How to drill out a hard wheel bolt

[@daleslover2771]

Been doing brake jobs for over 45 years of my life, that's why I meticulously, clean the threads on the lug studs, and the lug nuts and check them twice, tighten them bare hand, completely down, then put a light coat anti-seize, re torq them down in a proper torquing sequence, 10 minutes will save you, (2 hours & $800 worth of frustration) Excellent Video!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@fromstarlighttosunrise128]

so you’re the one responsible for making my hands permanently greasy when i take off wheels

[@sherman4121]

We need more people like you in this industry

[@richardcranium5947]

Yeah, I used to do that too, back in the day. I suspect you don't reduce your tightening torque by the amount required for the lube you use, therefore potentially over torquing your bolts by up to 50% (Look up dry versus lubed torques)

[@ultimatehandyman]

This is a job that I did a few months back for a mate, who could not get his almost bald tyre changed. I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉

[@chrisb1978]

You know, if you have something that is galvanized and you want to take the zinc coating off, hydrochloric acid will strip it. I'm sure a man of your standing would know someone who has some.

[@gemmab2462]

Thank you Ultimate Handyman. Is this common with VW locking bolts? We have exactly the same problem. Thank you.

[@aquabono]

How many times did you & your mate think of the tire jockey with air compressor that first over-tightened the bolt?

[@Senkatuka23]

One of the best channels around, no nonsense highly informative content

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@martinstevenson7462]

Hi ultimate handyman you are a man of many talents you have a good Sunday to.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks Martin ;-)

[@pb9926]

Very impressive job on removing that wheel bolt ! I must say that drill you were using was also an impressive piece of kit. Great video.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, yes the Evolution mag base drill is superb. We often use these on site when drilling floor plates in situation etc. Thanks for the comment

[@darrenmorris8258]

@@ultimatehandyman where can i buy this drill?

[@ultimatehandyman]

@@darrenmorris8258 fave.co/3iDwo9z

[@cryptosliceoflife3081]

finally I found a video that actually helps me!!!

[@closertothetruth9209]

man your sending me broke with all the nice new tools , the artu drill bits seen good reviews seen bad reviews but you sold me on them, anti seize bet your mate will never forget that

[@ultimatehandyman]

The Artu drill bits can drill really hard metals- but are not good on soft metals like mild steel etc. Thanks for the comment

[@normanboyes4983]

Well done in achieving a sound repair it is good to see ‘sheer application’ rewarded by success.👍😉

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@adzthewise]

What?! Only use 1 lock nut per wheel... not for all nuts!! Another amazing vid! Hero amongst men!

[@ultimatehandyman]

The other 3 lock nuts that the garage successfully removed were on the other 3 wheels. Thanks for the comment

[@adzthewise]

@@ultimatehandyman derp... thanks for clarifying :P

[@millycarrington]

You shouldn't apply anti-seize if the manufacturer doesn't specify it. Their recommended torque will be based on clean dry threads. Lubricating threads will increase the clamping force for a given torque which can over-stress or stretch the bolts to the point they are damaged or weakened. Normal (aviation) practice is to reduce the applied torque by something like 30% (or more) if a normally dry thread is to be lubricated. Doing this restores the clamping force to the correct level.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I've heard that the torque should be reduced by 20%. Most wheel bolts would not cause such a problem if impact wrenches were not used so much by garages. Thanks for the comment

[@millycarrington]

Yep, I agree about the use of impact guns and I normally ask them not to use them (and then watch them!). Torque reduction % will vary depending upon the type of lubricant used.

[@yusuf.alajnabi]

@Dick Fageroni agreed I have never seen a tyre shop use a torque wrench that is why I always fit my own wheels and torque them myself however I can't see how lubricating a thread changes the torque setting of a bolt I beg to differ on that one and I think it's a great idea using antiseize because the bolts when the get wet won't rust into the treaded holes.

[@nodriveknowitall702]

Yusuf Maltese Lubricating the threads reducing their friction. The same amount of torque will allow the fasteners to climb further up the incline that threads are before that torque becomes equal to the result of the opposing clamping force and frictional force.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

You've got it back to from brother ... Engineering and Automotive standards are: Unless the manufacturer SPICIFICALLY notes Dry Torque (with by the way is exceedingly rare, I've not seen any automotive torque specified as dry) then the toque value is to be done oil lubricated or equivalent, (Loctitie and Never-Seize are equivalents for example)

[@MattTester]

What a nightmare situation, like you said before though that drill did a great job. Great set up too, looked very solid.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Absolutely. Thanks for the comment

[@r.d.1991]

Very patient and methodical work. Another great video!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@AllenHart999]

This looks like hard work. How much would this cost to sort out.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I have no idea how much a garage would charge to get one of these out, obviously this was done for a mate- so no charge. Thanks for the comment

[@lemagreengreen]

I'd expect £50 per wheel or so but maybe more if they need to get a mag base drill/purchase the carbide drill bit required. It's not the sort of stuff a garage will normally have kicking around. They'll charge the minimum of 1 hour labour though and garage labour seems to hover around the £40-50/hr mark.

[@MidianMan]

At the garage I work it it's £20 per wheel or a full set for £60

[@ryanh3285]

You can smash a certain size star socket over most locking wheel nuts but like you said it doesn't work every time.Its definitely worth trying first as it does work most the time.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, I think the garage tried to remove it that way, but it was well and truly stuck. Thanks for the comment

[@cliffcarlo180]

You really do have a tool for every job, just like Inspector Gadget. Chief Quimby will be pleased I'm sure. Go! Go! Gadget! lol

[@ultimatehandyman]

LOL The mag base drill is not mine I'm afraid, but I could have also borrowed one from work as they have a couple of them ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@amana1480]

Going back to copper grease on wheel bolts: I once bought a car where all the wheel bolts were stiff to remove, even after cracking the bolts loose. I removed the wheel bolts and then found they all had hardened copper grease in the threads. I wirebrushed all the wheel bolt threads, and this made the wheel bolts much easier to tighten and remove.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I've never had a problem with it- yet. Thanks for the comment

[@tismeDenis]

Great video, in my tyre fitting day's I would always stand next to the wheel with my back towards the car, hammer in hand & strike each head once bcos they're self locking, once done I found the bolt would undo easily. I appreciate you're dealing with a sunken bolt so access is limited. Just had to share it :) Thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@kyle12111994]

Have you ever used an induction coil heater designed for stuck bolt removal, obviously only if there proud of the surface, but would like your honest opinion of one if you ever come across them

[@ultimatehandyman]

I've never used one, but they look really useful! If I ever get chance to try one I will make a video ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@ashleyburton8605]

I've seen some dreadful attempts at getting a wheel off. Good job this one kept the wheel in one piece!

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, my mate did say that I could cut the wheel off if necessary as he had a spare alloy. I guess even that is better than getting three points on your license and a fine! Thanks for the comment

[@Chriswales]

For the average car/alloy wheels, locking nuts are more trouble than they're worth these days. Bought a 2nd hand Peugeot from the main dealer years ago. They didn't give me the wheel nut key so took it back. Wasn't until a few months later I noticed that they'd drilled the old nuts off. leaving marks on every wheel.

[@drivewasher]

Anti sieze grease or oil should NEVER be used on wheel fixings. If the bolt or nut is squeaky rusty only then apply a tiny match head or smaller drop of oil. If wheel bolts where correctly torqued when fitting wheel this would rarely happen Forgot to mention that the correct torque cannot be applied when bolt is lubricated

[@Elwooddudes]

One my wheel locking wheel bolts has just broken… the head snapped off, just a frustrating situation! I think the garage out the bolts on way too tight, quite a while ago, which didn’t go too well with the aging locking bolts! Don’t suppose you’re too far away from Nottingham?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I’m miles away, sorry. (Darwen, Lancs) I’m afraid I no longer have the mag base drill either! Some garages tighten wheel nuts/bolts using impact drivers, which causes major problems. I’m sure there is a British standard for tightening wheel bolts, which means they should be using a torque wrench!

[@BestUserNameUK]

No doubt saved your mate a few bob, top job👍🏻

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yeah, he was really struggling with this and the tyre was in dire need of being replaced. Today I'm attempting to remove a sheared bolt in a lawn mower for another mate ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@owendavies4613]

I found this very useful as there are not many ways if the stud is rotating in the hub.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I'm glad you found the video useful ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍

[@mikezeke7041]

Lot of work. Cool video. Thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@hankthebugman]

.......am just now in the process of having to drill out two wheel studs (12 mm) on a 2012 Chrysler Grand Caravan...I must have had a mini stroke when I was at the tire shop last, because I did not stop them from using a pneumatic impact gun to tighten the lug nuts. Need I say more. Chrysler uses a steel lug nut wrapped in chrome plated sheet metal. If the nut is too tight on the wheel, and the socket slips and distorts the sheet metal, you are sunk. Even hammering the socket onto the damaged nut did not work. The nuts were so tight, the socket simply rounded the nuts beautifully. Fortunately the studs are drill-able with coated bits and I used about four sizes before using the 1/2 " final drill. Key to drilling out studs is to make sure the first hole you drill is perfectly centered. I made a centering tool out of a spent stud to accomplish this initial centering. I always clean the threads well, apply anti seize and torque by hand with a hand torque wrench. I also replace the OE lug nuts (the ones with the shitty sheet metal ) with aftermarket nuts machined out of a single chunk of steel. It works for me.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@nightjarflying]

How did you centre the drill bit on the bolt head? How did you ensure the drill bit was in line with the bolt? All by eye?

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, I just adjusted it so that the centre of the drill bit was central to the bolt by eye. Thanks for the comment

[@firesurfer]

@@ultimatehandyman There are inexpensive laser pointers that you can chuck in the drill to check aiming. Just get one that shoots the laser out the middle and not offset. Don't crush the laser, hand tight is all that is needed.

[@-smp-scientificmethodpersp838]

Tungsten carbide is better than titanium bit? Thanks for letting us know not to use a Cobalt

[@ultimatehandyman]

Cobalt will work on most bolts and is better than Tungsten, as it's not as brittle. Tungsten carbide bits are very tough, but very brittle, so if the drill moves sideways slightly it will break the drill bit. The bit that I used in this demo has a Tungsten tip, but the drill bit is steel, so can flex without breaking. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@kevinjking7026]

Excellent video. Thanks for uploading. I've got a Peugout with recessed antitheft bolts. I've drilled out two, but got through a fair few TCT bits. HSS just went blunt immediately. I tackling the remaining two next weekend. I've managed to drill most of the way through, and I intend using a stug extractor, but what drill bits would you recommend. I only have access to a hand drill or a mains sds with a chuck adapter.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I used the ARTU multi purpose drill bit for this one, but any multi-purpose drill bit should work. Thanks for the comment

[@captainbarnes923]

If using anti seize compound how much should you adjust the tightening torque by? After all the value given in the manuals is dry torque.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I've been told 20% but when I get chance I'm going to do some testing. Thanks for the comment

[@ArghBlahr]

I drilled one out with a standard hand drill last year. In lack of knowledge I used HSS bits. No problemo.

[@ultimatehandyman]

The anti-theft wheel bolt in this video could not be drilled using a regular bit. I tried one of the cutters that came with the machine first, which took the edge of the bit as soon as it touched the bolt. Thanks for the comment

[@HeartSoulLeake]

Wow. I believe that I have that exact situation on a 2007 Jeep Commander. Impact drill, W40, pipe extension, hammer will not release the lug. Tire shop broke a lug socket attempting to remove it. Woodside, QNs. NY area.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Best of luck with it ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍

[@HeartSoulLeake]

@@ultimatehandyman I finally found a shop that was able use the drilling method to remove the lug.

[@pdeaky]

Hey Chez, I just wanted to ask you a quick question which you've most likely already covered on another video but here goes. When drilling stainless steel with a cobalt bit and cutting compound should you go for a high or low speed drill setting? I'm thinking slow?

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, I would go slow, unless it's a small diameter bit

[@pdeaky]

@@ultimatehandyman Thanks Chez as always. Just one more question if I may. On a recent video I saw you were using a cutting compound that was in a nice neat long container, looked really good for dipping drill bits into. I've been looking for something similar as the sprays and oils I've used in the past seem to cause excess mess. If you could recommend me a compound for drilling I'd very much appreciate it! Cheers!

[@TractorWrangler01]

I just break them off then remove the bolt on the mill or drill press. If its a real mess i just replace the rotor. The labor to fix the problem is often less than the cost of the part. It is interesting seeing how you solved this problem though. :-)

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@garybrown5500]

Clamping plate to wheel is a good tip to enable use of mag drill. Thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@angelramirez7747]

Nice work! I learned something new.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@rogeronslow1498]

Interesting that you say you would use the drill as a last resort. I would use the drill before trying to weld to the bolt. Welding in a hole with soft aluminium that damages so easily is a recipe for disaster I reckon. It's a tough job that I must admit.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@markrowland5393]

Great video. You made that look easy. Anybody would think you did that sort of thing for a living. 😉 I suppose if you know what you're doing and have the right equipment, it is relatively straight forward. I suspect if I had had the problem I would have had to cut the wheel off.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks Mark, yes I do a lot of stuff like this on site. It's a pity the bolt would not come out using the welder though! Thanks for the comment

[@Limeayy]

I read not to place Anti Seize on wheel lug nuts and bolts somewhere but don't know where to find the information... Anyways, i'd recommend you don't do it because more lubrication, the wheel torque will be i guess tighter than its specification required. I would only use antiseize on exhausts.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Some anti-seize manufacturers have "for use on wheel bots and wheel nuts" on their packaging ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@thordehr]

I've NEVER failed to get a locking lug nut off by bashing a slightly undersize socket on it and buzzing it off with a good impact wrench. Although, I don't live in the rust belt, so results may vary. (Also, lug bolts may be a different beast, but I'd at least try the small socket idea).

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@adambailey3962]

Some of them have these diabolical hardened steel spinning rings fixed to the outer portion of the locking nut so a hammered on socket only spins the ring, not the inner nut or bolt. Getting them off usually involves cracking the ring off first, and then using a hammered on socket, but this drilling method would be the way to go if you came across one in a deeply recessed wheel.

[@andrewfroedge8227]

I once drilled/chiseled a wheel stud out with my tears \....took 6 hours

[@jasonandreoli4135]

Locking wheel nuts are a pig for getting stuck. It's not as if standard alloy wheels get stolen these days like they did 25 years ago as most cars already have them fitted as standard, there s no demand for knicked wheels. Better off replacing the locking bolts with normal ones asap.

[@ultimatehandyman]

I agree, I would never have locking wheel nuts on my vehicle (but then again I drive a van with rusty steel wheels) Thanks for the comment

[@blower1]

I'd be a little worried not having the locking wheel bolts on my car with wheels worth £2000+....although whole car more likely to be nicked than just the wheels.

[@suckers0]

Don't forget that tyres aren't cheap on many cars, so there's always some toe-rag that will knick a wheel just for the tyre. I had two taken from an old cheapo Renault 5 for that reason (thief got caught as he cut himself and left DNA - yah!).

[@jonnno100]

Absolutely agree! first job on my car when I got it was replace the locking wheen nuts with regular ones. Not like someone is going to nick the bog standard alloys off a Megan.

[@nubscrub]

Wheels still get stolen in 2018, a lock or two don’t stop a determined thief but are overall easy deterrents.

[@amana1480]

Well done for removing the bolt. Was there much damage to the wheel? It didn't look damaged at all.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks. No, the wheel was not damaged at all.

[@amana1480]

@@ultimatehandyman That's amazing. You did an amazing job.

[@H4rleyBoy]

Lucky lad to have a mate such as you and not some bodge merchant who would really screw it up

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@angelisone]

Help, I (many people also) don't have those special tools. How to remove a free spinning lug bolt with a nut still on it and they are recessed in deep of the wheel? Because if I can't remove the bolt, there no way to remove the wheel, caliber & rotor to replace the wheel hub. Using this drill tips, what type of drill bit I can drill? Used carbon drill bits did not good

[@ultimatehandyman]

Wheel bolts are much harden than a traditional bolt, so you need a specialist drill bit, such as the ARTU multi purpose bits. You could try any drill bit that is TCT, such as a masonry bit. A solid carbide bit will work, but they are incredibly brittle and snap easily. There is a specialist kit available now for removing anti-theft wheel bolts- but I've never tried it myself.

[@angelisone]

@@ultimatehandyman You are correct on the carbide bit. When I used them by hand drilling, they mostly snapped. Many thanks for replying back.

[@chatchatty2155]

Well told if I buy the cobalt drill set would I be able to drill through the stud with my electric drill bit confused because others are saying you can any help appreciate thanks

[@ultimatehandyman]

It depends how hard the stud is. On softer steels a cobalt drill bit will work fine 👍 Just make certain you use plenty of coolant/lubricant to prevent the drill bit from over heating.

[@stever5887]

U.H.--Just a heads' up about the CC (Closed Captioning). I like your videos a lot, but whoever is doing the CC is doing you a disservice. I turn them on frequently when listening to them as your accent can be hard for me to decipher at times (I am a U.S. native). The captioner apparently has as much (if not more) difficulty with it and I suspect does not have much knowledge of automotive/mechanical terms. The word "break" came out "brick" the first time, which became "break" the next time you said it. However, the first use was not corrected, so I'm not sure if he or she is reviewing their work to catch errors like that. When you were describing how to drill out the locking lug nut, you talked about drilling slowly so as not to "blunt" (dull) the bit, but the captioner typed in "block", which made no sense. I'm not sure I got your full meaning, as what you were trying to tell us wasn't transcribed properly. Whoever's doing the CC is going by sound (which we all do), but is unable to correct for this in the context of your meaning. I suspect the CC is done here in the States, but you can let KZbin know that there have been problems. Thanks.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, I have not had chance to edit the CC on this video yet. I do have someone that edits the CC, or sometimes I edit the CC myself (if I have time). The CC on this video is automatically generated by KZbin and sometimes it really gets my words mixed up! Thanks for letting me know though, much appreciated 👍

[@dolebandit9942]

What about drilling a slot then twisting a driver in it, Either it turns or the head snaps off, Either way the wheel comes off right ?

[@ultimatehandyman]

Cutting a slot in something that is really tight, rarely works. Thanks for the comment

[@ruinunes8251]

A few years ago I had the same situation. Luckily I managed to take the bolt off with a wheel but/bolt extractor set I bought in Halfords. Why are you wearing such a floral cap?

[@ultimatehandyman]

That is my welding cap, it is flame retardant. Because I tried welding a tube on first I had the welding cap on! Thanks for the comment

[@jusb1066]

hope your welding hat is also retardant to insults about its floral design!

[@ultimatehandyman]

They only make welding caps in weird designs, for some reason ;-)

[@JohnHughes2002]

Looks more like a wedding cap than a welding cap!

[@neilhuband995]

Welders caps are well known for having some interesting designs lol

[@jwagner1993]

J's I need to call NASA for my Nuts Lugs!!!! 2007 Expedition !

[@ultimatehandyman]

😂

[@ManoManoUK]

Thanks for this, some great tips! :D

[@ultimatehandyman]

You are welcome Thanks for the comment

[@ManoManoUK]

Ultimate Handyman No problem! :)

[@seankirby2580]

Excellent work on a truly horrible job. I'd be trying to do that with a rotary hammer drill, as I haven't seen the electromagnet mounting type. Thanks for the video.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, this job would have been ten times harder without the mag base drill! Thanks for the comment ;-)

[@johnrichy2k6]

Few years back I had to drill out 3 bolts on my old Astra with a 240 sds and diamond tipped drills, took hours but did the trick!

[@jonmattix1084]

Am I able to use the Dremel flex shaft tool with carving, drilling bit?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I seriously doubt that! I'm afraid I don't even own a Dremel 🤔

[@tunichtgut5285]

Anit-seize or a lubricant on wheel bolts is not allowed by most car manufacturers. You shouldn't recommend that. The rest of the video is excellent - as always!

[@ultimatehandyman]

I've been using it for decades, my garage uses it, several mechanics I know use it ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@mardakworkshop4450]

well done 👍🏻

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@MohammedAli-vo8hq]

awesome video thanks

[@asvarien]

How does drilling out the center of the bolt help to loosen it? The outer diameter and threads are still intact so why does this work?

[@ultimatehandyman]

Two reasons, firstly the heat generated by drilling can help to loosen the bolt (the ARTU drill bits are designed to be used with no coolant or lubrication, so they sort of burn the metal as they drill). Once the inside of the bolt is drilled out the bolt no longer has as much strength. Thanks for the comment

[@asvarien]

Thank you for your response.

[@jusb1066]

great job what a nightmare, boo to the garage who gave up mid job on him

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, I think the garage gave up due to the potential cost. Some garages can charge a lot per hour for labour, which could make a job like this seem expensive. Thanks for the comment

[@davewhite4907]

Nice video Chez. I like the idea of clamping a piece of steel plate on and using a mag drill. Those bits are impressive. Haven't seen the tipped ones like that before. I see the "to anti seize or not" argument going on again. Done it for more than 40 years myself. No problem so far. As you say Chez you can reduce the torque by a bit. There is some argument that the proper anti seize stuff is apparently made to actually lubricate as little as possible. Never actually put it to the test though. I suppose it might make an interesting experiment. Most tyre places where I am in the UK torque the nuts now anyway, and don't just bang them up with the air gun like they used to. I binned the locking bolts on my Peugeot. I think a set of four normal bolts were less than £15 online. I reckon the risk of getting the wheels nicked is less than the risk of having to do the job here! Keep up the good work mate! 👍

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks Dave, the ARTU drill bits are good on really hard metals and are much better than solid carbide bits as they are not brittle. The anti-seize debate and lock nuts debate (which nut goes on the bottom and which nut goes on the top) can go on for ever! Luckily, I only drive a van with steel wheels, so nobody wants to steal mine ;-) Thanks for the comments

[@Alanw74]

I do hope you got a proper wheel bolt with the collar that fits the wheel securely and didnt fit that normal bolt you applied anti sieze too. Good drilling tho

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, that was just a clip from another video of me applying some anti-seize ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@lemagreengreen]

You can dress a masonry bit (carbide tip) if you're a bit handy with the grinder and have a cbn or diamond wheel... but most probably won't. Works well for drilling stainless too though. I've found a pretty cheap source of carbide tipped drills for drilling hardened steel are ones sold as "locksmiths drills" - always have a few on hand.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@josevelasco3245]

The locking nuts are harder than regular lug nuts. I attacked it for a few hours today with a drill and and am getting close...I think. A Milwaukee 1400 ft. lbs impact and 2 keys couldn’t even budge it. Makes me wonder what happened.

[@ultimatehandyman]

They can be a real pain to remove! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@josevelasco3245]

@@ultimatehandyman it’s real tough. I’m using cobalt and got passed the stud length and am working the width of the stud now. Hopefully I’m doing it right and using a good set of bits. This is worse than rusty leaf spring shackles!

[@88baby12]

What’s the name of that drill? Where can I find a budget version

[@ultimatehandyman]

It is a magnetic base drill, they are widely used in engineering/construction- kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJ27pHimdpaanMk They are expensive though, but you might be able to hire one (which will be a lot more economical) Thanks for the comment 👍

[@yt66228]

Did you try hammering on a cheap socket that almost fits. Thats the way its done when stealing wheels.

[@ultimatehandyman]

No, I assumed that the garage had tried a few different techniques as the bolt was chewed a bit at the end. Thanks for the comment

[@970357ers]

I find tightening the normal bolts down takes pressure off the locker.

[@ultimatehandyman]

In some cases it can do. Thanks for the comment

[@euanroy4673]

Anti seize should never be used on wheel bolts of a car, if you look on autodata at the torque for your wheel bolts (120nm for 17mm 5 lug vag cars) it will have a small info tab that says to never apply grease or antisieze to wheel bolts, if locking wheel nuts aren't removed using an air gun or overtightened then this is rarely a problem

[@AvocaSingleTrack]

Anti seize is no problem. People use it all over the snow belt. Never a prob. You just have to take it into account when re-tightening because it's easier to over tighten. If you're torquing to 90 and there's anti seize, you're probably closer to 110-115 without knowing.

[@gastonmatbrai]

Hi. We weld it to a piece of rebar. Last car was a vw vento.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@s0nnyburnett]

Bet the owner is glad they bought a car with 'german engineering' behind it.

[@1701_FyldeFlyer]

Just buy a locking wheel nout removal spanner. Costs about a tenner and a lot easier to get off rather than drilling. Alternatively, if you dont mind wasting one of your sockets, select the size that is a little too small. Hammer that onto the wheel nut and just remove by undoing as normal. Personally, Id never attempt to drill one off

[@ultimatehandyman]

I'm sure the garage tried that- before I drilled it out ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@Christhebomb88]

This just happened to me and I tried drilling and my drill bits keep breaking at the end and I can’t afford to go to a shop.. idk what to do this job is hell. Idk how I can take them off at this point.. I’m already messing up my rim because I’m just so frustrated but Idc about it And it’s three of them on one wheel 🙂

[@ultimatehandyman]

Nightmare job 😱

[@Christhebomb88]

@@ultimatehandyman update i got the wheel off, i just kept drilling and used wd40 and got the studs weak enough and i drove the car down the street and the wheel popped right off. btw yes i left a loose lug nut when driving it so the wheel stayed in place

[@luketuttiett]

A good method to use that you didn’t mention is to get a 12 point socket slightly smaller diameter than the locking bolt/nut and hit it over the locking bolt/nut. Although this isn’t suited to every locking nut it works in a ‘pinch’ 😂 (I don’t condone stealing)

[@ultimatehandyman]

I'm assuming the garage tried that, before it was brought to me. Thanks for the comment

[@650GSF]

It's a tricky job to do it has happened to a few people I have known over the years.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, it is. Thanks for the comment

[@iritantNL]

What is the air fitting for on the machine?

[@ultimatehandyman]

You can attach a coolant bottle to the machine, so that it drips coolant onto the cutting bit (it only works with the supplied cutters as they have a hole through them). Thanks for the comment

[@amana1480]

If you ever lose a locking wheel nut key, if you goto a main car dealership, they keep all the locking wheel bolt keys in stock and will remove the bolt for you (I did this once because I only found out 6 months after buying a car that there was no locking wheel bolt key)...

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the info ;-)

[@dot7107]

Yep, we have over 200 different types of locking bolt in stock only for vw

[@joandar1]

Good information on the video. I don't steal car or tires, especially VW stuff. Nothing to do with their cheating scandal, hope they pay through the nose for that those greedy people! I have just seen too many crapped out cars from there recently and I think they are over priced! Not just VW,. John, Australia.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@davidjones1235]

Where can I get that cap with the peak at the back?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I got mine from ebay- fave.co/2QR5sor I always turn the peak to the back when using a visor or a welding mask, otherwise it won't fit ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@yusuf.alajnabi]

About time I see you working on a car chez. It a pity that it's someone else's and not your own. Lol

[@ultimatehandyman]

It's years since I worked on my own car, I used to do it a lot when I was younger, but now I have my own business it is not economical for me to do it. I remember one time replacing my girlfriends brake pads in the back street when it was chucking it down with rain- I was like a drowned rat LOL. I don't miss jobs like that ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@roccocroce]

Wow that mag base is the fucking TRUTH

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yes, it is great ;-)

[@Tazza17]

Nice hat !

[@ultimatehandyman]

All welders hats are like that ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@paulwaynerichardson7027]

Does anyone do this in Los Angeles area? My 2017 VW Jetta lock bolts got overtightened and then the the Lock bolt pattern got stripped in the process! Back two need to be drilled out...HELP!

[@ultimatehandyman]

I hope you find someone locally that can do it. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@paulwaynerichardson7027]

@@ultimatehandyman The Bolt Guy...he drills on Wednesday. Thank you.

[@jerminator0688]

Now can you do my car? Lol

[@ultimatehandyman]

😂

[@PUR-zk8kk]

did i miss something or? why he didn't use a breaker bar

[@ultimatehandyman]

The bolt is an anti-theft wheel bolt and it cannot be undone. The garage tried to remove it with no success, so my mate brought it to me. Thanks for the comment

[@rockyfish3115]

Weld an old wheel nut to it, or use a rotary tool grind a slit and whack a flat head into it and turn gotta do it myself tomorrow

[@ultimatehandyman]

A mate of mine tried that ( he was a coded welder ), but it didn't work. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@rockyfish3115]

@@ultimatehandyman just done mine with a titan sds drill loading up to KZbin now with chisel not drill piece

[@DRSHANKER]

Ah so this is the area for people who have had a fucking hard time of it already

[@edd6113]

I know you will say it didn't get hot, but you should never weld or heat around wheels, look on here for vids about it. I knew someone who died from using a torch to cut a wheel stud on a tractor and the wheel exploded, very dangerous. Nice mag drill tho.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comment

[@amana1480]

Copper grease should never be added to wheel bolt threads as this actually makes them more likely to get stuck as the copper blocks the threads (especially if you add more copper grease every time you put the bolts back on) .... the bolt threads should ideally be kept clean and dry (eg by wirebrushing)...Some car manufacturers (eg Audi) make a special "non metallic" grease for wheel bolts... Also copper grease should never be used on the back of brake pads as it encourages the caliper to corrode (textar-professional.com/textar-training-center/the-use-of-copper-grease-on-modern-brakes/)... you get special "non-metallic" high temperature grease for the back of brake pads... Copper grease should also not be used on the mating surface on the back of alloy wheels, as it encourages the alloy wheel to corrode.

[@AbdulBido]

3:48 Tyler Durden hard at work..

[@roccocroce]

also, nice work.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks for the comments

[@tristansevertson4013]

can anyone let me know how you would do this if you have no money for a Mag Drill?

[@ultimatehandyman]

I would not risk it using a hand drill, as it will be difficult to get the drill bit straight.

[@AvocaSingleTrack]

M42 Cobalt bits would drill that right out. People buy bits that say "cobalt" and then wonder why they don't work. If the bit doesn't say M42 Cobalt then dont buy it. There is a guy on ebay named drillhog, you can get them reasonably priced.

[@ultimatehandyman]

Thanks, I have just seen his drill bits- fave.co/2xm7yEQ I think the ones I tried were the cheap ones I bought from Banggood, I should have tried my Dewalt ones! Thanks for the comment

[@adrianplakaj9410]

How can I remove it

[@ultimatehandyman]

You can get some special removers, but they are expensive

[@jclwyd]

Informative as usual but ditch the cap

[@ultimatehandyman]

I always wear a cap when welding ;-)

[@azhd210]

Omg, im fucked this gunna be a pain Edit great vid tho thank you very much

[@ultimatehandyman]

Yeah, it's not an easy job! Best of luck with it Thanks for the comment 👍

[@neilhuband995]

Be very careful about heat when working on wheels... Let the tyre pressure down. Preferably remove the schraeder valve. People have regretted not doing that before. I know it's an alloy, which isn't as bad as a steel wheel for heat transfer, but still, I'd be playing safe..

[@ultimatehandyman]

Considering some wheel brake discs can glow red hot under extreme braking conditions, I would not worry too much about the heat transfer from a bolt. Thanks for the comment

[@neilhuband995]

Ultimate Handyman KZbin search 'tyre exploding welding' and you'll find a great number of videos demonstrating... kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5XYapqfi5dkZqc

[@neilhuband995]

And you're right, it's maybe unlikely with the procedure you did, but if you'd seen a tyre exploding you'd probably wanna play it safe..

[@neilhuband995]

Ultimate Handyman Also, my mate worked as a mechanic for Mercedes for many years. An HGV came in to be worked on, must've had hot brakes. Nothing like glowing hot. Tyre exploded. Made a massive mess of his face, lucky he wasn't permanently blinded in both eyes. I saw the photos, they were horrific. Heat on wheels with fully inflated tyres is no joke mate

[@ultimatehandyman]

I never said it was a joke, but welding a piece of tube to a wheel nut is very unlikely to generate enough heat to cause any problems whatsoever ;-)

[@mkolyan]

Колесные болты запрещено смазывать резьбу. Просто надо нормально динамометрическим ключём затягивать

[@ultimatehandyman]

Спасибо за комментарий

[@Null-Null1]

I remember doing this but had to cut the wheel off 😑

[@ultimatehandyman]

I bet that was fun (Not) Thanks for the comment

[@lazylad9064]

I hope I never have this problem 😀 you could always ask a scouser he'd have them off in no time.👍 (I'm only joking)😁😁

[@ultimatehandyman]

Ha Ha ;-) Thanks for the comment

[@adrianplakaj9410]

I have bmw 328i I got a bolt damage I want to remove it

[@ultimatehandyman]

It depends why it won't come out in the first place.

[@jake-mv5oi]

Are you using a caulk gun for a clamp?! LOL

[@ultimatehandyman]

No, LOL. It's a one handed clamp, they are very useful- fave.co/2PKsqwi

[@alexcatto1432]

You could just take the tyre off and put a new one on. Don't have to bother taking the wheel off. Just joking, idk if that would work or be that easy, lol.

[@ultimatehandyman]

LOL