How to DIY Install a Herringbone Tile Backsplash

Everyone loves a gorgeous herringbone tile backsplash but it can become quite expensive not only because it is more labor intensive but also because of the extra waste material from cutting all these tiles in so many different places. Not every tile installer is skilled enough to install a Herringbone pattern, it can be a bit more complex than traditional tile layouts due to the diagonal pattern. It's easy to mess up if you don't know a few essential tips and tricks to installing tile. So we have our Certified Tile installer, Andy, with us showing us exactly how you can DIY your own herringbone tile backsplash or tile shower, without breaking the remodeling bank.
Keep in mind that specific steps may vary depending on the type of tile, your surface, and other factors.
Materials You'll Need:
Long Rectangular tiles
Tile adhesive (We used Mastic)
Trowel
Tile spacers
Carpenter's Square
Level or Laser Level
Tile cutter and/ or wet saw
Notched trowel
Grout
Grout float
Sponge
Measuring tape
Pencil
Mortar mixing tools (bucket, mixing paddle)
Clean, dry cloth
Follow this pattern every step of the way:
Preparation:
Ensure your surface is clean, and dry.
Measure and mark the focal point of your backsplash. This will serve as your starting point for laying the herringbone pattern.
Cover floors and countertops to protect them from any dripping mortar or grout.
Check how level your countertops and cabinets are by using a laser level or by drawing a straight line on the wall. This will guarantee that your tile doesn't start to get lopsided due to a countertop being off level.
Dry Layout:
Lay out a few rows of tiles on a flat surface so that you can visualize the pattern and make any necessary adjustments. This step helps you plan how the tiles will fit at the edges and corners. Use a carpenter's square for the angle of the tiles.
Use a sharpie to draw the cutting lines on your tile. Mark the tiles also so that you don't get confused with the scrap vs. the real tile you will use.
Draw on the wall, where your trim piece will go. Make sure you check it with a level.
Applying Thin-Set Mortar/ Mastic:
Apply Mastic to a section of the wall and spread evenly in different directions at first to ensure that the area is fully covered, this will also make sure to get rid of any air bubbles.
Once you have sufficient coverage, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and create ridges in the Mastic, all going in one direction.
Press a tile into the mortar, aligning it with the centerline and using tile spacers to maintain uniform gaps between tiles.
Building the Herringbone Pattern:
Place the next tile at a 45-degree angle to the first tile, creating the herringbone pattern.
Use tile spacers to maintain consistent gaps between tiles. Adjust the tiles as needed to ensure they're properly aligned and level.
Check the level often to make sure you don't end up with a lopsided pattern.
Cutting Tiles:
As you reach the edges of the room, you'll likely need to cut tiles to fit. Measure and mark tiles that need cutting, and use a tile cutter or wet saw to make precise cuts.
Watch our video above on how to approach different tight cuts on your tile.
Completing the Installation:
Continue laying tiles in the herringbone pattern, working in small sections and applying mortar as needed.
Remember when you get to the corners to cut 1/8 of an inch off the tile before creating the bend on the wall. This will give the tile the illusion of having been bent in half.
Grouting:
Once the tiles are set and the mortar has cured (follow manufacturer's guidelines), remove the tile spacers.
Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Remember to add water very slowly, you want a thick consistency.
Use a grout float to apply grout diagonally across the tiles, pressing it into the gaps. Work in small sections.
Wipe off excess grout from the tile surfaces in an opposite direction from the tile line. For Herringbone go left to right and right to left, for subway tile pattern go in a downward X pattern.
Cleaning and Sealing:
After the grout has been applied, use a damp sponge to gently wipe away grout haze from the tile surfaces.
Use color matched silicone to finish your edges against the countertop and any window sills.
DIY Herringbone Tile Backsplash or shower is not as scary as it seems, it just needs careful planning and a little bit more time to install.
Remember, proper preparation, careful measurements, and attention to detail are essential for a successful herringbone tile installation.
Happy Remodeling!

[@Steveysosteezy]

quick tip, if you wipe the excess mud or glue off with your finger after each row you wont have to clean out the grout joints after.

[@Mojothepyrut]

And u can use a nail brush, not a knife

[@biffmcgraw5507]

Nice job on the herringbone. Don’t forget the hearing protection with that wet saw!

[@Mojothepyrut]

And glasses

[@fernandesrichemond830]

I'm a tile installer,can you help me to find a job please??

[@shanbananplants]

Why all the background music? It’s too loud and hard to hear when the guy is talking. Or have to turn the volume down and back up when he’s talking. Otherwise good video.

[@Mojothepyrut]

Wow USA outlet cover are great come off like that in uk there different z u only loosen as electric wires still connected

[@Mojothepyrut]

Grouter same u go same direction as u did float otherwise your dragging the joints and that takes grout out. ❤

[@rachelsmith3398]

Nice video! Kerf cuts (not curve cuts)

[@raenenava925]

Weet saw always better

[@GrimJaw]

Is this 1/8? Or 3/8 grout spacing?

[@supercakemom]

So what do you do if it’s not level? Do you line it up with the level line? Or how do you compensate the difference? Thanks!

[@grimmheart]

If your cabinets are not level, you would mark a "ledger line"; a line above the countertops that is level. You would lay your tile starting on this ledger line; it's a starting line which is level, and then work your way up. Then you would have to scribe the first row of tiles from your ledger line down to your countertops. So if there's a 1/4" difference (or greater), you're able to cut each tile individually over the difference and still keep a level pattern for the install.

[@thecollector77]

Mastic sucks too no one's uses that anymore. Dries up so fast I don't recommend that

[@nicolefuller7703]

If you don’t mind sharing, what color is your tile and where did you find it? Thank you

[@thecollector77]

Showing off with the notch trowel stuck 😅 to wall

[@JF-kb6bl]

What did you use to rub on thw edges of the tilea after each cut? Thanks!

[@feeblewrk5788]

Dressing stone. Home Depot sells them for around $10 Canadian, US probably $6

[@calegre1275]

Is it necessary to seal the grout after?

[@thecollector77]

No grout already comes with sealer especially if you go with the mapai ultra color plus PF it's a faster setting grout though so you have to work a little faster you can't just spread it and leave it un attended have to spread it and then tool it and wipe it on a 45 with a sponge. I'm a 10 year pro and it's my preferred brand. Lowes sells the product.

[@Mojothepyrut]

Shame we can't reply with pictures

[@Mojothepyrut]

Don't u use metric system in usa😊

[@marcopoulin1897]

We use both