How to diagnose a bad starter, ignition, neutral safety switch!

The re are 3 wires or electrodes on all starters. One is the large bolt that is attached to the main positive battery cable. One is the small wire that is sometimes purple that is attached to the ignition switch "key". And one is just a copper wire or electrode that supplies a ground/power to the starter from the solenoid.

[@chrisferguson9771]

This man is incredible. Thank you Sir. Lesson on primary secondary wiring.

[@codyhamilton3622]

Well I appreciate the help and yeah I just went down the list ya threw out there and I checked all the ground conections made sure they was clean and tight and no bad wires. Hooked the booster cables to my truck a she popped off on the first try. Thank you again im glad an easy fix was all it was and not a couple hunderd dollar repar bill.

[@GeirGJohnsendto]

Excellent at least a guy that knows how these modern motors are working. Now I know how to be sure on that it isn't the neutral safety switch and not the ignition switch but rather the starter.

[@franciscocruzjr5721]

My 1999 Dakota did not start. This video was very helpful. I was able to replace the started and the starter relay. Thanks for this clip.

[@ImRamro]

Hey right on!! Thank you for the comment.

[@whokitkat]

awesome video to explain and show the logic behind deducing a starter problem! Big Big kudos to you!

[@Ns8shbl]

Thank you for your video. My car wouldn't start and was silent when turning the key. Just from watching your video I went back and found a loose wire. Found where it belonged and my car started with no problem.

[@jonrogers558]

Great quick educational vid Ram 🐏 keep up the great work!👍

[@TheKlayk]

Great Video! I live up in Northern Wisconsin and will be doing this tomorrow outside in sub-20 degree weather. This video will save me lots of frustration. Your the best!

[@williamfarley8434]

Great video, thanks for making it easy to understand.

[@codyhamilton3622]

Got it running it was a ground cable connection Thank you for the help much appreciated.

[@ImRamro]

Wow, that is awesome. Cody I really appreciate the feed back. I am just a guy who likes to turn wrenches here and there. It is pretty cool that you resolved the problem so quickly. Good job!

[@TreeBoi4Life]

Best explanation out there for this problem. My 92 corolla want start just batt light appears. Batt good, Alt new, so my problem is narrowed done to ns or ign switch or starter but from watching video it must be my switch or electrical.Door chime while key in the eng worked while mine doesn't and my radio want work but lights will and fuses checked out and I tested starter with jumper cables and it worked. I plan to use your way the next time its definitely better and the vid def. helps. Thx.

[@bdkelmon]

Thanks for the video I have a 2003 Honda Element. I wanted to test the switch and neutral safety switch before swapping out the starter and didn't know how til this watching this.

[@ImRamro]

Hey right on, hope it works out with little problem.

[@bdkelmon]

My starter did like the one in the video. Took the starter apart and one contact was missing.Ordered a rebuild kit.

[@ImRamro]

kelly miller Right on!

[@mrobvious5892]

No wonder why most people can’t trouble shoot electrical problems And are completely lost in space. Guys like this are running around “TEACHING” The unknowing and inexperienced Leaving them completely “LOST”. For the up-and-coming troubleshooters it’s hard to forget the “BAD” information that they’ve learned, there should be some sort of law against it!! I’m one of the lucky few who survived guys like this!!!!!!!!!!

[@foreverwood1963]

Thanks this helps me to troubleshoot my situation. My wife's car wouldn't start and it appeared to be the starter. I was just about to purchase the starter when I thought to myself Lord you haven't even bench tested it or even tested while it was still in the vehicle. I bench tested it and it ran. Tomorrow I need to make sure power is going there. I wish I could do a voltage drop, but obviously its not starting. But nevertheless I can see if my clutch switch is still functioning. Thanks again

[@bobbrawley4466]

I haven'tread many of the comments but had my kudos to your list of admirers Thanks for pulling the starter so I can see the three post and where you applied the test light

[@ImRamro]

bob brawley No problem Bob, thanks for commenting on other videos. I am just trying to catch up on my G+ account.

[@wandandala8952]

this is very helpful enx a lot keep up the good work

[@robertjernigan1774]

I have a 96 Nissan Sentra that i had a cranking problem with, i would turn the key and nothing! I changed the neutral saftey switch first and still nothing, so then i bought battery cables and same story nothing lol when i came across this video is when i bought a tester light and tested the ignition wire as shown in the vid, i had no power going to the wire so i purchased a new tumbler/ign switch installed it and she fired right up!!! Thanks for the help...

[@BenjaminWalker305]

It's fine, I thank you for the help you have given so far. You are very helpful and I thank you.

[@2bu4musik]

Great video! Time for me to invest in a test light. Thank you.

[@ImRamro]

Harbor Freight has them for 99cents.

[@Sheila6325]

Outstanding Information! Thank you. BUT I wish you had told me that the thing was unplugged BEFORE you started to touvh things with a metal piece of something, I had to tie myself to the chair to be able to watch it!!!LOLOL I'm scared to death of electricity! Especially batteries! when I heard it was unplugged, I was ok. Man you scared me. Chickens getting heads cut off is nothing compared to a man with a battery and a metal "stick" Thanks for the video, Very Good!!! I understood it too!!!!!

[@ImRamro]

I am glad the video helped out a little. Thank You!

[@TimothyJamesDean]

Thanks Ramro - if it's that simple, I'll be delighted! I hadn't thought to search for a fuse in the line itself. I pulled and checked all the heavy-duty fuses I could see in the under-hood fuse box; 30 - 50 amp, and none of them were blown. I'll let you know.

[@tomduncan1970]

Great video. Perfect way to explain how to diagnose. In fact... you just reminded me that I need to replace my test light... LOL

[@bent64]

Thanks, that confirms that my starter motor has flown the coop. Easy to follow, Thankyou.

[@vaniarosado4695]

Delighted to have had a response. You are very helpful. Thank you, Cindy, thank you, ImRamro. Bless you.

[@ImRamro]

Vania I usually check my messages each day, but some slip through the cracks. Please keep me updated or if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them. I am no mechanic, but today I replaced the axles in a friends 95 Honda Accord, lol. It is really nice to see another happy personality on KZbin!

[@713seand]

Man thank you for sharing. A tremendous help. keep it up

[@ImRamro]

+713SeanD. No problem SeanD, this is why KZbin exists, lol. I swear I could probably build a spaceship from watching all the howto tutorial videos. Thank you SeanD, it really means a lot.

[@ImRamro]

Thanks, I know that the solenoids are sold separately, but I figured most would just replace the whole thing. In this video I am replacing this on a friends Toyota, thanks for the tips I will use them in the future.

[@ImRamro]

It is easy, but you need to make sure that is the problem first. The fusible link is the second thickest wire that usually goes from the positive post of the battery to the starter. This wire can get fried by a short circuit of the battery. This wire has a thinner wire embedded inside so if it over heats or gets too hot it blows. It is usually the thickness of a pencil. I would check all the fuses you can get to first though.

[@toddmcneil5653]

Great video bud!! Thanks!

[@starlordish]

Thanks for info.not much of a repair person on cars.good job

[@ImRamro]

Some refurbished parts do have major problems. I have seen alternators, starters, and distributors "CAN" all have issues. It is a rare occurrence, but this does happen with refurbished. I purchase everything from Kragens and Autozone so I have had problems with parts before. I had the same issue with my old 1993 Chevy truck starter. It had the same issue you described. Once I got a good starter (3rd try), it never went bad again. It is just kinda the risk you take with refurbished Auto parts.

[@JaredReMillard]

This helped although at first I was confused and didnt know if you wanted me to test it with the battery terminal connected to the starter.

[@rickysarmienta]

wow bro...nice video. thanks for helping us all,i appriciated it a whole lot. god bless and good luck in ur future videos if any!!

[@charlesparsons3515]

as far as i know it didnt make any noises. it has been hard to get the key to turn alot before this problem though. it was involved in an accident before i ended up buying it. both airbags on dash and steering wheel were deployed. all ive done to it so far was a oil change and a new battery

[@Kaibil66]

This is a great tip... I'll try it now thx a lot.

[@gerlandkent6377]

[thank, you for you're very helpful info and you're video and you're time]👍👍

[@101Unit101]

Thanks for the response, and the sound starts when the car starts... it'll start up and the rpm shoots down and back up to the idling level it's kind of weird... but the reason why I ask is because I had a mechanic install it and wasn't sure if I should take it back to them to fix this problem

[@ImRamro]

Thank You for saying that. I try to reply with a comment when ever I get some help, but sometimes my hands are full of grease or I am in the middle of a project. I hope the Triumph is fixed soon..Good Luck!

[@ImRamro]

@charlesknx Yes, we pulled our starter from the top. The only trick was that it has two mounting bolts that were in two different directions. In the starter you have one bolt that comes into the block from the housing of the starter and threads into the block. The second bolt comes through the block "the opposite direction" and threads into the housing of the starter. If you pause the video at 8:22 you will see one of the bolt holes on bottom right "starter housing".

[@ImRamro]

I agree 100% you are right on the money. I was helping a computer nerd guy with his car, trust me he was not interested in seeing if it was the solenoid or the starter, lol. I pulled it apart and it was the brushes in the solenoid that were worn out. The starter was fine, but it was easier to just buy the starter with the solenoid attached. I guess I should have explained this, but the auto parts chain stores usually sell them as one piece nowadays. swapping the solenoid would have been cheaper

[@ImRamro]

@chamblizi My wife has a 1974 Ford GT Ranchero, if you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask. Glad you solved the problem.

[@ImRamro]

I was sticking the 99 cent Harbor Freight light tester into the ignition switch wire connector to see if it had power. The light tester is like an ice pick with a wire coming out attached to an alligator clip. I grounded the wire clip to a bolt/frame and touched the point of the tester into the ignition switch wire connecter. Each time the key was turned it sent power to the connector and made the light turn on.

[@Jnm349]

@ImRamro Thanks for the response. I'm also worried about the fact is that initially the starter was cranking for maybe couple of revolution and half an hour after it was just that clicking sound. I was thinking that maybe if the solenoid was bad , it would have made the clicking sound from the beginning.

[@concretechrissantoro2323]

Great explanation

[@TOYABKATWIN]

yes one day it just stop working...thanks alot for your help you helped me alot..

[@ICHLIEBEmusic]

Thank you. Yes I have a sound system but it was already killing batteries even before i installed the system. I had Oreiley's check my battery and alternator and both are good. I dont know what else it could be a possibility

[@nathanslaughter123]

That long stud on starter is positive. Both stubs but after the solenoid is energized the stud becomes positive powering the starter

[@cobradwight1]

Yep , not a ground as the creator of the video said .

[@BackOff3210]

ImRamro and you sir are absolutely awesome! you saved me a bunch of money with your very useful tips. Thanks!

[@ImRamro]

Hey right on!! When you guys leave comments like this....it is totally worth it. Thank you so much for leaving a comment.

[@LawnWrangler323]

I got a 78 Dodge Sportsman RV that has intermittent starting. I bypassed the neutral safety switch, hotwired it to bypass the ignition switch, and the starter appears to be functioning properly in the bench test. Anyone have any other ideas?

[@oscarsilva200]

Great video!

[@honeybadgerlover13]

Thank You. Very helpful. not loking foreward toworkin on my f-150. It's in a terribly bad,( hard to get a wrench or even socket on and try to turn) location.

[@ivonatinkl]

After looking at your video I am not sure its the starter at all, car clicks and sputters but just doesn't make it to start. But if you can get it started it will start fine for a while till the next day..thinking it has something to do with the fuel ratio or pressure. Anyways cheers its helped me narrow it down.

[@ImRamro]

If the starter is making a horrible high pitched grinding sound then it could be one of three things. 1. the starter gear is worn or not engaging in the flywheel, the solution could be replacing the gear or just buying a new starter. 2. The starter is weak and not throwing the gear far enough to engage the flywheel, the solution a new starter. 3. The flywheel is missing teeth and you will need a new flywheel. 4. The starter needs a shim (thin piece of metal) or may be loose.

[@jonathansoucheck8722]

Thanks for response. Could it still be neutral safety though, it's a manual trans??....and I have also replaced the clutch switch, and cleaned all my cables and battery terminals etc...thanks so much!

[@ImRamro]

@AMDGuy64 I had a Chevy that I replaced all the major components on and used huge industrial cables a friend made me. When I installed the new 1 inch thick cables I mounted them to a spot on the frame where I sanded the paint off. They looked sweet, but my voltage was dropping and sometimes the lights were dim. I tried everything I could think of and when I removed the ground cable I mounted it to a accessory bracket on the block. That fixed the problem...weird. Good Luck!

[@jannybee2012]

Thnx for the vid. I sometimes have this issue with my 99 buick century. It struggles to fully crank so I step on the gas whichbit helps most of times. I hear a grindin soumd and thumping at the same time plus white smokes comes out the muffler. When i do have problems i have to keep mybfoot on the gas sonit wont turn off. Sometimes when its failin tonturn on it would just click once and i would have to leave it alone for days. A mechanic read my starter at 75

[@jay-nh6et]

great video man.

[@x1ofakind1x]

thank you for this. i have a 02 camry and im having trouble even turning the car over. my friend tapped on the starter and my car turned on fine. did idle a bit roughly at times and the audio system doesnt work efficiently anymore. im hoping if i change the solenoid or the entire starter itself it'll help my car out.

[@kingchispas]

will the same method work for checking the same in a "67 cadillac fleedwood ? I'm getting trouble getting the car started .

[@ivonatinkl]

cheers for the advice mate, I will check into it.

[@ImRamro]

@AMDGuy64 Sounds like the alternator is not charging enough or the alternator is fine and the battery is not accepting the charge. Since you have a new batt and alternator, then it could be the large black negative cable from the battery needs to be mounted to the engine block "not" the frame and cleaned of all paint at mounting contacts. It may be something in your distributor or just bad/dirty/loose battery connections. I would start with the batt cables and move to the distributor wiring?

[@shaserv]

I’ve got a 2005 Mazda 3 I’ve replaced the SNS twice but it keeps going bad. Is my starter bad? Or what would cause the SNS to go bad.

[@ImRamro]

@Jnm349 If the starter is clicking it should be the solenoid. The sound is the power reaching the starter. It could be the flywheel or the starter shims, but sounds like a bad solenoid. If you remove the starter and leave the wires connected, just have someone turn the key. If the gear inside the starter gear does not jump out (every time) and spin VERY fast it is the solenoid. The solenoid is the problem a lot of cars have, its normal. At least you have power reaching the starter. SOLENOID!

[@ImRamro]

@Jnm349 That is a valid point, but sometimes the problem is intermittent. The only way to be sure that the starter is getting a signal every key turn would be with a tester light or a multi meter. I have had starters make no click and then crank a few times and then click. It is almost always the solenoid. You van set up a tester light with any 12 volt light and a few wires. Just put one on the solenoid power wire and the other to a GOOD ground and connect them to any extra bulb.

[@TimothyJamesDean]

The battery went dead in my F150. I got a guy to give me a boost, but he reversed the hookup with my cables at his car - that is, + to - and vice versa. So when I clamped onto my truck, there were extra sparks, but I didn't know anything was wrong until I turned the key; the wipers and washer started running without being on, but the starter did not turn. I checked the jump-hookup and saw the problem & corrected it. The dash lights up, but the starter won't turn. Any ideas?

[@carriekrull6021]

I have a 91 Park Avenue, and sometimes when I try to start it, all the idiot lights come on, but the starter won't engage. Nothing happens. There is resistance when I turn it, but the starter won't spin. I tried to override it at used jumper cables and put the positive on the starter, and the engine would crank and fire for a second, but wouldn't keep running. Thoughts?

[@jerryledesma7267]

Please answer. I have a 2004 Nissan quest. No crank, no start. I replaced the starter and the safety neutral switch. Car just clicks when I turn the key. All my fuses and relays r working. It all started when I replaced my radio with a aftermarket radio. As soon as I connected the radio, the car wouldn't crank over. Any suggestions?

[@ImRamro]

@scodurh If the key is on it constantly has power without turning the ignition. You could turn the ignition on and walk over to the starter and jump the solenoid. This should force a start but you are just jumping the power from the battery and grounding it on the starter. This does not guarantee you are getting power from the ignition.when the starter is making zero noise we had to test the wiring. The starter did not even click so we thought it was the ignition or the neutral safety switch.

[@SYLEX100]

u fellaz are sick dude =D ...very nice.

[@ImRamro]

No, the starter can not kill the battery. Have you hooked up a stereo or amp recently? The battery could be losing its charge and going bad or the alternator could be going out. Usually when the alternator starts going out the dome lights and head lights start getting dim. Batteries can be checked at your local Oreiley's or Autozone for free. They usually check them on the car while it is running. You can also get a hydrometer and check it yourself, to see if it is the battery.

[@ImRamro]

It is probably the starter going out. The solenoid that is mounted to the starter as (one unit) is probably going bad. These type of starters can give you problems for a year or two before they break completely. The easiest thing would be to clean the battery terminals and battery cables, a bad starter wire or starter overheating can cause this problem too. I am pretty sure it is the starter and AutoZone or Oreiley's can test the starter for you for free.

[@janetrowe186]

I'm not mechanic.i did help my ex yrs ago on cars.he wasn't much of teaching.now I'm single.i try to do my own fixing..found a nice mechanic.i have 96 blazer.plus 03 S10 truck.both not good vehicles.have done alot of work on both..batery is very weak on truck..

[@ImRamro]

@jdubb408 Do the lights or any other power item turn on? Sounds simple, but check the battery connections. Next if there is no power reaching the starter it could be the fusible link (thick wire, but not as thick as the battery cable main power wire to the starter). These tend to burn up if there is a short some where. Next I would check the ignition. If you remove the steering column and get to the wiring you can check to make sure the ignition is working. Sometimes it is just 1 bad wire.

[@johnlathrop123]

The 89 Suburban is an automatic. The last time it didn't start I did this... I moved the column shift selector into neutral and tried with no start...put it back into park and tried with no start...and then I pulled the shifter back towards me with it in part and then it started. I turned it off and was able to start about 3 more times. Once I got it home and parked in the right spot it would not start no matter what. Battery is strong based on headlights.

[@Flappykillmore]

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, the only noise it makes is a soft humming sound when I turn the key. (Fuel Pump Engaging) Then after trying over & over it eventually turns over & starts. Then it runs great from there! Done this for the past week, turned it on about 10 times, check engine light just came on today saying "Crank Shaft Sensor", but I was told the car would turn & run like sh*t. So we've bought a new starter & we're gonna put that in. What do you think? Our local mechanics said there is no way it's the sensor if it's running fine. If it was the crankshaft sensor then the car wouldn't turn over, but it'd crank. But it doesn't even do that so I assume it's the starter right? Replaced the Clutch switch, started 30 times consecutively, then failed later that night. So assume it was just a lucky part of the starter. Suggestions?

[@Trevorfaulk1]

i have found a brand new wire harness on a chevy/gmc part website brand new for 329.99 thanks for your help ill get back to you if have anymore issues that id need help with -trevor

[@ImRamro]

@BarrBarrBinks I don't know if I responded to you or not, sorry? If the starter is clicking, then most likely it is the solenoid on the starter that is going out. You probably have to replace the complete starter as a unit, but this should fix the problem. The ignition is sending a signal to the starter and that is the click you hear, so it is probably just a starter replacement, or shim the starter so the gear grabs the fly wheel.

[@ImRamro]

Try checking the big fuses and relays in the engine compartment first. If that does not work it may be the ignition. The radio and lights are separate from the dash lights and starter. You may want to engage the emergency brake and jiggle the ignition as you turn the key. The ignition sounds like it is on "accessory only" kinda like when you turn the key to the position where the radio plays and the car does not start. I hope this helps? Sorry I don't know much about the 300C.

[@lvltwentyseven]

On a 1998 Ford F-150 V6, the lights in the dashboard come on when I put the key in and turn it, and it makes the dinging noise it normally does when you put the key in. The truck will not start, and there is no click noise when I turn the key at any point. I don't know if that means anything. I have tried hitting the starter a little bit, as a suggestion that sometimes the starter gets stuck or something. I have tried to get a jump. The radio does not turn on. Still think starter. Don't know.

[@ImRamro]

I have checked out a few forums and some say to run a heavy wire from the engine block to the negative battery terminal and see if this starts the car. Have you used a spark tester to see if the plugs have spark? Some forums are saying the crank position sensor. Let me know if the plugs are firing and I will see what I can find out.

[@ILikePudding35]

when i start my car for the first time in the day, (cold) theres a nasty grinding noise that lasts like 1 or 2 seconds. i believe it is the starter spring that isint retracting fast enough ( its probbably gummed up) and its griding with the flywheel... if the car is hot, it wont happen. what other possibilities could there be? i drive a 2007 nissan sentra SE-R Spec V. Thank you!

[@ImRamro]

Sounds like it is your solenoid. The sound you hear is the solenoid getting power, but not energizing enough to spin the gear in the flywheel. It is the classic sound of the solenoid going out. A new starter will have a solenoid already attached, so replacing the starter should solve the problem. Oreiley's and Auto Zone will check the starter for free, but some stores can only check the starter once it has been removed.

[@MrBobsrevenge]

I have a old f150 86' i hooked up a new battery to it and it still wouldnt start not even with a jump it just clicks do you think that it might be a sollanoid or something else it was running like a champ a year ago its just been sitting

[@daviddowns7552]

my 2002 3.1 pontiac grand prix will not crank. not turn over. nothing. does this sound like a starter or ingition switch or ignition cylinder. i want to check it. i was thinking to check fuses& relays but the diagrams im finding on google are not real easy to read not marked well ect. whimsey images. i wish i had a good pontiac man to help me. the battery seems good. it has headlights and horn. everything. what should i try doing first. no silly answers please. i need my car to get back to work and see my drs. i have family to support. i would appreciate any good answers.

[@ImRamro]

If the car runs fine with the battery disconnected, then the alt is probably good. It sounds like you have a wire that is hot with the ignition off? Do you have a after market stereo or other electronics? The battery could be draining from a bulb staying on in the engine compartment or dash? I would turn off the car and check as many wires as you can to see if any are still hot? You can also remove the fuses one at a time and narrow it down? The fuse removal will tell you where to start looking?

[@goheat77]

I have an exytra bolt, its an unloader wire and everthing else you have there. ground, unloader wire, ignition wire, and big red wire. how do you dianose that one?

[@ImRamro]

Is the grinding sound coming from inside the car or under the car. If the sound is coming from outside the car, then it is one of three things. 1: flywheel missing teeth and the starter is grinding on the flywheel. 2: starter star gear not throwing or coming out far enough and grinding on the flywheel. 3: The starter needs to be shimmed so that the star gear will come out of the starter and engage fully with the flywheel. The starter may be loose or just needs a shim to line up properly.

[@mcbillygoat2413]

Sweet vid!

[@dalishus09]

Please answer?! I have a 99 Saturn Sl2 and it randomly doesn't start. I've had it for a year and it's done this maybe 20x tops. It's happening way more frequently now. For instance, I drive somewhere with no problems. Get out of the car, come back 10-20mins later and nothing. Lights and everything comes on but the car won't start. No noise, just nothing. I wait from 30 mins to several (5+) hrs and it starts like nothing is wrong. I don't have an alarm system on my car. Any suggestions?

[@strum4u]

Hello, and thanks for the informative video. There is one thing that I want to clarify, and here's my question: Let's say that a test light hooked to the ignition wire of the starter fails to light when the ignition key is turned on. You've stated that the problem would be with either the ignition switch or neutral safety switch. But what about the starter relay? How does one rule out the relay in this situation? I hear a relay clicking when I turn the key, but nothing from the starter.

[@Fatpop]

I have a 1995 camaro 3.4 and my starter clicks a couple times than starts but sometimes its starts right away ive had it like that for a few months but now it starts rough like its taking up so much power to start could it be the starter should I replace it?

[@ImRamro]

Thanks for watching and the comment. I have worked on all kinds of cars and I still need to watch KZbin videos to work problems out.

[@jonathansoucheck8722]

Help! I am having a problem with my 98 vw jetta. The problem has progressively gotten worse over like a year, but when I put key in to start and turn, lights on and stuff, but just doesn't attempt to crank. When it does attempt to crank, starts up no problem!I thought it may have been the starter solenoid, so replaced the starter...and still no dice. In fact, when it has started now with new starter it seems to make a sound like a belt is REALLY tight..but no shims came with so...suggestions?

[@rustyflores6555]

ok hi so I have a 71 Chevy c10 pretty old and the some of the wiring is new some is. it has a new carb starter is mostly new new fuel and water pump and new radiator. so we got it started and running and I've driven to for a good 3 weeks straight and it's been just fine no problems until these morning. so I went to start it after adjusting some things on my carb and it started itself just fine but I noticed smoke coming from under my dash I imedialty turned of the truck and looked under and there was a small flame coming off the connections to the ignition switch so I looked through after I disconnected there battery and saw that two of the wires melted together from the flame so I separated them and wrapped with electrical tape expecting to fix the problem. I hooked everything back and and the truck started but he starter wanting to keep going even while the engine was running and the flame came back so I shut it off and noticed it was just the wire leading to the starter that was causing the flame the connection was extremely hot and melted the electrical tape. why is this happening please helo

[@vaniarosado4695]

Hi, and thanks for your informative videos. My Toyota, usually very reliable, has started not cranking, making a 'want-to-start' initial noise and then a whirring sound when the key is turned. The battery test result was OK, according the technicians. To start, it requires being jump started but from then on, it is fine, starting first time every time. I noticed the negative battery cable was loose and had that tightened but the problem persists, only on starting it the first time round. Once jump started it runs fine, even if I turn the engine off and then on again. Any ideas?

[@carlosm45123]

starter solenoid could be getting stuck. could need a new one. def not an alternator or battery since you said it was ok.

[@ImRamro]

I agree with Cindy Veronica Munoz....The solenoid needs to be energized to engage. Maybe the solenoid is going out and needs that jump start to make it work properly? This problem is strange, but you can tap the starter with a wrench or something heavy and see if this works? On some cars when the solenoid starts going out, the car will start fine after an initial jump. Tapping the starter with a tool may be difficult, but if it works then the solenoid is probably the source. Good luck.

[@121chef]

I have a 95 Chevy Pickup...it seems that the starter stays engaged with the key in the on position. I changed the ignition cylinder first, because in the past, the truck would crank to start when the key was turned back to the accessory position. That didn't eliminate the constant crank. Replaced the starter and solenoid(bench test failed) but the condition remains the same. I'm guessing the Ignition Switch would be next, but would hate to go through that trouble for nothing. Any ideas? Thx

[@taylorjohnson3730]

My 2003 Corolla had been starting okay, but sometimes it would get stuck when I would turn the key. Yesterday it started fine, then all or a sudden wouldn't start at all (no clicking or nothing), but the radio and electric windows still work. Weird, right?

[@ImRamro]

You may have bad compression in 1 cylinder or more if the rings are wearing. Does your car use up a lot of oil? When the compression is bad oil seeps into the combustion chamber and the oil is a lot harder to burn than fuel. The car will have a hard time starting and run like crap for a few seconds until the oil leaves the cylinder. Usually the car will start fine when the car has just been running but after it sits for a while it will start hard again. Check the pugs and do a compression test?

[@jderossett78]

ok so i put new startrer and ignitin switch still nothing no roll start no start when i cross solenoid leads i cant get power to ign side of solenoid any ideas im super stumped. thanks

[@ImRamro]

@TheGreenPlague Thank you, but it has more to do with being that broke, lol. I guess I was forced to learn a little because I hate purchasing things I might be able to fix or do myself. Thank you for watching.