HOW TO DEVELOP 120 FILM IN THE LAB-BOX

A few of the homies wanted to know how to do it, so here it is. Much love as always.
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[@alt.mindcontrol]

A couple of notes on the use of the Lab Box: 1.) The crank agitator isn't that useful. It puts some leverage on the retaining ring, and can cause it to come unlocked, doing disatrous things to your developer and film. At the amout of agatation that it won't, the knob works just fine, and will be 100% reliable. So, I recommend not paying anything extra for the crank. And if you just have the crank, take it easy, and put a thumb on the retaining ring. 2.) ***Super Super Extra Important*** - Very easy to forget. Make sure you release the film drop (i.e. turn the black knob BACK TO THE TRIANGLE) before you try to wind your film onto the spindle. Otherwise, you'll just pull the clip off the end of the film, shredding the film, probably causing you to ruin at least the first shot. Opinions about the product: 1.) Crazy easy to use. On my 4th roll now, and it seems to work really well, once I figured out the two things listed above. Kind of expensive, but you don't need a light changing bag or darkroom at all. 2.) I totally agree that the 120 should come with a separate spindle, solely because it takes at least some thinking and examination to figure out how to fit the spiral guides on the sides. If you're forcing anything, or anything is loose, you're doing it wrong. Personally, I'd prefer just to leave the 35mm and 120 guides set up permanently, and never put any wear on them or think about them again. If I can ever buy just a separate spindle, I will.

[@saurabhbhardwaj6753]

I just developed my first roll in 35 and this is exactly what happened...developer started bleeding through the hole and somehow I managed to put the crank back and kept going...will know in 3-4 hours how well I did. ..

[@BillPutnamPhoto]

This seems like way more work than necessary. I'm def buying a Patterson tank set up.

[@wufei5202]

Nobody asked

[@randallstewart1224]

Note re 120 film processing in LB. Since the film is rolled into its loading chamber from its tail end, you are left with the beginning of the roll sticking out, to which the "clip" is attached. It is easy to leave the beginning of the roll out so far that the first exposure is light-struck and lost. It's important to pull as much film as possible into the storage chamber and to not pull the 120 roll end out while removing its end-tape or to attach the clip. Of the several formats put in 120 film, some use more or less of the whole roll. There is an excellent YT video out there which shows how to modify how you load your 120 roll in your camera to move any unused part of the roll to the beginning, thus minimizing the chance of loosing that first exposure.

[@ThaShooterFiles]

New to film and you did a amazing job explaining how that process works. I just know I’m gonna have to try it a few times and mess it up just to get it right but thank you so much for doing a vid on this because some of us newbies to film needed.

[@wingding7955]

Hurts my soul hearing 120mm lol

[@adamwolstenholme]

Hahaha why is this so good, I came looking for advice on this home dev kit and left after finding your channel, all smiles. Awesome and hilarious channel dude I hope you make more videos in the future! Also thanks for the how-to, the official company tutorials are indeed crappy.

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Thank you so much!! Glad you dig what I'm doing here. I upload every week :)

[@walterl8863]

This is the best lab box tutorial! In every fkn way!! Included MGS soundtrack.. 👏👏👏👏

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Means a ton to me. Glad you dig what I'm doing here haha

[@leewiren8404]

Thanks Dude! I know I'm wayyyy late to the party here, but I have one of these daylight tanks and have been doing my 135 film. Just followed your guide to process my first roll of 120, super helpful, thanks!

[@mueslimuncher1950]

120 format film is NOT 120mm!😬

[@RunNGunPhoto]

Finally, the *120MM* tutorial I've been looking for!

[@SweetLouPhotography]

my favorite MM

[@peter-robinson]

120MM? aaaargh! Nooo

[@Astrolavista]

I learnt something and I laughed, what more can you ask for. Oh I'm here because I can't afford a GFX50r.

[@artemorbid]

This is amazing. i wish i would have seen this before i bougth the paterson container

[@SweetLouPhotography]

It's definitely a cool set up!!

[@AMTunLimited]

Out of all the things I was expecting in a analog film tutorial...a Jacksfilms reference was not one of them. That's a sub from me!

[@SweetLouPhotography]

***BIG BRAIN OVER HERE, I kept calling it 120mm. Oops. Yes I'm aware it's 120 film now. Not mm. Sorry. Just shout the word film everytime I say it in the vid.*** Happy developing squad fam, just make sure you assemble that reel correctly and you should be golden.

[@roycevanbeethoven]

Hey, just a note-120 is a Kodak designation. Just as 135 is the designation for 35mm film. 120 film would be known as 60mm film, but the motion picture industry already took that, so we're left with "120 film" which is slightly unfortunate, since it doesn't mean anything.

[@marksummers5504]

First practice with a cheap roll of 35mm. I ruined my first roll as well and learned how sensitive it is to spool each roll. It actually works well once you’ve done a few. Developing C41 is a breeze

[@VelvetElvis8]

Looks like a good system! Nice video thanks!

[@sanderforpresident]

It looks so wonky with the all plastic build but it seems to work pretty well :) That pun though............. 10/10

[@SweetLouPhotography]

haahah thanks bro

[@maxhamman]

way better then the other ones. thanx

[@thewhitevan1]

Bruhh that intro just slapped me in the face ! i want more!

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Thanks sooooo much. I'll make more music when the time is right haha

[@inevitablecraftslab]

so what is the advantage again? this seems way more work than a tank.

[@guitarstud1]

First time developing film and wished I saw this before I ruined two rolls 😆 lol Thank you for the informative demo! Those reels are terrible, hope they update and fix them soon!

[@Shingie]

- YES SIR!

[@JacobCarlson]

Before some film nerd can do it: *120 FiLm iSnT 120 mIlLiMeTeRs!!!1!! iTs JuSt ThE nAmE* (pushes glasses back up)

[@SweetLouPhotography]

haahahaha thanks bro, fixed it

[@billtalker3843]

So, I’m assuming this box doesn’t work for the odd shaped canisters of disposable or amateur cameras? I love the idea of the box though!

[@sdaluz11]

it's not 120mm film. It's a Kodak naming convention 1 is for day light loading and 20 for the version

[@UlreyProductionsfilm]

Shredded love that live jam

[@SweetLouPhotography]

thanks so much!!

[@beckydanese3077]

A little late to the party but love your tutorials (life saver for the 35mm). Some how I totally ruined my first 120 roll though - film got stuck to itself inside the tank? Any ideas what I might have done wrong?

[@benclark1423]

Make one of these that looks like the Lament Configuration and I’m sold. All of my photos look like unspeakable horrors anyway.

[@SweetLouPhotography]

that would be metal as fuck

[@spiritwalker6153]

After a few hiccups I got my first roll of 120 film developed. Happy would be an understatement. Everything worked just as advertised.

[@mp3remix171]

hahaha the edits, great work man!

[@SweetLouPhotography]

glad you dig them haha. I had a lot of fun with the edits in this one

[@johanssonstudio]

As difficult as you made it look in a lighted room I can’t image do something so fiddly in the dark.

[@salvatorerapicano6683]

Hi, your video is very nice. I’m starting to use the Lab Box, I was just wondering: the chemicals dose are the same quantities like with the developing tank ? If not, where I can get the link for those, I guess Ilford site. Please let me know. Thank you ;)

[@fangxusun1723]

Nice try, but a traditional tank is far easier to use.

[@nthnth1815]

may i know if using the continuous agitation(the one ur using) method as stated from Ars-Imago which is with 250mL of chemicals in 39.C, is it just keep rotating the dial continuously non-stop for 3 mins and 15 seconds only (for cs41)? FYI i only use colour negs and Ilford XP2.

[@derekpalmer_creativemedia]

Sick Music, Sick Photos, Sick Tutorial! haha

[@MFfuji29]

Thank you for a very helpful tutorial

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Glad you dig it!! :)

[@ChrisEdgecombePhoto]

Great videos, have you had any issues with scratches on the film? I’ve seen a few reports stating that this happens?

[@SweetLouPhotography]

I can't say I've had issues with film scratches-- will respond if I do though! (Also can't say I'm developing a ton of rolls, so maybe it's an issue if you use it more frequently than I do?)

[@UlreyProductionsfilm]

Great shots too

[@SweetLouPhotography]

You rock, thank you so much

[@flavioserci6046]

It is too much expensive.199 euro!!! I think that it is better a simple traditional tank and reels.

[@ffionjames1130]

Does it work with colour film?

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Yes, it works with whatever chemistry you put in. I just happened to use chemistry for b&w

[@kaheab8880]

C41 process requires the chemistry to be kept at 102 degrees. I use a steel tank and reel for my 120 and 135 but put the tank in a water bath that’s kept at temperature. I’d assume it would work but you’d have to put the whole lab box in the bath in between agitations? Idk. For me this seems easier only for loading the reel (my hands get a bit sticky in a changing bag lol esp in Hawaii humidity).

[@randallstewart175]

It looks like they did a complete redesign of the 120 reel at the last minute, as the original reel was supposed to be adjustable for both 35mm and 120. In doing so, they made a pig's breakfast out of the assembly of the 120 reel. Add that the instructions seem to have been not updated to match the reel design, and misassembly of the 120 reel is a given, not an exception. To add both insult and injury, they only give you one (common) reel core, so you have to disassemble and reassemble the reel each time you change formats; what a rip off as well as imposing unnecessary wear and tear on such critical (plastic) parts. I was advised that I could purchase a second reel core by February, but that information is now "not current". On the whole, the Lab-Box is clever and well executed, and it flaws can be corrected by buying a cheap part (eventually) or practicing your technique. However, at the price point, there is never going to be a 2nd model. We from Kickstarter will be lucky to ever get the fancy high-tech replacement digital lid which was promised. They got six times the funding they wanted, so I assume they grossly underestimated the cost of designing for volume production.

[@randallstewart175]

My update at Aug 2020. In June ARS announced that they had finally completed the accessory digital lid which they owed to the Kickstarter crowd. However, they claim to have run through the huge pile of excess money they received, so the KS members would have to buy (pay more) for the digital lid. In the US that worked out to about $36 with shipping, but in some placed around the world, there seems to be some official price gouging charging up to triple that amount. ARS declares their Kickstarter commitments fulfilled, which in detail they are not. They have promised that parts will be available "later" for purchase, but given the track record, I'll believe it when I can buy my missing reel core. Overall, from a Kickstarter perspective, Lab-Box is a qualified success, in that the product was completed, it is of a quality more than sufficient to do its job, and though pushing three years overdue, it is substantially complete. IMO the delays and unaccounted disappearance of excess KS funds is attributable to a lack of necessary design and production people, i.e., bad business management. Other than KS members, the retail pricing on the full Lab-Box kit with accessories crank and digital lid totals more than $330. Paterson tank system is truly trash, but for $30-40, you can get a good quality 2 reel tanks system new, and if you have the knowledge and time you can pick though ebay and come up with a much more useful processing equipment package for a lot less than $330.

[@randallstewart175]

Two year update. In the US, ARS-IMAGO, the Lab Box maker, had two distributors. Feestyle in LA has been withdrawing for months from retail of this product, has put it on "clearance", and is clearly dropping its association with the maker and its product. B&H in NYC still offers the basic product, but none of the accessories and replacements required for long term support. There are rumors that large retailers of LB have cleared it from their warehouses and dumped en masses for as little as 10% of retail pricing. In the US, expect LB to be a historical footnote by mid-2023. To bad, because it is a high quality product which delivers what it promises, but was made and distributed by a small company which didn't have any idea what it was doing, including trying to sell it for twice what the market would tolerate. "LabBox II"? In your dreams.

[@BrianSu]

120 film isn't 120 mm like you mentioned

[@rmrfboy2951]

i think this is too expensive! i’d rather keep my paterson tank. the only advantage this system have is from the looks of it, it use fewer chemicals than the paterson (good for c41). other than that, it looks more complicated than just learning to put a film on the changing bag. after a few go on the changing bag, its second nature. another thing i see a flaw on this system is what happens if the film gets stuck while prepping into the spool? on changing bag, usually i just start all over without issues.

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Honestly, these days the Lab Box has been sitting in my closet! I've actually been meaning to do an updated version of this, I was literally just getting into 120 film at the time of making this vid. Fast forward to now, I no longer rely on labs, I develop everything I do myself, and I mainly use a Paterson tank as well. The lab box is an awesome idea, but there are flaws in the system that need to be addressed in an updated design. And I completely agree, it is expensive as well. Thanks for sharing your thoughts

[@derekr7814]

@@SweetLouPhotography do you do your own photo enlarging for 120 as well or are you scanning?

[@marksummers5504]

Why not simply make set sized reels and parts? They’re relatively inexpensive to produce and would make the entire process easier and more appealing for new film developers. Nonetheless, this is a great addition to any new film photographer without a darkroom and hates the pain in the ass black development bags.

[@SweetLouPhotography]

I feel ya. I bet they will do something like that in Lab-box 2. Lol

[@filmlovephotography]

I'm happy there is Patterson tanks 😂 I know, I know, no one asked 👍

[@Abiszet100]

:))) Just great!!!

[@zorkonthegreat5879]

It's not 120 mm.

[@danem2215]

Nothing against your video, but this definitely seems overly complex and cumbersome. A $25 changing bag and a normal tank would be far easier, faster, and convenient to use for those without adequate darkroom space. Hopefully this tank doesn't cost as much as I imagine it does

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Honestly, I've been meaning to make a follow up vid regarding this system. It has been in my closet for months at this point, and I have been doing exactly what you described for all my color film. (When I made this vid, I didn't really have a workflow in place that worked well for me. The system was genuinely very appealing, but I've learned so much since this vid and I am so much more comfortable with my current setup)

[@danem2215]

@@SweetLouPhotography I also don't have much of a proper workflow, and I agree that the premise of the Lab Box is very appealing - it's the reason I looked up a tutorial on the system! There's definitely room for improvement, and sadly at this point it's just easier to load my tank at night in my closet. Hopefully they'll make an easier device that makes it more appealing than changing bags.

[@JonflipXXX]

Best humor. Giggles like a girl every video

[@SweetLouPhotography]

Much love my guy. Thank you for always supporting my madness

[@macmacoytot]

how did it keep light sealed when you removed the paperbacking and clipped the actual film?

[@SweetLouPhotography]

I explain how it works at 4:11

[@alt.mindcontrol]

The film unwinds off the backing into a hidden light sealed container. That's what the black knob with the square and triangle is about. 1.) first the knob is on the triangle, so the film unwinds/unpeels into the hidden film holder 2.) then your turn the knob to the square, so the film is protected from the light, with just the end sticking out 3.) then you clip the end of the film to the spool winder, and replace the top 4.) only then do you turn the knob back to the triangle, releasing it from the hidden container 5.) now wind the film onto the spool, and proceed with development.

[@VariTimo]

120 isn’t 120mm wide. There is no such thing as 120mm film.

[@JonflipXXX]

Ooh i don't want to be that guy but i can't resist. It's not 120mm film. Its just 120, its like 135 film. Sorry.. i feel so dirty right now

[@SweetLouPhotography]

haahahaah I'm the worst. That's so cringe. Fixewd it!! Thanks bro

[@ADiConsultores]

Too low view angle for this tutorial...

[@RunNGunPhoto]

your mom's view angle is too low...