How to Design, Size & Tune a Ported Subwoofer Box in WinISD for Deep Bass: Home Theatre or Car Audio

[@seanmcdonald656]

Fantastic. This is the best in-depth video I have watched on using WinISD and design a sub box. Thanks for the hard work put into this

[@How2EveryStep]

Thanks Sean. Building subwoofer boxes is a bit of a passion of mine so thought I would share my knowledge in this video :)

[@mikewaters6980]

A super detailed video with easy-to-follow steps. Thanks for your work on this vid.

[@dimchohvarchilkov683]

Brilliant! Short and high density video containing all necessary info for the design! Thank you!

[@How2EveryStep]

Thank you. Hope you find it useful How2everystep.com

[@ghicicines]

Thank you my friend for explaining the program.

[@ytb13]

Include your subsonic filter and cabain/room gain in winisd making sure your frequency curve is right. Without you get a major boost in the lower frequencies when playing in your car.

[@ganesh7hillsstereo373]

Excellent representation of using WINISD.

[@henrycaldwell238]

you might mention that the slope on the low end if 6 db per octave per box order. so on the 4th order bass reflex project you show... people can notice that 6db x 4thorder = 24 db per octave slope. so at 9 minutes you see the peak at 36 and one octave lower, 18hz is -22db 24 db down. I often use this to suggest the subsonic filter at 1/2 octave below the peak, or where you are 12 db down. In this case 25hz range.

[@How2EveryStep]

Great tip - thanks Henry :)

[@requestfx5585]

How can it be that you set Xmax to 5mm and in cone excursion its suddenly 16mm?

[@DJCJ999]

This is brilliant information but this processes is from the speaker up.. I have a situation where I I have to make a custom enclosure that fit's under the back seat of my Ranger.. How do you work the other way? Say I build a box that fits the position and from there I have the Cu3 size how do I match a speaker to the box?.. I could add a port or ports, that wouldn't be a problem but how do I go about sizing the sub?

[@jbradshaw7]

And how did it turn out? I must admit at about the half way stage I was thinking of abandoning the "design it all myself" approach and instead finding some free or paid plan for my subwoofer, though that restricts me quite a bit in terms of driver choice. In the UK there doesn't seem to be as much choice as in the US (most self build videos assume we have access to parts express!)

[@arthurmargaryan126]

Thank you very much. So much became clear after this video!?

[@How2EveryStep]

Really glad you found it useful! Bit of a brain dump of my sub box builds do date... thanks How2everystep.com

[@SpeakerKevin]

How did the X-max go from 5mm in the beginning to 16mm towards the end?

[@turtleciber6178]

HELLO THERE , THANKS FOR THIS GREAT VIDEO , I JUST HAVE A QUESTION : BY ADDING MORE PORTS THE LENGHT INCREASES , DO I DIVIDE THE TOTAL LENGHT BY THE AMOUNT OF PORTS , THEN MAKE THAT THE PORTS LENGHT FOR EACH ONE ??? FOR EXAMPLE : MY DESIGN REQUIRES 4 ROUND SHAPE OF 6.80 CM DIAMETER , WITH A LENGHT OF 54.16 CM , DOES THAT MEAN THAT EVERY SINGLE PORT HAS TO BE 54.16 CM , OR DO I DIVIDE THAT IN 4 ( AMOUNT OF PORTS ) AND THE GIVEN RESULT WILL BE THE REAL SINGLE PORT LENGHT ??? HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SOON , THANK YOU !!!!!

[@Paulscole3]

Using a 15" driver, is 18 hertz too low for a ported home theater box? Is there an "average" number that I should be aiming for?

[@PepijnHazelhof]

I only find speakers wof which I can't find enough data of, do you have a good place to find more data as in the data sheet

[@How2EveryStep]

@PepijnHazelhof Good question. I can recommend Dayton Audio. They have extensive data sheets you can download from their web site. thanks how2everystep.com

May I ask: does the volume of the box include the volume of the vent?. Thank you

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi Phuc. The volume shown in WinISD excludes the port/vent volume. So you need to add the vent volume to the calculated box volume to get the total box volume. Thanks How2everystep.com

@@How2EveryStep Thank you very much. This information is really important to me

[@michaelpirolt7891]

Great Video! But I don't understand how the Xmax of your Woofer jumpes from 5mm (spreadsheet in the beginning) to 16mm (at Step 6). Any advice on this?

[@How2EveryStep]

Thanks Michael. I will need go check myself and get back to you. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@joans.cerdan8162]

​@@How2EveryStep have same problem here, great video btw :)

[@thatguykai479]

So the sub u used is set at 31 fs. is it ok that u are tuning much lower then the recommended? For example you ended up using 31 for the fs then say your f3 is 25-29 range wouldn’t that be to low ? You’d be looking for a f3 of 38 or else you’d risk bottoming out on your sub right ? Just trying to get an understanding on that part you have helped me more then you could ever know thank you have a great day buddy

[@How2EveryStep]

@@thatguykai479 Hello. So f3, is the frequency on the dB vs frequency curve where the response is 3bB lower than the flat response, I.e. the point where the low end frequencies start to drop off. Therefore you would expect the f3 to be lower than the tuning frequency fs. Hope that makes sense? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@thatguykai479]

@@How2EveryStep I see hey thanks so much for replying did not expect u to reach back I really appreciate it and I hope you have a great 4th of July

[@thatguykai479]

@@How2EveryStepthoughts on group delay ? For a vented subwoofer f3 of 26 and fs of 32

[@How2EveryStep]

@@thatguykai479 hey. Personally and ideally I like an f3 sub 20hz to really feel the bass (sub bass). And a fs in the 20hz to 30hz region sounds awesome. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@EdgarMendezz]

Any help on fixing a “invalid floating point” error when I try to edit my box net volume?? I have windows 11 pro and my drivers are updated……

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. I have never seen an invalid floating point in WinISD before. Maybe start a new project and see if that helps. Sometimes you can lose your tuning frequency when particular parameters are edited out of possible ranges... thanks How2everystep.com

[@michaelblackmer8183]

Awesome video and the best explanation of tuning frequency I've found. What about the tuning frequencies of other woofers like a mid?

[@How2EveryStep]

Thanks Michael! To be honest I only have experience in subwoofer enclosure design, so only know about bass tuning frequencies. Can anyone else reading this advise? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@SkittlesScott]

what if I want ultra low infrasonic bass? like a peak at 18hz? would I need a big box tuned super low? or multiple drivers? I have 2 12 inch drivers. How do I know how flat the in room response will be?

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. Generally you need a larger subwoofer box, and also a subwoofer with a lower frequency response. I am currently designing a subwoofer box for a 10 inch subwoofer (Dayton Audio UM10- 22) and the box tuning frequency is 22Hz with a F3 of 17Hz. Your 12 inch subwoofers would probably go even lower. In my experience the room gain adds SPL to that calculated for the subwoofer box, but does not alter the frequency response. Hope this helps? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@SkittlesScott]

@How2EveryStep Thank you. I went with 2 separate boxes tuned at 21.5hz. They are 3.7 cubic foot each, and the in room response for them is an estimated F3 of 14-15Hz. Only gonna put 80 watts to each of them. Not sure what amp I can use other than an amp from a polk psw10. They are dual 2 ohm subwoofers.

[@How2EveryStep]

@@SkittlesScott good job - you should get a great bass sound and feel with that response! Keep me posted how it goes. The 10" dayton audio ultimax sub box I am building will be powered by a 500W RMS car amp, that is powered by a 500W pcu (to be able to run the 12v can amp with 240v mains). It was the cheapest method of big power output amp with build in high and low pass filters. Looking forward to powering it up soon! Thanks How2everystep.com

[@hermangaviria690]

Fantastic video. I have a question though, for system input power we need to input the "RMS" and not the "Peak Power" ? wont this only give us a modelled rear wind velocity graph that gives us a port that should not cause chuffing only if it stays at or below the rms ? I might be a little confused about this because I have been modelling my subs (not building them) by inputting the peak power of the driver into winisd

[@How2EveryStep]

Thanks. Good question - it comes down to what amp power you are running. Generally you size your amp to match the subs RMS power, so no risk of over powering your subwoofer. I always size to the sub RMS or amp power, which ever is lower if you are on the limit of high air velocity causing chuffing... thanks How2everystep.com

[@serenityfpv]

Awesome video but i still feel totally lost. I am a newbie at this and want to design a subwoofer box... i bought two 4x8 sheets of mdf. I wish winisd would just tell me where to make the cuts on the board so i can make a good box? I am thinking of using the dayton audio mx12-22 12" subwoofer. But i already have the ds18 slc12s subwoofers already. Would the dayton be a better upgrade from the ds18? I need help, sorry for the long message but my brain is going in circles!

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. I am currently doing a dayton audio ultimax 10" sub box build. I would suggest modelling both of your subwoofer options and let the winisd inform your decision based on the response you are after. Re the box design, I would suggest basing the design on a max height and width and then size the depth on the calculated volume. Good luck How2everystep.com

[@serenityfpv]

@@How2EveryStep I just want a box that makes my subs sound good? Not really looking for a certain hz or anything, just want it to sound good on most hz frequencies... I am using the sub for home theater. I am terrible at algebra and all the different speaker variables is still new to me. I just wish I had a cut sheet or measurements so I can get to cutting and building and ha e a good (decent) sub box! Thank you for the fast reply? Any other tips for me?

[@How2EveryStep]

@@serenityfpv I would say persevere with winisd and go for a flatish frequency response. The setup that winisd proposes is normally good. Personally I like to tweak for more of a bass boom. Good luck. How2everystep.com

[@serenityfpv]

@@How2EveryStep But winisd does not give measurements on how to make the box that makes sense to me? Where does it show the dimensions? Your website doesnt work my friend. If parts express recommended vented enclosure is 2.8ft³, how to i turn that formula into something i can get measurements for my mdf board to make a box??

[@How2EveryStep]

@@serenityfpv winISD will give you the volume of the enclosure - this is the volume of the box plus the volume taken up by the subwoofer speaker and the port. WinISD also gives you the port length based on the heigh and width you enter. Then I am afraid a bit of design work to design an enclosure that meets those volumes. I have done another video based on making the subwoofer enclosure, so please watch that video. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@DoTheSchwoo]

I'm having some issues. I'm building a box for an audi q7, DS18 Hooligan 15" (4ohm) single ported enclosure. Could you please help

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. Sounds like a fun subwoofer project! What do you need help with? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@DoTheSchwoo]

@@How2EveryStep I want to use the most space I can, I have alot of it. I have my entire third row and wheel well to build a box for a DS18 Hooligan 15" (HOOL15. 4). Every time I try to calculate specs I get a really small box that just seems way too small for the back of my suv. I'm not sure how I can stretch out the specs winsd spits out while keeping the same requirements for the sub/Amp combo

[@How2EveryStep]

@@DoTheSchwoo first work out what volume you have in your boot. The put this volume into WinISD to see what impact it has on the frequency response curve. I would suggest having 2 project open so you can compare the original winISD proposal to the project with the bigger volume. You should see you can achieve a lower bass peak with the larger enclosure and port volume. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@DoTheSchwoo]

OK will do. This to me is going to be one of the more challenging parts of this learning experience. Im also going to have some trouble when it comes to the electrical side of things. I got all my tools and supplies "table saw, router, Jigsaw, circle saw, sander, Brad nailer, shop vac, circle jigs...", now it's working around my OCD and making it actually happen. I can't just be OK with simple. I want to incorporate the wheel well which used to hold the spare wheel and stock "bose" subwoofer. It currently has 2 XS super capacitors and 1 secondary w/ lc2i, my current setup is in a simple ported box that was prefab and most Def not the appropriate size for setup "DS18 x2 15" exl xx". I've been told that these subwoofers "HOOL15.4" work well in band pass or 4th order enclosures and wanted to get a second opinion on that option as well. I also want to explore my options for adding an attached section for some mid/high speakers. My amps are currently mounted to the back of my seats, despite my very clear request to not be mounted there. I would like to get some info on what methods work for building Amp racks. Is there someone that I could pay to design this more complicated setup for me? I'm confident in my ability to build it however I'm hesitant to put my math into action or just numbers in general. My brain works creatively

[@fl5537]

Isn't 30ms group delay too much? Does group delay affect transient response?

[@Clobercow1]

It's not. And No.

[@aaronali8950]

Good stuff bro. Noticed you didn't touch on port length or end correction. Any chance of a follow-up on these? In terms of, if there a port length that is "too long" & is end correction already applied or does it need to be? Also, for larger builds, confined spaces & higher power applications, 17 m/s vent velocity is close to impossible in a lot of cases. Any advice on this? A lot of experienced members of the community mention 30 m/s as "acceptable" in such cases as stated above. Do you agree? Currently in search of end correction information with regards to winisd in particular.

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi Aaron. Sorry for the late response. Hope this doesn't reach you after you sub box build? So WinISD takes into account end correction when it calculates the port length. So the port length displayed is the total length you physically make. As for vent velocity - 15ish m/s avoids chuffing with hardly any radius needed on the vent opening. You can go up to 30m/s but I would advise a large radius vent opening (around 2cm radius) to avoid chuffing. Don't forget the calculate port length is in addition to the radiused part of the port inorder to keep the calculated tuning frequency. Hope this helps?

[@7Logik]

@@How2EveryStep what about flares in both ends , how would that impact m/s?

[@How2EveryStep]

@@7Logik Flated ports can be used to reduce chuffing I.e. reduce the air speed at the entrance and exit to the port, how ever it won't help with noise due to high velocities in the port itself. I always suggest at least a small flare at the entrance and exit of the port, but if possible you should size the port to sensible velocities. Don't forget that the flared port ends are not to be included in the calculated port length. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@shastriroopchand1245]

Why does the input power go from 240 to 100 watts in step 7 and 8

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi Shastri. Sorry - no particular reason. I think i was seeing the impact of different amplifier powers. I would recommend entering the highest of your subwoofer rms power or amplifier rms power. It should future proof your design. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@SpeakerKevin]

Isn't there just 1 voice coil but has 4 layers?

[@How2EveryStep]

@@SpeakerKevin hi there. dual voice coil from memory. thanks how2everystep.com

[@binners7872]

best winisd video ive found. if i want to do a wedge shape box can i still design it as rectangle box in winisd?

[@How2EveryStep]

Thanks Binners! Yes - you can use WinISD to size the volume of your bass box and port and then make the shape of your box whatever you want. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@binners7872]

@@How2EveryStep instant reply as well just subbed you beautiful man 👌

[@binners7872]

I've inputted the info in the order you said as best as I could I'm not sure about whether dvc are parallel or series assuming parallel and a couple other calculations are not quite what is on rockford fosgate site. Corrected them to what is on fosgate site and getting a massive error list in integrity check for bl fs mms re qes rme bl re qts qms qes mpow rme cms vas sd vd sd xmax. 'Some are repeated in my list too' Should I ignore the errors and continue, or assume the winisd calculations are right?

[@How2EveryStep]

@@binners7872 First of all you need to decide whether you will wire your subwoofer dual voice coils in series or parallel. You will need to check how the voice coil impedance matches your amplifier impedance range - then wire in series or parallel to suit. Try that see how that impacts your WinISD calc. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@How2EveryStep]

@@binners7872 Regarding the errors between the Rockford fosgate data sheet and the WinISD, its is OK for there to be some minor differences, as this is likely to be due to e.g. rounding errors. Let me know how you get on once you have decided on the parallel vs series rounding errors... thanks How2everystep.com

[@djclabbe88]

Great video! :) A question, when entering the X-max value is it one way or 2 way? And is there possible to entre X-Mech. The port dimension should differ if you calculate for a woofer that moves 8mm x-max, but can move 16mm x-mech?

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. X-max is the distance the voice coil can travel from rest until it is out if the magnetic gap. X-mech is the distance the voice coil can move until it hits mechanical stops. You don't ever really want to reach x-mech as you risk damaging your subwoofer driver. So I would recommend just designing for x-max. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@djclabbe88]

@@How2EveryStep Thanks for answer :) That sounds about right. But shouldn't the port dimension have to be bigger (to not get too high air speed in the port) if the sub CAN move say 80mm x-mech peak-to-peak, but you only told winisd it will travel +/-20mm? The air speed will rise significant when the sub moves double amount of air? I just want to be on the safe side and don't get port-noise :)

[@How2EveryStep]

@@djclabbe88 Winisd use x-max to calculate the port dimensions. Correct me if I'm wrong but you only want the subwoofer driver to travel in the x-max range. You want to avoid approaching the x-mech range as the speaker will bottom out and damage. Hence designing for x-max you are in a safe place. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@harrypee1]

@How2 EveryStep.......why did you used the UM8-22 for the Cone Excursion instead of the Skytronic 8IN 902.426?

[@How2EveryStep]

Well spotted! A bit of a video footage from another subwoofer box design got mixed in. Same rules apply though. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@bluyaris]

@@How2EveryStep Fortunately, I realized before ordering that speaker to test... with a 5mm cone excision, not even with a 1cu/ft closed box and 30w input can that power be handled by that speaker. So those 250w rms must be in a closed box of 0.1 cu/ft. With any vented box, the cone excursion is already too bigat very low powers, regardless of the size of the box or the vent.

[@OGBOX-pm3vz]

Its said 30ms is acceptable for (Group delay) / .. But can i get away with 32ms on (Group delay) ??

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi og. It is said that group delay over 30ms is audible, so I would suggest to try to go lower if at all possible. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@OGBOX-pm3vz]

@@How2EveryStep by (Audible) you mean?

[@How2EveryStep]

@@OGBOX-pm3vz so when group delay is too large you will notice e.g. your sub not being in time with your other speakers. It is best to keep all speaker group delay to below 30ms so the music from all speakers sounds 'in line'. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@to3634]

At 4:18 Your speaker showed up red for the integrity test and not green but you still continued. I thought you weren’t supposed to do that?

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi there. Well spotted :) The reason it showed up red is because I overwrote some of the WinISD paramaters with known values from the supplier datasheet. Outside of the video I did a trial run with using all the autogenerated values and the integrity test showed up green. But I preferred overwrite with datasheet values. I would suggest you only overwrite values if they are close to the autogenerated ones - to avoid the risk of design errors. Hope this helps?

[@to3634]

@@How2EveryStep ok thanks. I noticed it so I was just wondering. 👍🏻

[@How2EveryStep]

@@to3634 let me know if you need any more advice on you subwoofer box build :)

[@to3634]

@@How2EveryStep ok I do actually. Everything on my build checks out except for the group delay which peaks at 45 ms and I can’t change much without throwing everything else way off. Do you think that will be much of a problem?

[@RobHTech]

Ya, but for some reason, when you change your tuning Hz, the box size doesn't change. I thought that ideally you want as flat of a response as possible to help prevent unwanted resonances.

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi Rob. In terms of the flat response I would say it is a matter of personal taste. I prefer a slight peak around the bass frequencies to achieve a bass boom. High peaks are only really good for SPL subs - where you do get high volumes at the peak frequencies but you sacrifice volume at the other frequencies... Hope this helps?

[@LowetheTechGuy]

@@How2EveryStep yeah everyone likes a little bump now and then just don't go overboard.

[@supampaul3606]

I'm totally confuse pls help

[@How2EveryStep]

What do you need to know exactly? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@Clobercow1]

Group delay doesn't matter for bass outside of very specific situations. Group delay at 33 hz has no audible effect. It should be the least of your worries.

[@How2EveryStep]

I agree group delay for 33hz is not such an issue as that frequency is not audible. However the frequencies close above the peak ie 60hz are audible so group delay is a consideration. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@ixyzyxi]

Above 60 hz shouldn’t even be played by subwoofer Even my 13 cm b&w cm1’s have a -3db at 55 hz…

[@lbassaudiofactorylalith8729]

thanks

[@bencook8109]

Whats the point if you stil have to draw out and figure out box dimensions? You already had all the ts perimeters and all that you did is input what you already had into winisd. The sub manufacturers already provide the recommended enclosure volume and most will also advise how much cf airspace the sub takes up.

[@NaviBhatia]

can i ask you to make me a box for my ds18 15inch subwoofer ?

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi Nav. Do you mean design the sub box in WinISD? If so am happy to. I have just bought a dayton audio ultimax 10" subwoofer UM8-10, so will be designing that bass box first... thanks How2everystep.com

[@NaviBhatia]

@@How2EveryStep yes please and I will send you the whole details of the subwoofer, I really really appreciate it because I tired and this stuff doesn't get into my brain thank you!!!

[@How2EveryStep]

@@NaviBhatia if you send me a link to the subwoofer datasheet that should be enough. Plus will need to know your overall dimensions that you need to fit it in. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@NaviBhatia]

@@How2EveryStep hey i want make sure u got my reply because i replied twice and if u still haven't, the sub name is DS18 EXL-XX15.2DHE 15" High Excursion Car Subwoofer 4000 Watts Dvc 2-Ohm, also i have 2 of these in my car. My car is 2019 camry le but idk the trunk dimensions. Im sorry

[@How2EveryStep]

@@NaviBhatia got your reply thanks. I will look up the subwoofer datasheet. What kind of frequency response are you after? Big bass peak for max spl or a flatter response as per the video? What is the maximum height of your sub box (so I can size your port). Thanks How2everystep.com

[@supampaul3606]

Brother help me

[@How2EveryStep]

Hello. What do you need to know with your Subwoofer box build? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@narmale]

" for DEEP bass!" 33hz... HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA My HT laughed at 10hz

[@How2EveryStep]

The tuning frequency was 33hz, but the F3 was low 20Hz so as deep as you can hear. Lower is nice for feeling the bass but not possible for this subwoofer. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@davidstevens7809]

Problem is. Youre doing this totally in reverse. I was taught the understanding of the controlling variables first..,if you learn this you can tune a box and find port dia and length easily.. if you understand how to tune an empty ported box to a target frq. Then its simple.. ok.. ill get enemys here. With any given port dia.. ( give.) And any size box.. if you lengthen the port it tunes it lower..if you stick with any port dia and length.. if you increase box size..you tune lower.. if keep box the same and port length the same.. if you increase port dia..it tunes higher..thats all that matters. YES..IF ANY 2 VARIABLES ARE KNOWN. the box can be tuned with the last variable.. throw away your computer.. all you need is tone generator and no filters or eq involved.. play flat sweep into amp and watch the driver. Where it stops moving is tuned freq.. yes includes variables in vehicle the stupid math doesnt account for.

[@How2EveryStep]

Hi David. Thanks for your extensive reply. Indeed there are 2 physical sizing variables: port and box volume. Unfortunately the 2 volumes directly interact, due to the port volume occupying more or less volume inside the box volume. Hence, the video method shows how to tweak the 2 variables to achieve the required tuning frequency. Quite often (specially in car builds) the sub box max volume is set by the available max external dimensions, so at least this guides the iteration process. Thanks How2everystep.com

[@davidstevens7809]

@@How2EveryStep im old.. we worked with room we had and tuned it..right now im dealing with a big box with 4 15 inch solobaric woofers. The box is so tall that its only 13 inches from the headliner..so the sweep I do tomorrow will tell me what to do to fix the setup

[@How2EveryStep]

@@davidstevens7809 4 x 15" woofer - sounds like a beast! Is that in a van? Thanks How2everystep.com

[@davidstevens7809]

@@How2EveryStep its not easy as putting in more product.. simply changing positioning or tinker with variables can sometimes get you great results..

[@SpeakerKevin]

8:50 This is a terrible design. The 250 watt power handling starts to drop off at 90 hz due to the 5mm cone excursion, and continues until it can only handle 41 watts between 40 and 50hz. One of the very first things you have to look at when doing a speaker design is the power limited by X-max.

[@grizzly6385]

What do you mean by that? How is the power limited by the Xmax and where can I look at it?

[@SpeakerKevin]

@@grizzly6385 The design starts out using a driver with only a 5mm of X-max. which as designed, would have shown to have a terrible power handling due to the limited travel. But then when he gets to showing the part where it shows cone excursion, he swiches to a driver that has 16mm of x-max 11:40