How to do an Oil Change on a Classic Saab 900

[@thomasraywood679]

B202 has a 4.2 qt capacity. That extra 6.4 oz is gonna rent space in the oil filter. That's why 4 qts will get up to the Max line from jump. For filter removal, just slip a heavy rubber band on up toward the seal, wrap the filter in a larger enough plastic bag, and then pull that rubber band down around the top of it to secure. Never lose a drop again on this. Thanks for that Ford Focus tip.

[@markc.4883]

Good to see you're still out there!

[@boomerguy9935]

The purpose of using a torque wrench is to prevent stripping out the pan threads. Also, using a new aluminum crush washer helps prevent this, whether the original drain plug had one or not. I change the crush washer every time I change my oil. I've been using this procedure on all of my vehicles, American, German, Asian and Swedish since the 1960's with 100% success.

[@thomasraywood679]

Nope. Tighten it down till it feels right, then check to see if it holds. If it doesn't, another quarter turn at most. If a guy in a reputable Saab shop went at this bolt with a torque wrench he'd have to spring for lunch just to get the seasoned hands from laughing him to shame.

[@boomerguy9935]

@thomasraywood679 So, tell me exactly what is the purpose if a torque wrench? My master mechanic/technician who is factory trained by Honda and Nissan ALWAYS uses a torque wrench. Ever heard of torque-to-yield bolts which require multiple passes of increasing torque with a torque wrench. The SAAB 93 and 95 engines use these bolts and factory process. The "shade tree" mechanic practices are long gone. I've been wrenching on my own motor vehicles since the 1960's and I still go to my master mechanic for help.

[@thomasraywood679]

@@boomerguy9935 Yet another technician would be laughed to scorn for NOT using a torque wrench under a great many other circumstances. I'm not dumping on the value of the tool, and I really appreciate (as will others) the nuance you bring to the discussion. I stand by the idea that torquing down an oil pan bolt, however, is classic overkill. As you know, they're designed to have a certain amount of give, which elsewhere on an engine and at far more critical junctures is unheard of. I would also remind anyone that the use of bolts in engineering came into its own 150 years before the torque wrench was even invented.

[@philipmowbray8810]

Thanks for the tip with the oil filter ☺️

[@Jbrimbelibap]

My oil plug is seemingly impossible to remove, first oil change on my part I've actually even hurt my right pec a bit trying to unscrew this guy Fairly certain the garage guy used an impact gun to tighten it What can I do besides pumping it out ?

[@thomasraywood679]

Dude, not cool. Might not be the fault of anything but overheating. Aluminum is famous for marrying to other surfaces if it gets too hot. So, a couple things. One, tap the bolt with the pean of a hammer, lightly but repeatedly, and then try to break it loose. If that doesn't work, or at least if it were my car, I would tap the bolt in an entirely separate sense of the term. In other words, I would carefully drill a 'smallish' hole in it right through its dead center. (If you try too small of a bit it'll break off in there and leave you with more than twice the headache you started with.) Get that hole in there, and here comes the oil. After that, I would carefully expand the size of that hole using progressively larger bits. At some point, yes, the remaining wall of the bolt is going to become thin enough that when you try to break it loose it can't help but accommodate. Then you just need to poke a magnet around inside to clear any possible swarf ...plus a new oil plug. You may find it easier just to pull the whole oil pan, but that still leaves the bolt stuck where it's stuck. At least you'd be able to go at it from both sides with a penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, and tapping's not your cup of tea, at least you can find another oil pan. The cool thing about tapping is that you can use one of the bits designed to back bolts out that way while, at the same time, applying torque with a wrench.

[@Jbrimbelibap]

@thomasraywood679 Car didn't overheat since the last owner took it to the garage for a full motor rebuild, I just think that is was overtighten using a choc wrench (la péteuse) Did the oil change by pumping the oil out, went well, new filter of course Even my spark plugs were way overtightened, something insane. I work in industrial maintenance and even at my factory I don't see shit this tight everyday I've seen people use a torch to heat it up red hot which loosens it Also could just invest in a choc wrench of my own

[@thomasraywood679]

@@Jbrimbelibap Sounds like the shop said screw it to the idea of torque specifications, which is unconscionable, but your ingenuity overcame the challenge they laid down and I'm glad to hear it. A torch though I'd stay away from for two reasons. One, a steel bolt is going to have greater expansion properties than the aluminum housing within which it reposits, thus stressing the latter. Two, since the steel bolt will cool down more slowly than the aluminum, and thus constantly be transferring its heat into the latter, the temperature gradient remains about the same. In short, high heat will just tighten the gap between the two, not loosen it. It is true, however, that once everything cools down, the steel bolt will return roughly to its original size while the stressed aluminum probably will not, thus facilitating what you have in mind but only at the expense of the aluminum having been weakened.

[@brxkenhills4441]

fixed the rich condition?

[@jamesgregory6903]

Yes, it was the strangest thing. The remanufactured MAF I bought just died out of no where. Long story short, I got a new remanufactured MAF and the engine runs great.

[@thomasraywood679]

@@jamesgregory6903 They muffed ... not be good at maf.

[@DrRock2009]

Don’t put the car on ramps: you’ll be leaving oil in the sump 🤷‍♂️

[@thomasraywood679]

or put it on four ...or two at a downhill angle :)