How to diagnose a Pentair ic-20, ic-30, ic-40, and ic-60 salt cell

This video demonstrates how to run through diagnostic mode on a Pentair salt cell, and what everything means. If you have any questions please contact us through our website at: www.poolspecia...

[@tonyruble2370]

Craig I want to personally thank you for reaching out to me here in OKC to help troubleshoot my Salt Cell issues. You certainly don't get this type professionalism and willingness to help pool owners in need here locally. I applaud you my friend. Quick follow up. shortly after we spoke I ran those diagnostic test on the cell, mysteriously the "LOW" salt light changed from RED to GREEN, which normally would be a good thing but I have no confidence it will stay green. I think I will pursue changing the FLOW SWITCH as you recommended. Again, thanks for helping a complete stranger and going above the standard.

[@jjoser3104]

Craig, this is the first time I have trouble with my chlorinator, I would like to thank you for this great video. The first thing I got from the local pools services was $ 1100.00 charge for change Intellichlor I C 40 no advice to troubleshoot . Thank you so much I will look for the Salt cell and do it my self.

[@scottrussell2281]

Great instructional video. As a newer salt water pool owner, this was great for me. I just had to replace my IC40 cell, but I had no idea about the diagnostic capabilities of the existing cell. In my case, the circuit breaker on the main Pentair pool controller unit would not reset without replacing the unit, but it would have been great to be able to check the life of the cell as you demonstrated, over the past couple of years of operation. Thanks for your time and effort in making this video.

[@ginaiovine2947]

Thanks Craig. Great tutorial. Even though I’ve been working with these cells for over 25 years , I still can learn something new

[@ev6625]

Thank you so much for this!! You just saved us $1400! Replaced the flow switch for $20 and it’s working perfectly!! 😊

[@deependfrank]

Thank you Craig, always great to hear this info repeated. You are very easy to listen to.

[@ursulacorrado1178]

Thank you!!!! My flashing lights are off and I am praying it was just a child pushing buttons to cause it to be in low power mode!!!!! You are AWESOME!!!!!!

[@bobpissonme5059]

Good job. I had a goof ball come out and tell me I needed a new salt board. He didn't even run the diagnostics. I put in a new flow switch and that fixed it.

[@craigwooster6646]

Glad to hear!

[@ruthkjaer7203]

I have a brand new cell....salt level blinking green red....flow steady red..sanitizer output i put onto percent...opened pool 5 days ago...added 6 bags salt....has been doing this since opening...

[@lucasalanmartin]

Very informative. Thank you for posting

[@tintedkia]

Great video. Thank you!

[@guitartroy67]

Great video. Question, what if the the cell light alternates from green to no color at all. Mine sometimes will show green and then go off . Any ideas?

[@thefontsforfunhustleig3026]

Great vid!! What happens if both the Red lights stay on like you said but then the flow switch light stays red?

[@alejandrosantiago4596]

Thank you for helping us learn

[@Stevebrodie111]

Can anyone tell me if chlorine is still being produced when the “Inspect Cell” light is flashing green? The cell has just been cleaned and if it’s at its end of life this will be the 3rd Intellichlor in 7 years! So much for paying extra for what I thought was premium quality Pentair equipment. I’ve had problems with the heater since year 2 as well.

[@DjChrisChip]

Hi Craig, I have the ic20, and it has salt, and is not making alot of chlorine. Last measurement was .72- Any idea why it is doing this? I had it at 3 dots, 60% All chemicals are in balance from CYA- calcium, etc

[@stevenpburns]

You mentioned that after pressing the more button, if the low salt and cold water lights stay red "typically this indicates the flow switch needs to be replaced." Later, you say that both of those lights staying lit "is bad" (I believe you!). My flow light is green under normal operation. On performing the diagnostic, both of the low salt and cold water lights stay lit. The cell lifetime scale says 80% spent. Could this result indicated that the flow sensor is bad -- even though the flow light is green on normal operation?

[@SMILE-fg4no]

I have an IC40 and none of the lights come on when allowing flow through the cell. Breaker or defective cell? I saw another vid about changing a fuse but I checked where the fuse was supposedly located and it was not there.

[@davidbarnes8520]

Craig, have you ever seen where the "more" button does not increase when pressing it. I can get into the diagnostics, but cannot increase with the more button

[@josephrohland5604]

What does a flashing GREEN flow light indicate?

[@dannyboyd1299]

Excellent

[@jimdunleavy8649]

Chlorinator still powers on after pump is shut down. Any thoughts?

[@bmac1196]

Just had a new IC40 installed a week ago on our new pool. It was working fine for a week until yesterday when no lights were on and the reading on the app said 9900 PPM. I turned the pump OFF, unplugged the IC40 for about 5 min and plugged it back in. The lights came on with the pump and everything seems to be operational, but now the reading says 0 PPM. Can I reboot the IC40 to fix?

[@DJChasEttari]

What if the Flow light is solid red? I need a new flow switch? I have the IC40, thx

[@tlori300]

How do I turn on my salt system to begin the diagnostic?

[@KGE1246]

Hey there, I did everything plus cleaning my cell was very bad but still green light flashing on Cell, please help

[@stevek3270]

My cell is saying it is 60% used up, but the clean cell light is flashing. I just acid cleaned it, and it did have some build up, but after plugging it back in, within 5 minutes it started flashing again. Is cell dead, or maybe the phosphates?

[@KGE1246]

Same problem here please any help

[@BeckyCapuzzi]

I have an IC30. It is only 2 years old, and is my 4th one since 2018 (all failed due to a known issue with the flow switch). Opened our pool 2 months ago, and it seems every 2 weeks a light is failing. First the salt level indicator light no longer lights up. Then the output display % stopped working. Now the cell light no longer illuminates. The only light working on it is the Flow light (as of today). I have no idea if the unit is even working correctly (I'm guessing not). I tried the diagnostics mode but with no lights working, I have no idea. Pentair is telling me "too bad" - this has only been used for about 12 months since it was replaced. The lifespan should be much longer, no? Anything else I can do beside shell out another $1K for a new unit???

[@matthewburchette9524]

Craig i ran the diagnose on mine and all the lights are green but it says 100 percent used. My cell light is flashing. Is it end of its life or would changing flow sensor worth a shot?

[@LiveeyePhoto]

Great video. Glad you posted it

[@user-yz5il3lv9g]

Hey there, I had my cell set at 40% for most of the summer with no issues. Today, I looked at my system, and none of the percentage lights are on. I tapped more a few times and currently have the 80 and 100 lights on only. None of the previous lights are on. (20,40,60) I tried to push the down, but nothing changed. I still have the 80 and 100 both lit. Any thoughts?

[@oswaldocardenas2531]

El ic60 tres LED rojas encendidas cuál sería el diagnóstico, y puesta en funcionamiento

[@RICCEC75]

I cannot change my ic40 not output it won’t go down unless I hold the button it goes down then 5 seconds later it goes back up

[@the.trollgubbe2642]

It runs when pentair is in auto mode, but if I put pool in service mode it won power on ...

[@josephstigliano5383]

Graig, I have NO power indicator lights on my IC 30 Salt generator. Checked the 10 A fuse at the transformer ok, Checked the line 120 V, voltage to all breakers; all were OK. I live in S W Florida and use the pool year-round. Any suggestions?

[@4davebert]

This is where I’m at. Last year the flow switch issue, easily repaired and 80% of life left. This year worked for a while and now no lights at all.

[@79bnice]

So if the cold water indicator shows red, do we need to do anything?

[@jkmvenice]

the green cell light (IC20) will remain on for 10 to 15 seconds so I'm wondering what role the flow switch plays? Best I can determine 20% of cell is used and no calcium build up ever

[@thecool5718]

I have the AC code. I've replaced the power supply but it didn't work. What should u do?

[@craigwooster6646]

We reccomend you replace the cell.

[@scottlandb6579]

So if I run a diagnostic I get 60% used Solid red light stays lit at low salt and a solid green good cell light. I don’t want to add salt as client just had pool remodeled. Before that she had a leak. My hope is after a month or so (new remodel) we can add salt and cell is still operational. With these readings do you suppose cell is still good? - Thanks

[@edwardabraham1911]

The cell lights briefly flash when the system starts then nothing! Any ideas?

[@suzanneteson5367]

I have the same question as lizabellepapa. No lights at all except when I wiggle it and then only for a second. The green light inside the power box is on. Changed the fuse and the fuse holder. Same. No lights on the unit at all.

[@officerkrupke4966]

Time for a new cell.

[@finiscoronatopus6740]

I was expecting a "WOOOOO!" from the nature boy but I guess not XD

[@josephstigliano5383]

Graig, I have power indicator lights on my IC 30 Salt generator. Checked the 10 A fuse at the transformer ok, Checked the line 120 V, voltage to all breakers; all were OK. I live in S W Florida and use the pool year-round. Any suggestions?

[@REALTIMEFIXREALTIMEFIX]

Hi, I have an ic40 about 6 years old. Green Light flashing Inspect cell. I pulled cell and it had a little of build up. I cleaned it I found 2 pieces of dark thin metal about 1 inch crooked shaped. 1 was stuck in front of plates and 1 piece was inside the plates. Could this be peices of my old heater exchange? But the light still. Blocks after cleaning.?

[@ahhsgvr]

I have an IC40, what does it mean when it will only go on the 100% for 24 hours(like when you push more and less together) or if I push more or less, no lights on the chlorine percentage. It is still producing chlorine but I have no adjustment.

[@craigwooster6646]

When you push the more and less buttons simultaneously the cell is put into "boost mode" for 24 hours. This is the same as setting the output to 100%. If you can not set/change the output percentage, then something is wrong with the cell. It is possible it is the flow switch, but more than likely it is the cell.

[@ahhsgvr]

Thanks, I forgot to add that it leaks water through the keypad too . I assume this is some sort of failure that is allowing water through the keypad. You can actually see water between the LED and white cover. Not what I expected for a $1500 salt cell after 4 years

[@officerkrupke4966]

@@ahhsgvr four years is avg.

[@makermarc3942]

Thank you for this video. Very simple to follow. But of course i have a question... The check cell light on mine is flashing. Inspection revealed quite a bit of calcium buildup which I've cleaned using the recommended kit and steps. Unfortunately even after cleaning, the light continues to blink. I've gone through the diagnostic steps mentioned in your video. The cell is reporting 40% used.and the there are no red lights or issues with the temperature. Do you have any other suggestions?

[@amandagz5928]

What if the cell turns on for a second and shuts itself off?

[@lindasalamone5488]

Sanitizer lights still keep flashing after everything you ne thinned in your video Help ! I’m not getting any chlorine in my salt water pool

[@Griphook3D]

Hello I did a self diagnostics test and the low salt indicator goes to Steady red on low salt indicator? Pool temp reads correct 80% and life span reads at 20% Salt level is at 3400

[@KyleGirard-hs6vw]

Mine does exactly the same. Just the low salt indicator is red. Everything else is green. It is reading the temperature right and I replaced the flow switch. But the salt indicator stays red on diagnostics mode, but is green in the running mode. I can’t find anywhere what this error code correlates to.

[@jd8230]

I can not change the chlorine out put it shows 40%. Nothing happens when I try to press more or less

[@jamezangel2482]

I know this is late but you could be hooked to an automation panel where e writhing is controlled from the panel.

[@CR250RidR]

why is the pentair heater dripping?

[@trailrunnermike]

Craig, First, I live in the USVI on St. Thomas and it is impossible to find experts for almost everything here.People seem to pretend to have answers and skills as there are not many options. I am excited to find you video on this unit(IC-20 for my 14k gallon pool). I have one that is only 18 months old and at 60-80% worked very well the whole time). Now, even at 100% can not seem to keep the choline levels acceptable. I cleaned the unit as the manual instructs and it seemed better for a couple weeks but it clearly is not working well. I am going to follow your instructions and see if I can figure it out. Note: The sun here is full on most everyday. My pool is between 82-86 most everyday of the year. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Michael

[@officerkrupke4966]

The minimum you should use is an ic40. Using an ic20 would cause you to run it at near one hundred percent and run your filter pump continuously with that size pool. And as it ages, it will not keep up as you have found out.

[@mikeconforti6820]

@@officerkrupke4966 thank you! can you just change the ic-20 element to ic-40 or do you need to change the whole unit?

[@officerkrupke4966]

@@mikeconforti6820 The IC 40 swg will fit in same opening as ic20 and just plug it in. Pentair markets their units, such as the ic20 if it runs 24 hrs a day, and it is set to 100 percent, it will supply enough clorine for a 20000 gallon pool. I have an Ic 40 supplying my 10000 gal pool and have it set at 60 percent but only run my filter pump 6 1/2 hrs a day. Make sure your stabilizer level is at 70 to 80, as the sunlight will eat clorine rapidly.

[@NN-tk7uw]

Our IC60 (~3yrs old) shows green for flow and salt, however the bottom % LEDs are all off. Intellicenter is set to 80%. We just bought this house and are total newbies. Do we need to "activate" the cell through the control panel?

[@officerkrupke4966]

leds on cell should have four of five lit. Does it keep clorine levels up? If it does, just keep it until it wears out. They usually last three to five years . Gets expensive , but it makes maintaining pool chemistry a breeze.

[@AereForst]

Would’ve been nice if you focused your camera on the actual salt cell

[@GodisAlwaysLove]

Went to the oil store they gave me 5 bags to put in my 8900 gallon pool, but now my salt level is reading 8600ppm. All lights are green, but the salt level button is flashing green. On my phone it says it’s 8600ppm. So Morris I am taking my water to get tested to make sure. What could be the issue?

[@LeftyLeft69]

It could be a bad salt cell sensor

[@raulfernandez9111]

Sounds like you put too much salt in the pool. That's why salt level is flashing in green. You can drain some water out of the pool and put brand new water back in with no added salt. The salt level should be around 2800ppm - 4000ppm with 3400ppm being ideal.

[@lizabellepapa]

when I plug it the lights goes on then off.before it still lights on when we move the plug but recently it does not light on anymore.does it mean my salt cell is bad? I have changed the fuse.the green light is on inside the box.

[@nycupperes]

It’s probably still going on. “Cell” is only green when producing salt. The lower the percentage of salt you set it at, the less time the cell is solid green generating salt. It either produces salt or not. That’s how it works.

[@officerkrupke4966]

I would add liquid clorine to maintain levels until a new salt cell is purchased.

[@jamesishere6630]

i have 100% solid green all across and it wont change via panel /wireless remote, what is happening? Thank you

[@danbrown6529]

I have the same problem, mine is stuck on 100% all lights are green. If I press the buttons the power lights all flash green.

[@jamesishere6630]

@@danbrown6529 Any fix?

[@lindasalamone5488]

@@danbrown6529 how did you solve the problem same thing is happening with mine

[@user-pr8ei1kb5f]

Hi Craig, Can you switch a IC 20 to an IC15 (or an IC 40)? Pool size 13k?

[@noengerny]

Yes

[@officerkrupke4966]

@@noengerny Always switch up, never down. Minimum for 13k pool would be ic40

[@LA-zc9rg]

How big a unit for a 24000 gal pool?

[@lovejoy1230]

That is incorrect. I30 is more than enough for a 13,000 gallon pool

[@LA-zc9rg]

Running an IC40 and a 24-25k pool @ 40% variable speed 14 hrs. Chlorine stays a constant 4ppm.

[@victorwoody7713]

I did everything your video did, but my Flow light is solid red, while the Salt level like blinks green, at the same time the Low salt light is flashing red.

[@nineseven5one853]

It could be the sensors, also check the serial number it may be under warranty still

[@officerkrupke4966]

change the flow switch

[@50kal44]

What exactly does each mean, let’s say you run diagnostic and only low stays red? Or only cold water stays red? Or both red? I’ve seen quite a few pentair that say low even though salt is good and cell is clean, is this usually the temp sensor failing?

[@AereForst]

Download the manual for the meaning of flashing lights and general troubleshooting

[@kjsurvivor5711]

How can I call you plz…tia

[@TheJetbreaker]

These Pentair ICXX cells are absolute crap.

[@philipjc1]

Your focus is off, it is focusing on the Pentair heater.

[@rongbee]

Duh

[@4comix]

Please, for the love of God, don’t ever make another instruction video. That was the worst instruction video. I’ve ever watched bar none