

Surgeons aren't as accurate as this

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha!!!

[@markwhitwham58]

Why 72 dislikes... don’t understand

[@BradshawJoinery]

Not sure, only trying to help people

[@manlor13]

There's gotta be a simpler way....

[@BradshawJoinery]

This is very simple.. 👍 score a centre line down the back, find the angle up to 45. cut it, then 90 degree cut from centre and mark the other end. It's long winded explaining every little detail but in essence is very straightforward

[@manlor13]

@@BradshawJoinery I like that explanantion better. Thank you

[@kym393]

Luckily enough I was blessed with a laser eye

[@BradshawJoinery]

A Laser eye?

[@kym393]

@@BradshawJoinery The age old skill of Guestimation

[@rossmckenzie2283]

"good result"? I think you mean "excellent result".

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha cheers Ross!! :)

[@sketch3design309]

Too long video.. he talk too much more then what he is doing.. he need make fast motion video..

[@BradshawJoinery]

Sorry, i wish to educate and not entertain.

[@RobertELee-uc7em]

please speak English

[@BradshawJoinery]

LOL