I bought a barnd new 1976 C20 Camper special Silverado It's been all over the country and AK. I let it go 1994 196,000 miles Chang'd oil every 3K warm oil into garden sprayer and treated the entire truck. No rust on truck when I let it go. I look back today and realize that was a major mistake letting that truck go. Always learn in the skool of hard knocks!

No wonder manufacturers don’t bother doing any of this. Basically nothing for a tonne of effort.

Can I spray / soak my air filter instead?

are talking about putting a used engine in or a new one

Ur awesome bro thanks for your easy to understand video

Hey bro, i am a new subscriber and the reason why i chose to use this FR3 formula was after seeing a video from a channel called project farm, that guy is awesome and he tested the fr3, however, after seeing your video and the motor oil geek channel you guys are giving some strong info that makes me think about saving my money instead. Thanks for taking the time to create the videos.

Use rustoleum rusty metal primer before the paint.

Great video man! Great explanations. Great visuals by far. I knew but I didn't know all of that. I'm here because I'm doing a valve cover gasket change (and valve covers because Honda valve covers turn to dust around the spark plug holes) and a forum I was reading mentioned a valve adjustment "since you're in there" to fix cold start misfires (which I'm having). One thing led to another and your video was perfect!

EGR valve soot cleaning video on the 2.8 duramax please.

What additive is best for deleted diesels?

Sweet vid! Y’all you know of any shop who does this professionally in Arizona, Texas or the Tristate area

does the coating attract dirt and dust?

Great video Great job Thank you

EGR is spent combustion gases...nothing to stick here. Vapour is easily entrained in air and also won't stick to valves. It is indeed oil droplets/mist that we need to filter out. This video made me look into the 2020 Camaro ZL1. GM added an oil catch can after the first year because oil was puddling in the supercharger. It's highly engineered - more than some guy with a CNC or a chinese copycat - and is part number 12683284. Just pay attention to which way the PCV system flows, and don't let the catch can fill up!

Put UV in whatever fluids you can, then it's easy to find even the smallest leaks with a black light.

Do you see a difference in your fuel economy (better or worse)?

The battery should be easier to replaced

I’m not worried. I made my own out of a 16oz stainless steel water bottle and some brass fittings. Stuffed it with stainless steel scour pads and put a breather on the secondary vent. Also no egr and a gasoline engine. Mo powa baby

Excellent job.

Excellent! Thank you.

Dang, did you know that soap cleans things? And that the sun doesn't actually go down at night, but the Earth spins? What other breakthroughs can we share??

You did an excellent job explaining the subject and describing what is involved in head gasket failure. Keep it up !

J&L does offer a 3 oz extension to their catch can, if you have the room for it. I never got one because I check my levels regularly. I've used them for years, I check them every thousand miles. Forced induction applications make a lot more oil than NA, usually dumping about an ounce every thousand miles. My NA vehicles don't even make half that. The absolute worst I've ever seen was the Pentastar in my Jeep Wrangler, it made over 2 oz every thousand miles. I had to empty it every 500 miles. On their site J&L even says the Pentastar is the biggest oil producer they've ever seen. OK, so maybe the cans don't catch 100% of the oil, they still catch a lot more than nothing. Keep them under an ounce and there's no issue with the sloshing and sucking oil back in.

Any update on the iron content of the Archoil?

Can someone explain why you don't coat the exhaust, even if the coating would go away due to the heat? Wouldn't it be better to spray it and it going away instead of not coating it at all?

Invalid test. The cleaners cannot reach the intake valves.

*No Rust bullet?*

I'm glad I don't live up there. What a pain

This was excellent, thank you!

I would have liked you to see you add 2 stroke oil to this video because its designed to be in and burn in the combustion chamber and since its literally oil it should lubricate fantastically. Great video i learned a lot!!

Great video I was looking for

Carpro has a new coating called Dlight that has a lot of UV claims. Would love to see it tested as it specifies it’s for that

Great video. Thanks for sharing. New subscriber here

Alright everythings in except for the hub jehe

Why did you use the plastic chain guide vs. the all metal guides ???

I skipped removing the wheel speed sensor and now I’m waiting for a new one and am out $100

According to LSJ diesel engine owners do not change oil frequently enough. You may want to emphasize this point.

Nice. I was Lake Speed Jr sub before.

Will this also work well in a big rig truck?

What about hot shot? Looks to be a POS additive to add other deposits to oil.

Why not spray cleaner around the intake to eliminated the possibility of air leak first? Air leaks can do the same thing!

It looks like VHT has been discontinued but based on the SDS it looks like Duplicolor Rust Fix is the same thing (both are 1-3% formic acid).

Awesome. Thanks

Por 15 is supposed to be used over rusted metal , it has excellent bond then by itself .

guy with lift lectures people with no lift

This is good enough content that I'd almost expect to have to pay for it! Seriously, thanks. I do have a couple questions though. First, I've been spraying chain and bar oil, used motor oil, gear oil, etc under my vehicles for years with Graco airless paint sprayers. What is the viscosity of these lanolin products compared to paint or oil? If they're too thick to spray as is, can I heat them up and get them thin enough to be sprayed with the airless sprayer? Next, dirt. What I've done is spray a mostly clean undercarriage, then go drive on gravel/dirt. Then spray more, then go drive out in the country again. The dirt and oil builds up a coating that won't really wash off. If I didn't do that, the oil would wash off pretty quickly. I'm guessing the biggest difference with the lanolin products is because they're thicker, they wash off a lot less on their own, and won't soak into a light coating of existing dirt like oil, or if they will soak in, it'll take more time and product to do it that way? But, you showed exactly what I expected, coating over dirt that had stuck to previously applied lanolin continues to build up the coating more and more, further increasing washoff resistance.

I've had great success with a few of the products mentioned. How did you neutralize the acids and rinse all of the salt out of the rust? Some of your failure results could be from remaining solution on the test pieces.

Change your oil every 5000 miles change your oil seperator every 50000 miles and your engine will live forever. Your welcome.

So this was a XDP commercial or which is best to use? Serious question after I saw the guy that came up XDP comment.

great video very informative but im a little confused by the verdict. based on all the numbers it seems like power service has the best option for budget additive? not to mention up here in canada we have an antigel mix which goes on sale for the same price as regular formula every other week