How to Drill a drainage hole in your Midea U- Shape fan :) Honest²

The reason for this drainage hole is... I seen water pooling at the bottom of my Midea U-shape Fan! I asked questions on a Facebook Usergroup about WHERE IS THE DRAINAGE HOLE??? I never really got an answer? Some said it supposed to fill with water to facilitate better cooling??? While searching for an answer I seen a post of a dude who was getting respiratory problems from his U-Shape Fan? He took footage of some FUNK growing on the bottom of the fan!!! WTF!? So I opened up my AC & saw a little bit of funk (FB dude lived in a high humidity area, Im in SoCal) Well with that bit of funk & not really getting a proper answer... I DRILLED IT MYSELF! Happy to say my Midea U-Shape AC now has a proper drainge hole :) Honest²
Here is the Original Facebook Funk Video: Warning it's Funky!!! Do not eat before viewing @_@
/ 10216714768437991
UPDATE: 2 Years later vid :) • Midea U-Shape Fan (( D...
#Midea #AirConditioner #DrainageHole

[@juliotamu7484]

Drilled 3/16" hole today in right corner w/o removing screws on AC. Was careful to not penetrate more than 1/8". Will increase to 3/8 or 1/2" later. Lots of water coming out. Posted this earlier on another Honest Mike's posts: I was going to drill/punch a drain hole anyway before seeing your video. In my recently installed Midea 8000 Btuh unit, the water always overflows, runs down the supporting bracket, onto the brick ledge and down the wall. Drilling a hole will allow the water to miss the ledge and go directly on the ground. And I believe if the unit was designed to splash water on the coil to improve efficiency as stated, its a stupid idea as the same increase could have been done by other means like increasing coil size (slight increase in price). By the way, the eer on window ac's is much inferior to central and ductless ac's, none of which use a slinger ring to splash water. Lastly, I worked as an energy conservation engineer, have three engineering degrees, one a Masters in Mechanical Engineering with a specialization in HVAC/energy conservation. I'll drill the hole, and may meter the energy used with drain and with hole plugged as I have the equipment to monitor energy consumption over several months continuously and record it. And maybe I wouldn't do it if the water remained pure, which it won't. The Midea will be replaced with a more efficient ductless unit in the future.

[@juliotamu7484]

Enlarged hole to about 3/8". One drop every 1/2 second but noticed another hole in bottom of 8k Midea 1" from window where 1 drop/sec is dripping on wood window frame and then onto brick ledge (not acceptable). Also water is dripping from left side of ac near window due to condensation from inadequate insulation. Expect shortcomings from a China made ac.

[@TheOGstriker]

Hey I just got the same unit but it's a 6000btu, I had a 5k diff brand unit that was dieing in me, I grabbed this midea for 100$ new in the box from someone 2nd hand who didn't need it. Legit opened it all my self. I noticed the water is splashing on the condenser in the back of the unit outside. It's set to the 3 to 4 degree angle it calls for. It's causing a lot of racket and seems ti be slowing the fan. If I tip it forward some the racket stops on the fan but there is a lot of water inside the unit. What should I do?? Should I do the drain hole. It says it doesn't need one tho. I don't Wana mess it up. I'm a car technician, and a pc repair specialist. I'm more then knowledgeable to do it hands on, but will it mess uo my unit in the long run, I seen u said you can test it over time and it's been about a month, please let me know, thank you.

[@juliotamu7484]

Mine was also making a lot of noise from the fan blade hitting the water. This noise stopped after I drilled the hole. While I got away with drilling a hole w/o taking the side panel off, I would take the side panel off before drilling the hole so you can tell how close you are to the refrigerant lines. On mine, after summer I'll remove the side panel and see if I can use a Greenlee punch to enlarge to hole slightly with a smooth clean cut (my hole is probably only 5/16" now as I didn't punch the bit in all the way for fear of hitting freon lines). Lastly, I will not test the unit for energy consumption as I've gotten lazy. I used to have a multi channel system installed for all circuits in my house but removed it several years ago. Take off side panel before drilling.@@TheOGstriker

[@fdeguilla]

Thanks for the video. I remember doing this to a window unit years ago because it was draining water inside, before someone say something about the AC needed to be installed angled towards the outside, in my case it wasn’t possible, the best I can do was level. As far as preventing mold growth on the evaporator, (and the inside part of the AC, blower fan and cavity) rather than just turn off the AC after use, I would leave it on just the fan mode for at least a couple of hours to dry it up before shutting it down, been doing this for a couple of years now and it’s keeping my wall units mold free.

[@Funky4me21]

With the phone app it is somewhat easy to schedule the Fan Mode for 2 hours when the AC is scheduled to be off anyway.😊

[@magma3525]

I just called the company and they told me that we can drill a drain hole on it, no problem. If a licensed technician does it, the warranty won't be void. I called them again to confirm this with another customer support representative.

[@laserfloyd]

Glad I looked this up. It's super humid here in the summer and the unit sounds like it's gurgling nonstop. It works fine but I want it to drip vs evaporate/overflow.

[@jetjazz05]

I live in Florida, my current window unit pulls a gallon of water a day. I made my own drainage port on the current old fashioned window unit and even at 1/4" I need to check it weekly to keep the gunk from filling it in. I'll have to do the same for this unit as well, I really don't want to risk having water run down the siding or worse have it come into the house.

[@TheNilesD]

I haven't even had my units for a month yet, and they already started to stink during MINIMAL use. Used your videos to drain and clean all three units (a 12000 and 2 8000s). All three still work like a charm. It was 94 over the weekend outside, but still delightfully cool at 70 inside my 1400 sq ft apartment.

[@kevinwilkins7031]

GG numb nuts you just screwed up the AC unit if you drilled a hole in it haha don’t you think if it needed one it would have one. Slowmo

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

Rain water is part of the problem I have found. It seems to collect a bunch for me. I'm in a dryer climate though.

[@wjford1]

Well, after sleeping on this issue a few days, I've changed course. The current plan involves drilling a 1/2 inch or so hole in the left side of the bottom facing the unit from outside. On my unit there is room behind the coil while still drilling in the deepest part of the pan. I'll keep the hole filled with a rubber plug until the water begins to look murky, when I'll remove the top panel and plug and flush the area with a low pressure garden hose, including the right side of the pan as possible. The top panel is more easily removed now that it is held in place only by the top 3 screws. I concluded that I don't care if the water splashes around the inside of the unit as designed as long as it doesn't turn dark and moldy. YMMV.

[@blkdog40]

There are a lot of good/interesting arguments for and against drilling a drain hole. I got the unit a couple months ago and just noticed a good amount of water and gunk inside. Im thinking about drilling a hole, draining and cleaning periodically, and plugging with a stopper. Thanks for the video, i was going crazy looking for the drain hole.

[@jetjazz05]

I live in Florida, my current window unit pulls a gallon of water a DAY from the air, for me I'm afraid it's not about pros and cons but about not turning my house into a swimming pool lol.

[@ckmoore101]

No, there are arguments for it, (wrong), and those against it, who are right. Including the manufacturer. The reason older units have a drain hole, is because they didnt utilize the fan in this way, so it was proper to drain completely from the bottom. What, do you think manufactures just "forgot" that AC units can drain??

[@diro6232]

I bought my 12,000 btu Midea unit last year and it seems to drain just fine. Since mine faces out towards my carport i have implemented a plastic pan underneath to catch the water...and I'd say it accumulates approximately a gallon and a half a day! Its been pretty steamy hot here in my area of Florida lately.😮 I never needed to drill any holes for drainage, I think if it's tilted at an appropriate angle towards outside, i think it should drain just fine on its own...just my experience anyway.

[@bobdroidsky225]

Is yours a MAW12_V1_QWT or V2? -- look at the model number.

[@skip741x3]

@@bobdroidsky225 you mean U2.. I have the latest one ..the old ones have a V and the new ones have a U un the model number.. also the new ones have a drain and touch buttons vs no drain and push buttons on the old units

[@bobdroidsky225]

@@skip741x3 Good info!

[@davidhardy6557]

I bought a Midea last year. At the end of the summer, I took it out of the window and in the process, a lot of water started draining out, so I figured a drain hole was either covered, plugged or not there to begin with. I'm looking to reinstall it this year and looking at it, it seems it didn't have adequate holes for draining and I then found this video which confirms my suspicions. Thanks for putting this together!

[@turbospeed08]

Those midea units are not supposed to have drain holes. Read the manual the came with your unit

[@davidhardy6557]

If they're not supposed to have drain holes, I suggest nobody buy one as they are destined for failure. I've worked as an aircraft mechanic for a major airline for the past 20 years. One of the many things we do when we inspect an airplane is to look for corrosion. That's especially necessary at an airport that is right next to the ocean and is exposed to the salt water "mist" that comes from it. .............I removed my air conditioner after one summer as I usually do each year and I could not beleive the amount of water that was still in the bottom and the amount of corrosion that was there. .............The copper tubes carrying the coolant pass through steel brackets that supports them...............If kept dry, this would probably last for ever but put in a situation where it's constantly exposed to water because of not having properly located drain holes. (Which should be at the lowest point, in other words the back of the unit) will set up dissimilar metal corrosion. I could not beleive the amount of corrosion that was present on the brackets where the tubes passed through them. If left unchecked, it might not eat away at the copper, but it would loosen up the steel's grip on the tube, allowing the tubes to vibrate. If corrosion doesn't destroy the tubes, vibration will. They should have used a better quality steel, maybe stainless steel at the low points of this air conditioner. @@turbospeed08

[@socrates2706]

@@turbospeed08 I think the manual may have been written for Denver. I would drill a hole if you don’t have a newer model with the removable plug. Drain it once a day in a humid climate and replug it.

[@skip741x3]

@@turbospeed08 Actually, the newest models have now a 3/4" drain hole in the location that he drilled..its in the right rear side when view from the back...these are Notorious for having mold issues... I cannot see why anyone would want stangnant water building up in these... the drain is needed

[@erikschlosser2552]

All the "there's supposed be water people" have clearly never cleaned an ac after a single summer 🤣 I'd rather a slightly less efficient unit than a mold factory that blows into my home

[@user-sf9mh1ms4q]

Water helps with the power/efficiency of the unit so it was designed that way. Holes are only for humid countries, so airconditioners sold in humid countries are built/designed with holes. After a few years of use, occational maintenance/cleaning is also required to help with the efficiency. Atleast now, you have the option to plug the hole and open it in the winter. The only problem I see is the bare metal from drilling will get rusted thru time.

[@canninghe61]

Thank you, OP, I got a Insignia 8000 U-shaped AC, a Modes clone, a drain hole is a must IMHO, i just drilled a drain hole yesterday, the AC is quieter and no effect on efficency.

[@coreymccarty1094]

Drilled mine out just now because it was leaking onto my sill and rotting it out. And yes.. it’s tilted properly. There’s over an inch of water sitting in the bottom of this unit! All the time. It’s fine to splash your water .. but not if there’s dank water sitting. There was an unidentifiable gelatinous fluid coming out of the hole I drilled. Lots of mold as well. If you are allergic to mold I would avoid this unit!

[@rs4425]

Thank you for describing my situation, exactly.

[@dallasryan1485]

I called the Midea company and learned that there is not supposed to be a drain hole. They told me the water that collects is thrown onto the compressor to help keep it cool. My AC unit is new, so there is no gunk growing in the water yet. I ordered some Nu-Calgon 4296-60 Pan-Treat Scum Tablets that I will use to keep the scum under control.

[@bogieman101]

I have only had my Midea 2 weeks and in a room not used often. Ran it a total of maybe 16 hours. That was a week ago, and there is still water standing in the back of the unit. No way that is a good thing, and rust and gunk will be on the way. Drain hole for me, but undecided if I will plug hole while using.

[@jetjazz05]

I live in Florida, my 5,000 btu GE model pulls a gallon of water out of the air a DAY... I don't know where that water will go if there's no way to drain it, so unfortunately I'm gonna need to have a drain hole. Absolutely splashing water on the condenser will make it transfer heat better, but I don't want water pouring into my house or down the wall and rotting my window out.

[@socrates2706]

My recently purchased unit has a blue plug in the rear corner that is removable so you can drain it for storage. You can remove it permanently if you wish. I plan to remove the plug and drain it once a day.

[@wolf.alliance]

​@jetjazz05 OMG that's the problem I'm having and everyone thinks I'm insane or installing my AC inorrectly. It doesn't have a proper drain hole so it's dripping out of a different spot and into my window.

[@tbob2224]

@@socrates2706 Where it goes is down the side of the building or inside of the wall due to the very poor location of the overflow drain. I had one dripping down the siding and the other pooled up and got into the wall - had to remove some drywall and dry it - luckily I caught it early so no mold growth but it ruined the window casing. Both are tilted downward to the outside very well (nearly a full bubble worth on the level) so this should not happen. The newer Midea's come with a drain plug so I just removed that on one but the other I did have to drill a hole to allow it to drain. If the overflow drain was in a better location this wouldn't be an issue - or if it included a hose for the overflow drain. We have had very high humidity at 90f+ over the last week or so.

[@justinmclean9275]

Mine has two holes near the middle that I just realized were dripping into the sill, soaking everything in the wall and leaking into the basement. They don't look like drain holes, but they are certainly draining the unit. Hoping I don't have to tear the wall apart.

[@TwoOLDTexans]

Thank you for the video on this. Our Midea U-Shaped AC is being taken out as I type. It stopped blowing air so I looked in the front with a flashlight and it's FILLED with MOLD. This can't be fixed so it's going to the dump. We happen to have another that my husband planned to put in the 3rd bedroom so he's going to use it in our room. He WILL drill a hole as you demonstrated in another video I found. BTW, we live VERY to the Texas Gulf Coast (think DEEP south Texas, farthest tip of Texas.....so we are extremely humid here year round. Again....thank you.

[@parkernickelson199]

I live in houston and have had mine.about 2 months the fan has gotten slower and.slower is that what happened with you?

[@TwoOLDTexans]

@@parkernickelson199 Yes. I fixed my new AC by drilling a hole outside so water could drain but you can barely drill in or it'll hit a coil. I also hit the inside with CLOROX TILEX once a month, now it works fine doing all that.

[@terricorbin3513]

Do this No drill method, Turn your AC unit off and unplug it. Get a 7 by 2 inch strip or piece of T-shirt material and a wire twist-tie or a small piece of wire. Go outside and stick 2 to 3 inches of the T-shirt material through the lowest vent possible towards the back-end of either side of the AC unit, just enough that it is soaking up some water from the bottom of the AC unit leave the remaining material hanging down towards the ground. Take the twist-tie or a small piece of wire and attach the material to a vent slot so that it won't fall out This will create a siphon for the water to run out instead of into your house. You are done. Takes less than 5 minutes and you still have water in the bottom so that it works properly. You may also need to attach one to the other side of the air conditioner unit depending on how much water is going into your home you could even add more if needed. Hope this helps.

[@mn-mh6uy]

Won't the T-Shirt Material get moldy?

[@conteh4447]

what's a vent slot?

[@terricorbin3513]

@@mn-mh6uy No the small piece of fabric always drys when the AC is off and doesn't mold.

[@terricorbin3513]

@@conteh4447 The space between each vent louver

[@Crunchifyable2]

On the newer ones they have an open hole in the middle (drips on your window frame) and a drain plug in the exact spot you did yours. I think they listened to you, even though theres a sticker saying only to remove it for cleaning transport storage etc

[@bobdroidsky225]

You must have have the Version 2.0. The drilling of the V1 units has been going around for years!

[@skytrip5273]

Mine came with a rubber drain plug, but they say only to drain it when putting it away at the end of the season. They say it slings the water up, and is supposed to make it more efficient. I may pull it if I get mold growing though.

[@bobdroidsky225]

What's your model version? the V2?

[@skytrip5273]

@@bobdroidsky225 Not sure. It's a 1200 btu though.juat bought it a couple months ago

[@chuckger1625]

@@skytrip5273 Look on the box or look on the unit itself for the number

[@leatherchopper]

Thank you very much, I knew to drill a hole but had no idea where it would be safe.

[@erichardy1988]

I just bought one of these things, and I have the same drainage issue, you don’t have to spray bleach on the outside, though there’s no point the outside is completely separate from the indoor unit. The indoor unit is its own unit there’s no way mold from the outside can get inside.

[@cilismoniker7322]

If you drill, no more warranty. For the fist 15 months, All you need is your drivers license, a fridge magnet and a length of paper-towel or a strip of gauze. Use the license to tuck the absorbent material in between the rear cover and the coils. Drape the other end down. Gravity+capularly action. Magnet will hold it in place against the wind. This way, you wont void your warranty in first year of ownership. To keep it not nasty, I'd recommend simple green foaming coil cleaner. Followed up with concrobium cold mist on the inside part to prevent smelly molds.

[@takchan4874]

It had a lot of water inside the air conditioner. I turned it off last night. I came out to check out the water. There wasn’t any water left. I don’t think it need to drill the holes. By the way, my portable air conditioner doesn’t need to drain water. It need the water to cool the coil.

[@user-nl2yq8rt6q]

We just drilled two holes and now it is draining GREAT!!! It WAS not draining so bad water was filling and the fan was splashing I water hot the top.

[@user-nl2yq8rt6q]

Oops, meant to type, water was splashing out of the top of the unit

[@georgebarker2373]

I vote for the drain hole - I found this post after I drilled a few 5/16 holes in my 8000 BTU unit at the low points in the pan (stay away from the copper lines!) , it was making a serious racket due to the water in the pan getting blown around by the fan even though I followed the Midea directions for the pitch of the unit to drain properly. I actually thought it was an electrical issue due to the fan speed changing but turned out the water was affecting the outside fan . Holes drained the water and now noise is OK. unit works fine as well. I did not see any drain holes built into the unit, there is some type of metal boss in the pan but it looks like something they use for the manufacturing on the unit and not a drain.

[@HonestMike]

Smart move George... Crazy how many people defend the slime :P Honest²

[@garretts91]

@@johnz8886 Ehh, something your not considering. A clean condenser coil.... I'll give you my example. I have an 8k LG window ac. Had it for about 4 years. I live in New England with humid summers. First few years the condenser coil would completely plug up halfway through the summer with crap from the water being slung onto it. The stuff is like concrete and trying to remove it totally sucks. At that point the unit would barely cool the bedroom I have it in. Every year I'd go through the same BS until I decided to drill a hole, not on the bottom but on the back edge. The hole is raised ever so slightly off the bottom pan. The result? The condenser coil now stays dry and clean and the refrigerant lines stay submerged under a very thin layer of water, helping with cooling. People in humid climates really get screwed with the slinger ring. The water never has time to evaporate and just causes problems. I'd bet a clean flowing condenser coil is more efficient than one that's plugged up with muck from the slinger ring.

[@gregnielsen1645]

@@johnz8886 So what is the maintenance Oh wise one

[@lyndacrockett2863]

The manufacturer states that there is an alarm and if the unit fills up with too much water an alarm sound will happen followed by the unit completely shutting off. So yes the unit can flood and make it stop working. Also in Florida you cannot allow all that water to sit in the unit or you will breathe in mold.

[@Orochimarussy]

Mine just started leaking inside of my house pretty bad onto my carpet. I've had the unit for almost a year. Was working like a dream before that. How frustrating.

[@HonestMike]

Hey I just saw your post on FB! Go drill that AC Carefully :) Honest²

[@Orochimarussy]

@@HonestMike what kind of bit would I need?

[@lyndacrockett2863]

That's why I'm on here reading this I'm getting ready to buy four of these units and I don't want maintenance issues in all of my bedrooms. As far as I'm concerned all this stuff is on the guy pile. I think I'm going to buy these units and drill the hole before I install them in the windows I live in Florida

[@tracyk3567]

I have the 5000 btu version with no drain plug. This is a definite design flaw. The humidity inside my home is 10% more than it is outside. Air conditioners are also supposed to dehumidify or what’s the point? Everything gets all clammy and damp otherwise.

[@martinmaddox5315]

Hey, Madea, how about putting a drain plug in your unit? I’ll wait to purchase when new drain plug is listed in description!

[@socrates2706]

The new ones have a plug.

[@pmaint1]

​@@socrates2706Mine is brand new installed it yesterday. It doesn't have a plug.

[@socrates2706]

@@pmaint1 Maybe it’s specific to BTUs and/or date of manufacture. Mine is 12,000 BTUs from Costco made 12/23.

[@skip741x3]

@@pmaint1 Mine are new from home depot, bought about a week ago.. latest models have the drain hole ,its 3/4" in diameter on the rear right if view from behind...new models have touch sensitive buttons , the old models had push buttons... latest models have a U in the model number , the old ones had a V... if it doesnt have a plug, its likely just old stock...

[@voldo492002]

Just the video I was looking for 👍🏻 Thank you!

[@johntran9985]

Regardless of the warranty, is it recommended to drill holes or not to drain the water? It makes no sense of leaving the water standing in the pan when leaving the machine turned off. Please advise.

[@njami01]

Just pulled mine out from the window. Its full of water and the bottom right side from the back has started to rust around the condensor....wish I had just drilled a hole.

[@thisoldrv]

Midea must make a lot of money on this video! I, like others, managed to destroy my $600 AC doing this. If you're going to do this make sure you open the housing like he did. Make the hole on only one side, the side with more clearance.

[@WPM_in_ATL]

After looking at the TCL website about this issue, the Official Chinese Party Line is that _there are NO holes for drainage._ The idea is that there is a ring around the condenser fan that is supposed to splash water onto the condenser coil, increasing its efficiency. My units (4 of the 5000 BTU variety) constantly generate mold when in use. Every season I pull them apart and use commercial chemicals made for the trade. I have also found that using Clorox foaming bathroom cleaner helps to clean the unit off. Me? I'll lose a few efficiency points and drill the holes when I take the units out of the windows in the fall... _removing the guts completely._

[@CorvetteCoonass]

I keep my unit running on auto 24/7 and i tilted the angle down a bit more than most people. So i have no issues with water collecting in my unit.

[@zenderfall]

There’s two ways to go with this: drill or no drill. The mfgr made the unit with no drilling in mind, so the fans slush water around to cool parts of the unit. However, in some parts of the world with high humidity (everywhere) there’s just too much water that accumulates and bad things can happen, like mosquitoes, mold, rust. Etc. either method has its advantages, and disadvantages, unfortunately.

[@tjrick]

I find that it cools a lot less with the hole therefore the unit is turned longer and more water drips

[@RobertBeardsley-tb5cb]

But... Who the hell wants to hear that shit, while trying to sleep? Chinese made JUNK

[@xdarthpool6463]

What if I live in Phoenix, where it gets to 110 outside regularly for like 6 months with little rain. Any water will dry out, right? I'm getting the musty smell and I can't figure out what's wrong with this sh"t.

[@socrates2706]

You can have both. Use a plug for the hole and pull the plug to drain it each day.

[@joshuabirdwell5129]

Where does the water runoff come from and exited from inside of the house. I'm having issues with it dripping on my window sill

[@HonestMike]

I have some plants below so that's where mine drains too :) Honest²

[@bibo3373]

Mine has condensation forming underneath the unit to the right - when looking from the rear. My unit built in 2022 has a drain hole and lots of water comes out - 18 quarts per day. I like the unit but the condensation underneath and over the sill is a hard problem for me to solve.

[@jetjazz05]

@@bibo3373 Yup. I live in Florida, just bought one of these, have seen pictures of sweat forming under the unit... my plan is to cover it with a sheet of some kind of insulating foam and hope that'll stop the cold metal from causing condensate. Also going to have to drill a nice big drain hole... kind of a bummer they didn't consider any of this when the unit was made.

[@gmd1417]

@Honest Mike -It has been 18 months since you posted this video on drilling a drainage hole. How is the air conditioner performing? Any negative affects from drilling the hole?

[@woohunter1]

Yeah, I’d like to know too.

[@HonestMike]

It still jamming and no rust... The only negative is from peeps who say Don't do it!!! Seem to struck a nerve with HAVC crowd @_@ hm²

[@coreymccarty1094]

@@HonestMike ... this seriously a health and safety issue. My unit was disgusting.

[@davidoliver6597]

Just so you all know... even a/c's with a drain have mold problems. If it's bad enough, they all need cleaning. I had a GE window a/c from the 90's with mold growing on the Styrofoam on the air outlets inside (where your louvers are). Like I said, they ALL get mouldy/mildewy. I had to clean mine every 2 years.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

​@Paul Alvarez evaporation causes a significant temperature change.

[@ricerintegra2660]

I drilled mine on the right side. All older A/C units I have been around have drain holes. Even the main wall A/C (Comfort-Aire BG-121P) that came with my house has 2 drain holes and has been running perfectly fine.

[@bobdroidsky225]

My first a/c of this model corroded in 2 years, 1 inch off the base despite me using professional cleaning supplies for a/c. Got a second one, and I'm looking at it collecting water. I have drilled a hole in another Midea model already because the water was building up and making a clinking sound when splashed by the fan against the fins. Why doesn't this company make a drain hole from the factory?!😕

[@bobdroidsky225]

Just done it. But I pried the side panel quite wide and drilled from the inside. Lo and behold a bunch of water and crud came rushing out, and the a/c is a week old. Use quality bits and don't nick the copper tubing!

[@onlyme8870]

I add pool shock to that area to sanitize it. I too before finding f this video found a low spot and drilled a hole as rhe water would backup into the front area and noticed mildew growth. But glad diy is on video.

[@MarkD198817]

I got to agree with the rust issues, I drill holes in all my ac units if they do not offer a drain plug. Shame on manufacturers ! There is no difference in efficiency, I tested with my kill a watt meter and draws the same amount of energy and runs like a champ. I done this to my 2 U Shape 12K midea's & my 14K LG Dual inverter Ac unit. I had to replace a LG unit it that rusted out in 3 years due to rust it fell apart. I also think its done on purpose so the units do not last as long and rust out so u can buy a new one. Welcome to marketing ! Drill the holes folks believe me and also runs better, takes out all the damn humidity. The unit will still cool off the condenser with air. Hope this helps......

[@HonestMike]

THANKS MY BROTHER!!! I tested my AC & had a 1º difference. So I drilled it... collected 3 cups of (funk) water. Ran it / Tested it dry. Felt like a dork poring back 3 cups of water to retest but had to be done. All I did was got out another bug! Hahahahaha Let the non believers breath in the funk @_@ Honest²

[@mattolsson8816]

Interesting, I am struggling with this 8000BTU unit keeping humidity under control and have seen water in the pan getting rusty already and I bought this unit January of this year.. I think I will drill mine too. Worst case I just plug the hole if it causes any kind of unwanted issues..

[@HonestMike]

@@mattolsson8816 Mine is the 8000 too... Drill it & be prepared to have everyone to say "BLAH BLAH BLAH you need the water for efficiency" BS to you :) Honest²

[@antwaunmckan8548]

@@HonestMike o

[@butchthurman4685]

It is suppose to be tilted back slightly. It will sling water around on fan to help cool unit

[@GoatZilla]

Water is there to help cool the condenser. If you drain it, it will still produce the same temps, however it will work harder trying to do it. I would only do this if I were anticipating not running the unit for a while and wanted to drain it.

[@HonestMike]

I don't run it daily... Actually only run it when it's 100º+(F) Honest²

[@pattimichellesheaffer103]

Is the what the Midea techs or design crew said?

[@GoatZilla]

@@pattimichellesheaffer103 Did you read the manual?

[@Bob-Fields]

This is true for dry climates, but when the humidity in your area is +90% drainage is very necessary

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

​@@HonestMike you might include that info in your video.

[@nolanbrey9854]

If you do this use the same location as this guy. I went for the corner and thought I was clear of anything, but punctured a coolant line and ruined my unit!

[@yemarican]

I have installed one on my shipping container (which is my work shop now) and every time I turn the AC on it has a smell to it .. even if its on the fan mode .. there is a bunch of water in there I can tell you that .. could that be the cause of the smell?? and why isnt there a drain hole originally on the unit ? Thank you for sharing .. I like the mount you built .. it looks awesome and well made.

[@gofer23mw]

Thanks for the video and the comments to your video

[@wjford1]

My 8000 was 18 months old when the fan became noisy. A flashlight showed it covered in crud and splattering something dark and liquid. Outside, crappy looking water filled the pan where others have drilled a hole. I replaced it with a new 8000 that I already had. Funny thing, when I ran the new one all last night it didn't malfunction even though it had no water at all in the pan. I plan to use the old 8000 to measure exactly where the drain hole needs to be drilled. If I have to replace the 8000 again in 18 months because there is no water in the pan, at least I won't have been breathing that moldy looking crap.

[@bluemagi1656]

Is your unit still ok? Bugs and mosquitos started to appear when I purchased and use this unit, weird that it didn't happen prior even though I leave my windows open. It's been weeks since I drilled hole to mine using your guide. Thank you. Hopefully nothing goes wrong. BTW what kind of paint did you use to prevent rusting? Acrylic, rubber, or?

[@HonestMike]

Krylon Paint & Primer :) hm²

[@altkev]

I've also noticed bugs in the room after this unit and I see bugs in the back part outside the window. I suspect there is a path for them to get inside.

[@rmcbride-ok]

I just took my midea apart and deep cleaned it. There was pink slime in it, along with other nasty stuff. 🤮! That's just after one year. There's not a drain hole, so I searched and came along this video. What bit do you use?

[@joeblowjohnny2297]

Bleach with eat up copper and aluminum. So you know ? 😂😂😂

[@JW-cb4ls]

I have two of these units in my downstairs windows. I recently have been seeing a lot of springtails getting into the house. Sure enough, i go out to look for the moisture and it seems no water has been draining from these units. I drilled this hole and water came dripping out like crazy. I don't know if this will keep the springtails away now that there won't be any water sitting and collecting, but it def is worth a shot. Thanks for the vid!

[@HonestMike]

I was nervous cuz I figure I would get some blowback. To Drill or Not to Drill... That is the question! It's fun to drill things ;) Honest²

[@TheAirConditionerGuy]

Drill!!! Rust is an air conditioners worst enemy by far.

[@crankshaft007]

The new units are designed this way, so you should really do some more research. And educate views that the fan splash water onto the coils is to help better cooling. Is this right? I’m sure on paper it looked like a great idea but in practice it’s poorly done. My brand new AC unit has a huge puddle of rust in that pan. Manufacturer can’t help

[@1jfmurray]

They do make QwikTreat Condensate Pan Treatment Tablets for window units.

[@Zimbagwe26]

Exactly what I needed

[@jasonburns32]

I got the same unit, is it me or is there no drain hole !!!

[@williamnunez9609]

so you guys are saying regardless if the water is used for the fan to spit at the fins to help cool the unit down there is really no difference on how efficient the unit will work if you just let it drain completely out, that slime is a pain when it builds up and causes all type of hiccups

[@dplj4428]

what reasons cause water slow to go away? -- Not tilted enough? -- Heavy all day rains? Maybe use a wet back? Other shapes of ac also have this mess,

[@yezimaverage]

My mom just bought a midea u shaped window ac. Is the ticking sound from behind the ac normal? It’s making a random clicking sound besides the air noise

[@bobdroidsky225]

It's the fan splashing water against the back grill. Normal operation, but...

[@yezimaverage]

@@bobdroidsky225 but what?

[@bobdroidsky225]

@@yezimaverage The noise bothers your mother, and you have a swimming pool inside the A/C. And, in my case, it ruined the A/C in 2 years because of corrosion.

[@yezimaverage]

@@bobdroidsky225 okay thanks for sharing 👍🏼, is there a way to prevent this?

[@bobdroidsky225]

@@yezimaverage Well, this video, I suppose. Make sure it's draining well. Also, make sure the rusty water is not dripping from the roof onto the a/c. Rust from the iron roofing nails causes corrosion in aluminum and copper.

[@ComeHere-KittyKitty]

WARNING: one slip puncturing the coil and your unit is destroyed. Anyone who drills a hole you HAVE to remove the two screws on the same side he's showing, you won't be able to see the last coil. PUT YOUR FINGER INSIDE to feel the limited space you have to drill. Consider leaving your finger inside as you gently puncture a hole with a sharp tool like a half inch flat wood bit works great, can hammer gently to get a pin prick hole then use small drill bit and graduate to larger size still using finger feel you only have maybe 1/3" to work with. If you puncture the copper colored coil things you will destroy the unit, coolant or whatever is in them will flow out and it's very dangerous to breath it, and no chance of returning the expensive unit. But do drill a hole since it's an obscene flaw with so many negative reviews about draining inside on the floor and outside ON the window ledge rotting wood.

[@thejabnow]

I came to this video with the same question about my unit. Seems like there is conflicting opinions about if we should "drill-baby-drill" or "splish-spash take a bath". I'm thinking about drilling, but am also thinking about using a very short drill bit (one that sticks out of the drill no more than the thickness of the metal encasing) to avoid puncturing any of the compressor tubes (it's worth sacrificing a drill bit to avoid ruining such an expensive unit)

[@michaelkelly3900]

FYI just punctured my coil, thought I was being so careful, it’s trash now

[@PhilipWojcik]

You should should a step up bit. More expensive, but will save you from a drill bit pulling your drill up into the coil after you puncture

[@cheflebowski8155]

Hey Mike. So do you or can anyone that sees this tell me how this specific air conditioner drains? Does it literally just drip down the back of the condenser coils in the front and ride into the pan or is there an actual drainage line that feeds out? Mine starting to leak in the front into the house so I wasn’t sure how it drains exactly. There are two holes in the back of the pan that are clear and open so I am at a loss. Thank you in advance for any help.

[@kodiak536kodiak536]

I haven't installed mine yet but, position of brace can make a big difference in how it drains? Some video suggest level but, I'm making mine to tilt backwards towards compressor and little towards where the hole will be for drain...makes more sense to me that way.

[@Mike-gz4xn]

Id check how level yours is and make sure it’s not sloping towards the house

[@FuzzyJohn]

That water gets splashed on the condenser to improve the cooling. By drilling that hole you just reduced the efficiency of this AC.

[@DoozyBytes]

I was just gonna comment the same…. It’s true, look it up people before making this mistake.

[@petersachs764]

I have several air conditioners that seem to lack drain holes. I get what you are saying but that standing water really helps all the metal screws, lower coils and lower chassis rust.

[@darinp5612]

Drill the hole. The reason for having a sealed case and this water splashing design is to promote the energy star junk units that only last a couple years. Drill the hole

[@cheatermustdie00]

Why? the water is to cool condenser i hope u didn't void the warranty

[@darinp5612]

@@cheatermustdie00 if you don't drill, it will rot out in a couple years, then you're at the store buying a new one... it's called planned obsolescence.

[@ramirogonzalez4117]

I don't understand why the manufacturers didn't make a hole

[@davidcopple4892]

How does it cool after said hole was installed? Some say the water needs to be on there to keep it cooling/cooling radiator.

[@HonestMike]

The AC was blowing 50-51.5ºf with or without water! I put tape over the hole & ran tests. Looks like the lower basin can hold near 3 cups of water. When full of water I don't see where it is helping with cooling @_@ Honest²

[@chronosemagram]

​ @Honest Mike You'd probably only notice a difference if you're in a dry climate, and there was a big temperature disparity between indoor and outdoor. The water on the external radiator will definitely help eliminate heat from the system more quickly, but if you're somewhere wet then it's mostly just going to collect extra moisture. In theory, even at 100% relative humidity weather, the external coil should be hotter than ambient and so it should still be able to vaporize, but it'll be slow.. and in high humidity, the interior is going to be generating a lot of moisture. The alternative for someone who wanted to keep the efficiency gain but to make sure the overflow happens in a consistent spot, would be a hole higher up on the side to get rid of excess water above a certain level.. but if it's regularly overflowing then you're probably doing the right thing just letting it drain completely. It definitely seems like a maintenance tradeoff to me. It'd suck for that bucket to just be a constant mildewy, buggy, tepid pool so nice vid.

[@travisevans2549]

The fan…the fan is the main thing cooling the condenser, not the water flinging all over (that just helps a bit).

[@chronosemagram]

@@travisevans2549 Yes... My post was about conditions where the vaporization would be more noticeable. It makes more of a difference in dry climates.

[@HonestMike]

@@chronosemagram Thanks for the reply! Was worried making my 1st how to vid... Never thought To Drill or Not to Drill would get so political @_@ Honest²

[@user-pj9oz6oy9v]

Yo no sé en qué mes será hay que buscar las alta y pregunta en cuál oficialia es que que tocar todo eso hay que hacerlo

[@tpapictures]

Hey, very useful video. We just ran a whole summer of this AC and it accumulated water like nothing we've ever seen and we don't even live in a particularly humid area (Montreal). We're lost about how to keep it clean inside. It's a bit of a dusty and corroded mess. Is there a relatively easy way to remove the components of the back part to clean properly? We were also told by Midea themselves both "it's designed to not need drain holes" and at the same time, "you can put a small hole somewhere if you like". So I said to them, how can you say BOTH things to customers??" So, do you recommend I just drill a hole like you did? How large of a hole should I make and what would I use to create a stopper?

[@skip741x3]

Latest midea's use a 3/4" hole on the right rear side if viewed from behind.. it had a rubber plug in it..I pulled that out on day one..they are aware that this is an issue

[@tpapictures]

​@@skip741x3Thank you. Maybe I'll try to make a home.

[@MITCH1221]

Do these units or similar units come with a disconnect switch or valve shut off so I can completely disconnect the unit into two i’m doing a makeshift installation through the wall and would like to not drill a hole the size of the unit into my wall

[@kyryder7220]

Hi - thanks for the video but my question is "what is the mfg and model of the support brackets? I have a Medea Easy Cool and I need the S-Shape. The store sold me flat brackets and now the A/C tilts towards the window because of the condensation reservoir on the back edge! Thanks for your assistance.

[@freddyhernandez9418]

When it rains does water comes in from the bottom sides foam, or it seals good ?

[@TheGabo2012]

yea man New AC dont drain water anymore,,,, they use the water to cool the coils....dont do this unless you want to kill your AC

[@bartp27772]

I opened the plug and put it back half way , so just a 1/2 of what should come out and some will stay in , I guess by nite time if I shut it it will all drain 💁

[@seemerise6746]

12000 btu (purchased at costco). Been in window almost a month. Corrosion /scale appears to be forming at the bottom of the rear fins. Also rust color water from where unit panels meet at the rear(and splashed on the side fins). Notice the internal screws started to rust after the first week (look through the side vents). Runs and cools fine. But, if thats corrosion starting to build up already on the fins....its no way this unit will last long (cooling wise). Can someone educate me on this and has anyone notice this this issue or something similar. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Purchased two units tested the first one for three weeks no problems. But this second one I'm not so sure.

[@thedegenerate9573]

Good God, I was THINKING THE SAME THING IMMEDIATELY AFTER INSTALLING THIS THING! Where is the drain so the plastic blower doesn't break or mold, OMG!!!

[@HonestMike]

Drill it :) Carefully • Honest²

[@mattb6514]

The sling fans on window shakers are meant to come in contact with the condensate water.(slope outward is important on these) This water helps cool the compressor by rejecting heat from the condenser more efficiently. The air outside is never in contact with the air inside on window shakers. This mod will likely reduce the life span of your compressor. I would stick to cleaning before storage end of the season. Maybe even drill a hole to rinse/clean and plug it for operation the way it was engineered.Good idea for a new vid. Cheers.

[@Funky4me21]

yeah just drill a hole using a very stubby drill bit a size smaller than any rubber plug you have and you have a simple removable plug if you want.

[@nobaddog1]

Matt, do you have one of these u shape units? There is a design issue with it that causes the condensate to foul up the evaporator and squirrel cage with mold after a few months' usage. Also the condenser clogs up due to the excessive condensate that the unit can't get rid of. Over an inch of condensate is too much. Your theory is sound but this Midea requires this mod or you will live with lung infections. Midea knows about the flaw.

[@mattb6514]

@@nobaddog1 I have no issues in Alberta Canada using it on a square footage room that can satisfy set point with 10,000 btu’s. Design may not be able to handle your locations humidity and or room size.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

​@@nobaddog1 no issues with mine in West Texas.

[@nobaddog1]

@@mattb6514 I should have added that I live in New Orleans where the humidity is always 100% so I get a ton of condensate water it just overwhelms the system. The little unit works good though it’s always got a stream of water coming out.

[@muzikmon2267]

Right from the HVAC technicians See below A window room air conditioner is not designed with a drain plug or drain hole that allows the unit to drain excess water while operating. Air conditioners have a "slinger ring" around the rear fan blade. The fan is designed to pick water up off the bottom of the pan and throw it against the condenser coils.

[@HonestMike]

Nope... its to keep em in buisness @_@ mine running fine • hm¹

[@muzikmon2267]

@@HonestMike I know yours will run fine. I didn't say it wouldn't work without it... But guaranteed your machine is running hotter I've already done the test... YOUR AIR CONDITIONER WILL FAIL PREMATURELY VERSUS IF YOU DID NOT DRILL A HOLE.. But you might get lucky... But you're still wrong.. You are a thousand percent wrong. I even have a close friend in the business. Who showed me and explain the whole thing.. You couldn't be more wrong.... As a matter of fact I still have a 14-year-old 1200 BTU air conditioner that I've never drilled a hole in the back.. How much longer do you need an air conditioner to last 🤣 You know you can literally hose down the whole inside of an air conditioner in those spots with no problem and clean it even the coils!! AS I DID AFTER YEARS NO PROBLEMS NO ISSUES. Sorry dude you're creating a new type of dumb spreading complete lies to good people.. KZbin should actually take down this video... It's really sad..

[@mattb6514]

Correct. Left them a comment as well. Lots of people overheating compressors with this mod. Unit will run fine until the compressor burns out. Suggest a plug for anyone who has already drilled a hole. They can call it the cleaning/service hole lol.

[@muzikmon2267]

@@mattb6514 Yeah if you notice old air conditioners used to have a drain plug.. That's not to take the plug out That's to drain your AC at the end of the season when you store it or put a cover over it. They took that plug out in my opinion because just as you mentioned it can damage the compressor if things don't stay cool enough It's part of the system. So what was happening is people were draining the water and leaving the plug out not putting it back It was causing damage to the air conditioners THEN IT BECOMES A WARRANTY PROBLEM.. So they figured people are just stupid we will protect them from themselves THEY DON'T GET IT. SO THEY GOT RID OF THE DRAIN PLUG COMPLETELY.. Just amazing how people speak and create new types of dumb when they don't know what they're doing.. 🤣

[@nobaddog1]

@@mattb6514 what do you think will overheat a compressor fastest a clogged up condenser or no water getting slung up on it. The water helps its efficiency. It doesn’t cool the compressor. The compressor is cooled on the suction side, the cold side. As the refrigerant exit evaporator it is returned to the compressor. Enough said. It’s starting to get technical now lol.

[@blackboy424]

I am getting crap in the bottom of mine... lots of it

[@HonestMike]

DRILL IT WITH CAUTION :) Then, after you drain it... spray it with bleach & and refill with water to get that funk out. Paint & monitor your drill hole for Rust • Honest²

[@freddyhernandez9418]

What is the clear plastic over the unit ?....do I need it ?

[@nazoX7paradox]

PSA dont try to drill a hole on the left side of the midea, punctured the unit and now have to order new one =(

[@mandyperkins4415]

I couldn't get the panel off on mine and just blindly drilled it in a moment of extreme frustration. Water came pouring out, but I don't see any obvious sign that I punctured the coil. It's running and blowing cold. What happened when you punctured yours and how long did it take to see something was wrong?

[@nazoX7paradox]

@@mandyperkins4415 i had 2, first one did whats urs did, alot of water came out and works fine. second one tho is where i messed up. i think it hit the coil and a loud hissing/blowing noise started with a bunch of water pouring. i could tell the second i drilled into there was a problem.

[@cynthiagonzales9131]

I'm so confused 😱!! Some say leave alone and some say here's the plug. Use an AC unit cleanser cause of copper.

[@HonestMike]

I don't follow the mantra about the water in there.... I believe the drainage holes got plugged when they painted &/or powder coated em. TIME WILL TELL WHO AC WILL LAST>>> The ones who drilled... or not drilled @_@ Honest²

[@TheAirConditionerGuy]

Coming from a collector of vintage ACs, the ones with a drain hole are almost always mint on the inside, the ones that are not are usually rusted very severely. Drill a drain hole!

[@lyndacrockett2863]

All I know is there's nothing more dangerous for your health than mold inside your unit. There's nothing more gross than a bedroom air conditioner that smells like mildew. Washing those air filters does not get rid of the mildew. This is a huge problem in cheap hotels and in houses from Atlanta to key West. Drill the holes!

[@Funky4me21]

I just put my AC units in my upper floor since both of my Central airs went out a week apart. I purchased one new unit because they were both 21 years old and the old gas is not around. Had to purchase a new furnace to be compatible with the new freon gas. Anyway, I think instead of drain holes you may be able to drain away the water with a wick sitting in the pan area and hanging outside the case lower than the pan.

[@chuckger1625]

I've read every comment but no one is talking about the mold and build up on the squirrel fan blower - take a flash light and look at the blue fan - anyone seeing build up or mold? How about after you drill the holes - has the build up stopped ? That's the crap you are breathing - the stuff on that fan.

[@etheoharis77]

Nice vid!! Thanks for the info.

[@HonestMike]

Dude, that makes me feel good! This was my 1st How To Vid... was nervous.... but a nice "Thanks for the Info" made my day (9 months later DOH!) Honest²

[@caddys83]

Thank you very much

[@HonestMike]

You know... That means alot... I appreciate that :) Honest²

[@steve318k]

Is there any reason the support bracket is so long .. even on the 12,000 size... Mine will be in area where people walk past it ( like me) , and that thing will leave a nasty bruise or cut. Is there any way once you know where the A/C sits on it , to cut the legs shorter and remove the cross beam ? I'm thinking it should be easy enough to somehow tie it back together under the A/C if necessary. Or is it even necessary ? This is my biggest concern before purchasing this unit. Thanks, Steve

[@todbnla]

concur 100%, the ac is over engineered and the water drain and the bracket were neglected!

[@Licoricedisc]

@@todbnla No... no drain is part of the design as is the long bracket...it is longer so as to be able to move the unit during install or maintenance.

[@teresacheers8273]

So the Midea I bought last year wasn't draining, actually it was throwing rust all over the side of my house. When I took it out to store it last fall I could see rust all over the inside of the outer part of the unit. I don't believe this is normal for an ac unit. Any suggestions???

[@mattolsson8816]

This is interesting because my Midea U which is fairly new is already having rusty water in the pan.. I live in a hot humid climate (South ALabama) and this unit seems to have issues with keeping humidity under control.. I wonder if this condensate sitting in the back could possible affect that in some way.. But the fact that it's already rusting inside seems to be a quality issue..

[@mitchelljermaine]

@@mattolsson8816 Just got mine today. The second I picked up the unit and felt how light it was for 12,000 BTU; I knew straight away that the alloys they were using were too cheap to last very long without rust. They have to be using either cheaper metals or a lot of plastics. I doubt there's much copper.

[@travisevans2549]

Lol, it seems like modern window units purposely let that water pool and fling it all around on the condenser…and wherever else it happens to fling. It is to increase efficiency they say. Down sides are noise (random annoying splattering/popping noise), rust and mold. Up side is efficiency. I will pay the extra bit on my electric bill and drill the hole. You can’t drill blind into these units though, be careful.

[@HonestMike]

WHOA!!!! Good share @_@ I wonder who else has seen this • Honest²

[@HonestMike]

@@mattolsson8816 WHOA!!! Drill it... you can always Gorilla tape it after ;) That's what I did during my TO WATER or NOT TO WATER Test :) Honest²

[@Epyon1201]

is it normal to have the liquid pool in the bottom of the front (inside) portion of this unit? i see water between the bottom of the base plastic and the metal grate on mine that i just installed today.

[@willardferguson7818]

@Ruben Garza where is the drain hole? I thought there was not a drain hole on this unit.

[@GameboyDiamond6277]

DO NOT drain a hole in the unit. Doing so will void your warranty. In instances where there is an excess amount of condensation there is a ¾in opening near the rear of the unit where the water would drain from. The fan is designed to sling water onto the coils to maintain a cool temperature, hence the splashing.

[@Islandtimelife]

Thank you I was wondering if that was designed to do that.

[@leighsabean3056]

Can you please identify specifically where this3/4" opening is located? I have a neighbor below that is complaining that the water is dripping on to him below...and I need to install a water diverting drain tube...

[@jmorgan4794]

Im pretty confused by this unit. Installed with the proper tilt degree towards the outside. Got SO much water coming out the crevices of this unit. I can't have it leak outside because I live in a 100yo barn with a big 2nd story outside deck where this AC hangs, and the water will damage it. Anyways, because of this, I drilled the hole. It worked okay for last summer...this summer I now have the water draining from the drain hole but also draining through a couple other holes more toward the center of the unit's housing, and its very hard to catch the water. I'm getting SO much water, like a gallon or more after 24 hours of use. All my other units (non u-shaped mideas) don't leak at all and have no water sounds or anything. Why the heck is this one so annoying! I love the look but man, the drainage thing is such a weird problem. Is anyone else getting this much water? It cools great by the way

[@joeslovo7384]

Thanks! What is your solution to clean the blower wheel which gets caked with bio slime? A possibility: Before turning the A/C off, run it on fan only for a period of time to dry the moisture off of that wheel. What do you think?

[@takapaw7480]

Before you drain holes it the water drips out from the filter

[@nanchen242]

I bought these u shape units last year. Doesn’t the new models have drainage holes?

[@slide_ways]

They do. Unfortunately I have a very wide window sill (6 inches) and the holes are draining into my window sill.

[@a.resajones1534]

Yes. Unfortunately they are badly positioned. I added a hose to mine. Not sure if that's going to solve the problem with my window sill.

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

My 12k btu unit has a drain. This A/C unit also evaporates this condensation water if your humidity is less than 80%.The water doesnt just sit there. Its used to cool the components of the unit. Its designed that way. Im in a dry climate so i have zero issues with mine. Don't do this mod just because there is a video about it. The instructions mention issues with very high humidity. Mine also has a drain. Unit must be near level as instructions state to work properly.

[@random-ig6tp]

What type of drill bit do I use to make this hole?

[@random-ig6tp]

I used a step drill bit in case anyone else is wondering

[@fuqui035]

I live in florida my account air conditioner has been running for 9 years straightener take it out

[@JoseRivera-lk4cz]

no drilling ,,it use water to cool condensor

[@ckmoore101]

This is stupid. Don't you people think if it needed to drain from the bottom, there would be a drain hole? It is _supposed_ to collect water. The tips of the fan splash the condensate, and fling it on the condenser, causing evaporative cooling effect. Providing additional cooling capacity. Draining removes this ability, and your unit will be far less effective in humid/hot conditions. If you drilled a hole, patch it with silicon. The rear opening is designed to drain at specific level to allow the condensate to drain once it gets to the maximum level. The bottom of the unit is supposed to get dirty, its unavoidable. Thats why you need to clean it every year or 2, depending on the environment.

[@tommyjuneau6329]

Just rained like mad and had so much water pooled in there it began to foam...drilled a hole problem solved

[@Krugzug]

All you are doing is canceling the "AC Slinger" that throws water to allow AC to run more efficiently. Engineers did not forget to put drain holes under the fan.

[@bobdroidsky225]

That was their PR excuse. The newest version has a proper drain hole.

[@UnderratedTech-]

@@bobdroidsky225no way does it really? I got this same unit about a year ago and yesterday it just wasn’t cooling as well as before… I was even thinking about taking it back to Costco to replace it with the newer version . Or at least I’m assuming that it’s the newer version when I went last week they had this model. You think I should drill a hole ?

[@bobdroidsky225]

@@UnderratedTech- If it's already not working--it's broken. DO NOT DRILL A HOLE as it would void your warranty!!!!!!!!

[@bobdroidsky225]

@@UnderratedTech- Drilling a hole will void your warranty. Just take it Costco, get a new one, and THEN think about drilling!

[@slide_ways]

How big was the drill bit 🙏

[@skip741x3]

new units come predrilled in the same location 3/4" hole with a plug

[@seek3n]

Bro! Bleach! 😂😅 thats gonna corrode the refrigerant line(s)

[@jamesbrasington8559]

The reason it does not have a drain hole is because the fan is supposed to sling water onto the condenser to help with Cooling. That may or may not apply to this model but it does drain aeventually if it gets over a certain level.

[@bogieman101]

And a certain amount of water just stays there. If you are in a dry area it may evaporate. I'm in the south and haven't run the unit in over a week, it is hot as hell down here and there is still water standing in the unit. Humidity is just to high for it to dry out. It will be an algae haven and rust in a short time like this. Maybe a drain hole with a plug may be the best arrangement, if I can just remember to drain the unit...

[@EoRdE6]

I see some people in the commens saying they dont want to breathe mildew. If you think you're breathing air from the outside of your AC you have no idea how an AC works. There are two fans and two separate air loops in a window AC which have no overlap, inside air is recirculated through the evaporator coil inside and outside air is recirculsted through the condenser outside. All that mildew never comes anywhere near your air, stop worrying. The only reason to drill a hole in your AC is if you prefer spending more every month on electricity.

[@BlessedIhumble]

Water drain automatically. Installed as companies instructed.