How to Diagnose A Parasitic Draw With Simple Tests. (Car Battery Dies Overnight)

[@RepairGeek]

Where to get full service information like wiring diagrams: bit.ly/3rZMLCi My Parasitic Draw testing requires 2 multimeters. Here are a couple options: Cheap Multimeter: amzn.to/3g4KfFC Higher-end Multimeter: amzn.to/3H7Q9lh My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

[@howardboyd7764]

This is by far, away the best, most simplistic non convoluted explanation of parasitic draw I've seen and I was under the impression ALL DATA was a $2500 a year period. Thank you very much.....

[@barnz008]

The use of two multimeters is genius. Guess I need to buy another and get to work. Thanks for the thorough how-to.

[@markw96789]

Awesome video. I appreciated your sharing your knowledge and experience. I have a friend that is dealing with a parasitic draw on her 2009 Acura TL 4 dr sedan. I am going to try and help her next week. She has had the car in a repair shop and spent money replacing her alternator, battery, a air conditioning switch and relay and her car still has problems with the battery draining overnight. I am hoping with the knowledge you provided in your video I can locate the problem and fix it for her. Thank You again

[@JerryAlbro]

Very well done. I deduced the same trick for checking the milliamp draw but the millivolt drop across the fuse body is brilliant. Thanks!

[@lenwhite9901]

Finally, someone who knows how to create a helpful video. Thanks. Funny comment. Sitting here watching a youtube on how to test a car circuit for a parasitic draw. She's sitting at the table drinking her tea. You say "this result shows there is a draw on the circuit that controls the radio, keyless entry and datalink connector." My wonderful wife asks, "What's a ding-a-ling connector?" Never a dull moment.

[@ontario-yota-1050]

Very helpful, My dads 2010 f-150 has had a parasitic draw haunting it for months now.

[@cruzfernandez4554]

I thank you for your time and the information you shared

[@halfSpinDoctor]

Love it - great video as always! My most recent repair on the Civic also involved digging in the engine compartment fuse box -- to replace a faulty ELD (electronic load detector).

[@RepairGeek]

Lol you jinxed me. You wanted honda repair videos. 2 weeks later I a call from my mother in law that her civic won't start...

[@halfSpinDoctor]

@@RepairGeek 😲

[@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics]

I really enjoy your videos. Well thought out content.

[@PeteyMcSavage]

Great tip on getting data

[@markm0000]

Instead of sneakily trying to swap the battery cable on the terminal just use a wire with alligator clips and hook it on the post and cable before removing it. The electricity will instantly switch to the wire. Then hook up the multimeter and remove the jumper wire. Reverse this procedure when you’re done.

[@aakudev]

Thanks, is 0.04 mA ok for Civic 2008 4 Door AT?

[@willdrivesu7914]

Wish I had watched this sooner, I have a vehicle with an aftermarket head unit, and been trying to figure out where I was losing power from. (It was not something I installed, it was already in the vehicle when I bought it) I wrongly assumed when I turned the car off that the unit was also shutting off, but apparently it does not do that and drains the battery significantly in just a day or two of not driving. (Parked it lastnight and just hooked the charger up to it and it was down to 70% just sitting over night) So the head unit drained 30% of my battery in 24 hours...

[@Glenn_123]

Really good video! Great job. The negative battery side for the amp meter I did not understand...Did you just put the meter in line with the negative terminal. Negative cable to meter - meter back to negative battery terminal? Thanks for a great video.

[@RepairGeek]

Exactly. So the meter goes in line between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. All the current drawn by the vehicle needs to go though the meter for it to be read. Most meters can only handle a maximum of 10 amps. Anything over that and you will blow the fuse in the meter which will need to be replaced.

[@jaras1969]

@@RepairGeek In other words: DON'T try cranking with the meter in place, or you will be sorry.

[@RepairGeek]

@@jaras1969 yeah don't turn the headlights on haha.

[@Glenn_123]

@@RepairGeek thank you very much for the clarification!!

[@Glenn_123]

@@jaras1969 very good tip and reminder! Thanks

[@richardb4022]

That site is at the library.. you can print them.

[@RepairGeek]

Not in Akron Ohio it's not. I've checked.

[@evaldas266]

Hey i have parasitic draw too on Ford Galaxy 2004 2.0 petrol but how can i test with 1 multimeter or buy another one? Because it s****s when thr battery dies after week.. I think it could be radio but if disconnect then how i will listen to music?;))

[@txfieros]

Awesome tips. Never had to deal with this, but good to know.

[@Fatboy.25]

Great video and info. Thanks

[@spiridondimaris465]

Good video good job

[@pgreenx]

What do you do about those larger square fuses and the relays?

[@RepairGeek]

Remove the clear lid.

[@RJLM330]

So need to do this on my 2001 suburban. This issue happens when it rains. My battery does not have posts like yours does. So when you take the red connector from meter to the grpost sounds like you do it carefully and before the battery lead is totally removed from the post. So my question is how do you do it on my battery with no posts like yours. Am I over thinking this.

[@RepairGeek]

Thread a bolt into the side post on the battery and attach the alligator clip to that.

[@makepartsUSA]

so if the customer wants to keep the RS, then that module went bad and need to be replaced? or is it possible it always drew current, but after time the battery is weaker and more susceptible to low charge conditions from the parasitic draw?

[@RepairGeek]

The module is junk. The RS needs replaced.

[@commandoo1]

i am confused how come fuse poles will show voltage ? they are on same line voltage at both end of fuse should be essentially zero .

[@RepairGeek]

You're measuring the voltage drop across the fuse. I measured 2 MV across the fuse terminals. 2MV is essentially zero but, not zero giving you direction... If current is not flowing the voltage drop is zero MV.

[@richg0404]

There is at least a SLIGHT voltage drop across all electrical components, including fuses and even plain old wires. In this case, there is a very small drop across the very small fuse which indicates that SOME current is flowing when there should be none.

[@AlexHernandez-xh8ei]

When I touch the terminals with the pins on my multimeter it shows me about 40 amps and a lot of things in the car start to turn on why?

[@westnwahs]

OBD sensor plugged in. Thanks dude, I'm an idiot!

[@milanraseta8]

So now what is the problem if that device works.. is it a bad ground??? You buy a new one?. How are going to your fix issue that you found now? Thanks

[@RepairGeek]

At that point you would need to isolate individual components. Like I said, probably would have unplugged the radio or tach if i didn't have an issue with the remote start. The driver door lock buttons stopped working on this car when the remote start went on the fritz. The door lock is also tied into the immobilizer. When the remote start was unplugged, the door locks started working correctly. So you need to pay attention to the vehicle like I said. You will have clues where to go when you find the right circuit.

[@mauricelong7024]

How about the hood?

[@z9ski690]

All data is available on online from many public libraries

[@RepairGeek]

Yep, it is. I know the public libraries in Akron Ohio it's not available. I've checked. You can borrow some Chilton and Hanyes manuals but they are useless for a problem like this.

[@gregp2204]

Hodge-podge of aftermarket BS-haha I love it

[@KLR-650]

What about the square type fuses?

[@RepairGeek]

Pop the cover off with a small screw driver.

[@KLR-650]

@@RepairGeek I have watched a ton of parasitic draw videos and not one person has tested the square type fuses. Also, they don't have to get on the passenger floor with half the body outside the truck and on the ground, twist ninety degrees, contort the arms up and back, , and try to read the meter at the same time. Don't forget the light. Still have not found my draw.

[@RepairGeek]

Buy a backlit meter, pull out the drivers seat if you need more room.

[@joeybrazda364]

I wish I saw this