How to Cut Perfect Foam Squares for Dungeon Tiles (Black Magic Craft Episode 059)

[@boldbeagle6678]

I made my first batch of tiles today. My first few were pretty rough, but Ive found making a 3x3 chipboard template got the best results

[@doomed2die595]

theres only two other channels i instantly hit the like button for, Ancient Architects, UnchartedX, and Black Magic Craft, you sir dont get anywhere near enough recognition that you deserve, all your videos are awesome to watch.

[@Bustermachine]

So I am currently doing my own take on BMC's terrain tiles (I don't have 1/2 inch foam so I'm glue sticking together pieces of craft foam board to get .55 inch thick tiles) One thing I'm going to advise other new crafters is to pay close attention to the sharpness of your crafting blade, it needs to be able to score the foam enough to make an easily followed guiding line with almost no pressure, since once it starts to dull you're going put more pressure on it and risk tearing rather than cutting the foam. These blades are meant to be regularly replaced so don't shy away from snapping a blade whenever it feels like it's getting a little dull. Also, resist the temptation to use one of your completed foam squares as a template. It'll be faster, but you risk both damaging a finished foam piece and I found it just compounded small errors as the foam just doesn't offer as much resistance as a perfectly straight metal rule. Finally, don't get discouraged. It's easy seeing these on camera to think that they are truly perfect, while you will see all of your own errors up close. That's fine. All modeling relies on knowing the sort of scrutiny it needs to hold up to. Get them broadly square, and if there's a little roughness around the edges, that's fine.

[@vladtheinhaler146]

I built my first set of tiles last night using all the techniques and information BMC offers... They're awesome!! Can't wait to bust them out at our next game night.

[@johnryan6422]

This. THIS IS WHY IM ON YOUR PATREON. I had issues today and im like, hmmmm let me type in how to square up foam and BAM! you have it covered.

[@MrEbenezer13]

Freaking awesome man!! I have to say that your channel has inspired me the most of many channels here! And my father has just surprised me with a Proxxon table! !! Life is awesome mate!! 😀

[@GiorgioCavaglieri-q3m]

How is life going?

[@GibsonOnAir]

I was taught as an apprentice carpenter to use the 3+4+5 method to make a perfect right angle, which will give a solid beginning to work from.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

As a carpenter myself (my career before youtube) I used Pythagorean’s 345 all the time. But it tends to be better suited for large layouts. Great for framing walls, harder to use accurately on a small scale.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

But it's a method I wish everyone knew!

[@stringstorm]

Back then, I used a foam wire cutter and took out its guts and made it into something like a Table Saw. I then made alot of templates which was the basis of my measurement. I could cut all the pieces I need to make a castle in less than half an hour.

[@AllanGoodall]

Let me add a "thank you"! I just started using the Proxxon I received as a gift, and I had the problem of my corners not being square and couldn't figure how to fix it. Awesome! If you're looking for video ideas, dealing with bigger pieces of foam (say in the 10" square range) would be useful.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

When I measure off my known straight edge, I make three measurements across the distance so that when IU lay a straight edge across the three points, I can see if I messed any of them up. If all three line up, they are either all correct, or all strangely colinear but not correct (which is MUCH more uncommon without prior planning).

[@Winterydee]

Also if you only have a measuring tape/straightedge ruler you can create a perfect square corner by using a 3x4x5 right angle triangle set of measurements. Here are the steps. 1) Measure and draw a 3 inch line(you could use cm or any other measurement unit scale you want) 2) Perpendicular to one of the end points of that 3 inch line measure out 4 inches using the end point of the 3 inch line as the starting point of the 4 inch line and make "carrot" or "arrow" with it's point being right at the 4 inch mark. 3) Now measure from that 4 inch "carrot"/"arrow point to the other end of the 3 inch line. If it is 5 inches exactly, then place your straightedge ruler back to the previous perpendicular placement and draw in the 4 inch line starting from the "carrot"/"arrow" point and stopping at the 3 inch line. NOW if that measurement was UNDER 5 inches, then the corner is acute, aka under 90°, and you need to pivot away from the 3 inch line and repeat step 2 again. OTHERWISE if that measurement was OVER 5 inches, then the corner is obtuse, aka over 90°, and you need to pivot towards the 3 inch line and repeat step 2 again. 3x4x5 right angle triangles is how construction works have been making true squares for foundation pours, squaring up framing of buildings as they are being framed for as long as I've done construction. Most of the time when you're framing, you don't carry a nice carpenter's square on your bags. Speed square, yes! But carpenter's squares tend to get bent too easily and once that happens, well that carpenter's square is just not accurate and hence kind of useless. Now when I'm doing cabinetry, I bring and use different tools like a nice carpenter's square. But different tools for different jobs as Jeremy well knows.

[@RBloom0566]

I shall try this, but still does little to help with the Proxxon.

[@Winterydee]

@RBloom0566 - Use this method to create a wooden, a plastic or a foam triangle template. Now you can use that 3×4×5 triangle template to square up your Proxon's cutting libe/wire. If you need steps on how to do that, I'd be more than happy to write them out.

[@ChristianAahauge]

Thanks man! I litterally just came home with my proxxon thermocut. Looking forward to making those straight cuts!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Nice, this should help.

[@Elderos5]

The basics are so important. If your first cut is off, everything is going to be off.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Exactly

[@markramsey2401]

And don't assume that the factory edge is square. That first 90 degree crosscut is very important.

[@Sterlin0]

incredible, there is always something that you can teach me. thanks a lot for this basic but very important lesson. (now i run to buy that metal carpenter bar.. it's so simply nice and useful !)

[@gk2011]

So I just got a proxxon thermocutter (I jumped head first into the hobby with too much amazon gift cards) and this video helped me so much!

[@knightnomore]

Thank you Jeremy This was the problem i was having Now i can get going!!! Love you channel

[@Witchat1and70]

I cannot tell you how rubbish I am at straight lines, so this has a HUGE thumbs up from me. Thanks heaps.

[@dante7665]

nice, i just print a grid and paste it in the foam, then just cut both the paper and foam or make some perforations to mark the foam

[@leroylevi7432]

dunno if anyone gives a shit but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of weeks :)

[@ottolouis7653]

@Leroy Levi yea, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself =)

[@tommyd2235]

Awesome. I wish you released this two weeks ago. I've got a bunch of scrap trying to mill down a square correctly.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Better late than never

[@aaronbono4688]

I kick myself for not thinking of how to use the Proxxon to do the 90 degree cuts myself. I just finished a huge project where I used wood squares on both sides of a block of foam to get the cuts right and not only was it more difficult but the cuts were not as nice and I broke the wire a few times (too much pressure). I will do it THIS way next time!

[@Rocketsong]

I wonder how badly I would tear up this type of foam if I just took it out the the garage and used my table saw.

[@Witchlord]

pretty badly. Maybe the 2 inch or larger foam would work, but shit this thin would be mauled

[@danta7777]

@@Witchlord they make table saw blades for insulation foam board specifically but it will still burn and discolor around the cut

[@danielkrause8464]

Very good video! But be careful when using the Proxxon's grid. I heard of cases in which it was not 100% accurate.

[@JTofthedead]

Great technique, also killer Goblin shirt

[@arrowofdeath999]

I realy love your crafts dude! Thanks for all the amazing videos!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Cheers

[@peterfastenau9837]

Just picked up a proxxon, and I thought to myself, "I could swear Jeremy had a vid about making perfect squares..."

[@lisaboudreau5390]

Question. Do you not need a mask when using the proxxon? I don't see any smoke when you cut. When I use my hand held I have so much smoke I have to use it in the garage. I just bought a proxxon through your affiliate link yesterday. So excited.

[@beautysyx]

This is extremely useful! Thank you!!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Sometimes its the fundamental stuff that people have the hardest time with.

[@judkossum]

Man, I can never seem to get a straight cut - especially on that 90° cut. I feel like the fence is too wobbly. What’s your trick for using that fence?

[@euansmith3699]

As every someone posts a really, really, really, really basic video, and I think, "Fascinating! And useful!" Thank you

[@lessouterrainsoublies9179]

Didn't find street tiles with squares for Resident Evil 2 kickstarter which is ending in 2 days. So gonna use your tuto to make my owns. Thanx as always from France.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Cheers

[@michaeltudda2988]

do you have an tips for painting, pre-made plastic - bridges, house, etc? These videos rock big time thank you.

[@DonNoll]

Love you channel. I want to do 1.10 inches per square, so I am thinking just to make a jig that is true as possible and use that as a guide

[@adamcunningham3763]

Love the Goblin shirt. \m/

[@petertowers5019]

4 squares... yeah proxxon is boss. getting mine soon... so cannot wait.

[@thefooly]

Carpentry for the win

[@montyantonio1270]

I want to know how to do a cross section cut on the thickness. Like making a 1inch thick to a 1/2inch thick xps foam WITHOUT USING A HOT WIRE CUTTING TABLE.

[@vladtheinhaler146]

Good luck

[@altharrion]

With a large kitchen knife and a bit of swearing?

[@DaveBowlin]

Very helpful video! Thank you.

[@nykolostark]

Just a curious question: have you ever burned yourself on the hot wire?

[@tommyd2235]

Everyone should at least once. But if you have it hot enough to do some damage, it's probably too hot.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Burned? no. Touched a hot wire? Many times. Usually the wire isn't hot enough to even feel. Once in a while if it's up to high and you touch it it can hurt for a second. If I remember correctly I actually did that in this video.

[@volatilesky]

Yes, stings like hell for making such a thin burn. Wouldn't suggest trying it.

[@mrfrupo]

@8:00 is genius

[@environmentalchemist1812]

You're literally cutting on a mat marked in precise 1" squares. Just generate a straight edge, then line it up on the mat lines and use the mat lines to align your ruler for the right-angle cut. Much easier (and - because you can sight along a longer distance when lining up cuts) more precise than using a builders square.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Lol, good luck with that.

[@environmentalchemist1812]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial I'm a little surprised at the lol. I've tried several methods over the years and the square grid on the cutting mat is the most accurate way I've found. I just finished cutting out around 150 3-inch foam-board squares with a ruler and hobby knife. Checking the similarity of their two diagonal measurements (one of the best ways to assess accuracy when cutting a rectangle or square) shows them to be the same to better than 1/2 mm - that's sub-percent precision. Easily good enough for dungeon tiles. On larger squares, the precision would be even higher. Here's the thing: the precision with which you can line up a square cut depends in part on how far separated your points of right-angle reference are. On a large cutting mat like the one you own, you can line up tick marks on the mat that are at least 20" apart. Unless you have a builder's square that's of similar size, then it is hard to do better. The accuracy of using a builder's square depends on how precisely you can align one of the edges of the square with your material (which can be hard on a softer material like foam, and often one of the edges of the square is short - 4-5 inches at most). The accuracy of marking two measurements out from a straight edge can at best be no better than aligning tick marks that are visible on the mat beneath the piece you are cutting (potentially worse since you have to make sure you're measuring straight out from your flat edge when you make the tick marks). Then you have the thickness of whatever marker you're using, etc. Lining up points on the cutting mat has the added advantage that it is also a lot faster. No need to make marks, just line up the edge of your material along the horizontal lines on the mat, and set your ruler along the vertical marks on the mat. Cut, move your ruler, cut again, etc. Incidentally - while you're reading this - a tip for making robust less-slip-prone double-sided dungeon tiles. Use self-adhesive floor vinyl (an idea I got here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2PCqJV6p9R1Z9U). Stick the foam board to the sticky side of the vinyl, and then cut to size. This is easiest done by cutting through from the foam-board side until you score the vinyl underneath. Then bend the vinyl to snap most of the way through, bend it in half and - while folded over on itself - complete the cut with the hobby knife to get a nice clean edge. If you use vinyl with an appropriate pattern (e.g. stone or wood) then you can just draw on grid lines, or do something more fancy like they do here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipXdZWBsfNljoa8. On the foam side, peel the backing and carve/texture as desired. The result? Thin, durable, double-sided dungeon tiles with a pleasing weight and slip-resistance. I've done this with both 3mm and 5mm foam board.

[@environmentalchemist1812]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Oh - I should add - thank you for the inspiration your channel has provided! I'm getting my kids into tabletop terrain building!

[@melissaclaassen9707]

Because of the 1/2" thickness of the foam, and the fact it's nearly impossible to perfectly position your eye directly over your straightedge, in addition to the fact that your view angle changes along the length of the line, this won't work. You might get close, but you definitely won't hit perfect right angles. If you use a clear rotary cutter square guide, that makes drawing in the straight widths faster, and some people might find it a little easier to wield. I quilt, so I have a few of them laying around and they help with drawing in right angles.

[@DarkFire0421]

How can you even out the thickness of your foam so it lays flat ? I got a few wonky pieces and no proxon cutter ... maybe I should use a sander or something but even then I'd have to do it lightly and some how still evenly

[@carlmayne3519]

Any tips on the same subject when you only have hand held hot wire cutters available?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Use a knife

[@RangerGeek71]

Do not have a hot wire table here yet. I will get one once I get back to the states in January.

[@jbud006]

Stupid question that I doubt is going to even get a reply. But I have the Proxxon, use it for just about everything. But right now I am desperately needing 12"x"12 squares. Is there a simple way to make this happen? When I run the guide all the way to the left it falls out of the track before I reach 12". I know I could make a better guide out of MDF, but with this virus circulating I am trying to avoid going out and just work with what I have on hand. If someone could please help that would be amazing!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Sorry, there is no magic answer. I cut mine by hand. Or you can make a 12x12 square of mdf, place it under the foam, and use it as a guide. I've done this on a few of my projects in video where I glue the foam to the mdf permanently, but you could do the same method and not glue the mdf.

[@jenntimmcjunkin8889]

I did exactly what he said to do in this video and my 3x3 tiles still come out crooked? No matter what I do, they always come out crooked.

[@vladtheinhaler146]

Now that you have had some practice how are things going?

[@RBloom0566]

I must just suck then, because I can’t get a squared 3”x3”x1/2” piece of foam of my Proxxon to save my @ss. They’ve all got a slight diagonal tilt to them. I’ve even tried making sure my wire is true and to hold down the rip fence to avoid lean/wobble. I could do the hand cut method, but to produce the number of tiles I want would take forever without the Proxxon.

[@swashbuckle9856]

Thank you sir 😘

[@keimahane]

This is a serious question, Have you ever burnt your hand/finger on the wire? Is it hot when you get near it?

[@Sterlin0]

can someone tells me where i can buy that carpenter's precise square ? (2:02) i can't find it anywhere

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I sent you a link in response to the private message you sent me :)

[@Sterlin0]

thank you so much .. you're always available for help. you're such a great person.

[@mattl211]

What is that carpenter square?!

[@jaredlucev4481]

Found It! Thanks man!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Hope it helps. I haven’t watched it in years but I think it covers what you need.

[@jaredlucev4481]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial yeah, the idea of just flipping it a few times to even it out seems like it will be the fix.

[@madcat1007]

Why do you need to use a measuring square on the Proxxon? Don't they have measurements on them? If they don't then that is surely a big mistake on their part?

[@tecaedam2876]

I am about to start making my own dungeon tiles and these videos are very helpful. But how do I get such thin plates? At my local hardware store I can buy XPS plates with a thickness of at least 30mm. (Which is way too thick for me) How can I break them down into 10-15 mm pieces?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Cut them with a Hotwire table. That’s it’s main use, to thin material.

[@tecaedam2876]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial First, thanks for the quick answer. Well, then I have no choice, I guess. I already considered buying one but as they aren't cheap I thought I should wait a bit.

[@Witchlord]

Geometry is an amazing thing! looking back to highschool, it still amazes me how many people had trouble with proofs. I have always sucked at math, but proofs came easy to me. it all seemed logical.

[@Ink_Eyes_]

Yeah, I don't know, I can't seem to get ANY cut to be straight - it's all usually off no matter how much premeasuring and adjusting I do. I e tinkered with the hotwire, calibrated everything to perfect 90° as best I can and still it'll be off. I know practice makes perfect but practice isn't free.

[@ShadowDrakken]

Lot of things glossed over here... when marking your 3 inches up from your known true edge, how do you know that you're at a perfect right angle to that known true edge without using a square? If you're not at a perfect right angle, then you're not actually hitting the 3 inch mark, you'll be short a bit.All of these techniques rely on you having a known perfect right angle to begin with, and if you have that, why do you need a tutorial?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

A true right angle on hand is helpful but you can do without it. Pythagorean and a straight edge is all that’s actually needed.

[@danielsmithson174]

Can you use the heat wire for the poster board with 2 layers of paper on them?! Thanks!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yes, if you take the paper off.

[@fadetoblack1026]

I'm having a hell of a time cutting good squares with my Thermocut. No matter what I try, I can't get good straight cuts when crosscutting. And my corners never seem to come out true.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Follow these steps. Practice makes perfect. Keep at it.

[@jonathanj.1955]

Love your vids man! Question though : Why don't you just do your first cut (first straight line) with a blade and a ruler before switching to the hot wire cutter? Wouldn't that be quicker?

[@egorvyshegor737]

It would be quicker if you have a thin piece. If you are working with 2"+ foam, it would be much more difficult to get a nice blade cut.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Either way you have to cut your first cut off if you want it perfect.

[@jonathanj.1955]

Yeah I get it. First cut is needed. I was just thinking about optimizing the method: first cut with a blade and then switching to the hot wire cutter seemed quicker to me. @Egor Bezruchenko : You're right! Hadn't thought about that. Thanks for your reply

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Jonathan J. You’re not realizing what I said.....your first cut gets cut again no matter hat, the first cut does not remain on the final piece.

[@jonathanj.1955]

Black Magic Craft : Ah ok! I get it, thanks

[@nordh1980]

I'm always worried you're going to burn your hand the way you're pushing the foam through the Proxxon. Have you ever burned yourself?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

You’d have to be incredibly stupid (like totally brain dead) or trying really hard to intentionally burn yourself in order to get a real burn on that wire. You can quickly touch the wire. You’d have to hold it there for several seconds to cause a minor burn.

[@knoxminis1211]

How do you take a large sheet of XPS and get it down to workable pieces without messing it up? Just wondering you process when you first have that big sheet.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Ofla knife, metal straight edge, and a few careful cuts.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

But actually I often just freehand cut it down. It doesn't matter since I end up cutting off the knife cuts on the proxxon later anyway.

[@BoardGameHero]

I hate when the ruler moves when I begin the cut

[@shaneflickinger]

Now the question is how did you cut that circular plug that is laying on the table behind you?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Find out next Friday. That's why it's there!

[@nocultist7050]

how to split foam. I need it less thick without hotwire...

[@leokimbrough8654]

does anyone know what table he uses?

[@user-tc4eq7cf6o]

How do you make it less thick

[@snaebjornah]

anyone here that can help me with a problem about this, even if i follow all these instructions i still get non square tiles because my proxxon cuts more material (about 1-2 mm, not much but you see the difference when u put 4 tiles together) on the first 5-10 mm then the rest of the cut leaving them not fully square. any advise to fix or go around this? (it looks like while nothing is cut its really hot and cuts more but after the initial cut it has lower heat while cutting the rest of the way)

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Turn down the heat.

[@TaberIV]

This would be so helpful if I could manage to cut a straight line

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Practice

[@TaberIV]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial thanks haha, I'm working on it

[@MrEbenezer13]

Fuck man, I love ur vids SO much!!! PLEASE, can you make MORE!!!!!!??? :-(

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I make a video every single week. That's a lot. It takes a full saturday every single week....I have a full time career and a family. I'd love to make more but there will never be more than once a week unless this is channel gets to a point where I can quit my job and do it full time.

[@harrizonfjord7874]

i ripped through 60 3x3x.5 inch tiles only to find out I made slight rhombi tiles. i should have watched this video first.

[@seamus6387]

Man this makes me feel lazy, I cheat and use a plastic speed square lol. True, I don't trust the marks in the cheap sucker but it's faster lol

[@Hogfather_OW]

If it works, it ain't cheatin'!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Im not sure how a square being plastic makes it faster

[@seamus6387]

The speed square I have has a lip, easier to register the edge and well, I was just being silly.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yea, I know what a speed square is.....remember I'm a carpenter. I just wasn't sure what plastic had to do with it. I don't use a speed square for this simply because a small roofing square has more uses at craft table because it doesn't have that lip and I try to limit the tools taking up space at the desk.

[@brickboymomma7594]

Where do you get your thin foam?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

You can get 1/2” foam from here bmc.xps.supply/shop/

[@cherylnickey7386]

Wow 99 comments oh i made it 100

[@Drake_4]

Nope still doesn't work for me. I cant do it. Its impossible for me to do it

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

Whats the width of that piece ? 1 inch???

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

By width do you mean thickness? If so, it's irrelevant and I don't even know, it's whatever thickness I randomly made the piece to demo.

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

yes...the big piece before the 3by3 inch tiles...because i dont have proxxon table with the hot wire and i wonder if your walls for your cottages and houses are as thick as the piece you have at the second half of the video...if so...ok...its about an inch plus a little bit more...if your walls are less than one inch (about half inch = 1.5 centimeters) i have difficulty cutting it in the middle with the razor cutter all the way through ...any advice besides not doing that???? Thanks in advance your videos are an inspiration !!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I make buildings with all different thickness walls. Usually though I make them about a 1/4" thick. A proxxon is pretty much required to make buildings from insulation foam. If you do not have one you are better off working with foamcore that is already thinner.

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

thank you...i will try that...

[@thetechsupportguy3537]

Yeah listen, i like your videos as some are good for inspiration and such. BUT i recently purchased a proxxon and went to town on about 100€ worth of xps foam and at the same time viewed this video over and over. I came to the conclusion that it is not as helpful as it could be. I am not saying it´s bad or anything in that way but you are missing several points that i was trying to find answers to. For some reason i can´t get a straight cut as they are all 1 millimeter off (some are 2 but i sand them down gently) and i have no freaking idea how this happens. I have adjusted, cranked, changed the heat and set my proxxon in all different modes. Every. Single. Mode or setting. I have a really difficult times with 3x3 tiles and bigger but for some freaking reason i can make beams, planks and even strings as thin as 2 millimeter and the are exactly angled (don´t ask how it´s possible). And as soon as i came here to type this response i noticed Bold Beagles comment: "I made my first batch of tiles today. My first few were pretty rough, but Ive found making a 3x3 chipboard template got the best results" These are the kind of things you need to add your videos as i have noticed in many of the videos you have posted you use the term "you just got to get used to it" or "you get good at eyeballing it". But for some reason i just can´t "git gud" at it. As such perhaps making a version 2 of the video and discuss more in depth about what could be used as guides, chipping down on foam? I don´t know, i just needed to get some of my chest as the current guides you have on cutting and the proxxon are not really relevant to me and at the same time maybe give you an idea of a future video. Do mind that i am not ripping in to you, the videos you have are inspiring and i have taken several ideas and modified them a bit to my skill. I will keep watching as many have helped me a bit but i still need to somehow conquer the 3x3 tiles and bigger, i think the guider pro might be a solution? Anyways, end of rant.

[@WizO774]

To much arm in the way lol

[@barryloughran3632]

Ok, but you can Afford the wastefulness. I cannot

[@barryloughran3632]

I understand, but dont hav the freedom